HISTORIC HYDERABAD

THE PARIS OF THE PAST!!!!! !!!!!!!

HYDERABAD PROFILE By: Jawed Akhter, Toronto Canada.

BACKGROUND & HISTORY:

Hyderabad Sindh , Former Capital of Sindh, the 3rd largest city of Pakistan and 2nd largest city of Sindh home
to almost 2 million people is one of the oldest cities of South Asia. Hyderabad is a very unique city in so many
ways and not so different from many other historic cities of the world in terms of fate and destiny.
Hyderabad Sindh has been on the crossroads of various warriors, rulers, and travelers and has benefited and
suffered from time to time. Like Athens, Rome, Paris, Istanbul, Baghdad, Damascus, Delhi, Cairo, London;
Hyderabad Sindh also stands tall and proud with full force of modern day hustle and bustle to tell you the story
of its past, present, and future to every visitor. It is also Cultural Capital and Literary Capital of Sindh ; A city of
Artists, Artisans, Writers ,Poets, Politicians and Activists. Nerve center of every mass movement in Sindh
Hyderabad has a Glorious past and once it was known as PARIS of Sindh when its streets were washed with
Perfumes and city lamps were lit by pure butter. But sadly it all ended when British took control of the city on
March 24th in 1843 in a fierce and bloody battle of Miani under the leadership of Sir Charles Napier of East India
Company.
The Great son of Hyderabad Sindh; the General of the Sindhi Army HOSH MUHAMMED SHEEDI SHAHEED fought
fiercely with British till his last breath. British Army was shocked and very much impressed by his bravery the
way he fought by carrying a cannon on his shoulders on the towers of Hyderabad fort. He was given official
salute by British army after his martyrdom.
Hyderabad Sindh is a city of Three Hillocks (GANJO TAKKAR, Being the tallest one and famous one as a place of
worship; Ganjo Takkar Sindhi words meaning Barren Hill) on the banks of Sindhu river (Sindhu is a Sindhi word
for Indus) and the great Kalhoro ruler Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro founded the city in year 1768 AD. He named it
after Hazrat Ali Haider the fourth caliph of Islam. He loved the city so much that he declared the city the Capital
of Sindh and ordered to build a magnificent fort PAKKO QILO (Sindhi words for a Strong Fort) to defend the
people and kingdom from all the outside invasions. The fort covered 36 acres of land surrounded by man made
creeks and DHANDS (Sindhi word for Depressions) which were fed from the Phulleli Canal. Boats used to sail in
these creeks. Modern day Khai Road, Tank # 1,2,and 3 and DomanWah are the relics of those creeks. All the
cannons from Hyderabad Fort were shifted to Lahore when one unit was imposed on Pakistan in 1955 and
Lahore was declared as Capital of West Pakistan. Till this day Cannons of Hyderabad Sindh are kept in Lahore.
Previously in pre-Islamic times Hyderabad was called as Neroon Kot. Sindhi words meaning Place of
Neroon ruler of that time.
In earlier history of South Asia; Subcontinent was divided in two separate great kingdoms of HIND ( meaning
India) and SINDH.
SINDH had greater and closer contacts with Arabian Peninsula, Afghanistan, Iran, Iraq, Greece, Turkey, and
Europe than with India. Since then Hyderabad has seen various travelers from Persia to Arabia, faced Greek,
Turk, and Mongolian armies, and finally British. Being on the crossroads Hyderabad Sindh has become an
Archeological Oasis.
Sindhu river or river Indus in English has ruled and regulated Sindh and Hyderabad socially, culturally,
economically and politically. It has decided the fate of Sindh and Hyderabad in war and in peace times.
Hyderabad and Sindh are so intertwined to each other that Hyderabad is called the CULTURAL CAPITAL of SINDH

and it has always been the major transportation hub due to its central location in Sindh.
Hyderabad is city of Saints and Sufis as hundreds of shrines are scattered all over the city. Hyderabad has been
influenced by all the great faiths from Zoroastrians to Buddhists, Hinduism to Jainism, and from Christianity to
Islam between different periods of time thus becoming a very religiously tolerant city by nature.
After the death of Great king Kalhoro started the Talpur rule and Mir Fateh Ali Khan Talpur became the new ruler
in 1789. It was a Golden time in the history of Hyderabad. Talpur rule lasted more than 50 years and ended in
1843 after British attack. Year 1843 is a dark period in history of Hyderabad Sindh when people lost their
independence; Sindh became a British Colony and People of Hyderabad became slaves.
British destroyed the Hyderabad fort, Looted the royal treasures and burned down most famous and glorious
Mirs Court and Palace inside the fort. Demolished most of the buildings around the fort to accommodate British
troops and constructed military stores.
Royal family members and male princes were paraded naked on the streets of Hyderabad and were used as
horses in carriages controlled by British Viceroy Charles Napier by using hunters. The crown of being a Capital of
the emirate of Sindh was then transferred to Karachi. Hyderabad Sindh lost its glory, and people went into deep
depression. No longer were the roads covered with perfume but they were covered with blood. It is important to
note that the British held most of their Regiments and Ammunition in Hyderabad Sindh during the first war of
independence of 1857 due to its central and very important strategic location.
Prior to 1947 Hyderabad Sindh was a combination of both Muslims and Hindus communities
speaking the same Sindhi language and sharing the same Sindhi Culture.
Hyderabad was a great trading and commercial city and a big export centre for products made in Sindh. The city
was flourishing with Parks, Water fountains, and Illuminating Lamps. The population of the city was based upon
25% Sindhi Hindus and 25% Sindhi Muslims. When partition of subcontinent and creation of Pakistan occurred
in 1947 Sindhi Hindus expected to remain in Hyderabad Sindh because there was a very good relationship
between Hindu Sindhis and Muslim Sindhis. When large waves of Muslim refugees from India started to pour
into Hyderabad Sindh, Violence erupted again on the streets of Hyderabad. First massacre of Sindhi Hindus took
place in very famous LONG BHAGHAT STREET. After 1843 Hyderabad went again into darkness & deep
depression and local residents were shocked and confused. Sindhi Hindus were forced to flee leaving everything
behind and Sindhi Muslims and Local Police were merely onlookers. Newly arrived refugees from various parts of
India settled in the homes and lands which belonged to Sindhi Hindus.
After 1947 with the influx of people from across the borders Hyderabad Sindh saw its numbers increasing in
population and even became the largest city of Sindh province of Pakistan for a while according to population
stats of that time. Hyderabad all of a sudden found a new glory and regained its title of being a capital of Sindh
again for a short while. Government of Sindh proposed the creation of two more suburbs named as Latifabad( in
the honour of most famous and great poet-saint of Sindh Hazrat Shah Abdul Latif Bhitai) and Qasimabad of
considering the future growth and population explosion in Hyderabad Sindh. It really healed the wounds of
Hyderabad Sindh big time.
It all happened so fast like seeing a dream and then it was all over. Karachi was declared the Capital of Sindh.
Hyderabad fell victim to mean and dirty politics and became the most neglected city of Pakistan and was hit so
hard that every day was a nightmare.
In early 1970s Hyderabad witnessed the first ever Language riots between Sindhi speaking and Urdu speaking
residents of this city. City was drenched in blood and suffered a huge loss as its landmarks such as Mukhi
House, Sindh University, Sindhology Museum, Sindh Museum and Sindh Text Book Board were looted and then
burnt down into ashes. Laying a first foundation of ethnic divide in the city.
Then came the dark era of Late 1980s and early 1990s when Hyderabad Sindh was soaked in blood bath,

ethnic riots, and civil war between native Sindhis and Urdu Speaking settlers.
Hyderabad Sindh became the Beruit of Pakistan and the city had never been the same again. Forever divided by
ethnicity, deeply scarred by racial hatred like a modern day city of Beruit in Lebanon. It was 4rd time in a row
that streets of Hyderabad were covered in blood after 1843, 1947 & 1972. Again there was a mass exodus of
population. Native Sindhis have to flee from City and Latifabad leaving everything behind and settle in
Qasimabad. It is the dark chapter in the history of Hyderabad Sindh and a black spot on the city.

UNIQUENESS OF HYDERABAD SINDH:

Hyderabad Sindh has many unique things but most of all it is surrounded by tall beautifully hand painted
permanent flag poles in the honors of martyrs of Karbala the family & companions of Holy Prophet (May Peace
Be Upon Him) keeping the tradition of early rulers of Hyderabad and thats why Observance of holy month of
Muharrem is very unique in Hyderabad. Various areas of old city are named behind the term(PIR) a Sindhi word
for a locality. Following are some more unique features of the city.
1. CITY OF WIND CATCHERS, Hyderabad Sindh is known as city of MANGH Sindhi word for Wind Catchers.A
triangular structure on the rooftop funneling the cool breeze into the homes below. If we look the rare pictures
of Hyderabad in 1800 the skyline of city is dotted by unlimited windcatchers. But after 1960 construction
patterns changed and Windcatchers has become a symbol of the past. A part of Heritage of Hyderabad.
Currently Hyderabad Government headquarters building has windcatchers as a proud symbol of the city in its
architectural design.
2. LONGEST BAZAAR OF ASIA, Hyderabad has this honour to have the Longest Bazaar in Asia. This Bazaar is
called SHAHI BAZAAR meaning Royal Bazaar founded by Kalhora rulers. It is 4.5 KM long and starts from the
Market Chowk (Square) all the way ending at the front of Hyderabad Fort. One can buy from world renowned
diamonds and gold jewellery to a stitching needle. This is a bazaar of contrasts where new and old mix and
mingle in a very traditional way with all the hustle and bustle. On both sides of the bazaar is the web of
hundreds of narrow streets which connect to different parts of old city like arteries. This Bazaar also extends to
two very different, Diverse and large Bazaars known as CHOTKI GHITTI, and RESHAM GHITTI. Ghitti is a Sindhi
word for a narrow street. Shopping in these bazaars is a lifetime experience.
3. LARGEST BANGLE PRODUCER IN THE WORLD, Hyderabad Sindh has also the honour of being the largest
Glass Bangles producer in the world. Glass Bangles made in Hyderabad Sindh are exported to all over Pakistan
and in International market. Bangles of Hyderabad are so unique and eye catching and there are thousands of
different kinds to choose from.
4. HOME OF AJRAK, Ajrak the world famous Sindhi traditional fabric worn by all men,women and children and a
Symbol of Sindhi Culture and Honour. It is always presented to guests, visitors and as a priceless gift of all
occasions from festivals to weddings. Ajrak making centers are scattered all around Hyderabad where artists are
always busy to create new design and patterns on Ajrak.
5. CAKES OF LEGENDRY BOMBAY BAKERY, Hyderabad is famous in the world for its mouthwatering unique cakes
and they just melt in your mouth. These cakes are one of a kind and their unique formula is tightly kept family
secret to this day. This bakery is also part of the proud heritage of this city and these cakes have become a
sweet symbol of the city and proudly given as sweet gifts. To get the cake one has to visit the bakery very early
as cakes are sold in no time.
6. PALLO Fish, Hyderabad is also home of the famous Sindhi fish called PALLO only found in River Indus.
Hyderabad being on the banks of the river Indus becomes a central point for this fish treat. PALLO fish swims in
opposite direction in the river Indus and extremely tasty and cooked in so many ways and is an integral part of
Sindhi Cuisine in the city.

7. SIR COWASJI JEHANGIR PSYCHATRIST/SUNATIC ASYLUM, Hyderabad has the prestige to have the largest
facility for mental health in Asia. It is covered on 25 acres of land in Hussainabad. Historically the founder of
Hyderabad the great ruler Ghulam Shah Kalhoro asked his associate Diwan Giddumal to establish this
recreational port on river Indus known as Gidu Bander nowadays called as Hussainabad. British Army before
their attack on Hyderabad landed on this port and renamed it as One Tree Bander.
8. AIR UNIVERSITY, Hyderabad has the honour to have the largest Air University in Asia known as Civil Aviation
Training Institute where students from different parts from the world learn how to fly commercial planes and
study in the fields of Air traffic services and communications operations, Electrical Engineering related to
Aircrafts and Aviation Management and Fire fighting services. This facility was founded in 1982 and spread on
over 230 acres of land adjacent to Hyderabad Airport. ICAO based in Montreal Canada awarded this facility
status of Regional Institute in Asia in 1988

LANDMARKS OF HYDERABAD:
1. PAKKO QILO Hyderabad Fort. It is worth to visit the remains of the Mirs Darbar, Grave of General Hosh
Muhammed Shaheed, and the magnificent structure of the fort. It is heartbreaking to see that fort is under
siege of encroachment by dwellers. This brutal occupation has destroyed the fort and needs immediate attention
to restore its grand past.
2. MARKET CLOCK TOWER. The tall standing structure and the defining skyline of the city is Navalrai Market
clock tower constructed in 1914.
3. THE KUTCHERY or COURT COMPLEX. A grand architectural landmark of the city and has honour to be the
Parliament for a short while while Hyderabad was capital of Sindh after creation of Pakistan. The center piece of
the building is DARBAR HALL a must see. This building was destroyed in great fires of 1906 and a new one was
constructed keeping the same design intact.
4. NAVA VIDYALA. Now known as Sindh University old campus was built in 1912. It has a very impressive
European style look.
5. NAVAL RAI HIRANAND ACADEMY. Now known as Govt High School was built in 1900 as one of the elite
schools of the city.
6. CIVIL HOSPITAL. British built this hospital in 1894 and till this day is one of the major hospital of the city.
7. RAILWAY STATION. British built this beautiful and historic building in 1890.
8. SADDAR. British built a huge Cantonement in Hyderabad from 1851 to 1856. This area consisted of large
barracks, officers bungalows and historic church of St.Thomas . Now this whole area is known as Hyderabad
Canntt: /Saddar.
9. THE HOLMSTEAD HALL. It was also built by British in 1905 in the memory of Dr. Homestead a famous civil
surgeon of Hyderabad.
10. MUKHI HOUSE. This beautiful and magnificent building was built in 1900 by a very famous tradesman of
Hyderabad.
11. MIAN KAQIR JO PIR AND MAI KHARIEY MASJID. In 1908 Hyderabad Municipality constructed a municipal
market to upgrade the area and Mai Kheriey Masjid is one of the oldest mosques in the city.

12. NOOR MUHAMMED HIGH SCHOOL. This historic school was built in 1933 and played a very important role in
Pakistan Movement.
13. CIRCUIT HOUSE. This was an official accommodation for british royals and was built in 1912 . Nowadays it is
also used to accommodate presidents and Primenministers of Pakistan while visiting Hyderabad.
14. BADSHAHI BUNGALOW. It is the wonderful palace of Prince Mir Hassan Ali Khan Talpur the son of the last
ruler of Hyderabad His Highness Mir Naseer khan Talpur. This Palace is located in Tando of Talpur Mirs in
Latifabad.
15. THANDI SARAK. ( COOL STREET) As it says from the name this street is really a cool street lined with trees
and very beautiful and one of the most important streets of the city. Major expensive hotels, fast food
restaurants Airlines offices,& Govt: Main Offices are located on this street. Hyderabad is very famous for its
breeze that flows at night making it pleasant and clean.

HYDERABAD - IN MODERN TIMES:

Hyderabad Sindh is a booming metropolis with all the hustle and bustle of a big city. Hyderabad has a hot and
humid climate with cool and breezy nights. Very well connected by road,rail and air with all the major cities of
Pakistan. Right now city is going through a rapid modernization program. New flyovers, pedestrian bridges, new
bus terminal, shopping malls, five star hotels, amusement parks, new hospitals, trauma center, and a new
transport system are planned and work has begun on various mega projects. Hyderabad Airport has been
reopened after a long time and flights for major cities in Pakistan has resumed. All major foreign banks and
foreign fast food chain restaurants have opened up their branches in Hyderabad due to increased industrial,
economic, and commercial activity in the city. High rise buildings are rising all over the city in different parts and
Hyderabad Sindh is marching fast towards a bright and happy future to become a livable modern, green and
clean environmentally friendly city in the new century. Hyderabad has 4 universities and a huge number of
schools, and colleges. Hyderabad has 2 radio stations Radio Pakistan and Sachal FM radio station and 5
Television stations based in the city are KTN, KTN NEWS, KASHISH TV, SINDH TV, and DHOOM TV. Huge number
of newspapers and magazines are published and printed from the city but the famous ones are Daily KAWISH,
Daily IBRAT, and Daily SAFEER. City has also a world class one of a kind state of the art web portal of
APNAHYDERABAD.COM
PLACES TO VISIT.
1. Sindh Museum
2. Institute of Sindhology (There are only 2 such kind of museums in the world one in Egypt and the other
in Hyderabad Sindh).
3. Rani Bagh Zoological Gardens
4. Almanzer Recreational Spot
5. City Park
6. Tombs of Mirs and Kalhoras
7. Sindhi Language authority
8. Handicraft stores selling traditional Sindhi arts and crafts including Sindhi JANDI furniture, embroidery,
Sindhi caps and jewellery.
While visiting Hyderabad please do not forget to drink Traditional Sindhi drink THADAL a cool combination of
local herbs, almonds and pistachios.
Updated: 2nd Largest City of Sindh and 3rd Largest City of Pakistan Confirmed by PTDC