CVT Basics Constant Variable Transmissions

One thing people regularly wonder about is how a CVT (Constant Variable Transmission) works.
CVTs are used mostly in scooters, like the 50cc Aprilia SR50 DiTech this document describes, but
some larger scooters also use CVTs, and they are even being used on some Audis now! If youve
ever been confused about that strange little transmission in your scooter, this should help clear
things up a bit.
CVTs are quite simple in design, but since every part must work in concert with all the others, it
can be difficult to visualize their operation, and understand how each part fits into the whole. The
drawings are not to scale, but are meant to just give you a better idea about what is going on.
This document was originally written by Scott (AKA
Scootnfast:http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/member.php?
s=&action=getinfo&userid=1418) on the ApriliaForum:http://www.apriliaforum.com website. I
have done a bit of editing so that things make sense in a non-forum context, but all the photos
and info are his, and have been reproduced with his permission.
For other articles available check out the
list:http://www.flexistentialist.org/archives/2003/10/28/scooter_maintena.shtml or read on to
continue this article.

People ask a lot about different roller weights, clutch springs, contra springs variators and belts.
This is an attempt to put the effect these have on your CVT in simple terms.
The truth of the matter is, a new variator, springs, or weights WILL NOT increase your vehicles
over all power! The power your vehicle produces depends on the engine, not the transmission.
What it does do is adjust your rate of acceleration, and at what RPM your motor runs at while it
is accelerating, and at what speed the motor is reving when you reach the highest gear ratio
available.
Now having said both of those things, the key is to have your motor running at the RPM where it
creates the most horsepower consistently while accelerating. This value will be different for
different engines. For the Aprilia SR50 DiTech used in this explanation, The max power is created
between 8000 8500 RPMs. If you are accelerating at 5000 RPMs or 9500 RPMs, this will
decrease your acceleration because your horsepower is not at its peak.
This goal is achieved through trial and error. Changing first your contra spring, and then trying
different roller weights is how one might go about doing this.

In order for you to understand which way you need to go with weights and springs, you must
first understand how the entire drive train works.

Click for larger image

Lets start with the front pulley of the variator. This is where your roller weights and ramp plate
are located. This image is a cross-section of the front pulley, showing the front half of the pulley,
the belt, and the rollers sitting against the ramp plate. This is how the transmission looks when
the engine is running at low RPMs.

Click for larger image

Now as the RPMs of the motor increase, the centrifugal force pushes the roller weights outward
(number 1 in picture).
The roller weights push out and onto the angle plates surface. This causes the rear half of the
pulley to move toward the front half of the pulley (number 2 in picture).
When the rear half of the pulley pushes to the front pulley, it forces the belt out to a higher gear
ratio (number 3 in picture).
This is the basic operation of the front pulley. Faster engine speeds cause the belt to go outward.
If you are thinking about getting a new variator, let me first start by telling you that it will
probably not have any effect on your over all top speed. What it will do is give you a more steady
acceleration. The distance that the rear half of the pulley can travel pretty much remains the
same. Meaning that it will only push the belt out as far as the stock variator will which results in
the same high gear ratio as the stock variator. The key difference between the stock and
performance variators is the angle on which the roller weights travel and the angle on the angle
plate in the rear of the variator. This will only help give you a smoother, more constant
acceleration.

Now as for the different weights for the rollers. It is really rather simple. The heavier the weight,
the more force will be applied to the angle plate forcing the rear pulley half forward faster. If the
roller weights are too heavy, it will force the gear into too high of a gear too fast.
I like to use a 10 speed bicycle as a comparison. From a dead start, if you are in 10th gear, it is
very difficult to get going. But if you are in first gear, it is very easy to get moving. the same
principle applies here. You want the weights to keep you in first gear, and as the RPMs increase,
it will gradually step the gears up until it reaches tenth gear.
If your roller weights are too light, then there will not be enough force to push the ramp plate
out and the rear half forward. This will result in good acceleration, but a low top end. You will
simply remain in a low gear for too long. As the engine speed finally gets moving enough to
move the pulley forward and raise your gearing, you will be above the RPM of peak horsepower
for the engine, and it will not have the power to get you moving.

Click for larger image

This image is a side view of what the ratio looks like in low gear. You will see that the front pulley
is small, and the rear pulley is large. This is like first gear of the 10 speed bike.

Click for larger image

This image is what the gear ratio looks like when the roller weights are pushed out and the rear
half of the pulley is forward. The belt is pushed out to a higher ratio. This is like tenth gear on
the bicycle.
Now the other factor in this equation is the rear pulley. The rear pulley has a spring holding it
together. This is your contra spring.
The front half of the pulley is also torque controlled. There are angled grooves that the pulley
travels on. As torque is applied, this limits the belt from traveling in too quickly. Likewise, as you
go up a hill and torque is applied to the pulley, it is supposed to force the pulley together giving
you a lower gear ratio.

Click for larger image

This image is what the rear pulley looks like at low rpms. The spring is forcing the two halves of
the rear pulley together, holding belt outward, and keeping a low gearing. As torque is applied to
the belt, the halves of the pulley begin to separate, pulling the belt inward, which raises your
gearing. The stiffness of this spring determines how fast the pulley halves expand, and how
strongly they return to their original shape when the torque is lowered again.

Click for larger image

This image is what the rear pulley looks like at high rpms. Notice the spring has been
compressed, and the belt has moved inward.

If your roller weights are giving you good acceleration, and a good top end, but when you
approach a small hill the scooter slows drastically, this may be caused by having too light of a
contra spring. The contra spring helps push the rear pulley back together when torque is applied
to the rear pulley.
Say you are running good at say 50MPH, and you slow down to 35MPH. If you then try to
accelerate, and you have hardly any acceleration, this can be caused by having too light of a
contra spring. When you slow down, the spring is supposed to push the rear pulley together into
a lower gear ratio. If the spring isnt strong enough, the pulley will remain in a high gear, and
then when you try to accelerate, there isnt enough power to push you because you are in too
high of a gear.
On the other hand, if your spring is too strong, then the roller weights may not be heavy enough
to force the belt out all the way and into its highest gear ratio, and you wont be able to reach
your top speed.
If you go with a stiffer contra spring, you may need to go to a slightly heavier roller weight.
Likewise, if you go to a softer spring, you may need to go to a lighter roller weight.
There is a very fine balance that you must achieve between the contra spring and your roller
weights. This is only accomplished through trial and error.
If you are looking for different roller weights for your scooter, check with your dealer or do some
web searching for your model of scooter.
The ApriliaForum store:http://apriliaforum.safeshopper.com (operated by the fine folks at AF1
Racing:http://www.af1racing.com) carries a variety of roller weights and contra springs for
carbed Aprilia scooters and Aprilia DiTech scooters. Malossi springs are ordered by color. The
white is the softest, red the stiffest, and yellow somewhere in between. If you are going to get a
new spring, I recommend getting the red or yellow one. Starting stiff is good, and you can adjust
your roller weights from there. The forum store also carries Malossi MultiVars, which are a fine
replacement for your variator, as well as Malossi clutches.
Installation of a contra spring is fairly easy, and is described next. If you need to change roller
weights, or get into the variator, read the De-restriction How-To for more information!

Click for larger image

Changing the contra spring starts by removing the cover from the swing arm on your scooter.
Then you remove the nut that holds your rear pulley and clutch assembly on. The nut can be
difficult to remove, because the entire assembly will rotate as you try to turn the nut. One
technique is to have a helper hold the rear brake down as you loosen the nut. Another way is to
use an impact wrench, which can remove the nut on the front and rear pulleys without worrying
about the part turning. They do this by rattling as they turn, which can loosen a nut in fast
spurts, before the pulley has a chance to rotate under your wrench. If you plan on working with
your scooter very much, I highly recommend getting one. You can find electric ones (commonly
used for removing the wheels of cars) for pretty cheap, or if you want to go more professional,
you can find very nice pneumatic impact wrenches. The benefit of pneumatic is that once you
have the setup (compressor, hoses, fittings, etc.) you can continue to add tools for relatively
little expense.

Click for larger image

Once the nut has been removed, remove the clutch bell housing and then pull the entire rear
pulley and clutch off the axle.

Click for larger image

Once the pulley has been removed, you have to remove the large nut on the side of the clutch.
This can be rather difficult. The nut is on rather tight, and it is very difficult to hold the pulley
while you loosen it. I used two large C clamps and a piece of rubber to give them grip to hold it
down on my workbench while I removed the nut.

Be careful after you loosen it. The whole clutch is essentially spring loaded. The contra spring is
pushing on the clutch. When the nut is fully removed, the clutch will shoot out at you. So be sure
to hold it firmly when removing the bolt and be careful. When in doubt, wear safety glasses, and
get a helper.

Click for larger image

After the nut is removed, you can slip the assembly apart, change your spring and re-assemble.
Compress the spring and tighten the nut back on. Use a drop of blue (removable) Loc-Tite to
keep things together.
Thats it! I hope you understand a bit more about the CVT and how its parts work together. With
some trial and error, youll be well on your way to maximum scooter performance.
22 commentsMonday 27 Oct 2003 | Sam | Scooter Stuff

1.

22 Responses to CVT Basics Constant Variable

Transmissions
on 24 Nov 2003 at 12:00 pm Meredith

really appreaciate this article, as I have given up motorcycles and love scootering. Have three
Hondas, 89 Elite 250, bought used with 500 miles, now has 17000 trouble free miles. ( am in
the process of replacing belt).2000 Elite 80, bought new, now has 11000 trouble free miles
except for speedo cable while under warranty. 1989 Helix 250 bought used, with 5000 miles on
it, now has 9000 trouble free miles, presently being repaired due to accident, got broadsided by
4 wheeler. Longest trips have been 500 miles round trip on both the Elite 250 and the Helix.

Have ridden 2 wheelers for 55 years. the last 3 on scooters and would not go back for anything.
Thanks again for the fine article, am always looking for tech info on scooters. standard and
performance
2.

on 16 Jul 2004 at 10:57 am jadehsu

umm about the variators, recently i opened up my bike n realised the abrasion lining on my
vaiator assembly. the lines r caused by my previous belt n my bike has this excessive vibrations
when i have a pillion. is caused by he abrasions on my variatos if not what causes the
vibrations.?
3.

on 25 Sep 2004 at 12:53 pm Matt

Hey, I read your article and its the best. I already understood how a CVT works, but a lot of
people dont and its difficult to describe without a ton of writing. Would you (and the original
author) mind if I posted this material as an article in the resources section of mopedarmy.com
(giving credit, of course)? Were in need of some good articles that teach newbies how things
work.
thanks,
Matt
4.

on 23 Oct 2004 at 11:01 am sam

i have a suzuki katana, one of the new editions.i dont know much about then engines. would it
have a restriction in the exhaust???it doesnt have one of those side pipes like the aprillia has!can
u help me out coz i got a 70 engine but im only hitting 40!!!pls reply thx
5.

on 21 Sep 2006 at 7:20 pm mw

Could you explain what happens inside the hub?? I was

thinking the rear pulley would be mounted directly to the rear axle.
6.

on 05 Oct 2006 at 3:03 pm Andrew

To MW
the hub is attached to your rear axle. inside the hub theres the clutch which turns
simultaneously with your rear pully. at a certain RPM springs inside your clutch wil expand (this
depends on the strength of the springs). the springs in turn will let the clutch expand and then
grip your hub. it works a bit like a drum brake. when the clutch grips the hub the wheel will turn.
7.

on 07 Nov 2006 at 12:38 pm Joan C Jennings

Enjoyed the aarticle. Thanks, Joan

8.

on 30 Dec 2006 at 7:01 pm Ariosuko

Bravo !
I have tried to release the bolt on driven pulley (as you explained above), but did not success
yet.
Could you show, which tools you have used, & the procedure step by step?
Thx anyway
9.

on 18 Jan 2007 at 8:50 pm pat bedford

Bravo, the easiest and quickest way is to buy or borrow someones impact wrench, and socket. It
will spin off easy.
10.

on 07 Feb 2007 at 10:47 am Wai

I have a problem.
When I first accelerate my scooter from a dead stop, the clutch catches and bolts akin to a
beginner trying to drive a clutched vehicle. This is most noticeable when its been sitting around
for a day.
Do you know the problem and what the solution is?
11.

on 16 Mar 2007 at 5:08 pm Justin

HI, I have a (stock) Vmoto Monza that goes quite well at high rpms, but is really quite slow on
take off. I have ridden a few others that Jump off the start (which i would imagine would be
better in traffic) would this have anything to do with the clutch linings being worn out? (it has
over 5000kms on the clock) Would replacing it gain any advantage or am i better to play with
variator weights and contra springs?
12.

on 07 Jun 2007 at 2:09 pm Baldbloke

An excellent and well-explained article! I have enough confidence now to tackle a bit of essential
work on my other halfs scooter and hopefully get her back on the road and off my back!
13.

on 21 Nov 2007 at 9:54 am Stan

I believe it should be Continuously Variable Transmission.

The only time Ive heard Constant Variable Transmission is in error.
14.

on 27 Dec 2007 at 1:54 pm Timmis

brilliant article thanks this has really helped me to understand how the CVT transmission works.
am in the process of playing around with variators and contra springs on my Jog RR so this has
come in handy to help me understand things better.
15.

on 03 Apr 2008 at 9:20 pm rosa

I own a QLINK 250 legacy and I am very pleased with the bike itself. I love the automatic bike
but I wish the bike had more power. The best I can get is 62mph and that is full throttle with the
wind at my back. If anyone has any suggestions on how to make the bike faster I would greatly
appreciate the knowledge
16.

on 25 Jun 2008 at 8:23 am lou

i recently brought a road runner i scooter racer (chinese brand) brand new delivered,when you
excelerate the vibrations are terrible,just on exceleration that the whole bike vibrates, what can
it be.
17.

on 10 Feb 2009 at 3:27 pm kox

Why several times bolt at my variator get unscrewed. What I made

wrong ? After I changed belt variator get unscrewed but after 3000
km. I change bolt and front pully half. Thing was ok for next 500 kn
and happened again. Third time shit happened after 50 km. ????
18.

on 22 Mar 2010 at 2:02 pm DeeBee

HELP! When at a standstill, I have to apply the brake as my scooters clutch doesnt seem to be
disengaging (when bike is on centre stand, rear wheel is turning & only stops if brake is applied).
Is this a problem with clutch?
19.

on 10 May 2010 at 2:52 pm MICHEL KUN

congratulation on yout article.

Needed a CVT transmission that can be keep in low gear
like the selector of a car auto transmission
reson, when going up a hill it would be better to have the engine at max RPM and the
transmission at higher reduccion (1 st gear)
20.

on 12 Oct 2010 at 10:38 am John Cooper

When installing new stock weights which way do the weights go? 3 rollers metal showing to the
left and 3 rollers showing plastic to the right?

thanks
John
21.

on 14 Oct 2010 at 10:14 pm John Cooper

Hello do you have the answer

22.

on 17 Jan 2011 at 1:37 pm Yee Spead

Clear blog. Wondering if you ever trade guest articles? I am running a web site on my latest
obsession water filters and looking to trade some articles with good pages. I checked out your
blog and you have got some good articles and I feel our visitors would each discover value.
Thanks!