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SEW MAGAZINE

WIN 1,200 OF PRIZES l ELNA SEWING MACHINE!

50%
OFF
PATTERNS!
See p31

FEBRUARY 2014

Home&Style
Dressmaking
MadeEASY
With your BONUS patterns

ISSUE 56

Stitch for you!

GREAT
NO-PATTERN
MAKE!

OUR

PAPER-CUT STYLE

PATCHWORK
PROMISE
ADVICEQUILTS
PRODUCTS

lt

Liberty Beginners Qui

Make it, share it


EMBROIDERED
TOKENS

5.99

Stitch a
Sewing
Bee dress
Inside!
Quick
Home
Updates

EASY
APPLIQU

Plus...

Alterations for all skill


levels l Dressmaking advice l Interior
trends l Top sewing machine picks
l

Feb 2014 Issue 56 5.99

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sew

1 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road,


Colchester, Essex,
CO2 8JY
Editor
Lorraine Luximon
lorraine.luximon@aceville.co.uk

Deputy Editor
Steph Durrant
stephanie.durrant@aceville.co.uk
Editorial Assistant
Rosie Savage
rosie.savage@aceville.co.uk
Group Editor
Lynn Martin
01206 505980
Publishing Director
Helen Tudor
Advertising Manager
Jo Scott
jo.scott@aceville.co.uk
01206 506250
Advertisement Sales
Clare Dance
clare.dance@aceville.co.uk
01206 505495
Sarah Collins, Jackie Weddell,
Jo Bluck
Art Director
Phil Dunham
Designers
Rick Allen, Chris Ashworth,
James Tuthill
Ad Production
Clare Brasier
Photography
CliQQ Photography www.cliqq.co.uk
Accounts
Denise Bubb
01206 505958
Subscription Enquiries/
Back Issues
0844 826 7378
Website Enquiries
webmaster@crafts-beautiful.com
Newstrade Sales
Marketforce 0203 148 3300
Marketing Manager
Andrea Turner
Promotions
Emma Ham
emma.ham@aceville.co.uk
Subscriptions Executive
Maria Doyle
maria.doyle@aceville.co.uk
Published By
Aceville Publications Ltd 2014
21-23 Phoenix Court,
Hawkins Road, Colchester,
Essex CO2 8JY
Aceville Publications Ltd
All projects from this issue and the
FREE online patterns are for personal
home use only and cannot be sold or
used for commercial purposes. All
patterns that are featured in Sew are
reproduced in good faith that they do
not infringe any copyright.
The publishers are not responsible for
any safety issues arising from any
items created from projects contained
within Sew magazine.

On the cover...
Garment:
Amy Butler

welcome
Welcome to our February issue, which
is filled with makes youll love to stitch,
whether for someone special or
yourself! If youre in the mood for
romance, our lavender-filled decs
will set hearts aflutter (p46),and in Home this month
we have an appliqu quilt to stitch from gorgeous
Liberty fabrics (p61), plus cosy heart pillows (p69)
to snuggle up with.
If you want to try dressmaking, we have a
limited edition dress pattern from the makers of
The Great British Sewing Bee (p15). Available to
download until 14th February, make it in a print of
your choice and wear it when
the weather warms up (or with Subscribe today!
a cardigan right now)! We also Check out our fantastic
have a gorgeous no-pattern subscription offer on page 72!
dress to stitch by the talented
Amy Butler on p32.
Our gift to you this month is
a fat quarter of our exclusive
Tilly fabric, plus bonus
project sheet. Dont
forget to show us what
Join the worlds busiest online
you make!
crafting community today! With

Lorraine

Lorraine Luximon, Editor

over 28,000 projects to inspire you,


plus more than 9,000 members to
meet, theres loads to discover. Join
for FREE at www.busymitts.com

Get in touch! Join us on Twitter @sewhq, follow


us on Pinterest pinterest.com/sewhq.
Like us on Facebook facebook.com/sewhq
or email us at editorial@sewmag.co.uk
with your comments and pictures.
Alternatively, call 01206 505420.

Your FREE
gift this month
is a 100% Tilly
fat quarter
plus bonus
project sheet.

We love!

Inspirational
cross stitch
ideas, p96

meetthe
sewteam

STEPH DURRANT,
Deputy Editor
"This month... I am loving
Corinne Bradds quilt
I adore Liberty prints! (p61)

ROSIE SAVAGE,
Editorial Assistant
"This month... I am
looking forward to
stitching a gardening
apron for my mum (p80).

meetour
experts

LAUREN GUTHRIE
Our columnist offers advice
on altering patterns to fit
your shape. See page 106.

Get online
All the templates for this
issue can be found on
our website plus video
demos, free projects and a friendly
forum www.sewmag.co.uk

ALISON SMITH MBE


Dressmaking guru Alison
Smith advises on making
alterations on p22.

sewmag.co.uk

February 2014

contents
In Every Issue

Living

66 Click & stitch

03 Welcome

Say hello to the Sew team.

06 The Hot List

Check out the best love-themed


websites and finds.

Four pages of the best news,


products, shows and events
for February.

74 Business bite

10 Dear Sew

106 The busy bee

Take a look at our latest reader


makes and find out how you can
win stitching goodies.

We chat to Sew Over Its very


own Lisa Comfort.
The Sewing Bees Lauren Guthrie
discusses altering patterns.

72 Subscriptions

92 Giveaways

94 March preview
Next month we have a FREE
Simplicity 1549 toy pattern for
every reader, from which you can
make a raccoon, fox, bunny, owl
and deer! We also have a
gorgeous skirt to make from The
Great British Sewing Bee, ideas
for the home, plus inspiration for
Mothers Day.

96 Cross stitch
Collect and keep our
inspirational messages and
Valentines Day motifs.

15 The Great British


Sewing Bee summer dress

Download your FREE The Great


British Sewing Bee summer dress
pattern. Make up in bright prints
for a knock-out look.

31 Reader offer
50% off all Simplicity patterns for
every reader.
*Just pay postage

Tilly fat quarter and


project sheet

Never miss an issue of Sew


subscribe today for exclusive
offers, gifts and more.
Enter today for your chance to
win prizes worth over 1,200!

Free Gift

50% off

Simplicity
patterns

Every reader gets a FREE fat


quarter of fabric and project
book, full of inspiration for
getting creative with your new,
pretty print.

Dressmaking

20 Pattern picks
We choose the best day
dress patterns.

22 Dressmaking SOS
Our experts answer your
questions on fitting and
alterations.

24 Dressmaking fabric
shopping
Think pretty with our favourite
pink fabric picks.

27 Custom made
Add lace to your look for an
elegant finish.

28 Laced in history
We explore the historic art
of lace making.

32 Drawstring dress
Create your own pattern with
this breezy frock.

36 Machine spotlight
We review the best overlocker
models on the market.

FREE

Cath Kidston
buttons when
you subscribe.
See p72

38 My sewing room
We talk to sewing and style
blogger, Ami Lowden, a.k.a The
Little Tailoress, about stitching
her own wardrobe.

97 Essentials
Get the practical information and
advice you need on all aspects
of needlework.

Subscribe to sew at www.sew

THIS MONTH!

FREE

Visit www.sewmag.co.uk

Tilly fat quarter and project sheet

FOR EXCLUSIVE CONTENT, DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS,


FREE TEMPLATES, PROJECTS, COMPETITIONS, OUR
FRIENDLY SEWING FORUM AND MORE

Be inspired by your bonus project book and


discover exciting ways to use your FREE, pretty
print. Make a clutch bag, plush toys, a cushion or
something of your own design. Everyone loves
beautiful fabric and we hope this one
gives you plenty of ideas for
future projects.

Follow us on Facebook
at www.facebook.com/sewhq,
@sewhq on Twitter or pinterest.com/sewhq

Fashion

Kids

Home

Gifts

Patchwork
PROMISE

44 Button jewellery

87 Yo yo bag

52 Home fabric shopping

41 Wedding ring pillow

Give your outfit a flirty,


feminine touch with this
button necklace.

Make a little girl smile with an


embellished tote.

Use cool monochrome in your


home for a contemporary aesthetic.

Make someones wedding


unique with a personal touch.

89 Baby stacking rings

54 Home trends

46 Valentine tokens

Let children learn and play with


these colourful toys.

Let your home exude style with a


grey and yellow colour palette.

Show your love with these


embroidered beauties.

56 Quilters corner
Get the latest patchwork and quilt
news and products.

61 Liberty quilt
Show some love with this gorgeous,
romantic throw.

64 Flower cushion
Explore a new craft technique
with our wool felt design.

67 Felt wreath
Add some colour to your home with
this funky wall hanging.

Coming
NEXT
MONTH...
Get your FREE Simplicity
1549 toy pattern

69 Heart pillows
Use pretty prints to create these
stylish accessories.

75 Make yourself at home


Reinvent your living space with our
selection of home update ideas.

80 Pocket apron
Make household tasks easy with
this practical, pretty pinny.

82 Vintage cushions
Add a sophisticated flourish to your
abode with these lovely pillows.

85 Cat plush
Experiment with your embroidery
skills to make this cute feline friend.

mag .co.uk or call 0844 826 7378

Cosy cushions
Handmade from France, these
scrumptious cushions are from
childrens brand Muusa, which means
cosy in Swedish. We adore the use of
tactile wool felt, leather, linen, and
pretty Liberty cotton prints.
Visit www.muusa.fr

Romantic ribbons
Give your handmade love tokens an extra-special touch
with Berisfords Natural Charms Romance ribbon
collection. Choose from five designs featuring sentiments
including All My Love and Under Your Spell in
contemporary red, cream, grey, and black. Priced from
70p per metre, visit www.berisfords-ribbons.co.uk
or call 01453 883581.

the hotlist
Whats new in the world
of stitching

Mid-century modern
Dare to be different with the Diva range of fabrics and
coordinating wallcoverings by Prestigious Textiles. Inspired
by the Pop Art movement and using iconic archive imagery, the
vibrant designs vary from distinctive Warhol-style faces to
tropical montages. All printed onto 100% cotton, theyre suitable
for home dcor and accessories. Priced 16.99 per metre, visit
www.prestigious.co.uk or call 01274 688448.

Pattern parade
Online sewing store Backstitch has launched a new downloadable sewing
pattern category where dressmakers can pick from a fantastic range of digital
patterns. Designs by popular brands including Oliver + S, Victory Patterns and
Made by Rae can be downloaded as PDFs in seconds meaning you can start
stitching straight away, plus you can print them out as many times as you like.
www.backstitch.co.uk
6

sewmag.co.uk

SEW
NEWS

Street style

GET
THE
LOOK!

REX

London street artist Malarky


has joined forces with organic
kidswear brand Boys&Girls to
create a limited edition range for
spring/summer 2014. The collection
has an urban beach theme and consists
of two long-sleeve raglan T-shirts (16),
a vest top with contrasting trim (12),
and a hooded sweat top (28) all
featuring eco-friendly prints.
www.boysandgirlsshop.com

fashion file:

Innovation station
The Sew team was very excited to be present at the
launch of Brothers brand-new ScanNCut
machine. The innovative machine cuts though
varying thicknesses of fabric and features a
speedy high resolution scanner, so you can
create your own appliqu designs. Ideal for
patchwork and quilting, there are also 600
ready-to-use designs including 100 quilt
patterns which can be selected
and edited on the LCD screen.
Available exclusively from
www.createandcraft.tv

OVER-SIZED COATS
Usually known for showing off her curves, here Kim
Kardashian works this winters hottest, or should we say
cosiest, cover-up trend the oversized coat. In a long
length with softly curving shoulders, its sure to see you
through the last of the big freeze. The reality star gets extra
style points by working it in a rich mustard shade too.
Burda pattern 7275 features two striking coat designs and
is only a level two in difficulty. Similar to Kims, Style A has
lapped seams and a broad, flowing collar to be sewn in
fulled fabrics. Available in sizes 10-24,
www.simplicitynewlook.com, 0161 480 8734.

French fancies
Do you love
our bonus cross stitch
motifs on page 96?
Dont forget that these,
plus a whole host of
charts, patterns and
project ideas are
available for FREE on
our website at
www.sewmag.co.uk

For more fantastic product


reviews, stitchy gossip and
to take a look behind the
scenes here at Sew HQ,
like us on Facebook at
www.facebook.com/
sewhq follow us on
Twitter @sewhq or visit
www.pinterest.com/sewhq

Transform your humble abode


into an elegant chteau with
the latest fabric collection
from Gtermann. French
Cottage is a delectable range
of 36 Toile de Jouy designs
consisting of numerous
coordinating prints to mix and
match. Priced from 19.95 per
metre. For stockists email
gutermann@stockist
enquiries.co.uk or call
01453 883581.

sewmag.co.uk

DAYbyDAY
Our rundown of the best workshops and events...

Creative Stitches &


Hobbycrafts

EvenCity, Manchester
6th - 8th February

As well as access to the latest supplies, ideas and


innovation in the crafting world, the Creative
Stitches & Hobbycrafts show has a plethora of
inspiring features on offer. Theres an extensive
programme of free workshops, demonstrations
and talks by experts including author and
previous Sew editor Laura Strutt. Visitors can
also view the winning entries for the Madeira
Embroidery Competition. Visit
www.stitchandhobby.co.uk for tickets.

Stitchtopia

Wyboston Lakes, Bedfordshire


17th - 20th February
Take a break at Stitchtopia, a five-day
festival which promises to be a craft-lovers
heaven. Delve into the world of stitching
and surround yourself with industry
experts including The Great British Sewing
Bees Stuart Hillard who will be running
patchwork and appliqu sessions. Set in
350 acres of rural landscape with
accommodation in the stylish Willows
Hotel, visit www.arenatravel.com
to find out more.

Starting out
If youve got a friend who wants to start sewing, but doesnt know
where to begin, then Seek It Out has come up with a great range
of kits to help. Aimed at beginners, the sets are designed by
Shropshire couple Frank Wagstaffe and Rosie Beswick and
contain everything you need. There are three designs to choose
from including a quilted knit pin wrap, a jewellery roll and a
sewing set, and each comes packaged in a reusable oilcloth bag.
www.seekitout.co.uk

Exercise book
If youre looking to improve
your dressmaking skills
then take a look at A
Fashion Sewers Notebook
by Colleen G Lea. Split into
nine chapters, the
downloadable notebook
guides you through simple
yet effective exercises
designed to help develop
your creative skills and
challenge your approach
to future sewing projects.
Priced 9.95, visit
www.fashionsewing
blog.com

The Corset

School of Sewing, Leicestershire


26th - 27th February
On this two-day workshop you will join
Alison Smith MBE to make an authentic
Victorian corset using an original pattern
from around 1860 using authentic fabrics
and including a waist stay and spiral
boning techniques. You can make the
basic corset or those with more
experience can choose an alternative
pattern. Book now at
www.schoolofsewing.co.uk

Knit & Stitch It


Five, Farnborough
28th February - 2nd March

WIN
TICKETS!
Turn to
page 92

sewmag.co.uk

Join the Souths largest craft weekend for


the Knit & Stitch It show. At the three-day
event, visitors will have access to all
the latest fabrics and stitching
tools, along with a first peek at the
new seasons product ranges.
Theres also a full programme
of workshops including make and
takes where you can meet
like-minded crafters and complete
a project to take home. Visit
www.knitandstitch-it.org.uk

Sort it out
Beads, buttons, needles and pins
rattling loose in your sewing box?
Get them organised with this set
of pretty floral storage tins from
Blott. Theyre not only practical,
but theyre pretty enough to
display too. Priced 7.50
per set of three,
www.blottshop.com

SEW
NEWS

3
Simply does it
Introducing Simple Sew Patterns,
an independent British pattern
company with a beautiful range of
easy-to-sew designs for all abilities.
There are seven styles to choose
from including dresses, skirts,
a blouse, and classic trousers,
all priced at just 7.50 from
www.simplesewpatterns.com.
Whats more, full email support is
provided, so if you get stuck or have
a question, the Simple Sew team
will be happy to help.

of the best...

HEART-SHAPED
HABBY

Sewing essentials for the one you love

Cath Kidston heart


pincushion, 8,
www.johnlewis.com

His n hers
Get sewing for your seor with
Colette Patterns new speciality
menswear and
unisex line, Walden.
Prepare for outdoor
adventures with
Albion, a duffle coat
with two variations:
a flannel-lined coat
and an unlined
jacket. Accessorise
with Cooper, a
versatile bag in
three styles and
dont miss Negroni, a retro shirt in
sizes XS to XXL. We love the new
lay-flat packaging, too!
www.coletterie.com

Heart pin wheel, 75p,


www.trixielixie.co.uk

DONT
MISS OUT!

Subscribe to Sew today


and receive a Cath
Kidston Button Factory
kit. See page 72.

Pucker up

Pack of six red heart buttons, 2.95,


www.dotcomgiftshop.com

Create a unique gift for your


Valentine this February 14th
with this fun Flaming Lips
Chocolate Box sewing pattern
from Fairyfox. Available as a
downloadable PDF, you can
stitch a lip-shaped box with four
(almost) good enough to eat
chocolates from felt and
trimmings. Priced 3.75,
www.etsy.com

sewmag.co.uk

dear

Check us out...
on Pinterest at
www.pinterest.com/sewhq
Chat with us...
on Facebook at
www.facebook.com/sewhq

Facebook profile
We asked you what youve
been making this month,
and this is what you told us
Ive been making memory
friends for little people and
their families to remember
those special first outfits.
Amanda Barker

Ive been making


felt brooches.
Debra Mackenzie

Get together
I wanted to share with you my latest
project, which is a sewing course for
my fabulous Womens Institute.
I started the group as a way to make
friends after moving to a new area.
Two years later we have produced a
like-minded, fun group of girls with
approximately 40 members. The
majority are young mums embracing the make do and mend
lifestyle. I have been sewing for over twenty years and it turned
out that a huge proportion of our members wanted to develop
their skills, so I organised a variety of sewing classes. We meet
in a local pub and are working on a variety of different projects.
Many members buy your magazine and Im excited to share a little
bit of what we are doing. This is a photo of my current art quilt.
Gemma White, via email
Your WI sounds like so much fun! Sewing is such a great
hobby to do as a group. Keep stitching!

Rose tinted
Here is some of my homemade
bunting. Ive been sewing for a
year now and love it! Im also just
about to start sewing lessons
which is very exciting! This is a
personalised new baby design for
a lucky little girl called Rosie. Ive
used a variety of pink prints,
decorated with flowers, buttons and pretty trim.
Bekki Tomkins, via email
This is beautiful, and we absolutely love the flower embellishments.
This make is a particular favourite of Editorial Assistant, Rosie!

Im stitching clothing sets


with hand-sewn appliqu.
Perfect for our Queensland,
Australian summer.
Obbie Dobbie

Whats new on Pinterest?


Ive been quilting!!
Wowsie Baldwin

10

sewmag.co.uk

Star Letter

Share your crafty makes


and stories with us to be
in with the chance of
winning a fantastic prize!

Get in touch...
on Twitter at
@sewhq

Check out our Valentines board for lots of inspiration! A


handmade present is often seen as more thoughtful than
shop-bought and you know your gift will be treasured for years.
If youre struggling to think what to make though, why not visit
our Pinterest board for ideas? From fabric roses to romantic cross
stitch messages, theres plenty to get your creative juices flowing.

SEW
YOU

Twitter feed
Your best tweets and
latest sewing projects
@sallybeemakes
@SewHQ I made
New Look 6202
for my daughters
birthday

Stitch idols

Catch up on
tweets from your
favourite crafters

Get tips
from
Gabrielle
on p78

Gabrielle
Blackman
@CushionCrisis
In my attempt at
multi-tasking
I have managed to
fail at all of my
tasks this morning... but I
am on the right train

Hear more
from Lisa
Comfort
on p74

Lisa Comfort
@sewoverit
Our shift kits
have apparently
run out at John
Lewis online!

Lauren Guthrie
@GuthrieGhani
Note to self...
staying up till
1am is a bad
idea on a
Read
week night Laurens
#addicted column on
p106
tosewing

Sweet memories

@trimmyg
@SewHQ Just
completed this
jacket for my
daughter, very
happy with
the result!

I thought you might like to see the


quilt I researched, designed and
made for my daughter Caity for her
18th birthday. I wanted her to
remember every year of her life,
just as I have, so each block
documents something special to her
in that year. I used photo printable
fabric for pictures I wanted to
include, and I scoured the internet
for other embellishments, such as
the Vegas badges from America. In
all, it took me seven months to
complete. She was speechless.
Lee-ann Brereton, via email
What a fantastic idea! It would be
lovely if she added to it every year
to commemorate special occasions.

@LauraCapesReed
@SewHQ I have a
sewing problem

Star Prize

@charlenedg
@SewHQ I just
finished this
tote bag

Win!

This month our


Star Letter winner will
receive a bumper Sew
goodie bag worth 50.
We also have stitchy
gifts worth 10 for the
runners up.

Jolly roger
I have been super busy the last
few months, making cushions
and various other accessories
for my daughters new
apartment, and I thought you
might like to see! I have also
made some bits for my niece,
whose 12th birthday is coming
up. On top of that, Im in the
process of just finishing off a
vintage-style apron, also for
my daughter!
Yvette Whittaker, via email
Your daughters very lucky and her
apartments going to look beautiful!
We love these funky oven gloves.

Write in and share your


creations, tips and views

Email rosie.savage@aceville.co.uk or write to


Dear Sew, Sew Magazine, 1 Phoenix Court,
Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY.
sewmag.co.uk

11

A New Year
and a new

creative you

AROUND

119

Theres no better time to enhance your


enjoyment of sewing and theres no
better machine to have by your side than
a Singer. Our range of contemporary
sewing machines draws on 160 years
of heritage to help you produce perfect
projects every time. Now thats got to be
worth singing about.

10 Built-In
Stitches

AROUND

149
23 Built-In
Stitches

2250

2263

Also available models: 2259 with 19 stitches & 2273 with 23 stitches and 1-step buttonhole

Tradition
For further details and information on your nearest stockist, please call 020 7336 7986,
email info@singerco.co.uk or visit www.singerco.co.uk

dressmaking

DRESS
MAKING

24

Weve got
pages
of style & inspiration
PAGE

32
Stitch an
Amy Butler
dress

your

free

pattern

No-pattern
Drawstrings
Smocking
Adding a
lining

Get stitching ahead for summer with your


FREE empire-line dress pattern download,
which featured on The Great British Sewing Bee.
Made up in a gorgeous print, this versatile dress
will flatter every figure. Featuring a shaped
bodice, pleated skirt and a midriff band, it is
best suited to an experienced sewer.
We've also got a fabulous no-pattern
drawstring dress to try, and we go loopy for lace
as we delve into the history of this intricate
handmade textile, along with great ways of
customising your clothes with lace panels.
Steph Durrant, Sew Deputy Editor

Customise your
look with lace

PAGE

15

PAGE

27

PAGE

www.mandco.com

20

Top summer

dress patterns
sewmag.co.uk l 13

THREADING IS A

THE NEW

WITH
MO-1000 AIR

Air Threaded Loopers


Automatic Needle Threader
Produces beautiful sharp curves for
necklines and sleeves
Use 2, 3 or 4 threads to produce 7
different finishes including rolled hem
Wide Throat Area gives
excellent visibility of the
fabric whilst overlocking
Adjustable Differential
Feed gives a professional
finish even on stretchy or
knit fabrics

To find your nearest dealer :


www.juki-uk.com or Tel 01206 563955/574758

DRESS
MAKING

itedEditio
m
i

th Februa
ry
14

valiableto
nA
Download
PATTERN
ONLINE

Put your dressmaking


skills to the test with our

summer
dress
This empire-linedress from
Simplicity was made by Stuart Hillard
on series one of The Great British
Sewing Bee. It features a shaped bodice
and a pleated skirt with pockets,
making it suited for a more experienced
sewer. Cut flatteringly to fit only around
the neckline and midriff band, the pleated
skirt skims obligingly over the hips and
falls to an elegant straight hem.

Join the worlds busiest online craft community today! busymitts.com

15

essentials
Fabric: cotton, medium
weight, printed, 2.8m, at
least 115cm wide; cotton,
lightweight, plain, 90cm,
at least 112cm wide
Interfacing, fusible,
lightweight, 15cm x 60cm
Zip, matching, 35cm long
Thread, sewing, matching
DIMENSIONS:
UK sizes 8, 10, 12, 14, 16

CUTTING GUIDE:
Bodice Back, cut two pairs;
one in fabric and one
in lining
Bodice Front, cut one in
fabric and one in lining,
both on fold
Midriff Front, cut one in
fabric, one in lining and
one in interfacing, on fold
Skirt Front, cut one on fold
from main fabric
Skirt Back, cut one on fold
from main fabric

CUTTING DIAGRAMS

talking
techniques
Installing a lining
Inserting a
lapped zip
Forming pleats
Adding pockets

Pockets, cut two from


main fabric
Pocket Facings, cut two
from main fabric
A 1.5cm seam allowance is
included on all the pattern
pieces, and a 2.5cm hem
allowance on the bottom
edges of the skirt front
and back. Choose either
the longer or shorter
length when cutting the
skirt pieces.

sew a summer dress

Fig. 1

Download the pattern from


www.sewmag.co.uk, print it out
and piece together. Press the fabric
thoroughly, then follow the cutting
guide to cut out the pieces. With right
sides together, place the bodice backs
to the bodice front at the shoulder
seams. Stitch with a 1.5cm seam
allowance throughout (Fig. 1). Press
the shoulder seams open. Repeat with
the front and back bodice lining.
Fig. 2

16

sewmag.co.uk

With right sides together, pin the


bodice lining to the bodice, matching
the shoulder seams and the point of the
V-neck. Stitch all along the neck edge
and around the armholes. Reinforce the
V by re-stitching over the original line of
sewing. Trim the seams, clip the curves
and into the V, being careful not to cut
the stitching (Fig. 2). Turn the lining to
the inside by pulling each back through
the front at the shoulder seam. Press.

DRESS
MAKING

If using a printed fabric, be sure to choose


a centre in the design and repeat this on
the bodice centre front and back, midriff
panel and skirt as much as possible
Vie Millard, Sew designer

Fig. 3

Open up the whole piece so that you


can place the centre back edges
right sides together. Pin the seam from
the bottom of the lining up, through the
seam joining the lining to the bodice
at the neck, then down to the hem
of the main bodice piece. Stitch
and press the seam open. Turn
the lining to the inside and
press (Fig. 3).

Tack the raw edges of the two layers of the


bodice front together along the side and bottom
edges. Fold along one solid line at the lower edge of
the bodice front and bring the fold to the broken
line. Pin, then repeat for the other folds. Tack all
along the raw edge through the pleats (Fig. 4).

Necklace, 12, River Island

Fig. 4

Iron interfacing onto the wrong side of the midriff front


piece. With right sides together and raw edges aligned,
pin the upper edge of the interfaced midriff front to the
lower edge of the bodice front, then pin the midriff lining to
the other side in the same way. Tack through all layers and
stitch. Press the midriff front and lining downwards, and
tack them together along the side and bottom edges (Fig. 5).

HOT TIP

Fig. 5

Simplify the design of


the dress by omitting
the pockets. Adapt the
pattern by continuing
the line of the front skirt
piece to match the
shape of the back skirt.
Join the worlds busiest online craft community today! busymitts.com

17

With the bodice wrong


side out, open out the right
side seam edge of the back
bodice and wrap it over the
right side seam edge on the
front bodice, with the
right sides of the front and
back lining together and the
right sides of the front and
back bodice together, with the
raw edges aligned. Pin and
stitch the right side seam
through all four layers (Fig. 6).
With right sides together,
pin the pocket facing to
the skirt front. Stitch along the
curved skirt edge. Trim the
seam and clip the curves.
Turn the facing to the inside
and press (Fig. 7). Repeat
with the other pocket.

Amy Butler fabric


In The Great British
Sewing Bee, Stuart used
this striking Chinese
Lanterns print from
Amy Butler's Lark range.
Priced 13 per metre,
www.cottonpatch.co.uk,
0121 702 2840.

HOT TIP

SHOP
FOR...

Fig. 6

Care is
needed not to
catch the top
fabric when
sewing in the
side zip as it
disappears
into the
pocket.

8
Fig. 7

On the inside of the skirt front, with right


sides together and raw edges aligned, pin the
pocket piece to the pocket facing. Stitch the
curved outer edge, leaving the side seam and top
edges unstitched. Repeat with the other pocket.
Align the top and the side seam raw edges of the
pocket and its facing with the skirt front and
tack the pockets securely in place along these
edges (Fig. 8).

Fig. 8

With right sides together, stitch the skirt


back to the skirt front. On the left seam, sew
from the lower edge to the notch (where the zip
starts), then work a few extra reverse stitches for
strength. On the right seam, stitch from the hem
to the top (Fig. 9). Press the seams open.

Feather print
Sew designer Vie Millard
made up this dress in a
vibrant printed cotton.
Try this similar
multi-coloured feather
print, 8.99 per metre,
www.minervacrafts.com,
01254 708068.

Fig. 9

10

Start with one centre front pleat by


folding along the solid line to the centre
front. Pin, placing them vertically at the folds.
Repeat with the other centre front pleat. For the
remaining front pleats, fold along the solid lines
and bring to the broken lines, pinning as you go.
Repeat the whole process on the back of the
skirt. Tack across the front and back upper edges
of the skirt (Fig. 10).
Fig. 10

Simplicity pattern
This dress is from
Simplicity pattern 2886,
which includes further
bodice and sleeve
variations, and a bolero
jacket. Priced 8.15,
www.simplicitynewlook.
com, 0161 480 8734.

18

sewmag.co.uk

DRESS
MAKING

STITCH IT...
in a bold
print

12

Insert a zip using the lapped method, aligning


the top of the teeth with the armhole. Turn the
top of the zip tapes under and slip stitch to neaten
(Fig. 12). Machine sew or slip stitch a double hem
along the lower edge of the skirt.

Makeupin

Fig. 12

Densely woven
cotton and cotton
blends, lightweight
denim, chambray,
jacquard, shantung
or taffeta

STITCH
MORE
For this and
many more great
patterns from the
series, check out
The Great British
Sewing Bee by
Tessa Evelegh
(20, Quadrille
Publishing Ltd).

coming
next issue...

11

HOT TIP

With right sides together,


pin the skirt to the
bodice, matching the right side
seams and left opening edges.
Tack, then stitch. Press the
seam up towards the bodice
and finish the raw seam edges
with machine zig zag or
overlocking stitches (Fig. 11).

The structure of
this dress
demands a fabric
with plenty of
body for a
flattering fit and
to emphasise its
elegant shape.

Fig. 11

FREE with next issue we


have a fabulous limited
edition pencil skirt
pattern download
from The Great
British Sewing Bee
suitable for
beginners.

On sale 14th
February

Turn the
page for
day dress
patterns
Join the worlds busiest online craft community today! busymitts.com

19

pattern

Picks

Prettify day attire


with a casual dress

Dresses dont just have to be reserved for special


occasions there are lots of relaxed, feminine styles
which are ideal for daywear too. Often featuring a
longer length and some kind of sleeve, many designs
are also easier to construct as they tend to be less
fitted than more formal dresses.

Opt for a
loose style
for comfort

Pattern
of the
Month

Colette Patterns
Macaron
Sizes 0-18
Fitted bodice with
darts
Contrasting top
yoke
Sleeves and midriff
band
Pleated skirt with
pockets

HOT TIP
Many patterns feature
international sizes which differ
from ready-to-wear sizing. It is
essential that you take your
exact measurements and
compare with the sizing charts
on each pattern
20

sewmag.co.uk

ON THE
HIGH
STREET

This casual day dress


from La Redoute has
loose, comfy style
ideal for popping over
leggings or a pair of
tights. It has a short
length, but features
long sleeves and a
drawstring waist. The
bodice features a
button-up front with
pretty pin tuck detailing.
Printed dress, 49, www.laredoute.co.uk,
0844 842 2222.

DRESS
MAKING

day dresses

PLUS SIZES AVAILABLE

We
Love

Simplicity
Amazing Fit
2247

Sizes 10-18
Princess seams
Empire seam
below the bust
V-neckline and
sleeve variations
Make up in crpe
back satin, crpe
de chine or
lightweight linens

Butterick 5211 is
an ideal garment
for those new to
dressmaking as it
doesnt contain any
tricky seams, darts
or zips.

HOT TIP
Eliza M
Wanda dress

As this dress is bias cut,


hang it for 24 hours before
finishing the hem to allow
for any natural drop
in the seams.

UK Sizes 10-18
Retro 1950s style
Bodice with
integral sleeves
Bust darts and
empire seam
V-neckline and
A-line skirt

New Look 6093

1940S INSPIRED

Sizes 8-24
Loose-fitting
tunic style
Gathered sleeve
variant
Optional self belt
Stitch in
lightweight linen
or stable knits

GREAT FOR BEGINNERS

Butterick 5211

SIMPLE SLEEVES

DAY DREAMS

MAKE IT!

Sizes 4-16
Bias cut dress
Skirt panels
Sleeve variations
Sew in soft,
floaty fabrics

STOCKIST INFORMATION
For Simplicity and New Look patterns, visit www.simplicitynewlook.com, 0161 480 8734.
For Butterick, visit www.sewdirect.com, 0844 880 1263.
For Eliza M patterns, visit www.elizamvintagesewing.co.uk
For Colette Patterns, visit www.sewbox.co.uk, 01787 269366.
sewmag.co.uk

21

dressmaking

SOS!

Have you got a


sewing problem?
Our panel of experts will
help you resolve it
Write in to us at
stephanie.durrant@aceville.co.uk

Meet the experts...


Alison Smith is a published author and
runs the Alison Victoria School of
Sewing. She is also a Mettler thread
ambassador and MBE holder. Learn
more at www.schoolofsewing.co.uk
Susan Backhouse is the founder of
Londons Fashion Antidote fashion
school. Find out more at
www.fashionantidote.com
Lisa Comfort is a published
author and runs the Sewing
Cafe, London. Learn more at
www.sewoverit.co.uk

I have made a toile for a garment, how do I go


Q Once
about identifying any alterations needed and then

transferring those to the paper pattern?


Jacqueline James, Isle of Wight
Alison Smith:

A toile is a mock-up of the garment you are intending to make.


Creating a toile will not only help you to fit the pattern correctly, but
provides a good opportunity to check you like the style before
cutting into expensive fabric. Try to get a friend to help you if you
can as it's difficult to fit a toile yourself. Stand in front of the mirror
and look critically at the garment. Start by analysing how it fits at
the bust, waist and hip. If the fabric is pulling taut then unpick a few
stitches at the side seam or over the bust seam until the material
has an easy fit. Measure the gap and make a note of it. However, if
the fabric is too loose, pin out the excess at the stitching lines.
Next, check the shoulder length. Is it sitting on the shoulder or
overhanging the arm? If the shoulder is too long, just add a little
tuck to it. Look at the neckline as sometimes this can look too loose.
If so, just pinch out 3mm sections at a time to tighten the curve.
Finally check the length. Once all this has been done on the calico,
remove the garment and measure where you have altered. You can
then either add paper underneath the pattern at the seams which
need expanding, or pinch out extra fullness on the tissue paper in
the corresponding positions.

22

sewmag.co.uk

Most
commercial
sewing patterns
will need to be
altered to
improve the
fit for your
body shape

DRESS
MAKING

THIS MONTH...
alterations

How to...
alter princess
seams

I struggle to get skirt


Q patterns
to fit as I have

Find the bust point on the paper pattern.


If this is not marked, it will be at the
widest part. Mark the positions on the
side front. Draw a line parallel to the hem on
the centre front and cut along this line.

quite broad hips but a small waist.


What is the best way of altering
a pattern to get a good fit?
Carol Salsbury, Norwich
Susan Backhouse:

Start by taking accurate body


measurements; tie a piece of thin elastic
around the waist to establish the natural
waistline and measure around it. To find your
hip measurement, the upper hip is from 7.5cm
below the waist and the lower hip is measured
around the fullest part. Compare your body
measurements to the sizes on the back of the
pattern envelope. Choose the one
corresponding to your larger measurement,
in this instance the hip one. If you feel that the
hip area fits on the skirt but the waist is too
loose, then you can do a simple pattern
adaptation. Cut out the skirt pattern in the size
corresponding to your hip measurement.
Deduct your own waist measurement plus
ease from the one on the pattern. This is how
much you need to decrease the waist by. Divide
this by four to get the amount you need to take
from each side seam. Lay out the front and

back pattern pieces and mark the reduction on


the waistline. For instance, if you are reducing
it by 6cm, dividing this by four equals 1.5cm.
Mark a point 1.5cm away from each front and
back side seam on the waistline. Draw a line
following the curve of the hip from this point
down to meet the hip line 6cm to 8cm below
the waist. Use a curved ruler to help you draw
the new cutting line. Trim away the surplus
pattern. The optimum amount of reduction
you can do on the side seams without
distorting the pattern is around 6cm. If the
amount is more, you can additionally reduce
the waist measurement by adjusting the size
of the darts. Draw new dart lines outside the
lines of the existing darts increasing the size of
each dart equally so that you reduce the waist
measurement when you construct them.

always been tall and struggled


Q Itohave
get trousers long enough, so
I thought I'd make my own. However,
commercial patterns still come up too
small; is lengthening them just a case
of extending the hemline?

Measure the body from shoulder to


bust point to waist. Compare this with
the measurement on the centre front
pattern piece and move the pieces
accordingly. Tape the pattern to paper
placed below to secure it.

Cut into the seam allowance at the


bust point and from there along
the seam allowance to the armhole
and hem.

Linda Beale, Milton Keynes


Lisa Comfort:

How you alter a trouser pattern depends on the


style; if they are a straight leg trouser then yes,
lengthening the hem is all you need to do.
However, if they are tapered or flare then you
will need to lengthen from the knee as well as
the hem. On a flared trouser, the flare will start
from the knee so at this point you should draw a
horizontal line, perpendicular to the grainline,
and slash the pattern open. Add the extra length
to match your hip to thigh measurement. Do
this by sticking a piece of paper where you have
cut the pattern, making sure it is an even strip
all the way across. If you still need to add extra
length, you can do this at the hem.

READER OFFER...

Pivot the two seam allowance pieces


at the armhole and hem, moving
them apart at the bust point.
Move these the same amount as the
centre-front pieces.

Measure the body from the side to the


centre front horizontally through the
bust line. Add the required amount of
ease to this measurement and check this
against the adjusted pattern pieces (overlap
them at the seam allowance when
measuring). Smooth out the seams and edges.

For more troubleshooting tips and technical


how-tos, take a look at Dressmaking to Flatter Your
Shape by Lorna Knight (16.99, Bloomsbury). Sew
readers can purchase a copy for the special price of
11.99 with free UK postage by calling 01892 510850
and quoting Sew magazine.

sewmag.co.uk

23

THINK PINK
ALEXANDER HENRY REGENT PEACOCK COTTON
LAWN, 16.50 PER METRE, WWW.FANCYMOON.CO.UK

WILMINGTON PRINTS CAROUSEL DREAMS IN TOILE PINK,


8.90 PER METRE, WWW.PLUSHADDICT.CO.UK, 0845 519 4422.

As a subtle nod to Valentine's Day , why not stitch up garments


in feminine shades of rose, coral, cerise and fuchsia?

Steph Durrant

Rosie Savage

Sew Editorial Assistant

I would love to make a pretty


pair of pyjamas from this
dreamily soft cotton lawn

This enchanting merry-go-round


print reminds me of the fairground
scene in Mary Poppins

Vie Millard
Sew designer

This soft twill would be great for a


lightweight jacket to wear as a cover-up
on a breezy spring day
24

sewmag.co.uk

COTTON LAWN IN CANDY, 11.96 PER METRE,


WWW.SEAMSTAR.CO.UK, 01829 770733.

SMALL FLORAL TWILL BY KIYOHARA IN CORAL,


16 PER METRE, WWW.ETERNALMAKER.COM

Sew Deputy Editor

Lorraine Luximon
Sew Editor

Light and airy, this colourful paisley


lawn would make a stunning maxi
dress for an exotic excursion

DRESS
MAKING

DRESSMAKING
fabric
shopping

6
3

2
9

PINK MOODBOARD

1 Wilmington Prints Carousel Dreams in Toile


Pink, 8.90 per metre, www.plushaddict.co.uk,
0845 519 4422.
2 Cotton lawn in Candy, 11.96 per metre,
www.seamstar.co.uk, 01829 770733.
3 Dress It Up Colour Me buttons in Hot Pink, 2.45
per pack, www.beadandbuttoncompany.co.uk
4 Small floral twill by Kiyohara in Coral, 16 per
metre, www.eternalmaker.com
5 Briar Rose Strawberry in Pink, 12 per
metre, www.thevillagehaberdashery.co.uk,
020 7794 5635.
6 Medium polka dot silk crpe de chine,
23.20 per metre, www.beckfordsilk.co.uk,
01386 881507.
7 Bertie's Bows grosgrain rose print
ribbon in Pink, 3.49 per metre,
www.beadandbuttoncompany.co.uk
8 Liberty Lifestyle Stile Collection Lowke
Colourway C, 14 per metre,
www.sewbox.co.uk, 01787 269366.
9 Cotton houndstooth in Melon by
Bonnie & Camille for Moda, 12 per metre,
www.eternalmaker.com
10 Cotton print with flowers in Antique Pink,
4.88 per metre, www.fabric-dreams.co.uk
11 Alexander Henry Regent Peacock cotton
lawn, 16.50 per metre, www.fancymoon.co.uk,
0845 519 4354.
12 Printed polycotton check dress fabric in
Cerise Pink, 2.99 per metre,
www.minervacrafts.com, 01254 708068.

12

10
11

sewmag.co.uk

25

V
Dressmaking mannequins on sale at
Valentinos
Available in Male, Female & Child sizes
UK manufactured
Excellent prices
Free UK delivery
01489 808007 - info@valentinosdisplays.com

www.valentinosdisplays.com

26

sewmag.co.uk

custom

made

DRESS
MAKING

Add laceto your look


and have all eyes on you

How to...

make a lace sleeve vest top

Beginning approximately 3cm from the end


of a lace trim, pin the front of the lace down
and along the strap of a vest top.

Cut the excess lace trim away if


desired you can use this to add detail
to the hem of your top too.

Wear white
lace for a
fresh
appearance
www.mandco.com

If you're adding lace to a hem or sleeve,


incorporate this Blue Mist ribbon to
create a more striking look. Priced 3.75
for three metres, www.johnlewis.com

Hand stitch or machine sew the lace to


the strap, and continue all the way
round on the armhole.

Overlap one edge of lace over the


other, then hand stitch the ends
together creating a circle.

the blog...
You can pinch the underarms together and add
a few stitches or create a dart, but when you
wear the top your arms will do this naturally.

Make it!
Velvet dream

Turn over
for more
on lace

This tutorial comes from the


wonderful Love Maegan,
created by Maegan Tintari.
Visit www.lovemaegan.com
for more fantastic ideas.

Lovely lace
Cut-out
number
Add lace to a cut-out
dress to make it more
wearable. Priced 55,
www.yumidirect.co.uk

We adore this Chantilly-style lace,


which comes in this pretty
Champagne colour. Priced 13.79
per metre, www.fablace.co.uk

sewmag.co.uk

27

Save 5o% off all

PATTERNS!

50% OFF
SIMPLICITY

Home Patterns
Create cushions, curtains
and more for the home

Kids & Accessories


Make something for all the family
with easy-to-follow patterns

Garment
Patterns
Choose from a
range of styles
and sizes for
all the family

Visit www.simplicitynewlook.com using voucher


code SEW5o14 from 1oth Jan to 14th Feb 2o14.

Download
TEMPLATES
ONLINE

Create your own pattern


to make Amy Butlers

drawstring
dress
This patterned rose and cream
dress features a drawstring
neckline, shoulder slits, and
elastic cuffs. Its casual, loose
style means that its reasonably
easy to make with no tricky
fitting or zips to master. It looks
great when paired with a
high-waist belt or worn free.

32

sewmag.co.uk

DRESS
MAKING

DECORATE IT...
with smocking

essentials
Fabric: printed, cotton, 183cm; plain,
white, lightweight, 138cm
Thread: all-purpose, coordinating; elastic
Bobbin, machine
Elastic, 6mm wide, 70cm
Pen, fabric
Safety pin
Ruler
DIMENSIONS:
Small: bust size 34" (68)
Medium: bust size 36" (1012)
Large: bust size 39" (1416)

CUTTING GUIDE

Use a ruler and a fabric


pen or pencil to mark the
measurements for your
dress size directly onto
fabric using Fig. 1. The
length of the dress is 117cm
with a 2.5cm hem included.
Cut two pieces, a dress
front and a dress back.
DRESS FRONT AND BACK

create the sleeves

Find the centre (halfway) point at the top


of the sleeve by folding it in half lengthways
and making a snip at the top fold. Open the
sleeve flat and, using a ruler and fabric marker,
draw a 15.2cm line down from this point,
perpendicular to the top edge (Fig. 3). Cut
along this line. Repeat on the second sleeve.

(Fig. 1)
Lengthways (straight) grain

Sew all seams with right sides together,


using a 1.3cm seam allowance, unless
otherwise indicated. Back stitch at the
beginning and end of each seam.

65cm(S) 69cm(M) 72cm(L)

pieces 2.5cm shorter than the


dress along the bottom edge.
To lengthen or shorten the
dress, make adjustments at
the hemline.
Visit www.sewmag.co.uk
and download the armhole
curve template. Select your
size and use it to mark and cut
an armhole curve from both
top corners of the front and
back dress and lining pieces
(Fig. 2). Set these aside.
DRESS FRONT AND BACK
Top Corners

Armhole
Curve

81cm(S) 84cm(M) 86cm(L)

Use these pieces as


patterns to cut a front
and back from lining
material. Trim the lining

Cutting
Line

(Fig. 2)

Use a ruler and fabric pen


or pencil to mark the
measurements for your sleeve
size directly on the fabric. Cut

two: small 48.9cm length


x 57.1cm width; medium
49.5cm length x 60.3cm
width; large 50.2cm length
x 63.5cm width. Use the
template to mark and cut two
armhole curves at the
top corners of each
sleeve (Fig. 3 see below).
For the sleeve facings,
measure the new width
at the top of the sleeve and
use a ruler to mark it on the
crossways grain of the lining
fabric. Add 5cm to this length
for added seam allowance.
Draw a parallel line of the
same length 5.4cm above or
below the first line. Draw
perpendicular lines at each
end. Cut two strips.
Fold each strip in half by
bringing the short ends
together and cut in half. You
should now have four pieces
5.4cm x half the top sleeve
width measurement. These
will be used as sleeve facings.
Set them aside.

SLEEVE

and press 6mm in along one long edge.


Using a fabric pen and ruler, mark a line parallel
to and 6mm below the opposite long edge
(Fig. 5). Repeat for the other binding.

15.2cm

Centre

Top Corners

(Fig. 5)
Armhole
Curve

(WS)

Cutting
Line

6mm

(WS)

(RS)

(Fig. 3)

Reinforce the
slit with stay
stitching 6mm
from the cut edge
Stay
Stitching
and tapering down
to the bottom.
(Fig. 4)
Pivot at this point,
then stitch back up
the other side to within 6mm of the opposite
cut edge (Fig. 4). Repeat on the second sleeve.
To make two fabric binding pieces, measure
and mark a 3.2cm wide (crossways grain)
x 30.5cm long (lengthways grain) rectangle
directly onto fabric. Cut two. Lay each binding
piece on an ironing board wrong side up

Bring the folded long edge


(Fig. 7)
of the binding over the
6mm seam to the wrong side
of the opening and have it
SLEEVE
extend slightly past the
(WS)
Binding
stitching line. Pin from the
right side, then machine
stitch in place (Fig. 7).
Press smooth. Repeat for the
second sleeve. Sew the sleeve
seams and press the seam
allowance to one side.
For the sleeve hems, turn
up 1.3cm to the wrong side along the
bottom edge of each sleeve. Then, turn up a
further 1.6cm to make the casing for the elastic.
Stitch around the sleeve bottom 1.3cm
away from the folded edge, leaving a small
1.9cm section unstitched as an opening
for inserting elastic (Fig. 8).

Spread the 15.2cm slit of one sleeve open


and, with right sides together, pin the slit to
the marked long edge of one binding strip,
aligning the long edges. Position the stay
stitching along the slit so it matches the 6mm
marked line on the binding piece. Stitch with
the slit side facing up, then press (Fig. 6).
Binding

SLEEVE
(WS)

SLEEVE

1.9cm
unstitched

(WS)

(Fig. 6)

Casing

(Fig. 8)

Join the worlds busiest online craft community today! busymitts.com

33

HOT TIP

Use a
vanishing pen
to draw your
pattern
directly onto
your fabric
so it won't
permanently
mark the
material.

WHAT
TO BUY

Cut two pieces of elastic following these


measurements: small 29cm; medium
30.5cm; large 33cm. Using a safety pin
attached to one end of elastic, insert it into the
opening of the casing and use the safety pin to
feed it through. When it comes back through
the opening, cross the two elastic ends on top
of each other and tack them together. Machine
stitch the gap closed.
Take the four sleeve facing sections and on
one short end of each, turn in 1.3cm to the
wrong side and press. With right sides together,
pin the sleeve facings to the tops of each
sleeve with the folded end of the facing lined
up with the finished edge of the bound
plackets (slits) at the top of the sleeve, and
the other raw end lined up evenly with the
top of the armhole curve.
Sew the facing to the armhole curve with a
1.3cm seam. Begin 1.3cm in from the end of
the armhole curve, take a few stitches, back
stitch, then sew across the top of the sleeve
until you get to the placket and back stitch
again. Start again on the other side of the
placket, back stitch and continue sewing until
you are 1.3cm from the opposite armhole curve
(Fig. 9). Press. Repeat with the remaining
sleeve facings on the other sleeve. Then press
6mm of the long, unsewn edge towards the
wrong side and stitch in place.

Join facing
and lining with
1.3cm seam

Amy Butler chose to


use Souvenir in Ivory
from her Lark range
to create this dress.
Priced 13 per metre,
www.cottonpatch.co.uk,
0121 702 2840.

For this and other


sewing and
quilting projects
created in support
of women's heart
health, take a look
at Sew Red:
Sewing & Quilting
For Women's
Heart Health by
Laura Zander
(14.99, Sixth &
Spring Books).

(Fig. 10)

(RS)
Armhole
Curve

LINING

SLEEVE

(WS)

(RS)

(Fig. 9)

(RS)

14

Sew the dress and the lining together


along the top edges, meeting up at the
point where the sleeve facings and the sleeves
are stitched together (Fig. 9). Press these
seams open. Turn the lining to the inside of the
dress, then press it flat along the top edge. Tack
the armhole seams of both the lining and the
dress together either by hand or by machine.
Keep the dress right side out (with the
lining inside) and pin again along the top
edge of the dress where you just pressed to hold
the lining and the dress together and to prepare
for making the drawstring casing.
Make the drawstring casings at the top
of the dress. With the right side of the
dress facing up, start stitching around the top
of the dress, 1.9cm down from the top edge,
beginning at one of the sleeve openings.
Stitch across the front of the dress to the other
sleeve opening, catching the lining and the
sleeve facings in the stitching.
Sew a second row of stitching 6mm
down from the first row. This should
secure the bottom edges of the sleeve facings
on the insides of the sleeves (Fig. 11). Repeat
on the back of the dress and press.

15

16

17

assemble the dress

10

Sew the dress front to the back at


the side seams. Press the seam
allowances to one side. Repeat with the
front and back lining pieces. Press the
seam allowances to one side.
Pin the sleeves to the dress, matching
the underarm curves and the side
seams of the dress with the sleeve seams.
Stitch along the curve, keeping the sleeve
facings free from any stitching.
With the lining wrong side out and
the dress right side out, slip the dress
into the lining, matching the top edges of the
front and back dress and lining pieces, and
pin them together.
Before stitching the dress and lining
together at the top, turn back the sleeve
facings to the right sides of the sleeves and
match the short, unstitched ends with the top of
the lining at the seam where the dress and
sleeve meet. Stitch them together and press the
seam allowance towards the lining (Fig. 10).

11

12

sewmag.co.uk

(Fig. 11)

Drawstring
Casing

(RS)

Marked gathering
lines 6mm apart;
first line 1.9cm
below casing

13

34

1.3cm turned in

Amy Butler fabric

READ
MORE

1.3cm of
sleeve facing
unsewn

(RS)

18

Using a ruler and marking pen, draw six


lines starting 6mm below and parallel to
the last stitching line for the casing. The lines

DRESS
MAKING

Meet the
designer...
AMY BUTLER

talking
techniques
Drawstrings
Smocking
Adding a lining

Amy Butler contributed


to Sew Red: Sewing &
Quilting For Womens
Heart Health by Laura
Zander (14.99, Sixth &
Spring Books) by
creating this vintage-inspired garment,
as she lost her grandparents to the
silent killer. Amy has been honing her
skills in fashion and surface design
since she was seven years old, and
while she spends much of her time
focusing on sewing and designing
fabric, she also makes time to take
good care of herself through diet,
exercise, and managing her mind.

should be drawn 6mm apart on both the front


and the back of the dress, starting and
stopping at the sleeve seams (Fig. 11).
Hand-wind elastic thread onto an
empty bobbin, applying a very gentle
stretch to the elastic and winding in the
same direction as your machine winds your
bobbin thread. Put the bobbin in your
machine or bobbin case and thread it as usual.
Set your machine at a stitch length of 3.0
or longer. Keep your top thread threaded
as normal and pull your elastic thread
up through the needle plate.
With the right side of the dress
facing up, back stitch, then slowly
sew across the first marked line. The elastic
thread will stretch as it sews and create a
smocked look across the front of the dress.
Back stitch when you reach the end of the
line. Repeat with the remaining lines.
When you are finished smocking, change
back to your regular stitch length and
all-purpose thread in your bobbin.
To make the two drawstrings, measure
and mark two strips 3.2cm (crossways
grain) x 137cm (lengthways grain) out of the
remaining fabric and cut them out. Fold each
strip in half lengthways, wrong sides together,
and press a crease along the folded edge.
Open each strip, then fold each long edge in
towards this centre crease and press.
Fold the strips in half again at the
centre crease enclosing the raw
edges and press. Pin, then edge stitch
down both long edges. You will then have
two drawstrings approximately 6mm wide
x 137cm long. Using a safety pin, feed the
drawstrings through the openings in the
front and back casings. Make a small knot
at the end of each drawstring and tie
together at the shoulder.
To make the hems on the dress and
the lining, turn up 2.5cm along the
bottom edges to the wrong sides and press.
Tuck the raw edges of the hems into the
pressed crease to make a 1.6cm hem.
Topstitch close to the top pressed fold.

19

20

21

22

23

Join the worlds busiest online craft community today! busymitts.com

35

machine spotlight
Create neat hems with
an overlocker

WIN

a sewing
machine
worth 749!
Turn to page 92

Finish your projects like a pro with an


overlocker model. They cut and sew the edges of
your garments so they are neat and secure, all in
one easy motion. Most modern models have
simple threading systems too, so you can stitch
quality garments at home in no time.

JUKI MO-1000
The Juki MO-1000 overlocker helps you finish seams
like a pro with ease. It provides effortless threading with
the power of air and the needle can be threaded in just
three simple steps. Unleash your creativity with
numerous stitch patterns including a rolled hem and a
decorative frill edge. Other convenient features are the
adjustable differential feed and presser foot pressure,
an option to deactivate the upper knife, a wide throat
area, plus a handy waste collector.
l

Air supported threading

Quiet operation

Adjustable differential feed

Wide throat area

Waste collector
Price: 995
Contact: www.juki-uk.com, 01206 563955.

British Sewing
Awards
vote now!

Its your last chance to ensure your


favourite sewing machine brand
places in the British Sewing Awards.
Vote now on page 39.

36

sewmag.co.uk

Graphic
touch
screen

Built-in
carry
case

PFAFF COVERLOCK 4.0

AEG 760

The Pfaff Coverlock 4.0 is a handsome machine


boasting a range of great features. Access extended
information on each of the 25 stitches on the graphic
touch screen then, once selected, the machine will
set optimum thread tension, differential feed and
stitch length. Threading is easy with colour coded
thread paths and theres no need to change the
presser foot or needle plate when swapping stitches.

This four thread overlocker has a free arm


and a built-in differential feeding mechanism.
It automatically neatens and trims fabric as it
sews and stitch length can be adjusted on the
unique dual dial. The lay-in colour coded threading
system and telescopic thread guide make it
easy to set up. Theres also a front cover
safety power cut out switch.

Stitches: 25
Key features: LCD touch screen, large sewing
space, differential feed, memory function, dual LED
light sources, safety lock out, five sewing speeds,
large variety of stitches.
Price: 969
Contact: www.pfaff.com, 01527 519480.

Stitches: Various
Key features: Dual dial selection, differential
feed adjustment, free arm, safety feature,
easy threading system, adjustable stitch width,
telescopic thread guide.
Price: 399
Contact: www.aegatadjustoform.co.uk,
01233 625227.

HAPPY HEMS

DRESS
MAKING

MODEL OF
THE MONTH

Model
of the
month

HUSQVARNA VIKING HUSKYLOCK S21


With features that focus on ease of use and professional
results, youll be impressed by the creative possibilities
available with the Huskylock S21. A large sewing surface
makes fabric feeding easier and more accurate, and
there is an extension table included for major projects.
Choose from two, three or four thread overlock stitches,
rolled hems and more, then the machine will
automatically set the thread tension for you.
Stitches: 21
Key features: Threading guide DVD, large sewing
space, differential feed, automatic settings including
thread tension, chain stitch and cover stitch for
seaming and hemming.
Price: 679
Contact: www.husqvarnaviking.com,
01527 519480.

SHOP OF THE MONTH

Large
sewing
space

This month the Sew team


met Paul Field, owner of
Rona Sewing Machines
Rona Sewing Machines is
a family run business which
has been trading since 1949.
Originally making sewing
machine cabinets and
carry cases, we started
manufacturing worktops for
industrial sewing machines
in the mid 1950s. We opened
our first shop in Edmonton,
London, in 1969, then moved
to Waltham Cross,
Hertfordshire, where we
have been located for the
last 39 years. We sell,
repair and service most
makes of machine and
stock a large range of
fabrics and haberdashery.
Paul Field,
Rona Sewing Machines

Whats on offer?
l

Free training and support

Excellent aftersales service

Many machines in stock to try

Wools, fabrics, and haberdashery

Find out more...


Visit Rona Sewing Machines,
143a High Street,
Waltham Cross, Herts, EN8 7AP.
Alternatively, log on to
www.onlinesewingmachines.co.uk,
01992 640250.

sewmag.co.uk

37

SEW
YOU

MY SEWING ROOM
Sewing and style blogger, Ami Lowden The Little Tailoress,
tells us what she loves about creating her own wardrobe

I learnt to sew from my mother


when I was a little girl, and
started to dabble in making my
own clothes when I was a
teenager. I remember the first
self-made garment I wore out was
a bright green, lace, boned bodice
based on something Jennifer
Aniston wore in the film Picture
Perfect. An interesting style
choice, with very questionable
finishing on the inside! But it
stayed in one piece and I have
never been one to shy away from
diving in at the deep end. After
university, I took several short
courses in professional finishing
techniques, pattern cutting and
tailoring at London College of
Fashion and have been developing
my skills ever since.
My mother is a very creative
and practical person and my
childhood in many ways affirmed
the phrase necessity is the mother
of invention. I grew up in a house
full of patchwork quilts, rag dollies
and handmade dresses; my mother
always used her sewing and craft
skills to make the most out of what
we had, and taught me the benefit
and the pleasure of creating things.
She has definitely been a huge
inspiration to me.
I started my blog, The Little
Tailoress, as a way of recording the
things I was making. When you
sew and wear your own clothes it
is easy for them to just become a
working part of your wardrobe and

Sewing has given me a wonderful


outlet for my creativity and allowed
me to express myself in a way that
simply wouldnt be possible otherwise
it is nice to have the blog as a
way of capturing the process,
before they are worn and wellloved. At the risk of sounding
dramatic, sewing has changed
my life! It has given me a
wonderful outlet for my
creativity and allowed me to
express myself in a way that
simply wouldnt be possible
otherwise. I think it's a great
shame that sewing and related
skills fell out of favour for so
long and that the design and
manufacture of clothes has been

outsourced from the UK to such


a degree. I would love to see a
return of proper sewing classes
at schools and more
opportunities being created for
young people to develop their
sewing as a hobby or career.
My style is very classic;
I adore the fashions of the 1920s
to 1960s and think this comes
through in most of the things
I make and wear. I love the care
that went into making clothing in
the past, and I would jump at the
chance to become involved in

Find more from Ami at www.sewinglondon.co.uk


38

sewmag.co.uk

some period costume work


should the opportunity ever
present itself. As well as sewing, I
am addicted to knitting and I own
more yarn than I care to admit.
I also love to bake, paint, and, of
course, go vintage shopping!
I love what I do so much. It's
been fantastic connecting with
other people who get excited by
the same things I do. I like the
fact that taking time to make my
own clothing means that I really
value and look after my
possessions. One of my absolute
favourite things about sewing
is the ability to recreate the
classic styles I love, and making
up a vintage pattern really
gives me a feeling of being
connected with a past era.

Vote now at www.sewmag.co.uk/awards

British

Sewing Awards

Vote now!
Give recognitionto your
H favouritesewing shop,

H
Three easy steps to vote...

Vote in each category on the


form overleaf

personality, machine and


more in the British Sewing
Awards 2013
H

Thank you for all your nominations for the upcoming British
Sewing Awards. We asked you to name all of your best-loved sewing
products, brands and resources and had an overwhelming response.
Those with the most nominations have made it through to the voting
stage. You can now place your final votes and make sure your favourites
feel your support. Simply complete the form overleaf or visit
www.sewmag.co.uk/awards. Not only will you have the
opportunity to have your opinion heard, but you will also be in with
the chance of winning a bumper prize contributed by our nominees.
Get voting!

Complete your contact details

Send it to us at

Marketing Department,
British Sewing Awards,
21-23 Phoenix Court,
Hawkins Road,
Colchester, Essex,
CO2 8JY

Or visit www.sewmag.co.uk/awards to vote online now!

WIN!

H
H

DIES FROM SOME OF


O
O
G
F
O
E
IZ
PR
R
PE
M
BU
A
IES AND BRANDS!
N
PA
M
CO
D
TE
A
IN
M
O
N
OUR

H
H

Not only can your favourite


sewers and brands win, but so can
you! By voting, you are entered
into a prize draw and could win
a stash of stitching goodies!

Items pictured for illustrative purposes only

sewmag.co.uk

39

Vote now at www.sewmag.co.uk/awards


PRODUCTS:
Best thread brand
Madeira
Aurifil
Gtermann
Mettler
Coats

Other................................................

Best brand of
haberdashery tools
Hemline
Fiskars
Clover

Other................................................

Best fabric brand


Moda
Makower
Michael Miller
Liberty
Tilda

Other................................................

Best new product 2013


Downton Abbey fabrics
Creative Grids Diamond and

Lone Star Bias Ruler


Magical Teepee by Just For
Tiny People
Other................................................

SEWING MACHINES:
Best user-friendly sewing
machine brand
Janome
Singer
Husqvarna
Brother
Bernina

Best sewing blog


Plush Addict
Minerva Crafts
Sew, Mama, Sew!
Craftsy

Best pattern house

Best website for


sewing resources

Simplicity
Butterick
Vogue
McCalls
Burda

The Sewing Directory


Minerva Crafts
Plush Addict
The Cotton Patch
Lady Sew & Sew

Other................................................

RETAILERS:
Best UK chain store
John Lewis
Dunelm Mill
Abakhan Fabrics, Hobby

& Home
Fabric Land
Hobbycraft
Other................................................

Best independent
haberdashery shop
WALES...
Lee Mill Fabrics, Swansea
Venn School of Sewing,

Cardiff
Calico Kate, Lampeter
Other................................................

SCOTLAND...

Mandors, Glasgow

Edinburgh
Linlithgow

Other................................................

Leons Fabrics, Chorlton


Minerva Craft Centre,

Most desirable
sewing machine

Patchwork Parade, Oldham

40 l sewmag.co.uk

Other................................................

RESOURCES AND
ACTIVITIES:
Favourite sewing personality
Tilly Walnes
Kaffe Fassett
Jennie Rayment
Kirstie Allsopp
Jo Colwill

Other................................................

by Tessa Evelegh (Quadrille


Publishing)
The Sewing Book by
Alison Smith (Dorling Kindersley)
Sew by Cath Kidston (Quadrille
Publishing Ltd.)
Vogue Sewing by
Crystal McDonald (Sixth and
Spring Books)
Other................................................

Best for sewing


workshops/courses
Cowslip Workshops, Launceston
Craftsy
MIY, Brighton
Lady Sew & Sew, Marlow

Other................................................

Best exhibition/show experience


2013
The Festival of Quilts
The Knitting & Stitching Show,

Harrogate

The Knitting & Stitching Show,

Alexandra Palace
Spring Quilt Festival, Malvern
Other................................................

CLOSING DATE: 14TH FEBRUARY 2014

Ballymena
Other................................................

Pfaff
Brother
Husqvarna
Janome
Bernina

Other................................................

Plush Addict
Minerva Crafts
John Lewis
Lady Sew & Sew
Frumble

to Sewing (Readers Digest)


The Great British Sewing Bee

NORTH OF ENGLAND...

Kilroot
Quilters Quest, Belfast
Fiddlesticks Fabrics,

Purely Patchwork,

Lady Sew & Sew


Plush Addict
Minerva Crafts
The Cotton Patch
Frumble

Best for customer service

Readers Digest Complete Guide

Other................................................

Craftswoman Fabrics,

Best quilting/embroidery
sewing machine brand

ONLINE:
Best online retailer

Other................................................

Best sewing book

Please complete your details


Title: ........................Forename: ...............................................................
Surname: ..................................................................................................
Address: ....................................................................................................
....................................................................................................................
....................................................................................................................
Postcode: ..................................................................................................
Contact number: ......................................................................................
Email: .........................................................................................................
Date of Birth: DD/MM/YY.................../......................./.........................
Signature: ..................................................................................................
Date: ............................../................................./.......................................

IRELAND...

Edinburgh Fabrics,

Other................................................

Birmingham
The Bramble Patch, Weedon
Other................................................

Other................................................

Other................................................

Janome 525S
Brother Innov-is V5
Janome Memory Craft 9900

Totally Patched, Bewdley


The Cotton Patch,

Voting H H
form

Darwen
Other................................................

SOUTH OF ENGLAND...
Cowslip Workshops,

Launceston
Lady Sew & Sew, Marlow
Ditto Fabrics, Brighton

Send your completed voting form to: Marketing Department,


British Sewing Awards, 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road,
Colchester, Essex, C02 8JY.
Conditions of entry
All entries must be received by 14/02/14. The competition is open to all UK residents
aged 18 and over, excluding employees or agents of the associated companies & their
families. One entry per household. Prizes will be given to the first entrants drawn at
random on 15/02/14. Entries must be made at www.sewmag.co.uk/awards or on the
coupon provided (no purchase necessary). Photocopies are NOT accepted. Illegible
entries and those that do not abide by the rules will be disqualified. No responsibility for
entries lost, delayed or damaged in the post. Proof of posting is not proof of delivery.
The decision of the judge is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Winners
name and county will be available by sending an SAE marked British Sewing Awards to
Andrea Turner, 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY.

Other................................................

MIDLANDS...
Freds Haberdashery,

Chesterfield
Guthrie and Ghani,

Birmingham

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SEW
GIFTS

Give your wedding day a personal


touch with Sandra Hamiltons

wedding
ring pillow
The dove is a traditional symbol of peace and
love, which is why weve used it on this charming
ring pillow. Perfect for any wedding day, the
design is made using freshly-coloured felt and
embroidery in ocean blue and gold. It is placed onto
soft wool felt and decorated with a border of
stitches and seed beads. Simply tie the rings onto the
ribbon and give it a starring role on the big day.

Download
TEMPLATES
ONLINE

turn
over for
more!
Join the worlds busiest online craft community today! busymitts.com

41

SHOP
FOR...

FILL IT...
with dried
lavender

Dried lavender
Create a beautiful
aroma by inserting a
smattering of dried
lavender into your pillow.
Priced 3.50 for 50g,
www.naturaleigh.co.uk,
0845 900 3833.

Turn to
p99 for an
explanation
of couching

Wool felt: mint, A4 sheet;


turquoise, 19cm x 20.5cm
Felt: white; light green;
dark green; purple, scraps
Seed beads
of each
Ribbon, blue, 40cm
Line your pillow with
cerulean blue seed
Thread: embroidery,
beads. Priced 2 for 8g,
pearlised, blue; green;
www.beadmerchant.co.uk, yellow; gold; sewing, white
01376 570022.
Beads, seed, blue
Paper, tissue
Fibre filling
Dried lavender (optional)
DIMENSIONS:
19cm x 20.5cm

stitch a wedding
ring pillow

To download and print the


templates, visit
www.sewmag.co.uk. Cut out
the body and wing of the dove
twice, then place the two wing
layers together and arrange the
two body layers on top over
Gold thread
mint-coloured wool felt. Stitch
Add just a touch of sparkle in place using white thread and
with shimmering gold
embroidery thread. Priced tiny whip stitches.
Trace the arabesque
2.49 for 100 metres,
www.pandurohobby.co.uk,
pattern onto tissue paper,
0844 848 5692.
then place it over the dove and
pin in place. Using two strands

42

sewmag.co.uk

of blue embroidery thread


and split stitch, sew through
the tissue paper over the
pattern. For the eye, create a
multi-spoke star and stitch a
blue seed bead to the centre.
Fill the beak with small
pieces of gold thread, then
use couching to secure the
thread ends to the pillow on the
reverse. Repeat for the birds
legs. Once finished, carefully
tear the tissue paper away.
Using the template, cut out
the following: five roses
and three calla lilies from
white felt; five rose leaves from
dark green felt; three calla lilies
from purple felt; three calla
lilies, two calla lily leaves and
one bouquet backing from light
green felt.
Tightly roll up the roses and
stitch to secure. Curve the
square ends of the calla lilies
around a small piece of gold
thread and secure. Arrange the
flowers and leaves as desired,
then stitch to the bouquet
backing before securing to the
mint felt, just below the bird.
Create the stems of the
bouquet using either stem
or split stitch with two strands

of green embroidery thread, ensuring they cover


the ends of the doves legs. Fold blue ribbon in
half and stitch securely to the pillow where the
doves feet would be.
Cut out the mint felt measuring 19cm
x 20.5cm, making sure to centre the bird
and bouquet design. Place turquoise wool felt
of the same size on the back. Use two strands
of white embroidery thread and small running
stitches to sew around the felt pieces, 2cm from
the edge, sliding a seed bead onto the thread on
every alternate stitch. Leave a gap, add a small
amount of stuffing and lavender if desired, then
sew closed.

This ring pillow would be a


beautiful addition to any
wedding day, and makes a
great memento for the bride

HOT TIP

essentials

Sandra Hamilton, Sew designer

As an alternative to tissue
paper, use a transfer pencil to
trace the arabesque design
onto the bird.

Suppliers of mail order fabrics for over 40 years


we source beautiful fabrics from
Britain, Europe and rest of the world.

Burda
pattern
shop

Quote
SEW10 at
checkout
to receive
10% off

Last chance to buy a special


selection of limited stock patterns!

Stylish skirt(7196) from Burda pattern shop

Courtesy of Simplicity
Patterns (1589)

Patterns for the


latest fashion trends
and news from the
sewing industry, plus
dressmaking guides
with tips & advice

The Pattern Pages

T: 023 92 354162 - www.thepatternpages.com

sewmag.co.uk

43

Download
TEMPLATES
ONLINE

Give your look a feminine touch with Lisa Steed Daveys

Collar necklaces are the trend du jour, which is why weve designed one thats
perfect for Valentines Day or any romantic occasion. Made simply from felt and
adorned with pretty pearl buttons and cube beads, youll find this accessory to be a
real crowd-pleaser. You can even make a ring and earrings to match.

44

sewmag.co.uk

Dress, 19.99, New Look

button jewellery

SEW
FASHION

ADORN IT...
with pearl
buttons

SHOP
FOR...

Shell buttons
Mix things up with a
variety of different shell
buttons we adore these
daisy shapes from Josy
Rose. Priced 75p each,
www.josyrose.com

Make
&Do
essentials
Felt: purple, 3mm thick;
pink, 5mm thick
Buttons, shell hearts,
assorted sizes: pink; purple
Beads, cube, pink
Fusible webbing
Thread, silk: pink; purple
Necklace chain
Necklace clasp
Jump rings, 10mm, two
Earring sieve
Beading needle
Hole punch, small
Pliers, flat-nosed
Ring blank

HOT TIP

DIMENSIONS:
Necklace: 9cm x 15.5cm

When making the


ring, ensure the
ring blank sticks
to the felt by
squeezing them
together with
bulldog clips.

make a necklace

Go to www.sewmag
.co.uk to download and
print the bib template. Trace
it onto pink and purple felt,
then cut out. Stitch a number
of pink and purple heart
shell buttons to the pink felt
using thread in the opposing
colour. Sew pink cube beads
between the hearts using a
beading needle.
Fix the purple felt to the
back of the necklace with
fusible webbing. Using a small
punch, make a hole at each
end of the collar. Connect a
10mm jump ring to both ends
using flat-nosed pliers, then
connect chain to either side,
to the desired length. Add a
necklace clasp to finish.

create matching
earrings

Cut out two circles from


pink felt to cover the width
of an earring sieve. Using the

Create an accompanying ring by


attaching pink felt adorned
with three buttons to a
ring blank.

sieve findings, sew the felt circle to it.


Attach a large pink heart to the felt using
pink thread, then fix a slightly smaller
purple heart on top.

Necklace chain
Change up the look of
the necklace with the
colour of the chain.
Visit Beads Direct for
a huge selection in
all shapes and sizes,
www.beadsdirect.co.uk,
01509 218028.

LOVE
CREATING
JEWELLERY?
...get your
hands on our
sister title
Make & Sell
Jewellery.
The February
issue is on
sale now!

Brightly-coloured felt
Lisas used feminine shades
of pink and purple felt, but
you could always mix
things up with another
bright colour. Priced
from 3.50 per sheet,
www.bloomingfelt.co.uk,
01245 471690.

Join the worlds busiest online craft community today! busymitts.com

45

Show someone how much you


love them with Susie Johns

Valentine
tokens
What better way to share your love than with a project youve put your
heart and soul into? With several embroidery designs, you can either
choose your favourite or mix and match to create your own variation.
The stitches used on the hearts are satin, chain and split stitch, all of
which are quick and easy to do. Embroidery is a timeless art, meaning
these hearts can be treasured for years to come. Use scraps from your
work basket, and make a beautiful gift without breaking the bank.

46

sewmag.co.uk

Download
TEMPLATES
ONLINE

SEW
GIFTS

MAKE IT...
with vintage
linen

essentials
Fabric, cotton, assorted
plain and prints, scraps
Linen napkins and
traycloths, vintage, scraps
25cm square
Thread, embroidery,
Anchor, Lavender;
Wineberry; Thistle; Denim;
Peony; Beauty Rose; Surf
Blue, 8m skein of each;
sewing, white
Ribbon, embroidery, dark
pink; light pink, 4mm wide;
green, 2mm wide
Embroidery hoop
Erasable pen or pencil
Needle, crewel; sewing
Fibre filling
Dried lavender (optional)
Key
DIMENSIONS:
Rose heart: 16cm x 19cm
Moustache heart:
16cm x 19cm
Personal heart: 15cm x 17cm
Key heart: 13cm square

make a rose
heart

Go to www.sewmag
.co.uk, download the
templates and print out.
Trace the large heart shape
and wording To my Valentine
onto a vintage napkin or
similar piece of linen, trying
to incorporate any existing
embroidery on the fabric within
the boundaries of the design.
Place the fabric in an
embroidery hoop and fill
in all the lettering in satin
stitch, using three strands of
thread: use Lavender for the
words To my and the small
diamond on the V, and use
Wineberry for the word
Valentine. To make the
lettering really sumptuous,
use padded satin stitch.
Create ribbon roses
following the panel
opposite in dark pink for the
lower two flowers and lighter
pink for the remaining one.
For the stems and leaves, use

green ribbon: stitch a straight


stitch below the largest rose,
to form a short stem, then sew
two more straight stitches,
joining this rose to each of the
other two. Add detached
chain, also known as lazy
daisy, stitches to form leaves,
using the photograph of the
finished heart as a guide.
Remove the fabric from
the hoop, place face down,
and press lightly on the
reverse with a hot iron, taking
care not to flatten the
embroidery stitches. Cut out
the heart shape, following the
line you transferred in step 1.
Place the embroidered
heart shape face down on
a piece of plain or patterned
fabric, pin and stitch the two
fabrics together 1cm from the
cut edge using back stitch (or a
sewing machine). Cut away
the excess backing fabric and
snip into the seam allowance
on all curved edges. Turn right
side out and stuff using fibre
filling, dried lavender, or a

Make your own...


ribbon roses

Thread your needle with two


strands of embroidery thread in a
colour which closely matches the
ribbon youre using. Work a fly stitch
to create three spokes, then do two
further straight stitches, so that you
have five straight stitches radiating out
from a central point. Fasten off the
thread at the back of the work.
Thread your needle with ribbon, knot
the end and bring the needle up
to the front, close to the centre of the
five spokes.
Take the needle under one of the
spokes then, working anti-clockwise,
take it over the next spoke, under the next,
over the next and so on, working outwards
from the centre and twisting the ribbon
from time to time. Continue until you
have gone round about three or four times
and reached the outer edge of the five
spokes. Then take the needle through to
the back of the work and fasten off.

2
3

Join the worlds busiest online craft community today! busymitts.com

47

WHAT
TO BUY...
Make
one of
these
fabric
hearts for a loved
one, to remind
them of you. Fill it
with dried lavender
and they can store
it in a drawer, to
fragrance their
clothes and keep
the moths away!

Embroidery thread
Dont skimp when it
comes to embroidery
thread. Always use
good quality like these
skeins from Anchor, as
it will be stronger and
give a lasting effect.
Priced 68p per skein,
www.sewandso.co.uk,
0800 013 0150.

Susie Johns, Sew designer

Cherry print
Use prints and plain
fabrics of your choice for
the back of the hearts.
This little pink number
would be perfect for
Valentines Day. Priced
12.40 per metre,
www.thefabricloft.co.uk,
07791 639896.

mixture of both. Turn in the


raw edges by 1cm on the
opening, and slip stitch the
folded edges together.

the writing and moustache


are central. Add a fabric back
to the heart as before.

heart is mine and the small


heart motif onto a vintage
napkin or similar piece of
linen, trying to incorporate any
existing embroidery on the
fabric. It doesnt matter if the
piece of linen is smaller than
the medium-sized heart
template, as it will be mounted
onto a backing fabric.
Place the fabric in an
embroidery hoop and fill
in all the lettering in satin
stitch or padded satin stitch,
using three strands of Peony
thread. Complete the heart
shape using two strands of
Beauty Rose and split stitch.
Remove the fabric from the
hoop and press lightly on
the reverse. Place the
embroidered piece face up
on top of a piece of plain,
coloured fabric measuring
at least 18cm x 20cm and pin
the two pieces together.
Trace the medium heart
shape onto a piece of
card, cut out and use as a
template. Place it on your
embroidery and draw around
the edge, making sure the
writing and heart are central.

embroider a
stitch a
personal heart
moustache heart
Trace the wording Your
Trace the wording Love
me, love my and the
moustache motif from the
template onto a piece of plain
white linen. Place the fabric in
an embroidery hoop and fill in
all the lettering in split stitch,
using two strands of Thistle
thread, then fill in the
moustache shape using two
strands of Denim. Remove
the fabric from the hoop and
press lightly on the reverse.
Trim the fabric to within
2.5cm of the lower edge of
the moustache and the same
distance above the lettering.
Cut two strips of patterned
fabric, each measuring 5cm
x 18cm. With right sides facing,
join one strip to the upper edge
of the embroidered fabric and
one strip to the lower edge,
with a seam allowance of 1cm.
Press the seams to one side,
towards the patterned fabric.
Place the joined fabric
face down. Trace the
large heart shape onto a piece
of card, cut out and use as a
template. Place it on your
embroidery, draw around the
edge and cut out, making sure

Candy hearts
Why not decorate your
make with cute heart
buttons to really show
someone how much
you love them? These
ones are sweet as
sugar! Priced 2.97 per
pack, www.gregoryknopp.co.uk, 01634
375706.

48

sewmag.co.uk

With white sewing thread, work a tacking


stitch just within the line you have drawn,
through both fabrics.
As decoration and still using white thread,
use running stitch around the heart shape,
again through both fabrics. Add further lines of
running stitch along any embroidered areas
already on the fabric and the edges. Cut out
along the outline of the heart shape, add the
back and complete as before.

create a key heart

Trace the small heart template, the wording


The key to my, the flowers, and the heart
motif onto the centre of a piece of plain,
coloured cotton or linen fabric. Place the
material in an embroidery hoop and fill in all
the lettering in split stitch, using two strands
of Beauty Rose thread.
Outline the heart shape with chain stitch
using three strands of Lavender. Change to
Peony and embroider the flower petals in
detached chain stitch and the flower centres in
satin stitch, or use French knots if you prefer.
Switch to Surf Blue and embroider the stems in
stem stitch and leaves in lazy daisy stitch.
Remove the fabric from the hoop, place face
down and press lightly on the reverse with a
hot iron, taking care not to flatten the
embroidery stitches. Then cut out the heart
shape, following the line you made in step 1.
Add the back and complete as before.
Make a plait using six lengths of
embroidery thread (two each of three
colours), knotting each end of the plait, to
prevent unraveling. Fold in half, then push
the loop through the ring at the top of a key,
and stitch the two knotted ends to the back
of the heart, at the top. Add a small ribbon
bow, sewn in place at the front of the heart.

2
3

Thank you!

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50

sewmag.co.uk

Magazine
Packed with projects
for all interests and
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the most coveted
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products, pick up
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latest Sew today
from your nearest
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newsagent.

HOME &
INTERIORS

28

Weve got
pages of home
style, projects & inspiration

home

Modernity
rules

This issue were mixing old with new. Our


very own Corinne Bradd has made a set of
cushions with a distinct retro feel, yet the
traditional wreath is given a modern
makeover with different coloured felts. We
have classic designs including a heart motif
quilt made from Liberty fabrics, and a floral
print pocket apron thats perfect for the
garden. On the other end of the scale, we
explore this seasons penchant for all things
grey and yellow, offering your living space
a contemporary twist.
Weve also got an abundance of ideas
this month on how you can give your home
a quick update. Make your own lampshade,
dip-dye your bedding, stitch patchwork
curtains and more.

Grey and
yellow dcor
Top tips for a
dual-tone home
Myleene Klass
bed linen range
Computer screen
cover tutorial
Bird cross
stitch design

PAGE

54

Rosie Savage, Sew Editorial Assistant

Stitch a
retro cushion

PAGE

69

PAGE

67

Make a colourful felt wreath


sewmag.co.uk l 51

MONOCHROME
LIFE
COOL CATS BY PRESTIGIOUS TEXTILES, 14.40 PER
METRE, WWW.KINGDOMINTERIORS.CO.UK

BRANTFORD EXPOSITIOR PAGE BY CALLIOPE ROSE


HANDCAR JONES, FROM $10.50 PER FAT QUARTER,
WWW.SPOONFLOWER.COM

Deck your home in black and white for a cool and collected look

Rosie Savage

Steph Durrant

Everyone at Sew knows Im cat-obsessed Im


going to stitch a bed for my kitten Nola with
this purrfect print

I love incorporating history throughout my


home, so this digital restoration of the
Brantford Expositior from May 1898 is ideal

Sew Deputy Editor

Corinne Bradd
Sew designer

The narrative nature of this design allows for


so many different opportunities make a set of
cushions or create a wall art series
52

sewmag.co.uk

LITTLE TREES FABRIC IN MONOCHROME, 72.50 PER


METRE, WWW.MISSPRINT.CO.UK

LOVE CITY BY ALEXANDER HENRY, 12 PER METRE,


WWW.ETERNALMAKER.COM

Sew Editorial Assistant

Rebecca Drury
MissPrint Director

This pattern is a classic and the monochrome


colourway works well as it fits in with
everything, from brights to pastels or neutrals

HOME &
INTERIORS

HOME...

fabric shopping
5

3
4

6
2
7

MONOCHROME MOODBOARD

1 Little Trees fabric in Monochrome, 72.50 per metre,


www.missprint.co.uk
2 Typewriter lower-case alphabet wooden stamp set
by Inkadoo, 9.50, www.imaginedoingityourself.co.uk
3 Cool Cats by Prestigious Textiles, 14.40 per metre,
www.kingdominteriors.co.uk
4 Emily and Anne Brontes Diary by Peacoquette
Designs, from $10.50 per fat quarter,
www.spoonflower.com
5 Love City by Alexander Henry, 12 per metre,
www.eternalmaker.com
6 Royal gingham in black, 4 per half metre,
www.alwaysknittingandsewing.co.uk
7 Brantford Expositior Page by Calliope Rose Handcar
Jones, from $10.50 per fat quarter,
www.spoonflower.com
8 Home Sweet Home ribbon, 65p per metre,
www.josyrose.com
9 Pianoforte Keyboard Life-Sized by Sef, from $10.50
per fat quarter, www.spoonflower.com
10 Geisha curtain fabric in Graphite, 8.99 per metre,
www.terrysfabrics.co.uk.
11 Uma in Ebony, visit www.romo.com for stockists.
12 Monaluna polka dots, 7.60 per half metre,
www.modes4u.com

10
12
11

sewmag.co.uk

53

Let your home exude


this modern aesthetic

Prism embroidery
thread, visit
www.dmccreative.co.uk
or call 0116 275 4000
for stockists.

Leaf print wooden


buttons, 1.99 for 10,
www.beadandbutton
company.co.uk

Iron on schnauzer motif, 1


each, www.hobbycraft.co.uk

Fresh stripe ribbon in yellow


and grey, 41p per metre,
www.craftyribbons.com

fabric
1

2
3

Uptown Windows Yellow by Robert


Kaufman, 12 per metre,
www.plushaddict.co.uk
Bold Floral Round Flowers in Metal Grey
and Dandelion, 13 per metre,
www.myfabrichouse.co.uk
Passing Clouds in Gold by Eloise Renouf,
13.60 per metre, www.fabricrehab.co.uk

top
tips
HOT TIP

sewmag.co.uk

Sew Editorial Assistant Rosie Savage on introducing yellow and grey into your abode

Its easy to incorporate this two-tone


scheme into your home work on a room
that acts as a blank canvas and go to town
with accessories like grey and yellow
bedding, stand-out wall art or a gigantic rug.
When creating a grey and yellowthemed room, its best to take the
When sewing a geometric route. Opt for bold shapes like
wrap, make suretriangles, and try to keep things modern.
that the bias cut

54

Nature Study cross


stitch kit, 19.80,
www.sewandso.co.uk

GREY & YELLOW

Home
trends

STITCH IT

If you like to include a vintage touch,


design and make your own grey
cushions and place them on a retro
yellow Chesterfield sofa for an
old-meets-new look.
Create a feature wall with yellow
wallpaper and apply a fashionable
grey wall sticker on top to further
encourage a striking aesthetic.

Design a yellow and grey artificial


flower arrangement and place it on your
mantelpiece or coffee table to create the
perfect finishing touch. Update your
coasters and mugs for a coordinated feel.

Share your yellow and grey home


makes with us on Facebook
(www.facebook.com/sewhq) and
Twitter @sewhq.

Myleene Klass has created the Mousai bed


linen range. With tribal influences, this vibrant
design has flashes of chartreuse combined with
geometric monochrome shapes. For stockists,
visit www.ashleywildegroup.com

MAKE IT
ESSENTIALS
Fabric:

yellow and grey


stripe; plain for lining Basic
sewing kit

To work out the fabric


width, measure horizontally
across your screen and add
2.5cm for the seam allowance,
plus the depth. For the height,
measure vertically and add 5cm,
then double it. Cut one piece
from printed material and
another from lining fabric.
Fold the outer piece in half
lengthways, right sides
together. Pin, then stitch

HOME &
INTERIORS

Create a computer
screen cover
each side using a 12mm seam.
Repeat with the lining fabric.
Press the seams open.
To make a gusset, flatten
the side seam at the folded
end and pinch the layers
together to form a triangle. Stitch
across the triangle where its
12mm wider than the screen
depth. Repeat on the other side.
Trim away the tips. Repeat with
the lining.
Turn the outer piece right
side out, leaving the lining
wrong side out. Slip the
lining inside the outer piece,
aligning the seams. Turn over a
2.5cm hem inside the outer and
lining pieces and pin. Topstitch
and press.

GREAT
QUICK
MAKE
IDEA!

FIND OUT MORE

For more retro makes read Home Sewn


Home by Sally Walton (14.99, GMC Books).

sewmag.co.uk

55

SEW
COLUMN

QUILTERS CORNER

Get the latestpatchwork and quilting newswith Corinne Bradd


Make a quilt block
and raise money for
The Leukaemia
Foundation at
www.sunshine4all.com

I tend to make quilts up as I go


along, adding more and more
patches until the piece
becomes almost too big to
handle, then I stop. Theyve
always come out pretty well,
touch wood, but I sometimes
feel that I should work to a more
prescribed method. To overcome
my slapdash process (which
applies to everything from
wallpapering to cooking,
decorating and quilt making)
Ive got plans to make a series
of motif blocks to use in my
designs. I've never felt quite so
organised. Armed with freezer
paper, I shall attempt to create
perfect pictures and, if Im really
lucky, they might even resemble
what theyre supposed to! Don't
miss out on next month's Sew to
see how I get on I'm even going
to create a Mother's Day make,
which I'm sure you're going to
love. Stay tuned!

sewmag.co.uk

PROMISE

Corinne loves...
Zakka Japanese linen fabric
stash bundle, 19.50,
www.u-handbag.com,
01273 747112.

Show in focus:

The West Country Quilt Show


The West Country Quilt Show was a roaring success in
November. There was an excellent array of contributors
and traders including world-renowned artists such as
Kaffe Fassett, Tula Pink and Alicia Merret. This year also saw
creations from Stuart Hillard, who took part in demonstrations and
signed copies of The Great British Sewing Bee book.
I was thrilled and honoured to be asked to attend the second West
Country Quilt Show and be given exhibition space to show 10 of my
quilts, exclaims Stuart Hillard. Between teaching workshops and
demonstrating hand appliqu, I met many wonderful quilters, sewing
enthusiasts and interested visitors. I even managed to stock up on
some rather lovely reproduction fabrics and spent a fascinating half an
hour chatting with exhibitors from the Tent Makers of Cairo. This
show is already in my diary for 2014!
Event organiser Nigel Stevens says, I am so pleased at the way the
show turned out, with some of the best quilts in the country on display
and entries from overseas for the
first time. The overall winner was
Inner Circle Flower of Scotland
by Kay Bell of the Scottish Borders
who also won Best Large Wall
Hanging, Best Surface
Texture/Embellishment, and
Visitors' Choice!
The 2014 exhibition takes place from 13th
to 15th November at the Exhibition Centre,
University of the West of England. See
www.westcountryquiltshow.co.uk or
call 0117 907 1000 for more details.

56

Patchwork

Simon Haskins was


diagnosed with
Acute Lymphoblastic
Leukaemia in June
and wants to raise
awareness and
money with quilt
blocks being made all
around the world!

Inner Circle Flower of Scotland

Keep Calm and Quilt On


spiral notebook, 11.95,
www.zazzle.co.uk

We
Love

Road 15 charm pack by Moda,


9.95, www.cottonpatch.co.uk,
0121 702 2840.

VOTEFORUS!

Online quilt shop stocking hundreds of fabrics by


Art Gallery Fabrics, Moda, Makower and more,
as well as a full range of quilting tools, wadding,
and bag making supplies.

See our full range at:


www.pelennapatchworks.co.uk
tel: 01639 898444

sewmag.co.uk

57

The Bead and Button Company is a


leading UK shopping site that is
dedicated to the needs of the modern
crafter. We stock a huge selection of
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sewmag.co.uk

59

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60

sewmag.co.uk

HOME &
INTERIORS

Show some love with

Corinne Bradds

Liberty quilt

Download
TEMPLATES
ONLINE

If home is where the heart is, this quilt is perfect. Combine bright,
beautiful prints with patchwork hearts to create this gorgeous
design. It looks wonderfully intricate, but is easy to make. The size
and square shape of the quilt means that it is the ideal throw for a chair.
Use the Liberty prints listed or scraps from your work basket.

Patchwork
PROMISE

Join the worlds busiest online craft community today! busymitts.com

61

Fabric: Liberty Bloomsbury


collection, Virginia (D);
Dance (A); Woolf (D);
Copeland (A); Leonard (D);
Catherine (A); Charles (A),
fat quarter of each; cotton
sheeting, white, 120cm
x 240cm
Vilene iron-on quilt
wadding, medium-weight,
40cm square
Quilt wadding, 2oz,
120cm square
DIMENSIONS:
110cm square

make a
heart quilt

Take seven printed fabrics,


and cut 10, 5.5cm squares
from each. Mix up the squares
and stitch them together into
three by three blocks with a
5mm seam allowance, making
sure no two prints of the same
are touching. Press each block
and cut into quarters
measuring 7.25cm square.
Mix up the squares and
turn them all so the small
square sits in the bottom right
corner. To make a heart, you
will need seven squares. Cut
one in half diagonally from the
bottom right to the top left.
Then stitch the pieces together
to make a rough heart shape
(Fig.1). Press the seams flat.
Repeat this three more times
to end up with four hearts.
Go to www.sewmag
.co.uk, download the
heart template and print out.
Cut four hearts from iron-on

Fig.1
62

sewmag.co.uk

quilt wadding. Lay them on


the wrong side of the
patchwork panels leaving a
border all round and press
into place. Trim the excess
fabric to 1cm from the
wadding, clip curves and
corners, fold in and tack.
Cut a 120cm square of
cotton sheeting and place
to one side, as this will be the
back of the quilt. From the
excess sheeting, cut four
24cm squares. Pin a heart to
the centre of each square and
oversew in place. Remove the
tacking stitches.
Cut a 4cm x 55cm strip
from each of the seven
prints. Sew these together
on the long sides and press
the seams to make a panel
22cm x 55cm. Cut across
the panel to make 15,
3.5cm strips. Join these
end to end to make one
continuous strip of blocks.
Take two heart squares
and join them using a

strip eight blocks long, then repeat with the


other two heart squares. Join the two pairs
and form a square using a length seventeen
blocks long. Use the remaining strip as a
border around the heart squares.
Tear two 4cm x 120cm strips from
spare white sheeting. Use this to
add a border with overlapped corners
around the patchwork.
Cut 11, 10cm squares from each of the
seven prints. Take 32 of these squares and
make two strips seven squares long and two
strips nine squares long. Stitch the shorter
strips to the sides of the patchwork then add
the longer ones to the top and bottom,
matching up the seam lines neatly.
Add a second 4cm wide white border as
before, joining strips if necessary to

8
9

HOT TIP

essentials

When choosing wadding for


your quilt, think about the
season. Thicker wadding will
be more suitable for the colder
months, and polyester is often
warmer than other types.

HOME &
INTERIORS

LAYER IT...
using
appliqu

achieve the length needed.


Use 44 of the remaining
squares to make two strips
10 squares long and two
strips 12 squares long.
Stitch these to the edges
of the quilt as before.
Press the entire quilt
top and the square of
white backing fabric. Lay the
backing fabric on a flat
surface, place the wadding
centrally on top and add the
quilt top face up over this.
Pin the three layers together
working from the centre
out in all directions. There
should be excess wadding
and backing fabric all round.
Topstitch the quilt
along the seam lines
starting from the centre and
working out to eliminate

10

11

SHOP
FOR...

When using a sewing machine,


its important that it has a long
arm so the quilt fits properly. I love
the Janome Horizon 8900QCP
because theres plenty of space to work
Corinne Bradd, Sew designer
creases in the backing fabric.
Either use a long machine
stitch or running stitch if
quilting by hand. Once the
outer border has been
quilted, the excess fabric
from the underneath layers
can be trimmed away.
Bind the edges of the
quilt by tearing the

12

leftover white sheeting into 4cm wide


strips and joining end to end to make one
continuous piece. Stitch the strips to the
sides of the quilt and then the top and
bottom to make an overlapped border as
before. Turn the quilt over and turn under
5mm on the raw edge of the binding strip.
Fold the strip over the raw edge of the quilt,
mitring the corners as you do so, and slip
stitch to the back of the quilt.

Dance (A)
The collection was
inspired by Bloomsbury
Gardens, London, seen
in the beautiful florals.

Woolf (D)
This geometric
print complements
the patchwork
design perfectly.

Leonard (D)
Use ditsy prints
alongside large ones
for a dynamic look.

All the prints used for


this project are from
the Liberty Bloomsbury
collection. Visit
www.sewbox.co.uk
or call 01787 269366.

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63

Explore a different craft technique


with Ellen Kharade's

flower
cushion
Paper cutting, as the name suggests, is usually associated
with cutting intricate patterns from paper to make
decorative cards and pictures. We've been inspired by
this technique to create this pretty flower cushion. The
motif has been hand-embroidered in complementary
colours and embellished with buttons.

64

sewmag.co.uk

Download
TEMPLATES
ONLINE

HOME &
INTERIORS

MAKE IT...

HOT TIP

with wool felt

essentials

Contrasting fabrics will work well


for this project, so you could use a
dark base fabric with a light motif
as we have, or reverse it instead

Fabric: wool, white, 1m; wool


felt, ecru, 41cm square
Cushion pad, 41cm square
Fabric dye, Dylon, Ocean
Fusible webbing, 41cm square
Thread, embroidery: red;
orange; turquoise; lavender
Ellen Kharade, Sew designer
Ric rac, purple, 5mm
Buttons, small: blue, two;
lavender, two; turquoise,
webbing onto the back. Glue
stitches to the flower stems. Work whipped
five; flower, three
the back of the paper flower
back stitch along the central flower in red and
DIMENSIONS:
41cm square

stitch a cushion

Cut white wool into three


smaller pieces measuring
30cm x 45cm, 35cm x 45cm,
and 45cm square. Colour each
piece with blue fabric dye,
following the manufacturer's
instructions. Once the desired
colour is achieved, rinse until
the water runs clear and spin
on a short cycle. Leave to dry
fully, then press all pieces.
Visit www.sewmag
.co.uk to download and
print the templates for this
project. Cut the shape out so
you are left with the flower
motif. Cut a 41cm square of
ecru wool felt and iron fusible

motif to the fusible webbing,


then use a sharp pair of
scissors or scalpel to carefully
cut out the motif.
From the largest piece of
dyed fabric, cut a 41cm
square. Peel the backing paper
from the motif and place it
centrally on it. Lay cotton over
the fabric, taking care not to
move the motif, and press until
the felt is securely in place.
Using matching thread,
machine stitch around the
design, staying close to the edge.
Embroider the
tulip-shaped flowers
with blanket stitch, chain
stitch, and running stitch in
lavender and turquoise
embroidery thread, then work
whipped back stitch along the
flower stem, following the
shape of the flower as you do
so. Add buttons and star

orange thread and embellish with buttons. Add


French knots to decorate.
From the smaller dyed fabrics, cut a lower
back measuring 30cm x 41cm and an
upper back piece of 24cm x 41cm. Sew zig zag
stitches across the long edge of the lower back
section. Fold over a 1.5cm hem at the zig zag
edge, then pin and machine stitch into place.
Repeat for the upper back section and
machine stitch the hem. Sew purple ric rac to
the lower back piece, 6cm from the bottom.
Measure the position for the buttonholes,
3.5cm up from the hemmed edge. Mark
the centre of the cushion cover, then measure
10.5cm either side. Stitch buttonholes at these
three points, then carefully open them using a
seam ripper.
Lay the two back fabric pieces on top of the
front. Mark the positions for the buttons
and stitch on. With right sides facing and raw
edges aligned, pin the three pieces together
and machine stitch around the cover using a
1.3cm seam allowance. Snip the corners, turn
out, press under cotton fabric, then insert a
cushion pad.

Use the best


fabrics money
can buy, as this
will be reflected
in your work.
Pure wool felt
is luxurious, will
last a long time,
and will resist
bobbling.

SHOP
FOR...

Fabric dye
Ellen used this rich
Ocean Blue shade from
Dylon, priced 6.06,
to dye the wool felt.
Visit www.dylon.co.uk
for stockists.

Embroidery thread
Decorate the flowers
with a variety of
blue threads. Priced
1.10 per skein,
www.eternalmaker.com

Join the worlds busiest online craft community today! busymitts.com

65

Click &

focusLOVEfocusLOVEfocusLOVEfocusLOVE

SEW
ONLINE

Blog

Stitch

of the

Month
www.littlewinter.net
Little Winter became a place to get lost in
the world of a man, woman and their cat,
Runkle. It details and appreciates the
smaller things in life like the simple
pleasures of taking a tub of Ben & Jerry's
to bed and, alongside our love for fairy
lights and heart-shaped plates, tells the
tale of two little people working their way
through an average life. With a desire for
a perfect home, a love for fashion and some
baking thrown in for good measure, this is
somewhere to escape, accompanied
with a cup of tea and a slice of cake.
We've actually just moved home,
Follow Katy
and plan on giving it the same
and her
Little Winter touch that we did
familys
with the last one visit us to
adventures
see how we get on and, of course,
to see my obsession with ice-cream
and marshmallows get out of control.
Katy McPhedran, one half
of the blogging duo

The websites keeping us


busy this month...
www.apracticalwedding.com
If you're planning a
wedding, this site is
perfect for you. With
plenty of money-saving
DIY ideas and more,
you'll come away feeling
very inspired.

www.bedruthan.com
Do you want to head off
into the sunset with your
other half this Valentine's
Day? Combine it with your
love of sewing at the
gorgeous Bedruthan Spa
and Hotel in Cornwall.

www.sewmag.co.uk
Love is in the air, so why
not make our cross stitch
pencil case with a pair of
darling dogs and heart?
You could incorporate
the design onto anything
you like!

Darling discoveries
Green Grass

Red Bird Makes

I'm definitely a hopeless romantic, so I love


getting custom orders for loving gifts, explains
designer Liz Muller. The idea for my Mr and Mrs
passport covers was suggested by a customer
looking for a wedding gift, though it would make a
great Valentine's Day or anniversary present too!
Mr and Mrs passport covers, 29.70,
www.etsy.com/shop/greengrass2

I absolutely love the idea of these fab cushions


sitting side by side on the bed, exclaims Etsy
seller Joanna Kang. They'd be a perfect wedding
gift or house warming present, and make a pretty
quirky statement. I love that they provide a
modern, fun twist to romance.
His & Hers felt cushions, 56.23,
www.etsy.com/shop/redbirdmakes

Heart and Parcel


This handmade noticeboard is perfect for the
kitchen, bedroom, study or a teen's room, notes
designer Karenza Maynard. With its cream
background and tiny pink flowers, it would suit
any colour scheme. I love creating designs with
a heart motif; it's in the name of my company!
Floral padded heart noticeboard, 25,
www.heartandparcel.co.uk
66

sewmag.co.uk

HOME &
INTERIORS

Add a splash of colour with this fun

felt wreath
This funky wall hanging is simple to make and would
be a welcome addition to any home.
A rainbow-coloured wreath is suitable all year
round, or you can choose shades of your choice to suit your
colour scheme or to celebrate different occasions.
This make involves very few materials, so it's also a great
way to use up scraps from your work basket!

turn
over for
more!
Join the worlds busiest online craft community today! busymitts.com

67

WHAT
TO BUY...

MAKE IT...
with bright
felt

Funky felt
Blooming Felt offer a
huge range of colours.
They also provide
pre-cut shapes such as
hearts, so this project
couldn't be easier. Visit
www.bloomingfelt.co.uk
or call 01245 471690.

TIPS
FOR
FELT
Thin felt will need
a stiffener or some
backing to make it
stand up nicely.
Felt doesn't fray,
so there's no need
to hem.
Make sure to cut out
shapes using a sharp
craft knife or scissors
for a clean edge
without pulling fibres.
Use good quality felt:
it tends to be sturdier
and less likely to tear.
Use a mediumweight needle when
stitching with felt so
that it passes
through the thickness
easily but doesn't
leave large holes.
Iron felt using a
low, wool setting,
making sure to keep
the iron moving.

READ MORE

This project was taken


from Felt Fantastic by
Sarah Tremelling with
projects by Morven Jones,
(14.99, David & Charles).

Make your
own felt

Take some merino wool top fibres


and select your choice of colour.
Arrange as desired.

2
essentials
Felt, thick, assorted colours,
25cm squares, 11
Thread, sewing,
coordinating
Coat hanger, wire
Fibre filling
Cord

make a felt wreath

Untwist a coat hanger at the


join, using pliers if necessary,
then reshape into a circle,
leaving the hook at the top.
Take a 25cm square of
felt, and cut it into
approximately 20 irregular
shapes. Fold each shape in
half and snip a very small

68

sewmag.co.uk

Wet with hot water, place a layer of


muslin over the top and rub with
soap to lock the fibres together.

slit in the centre. Repeat for all the squares.


Arrange the piles of felt into a circle
of rainbow colours, as shown in the
diagram. Placing pieces from each pile
with its adjacent colour will give a
gradual shading effect. Thread the pieces
onto the wire, following the pattern
arranged on the circle.
When the wire is full, re-twist the
coat hanger and bend the hook into
a closed loop. As an extra detail, hang a
padded felt heart in the centre of the
wreath. Cut two hearts from pink felt (or
use pre-cut ones). Stuff lightly, and stitch
together using running stitch. Attach a
cord or thin strip of felt to the heart and
hang from the top of the wreath.

Roll the fibres in a bamboo mat,


creating further friction to thicken,
harden and shrink the materials.

You can find all the supplies to make your


own felt at www.bloomingfelt.co.uk

HOME &
INTERIORS

Use Art Gallery Fabrics Poetica


range to make Corinne Bradds

heart
pillows
Create perfect harmony in your living space with these
feminine cushions. Made using printed cottons in serene
greens, blues, pinks and purples, Corinne has created two
coordinated styles; a 3-D pillow with a pretty pleated frill,
plus a coordinating cushion with padded appliqu.

Download
TEMPLATES
ONLINE

Join the worlds busiest online craft community today! busymitts.com

69

Fabric: Art Gallery Fabrics,


Poetica range, Sweet
Melody Aqua; Spirited
Verse Azure, fat quarter
of each; Love Notes Mint;
Rhythmic Lilac; cotton,
white, 50cm of each
Fibre filling
Cushion pad, 40cm square
DIMENSIONS:
Heart cushion:
40cm x 47cm
Square cushion:
42cm square

sew a heartshaped cushion

Visit www.sewmag
.co.uk and print the large
heart template. Pin it to two
floral fat quarters and cut out
with a 5mm seam allowance.
Measure the perimeter of the
heart shape.
Cut six 6cm wide strips
from striped fabric
ensuring you cut across the
pattern. Sew the pieces end
to end to make one
continuous length
approximately 3m long. Fold
in half lengthways, right side
out, and press.
Stitch along the raw edge
through both layers with
a long, straight stitch. Do not
fasten the ends of the
threads, instead pull the top
thread to gather up the folded
fabric into a ruffle.
Alternatively, sew running

stitch by hand and gather up


to the measurement of the
heart perimeter, plus 5cm.
Fold in the ends of the
gathered strip and slip
stitch. Tack the ruffle to the
edges of one heart, right side
up, starting at the top
indentation and easing it
around the curves. Overlap
the ends of the ruffle.
Cut enough 6cm strips of
lilac fabric to measure the
perimeter of the heart when
sewn end to end. Pin this
gusset strip face down over
the ruffle, leaving a 1cm seam
allowance on the end and
starting from the bottom
point of the heart. Once
pinned in place, trim the
other end of the gusset to
a 1cm seam allowance.
Stitch the gusset and
ruffle in place. Remove
the tacking threads. Place the

Make
&Do
To create an alternative
design, why not patchwork
your heart cushion.

70

sewmag.co.uk

two 1cm seam allowances of the gusset right


sides together and sew down to join. Pin and
tack the second heart to the gusset. Sew
around the perimeter leaving a 10cm gap on
one straight edge for turning.
Clip all curves and corners before turning
out. Fluff up fibre filling well and stuff
into the cushion a little at a time to prevent
lumps forming. Use sufficient stuffing to give
the cushion a smooth, rounded finish. Fold in
the raw edges of the gap and slip stitch closed.

make an appliqu pillow

Visit www.sewmag.co.uk and print the


small heart template. Draw around the

HOT TIP

essentials

Use a contrasting thread colour


when working tacking stitches.
This will make them easier to
see when removing them
later on and will hopefully
help you avoid cutting through
the real stitching.

APPLIQU IT...
with hearts

HOME &
INTERIORS

SHOP
FOR

Love Notes Mint


This is reminiscent of a
serene meadow in spring.

Rhythmic Lilac
Passionate and moody, this
is ideal for a Valentinesinspired project.

I have used a contrasting fabric strip as a gusset


to make the heart cushion 3-D so its extra plush.
The ruffle then gives it even more dimension
Corinne Bradd, Sew designer
template nine times onto the
reverse of lilac fabric, leaving
at least a 1cm border around
each one. Top and tail them if
necessary to avoid waste.
Pin the lilac fabric face
down onto plain white
cotton and stitch around all
the hearts leaving no gap in
the outline.
Cut out the double
layered hearts, clip all
curves and corners before

2
3

snipping a 4cm wide slit in


the centre of the white layer
only. Turn the hearts out
through this gap and press.
Stuff each heart very lightly
with fibre filling to give it a
little puff.
Cut a 45cm square of
floral fabric and crease to
find the centre. Pin one heart
to the middle, lilac side up.
Pin the remaining hearts
around this leaving at least

a 4cm border at the edges. Oversew


the hearts to the square of fabric with
small stitches.
From the remaining white fabric,
cut two 30cm x 45cm rectangles.
Hem one long edge on each piece
before pinning to the cushion front,
right sides together with the hemmed
edges overlapping.
Stitch around the whole cushion and
turn out through the overlap. Press
and topstitch 5mm in from the edges.
Insert a cushion pad through the gap.

Sweet Melody Aqua


A bold floral print
incorporating pink, purple
and blue tones.

Corinne used prints in the


Seafoam Symphony
colourway from Art
Gallery Fabrics Poetica
range to create our heart
cushions. For stockists
visit www.hantex.com/agf

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71

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BUSINESS BITE
We speak to Sew Over Its very own Lisa Comfort

Sew Over It has gone from


strength to strength since it
opened in 2011. So how do you
run a successful sewing caf,
design patterns, teach and write
a book all at once? We find out
how Lisa Comfort does it all.

Lost art
I started Sew Over It for a number
of reasons. I was working for bridal
couture designer, Phillipa Lepley,
and teaching sewing on the side.
I quickly realised that I was
enjoying the teaching more than
my primary job. I also worried that
sewing was in danger of becoming
a lost art, as its omitted from the
school curriculum, and high street
stores offer clothing so cheaply
that the impetus to create your own
is lost. Id always known that I
wanted to start my own business
one day, so I decided to open a
sewing caf!

Living the dream


One of my favourite things about
what I do is designing the classes.
I also really enjoy the teaching; its
so rewarding and I love meeting the
customers and finding out what
they are sewing. It helps to keep me

Coming
next month:
Gordanas
House of
Sewing

The sewing caf was borne out of a desire to reinvigorate


peoples passions, and make sewing accessible, fun and
relevant to peoples lifestyles today
close to the business, knowing
what works and what people like.
I enjoy developing the business into
new areas, coming up with ideas
and following through on them.
Everything inspires me! From
sitting on the tube to visiting an art
gallery. At the moment Im reading
a biography on Marilyn Monroe; I
love her style and think I will have to
design something Marilyn-inspired
now! I am very lucky to enjoy what
I do so much.

Branching
out
The business has
grown so much
since we started.
The sewing caf
was borne out
of a desire to

reinvigorate peoples passions,


make sewing accessible to all and
most importantly, make it fun and
relevant to peoples lifestyles today.
We now teach over 12 classes a
week compared to six in the
beginning, and we add at least
three new ones every few months
based on customer feedback
and emerging trends. The team
has grown a lot too, and we
have developed further off-shoots
of the business.

Recovery time
As a consequence of running my
own business, I am extremely busy
most of the time. But I have a great
team behind me, which allows me
to take on new opportunities and
projects whilst ensuring the
business continues to run smoothly.

A lots happened over the years. Im


very proud of my book, Sew Over It
(15, Ebury Press), and getting the
contract with Selfridges was
amazing. I just need to find a way of
getting a few more hours in the day!

Lisas Advice
Make sure you are ready to
spend most of your day not
doing sewing-related things.
I spend 75% of my time
doing business tasks such as
website maintenance and
accounts.

Word of mouth is often the


best promotion, so make
sure customers leave happy!
Work out your strengths
and weaknesses early on and
enlist help for the latter. You
cant be good at everything,
so dont try.

For more information, visit www.sewoverit.co.uk


74

sewmag.co.uk

HOME &
INTERIORS

Make
yAoTuHrOsMeElf

Reinvent your living space with our


selection of home update ideas

cing up a room
othing quite beats the feeling of spru
ng in there
deri
in your home; you find yourself wan
not
its
But
just to have another look around.
ry
eve
hen
or kitc
practical to overhaul your living room
tle
sub
with
de
r abo
month. Instead, why not provide you
ch are
whi
s,
idea
of
nce
updates? Turn the page for an abunda
Sew
re
sha
We also
quick and purse-friendly all at once.
vent a room, and
rein
to
do
to
like
you
t
wha
reader tips on
rielle Blackman who
catch up with DIY SOS designer Gab
ion.
shares her story and update inspirat

www.marksandspencer.com

sewmag.co.uk

75

From stitching to dyeing, faux


upholstering and more, there
really is something for everyone...

www.woolworths.co.uk

IDEAS
Notebook

Dabble in
dip-dyeing

Interior stylist Emma Morton-Turner


teamed up with Dylon to create this
visually stunning bed cover set. Why
dont you give it a go? It couldnt be
easier, and youll end up with a
complete transformation. Visit
www.emmamt.com for inspiration.

2
Rejuvenate with
pretty patchwork
We adore these patchwork curtains
from Woolworths, which will
completely revamp a room. Why not
give it a go yourself with a selection
of ditsy prints?

Mark Scott Photography

MAKE IT...
Dylon machine
dye in Navy Blue

2 Free Spirit Tanya Whelan

6.06, visit
www.dylon.co.uk

3 per fat quarter,


www.moresewing.co.uk

Sweetie Rose Pink

3.25 per fat quarter, www.fabric8e.com

3 Sunshine Rose blue gingham


3.50 per fat quarter,
www.thehomemakery.co.uk

Make your own lampshade


Customising a tired-looking lampshade is
another great way to add a lease of life to a
room, especially if you can match the fabric
to a set of cushions, blinds or similar. Visit
www.needcraft.co.uk for a variety of
different lampshade making kits: choose from
small 20cm versions up to supersized 70cm
styles, then decide on a shape from the modern
drum to the classic candle design. Theyre so
good, in fact, that the wonderful Cath Kidston
hosts regular lampshade making workshops
nationwide using these very kits!
76

DYE IT...

1 Hanky Panky

sewmag.co.uk

3
CATH
KIDSTON
APPROVED!

HOME &
INTERIORS

Coordinate your prints

www.urbanroad.com.au

Have you ever been in a room that is pink in colour everywhere you
look, or doused in luminous green? Its not pleasant. You dont have to
make everything match in an extreme way; simply work a toning
palette of colours or type of fabric throughout a room in your home
for a more cohesive look.

Create an original time piece


This one-of-a-kind design will get everyone talking.
Why not place this clock embroidery hoop in your study?

essentials
Fabric, coordinating
patterns, four
Interfacing, fusible,
heavyweight
Embroidery hoop, 20cm
Card, thick
Clock movement
Wooden numbers
Tape, double-sided

4
Wall art can make a
striking focal point. To
create, simply cut fabric
to size and staple to a
blank canvas!

Pull up a chair
If your kitchen chairs are looking
a little tired but you dont want
the expense of buying a whole
new set, then freshen them up
with fabric to offer a new lease
of life. We show you how with a
pretty Laura Ashley print and ric
rac at www.sewmag.co.uk
go and check it out!

STITCH IT...
Wallace Natural/Multi
Dual Purpose Fabric
22.40 per metre,
www.lauraashley.com

OVER
TO YOU
We asked
you for
your home
update advice
on Facebook

Carole Johnson Pretty


duvet covers make cheap and
stylish matching curtains, and
are economical because the
two sides of the duvet make
the pair. A headboard can also
be made by covering a cheap
rectangle of foam with fabric
and applying tab tops then
hang behind the bed on a

DISCOVER
MORE

Hoop-laby Kirsty
Neale (14.99,
David and Charles)
is chock- full of
embroidery hoop ideas.

Cut four 15cm squares of


fabric and join together to
make a large patchwork square.
Iron heavyweight interfacing
onto the back and stretch into an
embroidery hoop. Snip through
a few of the stitches in the
centre of the patchwork to
make a small hole.
Trim thick card to fit into
the recess at the back of the
hoop. Make a hole in the middle
for the spindle of a clock
movement to fit through.

FIND
PROJECT

ONLINE

curtain pole to match your


window drapes.

Becky Little Update old


cushion covers by adding
ribbons or tassels. The
possibilities are endless!

Sam Cragg Recycle,


recycle, recycle! I love
reusing denim to make

FIND CLOCK
PARTS AT
WWW.FRED
ALDOUS.CO.UK

cushions, bunting and more.


Its a great medium to work
with, and is easy to bleach and
dye too. You can find some
great pieces in charity shops.

Louise Horler Make


your own lampshades. You
can buy kits and the small
ones only use half a metre of
fabric or wallpaper.

Stick to the back of the fabric


using double-sided tape.
Place the clock movement at
the back of the hoop and push
the spindle through to the front.
Screw the washers and hands
into place, following the
manufacturers instructions.
Glue wooden numbers
together in layers of two
or three. Fix to the clock face,
positioning them over the seams
in the fabric to mark the four
quarters of an hour.

Pamela Benn Use Freegle


or Freecycle. Ive got my hands
on rolls of fabric from people
and colleges getting rid of
old stock, and have made all
sorts including some really
lovely quilts.
Visit us at www.facebook.
com/sewhq to share
your ideas!
sewmag.co.uk

77

DESIGNER

spotlight

Gabrielle Blackman, an
interior designer on the
BBCs DIY SOS and
Channel 5s Cowboy
Builders, believes in
creating beautiful and
functional interiors for everyone
Ive always been interiors-obsessed, explains Gabrielle
Blackman. Growing up in a B&B run by my mother, I was
always helping her to dress rooms for guests and moving
furniture around. I was also very lucky that my parents
gave me a lot of confidence early on, allowing me to
decorate my own room I was ripping up carpets and
painting floorboards at the age of 12. Looking back, that
really was incredibly brave or bonkers of them, but it
seemed quite normal at the time.
Later on I trained as an artist, but it felt too
introspective and isolated for me. I wanted a career where
I could apply my artistic abilities, so interior design
seemed the natural choice. I was very lucky to start my
career working for some truly inspirational and talented
women: the iconic Mary Fox Linton who designed the
award-winning One Aldwych hotel in London, as well
as luxury interior designer Nina Campbell.
Im inspired by art and photography. I also love
museums and country houses Im constantly dragging
my family around National Trust properties, flea markets
and exhibitions. Thats why my personal style is all
about curating and blending. I have lots of cabinets
full of objects that are special to me. I love grouping
paintings and photographs that tell a story, and use a
lot of vintage furniture. I always draw from different
sources and never dress a house from just one shop;
cookie cutter design is something I despise, so I strive
to create interiors with personality.

Gabrielle enjoys creating


colourful rooms for children

Layer exciting prints


with plain white cotton

Many of her designs


have a vintage touch

Revamp Your Bedroom


ON A BUDGET

Gabrielle shares how you can dress a bedroom very


easily with a little sewing and some clever tweaks
Make a simple headboard
cover. Cut a piece of fabric big
enough to cover both sides and
the depth of your headboard,
allowing for a decent hem on
all sides. Press and hem all four
sides. Drape over the headboard.
Trim six 30cm lengths of
grosgrain ribbon in a punchy
colour. Create ribbon ties and
pin them in place, equally
spaced apart on either side
of your headboard. Fix Velcro
to the back of the headboard
and cover to prevent the
cover moving.
Create contrast layering.
I often use plain sheets in good
colours as throws layered with
more expensive blankets, but I

78

sewmag.co.uk

enjoy incorporating pattern with


a basic throw too. Cut fabric to
the size required and line it with
something interesting like
ticking stripe or a strong shade.
Quick-make cushions.
Envelope covers are ideal for
pillows or cushions on your bed.
Create them from three clashing
patterns for fun use one print
for the front of the cover and two
overlapping fabrics for the
envelope back.
Visit www.gabrielle
blackman.com for more
interior design inspiration,
and catch the new series of
Cowboy Builders on Channel 5
this spring.

THE ONE-STOP PATCHWORK AND QUILTING


SHOP FOR ALL QUILTERS.

Funky Felt Supplies - Handmade with Love

WITH AN EXTENSIVE RANGE OF FABRICS, BOOKS, PATTERNS AND NOTIONS.

We are the main Art Gallery Fabric Stockist. Also available Moda
Vin du Jour, English Diary Sweet Serenade and Tanya Whelan
Fabrics. We stock an extensive range of Patterns, Books, Kits
Waddings and Extra Wide Fabrics.
Regular Workshops, Authorised Brother & Husqvarna Sewing Machine Dealers, Authorised
Horn Furniture Specialists. Shop Opening Hours: Tuesday - Saturday 10am-4pm.

www.thefatquarters.co.uk
Tel: 01207 565728

5 Chopwell Road, Blackhall Mill, Newcastle upon Tyne NE17 7TN

Norfolk

Textiles

Oilcloth, Fabric &


Vintage Textiles

A fine Selection of oilcloths available please visit our


extensive website or call us to discuss your requirements

Great Range of Felt-based Sewing &


Craft Supplies!
Felt Beads, Balls and String - great for making funky jewellery
Felt & Crocheted Flowers, Felt Shapes, 100% Wool Felt
Sheets Remnant Silk Sari Ribbon, Spotty, Striped, Grosgrain
and Embroidered Ribbon, Ric-Rac and lots of bias binding.
Huge selection of Buttons including spotty, flower shaped,
hearts, squares and lots of giant buttons.
Plus: Jewellery findings, Needle felting supplies, Needle Felting
Kits, Wool Roving, Felt Purses and Gadget Cases, Jingle Bells,
DMC Soft Cotton Thread, Glues...and much more!

Come and see us on Stand M13 at


The Knitting & Stitching Show, London - 10-13 October

Check out our NEW range of Felt Gadget Cases and 2-Tone Felt!

www.norfolktextiles.co.uk - Tel: 01263 768237

sewmag.co.uk

79

Download
TEMPLATES
ONLINE

Make daily tasks a doddle


with Debbie Shores

pocket
apron

This useful apron will keep your


gardening tools in order and leave your
hands free for tending the plants, plus it can
easily be adapted for the painter, cleaner and
certainly the stitcher! This design has been
made with a variety of feminine prints, bias
binding and tape it's so simple, and will
definitely come in handy.

80

sewmag.co.uk

HOME &
INTERIORS

MAKE IT...

with practical
oilcloth

SHOP
FOR...

Floral oilcloth

READ
MORE

Create your apron with


the English Rose Sage
oilcloth from Norfolk
Textiles for a hard-wearing
yet pretty alternative.
Priced 13 per metre,
shop.norfolktextiles.co.uk

For more thrifty


makes, read Half
Yard Heaven by
Debbie Shore
(9.99, Search Press).

Red ribbon

essentials
Fabric, cotton or oilcloth,
two prints: 23cm x 46cm;
15cm x 46cm
Interfacing, fusible
(optional)
Bias binding, 190cm
Ribbon tape, 140cm
Fabric pen, disappearing
DIMENSIONS:
23cm x 46cm

stitch an apron

in half and mark the fold line


with a disappearing fabric
pen, then fold again and mark
the quarters.
Place the pocket, right side
up, across the lower part of
the apron piece and pin the
edges together. If the pocket is
slightly larger than the apron,
cut off the excess fabric so
they are exactly the same size.
Sew down both sides and
across the bottom of the
pocket, quite close to the edge

so the stitches will be concealed under the bias


tape. Topstitch the individual pockets along the
marked lines.
Curve the bottom two corners to make
binding easier, then sew bias binding around
three sides of the apron, excluding the top.
Fold 140cm of ribbon tape in half widthways
and mark the centre point with a pin. Lay it
across the top of the apron, aligning this point
with the centre top of the apron. Pin in place.
Make sure the top edge of the ribbon is
aligned with the top of the apron and sew
along the top of the ribbon to attach it.
Sew across the bottom to secure it.

Use this polka dot ribbon


for the ties in your design.
Priced 1 for two metres,
www.craftyribbons.com,
01258 455889.

5
6

Cut 23cm x 46cm from


printed fabric for the
apron, then 15cm x 46cm
from a coordinating print
for the pocket. If you're using
a lightweight cotton fabric,
back it with interfacing to
add weight.
Sew bias binding across
the top of the 46cm length
of pocket. Divide the pocket
into four equal sections: fold it

Strawberry print
We think this
good-enough-to-eat
design is an ideal choice
for a whimsical look.
Priced 13 per metre,
www.fabric
inspirations.co.uk

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81

Use pretty pastel


prints to make these

vintage
cushions

These coordinating cushions in

nostalgic prints are ideal for piling


onto a comfy sofa to sink into with a
good book or your latest sewing project.
Made using Gtermanns Ring a
Roses Summer Loft range of 100%
cotton fabrics, the geometric and
floral designs in spring-fresh pastels
are sure to lift any room.

Download
TEMPLATE
ONLINE

essentials
Fabric: Ring a Roses by
Gtermann, Summer Loft
range, Polka dot, blue,
40cm; Shamrock, pink and
green, 20cm; Teapot, blue,
scrap; netting, light blue,
12cm x 40cm
Thread, sew-all,
coordinating
Bias binding, pink, 130cm
Lace, bobbin, light green,
1cm wide, 130cm
Trim, pom pom, jade
green, 80cm
Button: cover, 4cm;
small, shirt
Fibre filling
Fusible webbing
DIMENSIONS:
36cm x 48cm

Oval cushion

Knotted cushion

sew an oval
cushion

Download the templates


from www.sewmag.co.uk
and print out. Use folded paper
to draw two full oval shapes:
one outer, one inner. Use the
outer oval template to cut two
shapes from blue Polka dot
fabric, adding a 1cm seam
allowance. Use the inner oval
template to cut one piece from
Shamrock material.
Iron fusible webbing onto
the wrong side of the inner
oval. Neaten the edges with zig
zag or overlock stitch. Pin it to
the centre of the outer cushion
with pom pom ribbon over the
edge; topstitch to secure them
into place.
Lay the front and back of
the cushion wrong sides
facing and stitch together with
a 1cm seam allowance, leaving
10cm open for turning. Turn
out and stuff loosely. Sew the
gap closed.
Unfold bias binding and
pin it right sides facing on
the outer edges of the oval.
Stitch securely along the
crease all the way around.
Then fold the binding over to
the other side, enclosing the
cushion edge, pin and sew.
Pin bobbin lace over the seam
and stitch in place.
Cover a button with teapot
fabric according to the
manufacturers instructions.
Fold strips of net lace in half
lengthways, gather the open
edges with hand stitches and
draw them tightly together.
Knot the threads. Stitch the
net lace in the centre of the

Rose cushion

82

sewmag.co.uk

HOME &
INTERIORS

MAKE IT...
with floral
prints

cushion by hand. Place the


covered button on top in the
centre, and sew it securely in
place with a small button as a
stay button on the back of the
cushion, through all the layers.

Make
&Do

SHOP
FOR...

Make more cushions from


coordinating fabrics using
an assortment of trims
such as velvet ribbon
and cotton cord.

essentials
Fabric: Ring a Roses by
Gtermann, Summer Loft
range, Ornament, blue,
40cm; Teapot, blue, 30cm;
Meander, green, 70cm
Thread, sew-all,
coordinating
Ribbon, satin, light green,
5mm wide, 150cm
Lace, bobbin, pale pink,
1.5cm wide, 120cm
Interfacing, fusible, 30cm
x 90cm
Cushion pad, 30cm square

Rose
Rose is a kitsch floral
print on a ditsy polka dot
background.

DIMENSIONS:
50cm square

make a knotted
cushion

For the cushion front, cut a


37cm square from blue
Ornament fabric. Cut two 31cm
x 37cm pieces for the back. Cut
a 27cm square from blue
Teapot fabric and iron fusible
interfacing to the reverse.
Neaten the edges with overlock
or zig zag stitch. Topstitch the
outlines of the teapots with
straight stitch. Pin the piece
with the teapots centrally on
the cushion front and sew
all around, 5mm from the edge.
Lay pale pink lace along
the edge of the teapot
centrepiece and pin so that it
hides the edge beneath. Place
the lace in small folds at the
corners. Pin satin ribbon over
the top of the lace edge,
starting from the lower right
corner, leaving the ends
projecting an equal distance.
Make sure the corners slant by
folding the ribbon at a 45o
angle around the corner.
Secure the satin ribbon and
lace with a topstitch. Tie the
satin ribbon in a bow, cutting
off the ends to equal lengths.
On each long edge of the
cushion backs, press a 1cm
hem and stitch down close to
the edge. Pin the back pieces
right side facing to the front

with raw edges aligned. Stitch


all around with a 1cm seam,
allowance. Press, then turn the
cushion to the right side
through the closure. Ease the
edges into shape and press.
For the ties, cut four 18cm
x 92cm strips from green
Meander fabric. Fold them in
half lengthways, right sides
together, and mark
a 45o angle at each end. Stitch
the ties starting from the
centre of the long edges leaving
a 6cm gap for turning. Trim
seam allowances and clip the
corners. Press and turn out.
Pin the ties 5mm from the
outer edges of the cushion
from corner to corner and tack,
leaving the ends projecting at
equal lengths. Stitch on the
right side, at the same time
sewing the turning gap closed.
Loosely knot the ties at
the corners.

essentials
Fabric: Ring a Roses by
Gtermann, Summer Loft
range, Rose, pink and white,
55cm; Ornament, green,
55cm
Thread, sew-all,
coordinating
Bias binding, pale pink,
110cm
Lace, bobbin, pale pink,

1cm wide, 110cm


Fibre filling
DIMENSIONS:
50cm square

create a rose cushion

For the outer cushion cut 52cm x 104cm of


Rose fabric. From green Ornament fabric, cut
52cm x 102cm for the inner. Cut four ties each
measuring 6cm x 42cm. Fold the ties in half
lengthways right sides facing and stitch 1cm
along the long edge, sewing one end to taper at an
angle. Trim the seam allowances and clip the
corners at an angle. Turn out and press.
Pin the ties onto the right side of the cushion
outer short edges, 16cm down from the
corners. Unfold bias binding and pin it right side
down over the ties and stitch in the fold along
the seam line. Then lay the bias binding, with
the seam allowance folded in, around the edge
and pin. Iron, then stitch on the right side close
to the edge.
Fold the short sides with the bias binding
to a width of 3.5cm on the wrong side and
press. Slide bobbin lace beneath the ironed
edge and stitch securing the lace and the ties
to the fold.
Fold the cushion cover in half right sides
together and stitch 1cm from the side edges.
Turn out and press. Next, fold the inner cushion
piece in half widthways with right sides
together, stitch all around 1cm from the edges,
leaving a 10cm gap for turning. Press and turn
out. Stuff with fibre filling and sew the gap
closed. Place the cushion in the cover and
secure the ties.

Shamrock
Mix it up with Shamrock,
a geometric repeat
available in three
colourways.

Flower
Keep it simple with
Flower, a circular
design reminiscent
of daisy heads.

These lovely cushions are


made using Gtermanns
Ring a Roses Summer Loft
range. For stockists email
Gutermann@stockist
enquiries.co.uk or call
01453 883581.

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83

JANUARY SALE
TRY SOMETHING NEW TODAY
3 issues
of any
magazine
from just
6*!
From knitting
to gardening
to cookery,
theres
something for
everyone!

Visit our
website
below to
see our
full range

8 aceville.com/jan14

( 0844 844 0381 QUOTE JAN14


Lines are open Monday-Friday 8am-8pm, Saturday 9am-1pm

*Terms and Conditions apply, see online for full details. This is a limited offer and may be withdrawn at anytime

HOME &
INTERIORS

Show off your

embroidery skills
with Lillie Cockrells

cat plush
Add a quirky touch to your sofa with this
adorable feline cushion. Decorated
with an array of embroidery stitches, this is
a great opportunity to practise and
experiment with stitching. This
cushion is easy to make and the difficulty
of the embroidery design is up to you,
so you can make it as simple or
intricate as you like.

Download
TEMPLATES
ONLINE

turn
over for
more!
Join the worlds busiest online craft community today! busymitts.com

85

WHAT
TO BUY...

STITCH IT...
with colourful
embroidery

Embroidery thread
Experiment with different
colours to make your
embroidery interesting
and dynamic. Use strong,
good quality thread to
ensure a pleasing finish.
Priced 68p per skein,
www.willowfabrics.com,
0800 056 7811.

essentials
Fabric, wool, grey,
40cm x 60cm
Needle, embroidery; sewing
Thread, embroidery,
assorted colours
Embroidery hoop
Fibre filling
Buttons, two

Rough red
Lillie has used a grey,
wool fabric. For a
colourful alternative, why
not try this red by
Basicgrey for Moda.
Priced 12.40 per metre,
www.thefabricloft.co.uk,
07791 639896.

DIMENSIONS:
20cm x 31cm

make a cat plush

Go to www.sewmag
.co.uk, download the
template and print out.
Transfer to a piece of fabric
measuring at least 20cm
x 30cm, and place in an
embroidery hoop. Using two
strands of embroidery thread
throughout and working away
from the edge, begin by sewing
around the whole outline of the
cat in running stitch, using
orange thread.
Continue with the face,
outlining the lower edge
in running stitch, using orange
thread, then fill in the
Sea shells
Use shell buttons to create triangular nose in satin stitch,
the glinting effect of a cats using black. Use back stitch for
eye. Try yellow or orange
the whiskers and mouth, and
for a realistic look, or
work French knots for the dots,
piercing blue for a pretty
also in black. Fill in the ear
kitty. Priced 15p each,
centres in satin stitch, using
www.totallybuttons.com,
01403 598014.
yellow, then outline these with
several rows of running stitch

86

sewmag.co.uk

in different colours, following


the triangular shape.
Using the remaining lines
of the design as guidelines,
experiment with your choice
of colours to add decorative
detail to the cat including a
tail. Use the photograph as a
guide: all the stitches used are
variants of running stitch,
sewn in straight lines, curves,
circles, spirals and zig zags,
with straight stitches
radiating out from some of
the circles. Then sew two
buttons in place as eyes.
When the embroidery is
finished, remove from
the hoop and press the work
lightly on the reverse. Then pin
it, wrong side up, to another
piece of the same fabric and
cut out, going through both
thicknesses, 1.5cm outside the
running stitch outline.
Stitch the two pieces
together with a 1.2cm
seam, leaving a gap of 5cm in
one of the straight sides for
turning. Snip into the seam
allowance on all the curved
edges, taking care not to cut
through the stitching, then
turn right side out. Fill the
cushion with stuffing, then
turn in the seam allowance
on the open edges and sew
closed using slip stitch.

On the high street


Create a whole menagerie
of friends for your little
cat with these cuties.

Organic blue whale stuffie, 10,


www.verynicethings.co.uk

Sleeping fox
cushion, 15.99,
www.clothears.co.uk

Plum & Ashby


Bertie cushion, 25,
www.cotswold
trading.com

Monochrome owl
cushion, 14.99,
www.oakroomshop.co.uk

SEW
KIDS

Download
TEMPLATES
ONLINE

Make your little one smile with


Ellen Kharades

yo yo bag
This eye-catching bag would make a
great birthday gift for any little girl. Its
practical and pretty, made from sturdy
corduroy fabric with handy side pockets,
and decorated with ric rac and yo yo flowers.
The bag is lined in cute pink and white
gingham and the black handles give it a
sophisticated look. It has been designed in
an attractive basket shape with a round
bottom so it can hold a hostof goodies.

essentials
Fabric: corduroy, red,
50cm x 65cm; pink, 15cm
square; gingham, pink and
white, 50cm x 65cm;
cotton, red, 30cm square;
cotton, assorted red
and pink prints, 15cm
square, seven
Felt, pink, scraps
Buttons, vintage, white,
assorted sizes, seven
Ric rac, assorted shades of
pink, 20cm of each
Ribbon, pink, 26cm
Bag handles, black, acrylic
Fusible webbing
Clover yo yo maker,
extra large
DIMENSIONS:
25cm x 30cm

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87

Place the pocket piece behind one angled


edge on the front of the bag, aligning it with
the top and sides of the bag and pin into place.
Measure 1cm in from the ribbon trim at the top
and the side of the bag. Go vertically down from
the top point and horizontally from the side
point until these lines meet. You should have
created a right angle. Mark this on the bag with
a fabric pen or pencil, then topstitch the right
angle incorporating the pocket piece beneath as
you sew. Make and insert the other pocket piece
in the same way.
Arrange the yo yos across the bag as shown.
Place and pin ric rac beneath to make
flower stems, trimming it to size. Move the
yo yos to one side and machine stitch the ric rac
into place. Iron fusible webbing onto a scrap of
pink felt and cut out four leaf shapes. Position
the leaves on the front of the bag and press to
secure, then machine stitch around them
using coordinating thread. Put the yo yos
back in place, pin and hand sew with small
slip stitches around each one. Sew white
buttons to the centre of each.
With right sides facing, pin the sides of the
front and back pieces together and machine
stitch into place. Pin the base of the bag in place
and machine stitch. Press all seams open.
Repeat with the lining pieces, making sure that
it fits well. Press all seams open. Press down a
2cm hem at the open edge of the bag and the
lining and put to one side.
To make the handle tabs cut a 3.5cm x 32cm
strip of red corduroy fabric. Fold and press
down 1cm on both long sides and then fold
in the middle for the sides to meet. Pin and
machine stitch up the length. Cut this into four
8cm sections. Thread the tabs through bag
handles and pin to the top of the bag and
machine stitch into place. Push the lining
into the bag, matching up the side seams as
you do so and pin, then hand sew the lining
into the bag using neat whip stitches.

stitch a yo yo bag

SHOP
FOR...

Go to www.sewmag.co.uk,
download the templates
and print out. Create seven
yo yos from assorted red and
pink prints, and put to one side.
Cut the front, back and base
shapes from red corduroy
fabric. Then cut out two
backs and one base shape
from pink and white gingham
for the lining.
At one angled edge on the
top of the bag front, turn
over a 1cm hem and machine
stitch. Pin pink ribbon trim
across the angled edge and sew
into place, trimming the ends

Yo-yo maker
Using a yo yo maker means
that this make is quick and
easy. They come in a range
of sizes so you can make
big or small ones. Ellen used
the extra large model from
Clover. Priced 4.30,
www.quiltdirect.co.uk,
01822 810877.

of the ribbon to size. Cut out


two triangular shapes using the
template, one from pink
corduroy and one from red
cotton. With right sides facing,
attach the two together by
pinning the long edges together
and machine stitching into
place, so you end up with a
rough square shape. Cut out
a piece of red cotton the same
size. With wrong sides facing,
pin the two pieces together
and machine stitch around
the outer edges to hold the
fabrics together and create
the pocket piece.

Make your own... yo yos

88

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Draw circles
onto the wrong
side of a piece of
fabric, using a
template such as a
glass. Note that
the finished yo yo
will be roughly
half the size of the
circle. Cut out.
Sew a running
stitch around
the edge of the
circle using
coordinating
thread.
When you
reach the start
of your stitches,
pull on the thread
to gather the
circle. Continue
until the edges
of the circle meet
one another in
the middle.

Bag handles
Keep your bag sturdy and
practical with strong
handles. These shiny black
ones add a sophisticated
touch. Priced 4.85,
www.bag-clasps.co.uk,
01253 590188.

Find this and other handy tutorials at


www.georginagiles.co.uk. Check out Georginas online
shop at www.etsy.com/shop/georginagiles

Adjust the
yo yo so that
it lies flat and the
fabric is evenly
distributed around
the circle. Once
you are happy
with the overall
shape, work a few
stitches across the
middle, from one
side of the fabric
to the other, so
that the shape
stays put.
Stitch a button
into place in the
middle of your
gathered circle,
using the thread
that is still
attached to your
work. This will
make your finished
yo yo both strong
and neat.

SEW
KIDS

Little ones can learn and play


with Sandra Hamiltons

Download
TEMPLATES
ONLINE

baby
stacking
rings
Stacking rings are a classic
toy for toddlers and what
little one could resist this
rosy-cheeked bunny,
poking its head out of a
colourful burrow? These
doughnut-shaped rings
are a great way of busting
your stash using an array
of jolly fabrics.

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89

essentials
Fabric, cotton: printed,
25cm, four; 35cm, one;
plain, yellow, 10cm
Interfacing: lightweight,
1m; heavy, 25cm
Thread, embroidery
Toy stuffing
Cotton bud
Blush (for cheeks)
DIMENSIONS:
22cm x 36cm

sew baby
stacking rings

Download the templates


from www.sewmag.co.uk
and print. Use them to cut out
two of each ring from fabric

and lightweight interfacing.


Tack the interfacing to the
wrong sides of the rings and
using a light box or window,
mark the inner circle, both
circular lines of stitching
(indicated by the dotted line),
crosses and notches on
the interfacing.
Cut out the small circle
in the centre of each ring,
then clip out to the stitching
line around it. Make cuts
approximately 1cm apart
around the outside of each
ring, down to the stitching line.
Cut out the inner gussets
for each ring. Mark the

2
3

crosses. With right sides


together, fold each gusset in
half and sew into a ring with a
1cm seam allowance. Clip both
edges approximately 1cm apart
and 1cm deep. Turn right side
out. Repeat for the outer
gussets, marking the notches.
With right sides facing,
slide the inner gusset, into
the hole in the centre of a ring,
aligning the crosses on both
sides. Pin and tack so the
gusset sits evenly inside the
ring, then sew together using
small back stitches. Fold over
1cm on the unsewn edge of the
inner gusset and tack.

These rings may seem a bit tricky at first, so you may


want to have a practice go. If your toddler prefers a
different animal topper, this head is fairly adaptable
- just change the ears!
Sandra Hamilton, Sew designer

90

sewmag.co.uk

With right sides facing, and aligning the


marks and notches, pin and tack the outer
gusset to the ring. Sew all the way around. Pin,
tack and sew the remaining ring to the other
edge of the outer gusset. Fold in the clipped
centre circle and tack. Turn the fabric right
side out. You should have a drum shape with a
chimney on top.
Stuff the drum through the small centre
hole, pushing the filling out to the sides to
create a smooth, rounded shape. When the
drum is almost completely stuffed, poke your
finger through the centre of the filling to allow
the inner gusset to be pulled through the
middle of the drum. Pin the two tacked edges
together, ensuring the inner gusset is not
twisted, and slip stitch closed. Repeat for the
other rings.

SEW
KIDS

MAKE IT...
in fun
prints

SHOP
FOR...

Cute fabric
Sandra used a range
of colourful cottons to make
our rings. Kids are sure to
love this Creative Thursday
Float Away print featuring
adorable bunnies and
balloons, priced 2.99 per
fat quarter,
www.seamstar.co.uk,
01829 770733.

Alphabet print

HOT TIP

Letterpress: Mint by Patty


Young, 3 per fat quarter,
www.backstitch.co.uk

make a base

Cut out the pole template


from collar stiffening fabric
or heavyweight interfacing, and
printed cotton fabric. Fold the
fabric over the top and sides of
the interfacing, smooth, pin
and sew 1cm from the edge.
Fold the edge of the fabric
covered interfacing over to
form a narrow cone and whip
stitch in place. Sew the top shut
and stuff well. Fold the fabric at
the bottom of the pole under
1cm, then make long stitches
to gather. Pull tight and stitch

closed. If desired, sew the pole


to the largest ring to create
a base.

create a
bunny topper

Cut out the pieces for the


bunnys head using the
templates provided. Centre the
inner ear pieces on the right
sides of the ears, then sew in
place using zig zag or
buttonhole stitch. With right
sides facing, sew around the ear
pieces leaving the bottom plus
2cm open, and turn right side

out. Fold the edges at the


bottom of the ears over each
other and stitch down.
With right sides facing, pin
the curved edges of the
back of the bunnys head
together, and stitch. With right
sides facing, pin the gusset
from the tip of the nose to the
top of the face on both sides,
and sew. Then, pin and sew the
face pieces together from the
tip of the nose down to the
bottom of the neck.
Place the front of the
ears against the face so

10

Why not
add extra
embellishments
by sewing
loops of ribbon
into the seams
of the rings?

that the stitches securing the fold over at the


base of the ears are above the top of the head.
Place the back of the head, right side down, over
the face and ears, aligning the edges. Pin and sew.
Turn the bunny head right side out, stuff, but
leave a space the size of your thumb for the pole
to fit snugly into the head. Fold under the neck
edge by 1cm, make long stitches close to the
folded edge, pull together and stitch closed. Push
the neck fabric up inside the bunny head.
Using the images as a guide, embroider a
triangular shaped nose in the base of the
gusset, a smile and star spoked eyes. Using a
cotton bud, pick up a very small amount of
powdered blush, and gently rub it in a circular
motion onto the bunnys cheeks.

11

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91

MORE
THAN

1,200
WORTH
OF PRIZES!

giveaways
Enter now for your chance
to win these amazing prizes!

Craft show

PAINT
YOUR OWN
FABRIC

The Creative Crafts Show heads to Belfast from 10th to 12th


April offering supplies, workshops, make and takes,
demonstrations and more. As well as sewing, cross stitching
and quilting, there will also be a whole host of other crafts on
offer too. We love the idea of learning how to fuse fabrics,
as seen below.
There are 10 pairs of tickets on offer, worth 16 per pair.
To enter, tick CRAFT. To find out more about the
Creative Craft Shows taking place across the UK,
visit www.sccshows.co.uk or call 01822 614671.

BELFAST
EXHIBITION

Fabric paint
Colouricious is the only stockist of these fantastic fabric paints. They have
a really long shelf life, theyre water-based so they wont clog up any
stamps and are easily washable, heat fixable, and are just the right
consistency. Theres a great selection of colours and finishes on offer too.
We have three sets up for grabs for three lucky winners. Win either the
Rainbow, Metallic or Scrumptious version, priced at 32 each. To be in
with a chance, tick the PAINT box. Visit www.colouricious.com or
call 01494 721471 for more exciting products, as well as sewing holidays.

Stitch it

Polymer clay

Running from 28th February to 2nd March, Knit & Stitch It is


not to be missed. Needle crafters can enjoy a dedicated
exhibition showcasing all aspects of needlecraft,
stitch craft and wool craft all under one roof in
Farnborough, Hampshire.
STITCHING
We have five pairs of tickets to give away,
EXHIBITION
worth 24 for the pair. To win, tick the STITCH
box. Visit www.knitandstitch-it.org.uk to see
whos exhibiting.

FIMO Classic workshop boxes


contain everything you need to
master one of six different
polymer clay techniques.
They include four blocks of
FIMO Classic; the ovenhardening polymer clay
preferred by professional and
advanced users. Just follow
the instructions to master an
advanced modelling technique
and create a lasting work of art.
There are six boxes in the series
Kaleidoscope, Paisley, Blending,
Millefiori, Mokume Nendo
and Geometrics.
We have 10 boxes to give
away to 10 winners, worth 11.95
each. To enter, tick the FIMO
box. For more details about the
FIMO range and to find your
nearest stockist,
visit www.staedtler.com,
01656 778668.

92

sewmag.co.uk

TRY
SOMETHING
NEW

WORTH

749!

l Extra needle

penetration power
l Jam-proof drop-in

bobbin system
l Stop/start button

no need to use foot control


l Seven-piece feed dogs for

superb fabric control

Powerful machine

l Stitch elongation up

The Elna 660EX is a fantastic sewing machine for quilts or accessories for the home, as well
as everyday projects. Designed with ease of use in mind, this model is just great for those bigger
projects because its supplied with an ergonomically-shaped extension table, which lets the
fabric flow freely when sewing. Featuring 200 stitches including 12 styles for automatic
one-step buttonholes, this machine allows you to truly personalise your sewing style.
We have one Elna 660EX to give away, worth 749. To win, tick the ELNA box below.
For more details, visit www.elna.com or call 0161 666 6011.

just tick
the boxes!

CRAFT

PAINT

To enter our giveaways, just tick the box


that corresponds with the prizes you want
to win and send your entry to us, to arrive
no later than 14.02.2014. Mark your
envelope: Sew February Giveaways,
PO Box 443, Ipswich, Suffolk, IP2 8WG.

STITCH

FIMO

ELNA

Only one entry per household please.


This competition is open to all UK residents aged 18 or over, excluding employees or agents of the
associated companies and their families. One entry per person. The prizes detailed in each competition
cannot be exchanged for goods, or towards the purchase of goods at any retail outlet. Entries must be
on the coupon provided. It cannot be exchanged for cash, or replaced if lost or damaged. Illegible
entries and those that do not abide by these terms and conditions will be disqualified. Prizes must be
taken as stated and cannot be deferred. The decision of the judge is final and no correspondence will
be entered into. CLOSING DATE 14.02.2014 Winners will be notified after the cover dated month, a list
of winners will be available in writing on request from Andrea Turner, 21/23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins
Road, Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY.
Data Protection
Your details will be processed by Aceville Publications Ltd (publishers of Sew) in full accordance
with data protection legislation. All entries become the property of Aceville Publications Ltd,
publishers of Sew. Aceville Publications Ltd and sister companies may wish to contact you with
information of other services and publications we provide which may be of interest. Please tick here
if you DO NOT wish to receive such information by Post
Phone
Email
SMS
. From time
to time Aceville Publications Limited will share details with other reputable companies who provide
products and services that may be of interest to you. Please tick here if you DO NOT wish to receive
such information by Post
Phone
Email
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.

to five times standard


l Feed dogs drop for

free motion sewing


l Dual measurements

on needle plate
l Three storage areas

What appealed to you most in this months Sew?


The FREE pattern The Simplicity offer
The Home section
Other ...............................................................................................................
What would you like to see more of in Sew?
Dressmaking Fashion
Home accessories
Gift ideas Childrens makes Novelty ideas
Other ...............................................................................................................
Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms/Other................................................................................
Name.....................................................................................................................
Address................................................................................................................
................................................................Postcode.............................................
Daytime telephone........................................................................................
Mobile number.................................................................................................
Email................................................................Date of birth.......................

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93

COMING NEXT MONTH IN

Simplicity toy pattern,


The Great British
Sewing Bee pencil skirt
download, plus home
and style updates for
you and the family

British
t
a
e
r
G
e
h
FREE! T
Sewing Bee Pencil Skirt Pattern

Stitch a
pencil
skirt
Make up
in tweed

Limite
Editiond
Down
load!

PLUS
Embellish
cute pumps

Upholster
a cat bed
94

sewmag.co.uk

Stitch pretty
bathroom storage

YOUR

FREE

PATTERN!

NEXT
MONTH...

CREATE
CUTE
WOODLAND
ANIMALS

FREE
PATTERN!

Owl

Bunny

f
o
e
u
s
s
i
h
c
r
Ma
Sew on sale 14th February
Why not take up a trial of
Sew with 3 issues for just 6!*
Go to www.sewmag.co.uk/SEW14T

Raccoon & Deer


sewmag.co.uk

95

Contents subject to change

Fox

Collect&Keep
Cross Stitch
Library
With Valentines Day fast approaching, its
important to find the perfect, thoughtful gift. A
piece of stitching youve put your heart and soul
into is the ideal solution and will be treasured by
your loved one for years to come. Weve also included
some inspirational messages, which would be
great hanging on the wall as a daily reminder to
smile and be happy.

Download
TEMPLATES
ONLINE

96

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sew kids

the essentials
Start sewing today with these basic stitches and techniques

Stitch terms
OUR HANDY GUIDE TO
THE TECHNICAL
ASPECTS OF SEWING
APPLIQU: A decorative

technique with one piece


of fabric stitched on top
of another.
BACK STITCH: A hand
stitch made by inserting
the needle at the mid-point
of a preceeding stitch so
that the stitches overlap
by half lengths. A strong
stitch used for outlining
and seams.
BACK TACK: Set the
machine to reverse and
work back over a couple
of stitches to secure.
BIAS BINDING: Narrow
strips of fabric cut on the
bias and used to create
neat finishes to hems
and edgings.

BOBBIN: Removable spool

RAW EDGE: The cut edge

underneath the needle plate


on a sewing machine where
the lower thread is wound.
DART: A tapered fold used
to give garments shape
around the bodys contours.
GRAIN: The lengthways and
crossways directions of the
threads in a fabric.

of fabric. This can be


finished with zig zag
machine stitch to
prevent fraying.
REVERSE STITCH: A
sewing machine setting
that allows you to work
back over a row of stitches
to secure.
RIGHT SIDE: This is the
side of the fabric that will
be on show when the
project is completed.
When given the
instruction right sides
facing, place the fabric
right sides together.

HEM & SEAM


ALLOWANCE: Amount of

fabric allowed for turning to


make a hem or seam.
INTERFACING: Fabric placed
between the main materials
to give an item structure. It
comes in a range of weights.
PLEAT: Even folds of fabric
stitched to create shaping
or for decoration.
PRESSER FOOT: Part
of the sewing machine
that is lowered over the
fabric to hold in place
while stitching.

Shopping list
Keep these essential tools
handy in your sewing kit
Dressmaking shears
Embroidery scissors
Pins
Various sized needles
A selection of threads
Tape measure
Tailor's chalk
Seam ripper

SELF-LINED FABRIC:

Using the same material


as a lining.
SELVEDGE: The finished
edges of woven fabrics.
STAY STITCH: Straight
machine stitch worked
just inside a seam
allowance to strengthen
it and prevent fraying.
TACKING STITCH: A hand
sewn temporary stitch
used to hold fabrics
together, or as a guide
before stitching.
TOPSTITCH: A machine
straight stitch used on
the right side of an item.
Often used in contrasting
colour for decorative
effect.
WARP: The lengthways
threads on woven fabrics,
the edges of which form
the selvedge.
WEFT: The widthways
threads that run across the
warp on a woven fabric.
WRONG SIDE: The reverse
side of the fabric, which
will be the inside of the
completed garment
or project.
YOKE: The top section
of a garment from which
the rest of the skirt, or
dress hangs.

HOW TO...
TRANSFER A MOTIF
Method one
Trace or photocopy the pattern
sheet onto thin layout paper or
typing paper. Turn the paper over
and work over the design with a
transfer pen or pencil. Position the
motif on your fabric and press with
a hot, dry iron (no steam) for
about 10 seconds, until the design
has transferred.
Method two
Trace or photocopy the motif from
the pattern sheet onto paper (any
type). Tape the paper to a light box or
window pane. Position the fabric right
side up on the design and tape edges
to prevent it moving, then trace the
design onto the fabric using an
erasable pen or pencil.

ZIG ZAG STITCH:

A machine stitch used to


secure raw edges of fabric
and for decoration, used
in a variety of sizes.

turn
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sewmag.co.uk

97

in stitches

BLANKET STITCH
Also known as buttonhole stitch, used for reinforcing the
edge of thick materials

Thread facts

You should select a thread that meets your specific sewing needs.
Your fabric will have an influence on the type of thread you select.
As a rule the fibre content of your thread should be the
same or similar to the fabric.
Heavyweight fabrics require a thicker thread and
lightweight versions require a finer thread. Very
lightweight or sheer fabrics are best sewn with a very
fine needle and an extra fine thread.
Using the correct thread thickness may help
reduce puckering, a problem frequently encountered
when sewing lightweight fabrics.
Dont forget to consider the care requirements of
your thread choice. They should be compatible with the
fabric care recommendations.

Moving back along the


stitching line, take the
needle down through the same
hole as the previous thread.
Bring it to the surface for the
end position of the stitch.
Repeat along the sewing line
to create even stitches.

SATIN STITCH

This decorative stitch requires parallel lines of thread to make a


design. These can be worked horizontally, vertically or at an angle

Start with the secure end on the


wrong side of the work. Pull the
needle through to the surface on the
base of the outline to be filled. Take
the needle to the outline on the
opposite side and push the needle
back through
to form a long,
straight stitch.

Satin stitch is
ideal for filling
in shapes

Take the needle down next to


the end of the first stitch and
under the work, bringing it back
through at the start of the
previous stitch, forming a parallel
line of thread. Repeat this process
until the desired area is filled.

98

sewmag.co.uk

through to adjust so that the


stitch lies along the edge of
the fabric.
Repeat to create evenly
spaced stitches along the
fabric edge, maintain an even
tension to avoid distorting
the fabric.

Small stitches used for hemming or sewing up projects after stuffing

Strong hand stitches with a neat finish

Secure the thread and working


along the edge, bring the
needle to the surface of the fabric.
Take the needle through from
the back of the fabric to the
surface on the stitching line.
Loop the end of the thread
under the needle and pull

SLIP STITCH

BACK STITCH

Secure the thread on the


wrong side of the fabric and
bring the needle through to the
surface to start the first stitch.
Move a stitch length backwards
along the sewing line, take the
needle back through the fabric,
then bring it to the surface at
the end position of this stitch.

1
2

Working on the fold in the


fabric, secure the thread with
a double stitch. Pick up two
threads of the fabric with the
needle tip, then slip the needle
through the fold of the hem.
Bring the needle out 5mm
along, then pick up two

more threads of fabric before


returning through the fold of
the hem.
Pull the thread lightly as
you work to tighten the
stitches, being careful not to
distort the fabric which makes
the stitches visible.

COUCHING
A decorative stitch where a thicker thread is positioned on
fabric and a thinner thread is stitched over it to hold it in place

Secure the thread at the back of the work and bring the
needle up to the surface at the start of the design. Place a
thread or cord along the sewing line and take the needle over
it and down through the fabric on the other side.
Continue making stitches over the cord to secure in place
along the length.

STEM STITCH

Diagonal stitches that create textured outlines

Working from left to right, bring the


needle up to the surface of the sewing
line to start. Take the needle down, a stitch
width to the right. Bring it up half way

along and above the previous stitch.


Make another stitch to the right,
bringing the needle back up above
the previous stitch as before.

Continue working in this


way along the stitching
line to create a line of
diagonal stitches.

FRENCH KNOTS

RUNNING STITCH

These are raised stitches formed


into little knots

A simple row of stitches that


creates a dotted line of thread

Bring the thread to the surface


at the position for the knot.
Wrap the thread around the
needle tip twice and take the
needle back through the fabric
where it came up.

Secure the thread on the


wrong side of the fabric, then
bring the needle through to the
surface to start the first stitch.
Moving forward, take the
needle back down through
the fabric and then bring it up
again. Keep the distance
between the gaps and the
stitches the same size and
continue along the stitching line.

Ease the knot onto the


surface of the fabric, holding
it steady while pulling the
needle through to the wrong
side. Stitch to secure or return
to the surface for the next
French knot.

CHAIN STITCH

Create chain like stitches


to add dimension to an
embroidered line

Take the needle


back down,
close to where it
came up through
the loop and bring
it back up at
the end position
of the next stitch.

3
1

Bring the needle to the surface


at the start of the sewing line.
Take it back down very close to
where it came up, then return it
to the surface at the end position
of the first stitch.

Continue
working along
the stitching line,
repeating the steps
to create a chain of
links. Finish by
catching the final
loop with a small
stitch to secure.

SPLIT STITCH
A simple stitch used to fill shapes
or emroider lines
Secure embroidery thread on the wrong side
of the fabric, then bring the needle through
to the surface. Take it back down about 1mm to
2mm ahead to complete the first stitch.
Bring the needle to the surface again
through the centre of this stitch and come
down as before. Repeat to create an outline
of stitching.

sewmag.co.uk

99

pattern perfection
Follow this guide to working your way around a

dressmaking pattern

Most commercial
patterns are printed on
dressmakers tissue paper
and have cutting marks for
more than one size. Each
size is identified by a
different style of marking
for the cutting line. When
only one line is visible this
indicates that this is a
common cut line for
all sizes.

choose to do this before


you cut the individual
pieces required and iron the
entire sheet as a whole, or
after they have been cut.
Unfold the tissue paper
and with an iron on its
coolest setting taking care
not to burn the paper
gently smooth out the
creases, so that all the folds
are pressed flat.

Many patterns are


available with a series of
variations on a garment,
which allows you to select
different elements to suit
your style. These are
indicated on the pattern,
with alteration lines for
different lengths.

By ironing them you will


ensure that the pieces lie
flush with the fabrics when
pinned and will result in
cleaner, sharper lines when
cutting. The thin tissue can
be ironed on a cool to
medium setting if in
doubt, press a blank section
of the paper first.

FABRIC
PREPARATION
It is advisable to launder

the fabric, as you would


the completed item,
before you start cutting.
This ensures that you will
know how the fabric
reacts and reduces the
possibility of shrinkage in
the completed garment.
Press the fabric with an
iron on a suitable setting,
and lay out in a large
space ready for pinning
the pattern pieces to it.
Fabric is usually folded
selvedge to selvedge.
With the material folded,
the pattern is pinned to
the top. Once cut, the
opened fabric will be
twice the size of the paper
pattern piece. If your
fabric is patterned it is
advisable to place the
design outermost so that
you can lay the pieces in
a pleasing manner to suit
the printed motif.

PLACING
PATTERN PIECES
Place the pattern on the

fabric with the printed


tissue side uppermost,

some pieces will need to be


placed on the fold, this is
indicated on each specific part.
The tissue paper used for
dressmaking patterns means
that you can see through to the
design of the fabrics. This is
essential when working with
patterned materials, allowing
you to adjust the placement of
the pieces to ensure continuity
in the motif can be achieved
over joins in the garment pieces.
The To fold symbol means
that the piece should be placed
to the folded edge of the fabric
for pinning. This will create both
sides when the cut piece is
opened, for example two sides
of a top will be cut at once.
The other pieces should be
placed on the fabric with the
grain arrow running parallel to
the selvedge. Measure the
distance from one end of the
arrow to the parallel selvedge,
repeat at the other end and
move the piece slightly until

sewmag.co.uk

ONLINE

to fold

cut on the fold

cut two

grain
grain

grain

selvedge
100

When you see this


symbol on a project, you
will need to log on to
www.sewmag.co.uk
to download and
print your free
patterns and
Download
TEMPLATES
templates.

fold

PATTERN
PREPARATION

In addition to starting
with your fabrics
laundered and pressed, it
is also advisable to press
out your paper pattern
pieces. You can either

both the measurements are the


same. Once you are happy with
the finalised placement, pin
carefully in place using as many
pins as is necessary to secure.
Most patterns offer a layout
guide for the placement of the
pieces onto the fabric (see
below). This ensures that you
lay out the pieces in the most
efficient manner for cutting with
the least wastage of fabric.

symbol
savvy

We demistify the markings


on paper patterns
GRAIN LINES

The double
pointed arrow
indicating the
placement of the
pattern piece on
the fabric. Ensure
that the line of
the arrow runs
parallel to the
lengthwise grain
of the material.

BACK BODICE

CUTTING LINES

Multi-sized patterns
feature a series of
different cutting
lines, one for
each size.

Includes 1.5cm seam allowance


Cut two in fabric
Cut two in lining
Dress A & B
Top C

NOTCHES

The symbols to
help you accurately
match seams.
All pieces that
require joining will
have corresponding
notches.

FOLD LINES

WRITTEN
INSTRUCTIONS

This arrow
indicates the
placement of the
pattern piece on
the fold of the
material. Aligning
this to the fold
means you will
have a finished
cut piece twice
the size of the
paper pattern
without having
to add in a
joining seam.

This indicates which


garment from the
variations of design
that the pattern
piece corresponds
to. It also instructs
how many times you
need to cut the
piece from
the fabric.

5 FRONT BODICE

Includes 1.5cm seam allowance


and 1cm allowance for centre shaping

Centre front fold

Cut one on fold in fabric


Cut one on fold in lining
Dress A & B
Top C

DARTS

When cut and


sewn together,
darts shape your
garments to fit
the curves of
the body.

FABRIC KNOW-HOW
It is important to cut the
fabric on the correct grains
as this will produce finished
items that hang in a more
pleasing manner. Taking a
critical look at the
composition of the material
will help you to ascertain the
best techniques to use.
BIAS: The bias grain is the
diagonal line running 45 to the
warp and the weft of the fabric.
Cutting garments on the bias
creates a finished piece that
follows the contours of the body.

SELVEDGE: These are the


non-fraying, woven edges that
run parallel to the warp grain.
WARP: These are the yarns
that run the length of the
fabric. They are stronger than
weft yarns and are less likely
to stretch.
WEFT: These run over and
under the warp yarns across
the fabric from selvedge to
selvedge. As these yarns
double back, they fix the
weave of the selvedge.
SELVEDGE

WEFT

BIAS

WARP

Clean cuts
ACCURATE CUTTING MAKES OR BREAKS YOUR PROJECT
ITS TRICKY TO PUT A WRONG CUT RIGHT. FOLLOWING
A FEW SIMPLE PRINCIPLES HELPS ENSURE THAT YOU GET
OUTSTANDING RESULTS EVERY TIME

Careful, smooth cuts around


the pattern pieces are what
you are trying to achieve. This
will help the pieces fit together
when you are making them up.
Always aim to cut on a flat,
smooth surface, and ensure
that the scissors you are using
are sharp. Use the full blade for
the long, straight edges and
work with smaller cuts around
the curves.
If you are right-handed,
place your left hand on the
pattern piece and fabric to keep
it secure. Holding the scissor
blades at right angles to the
fabric, begin cutting cleanly
around each section.

2
3

Reverse this if you are


left-handed.
You will sometimes be
faced with a pattern point
where the lines for a number of
sizes appear to merge. When
this happens, you should set
the outer point of the scissor
blade towards the line that you
want to end on. By carefully
working the blades shut
towards the final line you want
to achieve you will create a
smooth, clean cut that relates
to your size.
Repeat for all required
pattern pieces making sure
to take your time its better to
go slow than make a mistake.

sewmag.co.uk

101

and sew on

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SEW
COLUMN

THE BUSY BEE


Our new columnist, The Great British Sewing Bees
Lauren Guthrie, shares her tips on adjusting patterns

The great thing about making


your own clothes is that you can
create garments to perfectly fit
your body shape. Making
adjustments to sewing patterns, or
even existing clothes, honestly isnt
as scary as it may seem. The most
important thing when making your
own garments is to measure
yourself at the bust, waist and hips.
Whatever you do, dont just make
up the size you think you are! People
are different sizes in high street
shops and every pattern company
will label measurements with
different numbers. So it is
completely normal for your
measurements not to fit just one
size; they may even span three sizes!
Some independent pattern
companies tailor their designs
towards certain body shapes. But
that doesnt mean you cant make
those designs if you have a different
body shape. The style and how the
garment is constructed will affect
how easy it is to adjust the pattern.
For example, if its a simple shift
style top or dress, the adaptation
may be as simple as adjusting the
side seams to fit the contours of
your body. Sometimes alterations
may have to be more involved like a
small or large bust adjustment, but
there are lots of great tutorials
online that really break it down.
I would recommend practising on
some muslin or leftover fabric first
until you get the fit right.
Ive never made a garment
without making some sort of

so perfect for a chilly winter


when worn with some thick
tights and boots.
If youre not confident to go
chopping up a pattern yourself,
we are running several classes
at Guthrie & Ghani to help you out,
including drafting your own
pattern from a favourite garment,
drafting a custom top and skirt
block, plus we have a one-day
alteration workshop too.
I hope youre inspired to give
adapting a pattern a go. Weve all
made mistakes before, so dont
worry if it doesnt work out
perfectly first time, its always
worth it in the end...
Happy Sewing!

Lauren loves...
Style tip
I often wear a thin belt
right on my waistline to
break up a top or dress
and give more definition
to looser fitting clothes.

Victory Patterns
Chloe dress

Weve all made mistakes before, so dont worry


if it doesnt work out perfectly first time
adjustment. My most common
tweaks are shortening the length
of straps, taking in the side seam at
the hips, lowering a neckline, and
taking in the waist. Just bear
in mind that if you take in a
garment at the waist and it runs
into the armhole, this can then
affect how a sleeve would fit, so
youd need to increase the size of
the armhole.
One of my recent makes was the
Chloe dress by Victory Patterns.
The shaping of this is very
flattering as it has bust darts as
well as vertical princess seam lines,
giving the impression of height and
slenderness. It has pockets which
I love that are hidden in the front
seam lines and an invisible zip in

the centre back seam. I made up


the size 4 (watch out as the pattern
is from Canada so its sized the
North American way) and had to
take the side seams in at the hips
by a fraction, as well as shorten the
length of the dress by about 4cm.
Look out for the two lines that
show where to shorten and
lengthen the pattern as you are
cutting it out; its not always OK
to just take a chunk off the bottom
edge at the end as it can affect the
shape of the garment. I used a dark
navy wool and viscose mix fabric
and lined it with regular non-static
lining. I used an embroidered tulle
for the sleeves which is a contrast
to the wool, but Im so pleased with
how it turned out! Its super cosy;

Hobby (besides sewing)


I really enjoy running
I ran a marathon last year
and would love to do
another one!

Food and drink


I love Thai food and sushi,
and would never say no to
cake especially mint
choc chip.

Find out more visit www.guthrie-ghani.co.uk or follow me on Twitter @guthrieghani


106

sewmag.co.uk

Go ahead get creative!


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