My Little Pony

Amigurumi

Stitches used (US terms)

Materials
Yarn

ch: chain stitch

Schachenmayr Catania cotton in the colors of your choice

sl st: slip stitch

Approximately 1 skein (125m/137yds) for the full body

sc: single crochet

Approximately - skein for mane and tail, depending on style

hdc: half-double crochet

Scraps of a color slightly darker than the body for embroidering the

dc: double crochet

snout

inc: single crochet increase

dec: invisible decrease (tutorial)

Other

flo: front loop only

2.5 mm hook

blo: back loop only

Polyfill

magic ring (tutorial)

Yarn needle

Instructions

Iron-on fabric or felt

Acrylic paint or colored markers (for eyes and cutie mark)
Scizzors

Rounds are worked in spirals without joining. Place a marker at the

Fabric glue

start of every round to indicate the beginning of the round.

Gauge

If the pattern calls for make x extra stitches, move marker remove the marker and make the amount of sc stiches indicated (1 sc
in each stitch). The last extra sc you made is now the new end of the

These instructions are written with Catania cotton in mind, which is a

round. Start with the instructions for the next round and re-place the

sports weight yarn. With this yarn and a 2.5mm hook, the pony will be

marker in the first stitch.

about 20 cm tall.

All stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise indici-

As always with amigurumi, gauge isnt really important and you can

ated.

easily replace the yarn with the brand of your choice as long as you use

Instructions between ** are to be repeated until the end of the

the appropriate hook to get a nice tight fabric. If you use a thicker yarn

round. Instructions between [] are to be repeated as many times as

(DK, worsted), yardage needed may be different than whats listed and

noted after the closing bracket. Numbers between () indicate the total

the pony will turn out a lot bigger.

amount of stitches in that round.

Head
r1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
r2: *inc* (12)
r3: [1sc, inc]x3, [inc, 1sc]x3 (18)
r4: [2sc, inc]x3, [inc, 2sc]x3 (24)
r5: [3sc, inc]x3, [inc, 3sc]x3 (30)
r6: [4sc, inc]x3, [inc, 4sc]x3 (36)
r7: sc around
r8: [5sc, inc]x3, [inc, 5sc]x3 (42)
r9-14: sc around (42)
r15: 22sc, 3x inc flo, 17sc (45)
r16: 23sc, 4x inc, 18sc (49)
r17: sc around (49)
Make 4 extra sc1, move marker
r18: dec, 21sc, dec, 22sc, dec (46)
r19: 19sc, 4x dec, 19sc (42)
r20: sc around (42)
r21: dec, 13sc, 6x dec, 13sc, dec (34)
r22: sc around (34)
Make 1 extra sc, move marker

Front legs (make 2)

r23: dec, 9sc, 6x dec, 9sc, dec (26)

r24: sc around (26)
r25: 7sc, 6x dec, 7sc (20)

r1: 6sc in magic ring (6)

r26: 7sc, 7hdc, 6sc (20)

r2: *inc* (12)

r27: 7sc, 7hdc, 6sc (20)

r3: *1sc, inc* (18)

r28: 8sc, 7hdc, 5sc (20)

r4: *2sc, inc* (24)

r29: 8sc, 7hdc, 5sc (20)

r5: sc around blo (24)

r30: 9sc, 7hdc, 4sc (20)

r6: 10sc, 2x dec, 10sc (22)

Join with a sl st and bind off. Leave a tail for sewing.

r7: sc around (22)

r8: 9sc, 2x dec, 9sc (20)

See instructions on page 2

r9: sc around (20)

Ears (make 2)

r10: 8sc, 2x dec, 8sc (18)

Start stuffing; keep stuffing as you go.
r11-12: sc around (18)

r1: 6sc in magic ring (6)

r13: *7sc, dec* (16)

r2: *1sc, inc* (9)

r14-16: sc around (16)

r3: sc around (9)

r17: *6sc, dec* (14)

r4: *2sc, inc* (12)

r18-30: sc around (14)

r5: sc around (12)

r31: *5sc, dec* (12)

r6: *3sc, inc* (15)

r32: *2sc, dec* (9)

r7: sc around (15)

Join with a sl st and bind off. Leave a tail for sewing.

r8-9: 3sc, 3hdc, 3dc, 3hdc, 3sc (15)

Fold the ear flat and sc both sides of the opening together. Join with a sl
st and bind off. Leave a tail for sewing.

Torso
r1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
r2: *inc* (12)
r3: *1sc, inc* (18)
r4: *2sc, inc* (24)
r5: *3sc, inc* (30)

r6-13: sc around (30)

Start stuffing; keep stuffing as you go.

r14: *3sc, dec* (24)

r11-12: sc around (18)

r15: sc around (24)

r13: *7sc, dec* (16)

r16: *3sc, inc* (30)

r14-15: sc around (16)

r17: sc around (30)

r16: *6sc, dec* (14)

Join with a sl st and bind off. Leave a tail for sewing.

r17-19: sc around (14)

r20: 2sc, 2x dec blo, 4sc, inc, 3sc (13)
r21: 2sc, dec, 5sc, inc, 3sc (13)
r22: 2sc, inc flo, 5sc, dec, 3sc (13)
r23: 2sc, 2x inc, 4sc, dec, 3sc (14)
r24: 4sc, 2x inc, 5sc, 2x inc, 1sc (18)
r25: 4sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 5sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 1sc (22)
r26: 4sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 5sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 1sc (26)
r27-28: sc around (26)
Join with a sl st and bind off.

Hind legs (make 2)

r1: 6sc in magic ring
r2: *inc* (12)
r3: *1sc, inc* (18)
r4: *2sc, inc* (24)
r5: sc around blo (24)
r6: 10sc, 2x dec, 10sc (22)
r7: sc around (22)
r8: 9sc, 2x dec, 9sc (20)
r9: sc around (20)
r10: 8sc, 2x dec, 8sc (18)

Line up the two hind legs next to eachother with the toes pointing the

r29: sc around (42)

same way. I usually stick a needle through both legs to keep them to-

r30: *5sc, dec* (36)

gether while I work the join. Join a new yarn and sc the 5 middle stitch-

r31: *4sc, dec* (30)

es where the legs touch eachother together, starting at the front of the

Continue to stuff the upper legs and hindquarters as you go. Make sure

legs and ending at the back.

to stuff the knees firmly so the shaping pops out nicely.

Start the first row for the hindquarters using the 21 unworked stitches

r32: *3sc, dec* (24)

of each leg, making one round of 42 sc together. Ignore the 5 middle

r33: *2sc, dec* (18)

stitches from now on and treat the two legs joined together as one

r34: *1sc, dec* (12)

round.

r35: *dec* (6)

Join with a sl st and bind off. Sew the remaining hole closed and weave
the thread through the piece to hide it.

Sample join done in contrasting color for claritys sake; on the real
amigurumi you should do this in the same color as the rest of the pony.

Optional Parts
Pegasus folded wings (make 2)

Unicorn horn
r1: 4sc in magic ring (4)
r2: *1sc, inc* (6)
r3-5: sc around (6)

r1: 6sc in magic ring (6)

r6: *2sc, inc* (8)

r2: *1sc, inc* (9)

r7-9: sc around (8)

r3: sc around (9)

r10: *3sc, inc* (10)

r4: *2sc, inc* (12)

r11-13: sc around (10)

r5: sc around (12)

Join with a sl st and bind off. Leave a tail for sewing. Stuff the horn.

r6: *3sc, inc* (15)

r7-9: sc around (15)
r10: *3sc, dec* (12)
r11: sc around (12)
r12: *1sc, dec* (8)
Fold the wing flat and sc both sides of the opening together. Join with a
sl st and bind off. Leave a tail for sewing.

Assembly

4) Grab a piece of leftover yarn in the same color as your pony and
thread it onto a needle. Insert it above the snout, in the rightmost

1) Stuff the torso and sew it onto the hind legs.

front loop inc you did in round 15 of the head (identifiable by a small

2) Sew the front legs to the torso. Place them to the sides of the torso,

bar behind the stitch), and pull the needle through to the back of the

not under it. Pin them down before sewing to check the exact position;

neck. Thread the needle on the other end of the yarn and pull that one

your pony should be able to stand on all four legs with minimal wob-

through the leftmost frontloop inc stitch all the way to the back, coming

bling.

out one stitch apart from the previous thread.

3) Sew the head onto the torso. When youve got about of the neck

Now push the crease where the snout forms inward with your finger so

sewn down, squeeze in some more stuffing so the neck will stay firm

it gets more sharply defined. With your finger still keeping the snout in

and upright. The lowest point of the neck should align roughly with the

position, firmly pull the two threads at the back and knot them together

second round of the torso.

to secure this shaping.

5) Sew the ears onto the head. Mind the placing, theyre a lot further to
the back than youd think.

6) If required for your pony, sew the wings onto the back just behind
the neck or unicorn horn onto the forehead.

Finishing

Its commonly referred to as iron-on fabric, the stuff that you use to
fix holes in clothing. It should be available in any store that sells sewing

So, now that all the crocheting and sewing is done and you have your

supplies, maybe even some local craft stores.

base pony, its time to give it some personality. Its pretty undoable to

The surface has a nice structure to draw or paint on, and the hot-glue

make a step-by-step guide for this part since every pony has a different

layer on the back keeps the fabric together so you can cut out tiny

hairstyle, cutie mark and eyes, so instead Ill give an overview on how

pieces without any fear of fraying.

to apply some common amigurumi embelishment techniques to your

Paint the eyes and cutie mark (some creativity required here, but

pony.

theres plenty of big vector images on the internet you can use as
examples) and cut them out when done.

Eyes and cutie mark

My preferred method for very stylized eyes like those of the ponies is to
paint them onto this stuff:

Tack them into place with some glue first before ironing, so youre sure
you have them in the right place.
If youre planning to secure them further by ironing them, make a test
piece first. Different kinds of paint can interact differently with heat;
you dont want your paint to crack or smudge onto the crocheted fabric. Paint a little test piece and iron it onto a crocheted swatch to see if
youre okay. You may have to put a piece of cotton like a handkerchief

or tea towel over the painted parts so the hot iron doesnt come directly

For manes, I use a combination of two techniques.

into contact with them.

First one is the fringe method. This one is useful if you need a large
After this, embroider the nostrils and mouth with a color slightly darker

stretch of hair in a single color without any funky styling. For example,

than the ponys base color and your face is done.

I use this method for Fluttershys mane, which is pretty straightforward. Once you have all the strands hooked together as explained in the

This is the method I use, but if you have another one yourself, go

linked tutorial, sew the hair onto the pony in a straight line from the top

ahead! Some people prefer to make eyes with felt, or print out the eyes

of the head to about halfway down the neck.

on printable fabric (which sadly I cant find so I cant try it out), or use
fabric markers instead of paint. So go ahead and experiment, the skys

If you need more control over individual strand placement, I recom-

the limit!

mend the latch hook method. Cut some yarn into same-length pieces
and attach them one by one with your crochet hook. This one is useful

Mane and tail

For the tail, cut the yarn into a large amount of small strings of the
same size (each string twice the length of the tail), tie them together in
the middle with a tight knot and sew this bundle onto the hindquarters
of the pony.
If youre unsure about the length, always overestimate! Its easier to cut
off a bit than to make it longer once its cut.

for small stretches of hair like bangs, or multicolored manes like the
Rainbow Dash Im making here:

A last method I use for ponies with incredibly curly hair, like Pinkie Pie
for example, is to make a bunch of little curly tentacles instead of using single yarn strands. You make these by crocheting a chain of 60-70
ch stitches (you can experiment with length, since its dependant on
yarn weight) and crochet back along the chain, making 3 sc in each ch
st. Make a bunch of these chains and sew them onto the head for curly
manes.

And thats all I know about ponies. I wish you good luck and lots of fun
with making your own!

Design, text and photos Leyla Stormrage / Critical Knits.

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