Preliminary Survey on the Impact of Financial Crisis

on Poor & Marginalised Women and Men in India

Chikan Craft Industry

By
SEWA

Table of Contents
1.

Handicraft Industry................................................................................................3
1.1
The Importance of Handicrafts......................................................................3
1.2
Indian Handicraft Industry.............................................................................3
2. Chikan Craft Industry.............................................................................................4
2.1
History of Chikan Craft Industry...................................................................4
2.2
The Chikan Craft Process...............................................................................4
3. Methodology and Design of the Study...................................................................7
3.1
Questionnaires................................................................................................7
3.2
Interview Schedule.........................................................................................7
3.3
Focus Group Discussions...............................................................................7
3.4
Case Studies...................................................................................................7
3.5
Sample Design...............................................................................................8
3.6
Data Analysis.................................................................................................8
4. Survey of Chikan Craft Workers............................................................................9
4.1
Demographic Profile of Workers...................................................................9
4.1.1
Age Group..............................................................................................9
4.1.2
Caste Category.....................................................................................10
4.1.3
Religion................................................................................................10
4.1.4
Type of Family.....................................................................................10
4.1.5
Family Size...........................................................................................10
4.1.6
Housing Status......................................................................................11
4.1.7
Occupation...........................................................................................11
4.1.8
Monthly Income...................................................................................12
4.1.9
Education Status...................................................................................12
4.2
Impact of Financial Crisis on Workers.........................................................12
4.2.1
Impact on Job/ Work............................................................................12
4.2.2
Reason for Impact................................................................................13
4.2.3
Impact on Monthly Income..................................................................13
4.2.4
Impact on Working Hours....................................................................14
4.2.5
Impact on Occupation..........................................................................14
4.2.6
Impact on Social Security Benefit........................................................14
4.2.7
Impact on Children Education.............................................................15
4.2.8
Impact on Daily Food Intake................................................................15
4.2.9
Impact on Housing...............................................................................16
4.2.10
Impact on Health and Medical Treatment............................................16
4.2.11
Impact on Family Relations.................................................................16
5. Survey of Entrepreneurs.......................................................................................17
5.1
Any Change in Business..............................................................................17
5.2
Type of Deterioration in Business................................................................17
5.3
Change in Unit Workers...............................................................................17
5.4
Change in Production...................................................................................18
5.5
Change in Availability of Raw Material.......................................................18
5.6
Support from Agencies/ Organisation..........................................................18
6. Case Studies.........................................................................................................19
6.1
Rukaiyaben Munnabhai Sikdi......................................................................19
6.2
Kammu Idrishi.............................................................................................19
7. Findings of the Study...........................................................................................21
8. Recommendations................................................................................................23

1.

Handicraft Industry

Handicrafts are unique expressions and represent a culture, tradition and heritage of a
country. The Handicraft Industry is one of the important productive sector.
Handicrafts can be defined as products which are produced either completely by hand
or with the help of tools. Mechanical tools may be used as long as the direct manual
contribution of the artisan remains the most substantial component of the finished
product. Handicrafts are made from raw materials and can be produced in unlimited
numbers. Such products can be utilitarian, aesthetic, artistic, creative, culturally
attached, decorative, functional, traditional, religiously and socially symbolic and
significant.
1.1

The Importance of Handicrafts

The Cultural Importance

Handicrafts play very important role in representing the culture and traditions
of any country or region. Handicrafts are a substantial medium to preserve of
rich traditional art, heritage and culture, traditional skills and talents which are
associated with peoples lifestyle and history.

The Economic Importance

Handicrafts are hugely important in terms of economic development. They
provide ample opportunities for employment even with low capital
investments and become a prominent medium for foreign earnings.

1.2

Indian Handicraft Industry

India is one of the major producer and supplier of Handicrafts products in the world.
India has been major producer and supplier of handicrafts products since very long
time. Before the industrial development, this art and industry was a potential
economic advantage for the country. During recent years, the importance of
handicrafts has been surged due to their cultural and financial values. The small scale
industries - including handicrafts are playing major role in the economic development
of the country.

2.

Chikan Craft Industry

Chikan is a fine art of embroidery made with white untwisted yarn with the help of a
needle on a fine cloth. It is done on viol, silk, cambric, georgette, terry cotton etc. At
first, designs are printed on the cloth with washable colours while different stitches or
embroidery work is done on cloth. This is a home based industrial activity which is
mainly performed by women artisans and workers.
2.1

History of Chikan Craft Industry

The historical records of 17th century of East India Company reveal that Dhaka
produced the fine embroidery called Chikan. Chikan craft is said to be brought to
Lucknow in 18th century from East Bengal by the Nawabs of Oudh. It is said that
Nurzahan, wife of the Mughal Emperor Jahangir introduced it in Lucknow. It was
popular among the Nawabs and Rulers of Oudh. The craft was patronage by the
Mughal emperors. However, the emergence of British Raj gave the big jolt to the
chikan craft. The import of super fine low priced mill textile from England caused the
decline of the trade of chikan craft. Thus, the many of the fine stitchers remained
confined to the homes of artisans and those who were fond of the craft.
There are six basic stitched which are used in combination with a series of stitches for
embroidering flowers and leaves. There are many patterns and stitches in the chikan
craft. Chikankari is embroidery in which thread upon fine white cotton cloth, the
design depending for its effect upon variety of stitching and the contrast of different
grades of thread to form lace like patterns opaque filling, and delicate emphasized
details and outlines. Interestingly, chikan embroidery of Lucknow may be traced in
1860, since William Hoey (1880) referred that it flourished there for about twenty
years in Lucknow. He further said that it was then well established as a prosperous
trade within central, northern and western Indian and extended also to Calcutta. He
noted that chikankari was worked by women to augment the family income. Thus,
chikan business has taken deep root in Lucknow and its adjoining areas. The women
and children are employed by the merchant manufacturers chiefly for the repetitive
work of embroidered sarees, dupattas, yardage etc. while individual embroidered
garments such as gent kurtas, payjamas, salwar kameezs, sarees etc. are embroidered
by artisans. The embroidery was executed upon tanjebs, muslin woven locally. The
patterns were stamped from small print blocks for embroidery, using red earth colour
which washed out easily after the embroidery was completed. The work executed by
women as a home craft was prepared by the chikanwalas, who provided the stamped
clothes for embroidery according to market needs. However, the payment for such
work is still meaner but the people are glad to work which add to their subsistence
livelihood and income. Since it is home based craft and artisans are not interested to
work outside home due to socio-cultural value system.

2.2

The Chikan Craft Process

The Chikan Craft industry is highly labour intensive, cottage based and decentralized
industry. The industry is mainly concentrated in Lucknow and its adjoining areas of
Unnao, Barabanki, Rai Barielly and Sitapur. Most of the manufacturing units are
located in rural and small towns, and there is huge market potential in all Indian cities
and abroad. Chikan Craft work is a major source of income for urban and rural
4

communities in Lucknow employing over six million artisans including a large

number of women and people belonging to the weaker sections of the society.
There are a number of processes and agents involved in chikan craft. In the chikan
industry, the trader is the main agent. He decides what fabric has to be used and what
is being demanded in market. The showrooms are to display the designs and products
of craft while most of the manufacturers or traders have to engage in manufacturing,
retailing and trading of crafts products. They have own system of production,
procuring raw materials, tailoring, cutting, embroidery, block making, hand printing,
washing etc. through involving middlemens, cutters, artisans, block makers and
washer men and tailors. The trader makes the bulk purchase of material, the voiles,
rubies, mulmuls and powerloom cloth as these fabrics are cool in seething summers.
Chiffon, crepes, silk, nets and georgette are also used as fashion has demanded the use
of such fabrics. The traders generally keep in mind the market demand, consumer
choice and affordable price. The bulk cloth goes to the cutter for cutting and then it is
send to printers for hand printing. Tailor stitches the different pieces of cloth on piece
basis, while it is given to the chhapekars instructing them what stitches are to be made
and accordingly the blocks are placed. Different stitches have different blocks. It is to
be noted that block making craft is declining and there are only a few artisans who
make it. However, with the introduction of computer added technology, the block
making work may be reduced to greater extent.
In the chikan industry the wooden block makers are very important as they are the
men or tappagars who carve the wood blocks with the intricate designs. The cheepis
or printers transfer these designs on the fabrics to be embroidered. These blocks are
generally made from Sheesham wood for convenience of carving. These blocks are
constantly dipped in the colour dyes so that the fibers of the wood do not get spoiled.
The blocks are dried and the rough sides are smoothened to give it an even finish. One
of the oldest block makers is Anwar Husain of Pilkhira, who belongs to Farrurkhabad.
Since 1857 his family has been carving and printing. He himself started making
blocks in 1945.
It is believed that printing was not in practice in chikan embroidery earlier. The master
embroiders made designs from imagination and with great precession. The printers
job is to transfer the designs on the fabric with the earned wooden blocks. The printer
has numerous blocks of different shapes and sizes are needles in different stitches.
Printing is an art and technique of its own. Generally blue and white dye is used in
printing. The dye is made from gum of babool while small lumps of gums are soaked
in plain water to make thick liquid for the use. Then printer pours this liquid gums in a
flat tin tray. The dye is poured in 3 inch deep tray and the bamboo plate which is like
a mat on the top of the tray. On top of this mat a soft pad is placed which is normally a
woolen blanket material that soaks the liquid and keep sit saturated. Even for printing
a fine thin fabric were kept on this soft woollen blanket. The blue coloured indigo is
sprinkled over the fabric and spread evenly with a brush while white aluminium
powder is sprinkled for white printing on dark fabric. The wooden block is dipped
into the dye tray and then pressed on top of the fabric for the impression. The
impressions are embroidered. Embroidery is normally done by the ladies, but due to

purdah system prevailing, they are not exposed to the outer societies. Embroidery is
done by picking up the weft of the fabric and the thread is not visible on the reverse
side of the cloth. Earlier white untwisted cotton threads were used. Now this is termed
as waste of textile mills. Now, white and coloured threads are being used. Anchor,
staple and cotton dyed colour threads, silk, silver and gold threads are common. Use
of silver, gold and other coated threads is called Jardozi embroidery.
Earlier the artisans stretched the fabric around the index finger and wedged between
the other fingers to hold it in position and with right hand fingers the embroidery was
done. The girls start learning this art at an early age. To make the work easier and
quicker wooden and plastic circular frames are used now. To make jali the needle used
is 5.5 cm. long. For the regular chikan embroidery finer needle is used which is 3.5
cms. Generally embroidery is done on piece rate basis while time schedule is being
fixed. Washing of clothes is to be ensured. Earlier finished chikan clothes as well as
dyed clothes were washed with mud and sand called Rehu with Gomti river water.
Now, since river water is polluted and adequate water is also not available therefore,
washing of clothes is required to be performed at home or in factory through use of
automatic washing machines and tube well water.

3. Methodology and Design of the Study

The study has used both the qualitative and quantitative methods in data collection
and analysis. Also it has taken into account the secondary sources (official
government data, reports of previous studies, literature reviews) as well as empirical
data collected through various research instruments.
The study has relied on the secondary material from the reports on the workers
involved in Chikan craft works by various civil society individuals/bodies,
government departments which include the Government Census, newspaper reports,
etc.
The study has also attempted to capture both qualitative and quantitative data through
multiple instruments and techniques. The instruments used are as follows:
3.1

Questionnaires

Separate detailed structured questionnaires were prepared for workers and employers.
The schedules covered among others, details regarding the socio-economic status of
the workers, wages, earnings and expenditure, living and working conditions, health
problems, debt burden etc. The schedules also try to capture change in working
conditions, earnings due to economic slow down. These questionnaires have not only
generated quantitative data but also provided qualitative data and perceptions of
people.

3.2

Interview Schedule

A number of people have been interviewed to capture their views on the subject
matter under study. These views provided qualitative data for the case studies and also
served to corroborate or cross check the findings of the sample survey.

3.3

Focus Group Discussions

The study has also tried to capture views, perception of specific groups within the
workers to enhance qualitative and quantitative data. The focus groups comprise
workers direct or indirectly involved in Chikan craft work includes women, youth,
unorganized sector labourers, professionals, elders of the locality, etc.

3.4 Case Studies

The case studies were compiled on the basis of indepth interviews and open-ended
questionnaires to obtain qualitative data from the selected workers. Before
documenting case study of selected workers views of family members, representative
of NGOs were also considered.

3.5 Sample Design

Since the chikan craft workers are concentrated mainly in Lucknow, Unnao,
Barabanki, Rai Barielly, Sitapur and its adjoining areas. Considering constraints of the
study only workers from Lucknow were selected for sample survey.
In selection of sample respondents were strategically selected as workers who are
engaged in Chikan Craft work. The Chikan Craft workers are broadly categories into
three types of workers Chikan cloth processor, Chikan design imposer and Chikan
embroiders. Cloth processing and design imposing is mainly done by the male
workers and women are involve in embroidery work. These broad categories are
further divided into various sub categories in Chikan embroidery work there are 8
types of workers depending on skilled level. Different specialists work with different
types of stitches for example, open work or jaali is not done by embroiderers who do
the filling work each worker completes his/ her own work and then fabric is sent to
the next embroiderers. In selected respondents 93 percent are Chikan embroiders, 4
percent are Chikan cloth processors and 3 percent are Chikan design imposer.
We have selected 100 workers and 20 employers (small manufactures) for detailed
primary survey. Samples were selected through stratified purposive sampling method
proper care had been taken to give representation to all types of workers and small
employers. The number of samples selected from each area is given in below table:
Sr. No
1
2
3
4
5

Area
Aliganj
Choak
Daliganj
Jankipuram
Mahendipur

No. of Sample
Workers
17
28
27
16
12

No. of Sample
Employers
2
2
2
2
2

3.6 Data Analysis

Compilation and tabulation of primary data collected through questionnaires were
carried out by Microsoft Excel software. First by transferring the data on to master
sheet from the questionnaires after they were stratified after that coding were done for
quantifiable and open-ended responses. A number of well-defined variables were
identified covering socio-demographic and economic characteristics and smaller and
relevant tables were produced from the master sheet with appropriate classes of
variation ranges. Details pertaining to Chikan Craft, wage rates and open-ended
replies leading to perception aspects were quantified by carefully selecting key words
from the responses themselves; their class-intervals were fixed and tables were then
created.
Cross-classification and simple percentage were used to bring out salient features and
capture any emerging trends. Any important annotations or comment provided by
respondents have separately been analysed following a descriptive methodology.

4. Survey of Chikan Craft Workers

The socio-economic condition of the Chikan workers is directly related to the
prevailing system of production of Chikan craft, their status as home-based workers,
as well as their seclusion from the outside world. Out of an estimated 3, 70, 500
workers, 70 percent live in Lucknow and 30 percent in rural areas in that about 70
percent of total workers are Muslims and the rest Hindus.
A study undertaken in 1973 showed that the general status of workers in the Chikan
Craft industry is very low on account of poverty, deprivation, illiteracy, along with
traditional social disabilities. There is seriously affected by their work and
surroundings and most of them suffer from poor eyesight and spondylitis.
In recent period, as a result of global financial crisis export from Indian Handicraft
Industry has decrease by 70 percent. Decrease in export has direct impact on the
socio-economic condition of workers involve in the industry. What has been the
impact of the financial crisis on poor women and men employed direct and indirectly
in Chikan Craft industry? What needs to be done to address the adverse impact on
these men and women workers belongings to the informal and marginalised segments
of the workforce? What kind of social security options can be made available to poor
women and men to cope with the crisis to sustain human development outcomes?
These questions were the starting points of this enquiry.
4.1
4.1.1

Demographic Profile of Workers

Age Group

In the total sample 84 percent were women respondent and 16 percent were men
respondent. Average age of men and women respondents together has been reported to
be 30 years. In that the average age of women respondents has been reported to be 29
years and of men respondents has been reported to be 35 years. However the
proportion of middle age group women has been found significant.
Age
Group
< 20 years
21 30
31 40
41 50
51 above

Men
No.
3
4
4
2
3
16

%
19
25
25
13
19
100

Women
No.
%
25
30
21
25
27
32
6
7
5
6
84
100

Total
No.
28
25
31
8
8
100

%
28
25
31
8
8
100

4.1.2

Caste Category

Most of the Chikan Craft workers belong to the Other Backward Class (OBC)
community in the survey 54 percent respondents belongs to this category. Nearly 32
percent workers belong to others community, workers belong to schedule caste and
schedule caste community is very minimal only 6 and 3 percent. Nearly all workers
belong to Muslims community are from OBC caste.
Sr. No
1
2
3
4

Caste Category
Schedule Caste
Schedule Tribe
Other Backward Class
Others

% of Workers
6
3
59
32
100

Source: Primary Survey

4.1.3

Religion

Chikan Craft work is dominated by Muslim community. In survey also 82 percent

respondent belongs to Muslims community and 16 percent belongs to Hindu
community respondent from other community is negligible only 2 percent.
Sr. No
1
2
3

Religion
Hindu
Muslims
Others

% of Workers
16
82
2
100

Source: Primary Survey

4.1.4

Type of Family

Nearly 62 percent surveyed workers are living in joint families while 38 percent are
living in nuclear families. The proportion of workers living in nuclear families was
found higher in Muslim communities. In was also come out in the focus group
discussion that more than 50 percent Muslims are living in joint families.
Sr. No
1
2

Caste Category
Joint Family
Nuclear Family

% of Workers
62
38
100

Source: Primary Survey

4.1.5

Family Size

Size of the family has been reported to be large; it was reported as high as 15 in some
families. Most of the respondents reported that they live in large families.

10

Sr. No
1
2
3
4
5

Family Size
2-3
4-5
6-7
8-9
10 - above
Average

%
13
35
37
10
5
6

Source: Primary Survey

4.1.6

Housing Status

The housing conditions of Chikan Craft workers are found to be pathetic. They
generally live and work in congested, unhygienic and kachha houses. The survey data
also reveals that nearly 50 percent workers are living in semi pucca and kachha
houses.
Sr.
No
1
2
3

Status/
Type
Own
Rented
Other

Kachha
No.
16
4
0
20

%
80
20
0
100

Semi Pucca
No.
18
10
2
30

%
60
33
7
100

Pucca
No.
44
6
0
50

%
88
12
0
100

Total
No.
78
20
2
100

%
78
20
2
100

Source: Primary Survey

4.1.7

Main Occupation of Family

The main occupation of family members of surveyed workers has been reported to be
labour, service and petty business. However, Chikan craft is being practiced as a
subsidiary occupation to augment family income. Among the surveyed workers 38
percent families are involve in petty business of making kites. Labour work is main
occupation of 23 percent families and Chikan Craft work is main occupation of 27
percent families.
Sr. No
1
2
3
4
5

Main Occupation
Labour
Business
Service
Chikan Craft Work
Others

% of Workers
23
38
7
27
5

Source: Primary Survey

11

4.1.8

Working Members of the Family

The average numbers of working members have been reported to be 2. In the survey it
came out that in 66 percent families 1-2 members are working and in 31 percent
families 3-4 members are working.
Sr. No
1
2
3
4

Member
1-2
3-4
5-6
7 - above
Average

%
66
31
3
0
2

Source: Primary Survey

4.1.9

Monthly Income of the Family

Average monthly income of surveyed families has been reported to be Rs. 22560.
Nearly 46 percent families are earning less than Rs 1500/ month. Maximum surveyed
families are living below poverty line showing high economic vulnerability.
Sr. No
1
2
3
4

Income Group
< = 1500
1501 3000
3001 4500
> 4500
Average

%
46
28
18
8
22560

Source: Primary Survey

4.1.10 Occupation of Worker

This survey is preliminary focus on understanding impact of financial crisis on the
Chikan Craft workers. In selection of sample respondents were strategically selected
as workers who are engaged in Chikan Craft work. The Chikan Craft workers are
broadly categories into three types of workers Chikan cloth processor, Chikan design
imposer and Chikan embroiders. Cloth processing and design imposing is mainly
done by the male workers and women are involve in embroidery work. These broad
categories are further divided into various sub categories in Chikan embroidery work
there are 8 types of workers depending on skilled level. Different specialists work
with different types of stitches for example, open work or jaali is not done by
embroiderers who do the filling work each worker completes his/ her own work and
then fabric is sent to the next embroiderers. In selected respondents 93 percent are
Chikan embroiders, 4 percent are Chikan cloth processors and 3 percent are Chikan
design imposer.
Sr. No
1

Occupation
Chikan Embroider

% of Workers
93

12

2
3

Chikan Cloth Processor

Chikan Design Imposer

4
3
100

Source: Primary Survey

4.1.11 Monthly Income of Worker

Average monthly income of surveyed workers has been reported to be Rs. 621. Nearly
63 percent workers are earning less than Rs 500/ month. Maximum surveyed workers
are living below poverty line showing high economic vulnerability.
Sr. No
1
2
3
4
5
6

Income Group
No income
Less than 500
501-1000
1001-3000
3001-5000
More than 5001
Total

% of Workers
5
63
21
11
0
0
100

Source: Primary Survey

4.1.12 Education Status

The educational standards of the workers have been reported to be poor. Nearly 41
percent workers are illiterate and 15 percent workers are literate without any formal
education. It has been revealed in the survey that 26 percent workers have studied up
to primary standard and 10 percent have received secondary education. Only 8
percent of total surveyed workers are graduate.
Sr. No
1
2
3
4
5

Education Level
Illiterate
Literate
Primary
Secondary
Graduate

% of Workers
41
15
26
10
8

Source: Primary Survey

4.2

Impact of Financial Crisis on Workers

Since 2007, these Chickan Craft workers are suffering from economic crisis first due
to appreciation of rupee resulted in increase in prices of final product which lower
down demand of Indian product as compare to other countries like China and
Bangladesh. After October 2008, these crisis become severe, now these workers are
getting 20 to 30 percent of total work which they were getting prior to 2007.
4.2.1

Impact on Job/ Work

13

In the survey workers where asked whether they have observed any change in work
between October 2008 to March 2009. Almost all workers responded that they are
going through major crisis in the work. When asked about types of changes 5 percent
workers responded that they are completely jobless, 27 workers responded that centre
in which they were working is completely close down now they are working from
home and 22 percent workers responded that now employment conditions are
changed now they have to work for more hours. Nearly 18 percent workers responded
that now workload is increase but on other side income is decrease for the same type
of work now they are getting less piece rate. Decrease in demand is also major type of
change 28 percent workers responded that now they are not getting regular work.
Sr. No
1
2
3
4
5

Type of Impact
Unemployed
Job Changed in Same Sector
Change in Employment Condition
Workload Increase & Income Decrease
Demand Decrease (Less Work)

% of Workers
5
27
22
18
28

Source: Primary Survey

4.2.2

Reason for Impact

The respondents were further asked regarding reason of impact according to 27

percent workers closer of centre is major reason and 22 percent workers responded
that due to less demand many centres for who they were working are now given work
to far less works. Workers who are working from home responded that less demand is
major reason earlier they were getting work from one middleman but now to get
regular work they have to contact many contractors and middlemen. Due to that they
are forced to follow whatever conditions contractors and middlemen decide.
Sr. No
1
2
3

Reason of Impact
Closer of Centre
Lay off in Centre
Other

% of Workers
27
22
51

Source: Primary Survey

Regarding notice period and on compensation for lay off all workers who have lost
job due to closer of centre and due to lay off in centre responded that employer had
given any notice.
4.2.3

Impact on Monthly Income

Financial crisis has huge impact on monthly income of workers. Before crisis average
monthly income of surveyed workers was Rs 978, which gone down to Rs 621
decrease of almost 33 percent. Before crisis percentage of workers earning less than
500 was 32 percent, which has increase to 64 percent after crisis and percentage of
workers earning between Rs. 501 to 1000 decrease from 48 percent to 21 percent. In
focus group discussion workers revealed that many who where earning more than Rs
5000/ month are now confined to less than 3000. There are two basic reasons for
14

decrease income first they are not getting continuous work and second due to less
work and more available worker employer or whoever is giving work is bargaining
hard to lower down prices.
Income Group
Unemployed
Less than 500
501-1000
1001-3000
3001-5000
More than 5001
Total

Before Crisis
%
Average (Rs)
0
0
32
408
48
763
15
1677
4
4000
1
7000
100
978

After Crisis
%
Average (Rs)
4
0
64
338
21
761
11
2000
0
0
0
0
100
621

Source: Primary Survey

4.2.4

Impact on Working Hours

Apart from income these financial crisis also have impact on working hours of the
worker. Before crisis, nearly 45 percent workers were working for 6 to 8 hours in a
day after crisis percentage of workers in this working hours category are increase to
66 percent according to workers reason behind this change in piece rate now they
maintain same level of income they are trying do more work. Earlier among surveyed
workers only 2 percent where working for more than 10 hours but after crisis 9
percent workers are working for more than 10 hours. In the focus group discussions
many participants responded that it very difficult to increase efficiency overnight in
embroidery work. Now to complete more work they are taking help of other family
members.
Sr No.
1
2
3
4

Hours
0 to 6
6 to 8
8 to 10
More than 10

Before Crisis
(% of Workers)
37
45
16
2

After Crisis
(% of Workers)
9
66
16
9

Source: Primary Survey

4.2.5

Impact on Occupation

Survey doesnt reveal any shift in occupation surveyed workers responded that they
are doing same type of work which they were doing prior to financial crisis. But in
focus group discussions conducted with workers participants reveal that substantial
number of workers who where working in sector have changed their occupation.
Some of these workers are now working in construction industry and some of them
are working in transport sector as casual labours involve in load and unloading of
goods.

15

4.2.6

Impact on Social Security Benefit

The respondent workers were asked regarding social security benefit before and after
crisis, 100 percent responded that they have not got any benefit. In the focus group
discussion participants were having opinion that Government should come forward to
give us some health benefit this will really help us to come out from the crisis.
4.2.7

Impact on Children Education

Financial crisis have very high impact on childrens education. Nearly 60 percent
boys and 46 percent girls of total School going children are drop out from School.
Now nearly 8 percent boys and 15 percent girls are going to cheaper Schools. Other
impacts on childrens education are changing school from private to Government,
reduced expenditure on education and unable to paid fees. In the Focus Group
Discussions questions where asked to participants regarding types of impact on
childrens education according to them significant number of workers have stop
sending their childrens school and prevailing crisis are forcing them to send their
children to work wherever they can earn some money.
Impact
Drop Out
Changed to Cheaper School
Changed from Private to
Government School
Fees Not Paid
Reduced Expenditure on
Education
No Change

Boys
Numbers
32
4
3

%
60
8
6

Girls
Numbers
24
8
4

%
46
15
8

4
2

8
4

4
1

8
2

15

11

21

Source: Primary Survey

4.2.8

Impact on Daily Food Intake

To know impact of income fluctuation on daily food intake of household, respondent

workers where asked is there is any change in food habits of the family. Nearly 35
percent workers responded that now they have either stopped or reduced eating nonvegetarian food. 22 percent workers responded that they have stopped eating out and
15 percent workers responded that either they have stopped or reduced eating
vegetables and milk. Only 16 percent workers responded that there is no change in
food habits of the family members.
Sr. No
1
2
3
4
5

Impact on Food
Stopped / Reduced Eating Meat/Chicken/Eggs
Stopped / Reduced Eating Out
Stopped Eating Breakfast
Stopped / Reduced Eating Vegetables / Milk
Skipped A Meal A Day

% of Workers
35
22
4
15
6

16

No Change

18

Source: Primary Survey

4.2.9

Impact on Housing

Workers living in rented house are facing hard time in paying monthly rent. Nearly 68
percent of total workers who are rented house are regularly unable to pay monthly
rent and 14 percent workers were shifted to another house which is having low
monthly rent. About 9 percent workers have left rented house and are living in
relatives house and 9 percent workers responded that they are not facing any
problem.
Sr. No
1
2
3
4

Impact on Housing (Rented House)

Shifted To A House With Reduced Rent
Left The Rented House And Shifted To Free Facility
Has Not Paid Rent
No Change

% of Workers
14
9
68
9

Source: Primary Survey

4.2.10 Impact on Health and Medical Treatment

Crisis have forced workers to stopped using medical facilities in the survey 35 percent
respondent workers responded due to financial crunch their dependency on home
remedies for medical treatment has increase in recent period. Nearly 38 percent
workers responded that now no more they are going to private hospital or doctor and
27 percent responded that there is no change.
Sr. No
1
2
3

Impact on Medical Treatment

Shifted from Private to Government Facility
Shift towards Home Remedies
No Change

% of Workers
38
35
27

Source: Primary Survey

4.2.11 Impact on Family Relations

Indirect impact of financial crisis is increase in tension in family resulting in increase
in cases of domestic violence. Nearly 76 percent workers responded due to
insufficient monthly income they are unable to meet regular and day to day expenses
which are increasing tension among family members. About 16 percent workers
responded that due to tension male members in family are regularly consuming
Alcohol which is also increasing tension and nearly 8 percent workers responded that
they are suffering from regular domestic violence.

17

Sr. No
1
2
3

Impact on Family Relations

Tension in Family Due to Insufficient Income
Increase in Tension Due to Alcoholism by Male
Domestic Violence

% of Workers
76
16
8

Source: Primary Survey

18

5. Survey of Entrepreneurs
A survey of manufactures, retailers and whole sellers was conducted in Lucknow to
understand impact of financial crisis on their business and on Chikan Craft industry.
Total 31 entrepreneurs were selected for questionnaire survey.
5.1

Any Change in Business

The entrepreneurs were asked any change in business they have observed in last six
months, 90 percent responded that business is deteriorated, 7 percent responded that
there is no change and 3 percent responded that business is improved.
Sr. No
1
2
3

Entrepreneurs
(%)
3
90
7

Type of Change
Improved
Deteriorated
No Change

Source: Primary Survey

5.2

Type of Deterioration in Business

The entrepreneurs were further asked on type of deterioration in business, 74 percent

responded that demand for production has been gone down in last six months due to
fall in export. Nearly 13 percent responded that price of final product is gone down
and 8 percent responded that they are going through loss in business.
Sr. No
1
2
3
4
5

Entrepreneurs
(%)
0
5
74
13
8

Type of Change
Stock Piled Up
Credit Not Available
Less Demand for Production
Decrease in Price of Final Product
Loss in Income

Source: Primary Survey

5.3

Change in Unit Workers

Among surveyed units before crisis 48 percent units were had workers between 21 to
30 which have gone down to 19 percent after crisis due to less demand in production.
Earlier units having less than 10 workers were only 4 percent but after crisis units in
this category has increase to 61 percent which clearly reflect lay off in units.
Number of
Workers in Unit
0 to 10
11 to 20

Before Crisis
Units
%
4
13
5
16

After Crisis
Units
19
2

%
61
6

19

21 to 30
31 to 40
41 to 50
51 to 100
Total

15
5
1
1
31

48
16
3
3
100

6
3
1
0
31

19
10
3
0
100

Source: Primary Survey

5.4

Change in Production

The entrepreneurs were asked regarding magnitude of decrease in production and sale
in last six months. Nearly 80 percent entrepreneurs responded that production has
gone down by 50 to 75 percent in last six months. About 18 percent responded that it
has gone down by 75 to 100 percent. Reason for decrease in production is only less
demand in local and international market.

Sr. No
1
2
3
4

Decrease in Production
< 25 %
25 50 %
50 75 %
75 100 %

Entrepreneurs
(%)
0
2
80
18

Source: Primary Survey

5.5

Change in Availability of Raw Material

The entrepreneurs were asked regarding availability of raw material. Nearly 95

percent responded that raw material is easy available and 5 percent responded they are
not getting good quality of raw material.
Sr. No
1
2

Availability of Raw Material

Easily Available
Difficult to Available

Entrepreneurs
(%)
95
5

Source: Primary Survey

5.6

Support from Agencies/ Organisation

In the survey respondent entrepreneurs where asked whether they have received any
support from Government or from any other organisation regarding finance,
technology transfer, marketing, business development, technical training and tax
incentives. Absolute number of respondents responded that they have received any
type of help from any organisation. Respondents have opinion that crisis is so severe
that if it continues in next couple of years Chikan Craft work will disappear from the
India.

20

6. Case Studies
Tow case studies of women workers were compiled on the basis of in depth
interviews and open-ended questionnaires by obtaining qualitative data from the
selected workers. Before documenting case study of selected workers views of family
members, representative of NGOs were also considered.
6.1

Rukaiyaben Munnabhai Sikdi

Rukaiyaben Munnabhai Sikdi; 20 years; born 4th in her family of 13 including her
father and mother. Her elder brother is married and is having 2 children; a girl and a
boy. They have been living together in the present house by birth.
Rukaiyaben has studied up to 9th in a municipal school. She learns Chikan Craft work
since when she was 7 from her friends along with her studies. Her father was a tailor
but could not work now due to low eyesight as a result of prolonged diabetes.
Her brother who works in a cycle shop earns Rs 4000/ month. The other two brothers
works as casual workers one in a book binding shop and another one is doing Jardozi
work. Whenever they get work earn Rs 50/ day their income is uncertain. The
ongoing economic crisis had a direct impact on their earning and it pushed them in
debt trap as they have no other alternative to meet the necessary expenses. They spend
Rs. 1500/ month on medicine. Rukaiyaben is a member of SEWA bank and earlier she
was earning Rs 2000/ month and used to save Rs 200/ month but now due to closer of
centre she is not able to get regular work now on an average earning Rs 800 to 1000
per month.
She is finding difficulty in getting the work, earlier she was working in centre and was
paid monthly. She is getting work in some other place which is far away from house
but parents are not allowing her to join that place. She is forced to work from her
house, as compare to earlier situation now she is able to finish very less work and
with very low piece rate.
6.2

Kammu Idrishi

Kammu Idrishi is a traditional Chikan Craft worker. Her late husband was a craftsman
who also did Chikan Craft. She takes up fine work and on order only. All general
work she handed out to women who come to her house and collect work. She buys
her own material, does the cutting along with her daughter and does the tailoring at
times. Earlier, she also used to do the printing, a job generally done by men.
According to Kammu Idrishi, a tremendous amount of effort is involved in Chikan
Craft work but the remunerations are comparatively very less, she feels that tailoring,
packet making or even petty business pays more than Chikan Craft work. Kammu has
two daughters who also do fine Chikan Craft work. One of the daughters is married
and does Chikan Craft work whenever she is visiting her mother while the younger
daughter goes to college. In her free time, the younger daughter also does fine work
21

but she was certain however, that she would rather teach or take up some office job
than do full time Chikan Craft work.
Despite being seasoned Chikan Craft worker, she has a kachha house with leaking
roof, a handicapped son with hardly any medical attention. Kammu reiterated that the
labour required for Chikan Craft work is not commensurate with the wages earned.
Fine karigari fetches a maximum of Rs. 50/ day while the ordinary work earns Rs. 8
to 20 / day.
According to Kammu present recession has further deteriorated her economic
condition. To maintain monthly earning she is forced to work for more hours. She
observes that is physically impossible to work for more than 5-6 hours a day
especially at fine and intricate embroidery. She can, normally, work for 2-3 hours in a
day. Her health is severely affected, her eye-sight is bad, she gets constant head-aches,
back-aches and neck-aches. Her fingers are sore and even have holes in them.
Lack of opportunity, corruption in the government support system, non-payment of
dues, plagiarism of design and even products, are the main reasons for their poor
condition Kammu complained. Even in this crisis condition government is not doing
anything to support Chikan Craft workers.

7. Findings of the Study

1.

The Chikan Craft Industry is one of the informal sector in India that suffers
from a low productivity syndrome, compared to the formal sector. Preliminary
survey carried out to understand impact of financial crisis on workers revealed
that since 2007, workers working in this industry were suffering from lower
22

real wages and poor working/living conditions. Further, due to financial crisis
which began in October 2008 had made economic condition of these workers
more severe. They have been working on low wages but due to financial crisis
the amount of work they get is reduced by nearly 70 percent resulting in
worsening their situation.
2.

It came out in the survey that almost all workers in the Industry are going
through major crisis. Nearly 5 percent workers are completely jobless, 27
workers who were earlier working job centres are working from home due to
closer of job centres and 22 percent workers are now working for more hours.
Nearly 22 percent workers are undertaking more work to compensate decrease
in piece rate.

3.

Financial crisis has severe impact on monthly income of workers. It came out
in the survey that before crisis average monthly income of workers was Rs
978, which decrease by 33 percent to Rs 621 after crisis. Before crisis 48
percent workers were earning Rs. 501 to 1000 after crisis it gone down to 21
percent. On other hand percentage of workers earning less than 500 increases
from 32 percent to 64 percent. In the survey it came out that there are two
basic reasons for decrease income first they are not getting continuous work
and second due to less work and more worker employers are bargaining hard
to lower down price rate of work.

4.

Survey doesnt reveal any shift in occupation surveyed workers responded that
they are doing same type of work which they were doing prior to financial
crisis. But in focus group discussions conducted with workers participants
reveal that substantial number of workers who where working in sector have
changed their occupation. Some of these workers are now working in
construction industry and some of them are working in transport sector as
casual labours involve in load and unloading of goods.

5.

Among surveyed workers no one had received any kind of help or support
from any agency. This sector is predominance by casual and contractual
employment and in the absence of social security measures had further
increase the economic vulnerability of workers after financial crisis.

6.

Financial crisis have very high impact on childrens education. It was came
out in the survey that due to economic crisis nearly 60 percent boys and 46
percent girls out of total school going children are drop out from school. It was
come out in the focus group discussions that prevailing crisis are forcing
parents to send their children to work wherever they can earn some money.

7.

Financial crisis also have impact on food habits of workers, 84 percent of

surveyed workers were observe to made changes in food habits like reduction
in consumption, stopping of eating out side and to severe extent skipping meal
of one time.

8.

Workers living in rented house are facing hard time in paying monthly rent. It
was come out in survey that nearly 14 percent workers have shifted to another

23

house which is having low monthly rent. About 9 percent workers have left
rented house and are living in relatives house.
9.

Crisis have forced workers to stopped using medical facilities in the survey it
was come out that 35 percent of total surveyed workers dependency on home
remedies has increase in recent period due to financial crisis.

10.

Indirect impact of financial crisis is increase in tension in family resulting in

increase in cases of domestic violence. Nearly 76 percent workers in the
survey revealed that due to insufficient monthly income they are unable to
meet regular and day to day expenses which are increasing tension among
family members. About 16 percent workers told that due to tension, male
members in family are regularly consuming alcohol and 8 percent of total
surveyed workers reported that they are suffering from regular domestic
violence.

24

8. Recommendations
Empowerment of workers engaged in unorganised sector is a major challenge for
policy planners and development administrators. The Chikan industry being a
household traditional industry has grown over the period however, economic
condition of Chikan Craft workers warrants urgent action. The traditional designs,
styles, embroidery are being practiced while traditional products such as gent KurtaPayjama, ladies salwar suits, sarees etc. are being produced, though with the change
of consumer behaviours and fashion, there is need of diversification of products and
improving the craft.
The Chikan Craft sector alone provides employment to more than 37 million people
in India. The Crafts have been integral part of cultural life, though traditional craft
skills need sensitive adaptation, proper quality, suitable pricing and improved designs
to meet customer demand and their satisfaction. However, many workers face the
problems of finance, technology and skill up gradation, production and marketing of
goods. The Chikan Craft industry has enjoyed the patronaged of Nawabs and rulers of
Oudh. With the change of time the policies for its promotion and development were
evolved by government. However, the socio-economic status of Chikan workers has
remained pathetic. Even, they are exploited by the private sector since there are no
organised efforts to develop and promote Chikan Industry at present. In last six
months economic condition of workers is deteriorated further due to global financial
crisis resulted in lower demand of Chikan Craft work. Following steps are required
from Government to improve condition of workers.
1.

As the production is carried out in a decentralised manner, financing of

individual workers for carrying out the gamut of operations is not feasible
under the present conditions. However, organised manufactures, may open the
centres of production where imparting of training, craft development, skill upgradation and technology transfer to Chikan workers may be ensured. To
reduce dependency on export market these organised manufactures may open
and established marketing centres at different corners and parts of India
through networking with other manufactures.

2.

Setting up a number of training cum production centres in areas where Chikan

work is concentrated may boost the Chikan Craft business as well as
empowering Chikan Craft workers. It will also check exploitation of workers
by intermediaries like middle man and contractors.

3.

Fixation of minimum wages to improve the conditions of Chikan Craft

workers should be imposed by the Government to ensure the promotion and
development of Chikan Craft as well as economic empowerment of workers.

4.

Efforts should be made to substitute the existing mode of work organisation

characterised by multiplicity of intermediary interest by an alternative mode

25

which could render them superfluous. The efforts should be directed primarily
to under weight the pivotal role of the contractors and middleman.
5.

Efforts should be made by Government to launch socio-economic

empowerment programmes for household population of Chikan Craft
workers. This may be ensured through conversance of Government
programmes and schemes for development and empowerment. There should
be networking and coordination for launching of such programmes.

6.

There is urgent need to create and promote structures that organise the
weavers to collectively engage with the market; provide them with quality
raw materials and other facilities; and consequently, enhancing their
bargaining power in the production process. Identifying existing structures
that can be promoted and initiating new collectives of Chikan Craft workers
should be given the greatest priority. Such collectives would also enhance the
ability of workers to access market information. Diversification into other
products is taking place mostly into the craft products. Diversification by the
Chikan Craft workers is very limited and is mostly by compulsion and not by
choice or any sustained market strategy. There is a need to create structures
that enable workers to access market trends and respond to them accordingly.
The value addition in form of fine embroidery work seems to be providing
opportunity for diversifying and generating employment.

7.

To strengthen the workers groups and improve the lot of unorganised sector
workers, especially women, concentrated efforts are needed from multistakeholders, including civil society organisations, government, trade unions,
media, corporate sector and others.

8.

One dedicated hospital be set up in Lucknow and or in adjoining area to cure

the ailments afflicting the weavers. Occupational diseases such as numbness
in the limbs, deterioration of eyesight etc.

9.

Crches and educational / nutritional facilities for children of working mothers

need to be established, to ensure participation of women and proper care of
their children during their absence from home. Mobile Crches, who have
experience of working with the children of the unorganised sector could be
contacted for trainings / running of the centres.

10.

To further understanding the needs of women workers and creation of special

enabling mechanisms to help facilitate their role in the industry is needed.
Special fund for women workers could help them becoming economically
independent.

26