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Standards
A well-constructed fitting dart should:
Be directed toward the body curve.
Usually end to 1 inch from the fullest
part of the body curve.
Be tapered so it is smooth and free of
puckers.
Be even and smooth in appearance.
Be pressed before being crossed by
another line of stitching, and after the
garment has been fitted. Uncut
horizontal darts are usually pressed
down; uncut vertical darts are usually
pressed so the fold is toward the center
front or center back.
Have threads secured at both ends by
tying a knot, lock stitching, or
backstitching (use only on medium to
heavy fabric or in seamline).
General Rules
There are a few general rules that will help
you understand what darts are and how best
to handle them during the construction of a
garment.
The wider the dart base, the more
fullness it will provide to the body
curve. For example, a large bust will
require a wider dart base.
Figure 1
Figure 2
Marking
Darts may be marked by using dressmakers
tracing paper and wheel, tailors tacks, chalk or
soap slivers, marking pencils or pens, pins, or
short snips. The method used will depend on the
fabric and your skill. Always check the marking
method on the fabric scrap. Be sure it will wash
out and does not damage the fabric. (Figure 3)
Figure 5
Figure 3
Sewing
Fold dart in the center on the fold line. Pin baste
or hand baste. Usually darts are stitched from the
wide end to the narrow end. On a double-pointed
dart, start your stitching at the widest part and
stitch to each end. Be sure that the last few
stitches are on the very edge of the fold of the
dart. (Figure 4)
Figure 6
Finishing
After stitching darts, be sure to secure the ends
by tying a knot, lock-stitching (running off
fabric about -inch), backstitching (use only on
medium to heavy fabric or in seamline), or leave
a length of thread and run it back into your
stitching. Backstitching requires a lot of practice
and skill. It is not recommended for the average
sewer. Lock-stitching is only recommended
when the threads are protected and will not
experience very much wear, i.e., a lined
garment. (Figure 7)
Figure 4
Fitting
Since darts are part of the pattern design to fit a
garment to the body, be sure they are correctly
positioned on the figure. Darts should be
directed toward the fullest part of the body
curve. If you have a large body curve, two small
darts will usually fit better than one large dart.
Always check dart placement and make any
necessary adjustments before permanently
stitching and pressing.
How to Lower/Raise Darts
On the garment or the pattern (when patternfitting), mark the bust point with a pin. Remove
pin basting or dart stitching. Use the pattern to
re-mark the dart, lowering or raising it exactly
Figure 7
Pressing
Figure 10
Hint:
By pressing darts in the opposite
direction first, you will get a sharper
pressing of the dart line.
To prevent a ridge showing on the right
side from pressing, slip paper between
the garment and the dart. (Figure 8)
Figure 11
Figure 8
TYPES OF DARTS
Figure 12
Figure 13
Figure 9
Standard
Well-constructed ease will:
Have fullness slightly visible, but no
gathers.
Be evenly distributed along marked
area.
How to Ease:
Ease can usually be handled by using machine
basting, or pin basting right at the line of
stitching. If you are using machine basting, pull
the thread until the two edges are the same
length. Distribute the ease. Pin at frequent
intervals (insert pin right at seamline) keeping
the eased seam edge on top. Stitch, removing
pins as you sew.
Figure 14
CONTROLLING FULLNESS
EASING AND GATHERING
Easing and gathering are used to provide and/or
control fullness when joining one piece that is
longer than another piece. The primary
difference between them is in the amount of
fullness. Easing relates to only a small amount
of fullness and gathering involves more fullness.
Ease
Easing is required in a number of situations on a
variety of pattern pieces. It is often done along a
princess seam, at the shoulder seam, when
attaching a skirt to a waistband, adjusting
fullness in a flared hem or a set-in sleeve.
(Figure 15)
Figure 15
Figure 16
Figure 17
How to Gather:
Select the desired method of controlling
fullness.
Match pattern markings and seamlines
of garment pieces by pinning along
stitching line on the side of the fullness.
Between each set of markings, pull on
the bobbin thread or cord for fullness.
Distribute evenly using fingernail or pin.
Secure long threads by wrapping them
around a pin. When sufficient gathering
has been achieved, add additional pins
(right at the stitching line), as needed.
Machine baste on the seamline (gathered
side up), removing pins as you come to
them.
Check to see that the gathers are evenly
distributed as you sew.
Stitch on top of machine basting with a
permanent stitch.
Figure 18
PLEATS
Marking
When marking pleats you will need to mark the
foldline, roll line, and placement line. Use the
marking method most suitable for your fabric.
Pressing
Pressing is critical for all garments. Even on
unpressed pleated garments, press pleats down
about one inch beginning at the top. On
garments with pressed down pleats:
Support overhanging fabric so pleats can
be kept on grain.
Slip paper underneath pleat to prevent
press marks.
Press on right and wrong side of pleats.
Be sure the folds are sharp when you
complete pressing.
Heavier or slippery fabrics may require
basting to hold in place for pressing.
Fitting
As always, it is important that you carefully
check the fit of pleats before permanently
stitching and pressing. If there are pleats on
either side of the center front or center back, be
sure they are balanced on each side in relation to
the area.
A pleated skirt design should hang straight from
the hipline unless it is a tapered pleat design
line. Remember to allow for some ease at the
waistline when fitting pleats.
Types of Pleats
Knife or Side are flat and are turned
to one side, usually right to left on the
outside of garment. They are used in
kilts, skirts, and on shoulders of bodices.
Box are two straight pleats with folds
turned away from each other. They are
used in skirts, dresses, shirts, and
jackets.
Inverted are two straight pleats with
folds turned toward each other. They
meet in the center and are used primarily
in skirts.
Accordion are narrow pleats at the top
and radiate to a wider width at the
bottom. They are not stitched down and
are used in skirts, sleeve designs, and
lingerie. (Figure 19)
SHIRRING
Shirring is created by rows of stitching that is
gathered. On very lightweight fabrics, it is
sometimes called decorative gathering. Shirring
is used primarily on bodices and cuffs of
garments. When stitching, be sure the rows of
machine stitching are even and parallel. The
distance between the rows of stitching is your
choice.
Shirring may be done by using basting stitches, a
gathering attachment, or with elastic thread. If
using elastic thread, be sure to hand wind the
elastic thread onto the bobbin only stretching it
slightly as it is wound. Stitch all seams in the
part of the garment that will be shirred, except
one. Next stitch using the elastic thread and the
longest stitch on your sewing machine. Stitch
across the ends of the elastic thread at the
seamlines. Join seam of the garment. (Figure 20)
Figure 19
Hemming
You usually hem garments with pleats before the
pleats are pressed. In bulky fabrics, remember to
open and grade the seams in the hem, then clip
above the hem if the seam is pressed to one side.
Figure 20
Figure 24
Standard
A well-constructed tuck will:
Provide relaxed but defined fullness.
Be neat in appearance.
How to Make Tucks:
Mark tucks with the appropriate method
for your fabric.
Remove the pattern. Fold on the
designated pattern marks and stitch.
(Figure 25)
Figure 21
Types of Tucks
Pin Tucks the small ones (right on the
fold of the fabric).
Spaced Tucks have spaces between
the stitching. (Figure 26)
Figure 22
Figure 26
Figure 23
TUCKS
A tuck is a stitched fold of fabric. Tucks are
primarily used for decoration. However, released
Figure 27
Figure 28
Other Suggestions
Tucks may have yarn or cord pulled
through them to create a different look.
Another decorative idea is to tuck
lengthwise, then to tuck crosswise
(across the first tuck). This is especially
nice for pin tucking or for very narrow
tucks. (Figure 29)
Figure 31
Figure 29
Figure 32
Figure 30
Permission to use granted by Institute of Food & Agriculture
Sciences, University of Florida, Gainesville, Florida.
Prepared by Nadine Hackler, Associate Professor Extension
Clothing Specialist (retired)
Revised by:
Marjorie M. Baker, M.S.
Extension Associate for Textiles and Clothing
Copyright 2007 for materials developed by University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension. This publication may be reproduced in portions or its entirety
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