Exploring the magnificent Shiva temple at Thiruvanikavil

I have just returned after a memorable trip to Tamil Nadu, the ancient kingdom, of the Cholas. The visit lasted a few
weeks, but its memory will last a lifetime. In Tamil Nadu ( and also Andhra Pradesh, where Srikalahasti is located) I
visited many ancient architectural wonders which I would like to share with our esteemed readers. I visited the
magnificient Shiva temple at Thiruvanikavil on the banks of the Kaveri river, near Tiruchinapalli, which is more
majestic than any of the so called "wonders of the world". I am extremely happy that this ancient treasure is hidden
from the cynosure of materialistic tourists and offers a great experience to Indian families who want to spend a
blissful day away from the vagaries of stressful life and spend a day in bliss. This is exactly what I experienced
during my visit to the ancient temple at Thiruvanikavil. A visit to the 500 year old neem tree, near this temple, on
the banks of the Kaveri is a once in a life-time experience. Life is not counted by the moments you breathe but life
is counted by the moments which take your breath away. Seeing the neem tree after an ice-cold dip in the Kaveri
river between 2 a.m. to 4 a.m. is one such moment in my life!
Thiruvanikavil Temple is a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, located at Tiruchinapalli, Tamil Nadu. Which is an
overnight train journey from Chennai. At Ekambareshwar, Lord Shiva is represented as the Water element
in an lingam which floats on the water of the Kaveri which reaches the lingam through an underground
spring which surfaces at this sacred site . A 500 year old neem tree is located outside the temple.
Devotees are expected to wake up between 2 a.m. to 4 a.m., take a dip in the Kaveri and walk to the
temple for the morning prayers which start at 6 a.m. There are five temples dedicated to Lord Shiva and
each represents the Lord as one primordial element, namely Jambukeswara (water) at Thiruvanikaval,
Natarajar (sky) at Chidambaram, Arunachaleswara (fire) at Thiruvannamalai and Kalahasti Nathar (wind) at
Srikalahasti in addition to Ekambareshwar. These temples were constructed 1400 years back and are living
proof of the ancient wisdom of our ancestors. Even on this date, no country on this planet can even dream
of building such a huge stone temple, leave alone moving a huge uncut stone by a centimeter.
TheThiruvanikaval temple has several hundred stone sculptures which are over 10 feet tall. There ae
hundreds of pillars in the inner courtyard which stretch from one end of the temple to the other. Many
hotels, resorts and homes (featured in snobbish architectural magazines) who buy and decorate their
rooms and gardens with sculptures stolen from ancient heritage monuments are also equally to blame for
the desecration of these magnificent temples. I spent four weeks exploring the ancient temples of Tamil
Nadu, Karnataka and Kerala, just to soak in the atmosphere and creatively visualise life in the ancient
kingdoms of the South, during the time the Vijaynagar, Chola and Shaktan Tamburan kingdoms were at its
peak in Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Kerala, respectively.
The magnificent stone temples, dedicated to Lord Shiva, as fire water, earth, wind and sky stretch from Srikalahasti
to Ekambareshwar to Chidambaram to Thiruvanamalai. Most of the sculptures are in devotion to the Hindu Gods,
Vishnu, Rama, Shiva and Lord Ganesh in giant monolith slabs of rock. It is indeed unbelievable that in the 10th
century, these rocks were transported hundreds of kilometres across such rocky terrain. Watching the reflections of
the golden sunlight over the temples of Thiruvanikaval is an unforgettable experience which is etched on one's soul.
I
was
fortunate
to
watch
the
sunrise
and
sunset
several
times
during
my
stay.
Out of the hundreds of sculptures, few which stand out include the giant stone sculpture of Nandi outside the
shrine. The gopuram is equally majestic and can be seen from miles afar looking white as snow against the
background of clear blue skies. The Apsaras (celestial nymphs) and dwarapalakan (guardians of the temple) statues
are fine examples of intricate architecture where the smile on the faces of the apsaras and the emotions on the
faces of the statues are clearly visible. It is a pleasure to study the intricate details and finer nuances of every
sculpture that adorn the temples of Ekambareshwar. Minutes turn into days as one explores the hidden treasures of
Ekambareshwar. It took me three hours to study the intricate designs that adorn the stone chariot and the carvings
of the Ekambareshwar temple alone. There are several giant statues inside the temple which have been sculpted
from giant monolith rocks, transported from hundreds of kilometres away, a thousand years back. Ancient Vedic
Indians had the power to levitate giant rocks by using the power of mantras. Wandering through the giant
sculptures of Thiruvanikaval is proof of ancient Vedic wisdom.
As one explores the temples, we can experience poetry etched in stone. Delicate sculptures of plants, animals,
gods, goddesses, nymphs and serpents decorate the walls of temples in endless rows. The temple has colourful
giant figurines of animals, birds and trees representing cosmic unity. Each level of this temple is profusely adorned
with carved friezes and deities. Sculptures of deities in recessed and projecting niches cover all sides of the temple.
The lower most level has many niches with rudimentary images of Lord Ganesh in the centre. The images of
Sheshashayi Vishnu in the central niches, on the upper levels, are more elaborate.

There is a five hundred year old neem tree outide the temple at a place called Amma Mandapam on the banks of
the Kaveri. It was a delight to soak in the primordial energy of this tree steeped in history. If you really want to
explore ThiruvanIkaval, reserve a full day for exploring the temple, unlike the regular tourists who leave after
clicking a few photographs of the gopuram. Every sculpture here, is a living tribute to the ancient wisdom of Vedic
India. The language of stone indeed defeats the language of man. Also, on the upper levels of the temple, are
impressive images of Laxmi-Narayana, Uma-Mahesh, Brahma-Brahmi, and Kuber and Indra, with their respective
consorts.
How to get there:
The nearest international airport to reach Thiuvanikaval is at Tiruchinapalli. There are several options for Indian
tourists to get to Thiruvanikaval from Tiruchinapalli.
By bus:
The easiest way to get to Thiruvanikaval from Tiruchinapalli is by bus. This 7 km. trip takes 15 minutes.
By train:
There are several local trains available to Tiruchinapalli from Chennai. Thiruvanikavil temple is located 7 km. away
from Tiruchinapalli Railway Station.
Where to stay?
Star Lodge at Thiruvanikaval is an ideal place to stay. It is a value for money proposition by Indian standards, as one
can pay Rs. 200/- for a single bed with common bathrooms. Young Indian couples and families from Bangalore,
Chennai and Hyderabad frequent this lodge. Rooms are tiny and can comfortably accommodate a single person .
The bathrooms and are clean.
Where to eat?
Many restaurants serving pure vegetarian South Indian cuisine dot Kanchipuram. Freshly steamed idlis, served with
coconut chutney, is a local dish which melts in the mouth. The food at the high profile restaurants is only for the
gastronomically adventurous who like greasy food floating in oil. Fresh fruits including mangoes, tender-coconuts,
bananas and jack-fruits are available at the local market.
Precautions:
Thiruvanikaval is a religious place and there are several pilgrim shelters, where one can stay the night for free. Do
not pay touts or middlemen who will accost you at the bus and railway stations. Ask for the way to Hindu
Dharamshala or Gujarati Satram both of which offer comfortable rooms with attached bathroom for free (you can
make a voluntary donation if you so wish) and is located a short walk away from the temple. Avoid the high profile
hotels including the ones run by the tourism department as they are exorbitantly priced during the rainy season
which is the low season for tourism. Do not hire two wheelers or bicycles to move around Ekambareshwar as they
often lose your original identity cards which the hiring shops retain as security. The temple is within walking
distance of most guest houses and pilgrimage homes. Avoid the modern ashrams of so called gurus in India, as
thefts are common at these ashrams, besides being forced to shell out exorbitant donations for overcrowded
dormitories with untidy bathrooms. The world famous Sriramgam Vishnu temple is located 5 km. away from
Thiruvanikavil.

How to get there:

The nearest airport to reach Ekambareshwar is at Chennai which is 70 km. away. The nearest railhead is at
Kanchipuram which is 2 km. away from Ekambareshwar temple. The 70 km. drive between Chennai to
Kanchipuram takes about 90 minutes. Local trains are available from Chennai to Kanchipuram.
Where to stay:
Lots of budget guest houses with bed and breakfast are available at Ekambareshwar. They range from Rs. 600 to
Rs. 1000/- per night and offer clean rooms with hot water showers and are located within walking distance from the
main temples. The best way to explore the temples is to walk along the temples as they appear.
Where to eat:
Lots of small restaurants serving South Indian cuisine are found in Ekambareshwar and all along the highway from
Chennai to Kanchipuram. Hot idlis are served with coconut chutney at most roadside food kiosks. Macrobiotic
vegans can get a variety of fruits and vegetables at the local market.

An apsara inside the Thiruvanikaval temple

Sunset over Thiruvanikaval temple

A giant stone sculpture inside Thiruvanikaval temple

The endless pillars at Thiruvanikavil temple

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Murli Menon, is a travel writer, stress management consultant and author based at Ahmedabad, India. He is the
author of "ZeNLP-Learning through stories" published by The Written Word Publications, "ZeNLP-the power to
succeed" published by Sage publications and ZeNLP-the power to relax by New Dawn Press. He can be reached at
ceo@tips4ceos.com

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Courier payments/published magazine author copies to:
Murli Menon
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Khanpur
Ahmedabad-380001
Phone:079-25600269
________________________________________________________________________High resolution digital photographs attached
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The following article and photographs are copyrighted and all rights are reserved. No part of this article or the
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________________________________________________________________________
Courier payments/published magazine author copies to:
Murli Menon
E/503, Borsali Apt;
Khanpur
Ahmedabad-380001
Phone:079-25600269
________________________________________________________________________

High resolution digital photographs attached with caption.

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