Japanese Architecture - Influences

I.

Geographical. (insert map of japan)

Japan, with its principal island, Nippon, and the long string of
attendant isles to north and south, lies off the east coast of China,
with the Pacific Ocean to the east and the Sea of Japan on the west.
Japan presents many points of geographical resemblance to Great
Britain :
(i) both have deeply indented coast-lines with good harbours ;
(ii) both are island empires well situated for commerce, as they
both lie opposite populous continents ;
(iii)both are at the head of great ocean water-ways, the one of the
Pacific, the other of the Atlantic, and
(iv)
both are warmed by ocean currents producing equable
temperatures.

II.

Geological.
The prevalence of earthquakes has favoured timber construction,
and the Japanese exhibit scientific ingenuity in the framing together
of the various parts.
Forests occupy four times the area of the tilled land, with a greater
diversity of trees than any other country in the world, and bamboo
is largely used in house construction.
Stone in Japan is unstratified, hence it is frequently used in
polygonal blocks, particularly for the lower part of walls on which is
erected the upper timber construction.
There are granites, porphyries, and volcanic rocks, but practically
no limestones or sandstones.

III.

Climatic.
The island climate is made equable by ocean currents and by the
prevalence of sea breezes.
Houses, where possible, face the south, and deeply projecting
eaves form a protection against the summer sun, and high
courtyard walls against the winter wind.
In summer the movable casement windows and partitions, which
form the house fronts and offer little resistance to the penetration
of heat, are removed, and so leave the houses entirely open to the
breezes.

IV.

Religion.
Shinto was the indigenous religion which, without any definite moral
code, consisted of ancestor and nature worship and did not involve
a desire for graven images or elaborate temples. It was, like the
Taoism of China, finally absorbed by Buddhism, which had been
brought from China about A.D. 550.
The Buddhist religion introduced the building of temples, while its
mysterious and awe-inspiring symbolism so acted on the artistic
Japanese temperament as to result in the production of numberless
images of every possible size, and of various fantastic forms of
demons and monsters, woven into conventional representations of
landscapes under the changing seasons.
In early times the priests contributed to the general development
of the country, even in the matter of road-making and bridgebuilding, as in Mediaeval Europe.

V.

Social.
Japan is credited with civilisation, culture, and commerce even
before the historic period, which commences about A.D. 400, when
Chinese civilisation, arts, and social customs came into Japan
through Corea, with a consequent increase in the building of canals,
roads, bridges, and houses.
Buddhism, too, brought in its train further Chinese ideas, and
domestic architecture in Japan advanced along the lines of temple
structure. Social conditions were long unstable ; intrigue against the
Imperial house raged incessantly, superstition was rampant,
divination was practised, and abuses flourished.
In the seventh century reforms began under Kotoku ; governors
registered land and labour, administration of justice was improved,
bribery forbidden, great estates were limited, and taxes took the
place of forced labour, while Imperial tomb-building, which had, as
in Egypt, laid heavy burdens on the people, was limited by law.
The Emperor became a mere emblem of authority with a civil
bureaucracy and military " Shoguns." When the capital, which had
changed with every emperor, ceased to be mobile, the city of Nara
was laid out with nine gates, a palace, and seven great temples.
When later Kb-to became the capital (A.D. 794) the art of domestic
architecture and landscape gardening made great strides. Through
various vicissitudes and Shogun aggressions Buddhism waxed
stronger, and fortified monasteries were multiplied.

VI.

Feudalism, which was at its height in the thirteenth century,

recognised three groupsthe Emperor and nobles, the military, and
the people.
Under the Tokugawa Dynasty (A.D. 1598) the divine descent of the
Mikado was emphasised, and, after continual strife between civil
and military authorities, the last of the Shoguns resigned in A.D.
1867. Then the people began to be considered, so that the
constitution was promulgated in A.D. 1890, and representative
government laid the foundation of the present progressive position
of Japan.
The ancient national custom of tea-drinking influenced the arts, and
the formation of tea clubs led to a special treatment of tea-houses,
buildings, and gardens, the size of which was regulated by law.
Historical.
While the domestic or social history of Japan in early times is dim
and mythical, her external history through all ages is vague and
largely non-existent, owing to the frequent exclusion of all foreign
intercourse.
The Japanese, however, date back their unbroken dynasty of
Mikados to the Emperor Jummu, who is said to have ascended the
throne as early as B.C. 660, which would make him contemporary
with Nebuchadnezzar.
Written records only begin with A.D. 712, but there is evidence of
Chinese social influence in Japan as early as the seventh century,
which seems to have created a distinction between civil and
military classes.
Oversea trade was always regarded in japan as a government
monopoly, and thus there was no incentive for individual enterprise
in foreign commerce, which in other countries has always been an
emissary of international civilisation.
Foreign intercourse, which was intermittent, was carried on with
China and Corea as early as the eighth century of our era, but it
was not until A.D. 1543, when the Portuguese discovered and began
trading with the islands, that japan was brought into contact with
Europeans.
In A.D. 1549 S. Francis Xavier introduced Christianity, and started a
Christian propaganda which led to many conflicts.
In A.D. 1582 the first Japanese envoys sailed for Europe and came
in contact with the art and customs of Portugal, Spain, and Italy,
and in A. D. 1592 the Japanese invaded Corea.
The pendulum, however, swung back once more, and in A.D. 1614
all foreign priests were expelled and their churches demolished ;
Spaniards were driven out in A.D. 1624 and Portuguese in A.D.
1638, when Christianity was finally interdicted and Japan was
closed to the outside world for nearly 200 years.

VII.

In A.D. 1854 commercial treaties were entered into with America

and with European countries, when japan came under Dutch and
Russian influence and felt the effect of American enterprise and
English institutions. After this came the war with China, while in A.
D. 1914 japan joined in the great alliance against Germany.

Tradition
Much in the traditional architecture of Japan is not native, but
was imported from China and other Asian cultures over the
centuries.
Japanese traditional architecture and its history are as a
consequence dominated by Chinese and Asian techniques and
styles (present even in Ise Shrine, held to be the quintessence
of Japanese architecture) on one side, and by Japanese
original variations on those themes on the other

VIII. COMPOUND MATERIALS

In contrast to her Asian mainland neighbors which used a combination of stone and
wood materials for temple configurations, Japan almost exclusively used wood in
such endeavors.

The nation was blessed with abundant forests throughout all the home islands, and
was thus complemented with a skilled class of woodworking artisans.

Wood also represented life; hence to envelope one's creation with wood was to
celebrate the existence of life itself.

Stone, despite its strength and time resiliency, was time-consuming to carve and
incurred high transportation cost.

Another particular Japanese feature was the construction of temples on raised

platforms. Due to the hot and humid climate conditions, these stilts provided the
necessary ventilation along the foundation base to prevent moisture from
compromising structural integrity.

A feature reflected the Japanese cultural outlook in being conservative decorators.

Chinese Buddhist temples were often ornately decorated with eaves and columns
painted in bright base colors. The Japanese rendered the temples in polished bare
wood finish to emphasize natural simplicity. In any event, certain types of wood
(such as cypress) are weather-resistant in both hot and cold climates, therefore does
not require painting for surface protection.

A feature integrated concepts from Japan's "Shinto" (Way of the Gods) religion via
the arch gateway called the "Torii". This religion has been colloquially called
"Emperor Worship" in the West, but is somewhat of a misnomer. A more correct
definition is the worship of terrain phenomena or coalescence of natural forces, such
as a waterfall nestled deep in the forest, prominent mountain peaks, and unusual rock
formations.

Architectural character

Japanese architecture was largely derived from China, but has its own special
character of minuteness in carving and decoration which gives it a graceful
lightness and delicacy of design, contrasting forcibly with that of Egypt and
Rome, in which the great idea was vastness of size and grandeur of
proportion.
This quality of refinement is introduced in their timber constructions with
such artistic skill as to render them akin to fine joinery.
Japanese architecture is specially notable for sloping and curved roofs,
forming a contrast with that of Egypt and India, where flat terrace roofs
predominate.
The projecting roofs, ornamented with dragons and other fabulous monsters,
are supported on a succession of small brackets and are most striking
features (p. 823).
Japanese temple architecture, though it started under Chinese influence, did
not depend for impressiveness on the monotonous repetition of the same
feature, but owes much of its character to the well-balanced symmetry of the
various parts, and this is produced by restrained variety rather than by mere
formality of treatment ; while interiors depend on their world-famous
decorative art, which covered wall and roof with a lavish use of gold and
brilliant colouring, well suited to the subdued light of Buddhist temples.
Gateways, belfries, quaint gardens, summer houses, rustic arbours, and fish
ponds form a delightful setting to the main structure.

Japanese architecture from the Asuka Period to the end of the Edo
period (552-1868)

Shinto Architecture

Shinto shrines are, more than any other architecture, the crystallization
of the Japanese homage to tradition. They contribute to the landscape
as opposed to architecture in the normal sense, and reflect the worship
of the spirits of the environment whose vagaries, it was believed,
determined the quality and quantity of crops.

The introduction of agriculture to Japan, from about the third century

BC, encouraged the establishment of permanent villages in which
festivals were held at certain times of the year, to express thanks for
good crops and to pray for rain and good harvests in the future.
At first the sacred site was probably distinguished by a simple
surrounding fence (tamagaki) (look for picture of tamagaki) and an
entrance gate (torii) (look for the picture of torii) the first
architectural elements to be employed.
As the festivals developed, the deities symbolizing natural forces were
given physical form, such as a wooden column at the centre of the
festival place.
Shrines were built to welcome gods, who descended temporarily to the
earth, and were housed in temporary buildings, used only once, for the
gods sojourn on the earth.

Ise Shrine: (insert pictures of ise shrine)

Shrines only achieved the status of monuments comparable with those

of the Buddhist temples when the deity of the Ise Shrine came to be
worshipped as the ancestral goddess of the imperial family and as the
national god.
The Ise shrine has continued to be the principal Japanese shrine from
the 7th century until the present day, thus influencing the forms of
other shrine building.
The first remarkable architectural feature of the Ise shrine is that it
attained its distinction by refining its archetype, a store house with an
elevated floor. (insert picture of Archetype)
The present shrine buildings at Ise were rebuilt in 1973, and they are a
little different from those constructed in the 7th century.

Torii (insert pic of Torii) is the entrance gate of the shrine precinct,
and consists primarily of two pillars and two horizontal beams. Both of the
pillars are usually embedded directly in the earth.
Shimmei torii- simplest form of torii
Myojin torii- it has double lintels curved to resemble the eaves of
temple architecture

THE CHARACTERISTICS OF Ise shrine are consistent with having been

derived from existing building methods before the introduction of
Buddhist architecture into Japan. The katsougi, chigi and muna-mochibashira are stylized forms of the primitive elements of the storehouse,
and the elevated floor and closed interior also suggest that the
archetype of the shrine is more likely to be storehouse than a dwelling.

A number of mausoleum are also regarded as shrines. (insert pictures)

Kitano shrine- built in the Gongen style in kyoto. It was founded in the tenth
century to enshrine Sugawara Michizane, a distinguised statesman. After the civil
wars at the end of the 16th century Toyotomi Hideyoshi built for himself a shrine of
similar style. The Tokugawa Shogunate followed the same custom andbuilt a
number of mausolea-shrines for the Tokogawa family, including the famous Toshogu
at Nikko which enshrines the founder Ieyasu.
Main Shrines at Sumiyoshi- There are four of these facing west where once
existed a beautiful seashore to the south of Osaka. To enshrine four gods, four
separate buildings of the same shape and size were erected. Three of them stand in
line, one behind the other, and the fourth to one side, in an L-shape layout. Each
shrine is two bays deep measuring 4.8m (16ft) in total, and four bays measuring a
total of 8m(26ft), and the interior is divided into two rooms. Although the exterior
are brightly painted, the interior are natural wood. Futhermore, there is no curve in
the roof. The present buildings were last reconstructed in 1810, but have a long
hisyory of periodic reconstruction between the8th and 15th centuries.
Kasuga Shrine- Is at the foot of Mount Mikasa on the eastern boundary of the
cityof Nara. The four main buildings each 1.83m x 2.64m, are adjacent to each
other, their corner pillars set on grid frame placed on the ground. The roofs are
covered with cypress bark and have two ridge billets. The present buildings were
last reconstructed in 1863, but the style was established in the Heian Period (7941192) as can be ascertained from the shape of the forked finials and the subtle
curve connecting the pent roof over the front steps with the main roof. These
buildings are archetypal in that they are diminutive in size and are constructed on
grid frame.
The main shrine at Kamo-no-Wakeikazuchi- was last reconstructed in 1864. It
is located on the Kamo River in kyoto and is redolent of mysterious legends and
esoteric ceremonies. The innermost precinct contains adjacent twin buildings facing
south: the east building is the main shrine, the west building a temporary shrine
used when the main shrine is under reconstruction or repair and the associated
rituals at such times have important significance. The building are constructed on
the grid frame like those at Kasuga, but are 5.9m x 7.2m, hence much larger.
The Usa Shrine, kyushu - rebuilt 1855-1861, is unusual in form. Eachof the three
main buildings consists of two gabled-roof structures placed one in front of the other
with a large gutter in valley between them. The interiors are continuous spaces,
however, divided into two rooms , both having seats for god. Thus, it cannot be
presumed that the front space served was revered by the imperial court as early as
the 8th century, and may have been established under Buddhist influence.

The shrine buildings if Itsukushima- are constructed on the shore of an island in

the Inland Sea, and at the high tide seem to float above the sea with the island as a
background; indeed a grand Torii stands in the sea at some distance from the other
buildings. The group compromises two central Shrines located at the right angles to
each other, various attached buildings, other small shrine and open corridors
connecting them. The buildings were the first constructed in 1168 and after two
fires was wholly reconstructed in,1241 in approximately the same form as can be
seen today.
The main structure of Kibitsu Shrine - is the largest of all Japanese shrine
buildings: 14.5m wide by 17.9m deep. It compromises some unusual elements, such
as large roofwith a pair of gables on both sides, deeply projecting eaves, and a high
podium. The building's unique plan called for an unprecedented size. At the centre
of the building is the main sanctuary, encircled by aisles and with floor and ceiling
levels becoming higher from the outer to the inner spaces.
Toshogu at Nikko - reconstructed in 1636 as a mausoleum for Ieyasu, founder of
the Tokugawa Shogunate, is a complex assembly of numerous buildings includes a
main hall and a worship hall in the Gongen style, approached through the karamon
(chinese gate) and the famous Yomei Gate dividing the front court and the holy
precinct. Sculpture, laquer work, painting, and metal-craft all play a part in
decoration: the structural timbers and the walls are sculptured, and black lacquer,
rich red and green coatings are picked out by the gold of metal fittings.
The Izumo shrine- The Izumo clan was a powerful one and the Izumo Shrine was
gamous from ancient times for its grandeur. It is reported that in the eleventh and
twelfth centuries the shrine collapsed frequently, probably because the structure
was unable to support its great height which in the earliest period was 48m (160ft).
The present building is a smaller version rebuilt in 1744, 24m(80ft) in the height
from the ground to the top of the forked finials. Its is 10.9m(36ft) square in plan and
each side is divided into two bays. The gabled roof, covered with cypress bark, has
a slight curve, two separate forked finials at each end, and three ridge billets.

Temple architecture
The arch gateway identified the temple threshold as the pilgrims summoned their spiritual
energy. As they traveled along the main thoroughfare reciting incantations, the symmetrical
layout of buildings and pagodas reinforced the imagery of cosmic order. Upon reaching the
temple worship hall, they are within the physical presence of Buddha and thus focused their
prayers towards the religious icon.

In order to project a grandiose, yet harmonious atmosphere within the worship hall, a special
architectural style divided the temple into four interdependent areas: 1) Base columns, 2)
Sloping roof, 3) Interlaced brackets, 4) Roof decorations.

All four areas were mathematically dependent upon each other. Therefore, structural integrity
changes in one area required the recalculation of the other three areas. Since temple-building was
both a ritualistic and architectural endeavor, the entire project followed a predefined modular
process, for no parts were prefabricated ahead of time.
1) Base Columns
Base of the worship hall was demarcated by support columns anchored along the rectangular
perimeter. To ancient man, this rigid geometric shape also identified divine boundaries since one
was in the physical presence of Buddha, as represented by the interior statue. Some say this
rectangular shape was another Confucian-inspired symbolism of cosmic order and structural
stability.
2) Sloping Roof
In order to maintain geometric balance with the natural surroundings, a parametric (gently
angled) roof with decorative eaves (projecting overhang at the lower portions of a roof) was
conceived. A steep-angle of descent began at the top of the roof, but tapered off to a more
gradual incline upon reaching the eaves. This easy-flowing rhythm blended well into the
background scenery of hills, forest, mountains.
3) Interlaced Brackets & Rafters
Purlins were horizontal wooden beams braced to the rafters. Rafters were sloping wooden beams
that supported the pitched roof. Special grooves were cut into these components for a custom fit
(similar to American log cabin construction). Multiple wooden brackets were installed in a stepwise fashion at major connection points where the purlins, rafters, and column all met. Thus,
forming the critical framework underneath the roof. This stacking feature enabled bracketed
columns to expand the surface support area. With fewer columns upholding the temple roof,
unobstructed view of worship hall was maintained.
An intriguing characteristic is the Japanese hardwood's geo-resonance quality within the column
framework. It has been documented that during low-intensity earthquakes, the interlaced
bracketed columns are able to convert kinetic energy from the ground trembles, into thermal
energy via moderate friction among the wooden components. No doubt ancient man would have
viewed this quality to be divinely inspired.
4) Roof Decorations
As with Gothic-era water-spouting stone gargoyles, TANG-era roof tiles also channeled rain
water to prevent erosion. Temples with smaller roof areas used overlapping ceramic tiles placed

in a wave-like rhythm, while roof with larger areas used contoured wooden planks that gave it an
overall smooth arc-like feature.

Temples came along with the import of Buddhism from China around the
6th century. At first, temples resembled those in China closely in features,
such as having wide courtyards and symmetrical layouts. Some of the
oldest surviving temple buildings exhibiting these features can be found
in Nara, in particular at Horyuji (the world's oldest wooden structure),
Todaiji (the world's largest wooden structure), Yakushiji and Kofukuji.
Asukadera, located about 25 kilometers south of Nara City, is considered
the oldest Buddhist institution in Japan.

Examples:
Horyuji (the world's oldest wooden structure)

Founded in 607 AD by Prince Shotoku, who is attributed with having introduced

Buddhism to Japan, Horyuji (, Hryji) is one of Japan's oldest temples. Its main
hall, five story pagoda and central gate, all located in the temple's Saiin Garan (Western
Precinct), are the world's oldest surviving wooden structures.

Next to the Saiin Garan is Daihozoin (or Great Treasure Hall), a newly-constructed hall
built in 1998 to exhibit a part of the temple's historied art collection. On the other side of

the temple grounds, the main attraction of the Toin Garan (Eastern Precinct) is the
octogonally-shaped Yumedono, the Hall of Visions.

In 1993, Horyuji was designated a UNESCO world heritage site. Unlike many other
historic attractions in Japan, Horyuji is wheelchair accessible and provides pamphlets in
various foreign languages.

Todaiji (the world's largest wooden structure)

Todaiji (, Tdaiji, "Great Eastern Temple") is one of Japan's most famous and
historically significant temples and a landmark of Nara. The temple was constructed in
752 as the head temple of all provincial Buddhist temples of Japan and grew so powerful
that the capital was moved from Nara to Nagaoka in 784 in order to lower the temple's
influence on government affairs.

Todaiji's main hall, the Daibutsuden (Big Buddha Hall) is the world's largest wooden
building, despite the fact that the present reconstruction of 1692 is only two thirds of the
original temple hall's size. The massive building houses one of Japan's largest bronze
statues of Buddha (Daibutsu). The 15 meters tall, seated Buddha represents Vairocana
and is flanked by two Bodhisattvas.

Several smaller Buddhist statues and models of the former and current buildings are also
on display in the Daibutsuden Hall. Another popular attraction is a pillar with a hole in its
base that is the same size as the Daibutsu's nostril. It is said that those who can squeeze
through this opening will be granted enlightenment in their next life.

Along the approach to Todaiji stands the Nandaimon Gate, a large wooden gate watched
over by two fierce looking statues. Representing the Nio Guardian Kings, the statues are
designated national treasures together with the gate itself. Temple visitors will also
encounter some deer from the adjacent Nara Park, begging for shika senbei, special
crackers for deer that are sold for around 150 yen.

A new addition to the temple is the Todaiji Museum, which was opened to the public in
2011 just next to the Nandaimon Gate. Rotating exhibitions from the temple's large
collection of religious art and cultural treasures, including large Buddhist statues, are held
at the museum.

Yakushiji

Yakushiji () was constructed by Emperor Tenmu in the late 7th century for the
recovery of the emperor's sick wife. One of Japan's oldest temples, Yakushiji has a strictly

symmetric layout, with the main hall and lecture hall standing on a central axis, flanked
by two pagodas.

The main hall was rebuilt in the 1970s after being destroyed by fire and houses a Yakushi
trinity, a masterpiece of Japanese Buddhist art. The East Pagoda is the temple's only
structure to have survived the many fires that have beset the temple over the years, and
dates from 730. It appears to have six stories, but is in fact only truly three-storied, like
the West Pagoda.

The East Pagoda of Yakushiji is undergoing major renovation works over a time period of
almost ten years (until 2019), during which the pagoda is covered up by scaffolding. The
other buildings are unaffected and still make a worthwhile visit.

The Genjo-sanzoin Garan is a recently built complex located slightly north of the main
complex area. Constructed in 1981, the complex is dedicated to the Chinese monk Genjosanzo, who lived in the 7th century and is famous for his extensive travels to India and
Central Asia. Yakushiji is the head temple of the Hosso Sect of Japanese Buddhism, upon
which Genjo-sanzo's teachings had a profound influence.

The main building at Genjo-sanzoin Garan is a central octagonal hall, in which some of
Genjo-sanzo's remains are enshrined. Behind the octagonal hall is a building displaying
works of Hirayama Ikuo, one of Japan's most celebrated painters who passed away in
2009. The paintings depict scenes of Genjo-sanzo's journeys, which have inspired
Hirayama's work. Unfortunately, however, the complex is closed about half the year (see
admission details below).

Kofukuji Temple

Kofukuji (, Kfukuji) used to be the family temple of the Fujiwara, the most
powerful family clan during much of the Nara and Heian Periods. The temple was
established in Nara at the same time as the capital in 710. At the height of Fujiwara
power, the temple consisted of over 150 buildings.

Today a couple of buildings of great historic value remain, including a five story pagoda
and a three story pagoda. At 50 meters, the five story pagoda is Japan's second tallest,
just seven meters shorter than the five story pagoda at Kyoto's Toji Temple. Kofukuji's
pagoda is both a landmark and symbol of Nara. It was first built in 730, and was most
recently rebuilt in 1426.

While entrance to Kofukuji's temple grounds is free and possible around the clock, there
are two areas that require paying an entrance fee: Kofukuji's National Treasure Museum
and the Eastern Golden Hall. The recently renovated National Treasure Museum
exhibits part of the temple's great art collection and is an absolute must-see for lovers of
Buddhist art. Among the many outstanding exhibits is the three-faced, six-armed Ashura
Statue, one of the most celebrated Buddhist statues in all of Japan

The Southern Octagonal Hall in the evening

The Eastern Golden Hall, located not far from the national treasure museum, features a
large wooden statue of the Yakushi Buddha. Another pair of interesting buildings are the
Northern and Southern Octagonal Halls. They both originally date back over a thousand
years, and their present reconstructions were completed in 1789 and 1210 respectively.
The buildings also house some of the temple's treasured artifacts, but are only open to the
public a few days a year.

Kofukuji's main building, the Central Golden Hall, was destroyed in a fire in 1717 and although a replacement hall was built on a smaller scale in the 1800s - the original
Central Golden Hall was not reconstructed. In recent years, however, it was decided to
rebuild the hall in its full former glory. Reconstruction works are currently ongoing and
are scheduled to be completed in the year 2018.

As mentioned above, the Central Golden Hall is presently being reconstructed and
scheduled to be completed in October 2018. Further reconstruction works around the hall
are planned to continue until 2023.

Asukadera Temple

Asukadera Temple seen from Amakashi Hill

Founded in 596, about 60 years after the introduction of Buddhism to Japan, Asukadera was
constructed as Japan's first full-scale temple. It was originally a large complex, but now it
consists of a handful of buildings that date back only a few hundred years. Its main object of
worship, however, is the oldest known Japanese statue of Buddha and dates back to 20 years
after the temple's founding.

The temple was built at the behest of Soga Umako, a member of the powerful Soga clan. The
clan had supported Buddhism since its introduction, and defeated the rival Mononobe clan
who opposed the foreign religion. When the emperor and the capital city were moved out
from the Asuka region, so did the religious establishment attached to the temple, establishing
itself in the new capital of Nara as Gangoji Temple. For this reason, Asukadera is also
referred to as the "original Gangoji".

Asukadera's Main Hall

The original buildings of Asukadera were lost in fires, and the present buildings date back
to 1632 and 1826. There was previously a pagoda, a large auditorium and other buildings.
The current temple complex is made up of a couple of modest buildings, and is nestled in
a quiet residential area. The highlight of the temple is the Asuka Great Buddha statue
on display in the temple's main hall. It is the oldest known Japanese statue of Buddha in
existence.

The Asuka Great Buddha was made in 609 by a master sculptor whose family had
emigrated from the Korean peninsula. The seated figure is about three meters high, and
required about 15 tons of copper and 30 kilograms of gold to create. The sculpture
naturally reflects a strong influence from the Asian mainland. For those who have an
interest in Japanese sculpture, the Asuka Great Buddha provides a fascinating glimpse
into the genesis of the art form.

The Asuka Great Buddha

Palaces

Imperial palaces are the seat of the Emperor. In the past, a new palace was built with the
relocation of the capital every time a new emperor ascended to the throne. In 710, the first
permanent capital was set up in Nara, and thus the first permanent palace, the Heijo Palace,
was built. The palace's former site is open to tourists today and exhibits a few rebuilt
structures.

The imperial capital was later moved to Kyoto where it remained for over a thousand years
until 1868. Along with the Kyoto Imperial Palace, several imperial villas still exist,
exhibiting a grand and dignified, yet not overly-ostentatious style. The Kyoto Palace, Sento
Palace, Katsura Villa and Shugakuin Villa are open to the public today. Furthermore, some
temples such as Kyoto's Ninnaji and Daikakuji utilize former palace buildings.

From the 14th to the 16th century, Japan went through a period of civil war. With the
arrival of peace in the Edo Period, feudal lords started to build palaces for themselves too.
These palaces were usually situated within the castles but separate from the main keep.
They served as residences, offices and reception halls. Most castle palaces have been
destroyed, leaving only a handful of original ones, most notably the Ninomaru Palace at

Nijo Castle and some recent reconstructions at the castles of Nagoya, Kumamoto and
Hikone.

Examples:
Heijo Palace (Nara Imperial Palace)

Suzaku gate

During most of the Nara Period (710-794), Nara served as the capital of Japan and was
known as Heijo-kyo. The Heijo Palace extended about one kilometer wide and one
kilometer long and served as the site of the emperor's residence and government offices.
For its great historical and cultural importance, the palace site is included as one of the
UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Nara.

Although the palace once stood as the majestic center of the ancient capital, all of its
original buildings were eventually lost, with the exception of a single hall that was moved
in the 8th century and now stands at Toshodaiji Temple. When the capital was moved
away from Heijo-kyo in 784, Heijo Palace and a large part of the city were abandoned as
people flocked to the new capital. The temples on the outskirts of the former capital,
however, retained their importance, and the city of Nara eventually resumed its growth
around these temples, while the palace grounds were used for nothing but rice fields.

Three major structures of the former palace complex have been reconstructed in recent
decades. Foremost among them is the Former Audience Hall (Daigokuden), the largest
building on the palace grounds, which was reconstructed for the occasion of the 1300th
anniversary of Nara Capital and opened to the public in April 2010.

Former Audience Hall

The large audience hall was used as the site of important ceremonies and meetings. Its
ceiling is decorated by the four animals of the direction on the compass and the twelve
animals of the lunar calendar. A throne stands in the center of the hall. The building is
called the "former" audience hall, because it was replaced by the "latter" audience hall in
the second half of the Nara Period. The latter audience hall's foundations are visible to the
east of the former audience hall.

Two more full-scale reconstructions from the 1990s are the Suzaku Gate (Suzakumon),
the main gate of the palace to the south, and the East Palace Garden (Toin Teien), which
features a pond, streams and bridges, and was used by the imperial family for banquets.
Also partially reconstructed were the offices of the Imperial Household Agency
(Kunaicho).

East Palace Garden

Furthermore there are various building foundations scattered across the palace grounds,
some of which are highlighted by bushes, poles or low walls to indicate the former
locations of other palace structures, such as the imperial living quarters and
administrative offices.

At the northeast corner of the palace grounds stands the Excavation Site Exhibition
Hall, where exposed excavation sites are left open to be viewed by the public. At the
western end of the grounds is the Nara Palace Site Museum, a moderately sized, very
informative museum with artifacts, models, photographs and maps on display, including
several wooden tablets that were widely used as an alternative to more expensive paper
during the Nara Period.

A few steps from the Suzaka Gate stands the Heijokyo History Museum, which was
originally built for the 1300th anniversary of Nara Capital in 2010. Its main features are a
replica of a ship used to travel between Japan and China during the Nara Period and an
impressive high-resolution movie about the capital city as it looked like during its
heydays. Unfortunately, there are no English signs or subtitles.

Sento Imperial Palace

Entrance to Omiya Palace

Sento Imperial Palace (, Sent Gosho) is a secondary palace complex across from
the Kyoto Imperial Palace in Kyoto Imperial Park. It was built in 1630 as the retirement
palace of Emperor Gomizuno, and became the palace for subsequent retired emperors.

The original palace buildings burned down in 1854 and were not rebuilt. Instead, Omiya
Palace was constructed on the Sento grounds in 1867 and now serves as the lodging place
for the current prince and princess during their visits to Kyoto.

The palace garden's South Pond

Visiting Sento Imperial Palace requires booking a free tour through the Imperial
Household Agency, which manages all the Imperial properties. The tour leads through the
Sento garden which is comprised of the North Pond and South Pond areas. It is a
beautiful example of a strolling garden.

Tours of Sento Palace last about one hour and are conducted in Japanese only. None of
the palace buildings are entered, however, some of the structures, such as the Seikatei
teahouse, are left open so that visitors can see inside and get an impression of imperial
design and style.

Katsura Imperial Villa

Katsura Imperial Villa (, Katsura Riky) is one of the finest examples of purely
Japanese architecture and garden design. The villa and garden in their present form were
completed in 1645 as the residence for the Katsura Family, members of Japan's Imperial
Family.

The villa can be viewed only on tours held by the Imperial Household Agency. They last
about one hour and are in Japanese only, however, an English audio guide is available.
During the tour, the tour group walks along the garden's circular walking trail around the

central pond. The palace buildings can be viewed only from the outside. Photographing is
allowed only from a few designated spots.

Shugakuin Imperial Villa

Shugakuin Imperial Villa (, Shugakuin Riky) was built in the 17th century
by Emperor Gomizuno and is now managed by the Imperial Household Agency. It
consists of the Upper, Middle and Lower Villa areas, each featuring gardens and
buildings of the traditional imperial style.

Shugakuin's name comes from a former temple built on the same site in the tenth century.
The Imperial Villa was constructed between 1655 and 1659, with a palace for

Gomizuno's daughter added ten years later. More recently in 1964, the surrounding
farmlands were bought by the Imperial Household Agency. They are leased out to local
farmers who continue to work the fields.

Shugakuin is only accessible to the public through guided tours. The tour must be booked
in advance and lasts about one hour and twenty minutes. It takes visitors through all three
villas, and points out the significant garden features and structures. The tour is only
offered in Japanese, however, an English audio guide is available.

As with all Imperial properties, it is not possible to enter any of the buildings. However,
for those interested in Japanese design and architecture, several buildings are left open
along the tour route so that visitors can see inside. Important features such as elevated
tatami mats and painted panels are pointed out by the audio guide.

Castles
The civil war also gave the impetus for the construction of castles. Initially built for purpose of
fortification, the castles became the center of government and status symbols for the provincial
lords as war drew to an end and Japan was reunited in the late 1500s. Hundreds of castles used to
stand across the country, but due to wars, natural disasters and past governments' policies to limit
their numbers, today only twelve castle keeps survive from the feudal era, while a few dozen
others have been rebuilt in the 20th century.

The primary material for castle construction used to be wood, but most of the rebuilt castles were
constructed using ferro concrete, and thus they look authentic from the outside but not from
within. Two of the best original castles, i.e. castles that survived the post-feudal years, are Himeji
Castle and Matsumoto Castle.

Examples:

Himeji Castle

Himeji Castle (, Himejij) is widely considered Japan's most spectacular castle.

Unlike many other Japanese castles, Himeji Castle was never destroyed in wars,
earthquakes or fires and survives in its original form. It is both a national treasure and a
world heritage site. The castle recently underwent extensive renovation works over
several years and was fully re-opened to the public in March 2015.

In the 14th century, a fort was first built on the current castle site. Over the centuries, the
various clans, who ruled over the region, gradually enlarged it. The castle complex, as it
survives today, was completed in 1609. The well defended castle and its wooden interior
are fascinating, and the castle's sight is spectacular, especially during the short and
crowded cherry blossom season, that usually takes place in early April.

Matsumoto Castle

Matsumoto Castle (, Matsumotoj) is one of the most complete and beautiful

among Japan's original castles. It is a "hirajiro" - a castle built on plains rather than on a
hill or mountain. Matsumoto Castle is unique for having both a secondary donjon and a
turret adjoined to its main keep. The castle structures, in combination with their
characteristic black wainscoting, give off an air of grandeur and poise.

Matsumotojo's main castle keep and its smaller, second donjon were built from 1592 to
1614. Both these structures were well-fortified as peace was not yet fully achieved at the
time. In 1635, when military threats had ceased, a third, barely defended turret and
another for moon viewing were added to the castle.

View from the castle buildings

The wooden interior of Matsumoto Castle provides an authentic experience unlike that
felt at many other castles rebuilt of ferro-concrete. Interesting features of the castle
include steep wooden stairs, openings to drop stones onto invaders, openings for archers,
as well as an observation deck at the top, sixth floor of the main keep with nice views
over the surrounding city.

In spring, Matsumoto Castle is a popular cherry blossom spot. Many visit to stroll around
the spacious castle grounds and park. Along the outer castle moat are hundreds of somei
yoshino cherry trees that provide lovely views when they are in full bloom around mid
April each year.

Along the northern moat of the castle in spring

Samurai Residences

During the Edo Period (1603 - 1867), the samurai were required to reside in the castle
towns that surrounded the castles. The grandeur of a samurai's house was determined by
his rank in the hierarchy. Strict regulations had to be followed; for example, the size of
the pillars and the type of gates to be used were pertained by status. While higher ranking
samurai lived closest to the castle in large houses with spacious tatami rooms and
gardens, lower ranking samurai had more humble residences further away from the
castle.

Naturally, only the mansions of high-ranked samurai were preserved over time, and
therefore they may not portray the picture of the average samurai residence. Nonetheless,
they provide interesting insights to what a samurai residence looked like. Today, former
samurai residences are best seen in cities which preserve some of their samurai districts,

such as Kanazawa or Hagi. A few of them date back to the Edo Period.

Former samurai residences in Hagi

Nagamachi Samurai District

Nagamachi () was a samurai district located at the foot of the former Kanazawa
Castle, where samurai and their families used to reside. The area preserves a historic
atmosphere with its remaining samurai residences, earthen walls, private entrance gates,
narrow lanes and water canals.

One of the main attractions of the district is the centrally located Nomura-ke, a restored
samurai residence displaying the lifestyle and artifacts of the era when samurai were
prosperous. In contrast is the Shinise Kinenkan Museum, a restored pharmacy
displaying the lives of the merchant class which rose in prosperity as the samurai
declined.

The district has a few other museums and restored structures, as well as a number of shops
and restaurants scattered throughout. Below is list of some of the attractions around
Nagamachi:

Nomura-ke - A restored samurai residence with a beautiful, small garden. The Nomura were a
high ranked samurai family who, like many other samurai, went broke when Japan's feudal era
came to an end with the Meiji Period.

Shinise Kinenkan Museum

The Shinise Kinenkan is a restored shop of the Edo Period. Once a prominent
pharmacy, it now is a museum that also shows local Kanazawa crafts.

Maeda Tosanokami-ke Shiryokan

This museum is dedicated to the Maeda family who once ruled over the region
around Kanazawa. The museum features samurai armor and other relics of the
Maeda Clan. English audio guides are freely available.

Ashigaru Shiryokan Museum

The ashigaru, or footsoldiers, were the lowest ranked soldiers of the samurai class.
This small museum consists of two reconstructed homes, which illustrate the
relatively austere lifestyle of the ashigaru.

Kaga Hanshi
This preserved building was previously a stable that housed horses. Today it
contains a nice strolling garden in the middle of the Nagamachi district.

Former Castle Town

During the Edo Period (1603-1867), Hagi prospered as a castle town and served as the
capital of the Mori Clan, one of the most powerful clans of the time. Mori lords governed
present Yamaguchi (then known as Choshu) for more than 250 years and played a central
role in the Meiji Restoration (1868). The lord, his family and his closest retainers resided
in the castle, while the samurai, craftsmen and merchants lived and worked east of it.

Having avoided major disasters since the Edo Period, the basic town plan of Hagi has
survived to this day. Although only the ruins of Hagi Castle remain, some streets in the
downtown area are beautifully preserved, lined by white walls from the feudal age,
former samurai mansions and merchant quarters. Several of the mansions and other
places of interest such as museums and temples are open to the public:

Kikuya Residence
The Kikuya family was a samurai turned merchant family who is well-regarded for their past
contributions to Hagi and its people. The Kikuya Residence is the most outstanding of all the old
residences in the former castle town, and it features some pretty avant garde interior designing
for a building with an approximately 350 year history. One example is a room which has sliding
doors that are able to turn corners, enabling it to be totally exposed to the garden outside.

Kubota Residence
The Kubota Residence is about 200 years old and belonged to a family in the
kimono and sake business. The spacious house has a large kitchen and multiple
tatami mat rooms separated by sliding doors that can be opened to join rooms into
large spaces. Old tools and lamps from the late Edo Period (1603-1867) to the Meiji
Period (1868-1912) are exhibited.

Kido Takayoshi Residence

This was the birth house of Kido Takayoshi, an influential Japanese statesman who
helped to bring about the Meiji Restoration in 1868. The house is about 250 years
old and has a small garden, where an over 300 year old pine tree stands.

Hagi Museum
This well designed museum features maps of past and present Hagi, as well as
dioramas of the castle town. It recounts the history of famous locals such as Yoshida
Shoin. There are also exhibits about the region's agriculture, marine life and
geography. Moderate English information is available.

Townhouses
Townhouses were inhabited by craftsmen and merchants, further down the social ladder in the
past. Many townhouses had relatively narrow facades but extended wide into the back because
taxation was often based on road access. A typical townhouse had its store in front, the living
quarters behind, and a storehouse (kura) in the back. Storehouses were fire-insulated with
earthen walls to protect valuable goods from the threat of fires.

Several merchant districts exist today with nicely preserved townhouses, such as those in
Takayama and Kurashiki. Some of the merchant houses open to tourists may resemble samurai
residences. This is due to the tendency to preserve only the houses of the richest merchants, who
towards the end of the Edo Period had become successful enough to design their houses in a
style similar to that reserved for the samurai.

Merchant houses in Takayama

Farmhouse
Farmers made up the majority of Japan's population into the Meiji Period (1868-1912). Different
farmhouse construction styles developed according to widely varying weather patterns.
However, architectural similarities can be seen between dwellings across the country, such as the
wooden facades, thatched roofs, sunken hearths (irori), earth floors for stable and kitchen, and
living spaces on elevated wooden floors that may have included some tatami rooms in case of the
more well-off families.
Farmhouses were the most numerous among the old buildings but were rarely preserved, and
thus the remaining ones that we see today tend to be the more prestigious ones, such as those that
belonged to village heads or those in remote locations such as Shirakawago and Miyama where
entire villages have been preserved to a certain degree. Open air museums are also good places
to see regional styles of farmhouses.

Farmhouses in Shirakawago