Wool Industry of Bikaner

AFTERSCHOOOL CENTRE FOR SOCIAL ENTREPRENEURSHIP
A REPORT ON
WOOL INDUSTRY
OF BIKANER
by :
DR. T.K. JAIN
AFTERSCHO☺OL
centre for social entrepreneurship
sivakamu veterinary hospital road
bikaner 334001 rajasthan, india
FOR – PGPSE PARTICIPANTS
(PGPSE – open for all – free for all – to spread
social entrepreneurship)
mobile : 91+9414430763
www.afterschool.tk
afterschool@in.com

The purpose of this report is to hellp PGPSE participants in understanding report preparation
process for entrepreneurs / executives. It is not an ideal report, but just an outline so that they can
learn how to start. The purpose is to help them so that they can prepare better reports.
WOOL INDUSTRY IN INDIA
India’s name has always been synonymous with its Cotton Textile Industry. It is also having a
rich heritage of a thriving Woollen Industry way back from the era of Indian Royalty and Mugal
Emperors who have been patrons of Exquisite work of arts, from finely embroidered, breathtaking
jamavar shawls, to pure wool product, garments and carpets. We learned a lot from middle East and
also from other neighbouring countries. Artists learnt designs from Middle East and other regions.
Today we find a rich blends of designs – some from persian origin and some from Indian origin.
Today it is giving India a proud status for being a leader in carpet industry.
Traditionally, home run handlooms and skilled artisans have formed the basic backbone of
Textiles Industry in India. Manufacture of fine woollen textile products in India has been forte of
artisan skills of handloom weaver’s right from Kashmir in the North to various manufacturing
centers in Rajasthan, Punjab, Uttar Pradesh for centuries. Various kinds of animal hair obtained
from hilly terrain were processed and used to make fine products like shawls, carpets, rugs etc.
Sheep Rearing and wool production
The government has theplans to increase domestic production of raw wool by about one and half
times of the present level, i.e., reach an annual production level of around 75 to 76 million kg. The
productivity per sheep would be increased to about 1.5 kg. per sheep per year as against 0.8 kg. per
sheep per year, at present. By the end of the Eleventh Five Year Plan period, the export of wool and
woollen goods, including hand made carpets is targeted at Rs.10,000 crore as against Rs.5,600 crore
at present. Further employment generation in wool and allied industries would be of the order of 60
lakh as against 27 – 28 lakh at present. In the Technology Mission, while the focus would be on the
best carpet grade woolproducing sheep namely, Magra, Chokla, Nalli, and Bikaneri (Bhiwari),
and projects will be sanctioned in areas where these varieties of sheep are numerous, projects for the
sheep not producing this grade of wool would continue to be assisted.
During the British regime in second half of the 17th century, large amounts of cotton goods were
exported regularly from India. Soon the modern structure of mechanized Manufacturing of
Cotton Textile Industry was followed by the Woollen Textile Industry consecutively.
However, establishment of mechanized mill in Woollen Sector was relatively late and perhaps
the first mill was ‘Lallmli’ of British India Corporation set up in Kanpur. The modern industry
followed growth in centers like Thane, Mumbai, Jamnagar, Vadodara in West and Dhariwal,
Amritsar, Panipat, Ludhiana in the North.
In the early stage of development, production was confined for coarse to medium qualities
mostly for the requirement of defense department. Requirement for fine variety of wool and worsted
fabrics were met through imports chiefly from U.K.

Post independence, economics policies led to rapid growth of woollen textile manufacture in the
organized sector and mushrooming of small to medium sized units all over India producing all kinds
of wool products, knitwear, hosiery and woolen blazer fabrics followed by blankets.
The middle of 20th century, eventually saw imports being virtually stopped and domestic
production keeping pace with local demand followed by product innovation and instroduction of
latest technology for processing of greasy wool from Australia to finished products.
Today in this new century the woollen sector of the Indian Textile Indutry has many big brands
names on its horizon. The woollen industry deserves a special mention for creating the concept of
brand marketing on the national scale in the textile field.
The Wool and Woolen Textiles Industry is a rural based, export oriented industry in which the
organized sector, the decentralized sector, and the rural sector complement each other. The industry
provides employment to approximately 27 lakh work force in a wide spectrum of wool related
activities. The country is the seventh largest producer of wool and contributes 1.8% to total world
production. The production of indigenous raw wool in 200708 was 45 mn kg. of the total
production of raw wool, 5% is apparel grade, 85% carpet grade, and 10% coarse grade. Since the
domestic produce is not adequate, the industry is dependent on imported raw material. Wool is the
only natural fibre in which the country is deficient.
A small quantity of specialty fibre is obtained from Pashmina goats and Angora rabbits. There
are 958 woolen units in the country, the majority of which are in the small scale sector. During the
XIth Five Year Plan period, the Government is implementing the following Schemes:
(i) Integrated Wool Improvement & Development Programme (IWIDP),
(ii) Quality Processing of Wool and
(iii) Social Security Scheme.
The Schemes are being administered in the major wool producing States by the Central Wool
Development Board (CWDB), Jodhpur, through respective State Government Organizations /
NGOs, Societies etc.
The Woollen Industry in India broadly falls under two sectors
i) Organized Sector:
a) Composite Mills
b) Combing Units
c) Worsted and Nonworsted Spinning Units
d) Machine made Carpetmanufacturing Units
ii) Decentralized Sector:
a) Hosiery and Knitting
b) Powerloom
c) Handknotted Carpets, Druggets and Namdahs
d) Independent Dyeing and Processing Houses
The indigenous production of fine quality wool required by the organized mills and the
decentralized hosiery sector is very limited; the country depends largely on import, Australia being
the major supplier. The NewZealand wool, rich in luster is being imported mainly for carpet sector
for blending it with indigenous wool. Similarly, for the shoddy sector, import of premutilated
woollen/synthetic rags is also allowed under OGL.
Raw Material Table 1.1
YEAR QUANTITY(In Million Kg.)

20042005 44.60
20052006 44.90
20062007 45.20
20072008 45.00
(Source: Ministry of Agriculture, Department of Animal Husbandry)
Indigenous wool (Chokhla Wool) is mostly suitable only for carpet manufacturing and
Credit goes to Mr K.C. Bothra, Mr. Tawari and Mr. Sethia, who started use of Chokhla wool
for the purpose of carpet making and tried to popularise it. However, its production has
remained stagnant at around 5055 million kg., with no improvement in productivity and
quality. Inspite of continuous efforts, there has been no success in developing good quality
apparel grade wool indigenously. Therefore, instead of wasting further effort and resources
in that direction, concerted efforts would be made during the Eleventh Five Year Plan to
concentrate on the development of carpet grade wool, with special emphasis on the
improvement of the quality and yield through cross breeding.
Targets for consumption of fibre and production of woollen items during the Eleventh Five
Year Plan Table 1.2
S Assumed
Terminal
l Achievements Growth Rate
year of the
. 200405 during
Eleventh Plan
N Items Unit (Actual) Eleventh Plan
(201112)
o ( percent)
1 Apparel Grade Raw Wool
Mn.kg 47.00 10 75.69
. (Clean Consumption)
2 Carpet grade raw wool 55.00
Mn.kg 18.75 129.87
. (consumption)
3
Wool Tops Mn.kg 29.00 4 35.28
.
4
Worsted Yarn Mn.kg 45.00 5 57.43
.
5
Worsted/Woollen fabrics Mn.mtrs 66.00 20 164.23
.
6
Woollen Yarn Mn.kg 34.00 3 39.41
.
7 Woollen/Synthetic/Cotton
Mn.kg 105.69 5 135.00
. rags
8
Shoddy Yarn Mn.kg 26.00 3 30.14
.
9
Shoddy Fabrics Mn.mtrs 18.00 3 20.86
.
1 Shoddy/Woollen blankets Mn.pcs 12.00 3 13.92
0
.
1
RMG
1 (Knitwear/wovenwear and Mn.kg 13.00 25 39.67
Goods)
.
1
2 Hand Made Carpets Mn.sq.mtrs 08.00 5 10.21
.
1
3 Machine Made Carpets Mn.sq.mtrs 00.50 2 0.552
.
The above target can be achieved by modernization
IMPORT OF RAW WOOL & RAGS:
The figures of import of Raw Wool and Rags for the last five years are at Table 1.3 and 1.4.
Table 1.3
Raw Wool(Merino/New ZealandGreasy/
Scoured)

YEAR QUANTITY(In Million Kg.)
20042005 84.76
20052006 90.18
20062007 99.62
20072008 93.08
20082009 54.84
(upto Dec. 08)
(Source: Ministry of Agriculture/CWDB)Table 1.4
Rags (Woolen/Synthetic) table 1.4
Year Quantity in million kg
20032004 82.81
20042005 73.61
20052006 126.82
20062007 158.52
20072008 180.65
20082009 66.82
(upto Dec. 08)
(Source: Statistics Published by DGCI&S, Calcutta)
The details of woollen industry installed capacity as on 31.10.2007are at Table 1.5.
Table 1.5
i) a) Wool Combing 30 Mn. Kg.
b) Synthetic Fibre Combing 3.57 Mn. Kg.
ii) Worsted Spindles (No.) 6.04 Lakh Nos.
iii) NonWorsted Spindles (No.) 4.37 Lakh Nos.
iv) a) MachineMade 0.5 Mn. sq. mtr.
b) Handmade Carpet Sector 9.0 Mn. sq. mtr
v) Powerlooms 7228
The production details of woollen items are at Table 1.6
Table 1.6
(Quantity in millions)
2003 2004 2005 2006
Item Unit 20072008
2004 2005 2006 2007
Worsted Mn.
44.00 44.00 45.00 45.33 45.67
Yarn (Kgs)
Woollen Mn.
34.00 34.00 34.00 34.34 34.68
Yarn (Kgs)
Mn.
Wool Tops 28.00 28.00 29.00 29.51 30.02
(Kgs)
Fabric
Mn.
(Woollen/ 66.00 66.00 66.00 66.00 66.00
(Mtrs.)
Worsted)
Shoddy Mn.
24.00 25.00 26.00 26.00 26.00
Yarn (Kgs)
Blankets
Mn.
(Shoddy/wo 11.00 11.00 12.00 12.00 12.00
(Pcs)
ollen)
Shoddy Mn.
17.00 17.50 18.00 18.00 18.00
Fabric (Mtrs.)
RMG
(Knitwear/W Mn.
13.00 13.00 14.00 14.00 14.00
oven wear (Kgs.)
and goods)
Hand
Mn.
Knotted 08.00 08.00 08.00 08.17 08.34
(Sq.Mt)
Carpets
Machine
Mn.
made 00.50 00.50 00.50 00.50 00.50
(Sq.Mt)
Carpets
(Source: Indian Woollen Mills Federation, Mumbai)
Exports of woollen carpet and non-carpet items Table 1.7

Rs. crore
Item 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005
02 03 04 05 06
Woollen Yarn, Fabrics, Madeups * 249 246.43 267.81 313.56 371.21
Readymade Garments 1129.76 1057.09 1285.26 1560.50 1727.06

Carpets 2152.69 2293.79 2617.79 2678.41 2870.75
Total 3531.45 3597.31 4170.86 4551.91 4969.02
Note: * Products made with blend of manmade fibre and 100 percent acrylic not included.
Source: Foreign Trade Statistics of India, DGCI&S, Kolkatta.
Central Wool Development Board, Jodhpur & its plans:
The Central Wool Development Board (CWDB), Jodhpur was constituted by the Government of
India in 1987. The Board is supported through grantsinaid, for promoting growth and development
of wool and woolens, and it pursues its objectives through various activities market intelligence,
improvement of wool and woolens, price stabilization, and quality control.
In the Xth Plan, the Board is implementing ‘Integrated Wool Improvement Programme (IWIP)’
for growth and development of wool and woolens in the country. There are two main components of
the Programme
(I) Improvement of Wool Fibre and
(II) Quality Processing of wool.
The component “Improvement of Wool Fibre’ has been taken up for improving the quality and
quantity of sheep wool and increasing the production of specialty wool from Pashmina goats and
Angora rabbits. The component ‘Quality Processing of Wool’ involves setting up of Common
Facility Centres for Carpet Finishing and Shawl Processing, Technical Consultancy Services,
Human Resource Development and Research and Development etc. The Planning Commission and
Ministry of Textiles have allocated Rs. 35 cr. for implementation of Integrated Wool Improvement
Programme during the Xth Plan period. The Board has utilized Rs. 23.50 cr. upto December, 2005.
During 200506, the Government has approved an Annual Plan outlay of Rs. 590 .00 lakhs of
the Board. (Plan Rs. 500 lakhs and NonPlan Rs. 90 Lakhs).
India now has an estimated sheep population of more than 45 million, producing around 40
million kilograms of raw wool. It is the sixth largest sheep rearing country possessing
approximately 4.1 per cent of the world’s sheep population and producing about 1.1 per cent of the
world’s wool. The Indian wools are generally known for their resilience as carpet wools. Until
recently the wools was mostly used for producing coarse varieties of woolen goods like blankets. In
recent times efforts were made both in Rajasthan and the Kashmir valley for improvement of the
quality of wool by selective cross breeding. Around 20 per cent of the wool is now being used for
producing apparel goods.
8.1 The integrated development and growth of the Wool and Woollen sector can be achieved
through the Mission approach i.e. the Technology Mission on Wool (TMW) on lines similar
to the Technology Mission on Cotton (TMC), consisting of 4 Mini Missions:
• MiniMissionI Research and Development of a few chosen coarse wool (i.e. carpet grade
wool) fibre breeds only.
Implementing Agency : Ministry of Textiles, through Central wool
Development Board, Jodhpur.
Schemes Requirement of funds
A. Continuation of existing 10th Plan Schemes.
Improvement of Wool Fibre.
a) Setting up of Extention Centres Rs.5 crore
b) Setting up of Common Facility Centres Rs.6 crore
c) Health care @Rs.18 per sheep per annum Rs.18 crore
d) Breed improvement Rs.1 crore
Nutritional supplementation which was there in the 10th Plan has not been included.
Marketing assistance, product development
and research and training Rs.10 crore
B. New Schemes during the 11th Plan
Sheep Insurance Scheme Rs.10 crore
@Rs.25 premium per sheep for 40 lakh sheep expected to be covered during the 11th Plan)
Total Rs.50 crore
• MiniMissionII Procurement of coarse wool under Minimum Support Price (MSP)
operations by Central Government agencies, to instill confidence in the sheep breeders/wool
growers. This will ensure remunerative returns and, thereby increase yield.
• Implementing Agency : Central Government Agency preferably Cotton Corporation
of India, to be monitored by the Textiles Commissioner.
A Revolving Fund to be set up to be utilised for the Rs.10 crore
procurement of raw wool, and its sale.
For Market support operations to be undertaken by CCI Rs.5 crore
in order to stabilise wool prices
Total Rs.15 crore
• MiniMissionIII Development of the decentralised woollen textile industry and the
development of the carpet industry.
• Implementing Agency: Ministry of Textiles through Wool Research Association, Thane,
Mumbai; Indian Institute of Carpet Technology, Bhadohi, UP; and the Woolmark Company,
Delhi under the aegis of the Textiles Commissioner.
Setting up Scouring Plants, Rs.20 crore
Shearing Centres and Rs.20 crore
Pre loom facilities.
Including appropriate R&D support as well as setting up of finishing plants for shawls etc.
alongwith industry support.
Technology Upgradation of spinning Rs.75 crore
weaving and processing in the decentralised sector
Total Rs.115 crore
MiniMissionIV Supplementing training facilities (HRD) by devising specific curricula and
training infrastructure through the involvement of selected institutes, the Wool Research
Association and the Indian Institute of Carpet Technology, Bhadohi, UP for the semi skilled and
skilled work force, supervisory categories and technical managers.
Implementing Agency : Ministry of Textiles through WRA, Thane, Mumbai, Indian Institute
of Carpet Technology, Bhadohi, UP, selected academic institutions like Guru Nanak Dev University,
Amritsar, VJTI Mumbai, Textiles Engineering Institute, DKT’s Society, Ichalkaranji, Maharashtra,
under the aegis of Textiles Commissioner and the Central Wool Development Board.
Approximately Rs.10 crore may be required for funding courses in Wool Research Association
and other Institutes.
Future of Woollen Industry:
The future of woolen industry is bright in India and with the development in technology and
adoption of new machines by big houses gives an estimation of high turnover of profits. The raw
wool import is increasing at high speed because we are not able to generate raw wool in our country
but if efforts will be done we will be able to produce much of raw wool in India itself. As we can
see from the past, present and estimated trends of woolen industry in exports we are on a
progressive rate and to maintain that trend we need to work much harder.
The decentralized woollen industry located in various clusters such as Amritsar, Ludhiana,
Bikaner & Panipat have some of the problems relating to Fiscal Duty structure and Exim Policy and
also about improvement in quality & growth of various forums & meetings held with individual
groups from time to time. The biggest drawback in case of Disorganized Woollen Industry is that
unlike the organized sector, the decentralized Woollen sector doesn’t have anyone body that can
represent its different segment and facets. There is a plethora of associations and bodies with
insufficient interaction between them. Initiatives taken in concert with one segment do not spread to
the others. It is also one of the main reasons that different associations that have emerged in
decentralized sector are looking at their own interest rather than working collectively. This is a very
big problem and steps are being taken by people to work collectively yet the rate is slow but some
day this problem will also be solved because every problem has its solution.
Wool Insutry in Bikaner
In Bikaner, wool industry was earlier limited only to cattle rearing. However, some
entrepreneurs saw an opporutnity. They could sense that there is a scope for a great deal of work in
this industry. Raw wool used to be exported from Bikaner to regions like Bhadohi (Western UP),
Jaipur, and other places. Entrepreneurs like Mr. Kishan Chand Bothra, Mr. Tawri, and Mr. Sethia
took the lead and started wool units – where cards were set up for production of wool thread. These
cards started converting raw wool to woollen yarn. It was in 1958 that Bikaner Woollen Mills was
started by Mr. Kishan Chand Bothra. Mr Bothra later started BWM International to export carpets
He started woollen yarn making unit in Bikaner and carpet development centre in Bikaner and in
Bhadohi (UP). Mr. Tawari and Mr. Sethia also started their businesses at around the same time. Mr.
Tawari started Tawari Woollen Mills. Mr. Sethia started Bikaner Woollen Press. Thus a new era was
started in the wool industry of Bikaner. Soon a number of entrepreneurs saw business opportunity in
this industry. Soon we had a massive growth of the cards. Today we have more than 200 cards in
Bikaner.
90% wool from Bikaner is absorbed in Bhadohi (Western UP) and nearby areas. Thus huge
amount of wool is transported from Bikaner to Bhadohi. We need to develop carpet development
centres in Bikaner. Before independence, the central Jail in Bikaner used to produce world class
carpets. Those carpets used to be exported. Further, the prisoners used to find a source of
employment when they used to be released. The same should be revived. The workers in wool
industry need to be provided some additional support from the governement. Wool industry of
Bikaner needs better infrastructure facilities, the introduction of the Technology Mission on Wool
(TMW), and the creation on image building and market development using design consultants from
India and overseas, providing capital subsidy of 20 percent of the cost of machinery installed for a
SSI unit, undertaking modernization under TUFS, continuing TUFS in general, attracting large FDI
by simplifying the multilayered tax structure and moving to a single goods and service tax (GST)
system, labour reforms. The entrepreneurs in wool industry need support from the government.
There is also a need to develop an apex research and training institute for woollen product
technology. There is a need to train workers in carpet weaving and in wool product development.
With all these initiatives, wool industry will definitely
Survey of wool workers :
I carried out a massive survey of all the wool workers in Bikaner through Bikaner Vikas Samiti
and Institute of Development Studies (the data were later published by Institute of Development
studies Jaipur) which revealed that there was a need of better health care facilities. On our
suggestion, the local entrepreneurs came forward and set up a health care centre and a child care
centre for wool workers in Bikaner Wool Market (Un Mandi) and thus a new era was started. The
Hunger Project also came forward and it also gave support to this initiative. NGOs like Vikas Bal
Nikatan Samiti, Ajit Foundation, and other NGOs tried to help in this process. However, there is a
need of initiatives from government for a better set up for health care, training, and support to the
workers in wool industry. When about 50000 persons are directly or indirectly dependent on wool
industry, there is a need for initiatives from government.
References :
Data from the various websites and various publications of Ministry of Labour, Ministry of
Textiles and other ministries.

Wool Industry of Bikaner

Caricato da

Informazioni sul documento

Copyright

Formati disponibili

Condividi questo documento

Condividi o incorpora il documento

Opzioni di condivisione

Hai trovato utile questo documento?

Questo contenuto è inappropriato?

Copyright:

Formati disponibili

Wool Industry of Bikaner

Caricato da

Copyright:

Formati disponibili

AFTERSCHOOOL CENTRE FOR SOCIAL ENTREPRENEURSHIP

YEAR QUANTITY(In Million Kg.)

Exports of woollen carpet and non-carpet items Table 1.7

Readymade Garments 1129.76 1057.09 1285.26 1560.50 1727.06

Potrebbero piacerti anche