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Amigurumi To Go
Finally after 2 years I revised my Coraline
pattern and it was long over due! My hope
was to make the pattern easier and less
fiddly but with that said this is still a
pattern for a crocheter with some
experience. I have a step by step video that
follows along with the pattern however
please be aware there are parts that a
beginner will find difficult to do.
Please read through the special notes and
also the supplies needed before starting the
pattern. I used Red Heart worsted weight
medium #4 yarn in bright yellow for the coat
and boots, off white or creamy color for the
skin, dark blue for pants and a vibrate blue for the hair. A skein of each is way more than what you will actually
use.
Please note I do note keep or give out color codes. Use worsted weight yarn and colors of your own choice.
Copyright 2013 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go, All rights reserved
Attention members of all cross stitch and DIY sites
Text and images contained inside this pattern are not authorized to be sold as a cross stitch pattern nor shared in
full or in part on any cross stitch site nor on any DIY site nor on any website. This does not exclude sites or
members of sites posting copyrighted material under the guise of educational purposes.
Text and images contained within this pattern are not authorized to be traded, given, received or sold for points,
gold coins or for any other form of monetary value.
Text and images contained within this pattern are not authorized to be placed in full or in part on any website,
book, magazine, page or forum.
Using one image with a link back to the pattern is permitted
Finished products can be sold.
Special notes: I worked in continuous rounds with a 3.75mm hook and worsted weight yarn. Have any questions
or if you come across a mistake in the pattern please leave a message in the comment section below. This
pattern will give you a doll about 8 1/2 inches tall depending on your choice of yarn and hook size.
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
2tog = 2 stitches together
sl st = slip stitch
f/o = finish off
BLO = back loops only
FLO = front loops only
hdc = half double crochet

Supplies used:
3.7mm hook
3 different colors of worsted weight medium #4
buttons for eyes
sewing needle
yarn needle
optional * 20 gauge wire
4 pipe cleaners
fabric tac or tacky glue
optional * brown felt pen for freckles
How to read the rows: Each row has a sequence as given below. For example 1sc then 2sc in next st means
repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that
particular row. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of
that particular row.
Video Tutorial here and video is in order as follows:
1. How to make an adjustable loop or magic circle
2. How to make the head, neck and body
3. How to make and add in the neck stabilizer
4. How to stuff and close up the body
5. How to make the boots, legs and arms
6. How to sew on the legs and arms
7. How to make and sew on the coat collar and the hood
8. How to make and sew on the ears
9. How to root the hair
10. How to add in the face (button eyes, nose and mouth)
11. How make and add on the coat pockets (link to written part here)
12. How to make the button key and link to messenger bag
Head:
starting with whatever color you will use for the hair
1) magic circle with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7) switch to skin color on first st, sl st next st then 1sc in next 34st (36)
8-17) 1sc in each st for 10 rows
18) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (27)
19) 1sc then 2tog (18)
20) 1sc then 2tog (12) *stop and stuff head. Stuff the head as much as you can, making sure to shape as you
stuff. Use a pencil or stuffing stick and make a hole in the stuffing, right in the middle. This hole is for the pipe
cleaners you will put in later.
21) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (9)
now we will be making the neck then onto the coat
22-25) 1sc in each st for 4 rows (9)
26) 2sc in each st (18)

27) switch to coat color on first st, sl st next st then 1sc in next 16st (18)
28) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
29-36) 1sc in each st for 8 rows
*now stop and stabilize the neck. For this I cut a piece of 20 gauge wire about 24 inches long (2 times the length
of a pipe cleaner). I folded it in half then folded it in half again and twisted it as pictured. The 20 gauge wire is
optional but it does make the neck super stabilized yet still poseable. Don't worry if you don't have the wire as the
pipe cleaners will work on their own just fine. Take 4 pipe cleaners and fold them in half and twist them around
the wire. Put in a pencil or stuffing stick inside the head and work it around to re-open that hole you made earlier
in the stuffing! This step just makes it easier to push the stabilizer in. Push the wire into the neck making sure you
go far enough in so that the other end is level with row 36. Take the piece out, taking mental note of the area that
sits inside the neck itself and add a thin layer of fabric glue (tacky glue will work too) just to the part that sits in the
neck. This step will ensure that the stabilizer will not come out of the neck later. Let the glue dry for a minute or
two then continue onto row 37.

click on pictures to enlarge them

37) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)

38-39) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
40) FLO 1sc in each st
41) 1sc in each st
sl st next st and f/o. Weave yarn tail in to
hide it.
By crocheting in the front loops for row 40 you created a
ridge on the inside as pictured below. This is where you
insert the color you will use for the pants.
1) pull through one of the loops of that ridge then put 1sc
around for 1 row. The end of the ridge will be a bit higher
than the beginning so just join them with a sc
2+) Crochet 2tog until you close the gap, make sure to
add in any stuffing the body needs before closing the gap.
f/o and hide yarn tail in body
Boot and Leg:
starting with yellow we begin with the sole of the boot
1) ch 8
2) starting with the 2nd chain from the hook, 1sc in each
st (7) now continue working around on the other side of
the chain, 1sc in the outer loops (arrows pointing to the
outer loops on other side of ch). (14)
*make sure to add a marker in the last sc you put in and
move that marker at the end of every row
3) 2sc in next 4st, 1sc in next 6st then 2sc in
next 4st (22)
4) 1sc in each of the BLO (22)
5) 1sc in each
6) 2tog 3 times, 1sc in next 10st then 2tog 3
times (16)
7) 2tog 2 times, 1sc in next 8st then 2tog 2 times (12)
8) 2tog, 1sc in next 8st then 2tog (10)
9-11) 1sc in each st for 3 rows

12) switch colors on first st then sl st next st then 1sc in next 8st (10)
13-17) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.
Top Rim of Boot:
1) ch 13 (chain less if the beginning and the
end of the chain overlap when placed around
the boot). Sew to the top edge of the boot.
Hide yarn tails inside leg. Pin the legs in place as pictured and make sure you are happy with the placement and
that they are centered.before sewing them in.

Arms:
start with yellow
1) magic circle with 5st (5)
2) 2sc in each st (10)
3-9) 1sc in each st for 7 rows
10) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (8)
11-12) 1sc in each st for 2 rows switch to
skin color on last st of row 12
13) sl st first st, 1sc in next 7st (8)
14) 2sc in each st (16)
15) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (12) *very lightly stuff arm. Do not stuff wrist or hand
16) 1sc then 2tog (8)
17) 2tog 3 times and f/o. Weave in and out through the remaining st, pull tight to close the gap, f/o and hide yarn
tail inside arm.
Arm Cuff:
1) ch 9 or 10 and sew it to the arm where the yellow changes to the skin color. Hide yarn tails inside arm
Pin the arms in place so that the top of the arms are level with the coat color then sew them in.
Front Strip on Coat:
1) ch about 17 f/o sew it or glue it down the front and middle of the coat, the bottom of the chain will wrap under
the coat. Hide yarn tails in body

Collar: With coat color

*sew this part on after the arms have been sewn on
1) ch 19
2) starting with the 2nd ch from the hook, 1sc in each (18)
3) ch 2 and turn, starting with the 3rd st from the hook,
1hdc then 2hdc in next st (27) f/o leaving a long tail for
sewing. Pin into place as pictured then sew around the
bottom edge of the collar.
Hood:
1) magic circle with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7) 1sc in each st
8) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (27)

9) 1sc in each
f/o leaving a tail for sewing. Fold flat to shape
as pictured. Sew in place. The hood is only
for looks and is not big enough to fit over the
head
Ears:
*ears aren't completely necessary and you
can leave these out of the pattern. I chose
remove the ears from my Coraline doll. I left
the ear part in the pattern for you so at least
you have a choice.
1) magic circle with 5st (5)
2) ch1 and turn, 2sc in each st (10)
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Pin in place
with the top of the ears just under the 4th row
down from the color change on head
Hair:
wrap yarn loosely in loops. Once you have a good bundle
cut through the loops (one end only) so that you have
strands of yarn as pictured. You will make 2 or 3 of these
bundles before you are all done. You will root each strand
into blue patch on top of the head. I started on the 7th row
as shown in the 2nd picture below. Pull a strand through
a stitch on top of the head and then pull the yarn tails
through the loop and pull tight. Go around and around until
the blue patch is covered in less 2 or 3 rows from the
center as pictured below so the hair is not so thick on top,
you can fill that part in as well and it's just a matter of
preference. I found the hair is easier to style when not so
thick on the very top. The way I styled her hair the bald
spot is not seen.
Face:
tie the hair back so that you can work on the face. I show
how to do the face step by step in the video. It is hard to
explain in written form but I will do my best.
Eyes:
If you didn't use safety eyes you can sew in black buttons.
You could also glue the buttons in place!
Nose & Mouth:
with same color you used for the skin, (I use yellow here
because it shows better in the pictures).
1) Pull the yarn through a stitch on the face and ch3 then
f/o leaving a long enough tail to make a mouth.
2) Using a yarn needle bring the end you f/o through a
stitch just above where you originally pulled the yarn
through
3) and out where you want one corner of the mouth to be
4) now bring it over a few stitches as pictured so you have a strand running across
5) and then back out the corner you went in (one stitch over) and back over so that you have 2 strands running

across that make the top and bottom lip

6) bring the yarn tail out through the side of
the face and leave it hanging there. Now
bring the other yarn tail out through same
stitch the first yarn tail is coming out of. Knot
them together and hide the knot inside the
face and cut the excess yarn tails off.
You can use regular blush to add in some color on the
cheeks, lips and nose. Use a q-tip and gradually build up
the color until you are happy with the look. Use a brown
felt pen with a fine tip to dot in freckles. Make sure you
know exactly where you want the freckles because once
you dot them in there is no going back!

The pattern for the Messenger Bag is right here

And that's it, whew!! That was a lot of details but now you
have your own Coraline doll and I hope you had fun
making her! Please post pictures on my facebook page
Amigurumi Freely, if you do make a doll.
Happy Crocheting and all the best to you in 2014!!