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Denim comes in all forms, looks and washes to match with every dress . It would be
difficult to believe that the same denim was originally employed in clothing for the pants and overalls worn by miners on the west
coast(US). A number of technological factors have contributed to making denim the fashion icon that it is today including vast
improvements in spinning, weaving, finishing etc. One of the most important part of creation of the beautiful denim jeans is the
washing . Washing plays such an important part in the denim chain because of the umpteen effects that the consumers are looking
for on their jeans . Lets talk a bit about denim washing
1.PRE TREATEMENT
This is very first & basic step but most important step of washing. Here the fate of denim garment is decided that its going to
appear good or bad. Good Pre treatments avoid streaking, stiffness & color loss. This process removes impurities, starch
& stains during handling of fabric.
This step is also called desizing ( Removal of Size applied during denim fabric making in weft yarn ). All the woven fabric contains
size on them due to reasons to strengthen the yarn for weaving.There are many types of sizes available in the market but they can
be divided in two major groups.
1.
2.
2.Enzyme
Garments
Process
Of Denim
There are four kind of Enzymes available in market for Denim Laundry business..
Amylase . Desizing
Cellulase . For Salt & pepper effect , contrast
Laccase. bio bleaching
Catalase Peroxide killer
Enzyme is kind of protein that is obtained from fermentations method from naturally existing bacteria & fungi. The structure of
Enzyme is a biological polymer and it can be found in every cell. Generally called as Cellulase & it works on cotton( Cellulosic fiber
) only. Enzyme are living organisms which will attack a specific molecular group.
There are mainly three kind of Cellulase being used for Denim washing ,Neutral, Acid and Bio polishing Enzyme. Enzyme
are very sensitive with parameters in washing cycle i.e, pH , Temperature & time. If any of these parameters are not up to the
mark, result will not be accurate.
The reaction of enzyme can be easily controlled, its biodegradable products, so they eco friendly.
Bio Polishing Cellulase are being used to have protruded fiber removal from denim & oven fabric. This is also widely known
as Anti pilling enzyme.
Any Cellulase used in process must be cleaned/killed after the process completion by simply disturbing the parameters ie. By
raising high temp. or raising pH to alkaline where no Cellulase withstand.
Cellulase are available in 3 categories
Neutral
Acidic &
Hybrid enzymes.
Neutral enzyme gives better salt & pepper effect with very less back staining & its generally come sin powder form & also
retains better strength of fabric than acidic Cellulase. Where as acidic cellulase give faster resultsbut with too heavy back
staining & cuts down the indigo color, also affects the strength of fabrics.
Now a days laundry people needs faster results in less time & money hence chemical suppliers combined Neutral & acid cellulase
in such way that it works faster & with better results than acid cellulase with cost effectiveness & known as Hybrid enzyme.
Laccase is bio bleaching agent & alternative for conventional bleaching agents. This impart greyer cast to blue denim & enhances
salt & pepper effect. But due to high cost & low self life, laundries do not prefer it.
3.CLEAN UP
After finishing Enzyme wash it is must to add clean up process for better results & garments appearance & that can be done in
various ways & methods. As clean up is a must process to be carried out after every chemicals steps done for any garments which
allows next process to happen smoothly. All processes mentioned below kill/ deactivate the active enzymes process which
is necessary in order to protect/retain garment strength
a.Hydrogen peroxide in alkaline pH clean up enhances the brightness & rich blue tone of indigo.
b.By using non ionic detergents in medium to high temperature
c.By doing two good hot water rinse etc.
4.BLEACHING
This in one an important step in washing denim & can be done by various bleaching agents ..
Tinting is a process where very less amount of tint is involved & mainly direct dye is being used to do this process. This is being
done to change hue/cast/tone of indigo. As soon as quantity of tint color increases & it cover up indigo, reaches the level of dyeing.
Tinting being used to give garments a used / vintage & muddy look. This process takes from 5 minutes to 15 minutes time for
better results followed by dye fixing & clean up of superficial dye.
Dyeing is being done on very light shade of Indigo, Ecru/ grey denim & Ready for dyeing denim.
There are various Types Of Dye . THe comparison of these dyes is given in the chart herebelow:
1-Direct Dyes
2-Reactive Dyes
3-Pigment Dyes
4-Sulphur Dyes
Direct Dyes
Reactive
Dyes
Pigment
Dyes
Sulphur Dyes
Economical
Costly
Cost Efficient
Economical
Short Cycles
Long Cycle
Ease
application
of Water
Consumption
High
Machine
Sulphur Odour
contamination, & harsh hand
but hard to feel
obtain
consistency,
harsh hand feel
Smooth
Appearance
Smooth
Appearance
Smooth
Appearance
Smooth
Appearance
5.SOFTENING PROCESS
Softening process of Denim is very critical. As denim is very heavy in compare with other fabrics hence its needs softening. During
this process there is a big problem -the discoloration of denim i.e change in shade or loss of whiteness, giving a yellow tint is
commonly known as yellowing. By using normal softener will lead to ozone problem. Indigo dyed fabric are even more
prone to yellowing.
As its a widespread problem & there in no single reason for its cause. Instead a number of condition can singly or in combination
lead to the problem. Yellowing in not specific to certain fibers, finishes or washing processes. It is not specific to chemicals or
chemical treatment but certainly some of the factors among these can lead to the yellowing. As cotton & all organic polymers
develop yellowing in time.
Light , acids, impurities, detergents & chemical contribute to yellowing problems.
Temperature of drying & curing can impart yellowing due to scorching of the cotton. Therefore good control must be used to
minimize this type of damage.
Hence its advisable to use Antiozonate softener which prolong ozone reaction of Indigo & keep garment in good condition.
MINIMISATION OF YELLOWING RISK:
Its Impossible to eliminate yellowing but it is possible to prolong & reduce the conditions which causes classical yellowing:
Ensure bleaching neutralization & rinsing is proper
Minimize back staining
Avoid use of chemicals which cause yellowing
Avoid leaving garment in open air for longer time
Control drying & curing temperatures
Using right Antiozonate softener with right pH