SPINEXPO!

Knit Direction

FALL/WINTER 2016-17

SPINEXPO F/W 2016-17

Reporting on the newest yarn direction from
the SPINEXPO Fall/Winter 2016-17 fair in
Brooklyn, New York, highlighting dimension
and innovation for new development.

SPINACTIVE for SPINEXPO

new section of the Forum at SPINEXPO has been

devoted to techno fibers, hoping to look at design from

an entirely new point of view. Instead of designing a
collection and then sourcing the yarns, SpinActive is now
starting with the yarn and exploring what to do with it.
The fashion is actually evolving from the yarn instead of
the other way around, said Eva de Laat of SpinActive.
This is driving a tighter relationship between all members
of the supply chain, from spinners to kni!ers to buyers.
Increasingly, both the yarns and the machinery are
equally important and there is a new creative direction
coming from combining these two elements. Santorini,
the Italian circular kni!ing machinery expert is investing
heavily in exploring how to expand the capabilities of
their machines. SPINEXPO has collaborated with BaliLab
to create and design techniques that are key to creating
unique, personalized apparel that brings one more
dimension to the comprehensive and innovation forums.

HIGHLIGHTS

ircular kni!ing and seamless constructions are the core activewear developments. What started with a focus

on apparel has now expanded into socks and legwear. Shanghai Tiqiao has developed Snugcare, a new yarn that
has thermal properties and is also antibacterial. The core ingredient is Coral, a special ingredient developed by
Tiqiao that has expanded surface area and allows for greater moisture absorption, helping the wearer feel
warmer.

SHANGHAI GALAXY originally comes from Japan and has an advanced laboratory for quality testing and
development of new products. They are able to develop anti-oxidation films, anti-friction films, ma! and
formaldehyde free films that are demanded by the industry. They are able to slit metallic film into filaments 1/254
in width and are combing them with viscose, nylon and pure silk producing extremely so" metallic yarns.
SHANGHAI HYWELL FIBRE INDUSTRY has created multifunctional and elastic core
spun yarns for flat or circular kni!ing. They use Invistas T-400, Coolmax and Thermolite
fibers, combining them with natural fibers to create yarns that have thermal properties,
as well as be!er shape retention. Hywell is now bringing these developments into yarns
so that they can be used to make shoes.
FORMOSA NYLONS new developments focus on new stretch properties in yarns.
Stretch has become a must-have property in almost all apparel. Formosa Nylon has
worked on developing new yarns with enhanced stretch and recovery. Their NOVAR
oers high elasticity, colors, zero knots and a natural hand feel.

SPIN EXPO

IMENSIONS was the overall direction of the Spin Expo yarn fair for the fall season. As the expos website

states, there is a growing desire for innovation and invention, looking for those individuals who have created
breakthrough design concepts and clever new techniques. Designers need to have the ability to be more creative
and unexpected with color, yarns, textures and forms, creating new dimensions and designs both intellectually
and physically.
There is overall growth in 3-D forms, with surfaces and structures being key elements to consider. Technical
processes from 3-D printing to innovative manufacturing methods and enhanced finishes are allowing the body
form to be more considered, where garments become sculptural and have a dimension of their own.

KEY HIGHLIGHTS:
Mixing metaphors with a modern tapestry of color, where the handmade is enhanced by
technology. Modern hybrid interpretations of embossing and molding structures are
being developed, creating new quilt pa!erns and dimensional pieces that require space
around them to be appreciated.
Yarns are furry, diused through surface hair, plush and velvet, as well as ma!ed and
slightly felted with a subtle use of shine. Nature inspired textures extend into ribbons,
cords and compact looking novelties that are light as air.
Hybrid surfaces shimmer and glow, are lightweight yet warm, protective and deceptively
strong. A feminine touch plays with devor as well as silky finishes, built up over layers of
various dimensions.

HIGHLIGHTS
Deeper dimension with metals is developed from burnished, oxidized and
rusted, taking on a new hybrid persona worked with wools, suedes and other
luxury fabrics creating a tapestry of their own.
Traditional yarns such as tweeds, marls and twists are modernized by taking
on so" and light properties, using unexpected color combinations. Intense
plush chenille and wool are compacted through felting or stretch, new dying
and printed techniques. Lustrous shine creates a multidimensional feel of
tactile layers.
Stretch, chenille, eyelash, mohair, clean merino, silky sheens, bi-colors,
chaine!es, marls, irregular surfaces with technical additions of finishes,
structures and cores create a limitless message.

YARNS: Loop yarns boucl with fuzzy textures

YARNS: Hairy mohair and mohair blends

YARNS: Thick, corded and chain yarns

YARNS: Metal or plastic

YARNS: Tweeds, marls, heathers, mlange, nubs, slubs and multicolored donegal tweeds

YARNS: Thick and thin

MIXED: Yarns and stitches

STITCHES: Dimension

STITCHES: Fine gauge. Mixed stitches

STITCHES: Needle punch. Seamlessly combine a knit to woven

STITCHES: Pointelle and openwork

STITCHES: Jacquards

EMBELLISHMENTS: Embroidered, seed beads, bugle beads and sequins Shiny accents

SHINE: Yarn, foil or metallic coating

SPIN EXPO!
Knit Direction

FALL/WINTER 2016-17