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* chest = 91 cm

* full length = 38 cm
* Across back = 35 cm
* sleeve length = 25 cm
FRONT PART
* A - B = full length = 38 cm
* A-C = arm hole = (chest/4)-4 = (91-4)/4 = 18.7 cm
* C-D = chest loose = (chest/4)+2.5 = (91/4)+2.5 = 25.2 cm
* A-I = front part = chest/3 = 91/3 = 30.3cm
* A-E = shoulder = AB/2 = 35/2 = 17.5 cm
* A-F = Neck Breadth = (chest/12)+1.5 = 9 cm
* A-H = Front Neck = chest/8 = 11.3 cm
* K-B = patti part = full length-front part=7.7 cm
PATTI PART (K-B part in the above diagram)

* A-C = full length = 11 cm


* A-B = patti width
SLEEVE PART

* A-B = sleeve length = (chest/4)+2.5


* A-C = sleeve width = (chest/4)+2.5
* E-D = (chest/4-4)
Now let's see how to stitch the sari blouse. Before going to stitch the real material , we'll draw
the stitching pattern. I have used chart paper to draw the stitching pattern. If u want to stitch a

blouse of your size, take a sample blouse you already have and take the measurements using inch
tape. It is nessesary to draw stitching patterns for both front and back side .
BACK PART PATTERN

The curve on the right is the arm hole while the other curve is neck.
FRONT PART PATTERN

First draw a pattern same as the back side then from the top measure 12 inch and draw a straight
line. You can see a straight line drawn at a distance of 12 inch from the shoulder. The distance
can vary from 12 to 13 inch based on the breast size . A normal women can draw a line at
distance of 12" else 13".
Next measure 1/2 inch from the horizontal line and mark it. Likewise measure 1/2
inch above the horizontal line on both the extremes. Now as shown in the above
diagram draw a neat curve along the points . I've drawn the curve in blue colour.
Next step is to cut along the blue line like the one below. The image below shows
the front and the back part pattern together.

Front part is cut into 2 parts. In the first part we have to sewdarts then attach the
patti part(2nd part) to the front piece.

In the above image i've drawn the darts . Those are the places where you have to
sew darts.Now let's see how to sew darts using the cloth. Then take the material to
stitch blouse. Below is the material i have used. Fold the cloth to the exact breadth
size of the pattern once as shown in the figure . Then mark the edges with marking
chalk. Next carefully cut the edges without disturbing them. Make sure the neck
part is placed on the folded side.

After unfolding you can see both sides of the blouse.

Then 2 small darts have to stitched at the back part straight to the shoulders.Then
the main three darts have to be stitched carefully in the front part. Look at the
stitching pattern diagram above for the three main darts. The dart stitched at the
bottom should be bigger that the 2 darts at the left and right sides. Darts at the
back part and front part are stitched.
Next to the front part , the patti part has to be stitched. After stitching the three
main dots , the front part has to be stitched to the patti part. The patti part should
have the remaining length so that it equals the back part.

Now the patti part is stitched to the main part. See to that both back and front parts
are of same length. Then make sure you fold around the bottom line.

Next the front parts have to be joined to the back part. Just do that by stitching the
shoulders correctly.
Next sleeve part is cut and attached to the arm. There are 2 options to stitch sleeve,
you can join the sides then stitch the sleeve else you can stitch the sleeve and then

join the sides. It depends on your comfort level. To cut the sleeve use ur model
blouse for size. Just fold the cloth once and place the model sleeve on it, then draw
the shape and cut it.

After the sleeve part is stitched, the neck crosspeice has to be stitched and then
hooks have to be stitched. Finally we finish the complete blouse like this. Try and
send your feedback.

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