Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
Documenti di Cultura
Role of merchandiser
At
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd.
DECLARATION
I, ROHIT KUMAR hereby declare that the internship project entitled Role of
Merchandiser at Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd. In Apparel Fashion submitted
towards, partial fulfillment of the Degree of Master of Fashion Management is
my original work and no part of project has been copied from any other reports
or any other work carried by someone else which has been submitted for any
other degree. However, any material taken from any other published source has
been suitably referred and acknowledged at various palaces.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Upon completion of this project, I would like to express my gratitude towards the
supervisor of this project Ms. Shikha Gupta for the opportunity to do summer
internship. I am very grateful to Mr. Rohit sir for providing me opportunity to
work in and get training in Shahi Export. Further, I am also extremely indebted
to my Mentor Ms. Shikha Gupta, who guided me,. I would also express my
sincere gratitude to Shahi Export and staff members. I want to express my
appreciation to all those with whom I worked. Interacted and whose thoughts
and insists helped me in increasing my knowledge and understanding of
working in an organization.
I feel great pleasure in presenting my high obligation to Mr. Rohit Sharma
(DMM) who gave me the opportunity to undergo training at Shahi Export Pvt.
Ltd.
I acknowledge them with great sense of gratitude to Ms. Chetna Chugh
(Merchandiser) and Mr. Mohit Malhotra (Sample Co ordinator) (my training
guides) for providing their esteemed guidance and knowledge to help me in
training.
Finally, I owe my thanks to faculty members and Training & Placement
Department of FMS of National Institute of Fashion Technology, Jodhpur for
helping me to get through the summer training at this esteemed Organization.
Signature of student
ABSTRACT
TABLE OF CONTENT
Sr. No.
Content
Page No.
1.
Introduction
06
2.
Company overview
09
3.
Major clients
12
4.
13
5.
Role of merchandiser
14
6.
15
7.
21
8.
28
9.
Cutting Department
34
10.
Stitching Department
37
11.
Finishing Department
38
12.
Quality process
41
13.
50
14.
58
15.
Care labelling
59
16.
Learning Outcomes
61
17.
Conclusion
62
INTRODUCTION
MERCHANDISING
The process of planning, developing and presenting product lines for identified
target markets is called merchandising with regard to pricing, assorting, styling
and timing
Line planning
Line development
Line presentation
Planning&Control
Documentation&
presentations
Market Knowledge
Merchandising
Interface with
Suppliers
Sourcing &
Material management
Product Knowledge
Interface with
buyer
Fashion merchandising is the promotion of apparel sales and involves all of the
tasks necessary to deliver the clothing requests and meet the needs of potential
customers and designers. Developing campaigns, displays and advertisements,
directing manufacturing and marketing, and creating sales strategies are all part
of the job.
6
Export Merchandising
Merchandising has been to a large extent a function which was never clearly
defined not distinctly performed in the Indian Apparel export industry of old. On
one hand the merchandiser had the job of getting orders and had to execute
them; doing the role of production coordinator in the same breath, whilst for
others the job was only follow up of the confirmed orders. The merchandisers
had often been used as glorified clerks with the job focusing on passing the
information received from one source to another without any value addition to
it. In the burgeoning market of apparel exports 80`s, Merchandising function
was often assigned to fresh graduated of any discipline who were capable of
responding to the queries of the customers in the English language. No other
qualification was largely sought from them as the work was primarily
decentralized and the merchants needed little technical knowledge. But the
dependency on the technicians was inevitable.
METHODOLOGY
During the internship the basic key knowledge is gain through practical training
in Shahi Export in Faridabad. The report is made by collecting the information
and document from Shahi Export. And by the personal experience gain in the
Shahi Exports sampling department. In first week got introduction to company
and its various departments. In second week worked under the merchandiser
following her and got knowledge about the sequence of work to be follow while
producing sample and production of mock .Third and Forth week involved in
production of size set sample of two different styles. Fifth week learned
shipment of samples to buying house and production of preproduction sample
with the instruction by RND. Learned about various departments and started
performing like merchant. Sixth week involved in making production file and
handling over sample for production to production department and started
working on new style. Seventh and eighth week learned to develop proto
sample , fit sample size set sample and communication with buyer and supplier
and the costing and planning of work
COMPANYS OVERVIEW
HISTORY
A Shahi export was born in 1974 in Delhi. Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd. is engaged in
the manufacture and export of readymade garments in the International
market. It is one of the largest export houses in India. The company started its
Fusing
Press,
Barudan
and Tajima
Multi
Head
in
House
Washing
Plant,
Automatic
cutting
machines
(F.K.Systems).
Production Capacity
: 60 / 75 / 90 / 120 days
: 2750 crore
: 3200 crore
Embroidery unit - two Barudan machines,
Pigment garment dyeing washing capability
: offering special wash finishes on knitted
garments produced in fine auto-stripes,
jacquards, interlock and jersey.
Address
Telephone No
: 0129-2273980/4044444
Fax No
: 0129-2273485
Email
Website
Primary products
delhi@shahi.co.in
http://www.shahi.co.in
Blouses
,denim,
dresses,
T-shirt,
1999
5845
Unit
Nature of Business
Chairman
Directors
Date of Establishment
Apparel.
Mr.Harish Ahuja, Mr. Girish Ahuja,Mr Subhash
tiwari
Ms.Sheetal Khanna
Email: sheetal.khanna@shahi.co.in
Mission
o Be the most preferred competitive global supplier of apparel.
o Be the most preferred employer in the industry.
o Be a learning organization to improve & excel.
Vision
10
o
In sharing the fruit of growth, prosperity with its partners i.e. the
employees.
o
The company firmly believes that Team Spirit is the Hallmark of success.
MAJOR CLIETS
11
1. Target
2. Gap
3. H&M
4. Tommy Hilfigers
5. J.C Penny
6. Kohls
7. Impulse
8. Streetone
9. S.Oliver
10. DKNY
11. Next
12. Old navy
13. Ann Taylors
14. Walmart
15. Espirit
16. Federated
17. Debenhams
18. J. Crew
19. Abercrombrie & Fitch
20. UCB
21. Levis
22. Bonita
23. Calvin Klein
24. Guess
Merchandising Department
12
Sampling Department
Quality control Department
Production Planning and Control Department
Fabric & trims Sourcing Department
Fabric Store and Inspection Department
Trims Store and inspection Department
Purchase Department
HR Department
Accounts finance department
Industrial Engineering Department
Computer Aided Design Department
Computerized Embroidery Department
Cutting Department
Sewing Department
Washing Department
Finishing Department
Packing and Dispatch Department
Shipping Department
ACTIVITIES UNDERTAKEN
13
14
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Product development
Through Designers
Through Buyers
Through Designers
Designers create new design and showcase for buyer. After buyer review they
select and advice to develop the liked design as it is or with some modification
like change in fabric, lace, button, minor design change or even with reduce
price, quality of fabric and trim
Through buyer
Buyer provides their own techpak and accordingly asks for sample
development. After receiving the sample some time they do change or if liked as
it is they place order but very important is costing. Sometime costing meet an
issue so Buyer reduce trims and fabric quality change
Now after the design and cost is approved by Buyer the samples are produced
for that design and these samples are called as Sales Man Sample (SMS).
15
16
In this colours are mentioned intensity of colour is mentioned. Which colour yarn
should be used in which place everything is clearly mention. This is sended for
approval first to buyer for production of or development of fabric.
In the same way fabric prints are sended for approval
17
If buyer approve the design than he may ask for sample for approved colour or
all colours or may say to make change also, by making minor or major changes
then after making change again the print approval is taken from buyer .
After the print approval, supplier makes a desk loom for buyer or merchant
Desk loom is small swatch piece which show the real concept of fabric and how
the actual fabric will look like in actual colour made by actual printing machine
or at actual loom
18
Actual Deskloom
19
This are the different samples made at different stages merchandising process
and after the approval or getting comment and after correction next sample is
produced.
Proto stage: after the approval of the mock the merchandiser produce 3
to 4 proto sample which is a complete garment having all the
characteristic and changes which buyer want ,this may or may not be
made on approved final fabric , as this only made to show the final
garment design which is follow-up by approved mock ,in this the seams
and stitches are made according to buyer requirement ,merchandiser
calculate the consumption of raw material and jot down the procedures
which are carried out in the production of that garment so that he can do
costing accordingly. At this stage the first costing is done by
merchandiser. This costing is tentative as the sample is replica of the
final garment and even at this stage nothing is finalised.one sample
merchandiser make as his counter sample one is send to buying house
and one to the buyer.
21
moving then he gives bulk order, decides quantity, by size & colour wise
break up for the style. In SMS original fabric & trims are used. In SMS
sample its not just that garment is stitched and sended to the buyer. In
SMS also all the procedure which the production follower are done
accordingly. Sample is not only cut stitched and finished and costing is
done, here also the testing and quality checking is done. As the sample
is not experiment it is also sold to final consumer. Approval for SMS is
really crucial to any company. At this stage again costing is done this
costing is base for getting order from buyer as uptil now the buyer did not
place final order so costing and all procedure followed at this stage is
very crucial.
Sealer sample stage: the base size sample is made after doing the
changes as per buyer requirement and sended to buyer. After the buyer
give approval. The sample is sealed for production on this merchant right
comment which is to be taken care while production and this sample
must be perfect or correct. This is the sample which represents the final
requirement of the buyer and no changes are made after that .this
22
sample along with production file sended to the production unit. As uptil
now all the raw material likes fabric trims packaging etc. things are
already in house for production.
Sealer Sample
TOP sample stage: Once production is online, few pieces is taken out in
the middle of the production. Production pieces are sent to buyer as TOP
23
sample. All buyers do not ask for TOP sample. Purpose is to cross-check
whether factory is following PP sample specification or not.
Production
File is made for giving in production in which everything is clearly mentioned
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
24
Marker request
Pattern request
Sample request
TRS (Trims Requisition)
FRS (Fabric Requisition)
Work order
Purchase order
o Fabric PO
o Trims PO
Purchase Invoice
FPT (Fabric packaging test report)
GPT (Garment packaging test report)
The document or form is filled in the CRM to which is also called PO which
comprise of Marker Request, Pattern request and Sample Request. Sample
request comprise of all the process required for producing the sample that is
from washing the fabric to pressing to cutting stitching finishing and packing.
Trim Requisition and fabric requisition is a form which merchant fill and request
the store operator to issue as per requirement. This is hand written and signed
by merchant. Work order or operation bulletin is made by IT department for
calculation of SAM and also for the number of operator required for the
fulfilment of producing the garment. Example of one of the operation bulletin is
attached in Annexure. PO means purchase order it is a sheet given by buyer
which depict the total quantity required with specification of style no and colour
or any addition requirements .Fabric PO ensure the quality and quantity with
specification of colour and print required by merchant for production. Purchase
Invoice is actually a bill in which quantity and price with design code is written.
FPT &GPT is the most important document for any export house, these are the
test report which is attached to the document for shipment, given to the buyer,
and even needed by export house to ensure its quality, this is very important as
the export has to ensure the government that the product they are shipping to
the other country is as per the rules of that country and requirement of the
buyer.
25
FPT
PO is made
GPT
26
Garment
Buyer approval
given
to QA
Cutting
,trims
send given
to
for
final
check
finishing
stitching
/wash
and
dummy
if requied
Costing is done by
merchandiser
The raw materials used in sewing room other than fabric are called Trims.
On the other hand we can say that which materials are directly attached with
the fabric to make a garment are called trims. Like: Threads, buttons, lining,
Interlining, zippers, labels, care labels, etc. (Interlining is used as shape forming
/ preserving materials.)Trims are sourced before production trims are order
according to the requirement. Every trim has its own unique way to buy and
prices and Quality inspection techniques for example thread are bought on
scale of tex or tickets. Button are bought in Goss and weight, zippers and laces
27
are bought length wise and labels are bought numerically according to the need
or requirement
SL
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
Trims
Label (S)
Button
Zipper
Padding
Interlining
Down
Elastic
Thread
Twill Tape
Stopper
String/ Draw Cord
Piping Cord
Emblem
Logo print
D-Ring
Swivel Hook
Eyelet/ Grommet
Collar Stay
Cord Bell
Buckle
Rivet
Weaving belt
Hook & Eye
SL
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
Accessories
Poly bag
Elastic bag
Mini Poly bag
Master Carton
Inner carton
Size clip
P. P. band
Tag pin
Brass pin
Collar stand
Safety pin
Gum tape
Arrow sticker
Scotch tape
Barcode Sticker
Defect indicator
Tissue paper
Back board
Neck board
Butterfly
Numbering stickers
Hanger
Size sticker
24
Velcro tape
24
Carton pad
25
25
26
Shoulder pad
26
Plastic staple
27
27
Iron seal
28
Adjuster
28
Clip
29
Recco
29
Ball Chain
30
Elastic Threads
30
Size Tag
31
Shoulder Tape
31
Carton Sticker
32
Safety Sticker
33
Plastic clip
28
The most important and crucial part of garment production is sourcing of fabric.
As fabric supply decides and disturbs the time and action plan, cost of the
garment and all the process of production. According to the style and purchase
order quantity the fabric is order to the supplier or vendor. In Shahi they have
their own fabric production company that is Sarla fabric and there are other
vendors who suuply fabric to Shahi export like
Karma process
RMP
BVM
Jagdamba
fabric
Shahi dyeing
Shivam
Devansh
City TEX
Aayushi Fabric
R.S Expo
G.G Fashion
Poorani Fab
SVT
Dhuhil
International
SRS Fabric
Fabric is supplied by the vendors, proper charts are maintained for the vendor
supplies the time of order and delivery dates.
The order quantity and time of delivery is noted in the software when the
fabric is IN/Housed and and at what place it is placed. Before storing the
fabric in the store the fabric is tested for its quality different production
houses use different technique and scales the SHAHI EXPORT follow 4
point system. Fabric if come in small quantity than the lots is checked
29
manually.
And if the lots are large then they have a checking machine.
30
Here the fabric is checked for different defects mark it with stickers and also
not it down in files. According to the vendors Shahi has some acceptable
standards also. Defects which mainly come in fabrics are
Weaving defect
Contamination
Stitch mark
Needle mark
Wrong yarn
Loops
Stop mark
Missing pick
Reed mark
Missing end
Slub
Yarn slippage
Finishing defect
Smash
Handling stain
Pin hole
31
Miss pleating
Yarn pulling
Distortion
32
33
CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Fabric is issued from fabric store and given to cutting department her before
spreading fabric is washed for shrinkage if required than it is steam pressed if
required than is spread to spreading table according to the marker made.
Spreading of fabric is done both mechanically and by machine according to the
requirement. Spreading of solid cotton is mainly done by machine as not much
complication are there in solid fabric and the spreading time reduce to 1/10 by
mechanics by spreading machine so its cost and time effective
Spreading requirement
Shade Sorting
Correct ply direction and
adequate lay stability
Ply alignment
Correct ply tension
Elimination of fabric faults
Than marker is passed which is already design by CAD in a most cost effective
manner and according to the features of fabrics including fabric defects
34
Then the marker is attached to fabric my pins and tape. After that the fabric is
cut my portable knife or by stationary knife by the experience worker
Mainly small pieces are cut by stationary cutter for better result.
Another method in Shahi is automized cutting machine which reduces the time
and is most effective as the error is less in automized cutting machine.
35
After cutting each pattern or bundle are ticketed, in each ticket style no. ,chalan
no and lot no and size no is mentioned clearly so that no confusion occurs in
production.
After ticketing the bundles are made according to the style number size number
and lot number which is then send to the stitching department or embroidery or
printing department as per requirement.
36
STITCHING DEPARTMENT
Bundles of cutting came to stitching room with trims and samples.QA came and
tell the requirement and give adequate instructions to the stitching line
supervisors.
In Shahi each line have 16 to 20 stitching master over to them there are 1 to 2
supervisors. Sheetal madam merchandise and production unit have 2 lines
allotted. Line division is very necessary and is done according to the order
quantity. The biggest the order quantity the more is the no of lines u get. All
these arrangements are planned by the merchandiser.
In sampling unit each stitching master on an average stitch two garment in a
day and on an average 25 to 30 unit of garment in one line depending upon
difficulty level of the garment.
Shahi has all needed and specialised machine to make quality garments. Shahi
has following sewing machine
Smocking machine
Pintek machine
Fagotting machine
Peko machine
Blind hem
Computerized zig zag machine
Feed of farm ( for side stitch)
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
37
fading and change of garment hand feel depends very much on the stone ratio
to fabric weight which can vary from 0.5 to 3: 1.
'White' washes
This category of washing technique is a variation of basic stone wash procedure
and is normally applied to indigo-dyed jeans but can also be applied to other
vat-, sulphur-or reactive-dyed garments. It can further be divided into two major
groups according to its application methods.
The first involves the use of strong oxidizing agents such as sodium
hypochlorite or potassium permanganate for bleaching the garments. The use
of these agents is to obtain a much lighter shade than the previous two
methods. Excess oxidizing agents must be removed after washing to prevent
yellowing and tendering of the washed jeans.
In the second group of methods, the pumice stones are first pre-soaked in a
solution of strong oxidizing agent (either sodium hypochlorite or potassium
permanganate) and are applied to the garments by dry-tumbling. This will result
in a localized washing effect with clear blue/white contrast. This is also termed
as 'acid wash', 'snow wash' or 'ice wash'.
Enzyme washes
Cellulose enzymes are commonly used in this washing method. These
enzymes differ from that of amylase, used for removal of starches, in that they
are only selective to cotton of other cellulosic materials. Hydrolysis of the
cellulose causes the fiber to become weaker and depending on the degree of
treatment, some surface fibers will be removed when subjected to fabric-tofabric or fabric-to-stone abrasive action. This washing method tends to produce
a more level treatment especially when no stones are added during treatment
and the general appearance and hand feel are superior to those of the other
methods.
Then again garments are send to spotting where spots are removed. Than
garment is send for ironing .different type of iron is done according to the
garment and fabric type like
39
Hard iron
Soft iron with steam
Steam iron
After iron garment is send to final checking where thread ,finishing and all
features are finally checked than garment is packed as per buyer requirement
and some garment sample are send to the lab for GPT.
QUALITY PROCESS
Quality Lab
40
POSSIBILITY OF TESTS :
Tear Test
Seam Slippage
Zipper Strength
41
Supplied with two pressure feet of different size for different type of
fabrics.
42
The specimen is first creased under specified load for fixed time and is then
transferred to the measurement device, where one end of the specimen is held
in a spring loaded clamp and other is allowed to fall free under its own weight.
Now one need to read the scale fixed to moving clamp to know the deflection of
the clamped end from the horizontal. This angle gives the measure of the
Crease Recovery Angle.
Beasley Balance
Pilling Tester is designed to test the pilling (hair ball) characteristic of fabric and
knit fabric cloths. Simulating the condition of when weaving materials are worn,
it will have the appearance of lint. After rolling the specimen around a rubber
tube and turning in a winding box for a period of time, it is then compared to a
standard picture to determine its grade. Test results are usually determined after
comparing with standard pictures, the average of four tests per specimen.
43
Projection microscope
The projection microscope is the standard method for measuring wool fibre
diameter, and all other methods have to be checked for accuracy against it. The
method is also applicable to any other fibres with a circular cross-section
Martindale abrasion tester
To determine the abrasion and pilling resistance of all kinds of textile structures.
Samples are rubbed against known abradents at low pressures and in
44
45
Yarn
Fiber Identification
Yarn twist
Blend Percentage
Yarn count
Maturity of Cotton
Fabric
Fabric construction
Strength
Color fastness
Fabric serviceability
Dimensional stability
Fabric Construction
A) Reed/pick
B) Yarn count
C) Yarn twist
D) Fabric width
E) Gsm
Strength
F) Fabric gauge
method
method
method
46
Fabric serviceability
A) Fabric drape ASTM method
method
B) Skew rotation
C) Skew percentage
Chemical and auxiliaries
Percentage purity
Performance test
Moisture content
Stability
Solid content
pH of the solution
Viscosity
Water
Ionic nature
Ph
Compatibility
Hardness
Nature of impurities
Chloride content
Performance test
Calorific value
Process control checks
Shade comparison
Efficiency of IR dryer
In process trouble shooting
47
48
Garment Costing
Calculating the total cost of the garment is important, to determine its selling
price as well as to determine whether the garment is worth manufacturing....
Freight
Both air transport and sea transport are commonly used in delivering goods
from one country to another. However, the calculation for the charges of air
freight and sea freight are different, as follows:
Conversion Table
Yard to meter, Inch to Centimetre, Yard square to meter square..... Garments
Calculating the total cost of the garment is important, to determine its selling
price as well as to determine whether the garment is worth manufacturing.
The costing will be determined by a few relevant criteria, as the cost breakdown
will vary according to:
50
51
52
in doing each operation and they also manipulate the operation accordingly and
make calculation for that. Generally in Shahi they have slabs for efficiency and
they calculate SAM in two way
Software
o General sewing data
o Prosuit
Manual
Minutes x rating like 80% (efficiency slab) + Allowance
OTHER COSTS
Besides fabric cost and production cost, to determine the actual garment cost in
FOB prices several costs have to be included as follows:
Local transportation
Documents
Quota
Duty
Miscellaneous
Profit margin
In Shahi its little different as some more cost are also included in it like fuel
electricity, salaries& incentives etc are also included
53
54
GLOBAL LOGISTIC
CBM Cubic Meter
NOVCC Non Vessel Operated Cargo Carrier
FCL Full Container Load
LCL Less Container Load
ETA Expected Time of Arrival
ETD Expected Time of Departure
Sea
CBM = Length X Width X Height (CM) / 1000000 X total No. of ctn = Length X
Width X Height (Inch) / (1728*35.32)
Air
a. 7000 Cubic CM = 1 Kilo
b. 6000 Cubic CM = 10 Kilo ( for Bangladesh)
1. Length X Width X Height (CM) / 6000 = Kilo
2. Length X Width X Height (Inch) / 366 = Kilo
** Volume weight per carton (Kg) X Number of carton X Cost of Air freight per
Kg = Caring cost / Air
55
CARTON
Type of carton
DEPEND ON PAPER
DEPEND ON STITCHING
3. DEPEND ON PLY
DEPEND ON LINER
DEPEND ON SIZE
56
57
58
LEARNING OUTCOMES
59
CONCLUSION
60
During internship built upon the understanding, Merchandiser main role is follow
up of his/her own time action plan, understanding the requirements of different
departments and organising solution for it. Merchandiser should have enough
knowledge about Fabric, Trims, Costing and calculation, Inquiry Sheet,
Purchase Order Sheet, requisition forms, and other test methods and also
operation which are non-value adding. Merchandiser must know the sequence
of the operation by working in different department of export house.
Merchandiser acts as a link between the buyer and the manufacturer. It is
his/her responsibility of ensuring that the product is developed as per the
requirements of the buyer. Merchandiser must have good communication skill
as it is his responsibility to source raw material and services, producing sample,
getting approval on samples and communicating with the buyer. Merchandiser
is also the like between the production and the buying agent or buying house.
Merchandiser work on number of styles at a same time ensuring that the
production been done as per schedule and inculcate the solution of all the
problems and expectation of buyer by arranging things required by the buyer as
convenient as possible.
61