How To Build - The Leopard Family in 1-35

HOW TO
BUILD...
THE
LEOPARD
FAMILY IN 1:35
SPENCER POLLARD
INCLUDES
SEVEN COMPLETE BUILDS PLUS:
Full-sized walk-rounds
In-service references
Step by step tutorials: construction,
painting and weathering
How to detail your model:
aftermarket and from scratch
Complete list of all available 1:35
kits, conversions and accessories
From the publishers of Tamiya Model Magazine International,

Model Military International, Model Airplane International
and Military Illustrated Modeller
p 01 Cover Leopard.indd 1
FEATURING THE WORK OF
Spencer Pollard, Marcel Jussen,

Brett Green and John Murphy
30/07/2014 19:03
FORWARD
How to build... THE LEOPARD FAMILY IN 1:35
nyone that follows the modelling world

will notice how often a particular subject
becomes flavour of the month, and how,
once that happens, a large number of kits
from a variety of different manufacturers, will appear
at the same time.
The Leopard is a great example of how this can
result in lots of new kits being released, seemingly,
out of the blue.
Though there have always been kits of this vehicle
from the likes of Tamiya, Italeri and Revell, many of
these are based on older moulds and though the
second-generation Leopard 2 family sought favour
thanks to Tamiyas attentions and latterly, those
of HobbyBoss, the earlier Leopard 1 in its many
incarnations has been rather less popular.
Enter MENG and their 1A4. Released in a flurry
of excitement, this new kit was hoped to be the last
word on the subject, so when it appeared with odd
accuracy issues many still felt that the opportunity had
been missed and no more first-generation kits would
appear. Not so. Takom then released a MEXAS and
are due to look at other versions including the 1A5/
C2. MENG have also taken another look at their more
problematic issues in their kit and have reworked
them - much to the delight of the enthusiastic
modeller and so we may finally have a kit to match
the hopes and expectations of the market.
Given that we can now build virtually any
member of this family, it seemed like a good time
to bring together some cool features to show you
the modeller, how to build up a small collection
using readily available kits and accessories. In so
doing, we felt that each of the main versions could
be tackled and illustrate such things as straight
from the box assembly, painting and weathering,
detailing, aftermarket products, conversions and
scratchbuilding. Bringing all of these areas together
would then allow you to dig a little deeper into the
subject and find your own projects, using our ideas as
a guide to their completion. Do that and we are sure
that you will end up with a fine collection of one of the
best-looking vehicles ever seen on the battlefield.
It is with great pleasure then, that Id like to
introduce you to this new How To Build guide
dedicated to building the Leopard family in 1:35.
Alongside the models that Ive built for the book, I am
delighted to be able to bring together three features
from three of my favourite modellers: Marcel Jussen,
Brett Green and John Murphy. Each of them has
created a wonderful modelling feature for you to enjoy,
based around three distinctly different subjects. Id like
to thank them all for their efforts and state publically,
that this book would have been nowhere near as
good as I believe it is, without their help. Thanks guys!
This then, is How To Build The Leopard Family In
1:35. We hope you enjoy reading it, every bit as much
as we enjoyed putting it together!
Spencer Pollard, July 2014
Spencer Pollard
Spencer was born in Haverfordwest, South Wales in 1967. Having
been born into a military family (both his mother and father served
in the Royal Navy) it was not surprising to see him develop an
abiding interest in the military and thanks to that Fleet Air Arm
connection, aircraft, both full-size and in miniature. Having spent
many years building models as a hobby, Spencer was able to turn
a part-time passion into a full-time career, as he swapped a role in
the Civil Service for one in the Editors chair, taking over the reigns
of Military In Scale magazine in 1997. Sixteen years on, Spencer
changed direction once more as he joined the ADH team to become
their in-house model-maker, working on a wide range of models
both military and civilian. He spends downtime playing drums in a
rock-covers band, living in Shropshire with his wife Liz.
2 How to Build... The Leopard Family in 1:35
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CONTENTS
2
Page 4
Page 6
Page
Forward
Introduction
Chapter 1
From The Box: MENGs Leopard 1A3/4
Page
13
Chapter 2
Classic Plastic
Page
14
Chapter 3
Genietank by Marcel Jussen
Page
22
Chapter 4
The Next Generation
Page
34
Chapter 5
Now You See Me: Nets, Rags and Rubber Mats
Page
42
Chapter 6
In Detail: Leopard 2A6 by Rudi Meir
Page
46
Chapter 7
Denmarks Big Cat by John Murphy
Page
Page
Designed by Alex Hall
56
Chapter 9
Canadian Desert Cat by Brett Green
Page
68
Chapter 10
Used and Abused
First Published in the United Kingdom by:
ADH Publishing Ltd., Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane,

Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX
Telephone: 44 (0) 1525 222573
Fax: 44 (0) 1525 222574
Email: enquiries@adhpublishing.com
Website: www.adhpublishing.com
Chapter 8
The Canadian Leopard by Anthony Seward
Copyright 2014 ADH Publishing Ltd.
All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or

whole of any text or photographs without
written permission from the publisher is strictly
prohibited. While due care has been taken to
ensure the contents of this book are accurate,
the publisher cannot accept liability for errors.
52
Page
78
Chapter 11
In Detail: Leopard C2 Mexas by Anthony Sewards
80
Page 82
Page
Appendix
Final Thoughts
How to Build... The Leopard Family in 1:35 3
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INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
Cosfords Leopard
the perfect
backdrop for a
photo opportunity!
y very first 1:35 kit was

Italeris Leopard 1A4. I
seem to remember that
a friend of my mother
had bought the kit for their husband
and hed never built it. So knowing
that I built kits she gave it to me.
One week later it was done and my
abiding love affair with this family
of tanks had begun. But, despite
that interest and the desire to add
at least one more of these vehicles
to my collection, time and circumstance has always gotten in the way
and I never got around to it, despite
many inspiring moments during my
time as a modelmaker.
Over the years, Ive built
hundreds of models in 1:35,
leafing through countless books
and magazines for the inspiration
needed to kickstart the next big
project. Throughout that time there
have been many models that Ive
seen that have had the wow factor,
but perhaps two of the most memorable were Francois Verlindens
Leopard 1A4 and Flakpanzer
Gepard that he built for the Tamiya
catalogue and his own Verlinden
Way books. Both of these models
cemented a desire to recreate these

impressive vehicles, constructing
them in a way that reflected their
use in the huge Cold War exercises
that raged across the plains of
Northern Europe, bedecked as they
were in stowage and camouflage
netting, along with those colourful
friend or foe crosses that were so
easy to pick out against their drab
camouflage and dirty finishes.
Along with the hours spent
looking at these two models, it is
not easy to forget the impression
that a visit to a local show had on
such a young mind, keen to learn.
There, amongst the inevitable collection of Tigers and Shermans a
modeller had displayed the, then
very new, Italeri Leopard 2A4. It was
painted immaculately and covered
in the most wonderfully modelled
camouflage netting I had ever seen.
I was mesmerised! The name of the
modeller was not something that
was ever discovered, but that single
vehicle was enough to make me
want to build the Leopard 2A4. Little
did I know that it would take almost
thirty years before I would finally
build that vehicle in 1:35
Fast forward to 2012. Brett
Green and I were invited to
Edmonton in Canada to attend
their summer model show. As part
of the trip we were able to visit the
Lord Strathconas Horse (Royal
Canadians) Regiment in Edmonton
and examine their Leopards up
close. As soon as that first vehicle
rolled into the compound and I
could see those lines and hear
that engine, I was hooked! I knew
right then that I would have to build
at least one of these machines in
miniature and so when, last year,
Marcus Nicholls asked me to build
the Revell 2A4 for Tamiya Model
Magazine International, there
really was only ever going to be one
answer!
For the modeller keen to build the
Leopard in its many incarnations,
there are plenty of choices, from
Leopard 1, all the way through to
the awesome 2A6 and its derivatives. Add to those basic kits the
plethora of aftermarket conversions,
details and updates and the

budding enthusiast could keep
themselves busy for years!
This book is the result of a desire
to build a representative collection
of Leopards and in so doing, cover
most of the more popular variants
using kits that are readily available
to the modeller. It also allows us to
offer some variety in terms of colour
schemes and approach, with all of
the models built and painted differently. Combine the ideas together
and you will be able to tackle any
project and not just those seen here
or rather, thats the plan!
Though we have looked at
six different Leopards, we have
unashamedly concentrated much
of our effort on the Canadian C2
MEXAS. Though one of the oldest
vehicles in service based as it
was on a Leopard 1 this battlehardened machine showed what
was is possible when state of the
art upgrades are added to a tank
to make it as capable as far newer,
more sophisticated vehicles. Its
record in service and the upgrades
that were incrementally added to
the seventeen MEXAS that were
sent to Afghanistan makes for
a wonderfully flexible modelling
project, too; dust, dirt, scabbed-on
items of kit, damage, stowage and
a constantly evolving finish, make it
a perfect modern-day subject, that
can be approached in much the
same way that you would a WWII
subject. Indeed, thats exactly the
way I approached my model with
no compromises in terms of the
levels of dirt or stowed items, fixed
in place to add interest to this sleek,
modern, MBT.
Over the next eighty-odd pages
you will discover seven models
to enjoy: three, first-generation;
three, second-generation and one,
engineering vehicle. Each of these
has been built from readily available
kits, using easy to obtain accessories, tools and finishing products.
Along with the kits that we chose
to build, a decision was also made
to complete them in finishes that
were as realistic as possible.
Though there are many schools
4 Introduction
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Posed together, the

variations in design
and finish are there
for all to see.
A real Leopard C2
MEXAS in all of its
streamlined glory.
of thought regarding painting

and weathering, the models seen
in this book have been finished
with camouflage, markings and
weathering layers that we felt were
as realistic and natural as possible.
With so many images of the real
vehicles to hand, we felt confident
that by copying the real thing where
possible, the resulting models
would have a more coherent look
and as such, could be displayed
together without fear of one or more
standing out as being different from
the others.
We also tried to find ways to
make each model memorable
without being overblown. This was
achieved by using as many unique
features and set-ups as possible,
basing each one not only on actual
machines, but doing so with as
little in the way of aftermarket
products, as possible. For instance
the Leopard 2A4NL features the
distinctive rolled tarpaulins seen on

Dutch machines; the German A6M
is covered not only in tarpaulins, but
also camouflage netting and skirt
extensions and the MEXAS exhibits
dust layers copied from an actual
machine, rather than appearing
generic and an amalgamation of
many possible finishes. In doing
this, we hope that the simple ideas
that were chosen to complete each
model, would in combination, allow
as wide a group of modellers as
possible, the opportunity to build
similar models for themselves and
not force them to spend a huge
amount of additional money on top
of the cost of the basic kit. Though
some of the techniques are a little
more involved, there is nothing
within the pages of this book that
a modeller with a little experience,
couldnt at least attempt and at the
end of the process, create something similar for them self using
simple ideas, tools and materials

that are readily available. Quite
simply, this is a book for everyone
and not just the experts!
Alongside the builds, youll also
find some full-sized reference
features and a comprehensive list
of available kits and accessories
courtesy of Michael Shackleton and
his Leopard Club website. Both
of these inclusions is important
because we believe that this new
book should act as a portal through
which you can enter a wider modelling world full of other projects, that
you can embark upon. In fact, Im
already planning my next Leopard
builds as a result of all of the
information that Ive absorbed as a
result of putting this book together!
Maybe well publish part two, sometime in the future!
So this then is How To Build
The Leopard Family In 1:35. We
hope you enjoy it!
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CHAPTER 1 FROM THE BOX: MENGS 1A3/1A4
MENG 1:35 LEOPARD 1A3/4
here is no doubt that the

Leopard is flavour of the
month at the moment. For
many years we only had
the choice of the Tamiya or Italeri
kits from which to build this impressive vehicle. And then, several years
ago, the modelling world woke up
to the idea that this entire family
would be welcomed by the modelling world and within a short space
of time, we have been able to build
almost every one of the family
(including, thanks to the aftermarket
and resin kit manufacturers, the
engineer vehicles). MENG are one
the newest companies to walk this
path with their Leopard 1A3/A4, so
lets take a look at what we have.
FROM THE BOX:

MENGS 1A3/1A4
Italeris ancient Leopard is finally
replaced with a state-of-the-art
kit from the Far East. Spencer
Pollard shows you how to get the
best from it step by step
IN THE BOX
The first thing that strikes you
about MENG kits is the superb
packaging; I know its not the most
important factor in the success of
a kit, but it does help create the
impression of a quality product.
Open up the box and you are faced
with a collection of wonderfully
packaged plastic parts, excellent
instructions, photo-etched frets and
a superb full-colour painting guide
and decals, covering four individual
schemes. So far, so very good.
Across the board the quality
of the moulding and the levels
of detail is very good with plastic
parts that are sharp and entirely
flash-free. Sprue gates are kept to
a minimum and moulding seams
fine and easy to clean up. It is also
worth pointing out that the kit is
also broken down in a very straightforward manner and so the parts
count is kept to a minimum.
Digging deeper there are some
really pleasing features that push
this kit above and beyond those
already available. The kit skirts for
instance are beautifully detailed,
6 Chapter 1 - From The Box: MENGs 1A3/1A4
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replicating the dimpled surface
texture of the originals to a tee. I
was similarly impressed by the large
upper hull, its fine surface details
being well defined and as sharp as
one could wish for. The engine deck
is particularly noteworthy a choice of
fan inserts (one for the Greek option)
and etched cover adding
immeasurably to the illusion of reality.
Smaller details are
similarly impressive, the on-vehicle
tools scoring particularly well in
this regard. These are not only
well moulded and finely detailed,
they include a full set of clamps
that are fine enough to pass for
aftermarket additions, without any
of the additional work! Youll also
find a clear sprue that deals with
the periscopes, headlights and
searchlight lens, though rather
disappointingly, not the rear lights
which are moulded in situ as part of
the rear hull plate.
Though there is much to enjoy in
this kit, all is not completely perfect.
The first items to let the kit down are
the road wheels. These suffer from
rear faces that are completely the
wrong shape (looking to be fitted
with large drum brakes!) and then
hubs that are the too large inside
rims that are far too sharply defined.
Detail is soft too and though the
addition of dirt and staining does
much to hide the deficiencies on
the outer faces, it can do little to
hide the problems where they join
the swing arms. Speaking of which,
the swing arms are rather plain in
appearance, lacking the circular
depression and nipple where they
are bolted to the torsion bars, but
they do work allowing a degree
of movement that would be useful
should you wish to build a vignette/
diorama around your model.
The running gear is finished off
with a choice of 8 or 15 bolt sprockets and two vinyl track lengths or a
full set of individual plastic links. As
the detail was good enough, sag
was not a problem - and most of
the links would be hidden on the
completed model the vinyl tracks
were painted and then fitted, normal
liquid glue being used to join each
run together. Its been a while since
Ive used vinyl tracks, but these
looked great in place!
MENGs Leopard is
very easy to build, with
perfect fit and little in
the way of clean-up,
to hold up progress.
One of the more

important features
of this vehicle are
the weld beads that
pepper its surfaces. These
are not dealt with particularly
well being rather indistinct or the
wrong pattern in places and though
they are, by and large where they
should be, could really do with
some extra work to bulk them out
and make the patterning on each
one look somewhat more authentic.
As is apparent from the opening description, this kit actually
replicates both the 1A3 and 1A4
variants. In so doing, a number of
optional parts are included such as
the PERI R12 Panoramic Periscope
and PZB200 Sighting System,
smaller periscopes and antenna
mounts. In offering the two variants,
the kit supplies four different colour
schemes. These are as follows:
Leopard 1A3 Bundeswehr 2
Squadron, 304 Panzer Battalion,
mid 1980s. Finished in three-tone
NATO camouflage
1980s. Finished in plain green.
1980s. Finished in plain green
Leopard GR1 Hellenic Army.
Finished in four-tone Hellenic
Army brown, green, black, sand.
For this build I unashamedly built
a what if model that I intend using
as part of a diorama later in the year.
I really liked the idea of building a
vehicle fitted with the PZB200 sight,
but also liked the three-tone colours.
As I was already taking liberties with
the fixtures and fittings, it seemed
to be no more problematic to do
so with the markings too and so I
used the sombre 293rd Squadron
colours and numbers to decorate
my fantasy vehicle. I appreciate that
A choice of vents
is offered, the
standard one seen
here, and a tropical
unit suitable for the
Greek version.
Though virtually
hidden on the
completed model,
these small vents
on the engine deck
are replicated in
photo-etch.
Power cables
were added to
the searchlight
and PZB200 sight
using lead wire
and small resin
connectors from
the spares box.
A small amount
of filling and
sanding is needed
where the side
skirts meet the
front mudguards.
Humbrol Model
Filler and a touch
of thin superglue
dealt with this in
short order.
19/08/2014 13:58
this was an A4 and would not be

backdated to an A3 with an updated
colour scheme(!), but it fitted my
need to build a generic vehicle that
will live in a completely imagined,
fictional location.
CONSTRUCTION
Work begins on the lower hull, suspension and running gear. The onepiece lower hull tub is decorated
with all of the smaller suspension
dampers, bump-stops and mounts
for the idler and sprocket wheels.
Once in place the swing arms can
be slotted through the wall of the
hull. These are fixed inside the hull
so that the swing arms can rotate,
tensioned prototypically, by the torsion bars. This works well and adds
a degree of flexibility when it comes
to the set up of the model later
on. Should you wish to represent
wheels over uneven terrain, leave
the arms loose, but if not, I would
suggest fixing the arms permanently at this point. The wheels are
easy to clean up and assemble, the
two halves of the main units trapping a poly-cap, thus allowing the
wheels to be removed for painting.
Two types of sprocket are included,
the later 15-bolt units being suitable
for the Greek option.
The upper hull fits well to the
completed lower hull, as does the
rear hull plate. As usual, I joined
all of these parts prior to adding
the smaller details, any adjustment
that may have been needed, being
possible without worrying about
damaging the finer details.
The smaller items such as the
tools were essentially used as-is,
the only improvements being to
open out some of the solid locking
clamps with a fine drill bit and scalpel. Detail here really is top drawer,
each tool capturing the look and
feel of the originals to a tee. Though
the instructions suggest adding
the clear periscopes now, these
were left off as were their etched
guards until after the model had
been painted and weathered.
One of the weaknesses in this
kit is the depiction of the exhaust
outlets on the rear hull sides. These
are extremely toy-like and really
dont capture the delicate look of
the real thing at all. In fact, Italeris
70s era kit depicts these items with
Before painting
could begin proper,
the model was
sprayed with
several thin layers
of Tamiya Fine
Surface Primer.
Painting begins with several layers

of Tamiya XF-71 Cockpit Green. The
wheels were first sprayed black and
then the hubs airbrushed with the
help of a cheap circle template.
With the green dry, the brown

could be applied. Care was
taken to follow the pattern
shown in the instructions, to
the letter. There is no doubt
that the use of lighter colours
at this stage makes the model
appear to be more in-scale
The camouflage is completed with the addition

of the German Grey layer. Note the tight
demarcations, made possible thanks to the
use of Tamiya acrylics and Mr Color Thinner.
With the camouflage painted, the entire model

was sprayed with a fine layer of Tamiya Buff
to both blend the colours together and provide
the first layer of weathering.
Though looking fine

in its camouflage,
the details needed
to be defined and
so the model was
treated to a pinwash mixed from
Winsor & Newton
Raw Umber, thinned
with white spirit.
With the wash dry, the details were drybrushed with Humbrol
The results of the washing and drybrushing can be seen in this
enamels. This both popped the detail and smoothed out the finish. view, especially on the side skirts.
19/08/2014 13:59

more finesse, which is astonishing
given the quality of much of the rest
of the kit. They were used as supplied here, but should I build this
kit again they would be replaced as
they really do detract from the look
of the completed model.
The final items to be added were
the two large side skirts. These run
the entire length of the Leopard, their
front end forming a smooth, curved
mudguard. As supplied in the kit,
there is a joint line that needs to be
dealt with where the two mudguard
halves meet, so this was glued
together with MEK, left to dry and
then filled with thin Humbrol Model
Filler and thin superglue. This was
then sanded smooth and polished
with fine sanding sponges until all
trace of the joint had disappeared.
The turret is up next. As with the
hull, the turret is assembled from
several large sections detailed with
plenty of small features such as
hatches, sights, smoke dischargers
and that distinctive gun barrel. The
instructions suggest starting with
the searchlight and in this case,
PZB200 Sighting System. These are
easy to construct, the searchlight
offering a choice of open or closed
doors, a glazed panel being used
should the former be chosen for
your model. The PZB200 is an
interesting item that surrounded
by a complex protective frame
thats moulded incredibly, in only
one piece! You may find a touch
of cleaning up here and there, but
essentially it can be used as supplied, slipping neatly over the sight.
The barrel is moulded in two
halves with a separate muzzle
complete with delicate rifling to
complete its front end. Though
one-piece barrels are de riguour
these days, two part barrels can
look very good so long as you take
your time to line up the two halves
before committing to the glue pot.
You can then clean it up with fine
sanding sticks and polishing pads
to create a smooth, round barrel.
With the barrel slipped into place on
the mantlet and then the seachlight
and PZB200 fixed to their brackets,
this sub-assembly can be fixed to
the mounts within the turret and
then the shell completed, ready for
the smaller details.
As mentioned earlier, the different
vehicles are fitted with different

optical devices such as the PERI
R12 Panoramic Periscope and so
you need to drill holes into the turret
to mount some of them. This is
simple enough, but it does mean
that you have to make early choices
as to which vehicle you are going
to model. You could of course be
fly and simply open up all of the
holes to increase the time needed
to make a decision and then close
up the ones you dont need, but
Id rather be more prepared! Whilst
making those decisions you can
add either of the two different
antenna bases and mounts, before
dealing with the hatches and smoke
dischargers. These items are delicately moulded and relatively easy
to assemble, despite the smoke
dischargers needing no end of
adjustment, before they were all
lined up and in the correct position
relative to each other.
Before tackling the paint job, the
model was checked for any flaws
and then the instructions inspected
to see if Id missed any of the
smaller parts, which is easily done
during a detailed build such as this!
The model was now ready to be
painted.
CAMOUFLAGE AND MARKINGS

Painting commenced by giving
the model several thin coats of
Tamiyas Super Fine Primer to
create a smooth, hard surface onto
which I could apply the three-tone
camouflage. Across the board I
used Tamiya acrylics thinned with
Mr Color Thinner, sprayed with my
Iwata HP-CH airbrush.
Ive long-since stopped using
preshading, but in this case I felt it
worth spraying a dark colour under
the hull and inside the skirts, hull
sides and onto the back of the
roadwheels to add a little contrast.
The wheels were then stuck onto a
kit box with double-sided tape and
sprayed with several thin coats of
flat black. Once dry, a circle template was used to mask off the rims
so that they could be sprayed green
to match the upper surfaces. It was
now time to paint the camouflage.
If you paint one of these threetone NATO schemes, you have
off the shelf choices of colour with
Tamiyas NATO Green, Black and
Weathering began
with the application
of different shades
of dusty pigments.
The pigments were

applied dry and
also mixed with
thinners, the latter
splattered over the
suspension with and
old, flat brush.
Though I mainly
used oils and
enamels to
apply stains and
the like on this
model, some
use was made
of proprietary
weathering
solution such as
AK Interactives
Oil Stains.
Tiny mud
splashes were
added to the
model using
AKs Fresh Mud,
flicked over the
model using an
old, flat brush.
The lights were

first painted silver
and then glazed
with Tamiya clear
colours.
A simple pencil
adds a metallic
sheen on the tools
and tow-rope.
19/08/2014 13:59
A.
Brown topping the list for acrylic

users. The problem with these colours is that despite being close to
the real shades, they are too dark
for a miniature and are very difficult
to weather pleasingly, as a result.
That being so, Ive replaced each
one of these with lighter colours
that once weathered, are closer
to the shades I feel is appropriate
on a 1:35 model. So, in this case I
used XF-71 Cockpit Green, XF-63
German Grey and Tamiya XF-68
NATO Brown lightened with around
30% XF-15 Flat Flesh. In combination, these shades look very good
on a model and having now used
them twice the first time on
Revells SPz Puma Im more than
happy with my choices!
Happy that the camouflage was
perfectly dry, the whole model was
sprayed with a VERY thin layer
of Tamiya Buff thinned with 80%
thinners. This served two purposes:
firstly, it blended the three colours
together slightly and secondly,
added the initial layer of dust, onto
which I could begin the main
weathering runs. At this point the
model looked fine, but of course
needed more work to define those
details and create a well-used
machine. This began by mixing a
thin wash from Winsor & Newton
Raw Umber oil paint, Humbrol Matt
Black and white spirit. The model
was then dampened small areas
at a time and then the washes
carefully applied around details,
panel lines and corners. Once dry,
any excess was blended away with
a soft, flat brush, dragging some of
the wash down the vertical surfaces
to create the impression of dirt
runs, rain wash and the like.
One of the techniques Ive
returned to lately is drybrushing.
Though slightly out of favour
amongst modellers, I feel that it is
B.
C.
D.
E.
A. The rear of the

hull shows off
how the layers of
weathering work
together to create a
realistic finish.
B. The tools are
an integral part
of the model and
must be painted
and weathered with
the same level of
attention as the rest
of the model.
C. The two, crew
figures are actually
the same basic
resin figure. The
smaller chap was
used stock, the
larger commander
was converted with
a new head and
sculpted hood. They
were both painted
entirely in Vallejo
acrylics.
D. Theres a vent
of the right-hand
side of the hull
that needs to be
carefully weathered
to create a rusty,
sooty appearance.
Note the wooden
tool handles,
painted in oils over
an acrylic basecoat.
E. The headlights
are the only
glazed lights on
the model. Decals
were applied with
the aid of Johnsons
Klear before being
oversprayed with
matt varnish and
then blended in with
oils and pigments.
a useful way of refreshing a finish

post washing and so I mix up lightened shades of the camouflage colours using Humbrol enamels and
then carefully drybrush each colour
individually, until the smaller details
subtly pop out. This is done slowly
and with a light touch; Im not
looking to create a frosted surface,
just highlight those delicate details
and in the process, deepen the
shadows created by the washes. It
also helps to smooth out the finish
and further unify the colours.
I have to admit that I rather liked
the old-school look of the model
at this point, but knew that it was
necessary to further degrade the
finish with pigments and additional
washes, until the model looked as
grubby as those real vehicles I had
studied in my reference photos. To
do this I gradually applied some
random deposits of Mig Production
Europe Earth pigment, fixing each

layer into place with Migs Thinners
For Washes (plain white spirit would
also do) before blending in the
effected areas of dust with a soft
brush. This was repeated over the
surface of the model until happy,
before airbrushing it with a layer of
Migs Pigment Fixer to set everything in place.
Now for the fun part! I mixed
some of the pigment with thinners
to create a coloured solution and
then airbrushed the results over the
surface of the model, the rear hull
plate, bow plate and nose, side
skirts and upper surfaces heavier
around the lower flanks, lighter
on the upper surfaces. At first you
see no effect of this work, but as
the thinners evaporates youll see
the surfaces lighten and become
covered in a very thin, evenly distributed layer of dust. This layer can
More splashes, dust

and dirt. Lovely!
01/08/2014 09:26

then be manipulated with brushes,
a finger, cotton buds and soft cloth,
to create the most wonderfully realistic dust effect. Once again, it is
worked to personal satisfaction and
then fixed with an airbrushed layer
of Fixer. Ive tried dozens of ways
of replicating dust on a model, but
nothing comes close to this one,
both in terms of realism and ease
of manipulation.
It is always tempting to leave a
model be at this point, but though
weathered the dust and dirt tends
to look a little bland and so its now
given a few layers of additional
washes to add to the impression of
use and break up that rather monochrome dust. In this instance I used
the same Raw Umber and Matt
Black wash mixed earlier, along with
some of AK Interactives Dark Mud.
These two solutions were applied
with a brush in controlled layers, or
flicked onto the model with an old
flat brush. Flicking the colour onto
the model really helps to impart the
look of random splashes and stains
and is something that I do a great
deal, both on armour an aircraft.
To see how this looks in practice,
please examine the nose, wheels
and rear hull plate of this model, all
of which have been heavily treated
with these layers of colour.
The smaller details could now
be painted. As with many modern
vehicles there really is no quick way
around the finishing of the vehicles
fixtures and fittings, you just have
to bite the bullet and get cracking!
The easiest way to do this is to
block out all of the tools with their
From whichever
angle you look at it,
the Leopard 1A3 is
a very handsome
vehicle.
The glossy lights

on the rear hull
add a much
needed splash of
colour. Note also
the delicate mud
splashes and layers
of fine dust.
relevant colours and then overlay

other shades as appropriate. For
instance, the tools were painted
with matt black metallic parts and
desert yellow wooden handles.
Once dry the metallic parts were
washed with Humbrol Khaki Drill
and then drybrushed with more
matt black, before rubbing each
one with a fine layer of graphite to
create a metallic finish. The wooden
handles could then be coated with
a thin layer of neat Raw Umber oil
paint and the excess removed in
long thin strokes, each one creating
the illusion of wood grain. Once
dry, some shading could be added
and then the clamps painted with
their relevant camouflage colours.
Dark washes and the application of
pigments finished the job.
FINAL THOUGHTS
I enjoyed building Mengs Leopard
and I really like the completed
model. In my opinion this is a really
important member of the Leopard
family and its good to finally have
this model in the display case,
which after all really is the object of
the exercise and for that reason,
I would consider this new kit a success and one to be recommended.
MODEL SPEC
TOOLS AND MODELLING
PRODUCTS USED
Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement
Tamiya Masking Tape
GF9 Super Glue
Tamiya Fine Surface Primer
Daco Strong Setting Solution
PAINTS AND FINISHING
PRODUCTS
Mr Color Thinner
Tamiya XF-71 Cockpit Green
XF-63 German Grey
XF-68 NATO Brown
XF-15 Flat Flesh
XF-57 Buff
Games Workshop Purity Seal
Winsor & Newton Raw Umber
Humbrol 33 Matt Black
72 Khaki Drill
159 Khaki Green
86 Light Olive
27 Sea Grey
140 Gull Grey
Vallejo Flat Varnish
Vallejo 169 Black
150 German Camo Black Brown
306 Dark Rubber
Vallejo Face Painting Set
Mig Productions Pigments, Dark Wash and
Dust Effects
19/08/2014 14:00
CHAPTER 2 CLASSIC PLASTIC

Italeris reissue of their
classic Leopard 1A4 now
forms part of their Vintage
Collection. When I last built
this kit, it was almost new!
CLASSIC PLASTIC
Spencer Pollard takes a look at a
reissue of the very first 1:35 armour
kit he ever built, Italeris Leopard 1A4.
ooking back, I dont

remember where I got this
kit from. I certainly didnt
buy it, so can only assume
that I came by it through either a
swap with a friend, or a present.
Either way, this was my first armour
kit and as such, it holds a very
special place in my heart.
Having built one over thirty years
ago, it was nice to be reacquainted
with it when Italeri chose to
rerelease it as part of their Vintage
Collection. Not only could I see
if their Leopard was as good as I
remembered it to be, it could also
be compared to other, newer kits
that I had built over the last year.
Opening the box, you are faced
with a kit that must have been
something else all of those years
ago and even now, looks to be
well detailed, comprehensive and

in many ways, worthy of attention.
Detail is still very good, all of the
features of the original being
well captured. Indeed, in some
case Italeris parts are better than
MENGs; the exhaust vents for
instance are finer and the wheels,
though decorated with ribbed tyres,
have none of the ridiculous drums
on their rear faces that so define
the MENG and indeed, Takom,
offerings.
Smaller details such as the
hatches, smoke dischargers, MG
and tools, still look superb, the latter
featuring tool clamps when such
things werent even a twinkle in the
photo-etchers eye. Youll also find
a neat Hoffman gunfire simulator
for the barrel, commander figure
and get this! moulded aerials,
Even now, detail

on this kit stands
up well against
far more modern
offerings.
If anything gives
away the age of
this kit, it is the
commander figure!
The start of a thousand ideas: Francois

Verlindens build of
this kit in his classic
The Verlinden Way
Vol.II
tow cables and even a power cable

for the searchlight!
It really is astonishing that such a
complex kit could have been produced so long ago. According to the
information on the box, this kit was
first released in 1976, three years
before Tamiya released their A4.
Comparing the two kits shows just
how far ahead Italeri were in terms
of detail and features, their Leopard
being head and shoulders above
their Far Eastern rivals. At that time,
they were simply the best manufacturer of 1:35 kits on the planet.
Even today, I really like this kit
and have every intention of building
it again. It may not be up to the
standards that we can expect in
2014, but there is still enough within
the box to satisfy the enthusiast and
with a little TLC and some modern
finishing ideas and techniques,
should result in a fine replica. All
I have to do is find the time but
then, Ive waited thirty years to see
this kit, so what difference will a few
p 13 CH2 Leopard.indd 13
19/08/2014 14:01
CHAPTER 3 GENIETANK
he need for special purpose variants of tracked

armoured vehicles became
apparent during World
War II. Traditional wheeled recovery
vehicles either could not handle the
load or the terrain when faced with
handling heavy tanks in the field
so using a tank to recover a tank
seemed a logical choice. Because
tanks where in short supply with
most armies, it was important to
use the tank for what it was meant
to be; a weapon on the battlefield.
Having to use a tank to recovery
another tank meant the front would
lose not just one but two tanks at
the time when they were needed
the most. Converting obsolete
or damaged tanks to recovery
vehicles was a practical solution
for this problem. Removing the gun
and turret from an old tank created
a tug capable of towing other tanks.
Adding specialised equipment such
as a winch or welding and cutting
equipment enhanced the range of
capabilities further and further.
The protection that a tank can
provide in combat conditions
becomes a necessity not only
when recovering a vehicle but also
during typical combat engineering
tasks such as obstacle or mine
clearance. However, this requires a
vehicle with capabilities a recovery
tank most often cannot provide.
World War II has seen the birth of
a range of specialised engineering
tanks, the Hobarts Funnies being
some of the most famous ones.
These tanks played a major role
on the Commonwealth beaches
during the D-Day landings and are
considered the forerunners of
modern combat engineering vehicles.
GENIETANK
Marcel Jussen builds a Royal Dutch
Army Leopard Armoured Engineer
Vehicle (AEV) offering hits and tips
on building resin kits, along the way
ENTER THE
PIONIERPANZER
As early as in the planning
and designing stage of the
Standard Panzer Leopard, now
better known as Leopard 1, it was
decided that a recovery tank based
on all major components of the
Leopard 1 was needed. Keeping
a commonality of parts was
important because it offers a major
advantage when providing spare
parts in wartime conditions. It was
one of many important lessons the
Germans learned during World War
14 Chapter 3 - Genietank
01/08/2014 09:28
01/08/2014 09:28
CHAPTER 3 GENIETANK
II. Designed by Porsche and built
by MaK of Kiel the first Bergepanzer
2 Standard left the production line
in 1966. Though the Leopard 1 battle tank and the recovery tank share
a seventy-five percent commonality
in parts, they are two very different
tanks. The different upper hull
structure, the crane on the right,
a winch and a dozer blade at the
front leave little room as to what the
Bergepanzer 2 is meant to do.
Based on the Bergepanzer 2,
the Pionierpanzer 1 became the
second specialised variant of
the Leopard 1 combat tank. The
Pionierpanzer 1, also build by MaK,
is basically the same vehicle as the
recovery tank and can carry out the
same tasks. Again, the commonality of components being a major
factor in its design.
Its main purpose as an engineering vehicle is to overcome obstacles and build defences. To carry
out these tasks the Pionierpanzer 1
has an enlarged and wider blade to
provide dozer and obstacle clearing capabilities. The dozer blade
can hold a set of pulling prongs
attached to the bottom rear of the
dozer blade for demolition purposes. A hydraulically operated ground
auger, normally stored on the rear
deck, is attached to the crane for
drilling manholes that conceal a
soldier in the field. The hydraulic
system of the Pionierpanzer that
powers the blade, crane and auger
was adapted to be used for a much
longer and intensive period compared to the system used on the
Bergepanzer 2. Besides the large
dozer blade, another distinctive
feature of the Pionierpanzer is the
big cast ventilator/access door fitted to the right hull side which gives
access to the hydraulic system.
The crane on the Pionierpanzer was
also fitted with a ladder to facilitate
the fitting of the auger system
which is also a good means of
identifying a Leopard Pionierpanzer
from a Bergepanzer 2.
Though the Pionierpanzer
could be used, not only as an
engineering vehicle but also as a
recovery vehicle, it was built in low
numbers. Just under 100 vehicles
were ever built and most were
used by the German, Dutch and
Italian army. Because part of its
capabilities in time became less
The model is taking

shape quickly now
the hull is mated
to the upper deck.
The running gear
is done and some
of the tools are
also in place. The
engine deck is not
yet detailed but the
Voyager photo-etch
mesh is fitted.
The first
scratchbuilt
parts are done. The
blade looks mighty
impressive. At this
stage the smoke
mortar system,
antenna and rear
mounted stowage
box are also in
place. The copper
wire used for the
towing cable comes
from the PSM kit.
useful, the auger being one of

them, the German army converted
all of its thirty-six Pionierpanzer 1
to the Leopard Dachs. The Royal
Dutch Army however maintained
the role of the Leopard Genietank,
the name it gave to the Leopard
Pionierpanzer 1, as a specialised
armoured engineering vehicle for
its engineer corps. Even though
budget cuts have led to the loss of
all Leopard I and Leopard II tanks
within the Dutch forces, the Leopard
Genietank continues to be a valuable combat engineering vehicle to
this day. Next to the Leopard 1 and
Leopard 2 recovery tank it is one of
the very few large tanks still in use
with the Dutch army. The successor to the Leopard Genietank, the
Leopard 2 based Kodiak, is slowly
finding its way into the engineering
corps. So before all are gone, it was
time for me to build a scale model
of this remarkable vehicle.
IN MINIATURE
There are quite a few Leopard 1
kits of various versions and scales
going around, the Meng, Revell and
Tamiya kits being the most popular.

But armoured tracked recovery
and engineering vehicles are rare
to find as styrene kits in any scale,
the Leopard 1 Pionierpanzer, being
no exception. So building one in
scale means searching for a resin
conversion kit or scratchbuilding it
yourself. A couple of years ago the
German company Perfect Scale
Modellbau (PSM) released the
excellent Leopard Bergepanzer 2
as a full resin kit. It is an accurate
representation in 1/35th scale and,
as an option, even comes with an
interior. At the time I embarked
on this modelling endeavour, the
Pionier variant was still being
developed by PSM. Knowing very
well that PSMs version would
be the German version of the
Pionierpanzer, the outcome would
be having to scratchbuild the Dutch
parts anyway. I already had the
PSM Leopard Bergepanzer 2 at
home for quite some time and while
researching the Dutch Genietank,
I came to conclusion that I could
scratch-build the parts for the
Genietank myself.
19/08/2014 14:03
THE SAME, BUT DIFFERENT

So what are the differences
between the German Leopard
Pionierpanzer and the Dutch
Leopard Genietank? While both
vehicles have a lot in common, a
few changes are representative
to most Dutch Leopard tanks. All
Dutch Leopard 1 vehicles and
variants have retained the old Diehl
D139E2 tracks with chevron shaped
rubber pads. Luckily, PSM has a
perfect solution for this problem as
they produce as set of resin tracks
suitable for early Leopards and all
Dutch variants as well.
The Royal Dutch Army has also
been using their own Philips radio
systems and antennae as well as
a unique smoke mortar system on
all their vehicles. The antenna base
is mounted inside a large metal
box structure and the length of
the antenna is longer than current
German antennae. The Dutch
smoke mortars differ quite a lot
from the German system and is
still located at the top left edge
of the superstructure. In time the
ladder on top of the crane arm
has been replaced with a tarpaulin
covered construction used for
additional stowage room. Not all
Dutch Leopard Genietanks are
exactly identical to each other.
Those that have been used in
foreign deployments like SFOR and
KFOR in Croatia and Serbia, have
been outfitted with two wire-cutting
devices in front of the drivers hatch.
While the cutters themselves or
often stowed away, the mounts are
still visible.
The auger is hardly ever mounted
on the Leopard Genietank anymore
so while it was a welcome relief not
having to scratch-build these difficult parts, it forced me to see what
could be done with the large empty
space on the rear deck where the
auger is stored. The Dutch Army
engineering corps uses fascines
to overcome tank trenches or
small rivers in conjunction with the
Leopard Genietank. The fascines
are a bundle of hard plastic tubes
tied together with chains, wire and
mesh and are capable of holding
the weight of a full size tank.
The Genietank uses its crane
to lift and deploy the fascines.
In some cases the fascines are
loaded on top of a set of aluminium
bars mounted to the underside of

the dozer blade of the Leopard
Genietank. This way the fascines
are deployed by manoeuvring the
tank and lowering the dozer blade
at the right moment. However by
carrying the fascines on the bars
in front of the dozer blade, the tank
drivers forward view is severely
impaired by the fascines which
is not very practical during long
distances of travel.
When the Genietank is in the
field, the fascines can also be
stowed on top of the engine deck.
A couple of wooden beams are
laid out on the rear deck to provide
enough space for the engine cooling system to ventilate properly.
The fascines themselves are then
stowed on top of the wooden
beams whereas the crane is set on
top of the fascines to keep everything in place. As I wanted to build
my model with the fascines I figured
the weight of the fascines and
bars, when mounted to the blade,
could become a problem especially
when transporting the model. So I
preferred the fascines being stored
on the engine deck.
The work on the crane arm stowage is done. Notice the photo-etch detail on
the tarpaulin straps.
A close-up look at the smoke mortars and antenna. The antenna is an RB

Models offering and although it is not an exact copy of the Dutch antenna,
it is a nice detail on the model.
GETTING STARTED
Building a resin kits is quite different
compared to normal styrene plastic
kits. While detail on a resin part can
be just as good as or even better
than a styrene part, handling and
building a resin kit is very different
to what you may have been used
too. If you have no experience
with resin, I recommend building a
small resin conversion first so you
get acquainted to the material and
building techniques before embarking on a full size resin kit. Heres a
few tips and pointers when working
with resin.
Before you start working on your
resin kit, it may be necessary to
clean the resin parts in bath of
warm soap. Resin is poured in a
rubber mould that is often coated
with a release agent. A residue of
this release agent can remain on
the resin part making it impossible
to glue the part to your model.
You can only glue resin parts with
a cyanoacrylate adhesive. If your
spouse is complaining about smells
while you are building or painting
your models, just wait until the smell
of sanded resin and cyanoacrylate
The right side of the model shows the large access door with the hydraulic
ventilation system. Notice the temporary wire I used to keep the crane in its
position while testing the fit of parts.
A close-up of the hydraulic ventilator housing. To create a steel cast effect,

thinned Tamiya putty was applied to the surface of the housing.
The rear of the model showing some of the scratchbuilt parts that were
needed. Notice the plastic card at the bottom of the hull that was needed to
fill up room because the hull and rear plate didnt fit properly. Also notice the
added welding detail made with Archer Fine Details, resin welds.
19/08/2014 14:03
CHAPTER 3 GENIETANK
glue gets in the air! Unlike styrene
parts on a sprue, resin parts usually
come with the casting blocks still
attached These need to be cut
from the parts either by cutting or, if
you have the experience, by gently
breaking them of the casting block.
Cleaning up resin parts from their
casting blocks is laborious and you
have to take precautions against
resin dust as it is unhealthy in large
quantities. Ventilating your working
area when working with resin kits is
definitely a must!
Another thing you may have to
get used to while working with resin
is the fact that small parts warp
and break easily and if the pouring
of the resin is not done correctly
some parts can have pockets of air
on the surface. Correcting warped
parts can be accomplished by
dipping the resin part in hot water
and adjusting the part by hand.
Damage from pockets of air can
be repaired with putty or, when
the damage is only small, the hole
can be filled with thick cyano glue
droplets. Remember to use small
amounts of cyano glue and a bit of
pressure to bond dust and grease
free resin parts together. I use a
small wire dipped in a drop of
cyano glue and hold the tip of the
wire at the gap between the parts I
need to glue together. This way the
glue gets drawn in the gap without
creating mess on the surface.
The build is in its

final legs. I test
fitted the fascine
bundle to the engine
deck just to get
a feel how things
would look.
Even without any

paint it looks
impressive!
deck did not fit at the bottom of

the hull. The rear wall extended
about 1 millimetre beyond the end
of the hull. I solved this problem by
adding a plastic card plate on top
of the bottom of the hull but it also
meant I had to recreate the details
of the break access hatches that I
just covered up with plastic card. As
these hatches have a circular shape
which could easily be reproduced
it was an easy fix to what at first
seemed to be a difficult problem.
The Perfect Scale Modellbau
kit comes with a set of late style
German tracks and because these
The first layer of paint on the fascines
was pure matt black but I quickly
discovered this to be too dark.
I changed it to a dark grey giving
more room for weathering effects and
creating a more balanced look.
MOVING ON
As I bought my kit without an
interior it meant I could start by
bonding the hull with the upper
deck and rear wall but not before
the engine ventilation grill was fitted
first. Even though the mesh of the
grill was produced in photo-etch, I
opted to replace it with a Leopard
1 grill from Voyager, as it was
better detailed than the one from
the PSM kit. I know this seems like
going overboard on details but for
ease of mind I rather spend a few
euros on the Voyager mesh than
not. Unfortunately when working
with resin, especially with larger
pieces like hulls and decks, you
will discover sooner or later that
because of the casting process and
shrinkage that sometimes occurs,
the fit of these parts is not always
perfect. In this case, the rear wall
that closes of the hull and engine
cannot be used on a Dutch vehicle,

I replaced them with resin chevron
shaped Diehl tracks. While many
modellers are used to building the
wheels and tracks separately for
easy access during painting, this
was not possible on this resin kit.
I had to build and glue the wheels
and tracks together completely
fitted to the model.
While looking at photographs that
I made of the Leopard Genietank
in the Dutch army, I noticed that
the vehicle does not store the
snow grousers to the right of the
superstructure like the German
Fitting the crane

hook to the crane
and test fitting it
to the fascines.
I made sure the
entire crane hook
assembly could be
taken apart from
the crane so that
painting it would be
a lot easier.
01/08/2014 09:28
Pionierpanzer does. In fact, Dutch

Leopards do not use the snow
grousers at all and as the grousers
are cast onto the upper hull, it
meant I had to remove them from
my model. This was achieved by
carefully grinding them away with
a Dremel tool and repairing the
hull surface with putty. Again, when
using a tool like a Dremel multi-tool
on resin, take precautions against
resin dust.
The extended dozer blade was
a major part that would have to be
scratchbuilt from the ground up.
Thankfully theres a great set of
scale drawings of the Pionierpanzer
in the Leopard 1 Trilogy by Michael
Shackleton that I could use for this.
Bending a large piece of plastic card
by immersing it in hot water and
rapidly cooling it off I was able to
create the shape of the dozer blade.
After that it was a matter of detailing
it further with plastic card following
the scale drawings and photographs
to create the dozer blade. It sounds
easy, but I have to admit it took two
tries, as the first was a complete
and utter disaster. Besides failing
to add the extra pieces needed to
create the fully extended blade I
also damaged it during the bending
process. Needless to say I was quite
relieved when the second try went a
lot better!
The air-cooling unit for the
extended hydraulic system of this
combat engineering tank is fitted
on the right side of the vehicle
and is a distinctive feature of the
Pionierpanzer and Genietank.
Getting it right was just as important
as building the extended dozer
blade. In this case I used the shape
of the hatch that it covers as a
template for layers of plastic card.
I sanded the part until it had the
required size and shape. On top
of the ventilation cover to the right
sits a mesh covered ventilation hole
that I recreated with a bit of mesh
and plastic card. The entire part
was then covered in thinned Tamiya
putty in a stabbing motion to recreate the cast structure.
During my research of the
Genietank I decided to use the tank
with license plate KU-89-45 as the
reference for my modelling project.
This vehicle has the mount plates
for the wire cutters at the front of
the superstructure as well as a set
A. The blade was

painted in a metal
colour and then
heavily chipped
with the hairspray
technique. The dirt
is achieved with
different layers of
pigments.
B. The fascines
were painted in a
dark grey colour.
I gave the fascines
a moderate layer of
dirt with pigments.
As big as they are,
I didnt want them to
dominate the entire
view of the model.
C. Many of its tools
are mounted on
both sides of the
vehicle. The warning
light brings an extra
touch of detail and
colour to the model.
D. The mesh on
top of the hydraulic
ventilator system
is clearly visible.
The prongs used
for demolition
purposes on top of
the deck above the
two shovels. When
in use they are
mounted to the rear
of the dozer blade.
E. An overview of
the crew access
hatches. Even though
the commander has
the best view of
the house, its the
driver who operates
the dozer blade and
crane. Behind the
commander is room
for a third crew
member.
F. A layer of anti-slip
has been applied
to parts of the
superstructure and
crane arm. This was
done by airbrushing
Tamiya clear to a
masked region of
the surface and
covering it with a
metal powder. Once
it was dry I gave it
another thin coat of
Tamiya clear.
G. An extreme closeup of the front of the
vehicle. The cable
pulley shows signs of
wear and the inside
has been metalized
with a pencil.
H. Even though the
fascines dominate
the engine deck
theres still room left
for a bit of detail. You
can see a glimpse of
the wooden blocks
that provide enough
room for the engine
ventilation and
cooling system.
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
of mud flaps at the hull rear. Both

parts were recreated and parts of
the mounts for the towing bars were
either replaced or detailed with
plastic card and copper wire. The
engine deck is not only the place
to store the drilling auger but also
the dozer blade extensions. As I
depicted the dozer blade whilst
fully extended I still had to build the
mountings for the blade extensions
on the engine deck. You might
think this is a waste of time as the
fascine bundle covers up most of
the engine deck but when looking
from the rear some of this detail is
still visible so it was important to me
to replicate it anyway.
The ladder on top of the crane
has been replaced on all Dutch
Genietanks with a frame used for
stowage. This frame, made from
lengths of tubing, is covered up
with a tarpaulin custom made
for these tanks. The process of
scratchbuilding this part consisted
of creating a plastic box like piece
in the general shape of the

framework and covering that up
with sheets of two-part putty. The
plastic gives the part its strength
and the putty is used for all the
detailing. I draped three individual
sheets of putty of the same lengths
over the framework just like the real
tarpaulin is made of three sheets
fitted together. The straps that tie of
the tarpaulin are made from putty
although the strap ends that drape
on top of the crane are pieces of
Tamiya tape glued to the tarp. I
added photo-etch pieces from the
spares box to enhance the detail on
the straps, as well.
Unfortunately, during the construction of the PSM kit I somehow
managed to lose an important part
for the crane. In fact, that part was
the crane hook. Fortunately, my
friend Roel Geutjens who owned
the same PSM kit was willing to
lend me his so I could recreate it
with plastic card.
The last pieces of hull parts that
19/08/2014 14:05
CHAPTER 3 GENIETANK
needed to be built where the smoke
mortar system, the antenna, and
driver mirrors. The smoke mortars
are unique for Dutch Leopards and
I got mine from an old Legend set.
The mount and protective bars are
made of plastic card and detailed
with bolts made with a punch and
die. The antenna base is made with
plastic card and the antenna itself
is a brass part from RB Models. At
a later stage I decided to add the
orange warning light, which comes
from an Accurate Armour set as
an extra colourful detail. The driver
mirrors are from the PSM kit but
the arms of the mirrors are made
of brass tube and copper wire. The
resin parts for the mirror arms where
just a tad bit too fragile for my
liking. I also drilled out the driving
lights that stick out just above the
dozer blade. I inserted a pair of Tron
lenses into the lights, which give the
model a more realistic look.
The final eyecatcher to be built
for this Genietank was the bundle
of fascines. That was actually
not as hard as I had imagined. I
bought a bunch of plastic straws
and made template for cutting the
straws at the required length. I
counted the number of fascines on
a real tank and made a few extras
with the straws. Just like the real
fascines they are kept together on
both sides with netting. The outer
ring of fascines is actually kept
together with a steel wire that runs
through each fascine. To handle
the bundle with the crane a pair of
chains is run through the fascines. I
replicated this with the fascines on
my model as well.
I like my models to have a

modest amount of weathering
but the dozer blade just
cried out to receive a more
appropriate paintjob...
PAINTING AND WEATHERING
Painting and weathering is done.

Notice the scratchbuilt prongs
stowed underneath the crane
right in front of the fascines. Also,
the straps on the tarpaulin are
deliberately painted in a lighter
colour so they stand out.
The model was painted with

Tamiya NATO acrylic paints and the
camouflage pattern was entirely
airbrushed by hand without the use
of any masking. The decals for this
model comes from a decal sheet
made by Echelon Fine Details. I
like my models to have a modest
amount of weathering but the dozer
blade just cried out to receive a
more appropriate paintjob. Theres
no way you can have a dozer blade
without paint damage, rust and dirt.
I painted the blade separately in
a steel colour and with the help of
the hairspray technique created the
worn and damaged paintjob. On
top of that the remains of sand and

dirt on top of blade were made with
different coloured pigments.
The fascines are pure black in
real life but I gave mine a dark grey
colour with a dark oil wash and
used different pigments to create
the dirt effects. The yellowish dust
effect on the tank surface but more
so on the wheels and tracks are
made with different enamel paint
washes. The final touch was to add
the strap running from the crane
hook to the rear hull made from
Tamiya tape and painted in a grey
and blue enamel colour.
FINAL THOUGHTS
In all it took me a couple of months
of building and painting this model
before it was finished. It gave me the
opportunity to try to build a complex
yet interesting model of a modern
vehicle you wont see very often
and Ive managed to extend my
building and painting skills just a bit
further than before. A special word
of thanks goes to Roel Geutjens
for helping me out with the crane
hook and all of my friends at KMK
for being the inspirational bunch of
modelling lunatics you are.
19/08/2014 14:06
The rear of the model is weathered

much more heavily as all the dust
and dirt accumulates here. The
crane hook is tied to the hull with a
strap made from Tamiya tape.
The right hand side is so much different

to the left. It gives a clear view as to
how the netting holds all the fascine
tubes in place. Youll probably notice
the red bands applied to the tools. This
is a Dutch army practice for identifying
which tool comes from a certain tank
whereas every tank uses its own colour
on their toolset.
The different effects of dust

and dirt on the blade and the
fascines are clearly visible.
19/08/2014 14:06
CHAPTER 4 THE NEXT GENERATION
REVELL 1:35 LEOPARD 2A4NL
by Spencer Pollard
THE NEXT GENERATION

How scratchbuilt details, stowage and
crew can help elevate Revells Leopard
2A4, into something truly unique
22 Chapter 4 - The Next Generation
01/08/2014 09:31
hen I decided to
build the first of my
Leopards, the Dutch
2A4 was top of my
list of subject. Many years ago I
found a book in a local shop that
dealt with NATO tanks and within its
pages, could be found a number
of photos of this vehicle, complete
with long-haired tank crew. These
images stuck with me over the
years and so when Revells kit was
released, that was the only version I
contemplated building.
Having made my decision, I hunted around for further images, both
online and in print, trying to find as
many unique features as I could.
Further discussions with friends
who had crewed these vehicles
highlighted further, the equipment
used by the Dutch (including those
distinctive tarpaulins) and so I knew
that with care, the resulting model
could be something just a little different. This extended feature, is the
result of that journey and the model
that I had at the end of it.
01/08/2014 09:31

REVELLS KIT
Given Revells heritage, its no
surprise to see them tackle this
family and so hot on the heels of
their new-tool A6 seen last year, we
now have in my opinion the best
looking of the family, the eightiesera 2A4.
Of course those familiar with the
earlier A6 kit will find that this one is
very similar with an identical set of
parts for the lower hull, suspension
and running gear. The differences
as one might expect, look to be
the new runners for the turret, sideskirts, gun and smoke dischargers
and of course decals. The rest of the
kit remains the same, as does the
method of construction. Lets ignore
the other kit for a while and take a
more detailed look at this one
As with all other German kits
from the Revell range, this one is
moulded in a rather unpleasant
dark green plastic. Though Im
somewhat against commenting on
such things, I feel it worth doing
here because this plastic seems
to mask the quality of much of the
detail that Revells designers incorporate into their kits; its only when
you apply a coat of grey primer
that the finesse of the production
becomes apparent and apparent it
does, because this is a very fine kit!
A cursory glance at the parts
in the box reveals some comprehensive detail that will be a joy to
assemble and paint. From the large
sections such as the upper hull and
turret, the kit certainly looks impressive not to mention, complete.
Along with what looks to be an
accurate model, certainly in terms
of overall appearance and features,
Rather than being

moulded in one
piece, the hull
is broken down
into flat panels
that combine to
create the finished
assembly.
Building the hull is

easy thanks to the
precise fit of the
parts. Tamiya Extra
Thin Cement is a
good adhesive for
this task.
Tools of the job

for any modelling
project: liquid glue
and a fine brush
The hull fit together
well, but still needs
some filler here
and there. Weapon
of choice for
this project was
Humbrols
excellent filler.
01/08/2014 09:31
The weakest parts

of the kit are the
tracks, two cables and
mudflaps, all of which
are moulded in a soft
vinyl material. Flash,
difficult to remove,
is apparent on all of
these pieces.
The suspension
arms are located
into the lower hull
using a shaped peg
and socket joint that
fixes each one in
place at precisely
the right angle.
the kit includes plenty to enjoy, both

in terms of construction and finishing. From the ground up, this is a
highly detailed offering from Revell;
from the basic assembly of the hull
through to the delicate suspension
and roadwheels - the latter decorated with some very neat casting
numbers the kit more than holds
its own against far more expensive,
not to mention more complex offerings from elsewhere.
Across the board, the designers
have replicated the Leopard well,
all of its many features appearing
in miniature. For instance, I was
impressed by the anti-slip panels
on the upper hull and turret parts,
which though perhaps a little too
smooth are a lot better than having
nothing at all! I was also impressed
by the delicate vents on the
engine deck - that look amazingly
three-dimensional, despite being
moulded in one piece - superbly
detailed suspension dampers and
the finely rendered tools (the latter
though, benefitting from replacement of their rather rudimentary
tool clasps).
Youll see that compromises are

apparent in the breakdown of the
hull, flat-pack assembly being the
order of the day here rather than a
one-piece hull on which suspension
details are added. Thankfully, the
parts fit well together well resulting
in a solid base for the rest of the
model. That said, youll need to
carry out some filling here and
there, the nose plate being in need
of some work to create a smooth
finish. Similar points apply when the
upper hull is fixed to the separate
side plates, small gaps becoming
apparent as this large piece is fixed
in place. While youre at it, you may
also find that the gun mantlet needs
some sink marks filling in too,
several being found on this part in
our review kit.
Despite much of the kit being
very impressive, there are compromises. The tracks are the most
notable. Moulded in soft vinyl
material, the tracks are extremely
flexible, easily stretched and in each
case, supplied in two pieces that
need to be joined. Not good. I really
wish Revell would take a look at
Heres a close-up of that replacement resin and brass gun

barrel from Inside the Armour. The quality of the parts is
very good, the brass being cleanly turned and milled and the
resin nicely detailed and cast. This little set certainly lifts the
appearance of this part of Revells, otherwise splendid kit.
The completed Leopard 2A4NL detailed and ready to be detailed further with stowage. Before
adding any small details, the basic hull and turret was built and then checked for any flaws,
Alclad Grey Primer being used to check the joints between the individual panels that make up
the hull and turret. Note here that the turret was originally built as-is, the rear stowage bin
being closed-over with its kit-supplied cover. That didnt stay in place for long!
19/08/2014 14:10
The turrets rear stowage bin was originally covered over with the tarpaulin supplied in the
kit, but it soon became apparent that this looked too stiff and out of keeping with the finesse
I was trying to achieve over the rest of the model. Decision made, I removed the cover and
then lined the inside of the bin with thin plasticard. The bin was filled with some random
bits and pieces from the spares box and then covered with tarpaulin made from thinly rolled
sheets of Magic Sculp, teased into place with a soft paintbrush and plenty of talcum powder.
In order to improve this kit, I used some parts from a redundant Tamiya Leopard that I had
in the stash. These included the gunfire simulator fitting to the mantlet, the Tamiya parts
perfectly replicating this distinctive piece of equipment. Whilst I was in a detailing frame of
mind, the rails on the turret sides were improved by using the mounts from the Tamiya kit
with Everygreen rod for the rails themselves
In the photographs on the Dutch Leopards that I found, there was a distinctive piece of
stowage having from one of the side rails and so I decided to sculpt this for my model.
This was down once again with Magic Sculp, a short roll of it being detailed with the same
rubber-tipped brushes used for the tarpaulin. Very thin strings, rolled from more putty,
replicate the ropes used to hold this piece in place
Because of its weight, the gun was fixed in place using 5-minute epoxy and then the mantlet
secured with the same material, to remove any chance of the barrel drooping over time.
Though the canvass cover just in front of the mantlet is supplied in the ITA barrel kit, I didnt
really like it and felt that I could create a more realistic item from scratch. This was done with
more putty, some plumbers tape, wrapped around the barrel, adding the final touch of detail.
The smoke dischargers on the sides of the turret are a distinctive feature of Dutch Leopards
and so replay careful assembly. In the kit they are rather simplified and so using the Prime
Portal website as a reference, they were detailed up using plasticard, Albion Alloys steel
wire and some fine florists wire bought from a local Hobbycraft store. Though a small part of
the model, the two sub-assemblies for the smoke dischargers took some time to complete,
but the results were certainly worth it, being far more detailed than possible from the box.
The glacis plate in detail revealing the Tamiya headlights, spare track links and stowed
mirrors. Most obvious in this shot is the rolled hessian thats a feature of Dutch Leopards.
Once again I grabbed the Magic Sculp to create this distinctive feature, the soft nature of
this material allowing it to draped naturally over the fixtures and fittings found on this part
of the Leopard.
01/08/2014 09:31
Perhaps the weakest part of the model in terms of detail, are the hangers for the large
armoured side skirts. These were improved with the addition of some small fixtures and
fitting made from plasticard, rod and Evergreen strip. Though not perfect, the results were a
huge improvement over the rather plain parts supplied in the kit. This shot reveals more of
that sculpted hessian, including the rope that was sculpted to tie it all in place
The photograph that I was using as my inspiration for this build showed some of the
hessian pulled away from the roll that ran the length of the vehicle. This was represented in
miniature by using two pieces of putty, one rolled up and the other, rolled out. I then carefully
joined the two pieces, sculpting tools and paintbrushes being used to tease the folds and
creases into shape
A close-up of the rear hull, its distinctive vents and the large mudguards. In the kit the
mudguards along with the tracks and the two cables are moulded in a dreadful vinyl
material thats impossible to clean-up and so they were replaced with two pieces cut from
the rear hull plate supplied in the Tamiya kit. Pioneer tools on the engine deck are a mixture
of Tamiya and Revell items the latter being used to create the ends of the tow cables
stowed on the deck; the cables themselves are Karaya items.
From the off I knew that this model would end up in a vignette/diorama and so I would need
some figures. As Dutch tankers are very thin on the ground in miniature, I needed to create
my own. The larger of the two figures was made using a body from VPs NATO Tank Crew set
with a hornet head, Tamiya helmet, Dragon hands and Magic Sculp arms. The smaller fellow
was essentially made from scratch, a blank resin torso, VP head and Dragon hands being
the detail on a uniform sculpted entirely with Magic Sculp, to match the uniform of the other
crew member. The plastic drinks bottle was grabbed from Mengs Pick-Up
the production of kit tracks in future

releases; if they can create link &
length tracks in their 1/72 armour
releases, I really dont see why they
cant produce them this way in the
larger, more detailed, 1/35 kits. The
design work has already been done
and the cost savings are minimal;
indeed, I would be happy to pay
and extra few pounds to have better
tracks in the kit, rather than over
10 for an aftermarket set
Along with the decals that differentiate the seven vehicles on offer
to the modeller, Revell include the
necessary pieces to replicate the
specific detail differences between
the standard 2A4 and the Dutch
A4NL. These include tweaks to the
guns muzzle, smoke dischargers,
MG fit on the turret and aerial

mounts the latter sitting above
variant-specific fillets that find they
way onto the sides of the turret. All
of these changes are clearly laid out
in the instructions, so even absolute
beginners will have little problem
working out what goes where.
The decal sheet offers seven
different vehicles, two German, one
Spanish, one Polish, one Dutch,
one Austrian and a single Greek
example. Along with the changes
to markings, these vehicles also
exhibit three different camouflage
schemes, two in disruptive camouflage and the rest in overall green.
The decal sheet is stunning, being
beautifully printed with plenty of
vivid colours and detail in evidence.
CONSTRUCTION AND DETAILING

Rather than go through the
assembly and reworking of this
model, I thought that it would be
better to work through those stages
using captioned images rather that
extended text. That said, it may well
be worth offer a few sage words of
advice for builders of both the basic
kit, as well a more heavily modified
version thereof.
Revells kit is a flat-pack kit,
whereby the lower hull and sections
of the upper hull and turret need to
be assembled using panels, rather
than being supplied in large sections. That being so, you will need
to carefully line up the pieces and
adjust everything carefully to ensure
the hull and turret are both square
19/08/2014 14:11
With the construction finished, the model was checked for flaws and then given several
thin coats of Tamiyas Superfine Primer. Once dry, a dark brown colour was mixed from
Flat Black and Flat Earth and then sprayed around the lower hull, roadwheels, tracks
and any large areas of detail. This acted as a rather heavy-handed preshading layer
and a way of preventing the grey primer showing up under the camouflage.
The camouflage was applied using a mixture of Gunze Sangyo Olive Drab brightened
with a few drops of Tamiya NATO Green. Though accurate, I dont really like straight
Olive Drab, feeling that the colour is rather too bland and so I often add a warmer tone
into the mix to make it a little more pleasing on the eye.
Checking the reference photos, especially those found on the

Prime Portal website, revealed an interesting feature: a distinctive
wear pattern on the upper surfaces of the vehicle...
and true. A little filling here and
there will also be needed but this is
by no means excessive.
Though the kit is well-detailed,
there are compromises. Those
tracks really need to be dealt with,
the aftermarket yielding suitable
alternatives from Fruil, MENG,
Orochi (used on my MEXAS),
Bronco, Spade Ace and HK
Creation Workshop. In this case, the
spare Tamiya Leopard 2A5 used for
the details was also used to supply
the tracks, the quality of these
parts working well with Revells kit.
Should I ever build another of these
kits, I would use the Orichi tracks as
they are truly impressive and very
easy to build
Before adding the details, check
over the model for evidence of
sink marks. These seemed to be
particularly evident of the mantlet
where some very careful filling and
sanding was needed to cure the
problem. On my kit, there were no
other areas similarly affected, but
a look its still work it, as it a check
over for gaps between the panels
that may need sealing.
It really is up to you how far you
go with the detailing. Though not
a comprehensive reworking, this
model was detailed to try and capture the intricate look of the original.
I found the Prime Portal website

was particularly useful in this
respect, some wonderfully involved
walkrounds, being there for all to
enjoy. In terms of actually detailing,
the costs of reworking this kit were
kept to an absolute minimum, only
an aftermarket barrel from Inside
The Armour being used, all other
features being improved with rod,
strip and epoxy putty.
PAINTING AND WEATHERING

Having spent a considerable
amount of time or so it seemed!
building my Leopard, it was finally
time to apply some paint and a little
weathering. From the outset I knew
that this model would be painted
in as close-to-the-original finish as
possible and so I grabbed as many
reference pictures as I could, to
get a feel of what the real Dutch
Leopard 2A4s looked like whilst in
service during the Eighties.
Anyone thats followed my work
over the years will know that I really
dont like muddy vehicles, as I feel
that the application of thick layers
of goop, tends to cover up the fine
detail and you end up seeing the
mud first and the model second!
So that was out. Having decided
on a dusty finish, I now needed
to work out how make the model
Though there are a range of shades at this point, the model is a still a little
too dark for its scale and so its now time to apply warmer shades of colour
to brighten the models finish. At this point I also sprayed the tarpaulins
hanging from the sides of the model using increasingly lightened layers of
Tamiya Khaki, very thin paint being once again used to great effect.
The additional layers of lighter colours and an run of drybrushed enamels has
helped lighten the basecoats and highlight the detail.
19/08/2014 14:13
Weathering begins. Using a small metal tin, a drop of Windsor & Newton Raw Umber oil paint
was thinned with a little of Migs Thinner For Washes (any other thinner being just as suitable,
if you have it), this dilute solution being applied around all details and then blended-in with a
soft brush dampened with clean thinners.
Drybrushing is a somewhat lost art, but carefully applied it is still a very useful part of the
pantheon of techniques that we can use to finish a model. Here it is being used to blend the
washes that have already been applied and accentuate the detail a little. The trick is to use
shades that are half a tone up from the base colours and not overdo it you dont want the
model to look like its covered in frosting!
The rear of the turret and that distinctive cable reel certainly pop following the drybrushing
applied earlier. Note how subtle the effect is; theres no obvious highlighting, just a
refreshing of the detail. On this model I used Humbrol enamels to carry out this task, No.86
Light Olive, No.150 Forest Green and No.159 Khaki Drab, being used to great effect over the
surface of the model.
There was no doubt that the model looked cool with the initial layers of dark wash and
carefully accented detail, but it couldnt really be described as weathered and so it was
time to apply some dirt. This began with the application of AKs excellent Dust Effects,
a thin, buff coloured wash that looks excellent on a dark model such as this.
With the Dust Effects dry, the next step in the weathering of the lower surfaces could take
place using in this case, Mig Productions oil colours, Light Earth and Buff. Unlike the
washes, the oils are applied neat, small drops being dabbed into place and then blended in to
the surrounding surfaces, until the colours look natural. This can be repeated as many times
as you need, different shades helping to create a finish thats both realistic and interesting.
In close-up, the results of the washes and the oil colours can be easily seen. Note also how
some of the paint has been drawn down the sides of the skirt to produce fine runs of dirt.
Though time consuming, this part of the weathering process is vital if the resulting model is
to look realistic and in-scale.
19/08/2014 14:14
a little different from a plain-Jane,

green vehicle.
Checking the reference photos,
especially those found on the Prime
Portal website, revealed an interesting feature: a distinctive wear
pattern on the upper surfaces of the
vehicle. Wondering what this was, I
asked some friends, who explained
that the Dutch Leopards had been
German vehicles at one time and as
such, had been painted in a dark
green shade. When taken on by the
Dutch, they had been resprayed
in a paler Olive Drab finish and
through use this lighter colour wore
away to reveal the darker German
finish underneath. This had to be a
feature of my model! I liked the idea
that it would add another layer of
depth to the finish and though not
obvious from distance, would repay
the viewer keen to take a closer
look, with paintwork that was just a
little different from the norm.
So I had a plan in mind, but the
model was still a little bland and so
the decision was made to replicate
a vehicle that was on exercise, thus
allowing the application of bright
crosses, triangles and the like that
the crews applied to their mounts,
using coloured tape. Though the
markings applied to the model
would create a somewhat generic
subject, I was careful to apply the
crosses in prototypical positions,
anything else jarring with the accuracy I was trying to achieve with the
camouflage.
The final splash of colour would
be supplied by a coloured flag
fixed to the side of the turret. A red
flag usual denotes a vehicle in the
process of live-firing the gun and
according to guys who have served
on these vehicles, should rarely, if
ever, be used on a vehicle that is
fitted with a Hoffman gunfire simulator. Surely I hadnt made a mistake?
I used a number of
different oil colours
to add weathering
effects and tonal
variations around
the model. Here,
you can see Mig
Productions Light
Earth, Buff and
Dark Rust oils
ready for use.
There was no getting away from the fact that those tarpaulins, were a bear to paint! If ever I baulk at
the idea of painting a figure, Ill remember how long it took to paint these parts of the Leopard, multiple
layers of very thin Vallejo acrylics being built up to produce the necessary light and shade on the
sculpted folds. In this shot you can see the pallete that I used to mix the paint, several shades being
created that could then be applied over one another, each being simply thinned with water.
The completed tarpaulins painted using Vallejo acrylics.

You can see just how many variations in light and shade
were used on these distinctive items, nearly two full days
of work being needed to complete the full run
Though reasonably happy with the appearance of the green

camouflage, I couldnt shake the feeling that further work was
needed to pop the surfaces a little more. That being so, I used
some green filters over some of the more prominent details to
make them stand out a little more Migs Green For Light Green
Filter being used in this shot.
With the basic camouflage in place, time was taken to replicate

the worn finish discussed earlier. To show areas of wear, I simply
stippled Vallejo Olive Drab acrylic over the upper surfaces of the
model using a small piece of sponge. Constant reference to the
amazing images on the Prime Portal website were used to ensure
that the wear patterns were accurate in both shape and location.
19/08/2014 14:14
Had I imagined a vehicle kitted out

in this way? I went back to check
my references and sure enough, in
Tankograds wonderful Nederlandse
Troepen Vehicles Of The Royal
Netherlands Army In Germany 19632006, theres a picture of a Leopard
2A4 crossing the River Weser with a
gunfire simulator fixed to the mantlet
and a flag flying from the right-hand
side of the turret. The only slight fly
in the ointment was that the simulator had its canvass cover in place,
but that was a compromise I was
happy to live with
The red crosses are a real highlight of the model

and were very easy to make. I simply used a
piece of Tamiya masking tape, sprayed it with
some red paint from an aerosol can and then cut
the tape into fine strips with a new scalpel blade.
Once in place the crosses were very careful
oversprayed with Tamiya Deck Tan to blend them
in and then weathered slightly with oil paints.
Job Done!
An in-progress
shot showing off
the large areas of
worn paintwork on
the upper surfaces.
Ive also painted
the stowage using
exactly the same
techniques and
materials used
for the tarpaulins,
shades of grey
being used here
to create a little
variation and add
interest to the
model.
There are a lot of lights around this model. Here, Tamiya Clear
Orange is being painted over a basecoat of Games Workshop
Mithryl Silver, to finish off the little lights on the mudguards. The
same techniques were also used on the rear hull plate to finish
off the lights in that area.
The reference photos didnt really reveal much in the way of

paint chips and the like, but they did show some areas of metallic
wear especially on the top of many of the weld beads and so I
added these to the model using a graphite pencil.
19/08/2014 14:14

FINAL THOUGHTS
Though not having the sophistication of delicacy of many of its
competitors, I really liked Revells
Leopard. Once past the awful green
plastic, it became apparent that the
detail was certainly comprehensive
and given its innate simplicity, the
kit would be quick to build. Of
course, that proved to be anything
but the case as I used it to form the
basis of a superdetailing project
that ran into many hours of enjoyable work the results of which, Im
extremely proud of.
Revells Leopard is a fine model
and as such I must recommend it
as perhaps the best way to build
the 2A4 in 1:35, either from the
box, or as seen here, with some
additional detail.
My thanks go out to Revell UK for
the sample used in this feature.
The two exhaust outlets were weathered with airbrushed

layers of Tamiya Flat Black diluted with Mr Color Thinner.
19/08/2014 14:14
A close-up of the turret roof reveals the worn finish described in

this feature, where the upper green has been removed to reveal
the darker German colours originally used on these vehicles.
Carefully applied washes and layers of drybrushed

enamels help bring out the detail around the engine deck.
MODEL SPEC
TOOLS AND MODELLING
PRODUCTS USED
Tamiya Masking Tape
GF9 Super Glue
PRODUCTS
Magic Sculp
XF-1 Flat Black
XF-52 Flat Earth
XF-49 Khaki
XF-68 NATO Brown
XF-67 NATO Green
XF-62 Olive Drab
XF-71 Cockpit Green
XF-59 Desert Yellow
XF-7 Flat Red
Gunze Sangyo Mr Color Thinner
H52 Olive Drab
Humbrol Enamel Thinners
86 Light Olive
150 Forest Green
159 Khaki Drab
33 Matt Black
Mig Productions Thinner For Washes
502 Abteilung oil paint, buff, Light Earth,
Light Rust, Dark Rust
Dark Wash
Green For Light Green Filter
AK Interactive Dust Effects
Vallejo 169 Black
306 Dark Rubber
Revells Leopard 2A4 is a fine
kit on which to add details and
accessories, the completed model
being very good as a result.
ACCESSORIES
Karaya Leopard tow cables
Verlinden Productions NATO Tank Crew
19/08/2014 14:14
CHAPTER 5 NOW YOU SEE ME
NOW YOU SEE ME

NETS, RAGS AND RUBBER MATS
Spencer Pollard show shows how, with some simple
alterations, a little scratchbuilding and the additional of
soft camouflage, even the most straightforward kit can
look radically different from one built out of the box.
34 Chapter 5 - Now You See Me Nets, Rags And Rubber Mats
01/08/2014 09:34
hilst looking for a

second build for
this book I stumbled
across a photograph
of what I assumed was a fairly
standard Leopard 2A6 covered with
camouflage nets and rags and fitted
with what looked like rubber panels,
hanging from its side skirts. Feeling
that it would be just different enough
to create an imposing model, I posted a picture of it on a social media
site and sat back until the Tamiya kit
that I had ordered, arrived.
A few hours later I received a
mountain of information on this
vehicle, including some that pointed
to it being a modified 2A6M fitted
with mine-resistant armour a newly
configured smoke dischargers.
Further study of the image revealed
that it was also fitted with different
side skirts that had raised bolts,
rather than the recessed items
incorporated into the kit parts.
Add the rubber skirts, front and
rear (fitted to cut down on shadows
around the suspension, running
gear and beneath the glacis plate)
and I had the makings of an
unusual model. It would involve
not only some scratchbuilding for
the new discharger mounts and
updated skirts, but also the creation
of the hessian rags, camouflage
nets and those distinctive rubber
skirt extensions. This model was
going to be fun!
Tamiyas Leopard
is one of the best
kits available of
this vehicle and an
absolute joy to build.
The completed hull

less than a few hours work.
Make the most of all

of this lovely detail,
as it will soon be
hidden forever!
Tamiyas etched set is a must for this kit.
01/08/2014 09:34
The kits side skirts were removed from the

large section that runs along the length of the
hull, leaving only the armour and rails in place.
Once carefully measured, new sections were
fashioned from 0.5mm plasticard, scribed and
then detailed with plasticard bolts created using
a punch & die. Note the missing section and
evidence of a mounting rail between the two
sections of extant skirt.
The smoke
dischargers on
the turret sides
were rebuilt to
reflect their current
appearance.
Though I used the
kit dischargers (not
perfect, but close
enough with a little
adjustment) the
rails and mounting
brackets were
fashioned from
Evergreen strip and
rod using images
from the Prime
Portal website, as
my main reference.
The real trick
here was to build
everything in place,
adding the upper
rail to the side of
the turret and then
all of the smaller
details, one by one.
It really was a case
of look and do!
CAMOUFLAGE NETS
A FAR FROM NEW IDEA
If you chose to build a collection
of modern vehicles, there is going
to come a time when you will need
to model items of soft camouflage
such as nets, rags and even foliage.
Though painted in colours
designed to hide their shape on the
modern battlefield, tank crews learn
quickly how to further conceal their
vehicles, with the addition of these
items and that means as modellers
we need to try and imitate that in
miniature, too.
There are many ways to do this,
from off the shelf nets and foliage
sets both material and more
The left-hand side of the side was similarly detailed. Adding further to the candid look of the
model, the rearmost section of skirt was folded up, plastic rod helping create the illusion of
a hinge. Note that the steps running along the bottom edge of the skirt were removed from
the kit parts, carefully sanded to around half of their thickness and then fixed in place with
Gunze Sangyo Mr Cement S.
recemtly, etched brass - through to

basic, homemade solutions such as
those seen here.
Tackling the construction of this
type of camouflage can be as easy,
or as difficult as you choose it to
be. For instance, you may elect
to simply add some plain netting
around the turret and gun barrel to
disguise their shapes, just as would
have been seen during WWII. Net is
available from the likes of Verlinden
Productions, AFV Club, Creative
Models etc., so you could use
that, but I like to use fine surgical
gauze bought cheaply from the
local chemists shop. This is cut up
into 2 squares and then soaked
in a very dilute solution of PVA

glue and water. With the excess
liquid squeezed out, the nets can
then be draped onto the model
and then manipulated into shape
with a paintbrush. Many modellers
like to do this after the model has
been painted, but I like to fix them
in place before, painting the nets
along with the camouflage so that
the results are tonally balanced and
look as though everything belongs
together. Once happy that all is in
place and left to dry thoroughly, the
nets can be painted and weathered
using your preferred materials and
methods of application.
So thats the easiest method,
A view of the
completed model,
assembled and
ready to paint. This
image reveals just
how different this
model looks now,
compared to one
built out of the box.
01/08/2014 09:34
The rags and hessian strips were modelled using both Magic Sculp for the rags and Green stuff for the delicate strips and sheets
of hessian. These were both mixed and then rolled out into thin sheets before either cutting then into squares and strips, or as
seen here, tearing them to create delicate, ragged edges. Soft brush and sculpting tools helped manipulate them into shape, water,
applied with a brush, being the binding agent needed to keep each piece in place. The netting was applied in small sections after
soaking each piece in dilute PVA adhesive, layers of net and hessian being laid one on top of the other until the effect was as
random and natural as possible.
how about other ideas? Well, you

can embellish the nets to reflect the
imitation leaves that adorn modern
examples with materials such as
tea leaves soaked in white glue and
painted in various shades of green.
You can add hessian strips using
thin strips of masking tape, lead
foil, tin foil or as in this case, thinly
rolled-out strips of two-part putty
such as Milliput, Magic Sculp, A&B
or Green Stuff. Once in place, these
little strips can then be painted in
contrasting khaki and brown shades
to make then stand out against the
surrounding netting. You may even
choose to apply a little drybrushing

here and there, washes, or even
pigments to make them appear well
used and uncared for!
The idea of using the two-part
putty can be pushed even further.
Over the last few years weve seen
a huge number of modern vehicle
bedecked in piles of old hessian
sheets, wrapped around barrels,
dumped over turrets and hull fronts
and hanging from the sides of
skirts, all there to further break up
the shape and purpose of these
malevolent machines. In this book,
you will find two examples of that
With assembly complete, the

model was primed with several
layers of Tamiya primer. Any
problem areas were dealt with
and then a final, thinner layer
sprayed on. The model was
now ready to paint
In order to simplify the painting of the

camouflage netting and rags, these were
first preshaded with a layer of Tamiya
NATO Black thinned with Gunze Sangyo
Mr Color Thinner. This colour was also
airbrushed under the hull and turret and in
and around the suspension lower hull.
in action, with
both the Dutch
Leopard 2A4NL
and the 2A6M
seen here, liberally covered in these
sheets. This is perhaps where a little
more experience and sculpting skill
comes into play, larger sections of
rolled out putty being needed to
recreate these flowing sections of
material and there smaller straps
and ties. Its not something that
should be avoided though, as the
path to completion is fun and the
results worthwhile you just have to
plan ahead
More Green Stuff

was rolled out and
then rolled back in
again to produce
these delicatelooking tarpaulins.
The Green Stuff
is so fine that
it allows very
thin sheets to be
created, perfect for
items such as this.
These two pieces
were left to dry
and then removed,
to be painted
and weathered
separately.
The wheels were

fixed to the back
of a kit box with
double-sided tape
and then sprayed
with several layers
of Tamiya Rubber
Black. Once dry, a
circle template was
used to mask the
tyres ready for the
hubs to be sprayed
with Tamiya NATO
Green.
19/08/2014 14:17

As with the MENG Leopard seen
earlier the camouflage was
sprayed with Tamiya German Grey,
Cockpit Green and NATO Brown
lightened with a little flesh. Mr
Color Thinner was added to each
colour to a ration of 40% paint,
60% thinners to ensure that the
demarcation lines were as tight as
possible. Once dry, nets and rags
were sprayed with basic layers
of Khaki, Buff and Dark Earth or
mixtures thereof before spraying
the turret and hull in a layer of
Games Workshop Purity Seal.
The finer details were initially
defined with a pin-wash
comprising Mig Productions Dark
Wash and Humbrol Matt Black, the
latter, thinned with white spirit.
This was applied over a surface
dampened with white spirit, before
being blended-in with a soft brush.
Once you have the basic ideas

in place, there is no reason why
you cannot then combine them
all, as we have done here. The
hessian sheets were added first,
overlaid with nets and then further
embellished with smaller pieces of
hessian and some flowing strips.
The process involved time and
some simple steps:
1. Add the hessian wrapped
around the barrel, on
the front on the turret
and glacis plate from
thinly rolled out sheets of
Magic Sculp, both cut to
shape and torn to create
naturally ragged edges.
Leave to dry.
2. Soak some squares of
gauze and then drape
over the turret and hull. Push
around with a paintbrush until
happy that the look is natural.
Leave overnight to dry.
3. Add a second layer of rags, this
time using finer, Green Stuff. This
allows the rags to conform more
easily onto the nets and their
underlying hessian sheets.
4. Add flowing hessian strips
using Magic Sculp torn into fine
lengths, using a steel rule to hold
the putty in place on your cutting
mat whilst ripping these small
pieces away. Create the shapes
you need and leave to dry.
5. Superglue the hessian strips in
place. Create more strips as you
see fit to sit on the netting, fixing
each in place with water before
they have dried out.
6. Leave everything to dry before
painting and weathering (as seen
in the pictures).
The lower hull

was airbrushed
in section with
Vallejo Flat varnish
thinned with water
and then whilst
still wet, stippled
over with various
earthy pigments to
create a dirty, mud
encrusted finish.
The tracks were painted with Tamiya Dark Iron and then weathered along with the
wheels, using washes and pigments fixed in place with both white spirit and pigment
fixer. Once happy with the results, these items can be fixed in place ready for further
weathering to blend them in with the surrounding hull.
With the wheels

and tracks in place,
the model is really
starting to come
to life. Note the
difference between
the weathered
running gear and
the as yet, untreated
upper hull.
Close up of the wheels revealing that pigment encrusted finish.

European Earth, Dark Mud and Beech Sand was mainly used
here, piled into the hubs and then fixed with white spirit. After
leaving it to dry overnight, an airbrushed layer of Pigment Fixer
served to hold the still delicate layers in place.
Weathering of the upper hull begins with a very thin layer of

Tamiya Buff, thinned with around 80% thinners and then airbrushed
on at around 25psi. The results of this are very delicate layers of
colour, perfect for the next round of washes and pigments.
01/08/2014 09:35
DRAWING UP A LIST
OF THINGS TO DO
Before beginning any new model
its important to gather together all
available reference material and
then write a list of jobs that need to
be done. This is particularly important when building a model such as
this where you will be carrying out
your own conversion and not relying on an aftermarket set to guide
you through the process.
Here is the list of tasks needed to
complete this model:
Assemble the basic Tamiya kit
following kit instructions.
Remove location points for initial
smoke discharger mounts, from
both sides of the turret.
Rebuild new six up, two down
smoke discharger mounts using
kit parts together with Evergreen
plasticard, rod and strip.
Detail mounts for turret stowage
bins with rod and strip.
Add fixing clamps to upper hull
for towing cables, right and left.
Replace towing cables with either
picture hanging wire or aftermarket
items (Karaya being used here).
Replace flag mounting tubes on
the turret side with fine brass
tubing.
Remove unarmoured section
of the side skirts from their
mounting rails and replace with
new sections cut from 0.5mm
plasticard. Scribe in joint lines
(carefully lining them up with
joints on preserved mounting rail)
and then detail with fine bolts
As with the running

gear, pigments
were applied to the
model over a wet
layer of Vallejo Flat
Varnish.
The rubber flaps hanging from the nose of the vehicle were made from lead foil hung from a length
of brass rod. These were painted Tamiya Rubber black and then oversprayed with a very thin mix of
Humbrol Dark Earth and AK Interactive Dust Effects. Once in place, the colour was blended away in
vertical strokes using a brush dampened with thinners. Several further layers of lighter and darker
earth shades flicked on using an old brush, finished them off.
created using a punch & die.

Add mounting rails to upper hull
for new skirts to be either folded
up as on the left-hand side, or
missing, as on the right.
Create new aerial mounts from
brass tubing and aerials from
0.3mm steel wire (Albion Alloys).
Detail stowage baskets with
Tamiyas aftermarket etched set.
Using Magic Sculp and Green
Stuff (see Used and abused
feature for more information)
sculpt rags and hessian strips for
gun barrel, turret and glacis plate.
Add camouflage netting using
fine surgical gauze (available
from chemist shop).
Add rolled tarpaulins to stowage
bin, again using Green Stuff.
Add wiring to cable reel using fine
copper wire.
Replicate hanging rubber mats

fixed to the lower edge of side
skirts and hanging down from
towing eyes on glacis plate. Build
from carefully cut sections of
lead foil, primed and painted with
Tamiya Rubber Black.
THIS FEATURE
Through this chapter we take you
through the building of this model
and reveal as many of the new
details that were added to the
model as we possibly can. All of
the additional features have been
created with very basic tools and
materials and as such, should
appeal to the developing modeller
keen to stretch out a little and
create something a touch more
advanced than a kit built straight
from the box.
01/08/2014 09:35

Over the painted
rags on the model,
Raw Umber and
Matt Black washes
were applied,
before blending
everything together
with misted coats
of Tamiya Khaki and
Buff. Dry pigments
and a little
drybrushing helped
complete the look of
these old, well-used
sheets.
All of the additional features

have been created with very
basic tools and materials and
as such, should appeal to the
developing modeller...
As with the rubber mats, the rear hull was further weathered with several layers
of splattered paint, each applied thinly with an old flat brush.
All of the aforementioned stages combined to create a filthy-looking rear hull. Coloured lights help to
break up the monotony of the finish. Note the anodised steel tow cables.
In order to recreate a delicate dusty finish on the upper hull, very thin layers of our Dark
Earth/Dust Effects colour were airbrushed around, details, panels and the like and then
left to dry for a few minutes. The colour was then wiped away using soft, flat brushes and
cotton buds moistened with white spirit to leave faint traces of dust around these features.
Dragging the paint down panels also imparted the look of rainwashed dust and dirt as can
be seen on the upper lid of this stowage bin.
Multiple layers of Khaki, Buff, NATO Green and Olive Drab acrylics were needed to bring
out the detail on the nets and rags. Some tea leaves were mixed with some PVA glue and
Vallejo USA Green and then stippled onto the nets to further accentuate the leaf detail
seen in the reference shots. Once dry, the nets were drybrushed with Humbrol Khaki Drill,
Grass Green and US Light Green. Dry pigments added the finishing touch.
01/08/2014 09:35
Further strips
of hessian were
cut out and then
fixed in place with
superglue, each
one being carefully
lifted and bent
backwards, to look
as though floating in
the wind.
Though as many of the new

features have been added to the
model as possible to reflect the
changes made to this version, the
belly armour now fitted to the 2A6M
(M for Mine-Resistant) has not
been fixed in place. The reason for
this is simply one of time and the
fact that with the rubber mats in
place, this addition would be very
hard to spot! Referral to images on
the Internet will point you in the right
direction should you wish to add
this new armour package, a thick
slab of plasticard covering most
bases, during its construction.
This then is our version of the
Bundeswehrs Leopard 2A6M we
hope you like it!
MODEL SPEC
A close up of the rear

hull reveals the carefully
painted tools and delicate
layers of dust. The tool
handles were painted with
Vallejo Weathered Wood
and then washed with Dark
Wash, manipulated into a
wood grain pattern with an
O brush dampened with
white spirit. The metalwork
was painted German Camo
Black Brown, rubbed with
graphite and the washed
with Humbrol Dark Earth
and Khaki Drill.
Having sprayed the

hull with layers of
Tamiya Buff and
the Dark Earth/Dust
Effects, a cotton
bud dampened with
thinners was used
to carefully remove
the dirt to reveal
the underlying
camouflage. Several
attempts were
made at this until
the results looked
natural, a final,
very thin overspray
with Khaki Drill
being used to blend
everything together.
TOOLS AND MODELLING

PRODUCTS USED
Tamiya Masking Tape
GF9 Super Glue
PRODUCTS
Magic Sculp
Green Stuff
Baby Talc
XF-1 Flat Black
XF-52 Flat Earth
XF-49 Khaki
XF-67 NATO Green
XF-71 Cockpit Green
XF-68 NATO Brown
XF-15 Flesh
XF-85 Rubber Black
XF-7 Flat Red
XF-84 Dark Iron
86 Light Olive
150 Forest Green
159 Khaki Drab
33 Matt Black
72 Khaki Drill
29 Dark Earth
119 Light Earth
Dark Wash
European Earth, Beech Sand pigments
Vallejo 169 Black
306 Dark Rubber
ACCESSORIES
Karaya Leopard Tow Cables TCR05
Tamiya Leopard 2A5/6 photo-etched
parts set - 35272
01/08/2014 09:35
CHAPTER 6 LEOPARD 2A6 IN DETAIL
LEOPARD 2A6 IN DETAIL

Rudi Meir walks us around the Royal Dutch Armys
latest MBT, providing plenty of ideas for those keen
to build this impressive vehicle, in miniature.
1. Headlight detail.
Note the recessed
lens and the
retaining wire.
1.
2.
3.
4.
2. There are
plenty of details
on the glacis plate
including spare track
links, grousers and
that towing shackle.
Note the weathering
on the shackle
and compare it to
the relatively new
paintwork that
surrounds it.
3. The indicator light
on the mudguard
is surrounded by
this delicate guard
rail. Note the
folded mirror and
appearance of the
unit markings.
4. The turret is a
mass of panels and
bolts. The anti-slip
is noticeable in this
shot and must be
added to any model
of this vehicle if not
already a feature of
the kit being used to
build it.
Our Leopard
2A6 basks in the
summer sun.
42 Chapter 6 - Leopard 2A6 In Detail
01/08/2014 09:36
5.
6.
7.
8.
5. Gunsight housing
reveals its optical
glass and open
doors.
6. Stowed
camouflage netting
in the right-hand,
turret bin. The split
pins and strapping
are both noteworthy
elements of this
shot.
7. The Dutch
Leopard 2A6s
feature the same
smoke dischargers
as the earlier A4/5.
Note the rubber
cabs and retaining
wires. Note also
that the racks are
painted separately
from the rest of
the vehicle, their
colouration in
this shot, being
different from
the surrounding
camouflage.
9.
10.
8. Power cables
run under the
discharger racks
to power each one.
Though hardly
visible in 1:35m
this would be an
interesting detail
to add.
9. The aerial
mounts are often
poorly replicated in
miniature heres
what they should
look like!
11.
12.
10. MG mount
and rail. Note the
locking handle.
11. The
commanders
Peri sight. The
cleanliness of this
very important
piece of kit is
noteworthy, as is
the red beading
that surrounds the
glass.
12. The massive
gun breach for the
Rheinmetall 120
mm gun.
01/08/2014 09:36
CHAPTER 6 LEOPARD 2A6 IN DETAIL

13.
14.
15.
16.
13. Either side

of the hull can
be found storage
lockers for many of
the smaller tools
needed to operate
this vehicle. Here
are the two that are
found on the righthand side.
14. Sprocket detail.
Note the highly
polished inner faces
of the track links
and their guide
teeth.
17.
18.
15. A close-up of
that open storage
locker reveals
some of its secrets
including gun
cleaning rods, fluid
bottles, axe and
cleaning brushes.
16. The exhaust
outlets are found on
the rear hull plate,
rather than sides
of the upper hull
as on the earlier,
Leopard 1.
17. Another open
bin with more tools.
These lockers have
helped to de-clutter
the Leopard 2
series, allowing
tools such as this
to be removed
from the exterior
of the vehicle and
carefully locked
away. Note labels
under each tool.
19.
20.
18. The cable real

fixed to the rear of
the turret. The wire
is very fine and
should be modelled
carefully in 1:35.
19 & 20. The empty
engine bay shows
off for the camera.
44 Chapter 6 - Leopard 2A6 In Detail
01/08/2014 09:36
21.
22.
23.
21. The driver

has the use of a
rewards facing
camera to allow
him to drive away
from danger
quickly without
the use of mirrors.
Here it is in detail.
25.
24.
26.
22 & 23. The

Leopard 2 is
propelled by the
MTU MB 873 diesel
engine. Here it is in
detail.
24. The clamps
that hold the tools
onto the engine
deck are virtually
identical to the size
and design of the
items used during
WWII.
25. The drivers
compartment
is compact and
functional.
27.
28.
26. The Leopard

2A6 is a wonderful
looking machine
malevolent beauty
in action.
27. A view through
the commanders
hatch reveals how
tight the space is,
even inside a large
vehicle such as
this. The black item
is the gunners
seat, his position
being down and
forward of the
commander.
29.
30.
28. Another view

of those polished
tracks
29. Gun Barrel
detail. Note the
textured surface.
30. A complete
view of the empty
engine bay.
01/08/2014 09:36
CHAPTER 7 DENMARKS BIG CAT
n the year 2000, the Danish

Army Command signed a
contract with Krauss-Maffei
Wegmann company to upgrade
51 of their Leopard 2A4 to the
2A5 DK standard, the upgrade
incorporating features from both
the German and Dutch versions,
as well as the Swedish STV122.
Most of these upgrades deal with
passive armour and crew protection, auxiliary electrical generator
and even the future upgrade to the
longer L55 120mm cannon (or even
the proposed 140mm gun).
All of these modifications will give
the 2A5DK a service life up to at
least 2025.
IN MINIATURE
Initially I was hoping to build the
HobbyBoss Leopard straight from
the box, with only some very minor
detailing, but as construction got
underway, it soon became clear
that the accuracy and quality of
detailing and parts was less than
acceptable.
After a quick conversation with
Spencer, I got the green light to
use the Tamiya hull in place of the
HobbyBoss item, which is where
most of the problem areas lay.
Thanks to the near identical parts
breakdown from the two manufacturers swapping and mixing
parts was a very simple procedure.
Detailing was still kept to an absolute minimum: a few items from a
Voyager photo-etched detailing set
designed for the Tamiya Leopard
2A5, along with some brass wire
to replace the solid grab handles
found on the hull. Lastly, the turret
periscopes were made using party
confetti to simulate the laser-proof
coating seen on the real items.
These were all fixed in place using
low odour superglue for prevent
fogging of these parts.
DENMARKS BIG CAT

John Murphy combines Tamiya
and Hobbyboss kits to create the
impressive Danish Leopard 2A5DK
46 Chapter 7 - Denmarks Big Cat
01/08/2014 09:37
01/08/2014 09:37
On initial assembly of the Hobby

Boss 2A5DK hull, all seemed well!
On the glacis plate, the problem is that HobbyBoss have

In this comparison photo of the appliqu panel fitted to the
confused the self-adhesive grip tape sections with some form Tamiya 2A5 hull, we can clearly see it is a flush fit.
of raised detail. This prevents the appliqu armour panel
from laying flat on the glacis plate.
Again we can see the difference in detail between the road

wheels. The Tamiya rims and bolt detail is just so much
more refined.
Fit issues started to arise once the DK

specific parts began to be attached to the
generic 2A5 hull piece. Here we can see the
poor fit of the APU housing on the right rear
corner of the hull.
Here we can see the difference in detail between the

HobbyBoss sprocket (left) and the Tamiya item on the right!
In these two photos we can see how the grip tape panels are way too thick on the HobbyBoss hull. At this point I decided to
proceed with construction using the Tamiya hull, as correcting the HB part would involve too much work.
HobbyBoss parts along with photo-etched parts from Voyager and brass wire handles are
being used to detail the hull. The copper cable comes in the Voyager photo-etched detail set.
The lower rear hull plate has to be taken from the HB kit as this part differs from the
German version depicted in the Tamiya kit. Note the drivers reversing camera at the top
centre of the engine grilles.
01/08/2014 09:37
The smoke dischargers received some extra detailing in the

form of new caps and retaining chains from the Voyager
photo-etched set and some plastic card detailing to the
mounting brackets.
A small piece of confetti has been cut to size and fitted to

the Commanders independent viewer, to simulate the laser
proof coating on the optics of the real thing.
This shot gives a good example of what

has been used from the Tamiya and HB kits.
The hardest part was cutting the rear of the Tamiya hull
to accommodate the APU as seen on the Danish vehicles.
The prominent weld seams are missing from the turret lifting
eyes, so these were added using thin strips of plastic card.
The HB front indicators are poorly detailed and so I opted

to swap them for a couple of resin items I had in the spares
box from an old defunct Hong Kong Creation Workshop
Swedish STV 122 conversion. The guards are fashioned from
thin copper wire.
Weapon of choice
for assembly of this
kit: Gunze Sangyo
Mr Cement S.
They were then softened with liquid cement and then the
weld effect simulated by stippling with a Micro-chisel
Due to the extra armour package fitted to the bow of the DK,
the Tamiya side skirts will need modifying. This is simply a
case of removing the first section on each side with a razor
saw and attaching the HB parts.
The Leopard is now

ready for paint. The
Model Point turnedaluminium and resin
barrel really is an
improvement over
the kit barrel.
19/08/2014 14:22
Individual panels and portions

of the Leopard are masked
off in preparation for applying
highlights in the form of the
Modulation technique.
After an initial coat of automotive acrylic grey primer,
the model received a solid coat of green using a mix of
LifeColor's IDF Green and Game's Yellow ink. I found this
combination offered a very close match to the distinctive
green used by the Danish Army.
Here we can see the Modulation effect in place.

To achieve this, we used
a combination of Game's
yellow ink but this time
using a lighter green in the
form of AK Interactive's
4B0 Highlight colour.
This paste is
applied to the
wheel rims and
repeatedly stippled
to ensure it dries to
a rough texture.
Before continuing with the rest of the painting
and weathering, the running gear receives a
coat of dust and mud. To start with the wheel
hubs are coated with Pigment Fixer before
being sprinkled with European Earth using a
large make-up brush.
To create the damp fresh mud effect, a mix

of Wet effects Fluid and a dark earth pigment
are mixed together.
Here we can
see a completed
wheel. The smaller
splashes are
applied by 'flicking'
on the same mud
mix with the aid of
an old toothbrush.
The black camouflage pattern

is applied using a dark grey,
rather than pure black to
allow for scale affect.
WILDER Products Takk

is used to define the
camouflage patterns.
With the basic camouflage, markings and some initial airbrush dust effects in place, it is time to add the first of
the washes. For this wash, we are using an enamel dark brown wash intended for green camouflaged vehicles.
01/08/2014 09:37
For the rest of the dust weathering effects, a combination of these

products is used and applied in thin layers using an airbrush to
ensure a controlled and gradual build-up.
The model covered in its initial layer of dust.
Once this enamel dust effect has had some time to dry,
streaking is added by first dampening the surface and then
carefully dragging down over the surfaces using a soft chisel
edged brush.
Finally tiny splashes and splatter effects are added

by first flicking on a dust colour using light dust
pigment mixed with pigment fixer. This is then
repeated using a much darker pigment mixed with
more pigment fixer. The fixer will ensure it adheres
well to the surface of the model.
Further streaking is added using a buff coloured oil

paint and the same soft bristled chisel brush.
Careful painting and

weathering helps create
a truly impressive replica
of this imposing vehicle.
01/08/2014 09:37
CHAPTER 8 THE LEOPARD C2 IN CANADIAN SERVICE
THE LEOPARD C2 IN
CANADIAN SERVICE
Anthony Sewards provides some
detailed background information for
modellers keen to build the MEXAS,
in miniature.
he Canadian Leopard 1
C2 is an updated German
Leopard 1A5 turret added
to the original hulls from
1978 with the new turrets fitted with
the Leopard 2 fire control EMES
18 fire-control system, which was
developed in Germany in the 1980s.
The 105 mm L7A3 gun is capable
of engaging targets day and night,
while on the move under adverse
weather conditions, through the
use of a fully stabilized fire control
system with an integrated thermal
sight imaging system and laser
range-finder. The Leopard C2
Tank is also fitted with a gunner's
secondary fire control system and
a commander's fire control system.
It has two 7.62 mm C6 FN machine
guns. One is mounted inside the
turret acting as a coaxial MG and
another can be mounted externally
on either the commander's or the
loader's, station.
The Leopard C2 is also fitted with
two banks of four smoke grenade
launchers on the turret that can fire
smoke or high explosive grenades.
The tank may be sealed-off
against nuclear-biological-chemical
(NBC) threats. It is a minimummaintenance armoured fighting
vehicle and complete replacement
of the engine and transmission is
possible in 30 minutes under field
conditions. When properly fitted
with a conning tower, it is capable
of deep-fording or submerged fording where riverbanks are prepared
for exit and entry.
When the Canadian C2 first
entered service in November
1999, the tank fleet went from 114
main battle tanks to 66 completed
Leopards. In 2003 Canada had
decided to replace its aging
Leopard tanks with the light
armoured vehicle (LAV) III Mobile
Gun System (MGS). This MGS platform was to be a wheeled platform
mounting a 105 mm main gun with
an auto loader.
With this decision going ahead to
replace the tracked Leopard fleet
with a wheeled fleet, the department
of national defence (DND) started
to dispose of the Leopard 1 fleet
with selling to companies in North
America twenty-three Leopard hulls.
Opposite: A closeup of the front

quarter of the
MEXAS reveals
a number of
interesting details
including the rusty
panels, damaged,
track pads and tyres
and the thickness
of the metal sheet
connecting the side
armour, with the
glacis plate.
Below left:
Covered in dust
and additional
stowage, the
MEXAS looks right
at home amongst
the dust and dirt
of Afghanistan.
Below right:
Seeing so many
Leopards so close
together must
have been a sight
to behold! Note the
detail variations in
this shot.
Museums were provided with three

examples. With two runners going
to the Bovington Tank museum, one
to the Canadian War museum, and
two going as a gate guardians at
Canadian Forces bases. There were
twenty-one Leopards designated as
hard targets for gunnery practice.
ENTER THE MEXAS

This all changed in the spring
of 2006, when the International
Stabilization Assistance Force (ISAF)
Canadian Afghanistan commitment,
switched from the northern region
of Kabul, back to the province
of Kandahar. With the Canadian
combat operations and protracted
counter-insurgency battles across
Southern Afghanistan causing a lot
of Canadian casualties (plus the
arduous terrain that the Canadian
Battle Group fought over) they did
not have the correct assets and
combat enablers (tanks) to fight
in a built up area. The Canadian
Government announced on the 15th
of September 2006 the imminent
deployment of an enhancement
package to better facilitate reconstruction and stabilization efforts
in Afghanistan. In addition to an
Infantry Company designated to
serve as close protection for the
provincial reconstruction team (PRT),
the enhancement package was to
include a squadron of Leopard C2
tanks from Lord Strathconas Horse
(Royal Canadians) LdSH(RC) and
an Armoured Engineer troop from 1
Combat Engineer Regiment (1 CER),
both based in western Canada.
The Canadian Army generated,
trained and deployed a 17-tank
squadron and armoured Engineer
troop, across the globe within six
52 Chapter 8 - The Leopard C2 In Canadian Service
01/08/2014 09:46
TIMELINE OF CHANGES FOR THE C2 MEXAS
weeks of receiving the deployment

warning order. The first Leopard
C2 arriving at the Kandahar Airfield
(KAF) on 3 October 2006. With B
squadron as the first squadron
deployed they had to conduct
gunnery checks and crew training,
before the squadron was to be
deployed outside the wire.
The deployed Leopards were
equipped The Modular Expandable
Armor System (MEXAS) which
is a ceramic composite armour
developed by the German company IBD Deisenroth Engineering.
The MEXAS kits supplied for
the Leopards were of a different
system that was of metal type
composite armour. On the 2nd of
December 2006 (Afghan time) the
Canadian Leopards rolled out of
thier Kandahar Airfield compound
heading for the Panjwaii District and
a forward operating base named
Masum Ghar.
On the 3rd of December 2006 the
C2 MEXAS Leopards stationed in
Kandahar entered the field, marking
the first time since the Korean War
that a Canadian armoured squadron had sent tanks into an active
war zone; they fired their guns
in combat for the first time in as
many years on the following day in
response to a Taliban rocket attack.
The deployed tank squadrons were
in constant combat operations from
late 2006 till July 2011.
The Canadian C2 MEXAS
armoured squadron was intended
to provide convoy protection,
supporting Canada's Provincial
Reconstruction Teams and other
organizations equipped with lighter
vehicles, and combat operations.
The unit tasked with providing

a tank squadron for each of the
rotations for combat operations,
was The Lord Strathconas Horse
(Royal Canadians) (except for
the last rotation which came from
the French specking Canadian
Armoured unit) The Strathconas
are now Canadas only heavy
tank unit equipped with Leopard
2s based at Steele Barracks,
Edmonton Alberta. With other
Leopard 2s stationed at the Royal
Canadian Armoured School.
The first Leopard tank Squadrons
deployed from the Lord Strathconas
Horse was B Squadron, then A
Squadron and they deployed with
just with C2 MEXAS Leopards. The
Next tank squadron, C Squadron
was combined in late September
2007 with the twenty Leopard
2A6Ms with slat bar type armour.
The tank squadron in late 2010
added five of the new Leopard
2A4M's. The Canadian tank squadron operated with the three different
Leopards until they were pulled from
combat operations. The C2 MEXAS
with the mine ploughs, mine rollers
and the dozers were used alongside
the Leopard 2's, until a bracket was
installed for the Leopard 2A6M to
mount the rollers.
For most operations in
Afghanistan, a tank troop was
stationed at the FOB to act as a
reserve and Quick Reaction Force
(QRF). The troop had to be at 75%
readiness at all times. This is the
time when the troops could conduct
needed track work and repair.
Some troops would work independent of the whole SQN while
deployed on combat operations.
Late August early September 2006

17 Leopard 1 C2 tanks designated as deployable and work to
repair and refit starts.
Once complete MEXAS armour was to be installed on the
Leopards, Ballard hooks installed for transport.
29th September 2006
The seventeen Leopards are shipped via transport plan to
Kandahar airfield.
3rd October 2006
The Tank assistant team goes through each tank and confirms
that they are ready to go.
10th October 2006
B Squadron advance party arrives at KAF.
November 2006
Most of the Canadian tank squadron have been deployed and
have taken over their tanks and start to prepare them for combat operations. Live fire and tactical exercises are completed in
and around the Kandahar airfield.
3rd December 2006
The tank squadron deployed to the forward operating base
( Masum Ghar) to conduct operations in support to the
Canadian Infantry battle groups.
January 2007
The front sand shields are attached to help cut down on dust
washing over the turret while on the move. Rubber matting and
sheet metal were used to finish this field modification.
February 2007
The modification for the Thales electric counter measure
(ECM) is fitted, just behind the loaders area. A Squadron of the
Strathconas started to arrive 18th of February for handover.
March 2007
All troop warrant call signs fitted with mine roller attachment
adapter.
April 2007
News of the new Leopard 2 A6M fleet coming to the
Afghanistan.
May 2007
All Leopards received new radiators while stationed at the FOB
(Masum Ghar).
June 2007
Starting with call sign 13B the thermal cover and cooling units
are starting to be added. Each Leopard was shipped back to
Kandahar airfield for refit.
July 2007
Modification for the Saab barracuda crew umbrella fitted
to call sign 13A. End of July the last call signs were fitted
with thermal covers and cooling units. Crews were wearing
cooling suits to keep their body core temperature down in
the Leopards. Average temps were in the 50 degrees area,
plus inside the turret would be 5/10 degrees warmer. MEXAS
plough and Dozer tanks have new armour added to the front
area due to frontal threats.
August 2007
New fleet of Leo 2A6Ms start to arrive at KAF.
10th September 2007
A Squadron of the Strathconas start handover with C Squadron
Strathconas.
October 2007
SAAB Barracuda umbrellas installed on turrets of Leopard
2s that Canada fielded. At the end of combat operations, all
Leopards were brought home, a C2 CFR 78-85139 was the last
Canadian Leopard to leave KAF in 2011.
2008
A mine protection package was added to the bottom of the
hull, requiring 72 hours of welding.
19/08/2014 14:24
CHAPTER 8 THE LEOPARD C2 IN CANADIAN SERVICE
FURTHER NOTES
A Squadron of the Lord
Strathconas Horse (Royal
Canadians) was the only Canadian
tank squadron to fight the whole
time while deployed from FebSept 2007, complete with only C2
MEXAS. This was also the bitterest
fighting of any rotation with the
loss of 26 Canadian soldiers from
the battle groups. The follow on
Canadian Tank Squadron rotations
had a mixture of the C2 MEXAS
Leopards and Leopard 2s, right up
to the end of combat operations in
July 2011.
All deployed Canadian Leopard
tanks and the MEXAS kits were
painted over in CARC green, but
there were a few hulls that had
the NATO three-tone paint. The
Leopard 1 after rebuilding to make
them into C2s, were first striped
down and sprayed with a TAN
primer, and then given the anti-slip
coating then painted in the CARC
green paint. So after some wear
and tear you would be able to see
the TAN primer underneath. MEXAS
kits were also primed in this same
Tan primer then CARC painted with
white MEXAS kit numbers added to
the back panel. Canada bought a
total of nineteen complete MEXAS
armour kits.
Once the combat operations were
Above left:
Additional stowage
fixed to the turret
bustle and the open
bin on the hull side,
are all details worth
modelling in 1:35.
Above right: A
factory-fresh
MEXAS ready for
service.
completed in July 2011, the tanks

had to be stripped of their MEXAS
armour, repaired and returned back
to Canada. They then went through
another rebuild series that took the
tanks apart and repaired them and
they received a fresh coat of paint.
Once complete they were re issued
and put back into service. Now
these same Leopards are being
repaired and set to disposal and an
uncertain future.
TAKOM C2 MEXAS TWEAK LIST NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART!
Seeing the newly

reworked Leopard
in its freshly applied
layer of CARC paint,
is a stark contrast
to the dusty,
weathered finishes
that would typify
their service in
Afghanistan.
This tweak list is compiled from

my firsthand knowledge as a C2
MEXAS crew commander. I commanded all four different types of
deployed C2 MEXAS during the
hardest fighting any of the Canadian
Tank squadrons faced throughout
the whole deployment of the tanks
in combat operations from late
December 2006 until July 2011. On
my tour with the combat deployed
C2 MEXAS tank squadron from
mid-February till mid-September we
lost twenty-six Canadians the most
of any rotation while conducting
combat operations.
Now the kit built out of the box,
will not represent a true combat
deployed version. Here is the
tweak list required to update the
kit. The kit will represent either the
Squadron/ Troop commanders &
troop Warrant officers tank. The
other C2 MEXAS in the troop of four
were mounted with an armoured
dozer and track wide mine plough.
1. The MRS (muzzle reference
sensor) located on the tip of the
barrel is was too small and is the
wrong size. The cover should be
50% bigger.
2. The canvas mantlet cover is
incorrect for a C2 version, should
have Velcro panels for the maintainers to work on the mantlet. The
mantlet sim-fire plate should be
25% larger and add I shaped
brackets.
3. The Commanders TRP sight
cover is small, will need to be 25%
larger. The TRP rubber seals require
to be spit apart to look like two flat
rings.
4. Leopard turret top should have a
coat of anti-skid added.
5. The MEXAS armour side panel
attachment pads (pucks) are not
correct, the bottom rear ones
should be tear-drop shaped. The
front pads should have additional ladder type brackets. With
the MEXAS armour removed you
should see the attachment mount
that would be fitted to the turret
(metal ladder bolted onto the turret
side, to swing the armour away
from turret for engine maintenance)
6. Top steel plate fitted on top of
the MEXAS armour should have a
coat of scale anti-skid.
7. Smoke grenade launchers missing chain for caps and launcher
wiring.
8. Side bore brush bin and signals
wire container on the left rear of the
turret right behind the loaders side.
Not all C2 MEXAS had them added.
9. The crew commanders area has
the wrong number of episcopes,
missing one. Both turret hatches
are missing combat lock hinges.
10. The left hand armoured plate
that mounts the bore brush and
signals wire container, needs to be
removed and replaced by the field
modified armoured plate to protect
the Thales electric counter measures unit. The ECM unit is missing
as well.
11. The antenna mounting units
(AMUs) are not the correct type, will
54 Chapter 8 - The Leopard C2 In Canadian Service
01/08/2014 09:46
need to be replaced.
12. Missing flag post mounts left
and right sides by the AMUs.
13. The GPS antenna mount
is wrong and will require to be
modified.
14. Rear back bin, will require a coat
of scale anti-skid on the top cover.
15. Right rear back bin stowage lid,
should have a red air recognition
panel attached to it. Standard on all
deployed C2 MEXAS.
16. Missing the antenna bag under
the back bin (not all had them
mounted)
17. Supplied Jerry cans are
incorrect shape.
18. The road wheels require back
plate, and the hubs are the wrong
shape.
19. The drivers armoured cover for
the episcopes require the wiper
cable.
20. Missing the fording plug posts
on left side of upper front hull.
21. Missing headlight cables.
22. The tow cables hull attachment
points are way too thick, PE would
fix this problem.
23. The rear drivers toolbox is
missing the locking chain and
stowage bracket and hinges are
incorrect.
24. The rear track adjustor tool
mounted on the rear deck to wrong.
We operated with a modified type
due to the Mexas side armour. This
tool was never mounted there on
the deployed versions.
25. The gun crutch or travel lock is
undersized by 25 %.
26. Tank telephone handle will
require to be replaced as they are
very noticeably L angled.
27. Will have to drill out gun crutch
spare position brackets.
28. Missing rear side skirt half-
Smaller detail
changes would
find their way
onto this standard
MEXAS before its
time was up on the
battlefield.
moon brackets on both sides of the

rear hull.
29. Mexas hull armour attachment
bolts should be hex bolts, not
round.
30. The C6 mount requires a gun
travel lock and not all had the MG
version. The barrel is missing the
barrel handle mount.
Markings
Below left: Fitted

with a thermal
cover over the
turret and dozer
blade, this is a fine
example of how the
MEXAS looked prior
to being replaced by
the newer 2A6. Note
the repositioned
lights.
Below right: Boom!
A Leopard C2
MEXAS lets fly
The only set of markings on the

sheet that are correct are the ones
for SHQ. The other marking are for
a combat deployed C2 MEXAS.
The troop markings were applied in
March/April 2007. The markings for
2nd Troop are incorrect for the kit.
The rear markings are from my C2
MEXAS which was the Dozer tank,
the tool box sticker. The Canadian
Forces Registration number just
below the toolbox is incorrect, it
should read 78-58132. The markings for 3rd troop are incorrect; they
never ever had the MEXAS side
armour markings.
The barrel marking that have the
Canadian Forces Registration last
three are and Squadron names

incorrect. By the time these C2
MEXAS entered into combat they
were crewed by another tank
squadron, almost all of these
names were erased.
The maple leaf decals should
have had two different types. There
should have been added with
another set with the leaves outlined
in white.
Once again this list will address
most questions on building an
accurate version of the C2 MEXAS
as deployed in combat. To build
any particular C2 MEXAS that was
deployed you will need to do your
research as they all looked different.
If more information is required in
the way of photos and reference
a copy of the Canadian Leopard
Project DVD reference set of 2
DVDs full of close to 3,400 photos
and word documents that explain a
complete working history of the C2
MEXAS as deployed in Afghanistan
can be made available from myself.
(Anthony Sewards - author of the
Canadian Leopard Project).
01/08/2014 09:47
CHAPTER 9 CANADIAN DESERT CAT
he Modular Expandable
Armor System (MEXAS)
is a ceramic composite
armour developed by the
German company IBD Deisenroth
Engineering. MEXAS was introduced in 1994 and has been
applied on over 20,000 combat
vehicles worldwide.
The exact composition of
MEXAS is secret, but it is known
that MEXAS consist of a splinter
foil-like specialized Nylon, ceramics
(Aluminium oxide), and a backing
like kevlar. MEXAS also includes
spall-liner. MEXAS is normally not
the only protection of a vehicle, it is
normally overlaid on rolled homogeneous armour.
MEXAS exists in three versions.
MEXAS-L (light) offers protection
against small-calibre rounds and
can also be fitted on soft-skinned
vehicles like MAN military trucks.
MEXAS-M (medium) protects
the vehicle against auto cannon
and RPGs with HEAT warheads.
MEXAS-H is for use on tanks and
other heavy armoured vehicles.
MEXAS is used on several vehicles of the German Army including
the ATF Dingo, the Panzerhaubitze
2000, Fuchs 1A7 and the Leopard .
Vehicles may be fitted with
MEXAS prior to deployment
on peace-keeping missions.
Norwegian M113s and German
MAN trucks have been fitted with
MEXAS prior to their deployment in
KFOR. Some Canadian Leopard 1s
have been upgraded with MEXAS.
Uparmoured Canadian Leopard 1s
have been used in KFOR and as
part of the ISAF in Afghanistan.
CANADIAN DESERT CAT

Brett Green updates Takoms 1:35
scale Leopard C2 MEXAS to combat
standards using resin, photo-etched
and scratch built parts.
TAKOMS 1:35 LEOPARD C2 MEXAS

Takoms 1:35 scale Leopard C2
MEXAS was released in February
2014. This kit represents the
Canadian Leopard C2 after it had
received its additional MEXAS
armour but before it was actually
deployed in Afghanistan.
The box is packed with a whopping 1,105 parts, but this includes
710 parts for the individual-link
tracks alone. If you subtract these,
you are left with a much more manageable 253 parts in tan and green
coloured plastic, two parts in clear,
five additional plastic parts for an
Afghan figure, a length of string and
a photo-etched fret with 17 parts.
56 Chapter 9 - Canadian Desert Cat
01/08/2014 10:05
The box is packed with a whopping

1,105 parts, but this includes 710 parts for
the individual-link tracks alone...
01/08/2014 10:05

The level of detail is generally very good, with crisp detail
moulded to the larger parts. Engine
deck vents are moulded solid but
will look good after painting and
weathering. Surface detail is by way
of crisply recessed panel lines and
raised bolts, rivets, tie downs and
more. Generally, the kit appears to
be engineered for simple assembly.
The only exception to this rule is
the tracks. The 710 parts are made
up from 350 polythene end caps
and 360 black plastic parts for the
track pads and guide teeth. In theory, these five-pieces-per-link should
be a press fit no glue required.
Moulding quality is very high with
no sink marks or ejector pin marks
anywhere they will be visible on the
finished model. The price for these
clean surfaces is large and sometimes inconvenient sprue attachment points. This is compounded
by very soft plastic, so you will need
to take care to avoid gouging out
chunks or damaging sharp edges
when removing parts from the
sprues and cleaning them up.
The main areas of the model are
moulded in green plastic, while the
MEXAS upgrade parts are supplied
on tan sprues.
Some parts are simplified including the vision blocks and the road
wheels, which do not have any
detail at all on the rear faces. They
look like wheels from the 1970s in
this respect.
The package is rounded out with
two clear parts for the headlight
lenses, a photo-etched fret, a length
of string and an Afghan holding
up a mobile phone a dangerous
action if ever Ive seen one!
The individual
torsion bars.
No detail on the
back of the road
wheels.
The finished
suspension in the
lower hull.
The suspension is fully workable.
Large attachment points for the drive sprockets.
the opportunity to build lots of nice

new release models. One of the few
curses is lack of time. I shuddered
at the thought of assembling the
700+ track pieces so I looked for a
faster solution. I checked to see if
the well-detailed one-piece flexible
tracks from Mengs recent 1:35
scale Leopard 1A3 / 1A4 kit would
fit Takoms C2 MEXAS. To my utter
delight, the tracks fitted the drive
sprockets perfectly. As a bonus, the
length was perfect too. I therefore
traded in a couple of days of
tedious track assembly for the five
minutes it took to glue and clamp
MENGs flexible track lengths.

There is some margin for error
with the fit of the MEXAS armour
sections, as the locating points are
a bit vague in places. I recommend
that all the pieces are glued in
place within a short enough time
period to adjust the fit before the
glue sets.
Apart from this, assembly was fast
and easy. A little more detail in the
instructions would have been helpful
here and there, especially around
areas such as smoke dischargers
and guard rails, but in general the
kit was quite impressive.
BASIC ASSEMBLY
In general, basic assembly is fast
and straightforward. I started with
the running gear and its torsion
bar suspension. If you are careful
with placement of glue, precisely
delivering a spot only to the square
locating peg, the suspension will
remain fully workable. The wheels
will rotate thanks to the polythene
caps trapped between the halves
too. I decided not to add detail to
the back faces of the road wheels,
as it would be difficult to see under
the vehicle when it was sitting on
its tracks.
One of the blessings of this job is
The tracks were

glued and clamped
while they set.
Full-length flexible tracks were taken from MENGs

1:35 scale Leopard 1A3/1A4. Detail is excellent.
Fit around the drive sprockets and the track length

was perfect.
01/08/2014 10:05
The fit of the MEXAS armour

is a bit vague in places, but
the sections may be adjusted
for a gap-free result.
Hull MEXAS armour

pieces were taped
while the glue dried.
I added non-slip coating to the

turret roof and the top of the rear
stowage bins by masking off the
areas with Tamiya tape and slopping on Citadel Astrogranite texture
paint using an old brush. This thick
liquid includes fine and chunky
grains. I thought the larger grains
looked a bit overscale, but they
were easy to remove by firmly running a fingertip over the dry paint.
This was a very easy method of
applying non-slip texture, and I will
certainly use it again.
Some of the sprue

attachment points
are large and
inconvenient. The
plastic is very soft
too, so take care!
The upper and

lower hull parts
were clamped
while the glue set.
The gun barrel and

MEXAS mantlet
armour. Fit was a
bit vague between
these two pieces
as well.
COMBAT READY
If you want to build a pristine vehicle immediately after the MEXAS
upgrade, you will be ready for
paint right now. However, I wanted
my model to represent one of the
Canadian Leopard C2 MEXAS
tanks operationally deployed in
Afghanistan from 2006. For this, I
needed to add some details.
Legends offer an upgrade set
that provides most of the parts that
you will need for an operational
Leopard C2 MEXAS. This is Item
No. LF1273. This was designed to
enhance the Legends MEXAS conversion, but I can confirm that all
the parts fit this new Takom kit too.
Before I added the kits MEXAS
armour to the turret, the rear panel
The distinctive
stowage bins
feature nice crisp
raised mouldings.
The turret MEXAS

armour elements.
Clamps were helpful

to keep everything in
place here too.
on the port side was cut off with a

razor saw. The resulting scar was
filled with Milliput White two-part
epoxy putty and sanded flat the
next day after it had set.
The resin parts include an ECM
device, three jerry cans and two
antenna bases in the correct style,
a lower turret stowage bag, a new
muzzle and smaller detail parts.
The two photo-etched frets contain
new front fenders and mudflaps,
jerry can racks, cooling unit, chains

for the smoke discharger caps,
padlocks and more.
Most of these parts are a simple
drop fit replacement or addition.
There is a bit of tricky folding
required for the front mudguards,
the cooling unit and the mount for
the ECM device, but a few minutes
of trial and error for each of these
sub-assemblies resulted in good fit.
I added a few other details
Turret parts ready

for assembly.
01/08/2014 10:05

Kneadatite was also used to
make the inspection panels
on the mantlet cover.
The kit does not include non-slip surfaces. The turret roof
and top of the stowage bins were masked with Tamiya
tape in preparation for the new surface texture.
from scratch, including inspection

panels and velcro attachments
for the mantlet cover; and an Air
Identification panel for the top of
the stowage bins. These were all
formed from Kneadatite YellowGreen Epoxy putty. A length was
cut from the strip of putty, then the
two colours kneaded enthusiastically until they were a uniform green.
The ball of pliable putty was rolled
out using a glass jar sprinkled with
baby powder to avoid sticking. The
resulting thin sheet was then cut
to shape and carefully placed on
the surface of the model. I wore
thin surgical gloves while cutting
and placing the impressionable
putty to avoid fingerprints.
I also attempted to build a new
Commanders visor from sheet
plastic to replace the kits undersized photo-etched part, but in the
end I was not happy with it.
Stowed camp beds were scratch
built from strips of square and
angle profile Evergreen plastic, with
Milliput fabric rolled around the
folded frame assembly.
Citadel Astrogranite texture paint was

used for the non-slip texture. It was
slathered on with an old brush.
An Air Identification panel

was made from Kneadatite
two-part yellow-green
epoxy putty.
PAINT ANY COLOUR

SO LONG AS ITS GREEN
A number of reference photos show
the roof of these C2 Leopards to
be heavily worn. In fact, the paint is
often scuffed back to reveal large
areas of yellowish primer under
the anti-slip coating. This was too
tempting to resist.
After a coat of Tamiya Grey
Primer, I sprayed the top of the
turret roof and the stowage bins
basically any surface with non-slip
texture with a generous coat of
Tamiya XF-4 Yellow Green.
Once completely dry, the yellow paint was sprayed with Mig
Productions Absolute Chipping
Acrylic Solution. This is a substitute

for aerosol hairspray that is usually
used as a medium for chipping.
The thin clear liquid may be tipped
straight into the paint cup of the
airbrush and applied more precisely
than hairspray.
To create the distinctive green
camouflage, I used Lifecolors acrylic Easy 3 4BO Green pack. For nice
solid coverage I find that Lifecolor
acrylics are best mixed with only
15-20% thinners a much lower
ratio than I would usually use for
Tamiya or Gunze acrylics. The paint
will look quite thick in the airbrush
cup, but it should spray reasonably
well, although a few dabs to the
Legends from
Korea offer a
Leopard C2A1
MEXAS upgrade
to operational
standards.
Legends resin parts.
Two photo-etched frets are also included.
Coming together now.
The turret roof with non-slip texture

plus Legends resin scopes.
The rear port side stowage bin
was cut in two with a razor saw
to prepare for the new ECM
device and its cover.
The rough edges of

the cut were filled and
smoothed with Milliput
two-part epoxy putty.
19/08/2014 14:26
Raised rivets were cut from the kit mudguards before the supplemental
photo-etched parts were fitted.
tip with a thinners-soaked Q-tip

from time to time may be required.
Although the set provides paler and
darker shades for variation, I simply
applied the base shade (labelled
4BO Ground Colour), UA259, as
I thought that the dust and worn
upper surfaces would offer more
than enough interest.
CHIPPING
Now it was time to revisit the turret
roof, which had been previously
prepared with a barrier of Mig
Productions Absolute Chipping
medium between the yellowgreen primer and the dark green
camouflage.
I used a damp stiff brush to
gradually loosen the top coat.
Initially, this worked well, revealing
spots and flecks of yellow green,
helped by the texture of the non-slip
coating. Inside a minute though,
this gentle rubbing started to peel
back larger areas of paint not the
effect I was looking for at all! I suspect that the problem here is the
composition of the Lifecolor paint,
which almost has a vinyl quality
to it. This is fine when the paint is
intact the surface is smooth and
tough but it does not appear to
suit chipping. Next time I want to
chip a vehicle, I will use a topcoat
of Tamiya acrylics instead.
In order to make the big chunks
of peeled-back paint look a bit
more convincing, I tore of a small
corner of a kitchen sponge and
dabbed first dark green paint over
the effected area, then repeated the
process with Tamiya XF-4 Yellow
Green. The sponge was dipped
sparingly in the paint and wiped
almost dry before this second
Matching
lengths of
square and
angle profile
strip were cut
using NWSLs
The Chopper.
The cover for the ECM device, complete with punched

plastic rivets.
The resin and photo-etched ECM device.

An aerial from copper wire has been added.
These were glued together to

represent folding cots, stowed
on the side of the turret bins.
round of chipping commenced. In

the end, I was reasonably happy
with the effect.
UNDERWEAR AND TEAR

Before the dusty fun could begin, I
wanted to deliver a lightly weathered
finish on the overall olive green paint.
First, a 50/50 mix of Tamiya XF-1
Flat Black and XF-64 Red Brown
was thinned heavily and carefully

sprayed in shadow areas and along
major panel line. Next, the tracks
and tyres were painted with a 50/50
mix of Vallejo Panzer Aces 337
Highlight Ger (Black) and Model
Colour 70995 German Grey, applied
with a medium sized paintbrush.
I usually start the paint job with a
black coat on the running gear, but I
The photo-etched cooling unit and ECM cover, as well as the new Kneadatite covers have been added to the cot frames. Straps for
antenna mounts; all supplied in the Legends upgrade.
the resin jerry cans and for the stowage were cut from Tamiya tape.
Legends photo-etched fenders, mud flaps and chains for the

smoke dischager caps.
Detail on the roof of the turret.
01/08/2014 10:07

dispensed with that stage this time.
Even so, painting the tracks was
fast and easy. The front track skirts
were masked and sprayed with a
50/50 mix of Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black
and XF-64 Red Brown.
The raw Vallejo 4BO Green was
quite bright, so I decided to tone
it down with SIN Industries (Mig)
Filter, P245 Green for Allied Tanks.
This lent a subtle shading effect to
recessed detail and a very slight
uneven finish to larger areas of
colour.
The model after a

coat of Tamiya Grey
Primer straight from
the can.
DECALS AND FLAT COAT

I bought a set of Echelon Leopard
C2A1 MEXAS decals, item no.
D356049. The model was selectively
sprayed with a couple of coats of
Future floor polish over the areas
that would be receiving the decals.
The decals were then applied,
including the barrel ring. They all
behaved perfectly under a coat of
Solvaset setting solution.
As sometimes happens with the
combination of a Future undercoat
and Solvaset overcoat, a few
patches of milky white appeared
when the decals had set. These
were quickly dealt with by simply
spraying another coat of Future
floor polish over the top of the
effected areas.
My flat coat of choice recently
has been Alclad IIs Klear Kote. This
comes in Gloss, Matte and Flat.
This time I wanted a totally lustreless
surface so I used Klear Kote Flat.
As usual, the liquid was sprayed
undiluted for a dead flat finish.
MIG Productions
Absolute Chipping was
sprayed onto the turret
roof before the base
camouflage coat of
Lifecolor acrylic 4BO
Green. This was then
chipped off with a stiff
wet brush.
The effect was supplemented with Tamiya XF-4

Yellow Green applied with a sponge. This was
followed by sponged 4BO Green.
The mudflaps were masked off and sprayed scale

black a 50/50 mix of Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black and
XF-64 Red Brown.
A 50/50 mix of Tamiya XF-1

Flat Black and XF-64 Red
Brown was thinned heavily
and carefully sprayed in
shadow areas and along
major panel line.
DUST, ANYONE?
One of the defining characteristics
of these operational Leopard C2A1
MEXAS tanks is a heavy layer of
dust, especially along the sides
and rear of the hull. Some vehicles
almost look like they are finished
in a two-tone tan and green finish,
such is the solid layer of fine dust.
I started with a very lightly
sprayed coat of Tamiya X-21 Flat
Base and XF-57 Buff, mixed about
50/50 and heavily thinned with
isopropylene alcohol. The Flat Base
lightens the colour of the paint and
adds a chalky quality to this stage
of the finishing. The pale dust base
was selectively sanded back, with
4000 grade Micromesh.
This was followed by streaks and
Tamiya XF-4 Yellow Green was sprayed onto the roof.
The model was

selectively sprayed
with a couple of
coats of Future
floor polish over the
areas that would
be receiving the
decals.
01/08/2014 10:06
Echelon Leopard
C2A1 MEXAS
decals, item no.
D356049.
light oversprays of heavily thinned

XF-57 Buff. The effect was built up
gradually, layer upon layer, with
occasional sanding here and there.
The sandy dust colour was applied
more heavily in areas such as the
lower track guards, the rear hull and
the front of the hull.
Next, the rear hull deck was
sprinkled with a blend of Mig
Pigments - P054 Alkaline Dust and
P415 Light European Earth. The
same mix was much more sparingly
applied to the turret roof and top
of the stowage bins. The pigments
were fixed with a low-pressure
spray of mineral turpentine (enamel
thinners).
The slurry of pigments on the
engine deck was now oversprayed
with a translucent coat of Buff.
Upon re-examining reference photos, I decided that the dust was too
heavy on the turret sides so these
were sanded back lightly with 3000
and 4000 grit Micromesh cloths.
Details were brush painted

with Vallejo acrylics.
Alclad II Klear Kote

Matt was sprayed
undiluted for a dead
flat finish.
The dust effect started with

a very lightly sprayed coat
of Tamiya X-21 Flat Base
and XF-57 Buff, mixed about
50/50 and heavily thinned with
isopropylene alcohol.
This was followed by streaks

and light oversprays of
heavily thinned XF-57 Buff.
The effect was built up
gradually, layer upon layer.
The rear hull deck was sprinkled with a blend

of Mig Pigments P054 Alkaline Dust and P415
Light European Earth and fixed with a lowpressure spray of enamel thinners.
The slurry of pigments

on the engine deck was
now oversprayed with a
translucent coat of Buff.
The wheels and tracks were

treated to a stippled application
of Easy Mud Item No. 21104
Pacific Beach (Buff).
The dust effect was scrubbed
back on the upper turret sides.
01/08/2014 10:06

YET MORE WEATHERING!
The wheels and tracks were treated
to a stippled application of Easy
Mud Item No. 21104 Pacific
Beach (Buff). The side vents were
airbrushed with a thin mix of Tamiya
acrylic XF-1 Flat Black and XF-64
Red Brown, representing the typical
soot and exhaust seen in this area.
GO FIGURE
Djiti Productions has recently
released a nice 1:35 scale
Canadian Tank Crew figure that I
thought would lend some further
interest and a sense of scale.
The figure is supplied in four
resin pieces, including separate
arms and a head cast with helmet
and microphone in place. Casting
quality is excellent, and the pose
is relaxed and natural. This is an
impressive product.
Clean-up and assembly was fast,
with only a few smears of Tamiya
Surfacer needed where the arms
meet the torso. The head was not
attached at this stage, but both
the torso and neck were drilled out
to accept a toothpick handle for
painting.
The head was prepared with
Tamiya Fine White Primer (I find
that flesh-coloured paints cover
better over white); while the body
was sprayed with Grey Primer. Both
primers were shot straight from the
spray can.
The face and hands received
a base coat of Tamiya XF-15 Flat
Flesh followed by very thin lines
applied to the lips and eyes with
heavily thinned Vallejo Panzer
Aces acrylic 337 Highlight Ger.
(Black), which is actually a dark
brown shade. The flesh areas
next received a wash of Rowney
Georgian Oil Paint 221 Burnt Sienna
thinned with mineral turpentine. This

thin wash settles in low-lying area
and also delivers a ruddy tint to the
pale acrylic paint.
The uniform was always going
to be a challenge. The modern
Canadian desert uniform is a threecolour digital pattern, with patches
of muddy light grey-brown and
smaller digital squiggles of dark
brown over a base of light sand. It
would be impractical to reproduce
the tiny digital shapes in this scale
(for me, anyway), so I resigned
myself to painting approximate
patches and squiggles.
The base uniform colour is Vallejo
Tamiya XF-57 Buff, with dry-brushed
Vallejo Model Color 847 Dark Sand
over the top. The two uniform mottle
colours are Vallejo Panzer Aces
315 Light Mud, followed by smaller
areas of 337 Highlight Ger. (Black)
lightened with 315 Light Mud.
I found a few photos that showed
Canadian troops wearing green
body armour over their sand-coloured uniforms. The body armour
started with a dark mixture of Vallejo
Model Colour 70895 Gunship
Green and 70995 German Grey,
which was highlighted with the
straight Gunship Green and finally
dry-brushed with a paler shade. The
straps were painted Vallejo Panzer
Aces 330 Highlight Russ. II Tkcr,
with the shoulder mesh painted
German Grey.
After painting, I thought that the
uniform still looked stark and flat, so
I decided to add a very thin wash.
My choice was Mig Productions
P222 Neutral Wash, which is a
dirty medium grey-brown colour.
I thinned the wash further with
mineral turpentine and brushed it
onto the pale uniform areas. Before
the wash completely dried, I wiped
MENG Models
1:35 scale Pickup
kit includes some
useful accessories.
Three styles of
chilly bins are
supplied on the
accessories sprue.
These bottles will

come in handy too.
The painted chilly

bin and the cooling
unit with its new
Kneadatite thermal
cover.
The tow cables

were taped down
and painted with
a mix of Tamiya
XF-85 Rubber Black
and XF-64 Red
Brown.
Smaller parts painted and

ready for final assembly.
Periscope lenses
were cut from selfadhesive Montex
Mask material that
had been painted
glossy dark blue.
01/08/2014 10:07
a fingertip over the high points of

the uniform, cleaning off the wash
and increasing contrast. The paint
job was sealed with a coat of Alclad
II Klear Kote Flat.
The drink bottle was painted
light grey, with the lid and a band
around the middle finished in light
blue. The body of the bottle was
then brushed with several coats of
Future Floor Polish tinted with a tiny
spot of blue paint.
The Commander
figure is from Djiti.
DONE AND DUSTED - ALMOST

Reference photos show a number
of these Canadian Leopards with
blue or red chilly bins strapped to
the rear stowage bins. I really liked
the look of these, and so began my
quest, soon to become my obsession, with finding something similar
in 1:35 scale.
I eventually found that MENGs
1:35 scale Pickup truck included
a number of chilly bins as accessories. I ordered the Meng kit online
and had to cool my heels for a few
days until it was delivered.
In this lull, I sent some progress
photos to Jason Bobrowich, who
assisted Takom with research into
the kit. Jason mentioned that the
cooling units were always fitted with
a thermal cover.
Base colours
in place.
The basic
camouflage and
uniform colours
before final
weathering and
the flat coat.
The completed
Commander. I took
some liberties with
the uniform pattern
in the interests of
simplification.
Note the upside-down bottles

strapped to the aerial. These were
used to hold glow sticks for quick
nighttime identification. The selfadhesive periscope lenses may be
seen in place here too.
19/08/2014 14:27

The chilly bin and
cooling unit in place
on the side of the
stowage box.
As I now had another couple of

days, I decided to correct this error.
I managed to pop the cooling unit
off the side of the rear stowage box
with no significant damage. I then
rolled out a thin sheet of Kneadatite
two-part epoxy putty and cut off
a strip the same width as the
cooling unit. This was wrapped
around the photo-etched box. A
rectangle was then measured and
cut for the front face of the unit, and
carefully blended into the edges
of the Kneadatite that was already
in place. Some very subtle texture
was added before the box was put
aside and allowed to set.
Smaller details were now painted
and assembled including the hatches, the machine gun and its mount,
The side vents

were airbrushed
with a thin mix
of Tamiya acrylic
XF-1 Flat Black and
XF-64 Red Brown,
representing the
typical soot and
exhaust seen in this
area.
The cahracteristic criss-cross

arrangement of the tow cables
may be seen here.
The Commander figure lends a

sense of scale to this large vehicle.
19/08/2014 14:28
and the tow cables. Little Lenses

2.5mm lenses were used for the tail
lights, while 4mm clear lenses were
glued to the headlight housings.
A piece of Montex Masking sheet
was painted glossy blue and cut up
to use for vision block lenses.
Finally, the Meng pickup arrived
and the cooler box was painted
and glued to the top of the cooling
unit. Straps were added from thin
strips of painted Tamiya masking
tape. Accessories included with the
MENG Pickup included clear bottles. I strapped two of these bottles
upside-down to one of the 0.4mm
metal rod antennas. Glow sticks
were placed in these bottles for fast
nighttime identification.
CONCLUSION
MODEL SPEC
Takoms 1:35 scale Leopard C2

MEXAS is well detailed and quite
straightforward to build. Moulding
quality is first class, and you have
all you need to build a factory fresh
vehicle straight from the box.
The tracks do not seem consistent with the philosophy of the rest
of the kit, but there are a number of
alternatives if you want to avoid the
pain of press-fit five-piece links.
The addition of the Legends
update will bring the kit almost up to
full operational specifications, and the
parts are of a very high quality.
This was an enjoyable project
resulting of a very interesting and
significant subject.
ACCESSORIES USED
Legends Item No. LF1273 Leopard C2
MEXAS Update Set
Djiti Production Item No. 35035 Canadian
Tank Crew
Flexible Tracks from Meng Model Item No.
TS-007 - Leopard 1 A3/A4
Echelon Fine Details Item No. D356049
Canadian Leopard C2A1 MEXAS (Part 2)
Little Lenses 3.5mm Clear; 2mm Red
TOOLS & MODELLING PRODUCTS USED
Kneadatite Blue-Yellow Two-Part Epoxy Putty
Evergreen: .060 Angle Strip; .030 x .030
Strip; Plastic Card
Kitchen Sponge
Copper Wire
Tamiya Masking Tape
Revell Contacta Plastic Glue
Selleys Super Glue
Tamiya Surfacer
Gators Grip Acrylic Hobby Glue
The contrast
between the paint,
the dust and the
exposed primer is
interesting.
PAINTS AND FINISHING PRODUCTS

MEXAS
Tamiya Spray Cans - Grey Primer; TS-17 Black;
TS-34 Camel Yellow; TS-49 Bright Red
Citadel Texture Astrogranite
Lifecolor Acrylic Soviet AFV 4BO Green Easy 3
Set. Item No. MS041. UA 259 4BO Ground
Colour
Tamiya Acrylic Paints X-21 Flat Base; XF-1 Flat
Black; XF-4 Yellow Green; XF-55 Deck Tan; XF-57
Buff; XF-64 Red Brown; XF-85 Rubber Black.
Vallejo Panzer Aces 309 Periscope; 333
Germ. Tkcr. (Black); 337 Highlight Ger. (Black).
Future Floor Polish
SIN Industries (MIG) Filter P245 Green for
Allied Tanks
MIG Productions Absolute Chipping Acrylic Solution
AK Interactive: AK 024 Dark Streaking Grime
Alclad II Klear Kote Flat
Easy Mud Item No. 21104 Pacific Beach (Buff)
MIG Pigments P054 Alkaline Dust and P415
Light European Earth (50:50 mix)
FIGURES
Tamiya Spray Cans Fine White Primer;
Grey Primer
UNIFORM
Base Colour: Tamiya XF-57 Buff
Mottles: Vallejo Panzer Aces 315 Light Mud;
337 Highlight Ger. (Black) lightened with 315
Light Mud.
Dry Brush: Vallejo Model Color 847 Dark Sand
Body Armour: Vallejo Model Colour 70895
Gunship Green; 70995 German Grey
Straps: Vallejo Panzer Aces 330 Highlight
Russ. II Tkcr
Detailing: Vallejo Panzer Aces 337 Highlight
Ger. (Black). Vallejo Model Colour 70995
German Grey
Wash: MIG Productions P222 Neutral Wash
FLESH
Base Coat: Tamiya XF-15 Flat Flesh.
Wash: Rowney Georgian Oil Paint 221
Burnt Sienna.
Variations and Highlights: 70815 Basic Skin
Tone and Tamiya XF-15 Flat Flesh mix; 337
Highlight Ger. (Black) (mixed); 70995
German Grey.
19/08/2014 14:28
CHAPTER 10 IMPROVING THE IMAGE
MENG 1:35 LEOPARD 1A3/4
IMPROVING THE IMAGE

Spencer Pollard builds another
MEXAS, this time using Real
Models update set, together
with some carefully created,
homemade stowage and
scratchbuilt details.
y now you should have

a good idea of what the
Takom MEXAS is all about
and how you can get the
best from the kit, by either building
it as it arrived in Afghanistan, or
once it had been modified ready for
the battlefields of that dusty, wartorn theatre.
Brett decided to detail his model
with the Legends set, which allowed
him to build a vehicle that was quite
late into its service career, exhibiting
such things as the refrigeration unit
fixed to the rear turret bustle and
GPS. What if you wanted to carry
out similar work, but would like to
build a slightly more stripped-back
MEXAS, with less of those later
modifications? In this feature, Ill
show you how.
68 Chapter 10 - Improving The Image
19/08/2014 14:29
01/08/2014 10:14

GETTING STARTED
Knowing that if I was going to
build an in-service MEXAS, I would
need to carry out some additional
work, I contacted Anthony Sewards
who pointed me in the direction
of the Real Model update kit. This
comprehensive set would it was
hoped offer all of the additional
details that I would need for my
build including crew figures,
accessories and smaller details,
that would improve the look of the
model. Additional work could then
be carried out and combined with
these off-the-shelf updates, to create a more representative vehicle.
The order was placed and I sat
back and waited for it to arrive.
With the Real Model set to hand,
a plan of action was drawn up, the
additions and corrections being laid
out on a sheet of paper, ready to be
dealt with one by one. But first, lets
take a look at the update and see
what it offers the modeller.
Real Models set is a reasonably
comprehensive little set that allows
the modeller the flexibility of using
some or all of it, depending on the
vehicle being modelled. Given that
almost every MEXAS was slightly
different from the one sitting next to
it, the inclusion of stowage for the
The completed
hull and running
gear. To this point,
construction is
quick and easy.
The engine exhaust vents are reasonable, without being perfect

(though infinitely better than MENGs woeful A4 parts!).
Rather that join the MEXAS panels to the hull individually, they
were brought together to form one large sub-assembly thus
allowing them to be adjusted for fit, before sliding the whole
thing in place.
And here they are

fixed to the hull. The
fit is almost perfect.
There is no doubt that the look

of the turret differs dramatically
from a standard Leopard once
those panels are in place.
01/08/2014 10:14
kit racks, an optional cooling unit to

replace the left-hand rack, different
antenna mounts, GPS with modified
turret armour surround, dust guards
for the front of the vehicle, correctly
patterned fuel and water jerry cans,
smaller items of stowage (tarpaulins,
bed rolls, ammo boxes and
coolers), together with two
crew figures, is
more than
welcome
and offers a
huge degree
on modelling
flexibility.
That said, the
one item that
really needs to be
in the kit but isnt, is
a replacement for the
undersized commanders
TRP sight cover. As mentioned
earlier this distinctive piece is too
small, needing to be 25% larger
overall and so I would have thought
that it would have been the first
item to be dealt with! Real Model is
not alone in omitting this important
detail: Legends choose to omit this
item as well. So you are left with a
choice: either build a new one from
scratch (no easy task) or do as we
did and use the kit part, ignoring its
rather undernourished dimensions.
Overall, the detail and casting
is very good, little in the way of
clean-up being needed. The etched
fret is similarly impressive, all of the
finer details being captured well,
thus adding immeasurably, to the
look of the completed model. Given
that only a small part of this set
The kit supplies a set of Orochi tracks.

These are made up from large styrene
links, held together with individual vinyl
end-connectors. Initially I thought these
would be hard work to assemble, but in the
end, proved to be relatively quick and easy.
A detailed view of
the Orochi tracks.
I will definitely be
using these again
With the Real Model set to

hand, a plan of action was drawn up,
the additions and corrections being
laid out on a sheet of paper, ready to
be dealt with one by one...
would be used to build the model
seen in this feature, heres a list of
the additions and corrections that I
carried out, each of these being in
keeping with a specific vehicle that
Id examined in both the Abrams
Squad magazine and online. As you
can see, this is a fairly early vehicle,
lacking many of the more sophisticated upgrades such as the cooling units and GPS seen later in
the vehicles service in Afghanistan.
Despite this, it is representative and
we feel captures the look of these
impressive tanks, their stowage and
less than clean finishes!
The anti-slip texture was applied, by mixing together talcum powder with Humbrol enamel and Once in place and still soft, any excess anti-slip was removed from around the details using
then thinning the mixture slightly with enamel thinners. This was then painted on to the model. a paintbrush dampened with some enamel thinners. Quick and easy.
01/08/2014 10:15
The bespoke sand shields came from the Real Model set. These were bent to shape
and then any additional pieces fixed in place using low-melt solder. This added
strength to the parts, allowing them to be deformed with ease. The headlights were
improved by the addition of some lead wire power cables. Note the plastic rod
details add to the towing shackles.
The stowed tarpaulins fixed to the racks on the sides of

the turret bustle were made from Green Stuff with Magic
Sculp straps.
Tools of the trade for anyone wishing The canvass mantlet cover was improved with a Magic Sculp
to solder etched-brass pieces: flux,
inspection flap. Note also the additional details around the
a soldering iron, a paintbrush and
smoke dischargers.
some low-melt solder.
Here are the materials used to build the stowage: Magic

Sculp and Green Stuff the latter used for its flexible
properties once dry and the ability to stretch it out to create
very thin sheets.
The rear bustle is covered with additional stowage. The ID

flag has not yet been added. The jerry can racks and cans
were replaced with resin and photo-etched parts from the
Real Model set. The grey beds rolls are also from that set.
Ready to paint the

completed model shows
off for the camera. Other
that the removal of the
wheels and tracks, this
model was painted in two,
large sections.
Close up of the Real Model crew figures.
01/08/2014 10:14
The model was first

basecoated in several
coats of Tamiya NATO
Black to help regulate the
upper layers of colour.
In order to finish
the model, Tamiya
paints, thinned with
Mr Color Leveling
Thinner were used,
over an initial layer
of Tamiya Surface
Primer.
CORRECTIONS AND DETAILS ADDED

TURRET
Several layers of colour were sprayed over the model, Tamiya NATO Green and Cockpit Green being the predominant shades used.
Carefully applied highlights and shadows helped to bring out the shape of this vehicle, carefully masked panels further accentuating
the MEXAS armour and its facetted shape. With the green in place and dry, the additional stowage was airbrushed in various khaki
and grey shades, the tones being kept in line with those applied to the rest of the model. This is one of the benefits of painting these
items in place: you can ensure they look as though they belong rather than looking like an afterthought.
Built from the box in the main.

Anti-slip added to the upper
surfaces of MEXAS, turret roof and
rear turret bustle using a mixture of
talcum poder and enamel paint.
Inspection cover and Velcro
strips added to canvass mantlet
cover, added using rolled-out Magic
Sculp.
Smoke discharger caps detailed
with punched plasticard discs and
photo-etched chain from redundant
Eduard Gepard set.
New Antenna mounts added from
Real Model Set.
Scratchbuilt stowage added to
right and left racks, made from
brass tubing and rolled-out Magic
Sculp and Green Stuff.
Upper surface of bustle decorated with additional tarpaulin and
identification panel on right-hand,
rear most lid. Both pieces made
An overall layer of Games Workshop Purity Seal preceded a pin wash with Mig Productions
The tracks were airbrushed with Tamiya Semi Gloss Black and then with a layer of Alclad II
Dark Wash. This was applied around all details, panel lines and areas of shadow and then
Polished Aluminium. The width of the wheels was then measured and strips of Tamiya masking
blended-in with a soft, flat brush, moistened with Migs Thinners For Washes and white spirit. tape applied to the inner faces of the tracks, before spraying them with a layer of Tamiya Dark
Iron. The result was a set of tracks that exhibited the highly polished look of the originals.
01/08/2014 10:15
Initially, I decided to recreate the worn and dusty paint finish using the hairspray technique
and Tamiya Khaki, Buff and Deck Tan paints. The results though attractive, didnt really
capture the look of the original machine I was copying. Time for a rethink
In order to improve the look of the dust the bulk of the painted dust layers were
oversprayed with Vallejo Flat Vanish and then whilst still wet, stippled with a layer of Mig
Productions Pigments, European Earth and Beach Sand. The results were now much more in
keeping with the original. Whilst doing this constant referrals to my references were made
to ensure the weathering was as accurately portrayed as possible.
One of the problems with using pigments is that they can sometimes look out of scale.
To remedy this, the newly applied dust and the panels on which it sat, were carefully sanded
to smooth out the finish and force the dirt into the underlying green paintwork. The results
of that can be seen here.
Once happy with the dust, the detail was brought back out with a drybrushed layer of
Humbrol Matt Black. Though seemingly extreme, when done carefully, this can create
a wonderfully natural appearance, the black, blending seamlessly with the surrounding
paintwork.
from very thin sheets of Green Stuff.

Jerry can racks and cans on rear
wall of turret bustle replaced with
Real Model photo-etched and resin
details.
Where visible, tie-downs on the
bustle were replaced with photoetched details.
Real Model resin stowage fixed in
place on rear of bustle, scratchbuilt
bungee cords being an added
detail (lead wire and miniature
springs).
Real Model crew figures used to
complete the turret.
Additional small bolts added
to MEXAS using the addendum
sheet and small bolts supplied in
Takoms kit.
Small scratches
were added to
the surface of the
model with a sharp,
coloured pencil.
01/08/2014 10:15
Careful painting and weathering brings out the best in the

stowed items around the turret. Washes of Raw Umber oils
paint and Humbrol enamels, thinned with white spirit added
shadows and staining, whereas Vallejo acrylics, heavily
thinned and glazed onto each piece, add the highlights and
detail. Pigments, fixed in place with Mig Products Pigment
Fixer, add the finishing touch.
My chosen vehicle had a very distinctive patch of dirt on the

side of the turret so this was copied as closely as possible in
terms of both shape and colour. Indeed, all of the weathering
on this model was copied from the reference photos, very little
imagination coming into play during the weathering stages.
The dust and dirt thrown up on to the partly finished rear hull The dust was built up on the glacis plate and then left to
plate, contrast nicely with the anodised silver/grey tow cable. dry. Once so, a cotton bud moistened with white spirit was
used to work through the delicate pigment layer to create the
stained appearance that you see here.
HULL
Photo-etched dust guards
assembled from Real Model parts,
each being soldered together,
before fixing to the front of hull with
superglue.
Power cables added to headlights using lead wire.
Locking handles added to towing
brackets on the glacis, made from
Evergreen plastic rod.
Round bolts on the MEXAS
panels drilled out and replaced with
hex-bolts created with a Historex
punch & Die and 0.5mm plasticard.
Upper rail of sand skirts detailed
with the addition of small bolts.
Stowage bins on each side of the
hull detailed with reworked hinges
and clasps both from Evergreen
plastic strip and rod.
Tow cables replaced with fine,
brass, picture hanging wire,
annealed to make it more flexible.
Engine deck vent replaced with
Real Model etched-brass piece.
Towing shackles detailed with
lead wire seen in reference shots to
keep clevis pins in place.
Solid handle on top of stowage
box replaced with Evergreen plastic
strip and rod.
The engine exhausts were sprayed with a very thin layer

of Tamiya Flat Black to imitate the soot-stained look of the
originals. A dusting with pigments finished this part of the
model. Note the distinctive colour of the towing loop, Games
Workshop Mithryl Silver mixed with Vallejo Light Grey being
used to create this anodised look. The red end to the clevis,
adds a splash of colour.
Further staining was applied to the model using Migs Dark

Wash applied with a paintbrush and then blended in and also
with the airbrush to allow the application of very delicate
glazes, with ease. Note the difference between the painted
dust and the pigments in this shot.
A metallic finish
was added to the
MG rings around the
hatches with graphite
powered worked in
using a cotton bud.
Note the look of the
aerials in this shot
both of which were
made from lengths
of .3mm steel wire
and how careful
painting has made
them a little more
interesting.
The red ID patch
on the upper turret
adds a much-needed
splash of colour.
This was made
from a section of
rolled-out Green
Stuff airbrushed with
Tamiya Flat Red and
then weathered with
pigments.
Dry pigments were applied to further bulk-out the weathering around the model.
01/08/2014 10:16

Given that Brett and I approached
our models differently to create two
distinct vehicles, this feature has
guided you through the construction and painting steps that I took,
in order to complete my MEXAS.
Space precluded us from including
everything that was carried out, but
hopefully youve found enough information, both visually and through
the use of extended captions to
build a similar model yourself.
When building this kit, I would
suggest picking a real MEXAS,
studying as many images of it
as you can and then replicating
what you see. With only seventeen
vehicles seeing action, their details
MODEL SPEC
TOOLS AND MODELLING
PRODUCTS USED:
Tamiya Masking Tape
GF9 Super Glue
and equipment fit were extremely

specific and so I would urge you to
try and model as closely as possible
the way they looked, both in terms
of detail and finish. In this case,
I found a few pictures of an early
vehicle and then replicated much
of the stowage and patterns of
weathering that could be seen. At no
point was I tempted to simply follow
current trends and apply proprietary
solutions, powders and the like;
I very much wanted the finished
model to look like a miniature of a
real vehicle, not a model that looked
like another model.
In terms of markings I chose
the Squadron Headquarters Troop
MEXAS, which is only one suitable
for the kit as supplied. Happy that
this was so, it seemed appropriate
to use them for relatively stock
vehicle, too.
PAINTS AND FINISHING PRODUCTS:

Magic Sculp
Green Stuff
Baby Talc
XF-1 Flat Black
XF-52 Flat Earth
XF-49 Khaki
XF-67 NATO Green
XF-71 Cockpit Green
XF-7 Flat Red
86 Light Olive
150 Forest Green
159 Khaki Drab
33 Matt Black
Dark Wash
European Earth, Beech Sand pigments
Vallejo 169 Black
306 Dark Rubber
ACCESSORIES
Real Model Mexas Update Set

(RMA35202)
Picture hanging wire
19/08/2014 14:31
01/08/2014 10:15
CHAPTER 11 LEOPARD C2 MEXAS IN DETAIL
LEOPARD C2 MEXAS IN DETAIL

1. In order to cut
down on the amount
of dust thrown up
over the front of the
vehicle in service,
these bespoke dustguards were fitted
once in Afghanistan.
Anthony Sewards provides the modeller with plenty

of detailed information on this iconic vehicle, from
its service in Afghanistan.
1.
2.
2. Turret roof detail.

The anti-slip is obvious in this shot as
is the appearance
of the ingrained dirt.
The colour of the
hatches is interesting, as is the well
stain just in front of
the turret bins.
3. The rear of this
well-used Leopard
reveals some
interesting features
such as the red
primer shackles,
black stowage bin
and the evidence
of rust amongst
the layers of dust
and dirt.
3.
4. In order to
mount the GPS
unit, a section of
the turret armour
was removed and
replaced with this
field-applied, plate
here seen painted
black.
5. GPS unit in
detail. This item of
kit is included in the
Real Models set.
6. The smoke
dischargers are
mounted on the
sides of the turret
in clusters of four.
Though well dealt
with in the Takom
kit, extra detail, as
seen here, would
not go amiss. Not
the colour and
appearance of the
anti-slip on the roof
of the additional
armour.
4.
5.
6.
78 Chapter 11 - Leopard C2 MEXAS In Detail
01/08/2014 10:19
7. An interesting
little feature that
is missing from
the Takom kit can
be seen here.
Plasticard and strip
would make short
order of this small
detail.
8. With the bin
missing, its
mounting lugs can
be seen. This would
be a fun addition to
the basic kit. Note
also in this shot the
stowed ammunition
container and coolbox, strapped to the
turret again, both
of which are found
in Real Models
update set.
7.
8.
9.
10.
9. There is a large
slab of MEXAS
armour fitted to the
glacis plate of the
C2 heres what
that area looks like
with the armour
removed
10. The wheels take
a hammering in
service!
11. Later MEXAS
were fitted with a
cooling thermal
blanket and
refrigeration unit
to keep the crew
comfortable.
Here, you can
see the turret
covered in one of
those blankets,
the refrigerator
being fixed to the
left-hand wall of
the turret bustle.
Though also seen
on the hull, that
area does not
seem to have been
covered in this
case. Note the lessthan-fine look of the
aerials.
12. Rear exhaust
detail. Note the look
of the side skirts,
the missing bin and
the odd, red-oxide
colours seen in this
shot.
11.
13.
12.
14.
13. Another change

that could be made
to the basic kit is
to removed one of
the large armoured
panels, as seen
here.
14. As with the
wheels, the tracks
come back looking
much the worse for
wear!
01/08/2014 10:19
APPENDIX
KITS AND ACCESSORIES
ith the upswing in

interest in the Leopard
in miniature, the
modelling world has
been quick to offer all manner of
accessories to help you improve
your builds
When we started to plan this
book we contacted Michael
Shackleton who many of you will
know, is something of an expert
on all things Leopard. During our
discussions he kindly offered us a
complete list of products that had
been compiled for his Leopard
Club website, so that we could
reproduce it here. As a result of this
amazing offer, we are in Michaels
debt, as the sheer depth of information and the exhaustive nature of
the list, is simply something that
we would not have had the time, of
resources to do ourselves!
For anyone building the Leopard,
I would wholeheartedly recommend
a visit to the Leopard Club website

at http://leopardclub.ca/
LEOPARD 1
Tamiya 35064
Revell 3017
LEOPARD 1A1/A2
Heller 81125
Italeri 374
LEOPARD 1A3
Meng Model TS-007
Nichimo 3533
Within its many pages you will

find a whole raft of information,
builds, links, photo galleries,
reviews and online resources, as
well as a shop from which many
of the products listed here, can be
bought. It is in every sense, a onestop-shop for fans of the Leopard!
My thanks go out to Michael for
helping out with this list and with
the book in general. Thank you!
CONVERSIONS AND UPGRADES

ALL VERSIONS
ET Models ER25-027 - NATO Aerial Mounts
Leopard Workshop LW005 - Leopard 1 mantlet plugs
Perfect Scale Modellbau PE005 - tool clamps and
brackets
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35113 - PZB 200 LLTV
Perfect Scale Modellbau PE006 - cooling air intake
grill and screen
Voyager PEA327 - Modern German AFV antenna
bases
BATCH 1
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35106 - A complete cast
resin, photo-etch and copper cable conversion set
designed for use with any Italeri or Revell Leopard 1
kit
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35107 - A complete cast
resin turret and main gun designed for use with the
Italeri/Revell Leopard 1 hull
1A1A1
Peddinghaus EPHS 293
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35111
1A2
Centro Ricerche Storiche (CRS) Art.02/35
1A3
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35020 - Resin replacement
turret intended to be used with the Italeri 1A4 kit.
1A3/ 1A4
Mouse House MA149 - Corrected lower turret for the
Italeri Leopard 1A4
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35119 - A cast resin and
http://leopardclub.ca/
photo-etch detail set designed for use with the Meng

1A3/A4
Voyager PE35631 (1A3) or PE35636 (1A4) - An
extensive multi-media detail set designed for use
with the Meng 1A3/A4
1A2/1A5
Italian Kits IKA35005 (see below for the Leopard
update set) - A cast resin update set for the Italeri and
Revell kits contents include: Oval range-finder heads,
Hydraulic bump stops, Smaller diameter idler wheels,
A5 commander's episcopes, Detailed road wheels,
Turret lifting bollards
LEOPARD 1A5
Maple Leaf Models MLM1014 - OOP - Leopard 1A5
turret parts
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35112 - A cast resin and
photo etch set representing a production 1A5 turret
C2 MEXAS
Voyager PE35652 - An extensive multi-media detail
set designed for use with the Takom C2 MEXAS.
LEOPARD 1 BASED VEHICLES
FLAKPANZER GEPARD
Tamiya 35099
Heller
BERGEPANZER / LEOPARD ARV
Bergepanzer 2A2 - Elite 3510
Bergepanzer 2 with interior - Perfect Scale Modellbau
35026
Bergepanzer 2A2 with interior - Perfect Scale
Modellbau 35102
Bergepanzer 2A2 - Perfect Scale Modellbau 35103
LEOPARD 1A4
Italeri 224 - also released as Revell
H-2126 in Germany
MBK Models MBK35224
Meng Model TS-007
Tamiya 35112
Academy 1312/TA028
Heller 81136 (new edition kit number)
LEOPARD 1A5
Revell 3028
Italeri 6481
Takom #2004 - Leopard 1A5 / C2 2 in 1
LEOPARD C2
Takom #2004 - Leopard 1A5 / C2 2 in 1
Takom #2003 - Leopard C2 MEXAS
PIONIERPANZER / LEOPARD AEV

Pionierpanzer 2 Dachs - Elite 3508
Leopard 1 AEV with interior - Perfect Scale Modellbau
35117
Leopard 1 AEV - Perfect Scale Modellbau 35121
Brckenpanzer/Panzerschnellbrcke Biber/Leopard
AVLB - Elite 3518
Fahrschulpanzer/Driver training tank
MULTI-NATIONAL LEOPARDS
- AUSTRALIA
AS1 CONVERSIONS
Armour Bits AB01 (available through Mouse House
Enterprises)
Aussie Armour 355 (available through Mouse House
Enterprises)
Mouse House Enterprises, MA101 - Leopard AS1
circa 2007 conversion (designed for use with the
Italeri or Tamiya 1A4)
Mouse House Enterprises, MA116
Mouse House Enterprises, MA120 - Leopard AS1
conversion for the Meng Leopard 1A3/1A4
Mouse House Enterprises, MA122 - Australian
produced L7A3 105mm gun
Mouse House Enterprises, MA122 - Hydraulic dampers
AUSTRALIAN CAMO PAINT
Mouse House MAP05 - OzCam 3 pack/DPP
Camouflage Pack - A set of enamel paints in 14 ml tins
matched to authentic Australian Military colours. The
set consists of one tin of each of the following colours:
Olive Drab lusterless (available separately as MAP01),
Brown FS30219 (MAP02), Black FS37038 (MAP02)
- The instructions include camo patterns for Leopards,
Abrams and ASLAV vehicles in Australian service
80 Appendix
p 80-81 Appendix Leopard.indd 80
01/08/2014 10:20
CANADA
C1
Maple Leaf Models MLM1006 - Leopard C1 early
conversion (OOP)
Maple Leaf Models MLM1022 - Leopard C1 late
conversion (OOP)
Maple Leaf Models MLM1026 - Leopard C1 late
update (OOP)
Trackjam Models TJM001 - Leopard C1 early (OOP)
Real Models 35210
C1 MEXAS
Maple Leaf Models MLM1027 - C1 MEXAS conversion (OOP)
C1 GENERIC
Maple Leaf Models MLM1025 - Leopard C1 (Late)
Turret Bustle bin (OOP)
Maple Leaf Models MLM1017 - Leopard C1 lower
turret parts (OOP)
C2
Maple Leaf Models MLM1010 - Leopard C2
Conversion (OOP)
Maple Leaf Models MLM1014 - OOP
C2 MEXAS
Legend Productions LF1272 - C2 MEXAS conversion
Legend Productions LF1273 - C2 MEXAS update set
Legend Productions LF1285 - C2 MEXAS
Legend Productions LF1284
Maple Leaf Models MLM1031 - Leopard C2 MEXAS
up-armour kit (OOP)
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35115 - Leopard C2 MEXAS
(as used in Afghanistan)
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35116 - Leopard C2 MEXAS
with thermal cover (as used in Afghanistan)
Real Models RMA 35202 - PE detail set for Leopard
C2 MEXAS
Real Models RMA 35269
TAKOM C2 MEXAS
Trackjam Models TJM-003 - This set includes a
complete turret so it may be used with any Revell or
Italeri Leopard 1 kit
ALL CANADIAN LEOPARDS
Maple Leaf Models MLM1023 - modern Canadian
jerry can racks (OOP)
Maple Leaf Models MLM2001 - modern plastic fuel
cans (OOP)
Maple Leaf Models MLM2002 - modern plastic water
cans (OOP)
DENMARK
Accurate Armour C072 - 1A5DK conversion set
Legend Productions LF1282 - 1A5DK SFOR conversion
set Legend Productions LF1283- 1A5DK UN Conversion
set, designed for use with the Meng 1A3/A4 (TS-007)
SUSPENSION UPGRADE
Suspension upgrades were applied to late Canadian
C1 (and C2), Italian 1A5IT and Belgian 1A5BE
Leopards.
Centro Ricerche Storiche (CRS) Art.03/35
PHOTO-ETCH
ABER
German clasps and clamps - 35A93
Net with interlaced mesh 0.5 x 0.5 mm S19
ALLIANCE MODELWORKS
LW35046 German late WWII tool
EDUARD
Leopard 1A4 (Tamiya) 35084 (OOP)
Leopard 1A2 (Italeri) 35338
Leopard 1A4 (Tamiya) 35753
Leopard 1A4 Zoom (Tamiya) TP075
Leopard 1A5 (Italeri) 36159
Flakpanzer Gepard (Tamiya) 35654
ET MODEL
E35-207 - Leopard 1A3/A4 (Meng)
INSIDE THE ARMOUR
35071 - Modern German Tool Clamps
PERFECT SCALE MODELLBAU
Leopard 1 engine grill PE002
VOYAGER
Leopard 1 engine grill AP024
Modern German clamps and clasps - AP036 Leopard
1A3 or 1A4 (for Meng TS-007), PE35631 (1A3) or
PE35636 (1A4)
ROAD WHEELS
The Tamiya road wheels are too small in diameter
while the Italeri/Revell wheels have little grooves and
under-sized bolts.
Accurate Armour A068
Leopard Workshop LW001
Maple Leaf Models MLM1013 - worn Leopard 1 road
wheels (OOP)
Maple Leaf Models MLM1024 (OOP)
Maple Leaf Models MLM1035 (OOP)
Mouse House Enterprises MA142
Perfect Scale Models 35036
ACCESSORIES
AMMUNITION
Peddinghaus # 120
DOZER BLADE
Mouse Armour MA119
MINE ROLLERS
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35069 - Leopard 1 and 2
mine rollers
TOW CABLES
Eureka XXL -ER-3507
Karaya - TCR05
Minimeca - 3520
MR Modellbau - MR-50022
ENGINE/POWER-PACK
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35025 - Leopard 1 powerpack and engine compartment
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35104 - Leopard 1 powerpack
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35105 - Leopard 1 engine bay
Real Models RMA3504
SMOKE DISCHARGERS
(WEGMANN 76 MM MBGD)
ET Models ER35-028
Lion Roar LAM038 - modern German smoke
dischargers
MR Modellbau - MR-35209
Orange Hobby G35-108
Voyager - ME-A016
TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES

Mouse House MA146 - towing A-frame
Bundeswehr tool set - MR Modellbau MR-35105
Bundeswehr accessories No. 1 - MR Modellbau
MR-35106
Perfect Scale Modellbau 35120 - Hofman device
(main gun training simulator).
TRACKS
Elite 35H01 (also released as HKCW TL-3501)
Fruilmodel ATL-141
MENG SPS-016
Orochi PF-003
Spade Ace Models SAT-35181
Spade Ace Models SAT-35181S
GUNS
MAIN GUN WITHOUT THERMAL COVER
Accurate Armour B35009
Model Point 3558
RB 35B100
Tamiya
MAIN GUN WITH THERMAL COVER
Model Point 3558-1
Orange Hobby G35-138
Voyager VBS0182
Voyager VBS0186
DECALS AND MARKINGS

AUSTRALIA
Austencil (available from Mouse House Enterprises)
Mouse Armour Decals - MAD 606
CANADA
Archer Fine Transfers AR35118B
Echelon Fine Details D356006 - Canadian Leopard
C2 MEXAS markings
C2 MEXAS - Part 2 - LdSH(RC) A Sqdn, 1st troop
C2 MEXAS - Part 3 - LdSH(RC) A Sqdn, 2nd troop
C2 MEXAS - Part 4 - LdSH(RC) A Sqdn, 3rd troop
DENMARK
Leopard Workshop LW003SFOR
Leopard Workshop LW003UN - markings for the
Danish Leopard 1A5DK in service with UNPROFOR
GERMANY
Truckline - several generic sheets
GREECE
LM Decals LM 35011- markings for the Leopard 1 in
Hellenic Army Service
GPMG AND MOUNT

Maple Leaf Models MLM1015 - OOP
p 80-81 Appendix Leopard.indd 81
01/08/2014 10:20
FINAL THOUGHTS
FINAL THOUGHTS
ast year when I began the

first of what would be four
Leopards, there was really no
plan at all to build any more,
I was simply happy to be finally
building a model that had been a
dream for more years than I cared to
remember! Now, one year and four
models on, I have a collection and
time to ponder on what to do next.
There will of course be other
Leopards to complete. For instance,
Im very keen to build and paint
the reissued Italeri kit; it will be
interesting to see how this ancient
kit will look under a finish similar to
those applied to my other Leopards
and though I know it will not be as
detailed, it should still result in a fine
model that I can display alongside
the other four. Which I guess leads
me onto other possible collections
based on single subjects
During the mid Eighties, Tamiya
released a number of modern
vehicles, almost all of which I
built, sometimes more than once.
Amongst these kits were the
Abrams, Bradley, Challenger, Sgt.
York, Merkava and various smaller
vehicles such as the M151 MUTT.
Over the years Ive collected almost
all of these kits, either thanks to
Tamiyas reissue policy, or through
various kit swaps and second-hand
dealers. What this has allowed me to
do is plan for a collection of models
based on older kits that are perhaps
of little interest to an insatiable market, keen to buy the latest hyper-kit.
The idea here is to see, much
like the Italeri Leopard, how these
older tools would look once
painted, weathered and perhaps
detailed using state of the art tools
and techniques. A number of the
moulds for these kits - such as the
M1 Abrams and M3 Bradley CFV
were altered for later releases and
as such, will never be released, so
their value as projects is raised as a
result after all, kits are there to be
built, arent they?!
The reworking of the moulds
of course allows a collection of
different machines from the same
basic kit. For instance, Tamiyas M1
Abrams spawned the M1A1, then
the M1A1 with mine-plough, M1A2
and finally M1A2 TUSK thats five

models, from one basic kit. Add
to that the Dragon kits, M1A1, M1
Panther and the ancient ESCI kit
of the 105mm armed M1 and you
have a similar collection to the
Leopards seen here.
Maybe you dont want to build a
gun-tank, what about the Bradley?
Tamiya first released the M3 CFV,
then the M2 IFV with interior, M2A2
IFV and then M2A2 ODS. This year,
MENG have released a brand-new
M2A3 with BUSK (full interior) and
M3A3 (without interior) with the
promise of another from Orochi,
again an M3A3. Another seven kits:
another collection of models in 1:35.
Today, it is easier than ever to
build families of vehicles in 1:35,
using both old and new kits. Though
counter-intuitive, I feel that the use of
both helps maintain a level of creativity and originality that is perhaps
not possible when only state-of-the
art products are used. Tackling a
set of parts created thirty years ago
and then adding detail, figures and
accessories that you have brought
together allows the completion of a
kit that is unique to you, rather than
being a facsimile of something built
by another modeller. In this book,
the kits have crossed many different
levels of skill, but they all share one
thing in common: they are reflections of the modellers personality.
Each individual Leopard says much
about the approach of the artists
involved, illustrating their approach
to the hobby and the models that
they complete as a result. They are
original, memorable and inspirational
in equal measure. Should I decide to
tackle another collection, it will follow
a similar path to this one, utilising
a number of different kits that allow
the greatest degree of construction,
detailing and painting fun as possible, because thats why we all do
this in the first place!
I may not have decided what I will
build next, but one things for sure, I
wont be leaving it thirty years before
I get started theres just too much
to do and nowhere near enough
time to do it all! Perhaps I should
simply get started as soon as possible? Hmm Wheres that Abrams?
Built almost fifteen years

ago, Nose Dive shows
what is possible from one
of Tamiyas older Abrams
kits, in this case the M1A1.
Maybe its time to build that ancient Tamiya M1 Abrams?
The evolution of a 1:35 kit: Tamiyas Abrams from M1 to TUSK
82 Final Thoughts
p 82 Final Thoughts Leopard.indd 82
01/08/2014 10:21
The HOW TO BUILD... series
Visit www.adhbooks.com
p 83 Advert Leopard.indd 8
01/08/2014 10:22
Given that we can now

build virtually any member
of this family, it seemed
like a good time to bring
together some cool
features to show you the
modeller, how to build up
a small collection using
readily available kits and
accessories...
The Leopard Family in 1:35

If ever a family of vehicles deserves to be
looked at in miniature, it is the Leopard and
its many offspring. Classic in design and
bestowed with the kind of character and
detail often missing from more modern,
Heath Robinson designs, the Leopard is the
ultimate example of form and function on
the battlefield.
This new book will introduce you to seven
individual models that reflect the use and
development of this vehicle from the earlier
Leopard 1, through specialist recovery
vehicles, the reworked Leopard II and
finally its use by the Canadian forces on
the battlefields of Afghanistan. In so doing,
you will find a whole raft of hints and
tips, assembly, painting, weathering and
detailing, all of which can be combined to
create your own family of models, either
as found within this book, or from your own
personal collections.
This is the Leopard family in 1:35
we hope you enjoy their company!
Published by:
ADH Publishing Ltd., Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX
Telephone: 44 (0) 1525 222573 Fax: 44 (0) 1525 222574
Website: www.adhpublishing.com
p 84 BackCover Leopard.indd 1
01/08/2014 10:23

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HOW TO

SEVEN COMPLETE BUILDS PLUS:

From the publishers of Tamiya Model Magazine International,

FEATURING THE WORK OF

Spencer Pollard, Marcel Jussen,

nyone that follows the modelling world

2 How to Build... The Leopard Family in 1:35

p 02-03 Contents Leopard.indd 2

Designed by Alex Hall

First Published in the United Kingdom by:

ADH Publishing Ltd., Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane,

Copyright 2014 ADH Publishing Ltd.

All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or

p 02-03 Contents Leopard.indd 3

y very first 1:35 kit was

cemented a desire to recreate these

details and updates and the

p 04-05 Intro Leopard.indd 4

Posed together, the

of thought regarding painting

distinctive rolled tarpaulins seen on

simple ideas, tools and materials

How to Build... The Leopard Family in 1:35 5

p 04-05 Intro Leopard.indd 5

CHAPTER 1 FROM THE BOX: MENGS 1A3/1A4

MENG 1:35 LEOPARD 1A3/4

here is no doubt that the

FROM THE BOX:

6 Chapter 1 - From The Box: MENGs 1A3/1A4

p 06-12 CH1 Leopard.indd 6

How to Build... The Leopard Family in 1:35 7

p 06-12 CH1 Leopard.indd 7

CHAPTER 1 FROM THE BOX: MENGS 1A3/1A4

One of the more

8 Chapter 1 - From The Box: MENGs 1A3/1A4

p 06-12 CH1 Leopard.indd 8

this was an A4 and would not be

Painting begins with several layers

With the green dry, the brown

The camouflage is completed with the addition

With the camouflage painted, the entire model

Though looking fine

How to Build... The Leopard Family in 1:35 9

p 06-12 CH1 Leopard.indd 9

CHAPTER 1 FROM THE BOX: MENGS 1A3/1A4

vehicles are fitted with different

CAMOUFLAGE AND MARKINGS

The pigments were

The lights were

10 Chapter 1 - From The Box: MENGs 1A3/1A4

p 06-12 CH1 Leopard.indd 10

Brown topping the list for acrylic

A. The rear of the

a useful way of refreshing a finish

Europe Earth pigment, fixing each

More splashes, dust

How to Build... The Leopard Family in 1:35 11

p 06-12 CH1 Leopard.indd 11

CHAPTER 1 FROM THE BOX: MENGS 1A3/1A4

The glossy lights

relevant colours and then overlay

12 Chapter 1 - From The Box: MENGs 1A3/1A4

p 06-12 CH1 Leopard.indd 12