THE TRAINING SHOE

This chapter describes the production of patterns for a mens

training jogging shoe. There is an almost infinite number of
variations in trainer design, and you can of course modify
this basic style to suit your own ideas.
In fact, what in Britain are known as Trainers
covers a wide range of sports/leisure footwear. The
pattern produced here is most suited to the light
weight jogging type of shoe.
Its upper (in the body) would be made from combined material, e.g. woven synthetic/foam/lining
with a suede split mudguard/toecap and outside
counter. The small back facing an side flash
(side stripe) would be from unsupported PVC.
Producing the patterns as a wholecut (as is done here) inolves a certain amount of springing. This distorsion may
lead to prolems in lasting and/or a distorted appearence in the finished shoe. If this happens, the pattern and if
necessary the design, should be modified so that springing can be avoided. This can be done for example by making
the upper construction a three-quarter cut, a seam-to-toe, or as a vamp and quarter.

The back height on this pattern has been deliberately kept lower than that on many present day training shoes to
avoid the risk of damaging the back of the ankle in the achilles tendon region.

1.

The first step is to draw round the mean forme. You will find the production of this particular training
shoe standard easier if you make a special mean forme, based on the inside rather the outside forme.

Note: instead of follwing the usual procedure of drawing round the outside forme and then laying the inside over
and pivoting it to follow the spring of the outside, the opposite is done; so that the outside forme is sprung down
deadened, to follow the inside. This will be of particular help when carrying out step 4.

Mean Forme
Size 8
L567
4 june 93

2.

Mark the following reference points:-

seat corner

tip of toe

CP

1/5 of Standatrd Last Length measured upwards from S i.e. 2 3/ 16 (55mm) on a size 8
I

1
V V
B
A

CP

U
S

5/8 (15 mm) above CP This is the back high position and in 1/8 (3 mm) higher than the
traditional shoe height because of the thick sock inserted after lasting and because of the
effects of a padded collarbeing sewn to the topline.

1/4 Standard Last Length from S

1/5 Standard Last Length measured vertically from U + 1/8 (3 mm) i.e. 2 5/ 16 (58 mm) on
size 8.
This is the under ankle height position.

of Standard Last Length measured forwards from CP i.e. 8 (210 mm) on a size 8.

(6 mm) forwards of V.

i.e. 2 (70 mm) on a size 8

Standard Last Length + (6mm) from V i.e. 3 (90 mm) on a size 8.

3.

Draw in feint constrution lines from B passing through A and a further line joining I to U
I

1
V V
B
A

CP

U
S

4.

The crease line should now be drawn in, but

is done differently from other patterns.
From a point (6 mm) below I on line
I-U, draw a feint line (a) passing through
the top pf the toe. Then draw another
line (b) passing through V. The actual
crease line (c then bisects these lines.

a
c
b

Having a crease line which coivers the whole

length of the front means that the majority of
parts will lie flat against each other. This is
useful for pre-closing assembly and for fitting
upers into work holders used for computer
stitching.

5.

creas

It can be seen in the diagram opposite that a

portion of the toe area now stands above the
topline. This must now be sprung down,
otherwise there will not be enough lasting
allowance at the toe.

pivot

Select the pivot point as shown, midway

through the forme in line with where the
crease line cuts through the forme edge.
place trhe mean forme over your drawing to
carry out this operation and pivot down untill
the top of the toe lies on the crease line.Point
T will of course now be in line the new position
and the old line can be rubbed out.
The slight dip in the bottom edge caused by
springing the toe down should be filled in to
leave a smooth line.

pivot

e line

6.

Sketch in the top line shape.

1
V V

creas

e line

B
CP

This should start at 90 to the crease line in point V position.

The widest point in this area is 3/ 8 (10 mm)

from the crease line and at the top of the facing area, it is 1/ 8 (3 mm) from the creaese line. The line continues
passing through point A and on to B. The topline has been curved upwards between A and B to give the
appearence of a cut-away tab, but this is purely a design feature and may be omitted.
Note - on many trainers the back is raised into a full tab at point B, but this risks irritating the back of
the ankle in wear.

7.

Add 5/ 8 (15 mm) lasting allowance to the bottom edge

1
V V

e line

creas

B
CP

8.

Create the outsdide counter shape. this passes (6 mm) beyond point U at the bottom and meets the back
curve at the counter point.
The back tab facing wich lies above the counter, should also be drawn. It must be of sufficient width
at its narrowest point, i.e. CP, to hide the zig-zagged backseam.

37 mm

9.

Draw in the facing shape. This is (18mm) wide along the sides and (12 mm) at the front.

I
1
V V

crease

line

37 mm

B
CP

10.

Mark the eyelet positions.

These are 11/ 16 (17 mm) apart in this case.

11.

Sketch in the mudguard shape.

line.

This starts 1 1/ 8 (28 mm) up the front from point T. at 90 to the cease

At the rear end, it crosses over the facing to create a strengthener for the bottom lace hole. This also serves
to increase lateral support for the runner in wear.
I
1
V V

ine
crease l

37 mm

CP

U
S

12.

Add 1/ 8 (3 mm) allowance at point S and

1 mm at CP. Join these points together to
make a fold line for the outside counter.
Continue this straight line so that it meets
up with the lasting allowance.

CP

Adjust the back curve of the upper if necessary, between CP and S so that it lies inside
the fold line of the outside counter. Also,
continue the curve downards to meet the
lasting edge.

13.

Sketch in the flash. In the diagram, the flash is 1 13/ 16 (20 mm) away from the topline at its narrowest
point. The widest of the strip is 3/ 8 (10 mm).
I
1
V V

crease

line

37 mm

CP

14.

Mark the tongue shape. Start this at 90 to the crease line, 1 (25 mm) beyond the corner of the facing (point
I) and end it (20 mm) forwards of point V. Make it approximately 1 (45 mm) wide at its widest
point.

2 0 mm

1
V

2 5 mm

e line
creas
45mm

The process is now complete, so construction lines can be rubbed out and the standard cut out.

Trainer Standard
Size 8
M9798
15 Nov 93
J Barry

Remember mark on approriate details such as Description, Size, Pattern/Last No., Date, and your name.

PRODUCING TRAINER SHOE SECTIONAL PATTERNS

1.

Body
Lay the crease line of the Standard to the fold line of the paper, as shown in the diagram.

Trainer Standa
rd
Size 8
M9798
15 Nov 93
J Barry

Mark round the topline

Mark round the toe cap/mudguard line

Mark down the back curve of the upper

(Not included outside counter fold line)

Mark round the outside counter line

Mark through the side flash lines

Mark round the lasting edge

Cut out the pattern, also making a 5/ 16

(8 mm) cut back around the toe cap and
outside counter areas to help lasting

Cut in the necessary stitch

markers lines

Body

2.

Toe Cap/Mudguard
There are no allowances to this section, so simply lay the crease line of the standard to the fold line of
the paper, mak round the section and cut out.

Dont forget to insert a pricker for the bottom

eyelet.
Mudguard

3.

Facing
This again is cut from folded paper, without allowances.The lace positions must of course be
marked, together with a mark of the positioning of the strengthener for the bottom lace hole.

facing

4.

Side Flash

4.

Lay the standard to a single (not folded)

piece of paper and mark through the
outline of the side flash
Flash

Add 5/ 16 (8 mm) underlay to the rear end

Add (12 mm) underlay to the front
ends

Tongue
Lay the crease line of standard to
folded paper and mark round the
tongue section. Also, trace
round the throat of the upper/
facing to create a location mark.

6.

Tongue

Out side Counter

Lay the outside counter fold line
of the standard to folded paper
as shown.

Trainer Standard
Size 8
M9798
15 Nov 93
J Barry

Mark round the outside counter

section and cut a V in the centre of the lasting edge.

10

This is the completed outside counter pattern.

Outside Counter

4.

Back Facing
To cut the back tab facing, lay the standard against the fold of the paper as shown and mark round the
section. Continue the bottom curve of the section so that it passes underneath the outside counter shape.

Trai n
e

r Sta
n
Si ze dard
8
M97
15 N 98
ov
J Ba 93
rry

This is the completed pattern for the back facing.

Back facing

11

Collar/Quarter Lining

l la

30

co

mm

Mark the collar position onto the standard, the width is 1 3/ 16 (30 mm) away from the topline. The collar
line in this design is brought down to the bottom edge, about half way round to form a quarter lining. The
collar fold line is from B to a point 1/ 8 (3 mm) inside the bottom corner of the back curve (not outside)
counter).

coll
a

collar folded
line

To cut the collar pattern:-

la

30

l
co

mm

Lay the collar old line to the folde of the paper, mark through to the collar lines, mark the bottom edge of
the standard and the topline as far as the collar marks.

co lla r fol de d lin e

co l l a

4.

12

Note-. before cutting out, it is necessary to spring the font section of the collar. This can be
done as shown in the diagram. The total distance sprung down at the end of the collar is 5/16 (8 mm), but
this is done in two stages. Half the amountis sprung dpown from the first pivot point and the rest from
the sewcond one.
You should then finsh up with lines in the position of those marked new in the diagram.
The amount of springing down needeb will vary according to the nature of the collar material used and
the amount of foam padding inserted. As an alternative to springing, shorteting the collar can achieve
same effect in some cases.

g in
ori
w

ne

2nd pivot point

al

1st pivot point

collar

On the lasting edge of the collar/quarter lining, make the edge either scalloped, cut back, or with a large
V in the centre, to a depth of 5/ 16 (8 mm).

Collar

This completes the sectionall patterns. Make sure every section is marked with the relevant information such as
Description, Size, Pattern/Last no. and Date.

13

THE BASKETBALL BOOT

The basketball boot or high top sports shoe as it is also known, varies
considerably in upper construction from one style to another
Our example shown here is made in a relatively simple
way compared to many on the market at the present
time.
Apart from tre greater number of decorative pieces
sewn on the upper, boots may also have:-

a sprung on mudguard to reduce pleats in toe lasting

a V seam in the lower part of the outside counter to give a closer fit to the last

upper sections sewn onto a felt base, with another thin stuck-on lining attached during closing

a zig-zagged backseam with backstrap (no outside counter) - to give a closer fitting back

a complex tongue, with sprung-on section, and separate lining and foam padding

Produccing patterns for a complex upper such as a basketball boot is not a job for a novice pattern cutter. If you
have not already done so it would be advisable to produce the trainer pattern before attempting this style. A mean
forme wich is based on the spring of the inside forme rather than the outside, should be used.

1.

Mark the joint/tread position on your mean forme.

The ideal way is to first mark the position on both inside and outside formes whilst still on the last and
then mark the average of these on the mean forme. Alternatively, lay the mean forme against the last
to mark the position.

2.

Draw a base line and vertical.

Take a sufficiently latge piece of paper to allow for a boot standard. Then draw a horizontal base line
with a vertical at one end to the height of the heel pitch of the last.

14

3.

Draw round the mean forme. Position the joint on the base line and the seat on the vertical pitch height
mark.

4.

Mark the follwing reference points:S

seat corner

CP

1/5 of Standatrd Last Length measured upwards from S i.e. 2 3/ 16 (55mm) on a size 8

of Standard Last Length measured forwards from CP i.e. 8 (210 mm) on a size 8

/ 8 (10 mm) forwards from V

Standard Last Length from V i.e. 2 (70 mm) on a size 8

(12 mm) above I

T
I

1
V

CP

S
J

4.

Mark the the long heel and short heel lines. The short heel is 8 above the long heel and is the same length
as the long heel

5.

Mark point M. This is half way along the short heel line

T
I
sh

he

ee

1
V

th
or

l on

el

CP

S
J

15

7.

Draw in the vertical line. This is at 90 to the base line passing through point M.
54 mm

60 mm

T
I

8.

90

Mark a point 5 1/ 8 (130 mm) up the vertical from the bottom edge of the mean forme line and draw a
horizontal line extending 2 3/ 8 (60 mm) towards the back and 2 1/ 8 (54 mm) towards the front. this is the
top of leg line.
T
I

9.

10

Mark in a line up the cone (6 mm) in from

V and 5/ 8 (10 mm) in from I. This is to allow
space for lacing up.

mm

m
6m

back line

10.

Draw in the back line.

Join the rear of the top of leg line to the
seat corner points

CP

The outside counter fold line is 1 mm away at

CP and 1/ 8 (3 mm) away at S.

outside counter
fold line

90

16

11.

Draw in the crease line in the same way as wa done for the trainer, with feint lines from 1/ 8 (3 mm) below
I through V and through the top of the toe. The actual crease line then bisects these lines.
Remember also to pivot down the toe area wich lies above the new crease line (as was done before on
the trainer).

T
I

12.

Draw a feint line joining T to X where the vertical line crosses the forme and mark point F 1 1/ 8 (29 mm)
down this line from T.

13.

Sketch in the mudguard shape.

-

start 1 (25 mm) up from the toe at 90 to the crease line. It becomes 1 3/ 16 (30 mm) deep at it widest
point, with a (12 mm) deep dip before it raises to make a facing. The facing finishes
approximately at right angles to the facing line.

Note: measurements for the mudguard will vary according

to the toe depth of the last being used.

m
15 m

30

mm

m
25 m

30 mm

17

14.

Sketch the throat shape. Start from V at 90 to the crease line. The throat is 9/ 16 (15 mm) wide where
it meets the facing.

15.

Draw the quarter and topline shape.

-

the dip in the quarter where it crosses point F is 3/ 16 (5 mm) wide.

the topline rises (6 mm) above the horizontal line in the centre (over the vertical line).

T
I

CP

16.

Mark a line for the position of the zig-zag seam joining vamp to quarters.
this is parallel to T - X, 5/ 8 (15 mm) away

T
I

g
-za
zig

15

CP

mm

ge
d
S

X
128 mm

18

17.

Sketch the outside counter shape.

-

from CP to 5 (128 mm) forwards of S.

Sketch in the two part collar shape and the back facing.
-

the collar is 1 (38 mm) away from the front edge of the boot leg.

thew collar ia divided mid-way up

the back facing starts 1 3/ 8 (35 mm)

away from the back line where it is
16 mm deep (approximately 5/ 8

38 mm

m
m
15

16 mm

mm

X
128 mm

16.

Draw lines for the side flash, parallel to the

zig-zag line. as shown.
also draw the eyelet facing line 13/ 16
(20 mm) away from the top edge.

T
I

20

mm

g
-za
zig
ge
d

19

20.

Add 5/ 8 (15 mm) lasting allowance to the bottom edge.

-

also mark the eyelet positions.

mark the tongue shape wich starts 6 (152 mm)

from V and is2 1/ 4 (57 mm) at its widest point
and finishes 5/ 16 (8 mm) beyond the throat.

152

mm

57 mm

g
-za
zig
ge

d
wance

lasting allo

21.

Cut the standard out, marking on details of

-

Description

Size

Pattern No./Description

Date

Name

zig

ll Boot
Basketba
Size 8
t
W845 Las
3
9
h
c
r
a
21 M
C. Berry

g
za
ge
d

N.B. This type of standard with a straight back is only suitable for relatively low boots. Higher boots require
a curved back follwing the shape of the foot/ankle.

20

PRODUCING MENS BASKETBALL BOOT SECTIONAL PATTERNS

Before starting these patterns, mark a 5/ 16 (8 mm) cut-back section along the lasting edge in the areas where the
mudguard and outside counters lie,

N.ote: do not cut this area off

g
-za
zig
ge

ll Boot
Basketba
8
e
z
i
S
t
W845 Las
3
9
h
rc
a
M
21
y
r
r
e
B
C.

d
lasting allo

wance

cut back

1.

Vamp
Lay the crease line of the Standard to the fold of the paper
-

mark around the throat, as far as the

zig-zag seam line

mark through the zig-zag seam line

mark around the lasting edge

mark through mudguard, side facing

and outside counter lines

vamp

Cut the section out, including stitch marks for

mudguard, side facing and ourside counter
-

also make a 5/ 16 (8 mm) cut back in the

section of the lasting edge covered by
the mudguard and outside counter following the cut back line marked on the
standard

gged

zig-za

21

zig-z
a

gge

2.

Mudguard/Toe Cap

Lay the crease line of the standard to the fold of

the paper
-

mark around the mudguard/toe

cap shape

mark around the lasting edge

prick through the eyelet marks

Mudguard

Cut the section out, including the

centre of the toe

4.

Quarter
Lay the back line of the
standard to the fold of he
paper
-

mark through the

/ 16 (8mm) cut
back line
5

zi g
-z a

mark through the zigzag seam line

mark from the top of the zigzag seam along the top of the
quarter to the collar line, then
mark through the line showing the
outline of the collar

gge

Quarter

Cut the section out including marks for facings, outside counter and prickers for eyelets. For a more
economical pattern this section could be made as a single quarter with a zig-zagged backseam. This could
then be curved in at the bottom to follow the back of the shape of the last.

3.

Collar (lower section)

Lay the back line of the standard to the
fold of the paper.
-

mark through the lines showing the

lower section of the collar

add 5/ 16 (8 mm) underlay allowance

to the bottom edge.

includ stitch marks for the underlay

and back facing.

Collar/lower sction

22

Also cut the Collar (upper section) and Back Facing in the same way, again adding and underlay of 5/ 16
(8 mm) to the bottom edge. A pattern will also be required for the collar foam padding. Make this the
same size as the collar opening in the standard, less 1/ 8 (3 mm) all round, made as a whole cut to pass right
round tge back.

Back facing

Collar/upper section

N.ote - a small outward centre notch should be included in the top edge of the collar (upper section) to aid stitching
in the collar lining.

5.

Outside counter
Lay the outside counter fold line of the standard to the fold of the paper
mark through the outside counter line
mark along the lasting edg

Outside Counter

Cut the section out, including a large V in the centre of the lasting edge, 5/ 16 (8 mm) deep

6.

Eyelet Facing
Copy this from the standard onto single paper, adding
/ 16 (8 mm) underlay allowance at each end

7.

in
fac

include prickers for the eyelets.

Side Flash
Copy from the standard onto single paper, adding
/ 16 )8 mm) underlay to the bottom edge

include eyelet pricker and underlay stitch

mark

23

Side flash

8.

Collar Lining

Mark the front edge of the lining on the standard; as shown an also mark he lining fold line, 1/ 8 (3 mm)
in from the back line and lay this to the fold of the paper
-

mark round the section and cut out a 5/ 16 (8 mm) deep scallop section in the lasting edge
and a small centre notch in the top edge. In some cases the collar lining will need a further
shortening by moving back the whole front edge to reduce creasing. This should be checked when
pattern trials are produced.

In practice this lining will not reach to the bottom

once the foam padding is inserted during closing.

lining
fold line

zig
g
za
ge

ll Boot
Basketba
Size 8
W845 Last
93
21 March
C. Berry

Collar lining

lining

9.

Tongue
Lay the crease line of the standard to the folded paper
-

mark through the tongue outline and round the throat opening

cut out the section including a location mark for positioning

in the throat

Tongue

The sectional patterns for this basketball boot are now complete, Make sure each pattern is marked with details
of:description
Extracted from
size
THE PATTERN CUTERS HANDBOOK
pattern/last no.
Michael H. Sharp
date
your name
Published by The Footwear OPEN TECH Unit

Accrington and Rossendale College

24