Full Peacocks - SEPT 2010

GARMENT PERFORMANCE STANDARDS
INDEX
CARE LABELLING GUIDE
TRIAL ORDER OF 500 PIECES OR LESS
P1
WOVEN TROUSERS, SHORTS AND JACKETS
P2
SKIRTS, DRESSES & BLOUSES
P3
OUTERWEAR
P4
DENIM GARMENTS
P5
JERSEYWEAR FLEECE & LOOPBACK
P6
KNITWEAR
P7
SWIMWEAR, BEACHWEAR AND BEACH TOWELS
P8
NIGHTWEAR
P9
SUEDE & LEATHER GARMENTS
P 10
LININGS WOVEN AND KNITTED (INCLUDING POCKETS)
P 11
PVC, PU, SUEDE EFFECT COATED FABRIC GARMENTS
P 12
FAKE FUR FABRICS & FABRIC TRIMS
P 13
METAL/PLASTIC TRIMS AND FASTENERS AND BELTS
P 14
SOCKS/HOSIERY
P 15
LINGERIE
P 16
PRE-WALKERS/ BOOTIES
P 17
ADDITIONAL MANDATORY TESTING FOR BABY/TODDLER

PRODUCTS UP TO 6 YEARS
P 18
PLEASE NOTE FOR ALL SPECS

Test highlighted in Bold are MANDATORY TESTS
Updated: September 2010
CARE LABELLING GUIDE

Commonly used symbols:
Washing
Machine wash at 40 degrees
Machine wash at 40 degrees, mild treatment/ delicate
Machine wash at 40 degrees, very mild treatment/ very delicate
Hand Wash Only
Do not wash
Bleaching
Bleaching agent allowed.
Do not bleach/ no bleach
Drying
Item can be tumble dried, add 1 dot to the centre for low heat tumble dry and 2
dots for normal temperature.
Do not tumble dry.
Dry flat
Ironing
Item can be ironed. Dots in the middle of the iron indicate ironing temperature:
3 dots, up to 200 degrees celcius, 2 dots, up to 150 degrees celcius
1 dot up to 110 degrees celcius
Do not iron
Dry Cleaning
Professional dry clean, the letter inside the circle indicates the chemical to be
used.
Do not dry clean
Please print care symbols on

the label in the following
order:
General Information which MUST be listed on the test report is as

follows:
Garment description
Order number/Reference number
Name of factory, supplier& customer i.e. Peacocks
Qty of pieces sent for testing
Component type being tested if applicable including location of
testing i.e. inner waist button, pocket button etc.
Number and Date of any British Standards tested to
I.e. BS 7907:2007
P1
FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS
Trial order of 500 pieces or less (unless otherwise specified)

Issue Date: April 2008
PHYSICALS
TEST DESCRIPTION
Fibre Composition
METHOD
96/73/EC as amended by
2006/2/EC and 73/44/EEC
Garment Care Label Assessment

Garments with
Trims/Panels/Embellishments
Complete garments with all
components as production
In-house Method P 23
Security of Attachment Trims

(Childrens only)
Min. of 5 to be tested per item i.e. 5
waist buttons, 5 inner waist buttons
etc. MUST be tested on Production
garments
Rubbing
Dry
Wet
(on main body fabric)
BS 7907: 2007
Grippable - Pull Test
Non Grippable - Durawash

BS EN ISO 105 X12:2002
(Except White/Cream)
STANDARD REQUIRED
Single Fibre No tolerance
Blends + / 3% against declaration
Satisfactory
Baby/ Toddler (up to 6 years) 90N

Kids 6 15 yrs 70N
No removal of trims
STAINING
4
3
P2

WOVEN TROUSERS, SHORTS AND JACKETS
PHYSICALS
TEST DESCRIPTION
METHOD
2006/2/EC and 73/44/EEC
STANDARD REQUIRED
Dimensional Stability to Washing.

Care Label Wash & Iron to Recover
Dimensional Stability to Commercial Dry
Cleaning
(Dry Clean Only Garments)
BS EN ISO 6330:2001
Commercial Process

Length/Width +/-3%
Report results before and after Iron
Length/Width +/-3%
Dimensional Stability to Wira Steam

Test on a finished production garment.
Resistance to Abrasion
Martindale (Trousers Only)
BS 4323:1979 (1995)
Length/width +/-3%
Fibre Composition
BS EN ISO 12947-2:1998
9kPa
Accelerator Pile Loss

(Fabrics with surface pile, i.e cord/velour)
Seam Slippage
Seam Strength
AATCC 93:2005
Tear Strength - Elmendorf

100% Cellulosics &
Polyester/Cellulosic blends only
(Childrens only)
Min. of 5 to be tested per item i.e. 5 waist
buttons, 5 inner waist buttons etc. MUST
be tested on Production garments
Garment Durability Assessment
Garments with
Complete garments with all components
as production
BS EN ISO 13937-1:2000
BS EN ISO 13936-1-2004
BS EN ISO 13935-2:1999
Test on CUSTOMER SEAM
BS 7907: 2007
20,000 cycles to end point

Shade change 4 at 5,000 rubs
15% max. weight loss
Appearance loss negligible
Fabric weight = or <150GSM 5.5kg min
warp and weft SO 3mm
Strength 10KG
Fabric weight >150GSM 10kg min
Strength 12KG
1000g min

Kids 6 15 yrs 70N

No removal of trims
Satisfactory
COLOUR FASTNESS
Colour Fastness to:
Washing
COLOUR
CHANGE
BS EN ISO 105 CO6 A2S
Dry Cleaning
Water
BS EN ISO 105 DO1:2010
4
4
BS EN ISO 105 EO1:1996

BS EN ISO 105 X12:2002
Light
BS EN ISO 105 B02:1999
Panel Durability Embellishments

E.g. Sequins, Appliques, Glitter,
Plastercized Prints, AOP
In House Method P23
Rubbing
Dry
Wet
STAINING
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
3-4
(Contrast 4-5)
4
Synthetics 3
Natural fibres 2-3
-
Satisfactory.
P3

WOVEN DRESSES, BLOUSES & SHIRTS
Issue Date: November 2009
PHYSICALS
TEST DESCRIPTION
Fibre Composition
METHOD
2006/2/EC and 73/44/EEC
STANDARD REQUIRED

Care Label Wash # Iron to Recover
BS EN ISO 6330:2001

Cleaning
Commercial Process
Seam Slippage
Seam Strength
BS EN ISO 13936-1-2004
BS EN ISO 13935-2:1999
Tear Strength - Elmendorf

100% Cellulosics &
Polyester/Cellulosic blends only
BS EN ISO 13937-1:2000
700g min
Snagging
Fabrics made from or containing filament
yarns only
BS8479: 2008
2000 Revs
Grade 3-4

(Childrens only)
Garments with
as production
BS 7907: 2007

Length/Width +/-3%
Length/Width +/-3%
Fabric weight = or <150GSM 5.5kg min

Strength 10KG
Strength 12KG

Kids 6 15 yrs 70N
No removal of trims
Satisfactory
COLOUR FASTNESS
Colour Fastness to:
Washing
Dry Cleaning
Water
Rubbing
Dry
Wet
Light
COLOUR CHANGE
4
4

BS EN ISO 105 X12:2002
BS EN ISO 105 B02:1999
In House Method P23
STAINING
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
3-4
(Contrast 4-5)
4
3
-
Satisfactory.
P4

OUTERWEAR
PHYSICALS
TEST DESCRIPTION
Fibre Composition
METHOD
2006/2/EC and
73/44/EEC

Care Label Wash # Iron to Recover
BS EN ISO 6330:2001

Cleaning
Test on a finished production garment.
Seam Slippage (Woven only)
Seam Strength (Woven only)
Commercial Process
Spray Test Shower

Resistant garments only
Fibre Percolation
(Wadded garments only)
BS 4323:1979 (1995)
STANDARD REQUIRED
Length/Width +/-3% Woven
Length/Width +2 / -5% Knitted
Length/Width +/-3% Woven
Length/Width +2 / -5% Knitted
Length/width +/-3%
BS EN ISO 13936-1:2004
BS EN ISO 13935:2 1999
Test on CUSTOMER
SEAM
BS EN 24920:1992 (1996)
10kg. Minimum warp & weft SO 6mm

Strength: 15kg min
BS EN 12132-1:1999
Modified
Maximum 6 fibres after 6,000 cycles

(Childrens only)
waist buttons, 5 inner waist buttons etc.
MUST be tested on Production
garments
Resistance to Pilling
Modified Martindale
(Not Polar Fleece)
BS 7907: 2007

Garments with
Grade 4 Before Cleansing

Grade 3 After Cleansing

Kids 6 15 yrs 70N
No removal of trims
BS EN ISO 12945-2:2000
(After Cleanse)
Knitted 500 revs
Grade 3-4
Satisfactory
COLOUR FASTNESS
Colour Fastness to:
Washing
Dry Cleaning
Water
Rubbing
Dry
Wet
Light
COLOUR CHANGE
BS EN ISO 105 C06 A2S
4
4

BS EN ISO 105 X12:2002
BS EN ISO 105: B02:1999
In House Method P23
STAINING
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
4
3
-
Satisfactory
P5

DENIM GARMENTS
PHYSICALS
TEST DESCRIPTION
Fibre Composition
METHOD
2006/2/EC and 73/44/EEC
STANDARD REQUIRED
Dimensional Stability to washing

Care Label Wash
BS EN ISO 6330:2001
Martindale
BS EN ISO 12947-2:1998
15,000 rubs
(Appearance change to be noted)
Shade change @ 5,000 rubs for crossdyed & pigment dyed fabrics Grade 3
Seam Slippage
Seam Strength
BS EN ISO 13936-1:2004
BS EN ISO 13935-2:1999
Fabric weight =or <8.5oz 8kg min warp

and weft SO 6mm
Strength 12KG
Fabric weight >8.5oz 12kg min
Strength 15KG

(Childrens only)
garments
Garments with
BS 7907: 2007
Length/Width +/-3%

Kids 6 15 yrs 70N
No removal of trims
Satisfactory
COLOUR FASTNESS
Colour Fastness to:
COLOUR CHANGE
STAINING
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
Washing
Water

3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
BS EN ISO 105 X12:2002

4
3
2-3
(Dark Denim)
Satisfactory.
Rubbing
Dry
Wet

In House Method P23
P6

JERSEY WEAR FLEECE & LOOPBACK
PHYSICALS
Fibre Composition
TEST DESCRIPTION
METHOD
2006/2/EC and 73/44/EEC
STANDARD REQUIRED

Care Label Wash
Iron to Recover
BS EN ISO 6330:2001
Flat Dry
Tumble Dry
Polar Fleece Assessment
In-house Method P 6
Grade 3 (max)
Spirality
(Circular Knits Only)
In-House Method P2
Maximum 5%
Modified Martindale
(Not Polar Fleece)
BS EN ISO 12945-2:2000
(After Cleanse)
Knitted 500 revs

(Childrens only)
buttons, 5 inner waist buttons etc.
MUST be tested on Production garments
Garments with
as production
BS 7907: 2007

Ribs should not extend after washing
Length/width +2 / -5%
Length/Width +3 / - 7%
Grade 3-4

Kids 6 15 yrs 70N

No removal of trims
Satisfactory
COLOUR FASTNESS
Colour Fastness to:
COLOUR CHANGE
STAINING
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
Washing
Water

3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
BS EN ISO 105 X12:2002

4
3
Rubbing
Dry
Wet

In House Method P23
Satisfactory.
P7

KNITWEAR
PHYSICALS
TEST DESCRIPTION
Fibre Composition
METHOD
2006/2/EC and 73/44/EEC

Care Label Wash
TEST ON GARMENT
BS EN ISO 6330:2001
Chenille Pile Loss

(only for chenille)
In-house Method P 8
Modified Martindale
BS EN ISO 12945-2:2000
(After Cleanse)
STANDARD REQUIRED
Length/width +3 / -5%
No rib extension
No visible apparent pile loss

5% max weight loss
Grade 3
Knitted 500 revs

Bursting Strength
(Only test for Lace/Mesh fabrics)
BS EN ISO 13938:1999

(Childrens only)
garments
Garments with
as production
BS 7907: 2007
175 kPa

Kids 6 15 yrs 70N
No removal of trims
Satisfactory
COLOUR FASTNESS
Colour Fastness to:
COLOUR CHANGE
STAINING
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
Washing
BS EN ISO 105 C06 A2S
Water

3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
BS EN ISO 105 X12:2002

4
3
Rubbing
Dry
Wet
P8

SWIMWEAR, BEACHWEAR AND BEACH TOWELS
PHYSICALS
METHOD
STANDARD REQUIRED
Fibre Composition
TEST DESCRIPTION
2006/2/EC and 73/44/EEC

Blends + / - 3% against declaration

Care Label Wash
BS EN ISO 6330:2001
Length/width +/-3% Woven

Length/width +2 / -5% Knitted
Seam Slippage (Woven Only)
BS EN ISO 13936-1:2004
5.5kg min warp & weft SO 3mm
Seam Strength (Woven Only)
BS EN ISO 13935-2:1999
Test on CUSTOMER
SEAM
Strength: 10kg min

(Childrens only)
garments
Garments with
BS 7907: 2007

Kids 6 15 yrs 70N
No removal of trims
Satisfactory
COLOUR FASTNESS
Colour Fastness to:
COLOUR CHANGE
STAINING
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
Washing
Water

Chlorinated Water
BS EN ISO 105 :EO3:1997

Swimwear 50mg/l
Beachwear 20 mg/l
3-4
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
BS EN ISO 105 X12:2002

4
3-4
Sea Water
Rubbing
Dry
Wet
Light
BS EN ISO 105 B02:1999

In House Method P23
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
5
fluorescents:3
Satisfactory
P9

NIGHTWEAR
NIGHTWEAR MUST CONFORM WITH NIGHT WEAR ( SAFETY) REGULATION 1985 AND
EN 14878:2007 BURNING BEHAVIOUR OF CHILDRENS NIGHTWEAR

PHYSICALS
TEST DESCRIPTION
Fibre Composition
Care Label Wash
Spirality
METHOD
2006/2/EC and 73/44/EEC
BS EN ISO 6330:2001

Flat Dry
Length/width + 3 / -5% Knitted
Tumble Dry
In-House Method P 2

Maximum 5%
Bursting Strength (Lace Only)
BS EN ISO 13938:1999

BS EN ISO 13936-1:2004
BS EN ISO 13935-2:1999
Formaldehyde Spot Test

Free Formaldehyde
(Tests on finished garments)
In-House Spot Method
Flammability
BS 5722:1984/ EN
14878:2007 as applicable
BS 7907: 2007

(Childrens only)
Garments with
as production
STANDARD REQUIRED
BS EN 14184-1:1999
175 kPa min

Fabric weight = or <150GSM
5.5kg min warp and weft SO 3mm
Strength 10KG
Strength 12KG
PASS
Childrens - 20ppm (max)
Adult 30ppm (max)
Pass

Kids 6 15 yrs 70N

No removal of trims
Satisfactory
COLOUR FASTNESS
Colour Fastness to:
COLOUR CHANGE
STAINING
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
Washing
Water

3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
BS EN ISO 105 X12:2002

N/A
4
3-4
Rubbing
Dry
Wet

In House Method P23
Satisfactory.
P 10

SUEDE & LEATHER GARMENTS
PHYSICALS
TEST DESCRIPTION
Dimensional Stability to
Specialist Cleaning
Siloxane (Green Earth)
Perchloroethylene
Aqueous
Hydrocarbon
METHOD
STANDARD REQUIRED
Specialist Process in
conjunction with
UK Lab. only
Satisfactory
Appearance Assessment
(Complete Garment)
COLOUR FASTNESS
Colour Fastness to:
Water
Rubbing
Dry
Wet
Light
COLOUR CHANGE
BS EN ISO 105 X12:2002
STAINING
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
4
3-4
BS EN ISO 105 B02:1999
N.B Submit a full garment for testing or 3 component pieces (Including all trims & linings)
FOR LINED PRODUCTS REFER TO SPEC P 11 FOR FURTHER TESTS
P 11

LININGS WOVEN & KNITTED
PHYSICALS
TEST DESCRIPTION
Fibre Composition
Care Label Wash
METHOD
2006/2/EC and 73/44/EEC
BS EN ISO 6330:2001
STANDARD REQUIRED

Cleaning
Commercial Process

BS 4323:1979 (1995)

Martindale
(Woven Cellulosic Blends only)
Bursting Strength
(Knitted Fabrics)
BS EN ISO 12947-2:1998

Garments with
as production
(Linings to be included with
main body of garment)
5000 Rubs
BS EN ISO 13938:1999
BS EN ISO 13936-1:2004
BS EN ISO 13935-2:1999
250 kPa
Fabric weight = or <150GSM 5.5kg
min warp and weft SO 3mm
Strength 10KG
Strength 12KG
Satisfactory
COLOUR FASTNESS
Colour fastness to:
Washing
COLOUR
CHANGE
4
Dry Cleaning
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
Water

BS EN ISO 105 X12:2002
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
4
3-4
Rubbing
Dry
Wet
STAINING
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
TESTS TO BE CARRIED OUT TO CARE INSTRUCTIONS AS PER OUTER

FABRIC/END USE
P 12

PVC, PU, SUEDE EFFECT COATED FABRIC GARMENTS
PHYSICALS
TEST DESCRIPTION
Fibre Composition
METHOD
2006/2/EC and 73/44/EEC
Dimensional Stability to Washing

Care Label Wash
Cleaning
Appearance Assessment after
Steam (WIRA)
TABER
BS EN ISO 6330:2001
Seam Slippage
Seam Strength
BS EN ISO 13936-1:2004
BS EN ISO 13935-2:1999
Test on CUSTOMER
SEAM
BS 3424:1996 Part 9
Method C
ISO 7854 : 1995
BS 7907: 2007
Flex Crumple

(Childrens only)
Garments with
as production
STANDARD REQUIRED
NB. Quote backing & coating
separately
Length/width +/-3%
Commercial process
Length/width +/-3%
In-house Method P 7
Satisfactory
ASTM D3884:2007
CS10 wheels 1000g load

In-house Method P23
100 rubs Wear Rating 4

Shade change 4
Surface effects only No breakdown
or
removal of coating
10kg minimum warp & weft SO 6mm
Note nature of breakdown of coating
> 9000 cycles

No coating failure

Kids 6 15 yrs 70N
No removal of trims
Satisfactory
COLOUR FASTNESS
Colour Fastness to:
COLOUR
CHANGE
4
STAINING
Washing
Water

3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
BS EN ISO 105 X12:2002

4
3-4
BS EN ISO 105 B02:1999
Rubbing
Dry
Wet
Light
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
P 13

FAKE FUR FABRICS AND FABRIC TRIMS
PHYSICALS
TEST DESCRIPTION
METHOD
STANDARD REQUIRED
Fibre Composition
2006/2/EC and 73/44/EEC


Care Label Wash
BS EN ISO 6330:2001

Length/width +2/-5% Knitted
Fibre Shedding
In-House Method P28
Grade 3 - Moderate

Garments with
as production
Satisfactory
COLOUR FASTNESS
Colour fastness to:
Washing
Water
Rubbing
Dry
Wet
Light
Surface Flash
(Required for fabrics with
pile/hair/nap/surface texture over 3mm)
(Childrens wear only)
COLOUR CHANGE
4
BS EN ISO 105 X12:2002
BS EN ISO 105 BO2:1999
BS 4569:1983 (1990)
4
4
STAINING
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
4
3-4
-
No Surface Flash
P 14

METAL/PLASTIC TRIMS AND FASTENERS AND BELTS
TEST DESCRIPTION
METHOD
STANDARD REQUIRED
Zip Fasteners
BS 3084:2006

(Childrens only)
garments
Nickel Swab Test (If comes in contact
with the skin)
BS 7907: 2007
Nickel Release (if fails spot test)
BS EN 1811/ BS EN 12472
Compliance
Phthalates
(Plastic trims for childrens items up to
6 years)
EN14372
According to EU directive
2005-84-EC
MAX 0.1% by item mass
Toxicity
EN 71 Part 3
(Coated Items)
(Childrens Only)
Rubbing
Dry
Wet
(Dark colour belts with contact to light
colour fabrics.)
EN 71 Part 3

PD CR 12471:2002
BS EN ISO 105 X12:2002
Compliance with physical performance

(as appropriate)

Kids 6 15 yrs 70N
No removal of trims
PASS
Compliance
4
3-4
P 15

SOCKS & HOSIERY
PHYSICALS
TEST DESCRIPTION
Fibre Composition
METHOD
STANDARD REQUIRED
2006/2/EC and 73/44/EEC


1 x Care Label Wash
BS EN ISO 6330:2001
+3%/ -10% max

Fit appropriate NAHM sock board
before & after wash
Sock Abrasion
BS EN 13770:2002

(Childrens only)
BS 7907: 2007
(Excluding Welt Elastane)
Slight change on Heel and Sole at 10,000

cycles

Kids 6 15 yrs 70N
No removal of trims
COLOUR FASTNESS
Colour fastness to:
COLOUR CHANGE
4
STAINING
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
Washing
Water

3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
BS EN ISO 105 X12:2002

4
3-4
Rubbing
Dry
Wet
P 16

LINGERIE
PHYSICALS
TEST DESCRIPTION
Fibre Composition
Care Label Wash
METHOD
2006/2/EC and 73/44/EEC
BS EN ISO 6330:2001
Spirality
In house method P2
Seam Slippage (Woven fabrics)

Seam Strength (Woven fabrics)
BS EN ISO 13936-1:2004
BS EN ISO 13935-2:1999
Bursting Strength - Lace Only
BS EN ISO 13938-2:1999
Stretch Properties
(Fabrics containing 10% Elastane or less)
BS EN 14704:2005
Formaldehyde Spot Test
In-House Spot Method
Free Formaldehyde
Analysis of contents
Gel/ Liquid Pads
BS EN 14184-1:1999
Fourier Transform Infrared
Spectroscopy (FTIR) analysis
Bra Wire Punch Through
SW/MG/GL

Garments with
as production
STANDARD REQUIRED
Maximum 5%
8kg min warp & weft SO 6mm
Strength=10kg min
175 kPa min

Un-recoverable elongation after
30 minutes
Knitted 10% max
Woven: 5% max
PASS
30ppm (max)
No hazard to health on skin contact.
15KG
Satisfactory
COLOUR FASTNESS
Colour Fastness to:
COLOUR CHANGE
STAINING
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
Washing
Water

3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
BS EN ISO 105 X12:2002

N/A
4
3-4
Rubbing
Dry
Wet
Phenolic Yellowing
(White & pastel colours only)
BSEN150 105x18

In House Method P23
Grade 4
Satisfactory.
P 17

PRE-WALKERS/ BOOTIES
PHYSICALS
TEST DESCRIPTION
METHOD
STANDARD REQUIRED
Fibre Composition
2006/2/EC and 73/44/EEC

Machine washability
Label Wash #
SATRA TM 158
Abrasion resistance outsole materials

Age - Over 1 Years
BSEN 13520:2002
(Textiles) TM31
Slip Resistance
Age over 1 years
SATRA TM 144
Toy Safety
Novelty styles only
BS EN 71 Parts 1,2&3

(Childrens only)
Phthalates
(Plastic/ PVC/ rubber trims and prints)
BS 7907: 2007

EN14372
According to EU directive
2005-84-EC
No removal of trims
MAX 0.1% by item mass
Velcro Peel Strength
SATRA TM123
Initial 0.1N/MM
After cycling 0.8N/MM
Velcro Shear Strength
SATRA TM123
Initial 75Kpa
After cycling 65Kpa
<3% Shrinkage
No loss of adhesion
No significant loss of colour
No significant other change
Moderate wear after 10,000 revs
PVC Dot
Min 0.3
Max 1.25
On Clay tiles dry flat contact
PASS

Kids 6 15 yrs 70N
COLOUR FASTNESS
Colour Fastness to:
COLOUR CHANGE
Washing
Water

Rubbing
BS EN ISO 105 X12:2002

In House Method P23
Dry
Wet
STAINING
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
3-4
(Contrasts 4-5)
4
3
Satisfactory.
P 18

ADDITIONAL MANDATORY TESTING FOR CHILDRENSWEAR
PHYSICALS
TEST DESCRIPTION
METHOD
Phthalates
(Plastic/ PVC/ rubber trims and prints)
All Baby/Toddler products up to 6 years
EN14372:2004
Free Formaldehyde
(Tests on finished garments)
BS EN 14184-1:1999
STANDARD REQUIRED
MAX 0.1% by item mass for
DEHP/ DBP/ BBP/ DINP/
DIDP/ DNOP
20ppm (max)
PEACOCKS IN-HOUSE TEST METHOD

P2
December 2004
SPIRALITY
1) PURPOSE
To determine the Spirality which occurs in a material resulting from laundering procedures.
2) PRINCIPLE
A test Specimen is prepared in accordance with this method: Washed in an automatic
washing machine and dried according to specified procedures as agreed.
3) APPARATUS
a)
Automatic Washing Machine
b)
Calibrated tape or ruler
c)
Conditioning/ Drying racks
d)
Automatic Tumble Drier
e)
Make-weight 100% Polyester
f)
Over-lock Sewing Machine
g)
Marking Template
4) CONDITIONING
Condition the fabric in the standard atmosphere 20C +/- 2C, 65% RH +/- 4% RH, for a
minimum of four (4) hours, before cutting and sewing the specimen or measuring the
garment.
5) TEST SPECIMEN
5.1
Fabric:
a)
b)
c)
d)
5.2
Fold the fabric along a Wale line. Do not fold along SELVEDGE.
Place the marking template on the fabric parallel to the wales and draw round.
Cut out the double thickness specimen accurately along the knitted wale lines and
cut at right angles to these to produce a bag square.
Note: The second cuts are not necessarily parallel to the knitted courses.
Sew the two pieces of fabric together to form an open-ended bag in the following
order:- Sew together each side seam in turn. Sew together along one horizontal edge.
Overlock the last horizontal edge singly in one continuous action to form the bag.
Do NOT turn bag inside out.
Garment:
a)
Test the garment in its finished state.
b)
Record whether any spirality is present in the garment prior to washing.
c)
Measure original length and width dimensions.
Note: It is recommended that garments that already exhibit Spirality are not tested
because deceptive results will be produced.
6) WASHING/ DRYING
Carry out washing/ drying procedure as agreed or specified in BS EN ISO 6330:2001
Note: If the specimen is to be tumble-dried a load of 2 kg should be used for all specimens.
7) MEASUREMENT
a)
b)
After conditioning, lay the specimen on a flat smooth surface so that the natural fold
in the washed specimen is flat and free from wrinkles.
Measure the distance D to the nearest 1 mm from the natural dried fold of the
fabric square to the inner edge of the seam (see Fig 1.) Repeat on the other edge by
gently lifting back the opposite edge to reveal the seam.
On garments these measurements are made at the bottom of hem.
c)
Measure the length and width dimensions in order to determine the dimensional
change.
8) ASSESSMENT
8.1
Determine the % Spirality for both sides by using the calculation below.
8.2
Calculate the % Spirality

i.e.
D x 100
L
Where
L =
or =
8.3
Length of test specimen (fabric)

Underarm to hem (garment)
)
) After washing
Determine the average of both sides and quote this figure as the overall % spirality.

P6
December 2004
POLAR FLEECE ASSESSMENT

1)
PURPOSE
To assess the resistance of a knitted polar fleece to pilling or change in surface appearance.
2)
APPARATUS
a)
b)
c)
d)
Wascator Washing Machine

Drying Racks
Viewing cabinet from which external light is excluded
Loading fabric
3)
TEST METHOD
3.1
Wash the fabric/garment (in accordance with the Care Label Instructions ). Retain some
original fabric for final comparison. Dry load made up to 2kg with make weights.
3.2
Dry flat on plastic mesh trays.
3.3
Condition the sample for a minimum of 16 hours at 65% +/- 4% relative humidity and at a
temperature of 20C +/- 2C
4)
SAMPLE DISPLAY AND GRADING
4.1
Mount the tested specimen with piece of the untested fabric.

4.2
Grade the sample in the viewing cabinet, rate the sample according to the following
table of assessment:
Grade
Description Method
5
4
3
2
1
No visual change
Slight surface fuzzing
Moderate surface change/matting or isolated pills
Significant surface change and/ or matting
Distinct surface change and/or matting
(Half grades may be given)

5)
REPORT
5.1
The washing process
5.2
The average grade from two assessors to the nearest half grade.

P7
December 2004
APPEARANCE ASSESSMENT COATED FABRICS AFTER WIRA STEAM

This test is based on BS 4323:1979 (1995).
No measurements are required.
Test Specimen should be graded and assessed to the following parameters:
RATING
ASSESSMENT
Satisfactory No Visible change
Slight fogging, whitening of surface
Visible shade change, moderate fogging/ whitening
Severe shade change, moderate fogging/ whitening, plasticiser

migration
Very marked shade change, moderate fogging/ whitening, marked

plasticiser migration.

P8
December 2004
ASSESSMENT OF CHENILLE PILE LOSS

1)
PURPOSE:
To assess the potential pile loss from chenille fabrics & garments.
2)
APPARATUS:
2.1
2.2
2.3
2.4
2.5
2.6
2.7
2.8
Wascator FOM
Tumble dryer
Balance accurate to two decimal places
Polyester Make-weights
ECE Reference detergent
Sodium Perborate
Drying Racks
Martindale abrasion machine conforming to BSEN150 12947-1 modified in accordance
with BSENISO 12945-2:2001 (EMPA method) total holder mass 15.5g.
4)
CONDITIONING AND TESTING ATMOSPHERE

65% +/- 4% Relative Humidity: 20C +/- 2C
5)
TEST PROCEDURE
5.1
5.2
5.3
5.4
5.5
5.6
5.7
5.8
5.9
5.10
Condition the garment for a minimum of 16 hours in the conditioned atmosphere

Weigh the garment and record as weight before wash (A)
Wash garment using BSENISO 6330:2001 5A @ 40C programme, 5kg load (see note i)
Flat dry
Condition for minimum of 16hours (see note ii)
Weigh garment and record as weight after flat dry (B)
Wet out garment and tumble dry for 90 minutes (hot) (see note iii)
Condition for minimum of 16 hours
Weigh garment and record as weight after tumble-drying
Observe the change in appearance of the fabric and record any changes and the appearance
of any pills formed.
Note: (i)
(ii)
(iii)
Only one garment is washed and dried

Garment must be completely dry before conditioning
Periodically examine filters and remove fluff
5.11
Modify the cycling pattern of the Martindale machine by moving the drive posts to the
alternate (EMPA) positions. Place 1mm thick natural rubber on the base plated, weight the
rubber and clamp the rubbing medium in place.
5.12
Prepare two unwashed specimens and two washed specimens in accordance with clause 5.3
instructions and place the specimens in the modified holders (without the additional weight).
5.13
Set the modified Martindale to run for 125 cycles. Remove the specimen and observe/
record and formation of pills nothing particularly whether they are small (1-2mm) or large
and frequency.
5.14
Repeat the cycling in steps by 375, 500 and a 1000 to give cycle assessments st 125, 500,
1000 and 2000 cycles observing and recording the size and number of pills formed.
NOTE: IF THE PILLS AT EACH STAGE ARE LARGE AND LOOSELY ATTACHED TO THE
FABRIC SPECIMEN, REMOVE THE PILLS AND PLACE THEM IN A SEALED POLYTHENE
BAG MARKED WITH THE SPECIMEN IDENTITY AND STATUS (WASHED/ UNWASHED)
5.15
Mount the specimens on cards together with any removed pills
5.16
Grade the degree of pilling on the final specimen (2000 cycles), under oblique lighting using
the pilliscope, in accordance with BS EN ISO 12945-1

P23
December 2004
GARMENT DURABILITY ASSESSMENT

Attach a strip of Multifibre to the garment.
Place the Garment / Test specimen) into the wascator - with no added make-weights.
Select the appropriate programme and add IEC & Sodium Perborate in a pre-dissolved liquor to the
washing machine, and run machine for 3 care label wash cycles. See BS EN ISO 6330:2001 for
detergent amounts.
Dry according to the Care Label.
Compare to an un-laundered Garment and assess where relevant to the following parameters:
ASSESSMENT
A
C
D
E
F
G
H
Colour change/ loss using Grey Scale

assessment (BS EN 20105-A02:1995)
Cross staining ie, colour transfer onto
component parts using Grey Scale
assessment
(BS EN 20105-A03:1995)
Cross staining to multi fibre stripe using
Grey Scale assessment (BS EN 20105A03:1995)
Fraying of fabrics and trims
Detachment of fastenings and trims
Spirality/ twisting of seam. Calculate
spirality using IHTM002
Grinning/ opening of seams. Measure
seam opening
Pilling or fuzzing of surface fibres.
Assess degree of pilling/ fuzzing using
BS EN ISO 12945-1:2001 grades.
Pile loss or flattening of pile * Assess for Flattening and Pile Loss
J
K
L
* Assess colour change using Grey

Scales.
Corrosion/ damage to trims (including
chipping/ scratching of coatings)
Delamination of fused components
Free running of zip fastening. Assess
free running in both directions. Open
and close open-ended zip fasteners.
Differential shrinkage of components/
parts. Assess for distorting, wrinkling or
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
4 or better
Less than 4
4-5 or better
Less than 4-5
3-4 or better
Less than 3-4
Not Frayed
Frayed
Not Detached
Detached
5% or less
More than 5%
4mm or less
More than 4mm
4 or better
Less than 4
No visible flattening or pile

loss
4 or better
Significant evidence of
flattening or pile loss
Less than 4
No delamination
Some corrosion/ damage

noted
Some delamination noted.
Runs freely in both

directions.
Does not run freely in

both directions.
No permanent change (s)

observed
Permanent changes
observed
No Corrosion/ Damage
twisting of components and/ or

puckering of seams
N
Unraveling/ breaks in stitching
Wadding has moved within casing(outer

and lining) and/or migrated through
casing
Other changes observed
No unraveling/ breaks
observed
Unraveling/ breaks
observed
No movement or migration
observed.
Movement/ Migration
observed.
No change observed
Changes observed
(quote).

P28
December 2004
FIBRE SHEDDING
1)
PURPOSE
1.1
This test is intended to provide to assess the amount of fibre removed under specific
conditions of test.
2)
PRINCIPAL
2.1
Applicable to fabric with pile longer than 3mm, whereby loose fibre is removed using
pressure sensitive tape.
3)
APPARATUS
3.1
Pressure sensitive tape, Ref 3M.853.25mm wide (See note 1)
3.2
Balance accurate to 0.1g
3.3
1kg weight.
4)
TEST SAMPLES
4.1
Three specimens, 80mm x 130mm with the longer length parallel to the lay of the
pile.
5)
TEST PROCEDURE
5.1
Condition the specimens for a minimum of four hours - 65% +/- 4% Relative Humidity:
20C +/- 2C
5.2
Cut out three specimens and carefully remove loose fibre/ tufts from the cut edges.
5.3
Cut a 150mm strip of pressure sensitive tape and weigh it to two decimal places and record
this as A.
5.4
Apply the tape to the pile surface centrally along the specimen and leave for 1 minute under
a load of 1.0kg.
5.5
After one minute remove the weight and pull the tape off against the lay of the pile
5.6
Weigh the tape plus fibre and record as B.
5.7
Calculate the weight of fibre removed as B-A.
5.8
Calculate the % of fibre lost.
5.9
Mount the tape onto white or black card according to the colour of the pile and assess the
amount of fibre stuck to the tape. (For dark coloured fabrics, use white card and vice-versa).
6)
REPORT
6.1
The percentage (%) of fibre removed
6.2
The level of fibre shedding:

None
Slight
Moderate
Severe
Grade 5
Grade 4
Grade 3
Grade 2
Note 1
Pressure Sensitive tape is available from:
BDK Industrial Products
Levington Park
Bridge Road
Levington
Suffolk
IP10 OJE
Tel:
Fax:
0143 765 9059

0143 765 9104

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GARMENT PERFORMANCE STANDARDS

WOVEN TROUSERS, SHORTS AND JACKETS

SKIRTS, DRESSES & BLOUSES

JERSEYWEAR FLEECE & LOOPBACK

SWIMWEAR, BEACHWEAR AND BEACH TOWELS

SUEDE & LEATHER GARMENTS

LININGS WOVEN AND KNITTED (INCLUDING POCKETS)

PVC, PU, SUEDE EFFECT COATED FABRIC GARMENTS

FAKE FUR FABRICS & FABRIC TRIMS

METAL/PLASTIC TRIMS AND FASTENERS AND BELTS

ADDITIONAL MANDATORY TESTING FOR BABY/TODDLER

PLEASE NOTE FOR ALL SPECS

Updated: September 2010

CARE LABELLING GUIDE

Please print care symbols on

General Information which MUST be listed on the test report is as

Updated: September 2010

FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS

Trial order of 500 pieces or less (unless otherwise specified)

Garment Care Label Assessment

Security of Attachment Trims

Updated: September 2010

Non Grippable - Durawash

Baby/ Toddler (up to 6 years) 90N

FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS

Dimensional Stability to Washing.

Single Fibre No tolerance

Dimensional Stability to Wira Steam

Accelerator Pile Loss

Tear Strength - Elmendorf

20,000 cycles to end point

Baby/ Toddler (up to 6 years) 90N

Non Grippable - Durawash

BS EN ISO 105 DO1:2010

BS EN ISO 105 EO1:1996

BS EN ISO 105 B02:1999

Panel Durability Embellishments

In House Method P23

Updated: September 2010

FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS

Dimensional Stability to Washing.

Dimensional Stability to Commercial Dry

Tear Strength - Elmendorf

Security of Attachment Trims

Non Grippable - Durawash

Fabric weight = or <150GSM 5.5kg min

Baby/ Toddler (up to 6 years) 90N

Updated: September 2010

BS EN ISO 105 EO1:1996

In House Method P23

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Dimensional Stability to Washing.

Dimensional Stability to Commercial Dry

Spray Test Shower

10kg. Minimum warp & weft SO 6mm

Maximum 6 fibres after 6,000 cycles

Security of Attachment Trims

Garment Durability Assessment

Grade 4 Before Cleansing

Baby/ Toddler (up to 6 years) 90N

Non Grippable - Durawash

BS EN ISO 105 EO1:1996

In House Method P23

FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS