* S T Y L E
Tuesday, May 25, 2004 13
Cannes’s high casual
A relaxed approach to sophistication
By Jessica Michault
he new united Europe showed
T its fashionable face at Cannes.
The film festival may have
been brought to life by its Hol-
lywood stars, from Quentin Tarantino,
the president of this year’s jury, with
his new partner, Sofia Coppola, to
Cameron Diaz and Uma Thurman. But
when it came to the gala gowns, this
was a strictly European affair — as if to
show that old Europe has the style edge
over the New World.
Movie stars from around the world
climbed the red carpeted steps in out-
fits that demonstrated that creativity
and sophistication are not mutually ex-
clusive. The parade moved the pallid
and timid Oscar’s red carpet into
second place in the glamour race.
It has been said of Cannes that the
festival always reflects the style and
taste of the president of the jury.
Tarantino, whose movie ‘‘Pulp Fiction’’
won the Palme d’Or 10 years ago, is
known for his relaxed and unpreten-
tious style. Perhaps that’s why this
year’s festival had a laid-back feel.
The 12-day festival felt like a summer
vacation. Maybe its nonstop mélange of
movie premieres, gala dinners and all-
night parties gave celebrities the cour-
age needed to mix things up a bit.
The haute couture dresses at Cannes
were worn almost casually by stars
who freely combined them with such
items as a scarf, hat or a fresh flower
tied to a wrist.
Dresses by European fashion
houses dominated. The usual suspects
were all there: Versace (Jennifer Anis-
ton and Sharon Stone), Chanel (Diane
Kruger), Louis Vuitton (Cameron
Diaz), Valentino (Saffron Burrows),
Lanvin (Charlize Theron) and Chloe
(Coppola). Of particular note was the
plethora of Christian Dior dresses ad-
orning the backs of ‘‘the beautiful
people.’’ Although it was missing in
action at the Oscars this year, Dior
took Cannes by storm.
Its stars included Theron in an off-
the-shoulder gown worn to present
the Palme d’Or, Thurman in a crystal
embroidered ice blue dress for the
opening of ‘‘Kill Bill: Vol. 2,’’ and
Penelope Cruz in a cream-colored
haute couture dress. Then there was
Orlando Bloom’s squeeze, the actress
Kate Bosworth, in a fire engine red
gown at the ‘‘Troy’’ premiere and
Elizabeth Hurley decked out in a royal
purple animal print.
There were so many celebrities
wearing Dior gowns, jewelry and
makeup, a Web site was created just to
document who wore which Dior.
The laid-back couture was rein-
forced by hairstyles that looked natural
and serene. Hair was swept back in
easy chignons, gathered loosely over
one shoulder or flowing freely down
tanned backs. Cannes sent the message
that glamour didn’t have to be forced
International Herald Tribune
www.wireimage.com; Agence France-Presse (Cruz, Theyskens and Béart); The Associated Press (Diaz, Stone)
Above from left: Charlize Theron in Lanvin, Penelope Cruz in Dior beret and dress, Olivier Theyskens and Emmanuelle Béart at the ‘‘Kill Bill: Vol. 2’’ premiere, Cameron Diaz in
Vuitton with Dior earrings, Tilda Swinton in Boucheron necklace with Fendi bag. At left, Sharon Stone in Versace with Chopard bracelets and Rose Byrne with Chopard necklace.
and that beauty is not a synonym for
perfection.
Jewelry by and large was simple
and discreet. For the most part neck-
lines remained bare and earrings were
uncomplicated hoops or studs. The
trend was to wear chunky bracelets
and one significant ring with a large
precious stone.
Beautiful exceptions to this rule
were a Chopard necklace of multi-
colored teardrop stones worn by the
Australian actress Rose Byrne. And on
opening night, the British actress
Tilda Swinton accentuated the Gre-
cian drapes of her golden gown with
the Delilah necklace (which Nicole
Kidman wore in her hair at the Golden
Globes) and matching cuff bracelet
from Boucheron.
Handbags were reduced to glamor-
ous clutches in vibrant colors and
decked out in Swarovski crystals that
sparkled under the spotlights.
The aptly named Vanity Bag with its
mirrored front (for those last-minute
touch-ups) made its debut here. The
bag, which was created by Silvia Ven-
turini Fendi for the Fendi 2004 au-
tumn/winter collection, was carried by
Naomi Campbell, Catherine Deneuve
and Swinton.
enturini Fendi believes the bag
V was so well liked ‘‘because it ex-
alts the female vanity. It attracts
the glances from all eyes. It’s a game
and a provocation in the same time.’’
And she has high hopes for her new
creation. ‘‘I would like this bag to be-
come an aesthetic representation of the
feminine narcissism,’’ she says.
Cannes also proved that a young de-
signer could make a difference, in this
case Olivier Theyskens, head designer at
the French house of Rochas. Theyskens
dressed the French actress Clotilde
Courau, wife of the prince of Venice,
Italy’s king in waiting, in a sliver bustier
dress covered with black lace. Rochas
also created a one-of-a-kind dress for
the French actress Emmanuelle Béart, a
member of this year’s jury, to wear to
the premiere of ‘‘Kill Bill: Vol. 2.’’
‘‘I made the dress especially for Em-
manuelle,’’ said Theyskens. ‘‘I wanted
something that would match her deep
blue eyes, so I used a silk fabric that was
shot through with metal filament. Em-
manuelle is known for her femininity
and sensuality, and the dress reflects
that. The neck, shoulders and back are
all bare. I wanted it to look almost like
she had wrapped herself up in luxurious
sheets that she had just pulled of a bed.’’
Béart took such a shine to the young
designer that she asked him to accom-
pany her to the premiere, his first.
‘‘I love Cannes,’’ says Theyskens.
‘‘When I walked up the red carpet steps
it was like the world stood still for a
moment in time. Everything moved in
slow motion, but at the same time it
was over so quickly.’’
International Herald Tribune