Garment Spreading and

its Equipments
Sewn Products Machinery and Equipments

Submitted by Charu Bhatia (MUM13AP30)

Harsh Kumar Tomar (MUM13AP34)
Ishita Patnaik (MUM13AP32)
Ivanaa Khandelwala (MUM13AP)
Manish Singh (MUM13AP22)
B.F.Tech - IV Sem.

Spreading an Overview
An insight into the principles, working and mechanism of the process of
spreading, and the machines pertaining to it.

Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading

table of garments, cutting table, or specially designed surface in preparation
for the cutting process.

A spread or lay-up is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single session
of cutting. A single lot of spreading may consist of a single or multiple plies.
The height of a lay-up or spreading is limited by fabric characteristics size of
the order to be cut, cutting method, and the vertical capacity of the
spreader. The number of plies in a spread may range from 1 to 300.

Objectives of the Spreading Process

To place a number of plies of fabric under the marker according to the
planning process, in the colour required, correctly aligned with respect to the
requisite length and width (at the correct tension).

Basic Spreading Equipment for Garment Cutting

The following are the paraphernalia involved in the process of spreading:

Spreading surfaces
Spreading machines
Fabric control devices during spreading, and
Fabric cutting devices

Several firms operate productively with manually operated equipment, while

large-scale firms find automated, high-tech equipment to be cost-effective
for their operations.

Types of Fabric Spread

The spread can be of two basic types:

Flat spread- All the plies are of the same length.

Stepped spread- this as the name suggests, is built up in steps, with

all the plies in one step having the same length. A stepped spread is
generally used when the quantities to be cut precludes the use of a flat
spread. The cut order plan details the colors and ply lengths for a
stepped spread, if it is needed.

Modes Of Spreading

Open Fabric, Face One Way, Nap One Way (F/O/W, N/O/W)

Spreading Mode; Open Fabric, Face One Way, Nap UP and Down (F/O/W,
N/U/D)
Spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is cut at the far end, rotated
180 degrees, then spread to the beginning. The Fabric is cut and rotated 180
degrees then the process is repeated.

Spreading Mode; Open Fabric, Face to Face, Nap One Way (F/F, N/O/W)
Spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is cut at the far end, the roll
is brought to the beginning of the table, rotated 180 degrees, then spread to
the far end again. The Fabric is cut at the far end, brought back to the
beginning of the table, rotated 180 degrees then the process is repeated.

Spreading Mode; Open Fabric, Face to Face, Nap Up and Down (F/F, N/U/D)
Spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is folded over at the far end,
then spreading continues back to the beginning of the table. The Fabric is
folded over then the process is repeated.

Spreading Mode; Folded Fabric, Face to Face, Nap One Way (F/F, N/O/W)
Folded fabric spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is cut at the far
end, then returned to the beginning. Then the process is repeated. On the
control side of the table the Fold is superimposed one layer on the previous
layer.This process is also used on tubular rolled fabric.

Spreading Mode; Folded Fabric, Face to Face, Nap Up and Down (F/F, N/U/D)
Spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is spread to the far end of the
table. The fabric is folded over, then spread back to the beginning. The fabric
is folded over, then the process is repeated. On the control side of the table

the Fold is superimposed one layer on the previous layer. This process is also
used on tubular rolled fabric.

Spreading Parameters
The following need to be kept in mind when laying a spread for cutting:

Alignment of plies in both length and width direction- length and width
of fabric must be at least equal to marker length and width.

Elimination of fabric defects/flaws- any faults identified on the

incoming fabrics will be tagged and will be avoided.

Correct ply direction (especially for asymmetrically printed fabrics)- all

faces up, all faces down, face to face etc.

Correct ply tension- ply tension must be uniform and as much less as
possible.

Avoidance of distortion in the spread during cutting- polythene sheets

are used under the bottom ply to resist friction of the bottom ply with
the base plate of the knife.

Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease- these cause
defect in garments due to variation in dimension.

Checks and stripes should be matched.

Spreading Surfaces

The appropriate type of spreading surface is determined by the fabric type,

spreading equipment, cutting method, cutting equipment, and the firm's
quality standards. Spreading requires a flat, smooth surface.
If the spreading surface doubles as a cutting surface, it also must be level.
Spreading and cutting may be done on the same surface, but automated
cutting often requires spreading and cutting to be done in adjacent but
separate locations.
Spreading and cutting surfaces are available in standard widths that
correspond to fabric width. Narrow fabric can be spread on a wider table. A
spreading surface needs to be about 10 inches wider than the fabric.

Spreading tables may have tracks or rails placed along one or both sides of a
tabletop or just a few inches off the floor. This track helps guide and control
the spreader as it moves up and down the length of the table. With some
types of equipment, the table tracks are geared to synchronize the
movement of the spreading machine with fabric unrolling, in order to
regulate the tension.
Spreading tables may also be very specialized for certain types of fabric and
cutting equipment.

Pin tables have rows of pins located below the surface that can be
extended through slats to hold fabric in a precise location for accurate
matching of pattern repeats.

Vacuum tables are used to compress lay-up and prevent shifting or

movement during cutting. A spread is covered with a plastic film that
forms a seal over the lay-up when vacuum is created. A lay-up of
quilted fabric can be compressed as much as 75 percent when the
vacuum is created. This allows more plies in the lay-up and restricts
the movement of slippery fabrics for more accurate cutting. Cutting
equipment may be moved to a lay-up as another lay-up is prepared
further down the table, or fabric can be spread on one surface and
then transferred to the cutting surface.

Air flotation tables, when activated, allow easy movement of a lay-up

onto an adjacent cutting area. A layer of air between the table surface
and the bottom layer of paper reduces friction and allows a lay-up to
be moved easily without putting stress on the fabric or the operators.

Spreading tables with conveyorized surfaces carry the fabric to the

cutting machine so that no time is wasted. Ideally, one lay-up can be
cut while is being spread. Conveyors may be used with computerized
cutting systems, large die presses, and laser cutters.

 It can support upto 50 - 1000 kg .

Ideal Lay Height Of Spreading & Cutting Table
Fabric Weight

Woven

Knits

Heavy Weight

4-5

5-4

Medium weight

3-4

3-3.5

Light Weight

2.5-3

2-2.25

Spreading Table Width

MAX WIDTH OF MATERIAL
90
100
120
140
160
180
200
210
220

MAX WIDTH OF TABLE

110
120
140
160
180
200
220
230
240

Spreading-related Equipment

Tables
o
o
o
o

Normal Table
Vacuum Table
Conveyor Table
Pinned Table

Fabric Loaders

Fabric Weights (clamps and pins)

Travelling Spreader
A travelling spreader carries the bolt of fabric over the spread during
the spreading process. All travelling system have a basic linkage
system which possesses the following links :
Frame or Housing
Journey or Table wheels
Fabric Support
Guide Collars

Garment Spreading Machine Classification

The fundamental purpose of spreading machines is to superimpose layers of

fabric in a smooth, tension-free manner for accurate and efficient cutting.

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Manually operated spreading machines can be as simple a roll bar mounted

on four wheels that is pushed up and down a spreading table by an operator.
Manual spreaders travel only as fast as an operator moves them, while some
of the faster automated machines can spread 100-150 yards per minute.
Spreading speed can only be utilized on long spreads with few defects.
Spreading speed may affect productivity, quality, and cost of the operation,
but it should not be the primary focus for purchase of new equipment.
Manual spreading machines may be used by small firms as the primary
spreading device and by large firms for short spreads. As spreading
machines become more sophisticated, they are motor driven and have fabric
control devices included increasing productivity, decreasing variability, and
making spreading more cost-efficient.

Fabric Control Devices

Fabric control devices are mechanisms that control fabric as it is carried up
and down the table and unrolled by the spreading machine. These devices
include:

Tensioning involves synchronizing the rate of spreading with the rate

at which the fabric is unrolled. A positive feed system utilizes a covered
roller that is driven and timed to the movement of the machine. It

prevents the momentum of a large roll from continuing to unwind when

the machine slows down or stops. Roller covers of different materials
may be used to give better gripping power for different types and
weights of fabric.

Positioning devices and sensors monitor position and control fabric

placement during spreading. These devices improve the quality of a
spread. Electronic edge sensors monitor selvages as fabric is spread. A
deviation from the proposed alignment triggers a motor that shifts the
roll to the correct position. Alignment can be held to one-eighth inch
tolerance with these devices.

Width indicators may sound an alarm to alert the operator whenever

fabric becomes narrower than the established width. Width variations
are analyzed to determine where in the marker they fall, whether the
fabric will still fit the marker, or whether the variation should be
treated as a defect and removed.

End treatment devices are used with spreaders but are separate and
placed at the end of the spread. The specific end treatment equipment
needed depends on whether the spreading mode is face-to-face or
face-one-way. A face-to-face spread utilizes an end catcher and folding
blade that work together. These are mechanical parts, mounted at
opposite ends of the marker to catch and hold the fabric as the blade
shapes and creases the fold. An overfeed device may be built into the
spreading unit, which automatically feeds extra material when a fold is
to be made. End treatments have a major impact on fabric waste.
There must be enough fabric at the end of a lay to retain it in place,
but any fabric beyond the end of the marker is wasted. For F/O/W
spreads, a knife box is needed along with an end catcher. A knife box
contains a cutting unit (usually a small rotary knife) that operates in a
track and cuts across the fabric width when engaged. With face-oneway spreads, each ply must be cut from the roll at the end of the
marker. The catcher simply holds the fabric end in place for cutting. As
multiple plies are spread, the fold blade and/or knife box must be
elevated to the height of the top ply in order to fold or cut the fabric.

Spreading itself can be a completely manual operation or can be performed

by powered machines of various levels of technology. Some of the main
features are:

Loading
On modern machines, this is a mechanical process whereby rolls of the
cloth stored in a paternoster (magazine) at the end of the table can be

transferred to the machine according to a predetermined sequence or

as selected by the operation.

Alignment
A photocell is used to sense when the alignment of the edge of a ply
starting to vary and a control motor automatically moves the roll of the
clothing to the correct position.

Ply Width
Two photocells, one at each side of the machine, are indexed to the
narrowest width of the cloth which can be cut in the spread. If there is
any deviation from the indexed width, the machine is automatically
stopped and an audible signal sounded.

Propulsion System
Automatic spreading machines consist of a propulsion system driven
by electric motors. The propulsion drive may be either a rack gear
system or a trolley track and wheel system. The electric power is
usually furnished by a trolley contact to a feed-rail track suspended
over the table.

Cloth roll drive

This is a cradle for holding the cloth and a group of powered conveyor
belts which unroll the cloth via circumferential feed. This method is
generally used for problem fabrics that require very precise control
during spreading.

Multiple Bolt Deck/ Bar Attachments

It permits one to do sandwich spreading, or tandem spreading.
Sandwich spreading refers to spreading the lining, interlining, and
outer shell fabric of a garment in one process. Tandem spreading refers
to spreading two fabrics, such as lining and interlining in one step.

Ply Cutting Device

Ply Cutting devices are mounted on some automatic spreading
machines which consists of a rotary knife blade mounted on a trolley or
movable belt. This blade cuts the fabric as the blades housing is
propelled across the fabric width.

Pattern matching
An optical head is used to scan the pattern of the fabric and the
sensory information is fed into the control unit which synchronizes and

co-ordinates the lateral and linear movement of the cloth during

spreading.

Programming
It is possible to programme spreading machines to perform
automatically all of the major elements in the spreading process. The
programme, which is prepared on the cad system, includes cloth roll
selection, loading, threading, spreading to given ply heights and
lengths, etc.

Turntable System
A turntable system in a spreading machine is a linkage sequence which
permits the fabric bolt to be rotated laterally above the spread. When
the turntable is rotated laterally 180 degrees at the end of the ply, the
bolt is ready for a return trip with the fabric facing the same way as in
the previous trip down to the end. Manual, semi-automatic and
automatic spreading machines can be equipped with turntable devices.

Defect Scanner
This consists of a display monitor mounted on the side of the machine,
linked to the computerized marker planning system. When a cloth
defect is discovered during spreading, its size and position are digitized
by a projector type cursor at the front of the spreading machine. The
operator calls up by the marker and the position of the defects on the
marker is shown on the screen. The spreader then decides on the most
appropriate course of action, without the marker having to be laid on
the spread.

Operator comfort
Most motorized machines are equipped with a platform on which the
operator can stand or sit while the machine is traversing the table. A
spreading machine is an important tool in the cutting room because it
affects the efficient use of the both manpower and materials.

Manual Spreading Machine

Operating Procedure
Fabric is carefully pulled out with the help of hands. Then, the fabric is spread
and cut to appropriate requirements. The process is continued to form
requisite number of layers.
Advantages
Easy to operate
Low investment
Suitable for small scale garment industries

Limitations
Speed depends on the operator
Skilled labor required to operate
Chances of improper selvedge alignment
Small roll size

Semi-Automatic Spreading Machines:

Operating Procedure
Same as Manual Spreader
Movement along the table and fabric pulling can be controlled by buttons
Advantages
Fast and economical
Proper selvedge alignment
Ease to operate with electronic clutch
Limitations
Fabric roll loading, cutting is still manual
Not suitable for large scale manufacturing houses
Small roll size

Fully Automatic Spreading Machines

Features
Automatic loading/unloading device for fabric rolls
Automatic roll turning arrangement for face to back lay
Automatic leveling device for fabric edge alignment.
Automatic cutting device at the end of a run
Automatic tensioning device to control fabric tension
Automatic lay height sensing elevator
Programmable lay length, ply height and step-laying
Spreading speeds up to 140 m/min
Advantages
Rapid Process
Increases Production rate
Easy to operate
Large roll size can be spread
Proper Selvedge Alignment
Limitations
Costly, hence its usage only in large-scale firms.
Setup for Spreading
o Spreading machine setup involves moving the spreader to loading
postion
o Loading the fabric roll or rolls
o Registering fabric data (length, width, vendor)
o Threading the fabric through tensioning devices
o Cutting the beginning edge so it is straight
o Moving the machine to the spreading position

o Positioning the fabric

o Loading large fabric rolls onto the spreader often requires two people
or some type of mechanical assistance.

Rolled piece goods are mounted on spreading machines and unrolled

as the spreader travels up and down the table and aligns plies.
The spreading operator monitors the fabric for flaws and irregularities
during the spreading operation.
Manually operated equipment requires that the operator monitors
many aspects of the operation such as alignment, counting plies, and
moving the spreader.
Plies are counted, and, in some spreads, layers of coloured tissue
paper are spread after a specific number of plies. This helps to identify
quantities of garment pieces and/or separate shades of piece goods.
Reloading the spreader requires most of the steps of the initial start-up
procedure. The empty roll has to be removed or unused fabric returned
to inventory. Reloading and delay time may use up to 70 % of the time
required for the entire spreading operation.
Some machines can carry multiple rolls, which eliminates the return
trip to the loading area each time a roll runs out.
The final step in the spreading process is placing the marker on the lay,
unless it is to be cut with a computer-driven knife.

Industry Visit's Specification of Machinery

1. Al-Rakyan- Exporter, supplier and manufacturer of denim jeans
Semi-automatic spreading machine Eastman

Maximum spreading height with

cutting unit
Zig zag spreading height

250 mm

Maximum spreading height with

tubular unit
Maximum roll diameter

220 mm

Maximum roll weight

120 kg

Width available

1600-3400 mm

Spreading width

1800-3600 mm

Power

1 kW/220V/AC,50 Hz

200 mm

500 mm

2. Defiance Knitting Industry It is a leading exporter, manufacturer,

service provider and supplier of textile fabrics. It has an established unit for
dyeing, bleaching, printing and manufacturing of textiles, garments and
intimate wear.
Fully-Automatic spreading machine Richpeace

Maximum spreading height

27 cm

Maximum roll diameter

50 80 cm

Maximum roll weight

300 kg

Roll Width upto

230cm

Spreading width

Upto 2-20 m

Voltage

230-400 v 3ph

Maximum Speed

100 mt/min

3. Sonari Industry It is a leading exporter, manufacturer, service provider

Of Lingerie .
Manual spreading machine is used.

Refrences :

 http://www.tukatech.com/product/automatic-fabricspreader/TUKAspreader
http://www.cosmotex.net/spreading-machines
http://www.inventex.eu/pl/node/216
http://www.richpeace.com/index.php/en/productmachines/cam-equipment/auto-spreading-machine
http://www.fkgroup.com/inglese/italian_fabric_spreading_
machine.html
http://windacadcam.en.made-inchina.com/product/koTnYLfbViWr/China-Fully-AutomaticSpreading-Machine-WD-S100-.html
http://en.yingroup.com/products/Automatic-SpreadingMachine.html