Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
Documenti di Cultura
, Unit-9
CONTENTS
PAGES
Acknowledgement
02
03
04
05
A. Departmental Study
4.0 Plant lay out
11
5.0 Merchandising
15
6.0 Sampling
18
7.0 Planning
21
24
29
36
11.0 Cutting
40
12.0 Embroidery
48
52
14.0 Washing
57
62
69
75
B. Style study
80
C. Appendixes
98
D. Project
116
18.0 Project I
Maintenance and machine movement database
117
19.0 Project II
Spare Register
132
153
21.0 Project IV
Efficiency Analysis
158
167
Page 1
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Our Internship at Shahi Exports Pvt. ltd., unit-09, Bengaluru was a fleeting journey of erudition
where we achieved an unparalleled blend of learning and experience. We would like to extend our
whole hearted thanks to the entire Shahi unit-9 Team for providing their immense support constantly.
Above all we would like to thank Mr. Sreedhar, General Manager
(Operations) and Mr. Mahadeve Gowda (AGM-HR), who made this internship possible for us. We
would also like to convey our heartfelt gratitude to Mr. Raghuveer (factory manager). Considering our
exposure to all the departments, we would also extend our thanks Mr. Bheema Reddy, (I.E and
industry mentor) who helped us in every way he could. We also thank Ms. Pavitra (HR) and Ms.
Krishnapriya (IE) for their help and support.
We would also like to convey thanks to our institute National
Institute of Fashion Technology, Kannur for arranging such an opportunity for us. We would also
extend our thanks to Mr. Chandramouli (assistant faculty and internship mentor, NIFT Kannur)
and Mr. Chakravarty (assistant faculty, NIFT Kannur) for helping and guiding us with our projects
and the documentation.
Without the help of these people, this Internship would not have been a success. So we thank them all from
the core of our heart.
Page 2
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Garment Industry is kind of a field where practical knowledge and personal experience matters the
most in tackling critical situations and taking major decisions. Thus on job experience is much needed
along with through subject knowledge.
The objective of this summer internship was:
Page 3
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
The Apparel Manufacturing Industry transforms fabrics produced by textile manufacturers into clothing
and accessories that fill the retail stores. By cutting and sewing fabrics or other materials, such as
leather, rubberized fabrics, plastics, and furs, workers in this industry help to keep consumers warm,
dry and in style.
The apparel industry traditionally has consisted mostly of production workers who performed the cutting
and sewing functions in an assembly line. This industry remains labor-intensive, despite advances in
technology and workplace practices. Although many workers still perform this work in the United States,
the industry increasingly contracts out its production work to foreign suppliers to take advantage of
lower labor costs in other countries. In its place, a growing number of apparel manufacturers are
performing only the entrepreneurial functions involved in apparel manufacturing such as buying raw
materials, designing clothes and accessories and preparing samples, arranging for the production and
distribution of the apparel, and marketing the finished product.
As the opportunity increases the competition also increases. India is getting tough completion from
China, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh because of cheap labour and government policies. The textile and
apparel manufacturing industries are rapidly modernizing, as new investments in automation and
information technology have been made necessary by growing international competition.
Occupations provided by the Industry
The textile industry offers employment opportunities in a variety of occupations, but production occupations
accounted for 64 percent of all jobs. Some of these production occupations are unique to the industry.
Additional opportunities also exist in material-moving, administrative support, maintenance, repair,
management, and professional occupations. The industry also employs a small number of workers in
service and sales occupations.
Page 4
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Gap
Old Navy
Tommy Hilfiger
Guess
H&M
Pacsun
Decathlon
Debenhams
Express
Nautica
Sean Jean
Brooks Brothers
SSI
Chaps
Polo
J Crew
Target
JC Penny
PVH
Izod
Talbots
KDC
Sears
Aeo
A&F
Hollister
Liz Claiborne
Gymboree
Benetton
Kohl's
Federated
J Jill
Club Monaco
Eddie Bauer
French Cconnection
Armani Exchange
Page 5
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Blended fabrics with chief value cotton blends, in solids, checks and stripes
Corduroy, Velvet
Dresses
Skirts
Tunics
Camp Shirts
MATERIALS
Cotton Twill, Canvas, Cambric, Poplin, Voile, Jacquard, Texture, Yarn Dyes
Cotton Spandex
Dress Shirts
Denim Wear
MATERIALS
Womenswear Bottoms
PRODUCTS
Lounge pants
Cargo skirts
MATERIALS
All cotton woven fabrics like twills, canvas, rib stop, herring bone weave, Bedford cords,
corduroys, sateen weave etc.
Page 7
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Shahi has more than 30 state of the art manufacturing facilities. The total production capacity of the
company is around 6.7 million per month (both woven and knits). It has over 24000 machines.
Washing and embroidery facilities of Shahi are the best in apparel sector in India. More than 90
Multi-head computerized embroidery machines having capacity of 40 billion stitches per month. 100
Front loading washing machines having facility of over 50 tones of garment per day. State-Of-theArt fabric processing/dyeing/printing plant.
The entire Shahi organization works on a single ERP system, which unifies the working of all the
departments. The ERP, Movex, is cross-functional and enterprise wide. This allows to typically
handling the manufacturing, logistics, distribution, inventory, shipping, invoicing, and accounting in
the company. This also synchronizes all business activities like sales, delivery, billing, production,
inventory management, quality management, and human resources management.
Through Enterprise Resource Planning, Shahi has amalgamated the company's information
systems & have designed it to bind more closely all company functions including human resources,
inventories and financials while simultaneously linking the company to customers and vendors.
Modules like CRM, SRM, SCM and EPM not only give efficient services to customers but also help
to deal effectively with suppliers.
Awards
Bangalore operations of Shahi started on July 01, 1988 with 250 Associates and 104 machines.
Since its inception Bangalore, operations have expanded by 50 times in 20 years.
All activities in woven section are being monitored by zonal head office i.e. Unit 7 as it is a
centralized organization. Major decisions in departments like merchandising, executive planning,
sourcing etc are being taken and executed by this unit only and informed to the other units as and
when required.
Page 8
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
NAME OF FACTORY
FACTORY CODE
Unit-09
YEAR OF ESTABLISHMENT
2008
DATE OF COMMENCEMENT OF
2008
PRODUCTION
SECTOR
ANNUAL TURNOVER
EMPLOYEE STRENGTH
HEAD OFFICE
FACTORY ADDRESS
th
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd, 171, 7 Main Road, Industrial Suburb, Peenya
2nd Stage, 3rd Phase, BBMP ward no. II, Bengaluru- 560058, INDIA
PRODUCT CATEGORY
100% cotton, Cotton spandex blends, Cotton satin blends, Silk, Chiffon
Cotton polyester nylon blends.
CLIENTELE
MONTHLY PRODUCTION
3,00,000/ month
CAPACITIES
Page 9
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Departmental Studies
Page 10
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Page 11
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Page 12
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Page 13
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
1st Floor
2nd Floor
Basement
Ground floor
3rd Floor
4th Floor
Page 14
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Marketing merchandising.
Product merchandising.
Product Development
Costing
Ordering
Marketing merchandising is to bring orders, costing, product development and it has direct contact
with the buyer.
5.2 Product merchandising
Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities from sourcing to
finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and ends till shipment.
A Merchandisers key responsibility is as follows:
Product Development
Confirming Deliveries
Booking orders
Costing
Flow Monitoring
Raw Material
5.4 Costing
The most important activity for the merchant is to estimate correctly and negotiate for the cost of
production before the buyer sends on the PO. During the pre-development stage an initial costing
occurs to get an idea of the garment cost likely to be incurred per piece.
These costs includes general raw material cost, manufacturing cost, washing cost, markup cost etc.
Once the production sample is approved and the grading done a final costing is done accurately using
fabric averages from the CAD, cost of trims etc.
Page 16
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Costing
Analyze fabric
consumption from
CAD
Sampling
Analyze cost of
trims and
fabric
Obtain general
sewing data from
IED
Develop sample as
per the tech pack
Develop proto
sample
Confirmation
of order
Yes
No
Approval
Cost sheet
reworked
Obtain GSD
from IED
Execute
bulk order
Yes
Follow up with
production
departments &
update the buyer
Approval
Submit required
documents to
documentation
dept
No
Follow up
on the
payments
for goods
End
Page 17
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Proto Sample.
Shipment Sample.
Fit Sample.
Size Set.
Sales Sample.
Page 18
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
50 operators
1 cutting tables
2 ironing tables
60 workers
Ref no.
Fabric
Description
Color
Composition
Quantity
Store
Page 19
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Page 20
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Shahi has a centralized planning department which does the main planning and allocates the styles to
the particular units according to its capacity of that unit. In Shahi unit 9 there is only one planner who
co-ordinates all the planning processes with the central unit. Thus when unit -9 gets an order, it does
Start
Confirm in consultation
with embroidery,
washing departments
End
Page 21
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Page 22
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Page 23
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
The Industrial Engineering Department works on the basis of the following definition of Industrial
Engineering is, it is a systematic approach for
Design
Installation
Development
Implementation and Maintenance of the integrated system of Man, Material and Machine/
Equipment
The industrial engineering department works for their optimum utilization for the higher productivity of
the organization with ultimate goal of earning better profit.
The tech pack made by the IED for a particular order has been shown which consists of the following
details of a particular order,
Batch layout
Operation bulletin
General
manager
(operations)
Industrial
engineer
(senior)
Industrial engineer
(sampling executive)
Industrial engineer
(production)
assistants
Page 24
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Systems
development
Work Measurement
Selection of operators,
helpers, supervisors,
checkers, QC, etc.
Time study
Method
study
OPD
Analysis
Skill matrix
Line
balancing
Batch layout
Style
bulletin
Batch
performanc
End
8.2 Function:
The IED department has to work with many other departments as this department gives the
entire idea of the garment construction and the thread and trims consumption criteria, operators skill
level categorization and other related aspects. Hence they play a vital role in determining the cost of
producing a single piece of the garment and cost of the factory for that particular style of garment.
The different departments with which the IED works are as follows:
Planning department - The IED department helps the planning department to know the time
required for the production of that particular style of the garment by calculating the SAM value for it
and they also help in finding the capacity of the factory based on which the planning department
takes a decision if they have to proceed with order or not.
Page 25
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Page 26
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Grade
Highly skilled
Skilled
Semi skilled
The operators for each batch are taken in a ratio given below:
20% - Highly Skilled
25% - Skilled
A record is maintained in which the skills of operators are updated on timely bases. Because of
maintaining this record they keep in track of the operators skill and his efficiency, working method and
after a particular span of time they update the record.
Suppose a new operator joins and he is completely unaware of stitching then a training for
about 45 50 days is given to him/her and then based on their learning and grasping capacity a grade
is been allocated to them primarily. Suppose the operator/new employee knows or has a previous work
experience in a garment industry then he is just been asked about his job which he/she would have
done in the previous factory and then he/she is just given an hours test to know his skills and then
grade is been allocated.
Everyday the IED team there will be a meeting where in which they speak about the
maintenance of efficiency of the batch in the production floor. They also conduct a production review
meetings with the operation team in which they discuss about the line and the operation carried out in
the batch suppose the previously planned flow is not giving the estimated efficiency and output then
they will think of changing the line plan and review it and later follow the right one.
Page 27
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Once a style comes to the industry, the industrial engineering department gets into action. The IED
starts with the style study and analysis of the style which includes estimation of the work content for
each department (cutting, sewing and finishing), the machinery requirements for the smooth
functioning of these departments. The industrial engineering department then calculates the
process cost the style and compares it with the budgeted cost given by the head office. Finally, it
takes care of the special machines required for the particular style.
After the order is confirmed, the IED reanalyzes the style and find ways for method simplification
with factory managers and other concerned people. This result in a finalized operation bulletin and
Page 28
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Page 29
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
No
Inform merchant
reject rolls
C
Yes
Is
shrinkag
e <= 4%
Sanforization
Scored
point<=
40
No
Check 100%
Yes
End
Page 30
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Inspection (making lots according to the shade, Four point inspection is done)
defects.
Defects like weaving or colored patta are recorded without measuring the dimension of the
If fabric inspection is not done carefully, so there are chances that all defects may not to be
recorded.
Defects are recorded at the end of the inspection, as this may lead to mistakes.
Page 31
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Grouping
Pass
Fail
Numbering
100%
inspection
Shade approval
Page 32
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
NO
Inform the
merchant and
reject the
rolls/ takkas
Are shade
band
approved?Yes
End
Page 33
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Penalty
3 or less
1 point
2 point
3 point
Over 9
4 Point
A maximum of four points is charged to one linear yard. In this system the length of the defect is
measured to determine the penalty points. The four-point system provides for the evaluation of the
fabric on either a linear yard or square yard basis. As the fabric with more width, will have more area.
Or we can say that a 72 wide fabric will have twice the area when compared to a 36 wide fabric. As
the area of the fabric is more, this is obvious that the fabric will contain twice the number of defects.
Formula for calculating the number of defect points per hundred square yards: Total defect points found x 3600
Defect points per hundred square yards =
Fabric width (inch) * fabric length (yard)
Page 34
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
9.4 Machinery and workforce and other details in fabric store, unit-9
and other technical testing, 1 quality controller, 1 operator for erp and record maintenance.
Work Force: 1 Store Manager, 5 Fabric checker, 6 helper, 1 IED assistant for shade segregation
Fabric storing criterion: Buyer wise, Shade wise both in rolls and takkas.
Details on the label attached fabric roll: Fabric code, Color, Item number, Buyer, Roll number,
Marker, Width, Shade.
Page 35
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
The basic function of the trims and accessories section is to stock buttons, laces, trims and other
related accessories. The stock is let out depending upon the order and the requirement of PPC
department or the merchandising/sampling department. The workflow is quite lucid here. First the
department that needs a particular material fills up a requisition slip for the same. It is then forwarded to
the stores manager, who then approves the demand depending on his discretion.
The accessory stores here are the central stores in the unit-7. The accessory stores generally
receives the materials from three different locations and they can be classified into,
Faridabad
Domestics
Imports
The acceptance of the raw materials or the accessories is generally done in terms of documents i.e.,
whatever it may be whether acceptance and receiving whenever they are done they are done
according to the documents that have been received from the merchants and also department makes
the document for anything they carry out within the store.
The department first receives a PO copy from the merchants, which the merchants would have
sent it to any one among the three above mentioned supplier types. As soon as the accessory
department comes to know about the date on which they will receive that particular material they will
make a note of it in their MOVEX that they will be receiving that material and this is termed as PRE
GRN.
Once the material reaches the stores on the prescribed day and date the concerned person verifies the
materials against invoice/ Delivery Challan and packing list which they would have received from the
merchant as already stated.
Send entire goods to quality department (1.5 AQL or as per the buyer demand).
Trims stored in unit-9: Button, Zip, Thread, Labels, Lace, Poly bag, Price tag, Hangers, Seizers,
Cartons, Other stationary items like files, issue slips and records.
Major buyer shelves: Wal-Mart, JC Penny, Espirt, H & M, Target, Mango, AEO
Page 37
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Prepare PREGRN
PROCESS
SELECTION
PRODUCTION
ISSUES
End
Page 38
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
After inspecting the materials for the quality as per AQL then the allocation of trims based on the nature
of the item.
Then the department prepares the GRN according to the materials received and against the
documents received obtained from the merchants and they also do the bill entry. The bills whatever
they enter is been forwarded to the accounts department for the payments and to fulfill other formalities
and a copy of it is also given to the sourcing department in order to inform them about the materials inhoused.
After this the department has to carry out two processes hand-in-hand they are,
Process selection :
In this method they prepare the work order and also the delivery challan and then they keep all the
documents and also forward the trims along with the document for processing.
Production issues:
Another thing that they have to do is identify trims which has been approved by merchants and then
prepare the delivery challan and keep the trims ready to issue to the factories. Materials to be issued
after inspected by security against DC as already mentioned.
Page 39
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Yes
NO
If width is
correct
No
Report to cutting
head for revised
marker
Is correction required?
YES
Make alternate patterns
Qc form for
cutting
Page 40
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
YES
Quality
check
NO
Quality
check
Inform QAM
and cutting
manager
Bundling
Final audit
Page 41
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
RECEIVING OF MARKER
LAYING OF FABRIC
NUMBEREING
Page 42
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
QUALITY
AUDIT PASS
DESPATCH TO SEWING FROM SUPER MARKET
Cutting is a process of separating parts from the fabric as the pattern pieces in the marker for assembly
operations. This is carried out in the cutting room-an area, which normally indicates the activities of
marker planning, spreading and preparation for sewing as well as being used to refer to actual cutting
of garment parts from the lay. Marker planning is done in the CAD room. Garments are cut in bulk
simultaneously for which a lay is created; with a number of plies spread one above another. The marker
from CAD is fixed over the lay and it is cut with help of powerful electric cutters, or CAM m/c following
the lines of the patterns. The main objective of the cutting department is to cut the parts accurately and
economically and in sufficient volume to keep the production units supplied with work.
11.1 Basic work flow
Page 43
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Spreading
Spreading is a process of superimposing plies of fabric on a horizontal table in a manner, which permits
these plies to be cut simultaneously into product components acceptable for assembly. For this, first of
all a thin brown paper sheet is pasted on the cutting table using an adhesive tape to prevent the bottom
plies from shifting during cutting. Then the actual spreading process begins with the laying of first fabric
layer on this brown sheet and subsequently the other plies are laid.
The spreading of this lay is done either manually or automatically by the spreading machine. While
manual spreading is time consuming, the use of travelling machine gives faster and more accurate
results. The length of the lay depends upon the quality (also shade and shrinkage) of the fabric & length
of the marker as specified by the CAD. Whereas the lay height depends upon the thickness of the
fabric and the capacity of the machine.
The lengths of the plies being spread are kept as perfectly as possible while superimposing their sides
on one another. The difference between the lengths and breadths is kept as low as possible and
generally not more than inch +/-. The height of the lay is kept between 2 1/2 inches to 3 inches. An
increased height may affect quality cutting due to unstable layers. The tension at which the fabric is laid
is also monitored.
Positioning the marker is the process of placing the marker plan on the top of the lay and securing it
with adhesive to prevent its movement during cutting. When the marker is placed it is kept exactly
matching the length and width of the top ply of the lay. Details like style no., name of the part, size
number and number of components is printed on the marker as a guide. Then it is clamped for better
grip.
Page 44
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Cutting
The lay is cut with help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines or CAM m/c. the machine
is moved through the lay following the pattern lines of the marker and the reciprocating blade cut the
pieces of fabric progressively. Notches are also added, for smaller components like collars, ribs etc.
that need high accuracy, band knife-cutting machine is used. It is a non-portable cutting device, which
cuts the fabric as it is passed across the blade. The garments are kept aside as and when they are cut.
Spread
Place marker
Cut pattern pieces
11.2. B Block cutting
Jacquard, stripes and checks are not being spread with spreading machine due to requirements of
matching so they are spread manually. Often structures like jacquard and checks are spread and cut in
single number for accuracy. The plies are spread one at a time matching the strips with those in the
previous plies. Then blocks are cut out from this spread for specific number of pieces. The size of the
block is dictated by the CAD room itself, which sends a mini marker for the cutting of the blocks from
the lay and the placement of the patterns on the blocks. Accordingly the cut blocks are manually
marked on top with marking chalk and using hard paper patterns. The plies in the block are aligned to
match the stripes and rough cutting of the fabric following the markings of the patterns is done. The cut
shapes are again checked for alignment and the stripes superimposed. A final precise cutting occurs to
finish the pattern.
Cutting of stripped fabric is a much more time consuming process. The wastage involved is also more
due to cutting in two stages.
Spread
Mark blocks
Match
Match
Cut patterns
Mark patterns
Page 45
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Page 46
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Machine
Quantity
Make
Spreading machine
F k Arna
Straight knives
10
Eastman
Band knives
Eastman
Fusing m/c
Shima
Spreading Table
Mica surface
Manpower: 1 cutting manager, 1 incharge, 4 supervisors, 1 cutting executive, 1 minusing incharge (i.e.
- cut order plan), 100 workforces.
Daily Production: 14,000 to 18,000 pcs. per day.
Spreading tables: 6 lines
Bundling and ticketing tables: 2 lines
WIP to Sewing floor: 1.5 days to 2 days
Page 47
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Marking
Framing
embroidery
Trimming and checking.
Pack goods.
Dispatch goods.
The department receives Artwork from the merchandising department which contains the following
details
Placement of design
Pattern position
Color etc.
They refer the buyer wise design details from the production book in which the details of each order
are maintained.
These details are entered into the software which is linked to the machines.
The machines operate according to the details entered into the software.
Page 48
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
The details about the threads (strength, plies) to be used come from the Production Planning and
Control Department
The department remains in constant touch with the Pattern Making and Cutting departments for the
correct positioning of the designs and enabling continuous work flow respectively.
Start
Packing
Delivery
Style reconciliation
End
Page 49
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Machine details
Company: Barudan
Model: 912K
Zigzag
Satin
Running
Titanium
Zari
Page 50
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
12.3.e Quality
Loose stitch
Remedies for defects
Manual embroidery
Re-embroidery
12.3.f Costing
Cost depends on the no. of colors in the design as well as the size of the design
Size
If colors in the design are more than 2 then per colour 5 paisa increase per piece.
Garment embroidery is costlier than parts embroidery
Tolerance: 2mm-3mm
Page 51
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
TARGET
WALMART
ESPIRT etc.
This unit has four production floors totally having 32 lines of production.
Capacity: The production unit has a capacity of 12,000-15,000 pieces per day
Each batch has approx 45-65 workstations and machines apart from button sewing, button
sewing, and folding machines.
Once during pilot production where they have to produce about 250 500 garments for the new
style which is sent to the buyer to check the workmanship and production skills of the factory.
Bulk production
any extra kinds of machines that are to be used for the particular style,
After this batch setting process the production for the next day starts with a smaller commitment i.e.,
may be for 50 pieces for the entire day and then the production gradually increases from 50 100
150 and so on, this will make the operators learn slowly and precisely about the processes that has to
be carried out for the particular style.
The sections for the sewing process in progressive bundling system :
Front section
Sleeve section
Cuff section
Back section
Collar section
Assembly
Kaja and buttons section
The sections for the sewing process in Group/ Modular production System :-
Page 53
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
In-process checking.
End line checking. Here there exists both AQL audit and normal checking.
The supervisor plays a vital role in the production floor. He/she manages the entire batch which is been
allocated to them and they have the following functions to perform:-
Page 54
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Start
Bulk Production
Cut parts received from
Parts preparation
Assembly
In-Line
End line checking & AQL
Button & button hole/ Bar tack
Washing
Rough checking
Ironing
Final checking
Measurement checking
Tagging
Packing
FSA Audit
Auditing by buyer QA
Truck out
End
Page 55
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
There are approximately 2000 machines used in production floor. Allotment of sewing and other
machines are done as per requirement. Different types of machines are given below:
SNLS
SNLS(EC)
DNLS(UBT)
DNCS
BARTACK M/C
SNLS(UBT)
DNLS
SNCS
Page 56
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
The washing unit will now check the garment for the different aspects which are as follows:
Dye / ink used in the labels that are being attached to the garment.
The wet processes that has to be carried out to get the end product.
After coming to a conclusion of what recipe has to be used for the garment they start treating
the garments in the desired sequence.
At first they segregate the garments based on shade wise, job wise and unit wise,
suppose the garments which are white in colour and which have to be treated in the similar
manner then such styles are clubbed together irrespective of their styles.
After this segregation washing is carried out as per the buyers specifications. In this washing
there are two types.
1. Wet processing
2. Dry processing
Wet processing involves mainly two types which are as follows:1. Washing process: After dyeing is finished the fabrics or the garments are taken to the
washing process. There are different types of washing procedures involved which are
classified as follows :
Desieze wash
Denim wash
Tinting/ T- staining
Softener wash
Enzyme wash
Bleach wash
Acid wash
Page 58
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Page 59
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Start
Washing
As per buyer
Dry process:
grinding/ripping/ blowout/ sand
blasting/crinkling/ whiskering/ severen
Wet
Processing
Dyeing
Reactive
Pigment
Washing:
softener/ acid/ desize/enzyme/ stone/
rubber ball/ stone
enzyme/ tinting/ normal water wash/
dip n dry/ denim
Hydro Extraction
Drying
Inspection (Random)
End
Page 60
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
14.4.b Machine:
No. of washing machines (front load) : 4 (500 kg)
No. of drying machines: 6 (200 kg)
No. of washing machines (top loading) : 1 (200 kg)
No. of hydro extractor: 3 (100 kg)
No. of sample washing machines : 2 (25 kg)
No. of Sample hydro extractor: 1 (25 kg)
No of drying sample machine: 1 (25 kg)
14.4.c Production Capacity:
Daily production (washing output): 10,000 kg/day
Page 61
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Quality is the major criteria for any product and the same rule applies even to garment
industries also. Quality audit tools like:AQL 1.5 cutting audit
AQL 2.5 - garment auditing
4 point system- for fabric checking
15.1 FUNCTIONING OF THE DEPARTMENT:
In order to maintain quality the quality assurance department has split up their job into
different stages of manufacturing and there are classified into four major groups which are as
follows :
Pre-production audit:
In this stage auditing is mainly done for the stages which come before the production which is
sampling. Here the auditing is done for all samples and precisely for the size set samples and
also for the pilot production garments. The size set samples are given importance to because
they are mainly asked by the buyer for checking the dimensions of the garment hence an extra
stress is given to these samples and the auditing for them is mainly done for the measurements
of the garment and the measurements are checked at all the critical areas in the garment.
For example: if it is a trouser then the measurements are checked at the areas like the length
of the trouser, waist measurements, inseam measurements, the distance of the belt loops, etc.,
For the pilot run production also the garments are checked for the dimensions and also for the
placement of the accessories and trims for example, the label attachment areas, etc.
All the trial samples, measurement samples (before wash and after wash), size set sample etc
are approved by Quality Assurance personnel before offering any external checking and before
starting the pilot run also.
CAD:
Here all the markers are checked with shade and shrinkage preferences.
Cutting audit:
In the cutting stage, which is the critical stage of the garment production the auditing is further
divided into many other departments which are as follows:Page 62
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
100% Checking of cut pieces before they are issued to sewing floor.
Sewing audit:
In sewing process the inspection is done in two areas which are as follows :-
1. In line audit:
Here the garments are checked during their different stages of
manufacturing which are as follows: After front ready
Button/button hole :
In this area the auditing is mainly done by the operator himself as the job is
limited, it is just button attachment that has to be done and the operator does it himself as and
when he finishes his part of the job with the garment and the operator will be given or taught
about the specifications for the garment to attach the button/ making the button holes.
After the auditing is done in each and every stage the defects, findings and other related
information will be recorded by the concerned departments in their own formats and they will be
sent to the respective departments for rectifications.
Page 63
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
In ironing section before final ironing, the buyer nominated QA signs the sample for approval.
There are roaming Q.C s monitoring the entire process.
15.2 Manpower and other Details:
Workforce: 1 senior manager, 2 Quality managers.
Each department they have Q.C incharge and QCs.
Cutting: 2 incharge and 8 QC
Sewing: 8 incharge and 32 QC (end line) and 64 inline checkers.
Washing: 2 QC
Finishing and Packaging: 24 QC
Output: Quality level achieved as per buyer norms. Daily 1000 garments packed in finishing
section with AQL quality checking to maintain quality level.
15.3 Reports maintained for Quality:
These reports help in monitoring the quality throughout the production process.
Size set report.
Spreading, Lay report, Cutting report.
Inline and end line check report.
In process measurement report.
Washing report.
Final statistical audit report etc.
Page 64
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Wal-Mart has a special quality measures and protocols for ll its manufacturers. They follow
specific code of conduct and discipline during the entire production process.
The Traffic Light System has to be implemented in the batch for monitoring the quality. The
process is described below.
The procedure that needs to enable flagging of quality issues during the sewing process
allowing the targeted and prompt action by the most appropriate personnel.
Faults Found
New product Introduction
0
1
0
1
1
0
0
2
1
0
1
Color Codes
Yellow
Green
Yellow
Green
Yellow
Red
Yellow
Green
Red
Red
Yellow
Yellow
0
0
Yellow
green
Page 65
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
A
Standard check
time
Any
faulty
garment
found
Yes
No
Yes
No
No
action
required
A
Update daily inspection report
and move to next part.
Page 66
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Yellow
B
Tighten check
One or
more
faulty
garment
Change to red
Yes
No
Change to Green
Update daily
inspection report and
move to next part.
Resume normal
activity
Page 67
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Red
C
Upon supervisor
request only
One or
more
faulty
garment
Check min. of 5
fresh garments.
No
Yes
Third consecutive
red
Change to Red.
Flagged red.
Change to yellow.
Flagged yellow.
Yes
Keep the
workstation under
tight Monitoring.
Reach QM to inspect
Determine
validate
corrective
actions.
Page 68
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
The finishing department is the department which comes after all the departments and it plays
an equally important role in the final appearance of the garment.
Finishing department in Unit 19 is situated on the ground floor.
16.1 FUNCTIONING OF THE DEPARTMENT:
Trimming:
This involves the removal of the extra threads from the garment at the stitched areas. As
soon as the garment comes from washing , undergoes extensive trimming of the inside
and outside part of it.
Thread Sucking
There are 2 thread sucking machines in the department which suck the extra threads
stuck to the garment. These thread sucking machine are facilitated with Suction control ,
Set on time and balance on time options, sensor and pedal options.
Pressing
The pressing is done after the garment has been completely inspected and the
garments are pressed on the basis of how they will be folded during packing.
Semi pressing
This happens when a garment is difficult to inspect in the crushes manner as it comes
from the washing department hence, they do a partial pressing for the garments and
then inspect it and trim it and then send it to the complete pressing process.
Measurement checking
After the garment is being pressed , it undergoes for measurement checking according
Wash-care labels
Side seam
Sleeve
Placket buttons
Armhole
Cuff
Back
Inspection
The inspection carried out here is according to the AQL 2.5 system and sometimes it
depends on the buyer also i.e., if the buyer emphasizes for a 100% inspection then the
company has to do as specified.
Tagging section
Once the garments are been done with the inspection and complete pressing then they
are sent for tagging the labels and the labels include the size labels, price tags and
miscellaneous labels if any required by the buyer. Once the tagging is done the
garments are folded according to the buyers specification and also they are either
folded plainly or sometimes they are folded after they are put to the hangers as per the
buyers specifications again.
The packing material, PCB details, number of size ratios that are supposed to be
put in are all suggested by the buyer and the packing is done according to these
specifications.
Packing
The packing is always done in the carton boxes and there are several criteria for the
packing of the garments which are as follows:There are generally two kinds of packing the garment
1. The garment is individually packed/wrapped in the poly bag whose design will be
specified by the buyer i.e., either with the hanger attached or plain poly bag packing
Page 70
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
The packing criteria followed in each carton box as already mentioned is done in different
ways which is as follows:
Solid Packing:
In this method of packing, the carton box will include garments of single color and same
size.
For example, 20 shirts of a similar color say navy blue and the size say S will be put in
one carton box.
Ratio Packing:
In this method the carton box includes garments of same colour but of different sizes
according to the ratio.
For example, S : M : L : XL = 5 : 7 : 7 : 5.
Mixed Packing:
In this method the carton box includes garments of different colours but of same size or
garments with different colors and different sizes in a particular ratio form.
After the packing is done the garments are kept in the godown/stores until the buyer sends the
buyer QC for the inspection purpose before delivering them and once the QC arrives he will
check them according to the 2.5 AQL level and then see if the garments has to be accepted or
rejected.
Page 71
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Trimming
Inside checking
Is Quality
checking
correct?
No
Rework
Yes
Rough Iron
Outside checking
Page 72
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Is Quality
checking
correct?
No
Rework
Yes
Final checking
Is Quality
checking
correct?
No
Rework
Yes
Measurement check
Final pressing
Presentation
check
Shade
segregation
Metal detection
Tagging
Tag audit
Poly-BAG
PACKAGING
Carton
packaging
Carton audit
Page 73
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Audit pass
No
Recheck 100%
Yes
External final
checking
END
Page 74
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
The HR department in Shahi unit-9 is headed by one core person who is responsible for the
recruitment and training of the new and existing workforce. The HR team also takes care of
other issues related to the workers like salary, production related and personal problems.
The HR team also consists of welfare officer, salary officer and maintenance officer for the
safety and other work related issues.
Shahi also provides counseling and doctors inside the premises of the company for its
workers and employees free of cost. The company also provides with crche facility for the
children of its workers and employees.
women. All these facilities are provided to reduce the grievances of the worker and thus
reduce the attrition levels in the industry.
The company provides cash rewards for 100% attendance and best employee. It also
provides its workers and employees with transportation and lunch facilities at subsidized
rate. It also has 24hr ambulance facility in case of emergency.
It has tie-ups with many NGOs like Sankalp, which often holds awareness programs for the
workers on HIV and Tuberculosis.
The company also faces a major problem of attrition like the other industries. The attrition
level varies seasonally in the company. The overall attrition level for the year 2010-11 was
at 10.11% .The Company is striving to achieve an attrition level at 7% per annum.
Page 75
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
The company adheres to the 5s policies and has compliance with ISO SA 8000 and has
also obtained DSIC certification.
The HR team also provides soft skill training and technical training for a period of 45 days.
The company also provides PSI, ESI as per govt. rules and follows a 60hr per week working
time.
The payment of salary is made 90% through bank cards and 10% through cash. There is
also a swiping system for monitoring the daily attendance of the operators. The company
also follows ILFS laws for improved work environment.
MD
DIRECTOR
PROFIT CENTER
HEAD
VP- OPERATIONS
GM- FINANCE
GM-HR
DGM- PROJECTS
SR MGR - PURCHASE
MGR - SYSYTEMS
SR MGR - LOGISTICS
Page 76
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
PCH
MERCHANDISING
FABRIC SOURCING
BUSINESS
INTELLIGENCE
DESIGN
DIVISIONAL
MANAGER
SR. MANAGER
SR. MANAGER
EXECUTIVE
ASST. MANAGER
MANAGER/
EXPORTS
SR. EXECUTIVE
SR. EXECUTIVE
SR. EXECUTIVE
EXECUTIVE
EXECUTIVE
EXECUTIVE
TRAINEE
JR. EXECUTIVE
JR. EXECUTIVE
TRAINEE
TRAINEE
PRODUCT
DEVELOPER
MANAGER
EXECUTIVE
Page 77
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
EXECUTION
MAINTAINENCE
EXECUTIVE
SR.
EXECUTIVE
SR.
MANAGER
MANAGER
JR.
EXECUTIVE
EXECUTIVE
ASST.
MANAGER
SR .
PATTERN
MASTER
HR
SAMPLING
TRAINEE
SR.
EXECUTIVE
JR . PATTERN
MASTER
EXECUTIVE
Page 78
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Style Study
Page 79
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Warehouse
Customer name
Wal-Mart
Style no.
FL31216T/TW
Item no.
M256/DOTCOM
13-may 2010
Season
2012C2 Spring
Brand
Faded glory
Colours
Arctic white
Navy waters
Olive leaves
Poplin (100% cotton)
Knit rib (2X2)(96%cotton, 4% spandex)
S, M, L, XL,XXL
Fabric type
Sizes
Fabric
consumption
garment of basic size)
Name
Lead time
Order quantity
2 months
207388 pieces
Buyer office
United States
Merchandiser received the tech pack, prepared the same style in some colors and out of
these colors the buyer selected four colors during the selection meeting which took place in
Shahi, Faridabad.
A total of 427832 pieces of the style has been ordered, of which 207388 has been allocated
to Shahi unit-09 for production.
After receiving the techpack from the buyer, the merchandising committee prepared the
same style in some colors which were available and out of these colors the buyer selected
Page 80
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
This was followed by the process of costing by the merchandising team which was
completed within the next two days.
After the process of costing by the merchandising department, the tech pack with required
details was forwarded to all the other departments like
The manufacturing, sourcing and the purchasing department made sure if the sourcing of
the fabric and the accessories was done on time.
The merchandiser informed the buyer about the costing and the quotation, which was
approved by the buyer after 3-4 days.
Then merchandiser received the order of the types of samples buyer asked for, the ordered
conformation was received only after the required sample was approved.
Unit-9 was selected for manufacturing 207388 pieces of the 427832 pieces actually
ordered by Wal-Mart.
These are the processes that take place for a particular style in Shahi, Faridabad.
After the allocation of the unit by the centralized planning department, the planning
department in Shahi unit-9 planned the production according to availability, efficiency and
After the approval of the merchandiser, the sampling department prepared the size set
sample which is reviewed by the buyer QA technologist for this particular style during the
pre-production meeting.
Page 81
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
During the review of the size set samples, holes were discovered on the knitted side panel
and therefore the second size set sample was called for by the buyer.
By the time of the samples got approved, the factory had 30% of the fabric in-house along
with 90% of the trims and accessories which is essential for the pilot batch to commence.
pilot batch for sewing after 2-3 days. Pilot run took place for all colors.
for this style 500 samples were generated during the pilot run.
After the conformation of the buyer, the pilot cutting commenced which was followed by the
For this particular PO of 3 colour (arctic white, navy waters, olive green) pilot run was carried
There exists a separate set of workers who are mainly involved for the pilot run process and
After pilot run, buyer QA checked the garment w.r.t. the following criterias:
Shade matching
Garment components.
Voluminous of the garment
Trims location and placement type
Trimming
Stains
Pen/pencil marks
Needle holes
Physical damages in the fabric
After buyer approval, process of ordering for the raw materials and planning for the
manufacturing happened simultaneously.
CAD dept:
Patterns were made according to the measurement specifications given by the product
development team of Shahi and grading was done for all the sizes.
This was done in Shahi faridabad. These patterns were received in unit -7, Bangalore (CAD
Room).
Unit 9 doesnt have separate CAD Room facility. Marker making is done.
Page 82
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
This is sent to the merchandiser. Merchandiser includes the extra allowance in the
consumption & calculates the total fabric requirement and sends it to the sourcing
department for placing order for the fabric to the supplier.
Color
type
Arctic white
body
91260
93085.2
1.16
107978.83m
rib
91260
93085.2
0.5
46542.6 m
body
58112 59274.24
1.16
68758.11m
rib
58112 59274.24
0.5
29637.12m
body
58016 59176.32
1.16
68644.53m
rib
58016 59176.32
0.5
29588.16m
Navy waters
Olive leaves
order
qnty
2% extra
cons
/ gmt
fabric reqd
Fabric details:
Body fabric
Fabrication type
Woven
Dye method
Package(yarn or beam)
Poplin
Wash
Sand Wash
Fabric content
100% cotton
Epi
124
Material supplier
Vardhman
Ppi
64
Page 83
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Rib fabric
Description
Fabrication type
Fiber content
2X2 rib
knit
96% cotton
4% spandex
180 gm
Order quantity
PO#
COLOR
xl
xxl
TOTAL
Arctic white
11394
17103
22824
22836
17103
91260
Navy waters
7252
10890
14540
14540
10890
58112
Olive leaves
7240
10878
14504
14516
10878
58016
Machinery
description
3 thread over lock
SNLS(NUBT)
SNLS(EC)
5 thread OVERLOCK
Flat lock m/c
Bartack m/c
TABLES
IRON TABLES
Total no. of m/c
Reqd. no.
1
31
5
6
3
1
6
4
46
Skill grade
summary
A
B
C
total
bartack
No. of
operators
5
39.5
0.5
46
1
helper
ironer
4.5
3.5
Page 84
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Washing details:Sl.
1.
2.
process
ML
R
Rinse
1:8
Softener 1:5
tempera
ture
30
30
pH time
6
5.
5
2
15
Chemical
name
Water
Water
dosage Dos.
type
OTH
OTH
Amount
in kgs
264.000
165.000
Acetic
acid
Ultrafluid
G101
Supersoft
NUSflake
.50
0.165
3.00
0.990
4.00
1.320
Page 85
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Warehouse
Customer name
Espirit
Style no.
40311 U
Item no.
M578
25th-july 2010
Season
2012C2 Spring
Brand
espirit
Colors
Fabric type
Sizes
S, M, L, XL
Lead time
Order quantity
2 months
48654 pieces
Buyer office
United States
Merchandiser received the tech pack, prepared the same style in some colors and out of
these colors the buyer selected 3 colors during the selection meeting which took place in
Shahi, Faridabad.
Sent the tech pack with required details to all the other departments like
Page 86
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Planning department checked the availability of all the concerned departments in different
units.
The manufacturing, sourcing and the purchasing department made sure if the sourcing of
The costing details were sent to the buyer the next day after receiving techpack.
Buyer informs merchandiser within 3-4 days, if the quotation they had sent had been
accepted.
From here the style went to the sampling section for the further developments in unit 9.
At sampling section
Sealer sample is received with tech pack from the head office on 20 January, 2011
After approval style goes for bulk. Bulk manufacturing started on 2 February 2011.
Inspection of the sealer sample with tech pack i.e. measurement check is done.
After the allocation of the unit by the centralised planning department, the planning
department in Shahi unit-9 planned the production according to availability, efficiency and
After the approval of the merchandiser, the sampling department prepared the size set
sample which is reviewed by the buyer QA technologist for this particular style during the
pre-production meeting.
and therefore the second size set sample was called for by the buyer.
During the review of the size set samples, holes were discovered on the knitted side panel
By the time of the samples got approved, the factory had 30% of the fabric in-house along
with 90% of the trims and accessories which is essential for the pilot batch to commence.
Page 87
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
After the conformation of the buyer, the pilot cutting commenced which was followed by the
pilot batch for sewing after 2-3 days. Pilot run took place for all colours.
For this particular PO of 3 colour () pilot run was carried out in unit -9.
There exists a separate set of workers who are mainly involved for the pilot run process and
for this style 500 samples were generated during the pilot run.
The pilot batch ran for 500 pieces.
After pilot run, buyer QA checked the garment w.r.t. the following criterias:
Shade matching
Garment components.
Voluminous of the garment
Trims location and placement type
Trimming
Stains
Pen/pencil marks
Needle holes
Physical damages in the fabric
After buyer approval, process of ordering for the raw materials and planning for the
manufacturing happened simultaneously.
CAD dept:
Patterns were made according to the measurement specifications given by the product
development team of Shahi and grading was done for all the sizes.
This was done in Shahi faridabad. These patterns were received in unit -7, Bangalore
(CAD Room).
Page 88
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
This is sent to the merchandiser. Merchandiser includes the extra allowance in the
consumption & calculates the total fabric requirement and sends it to the sourcing
department for placing order for the fabric to the supplier.
Order quantity
s
9052
Snowdrift white
m
15252
Sizes
l
xl
14106 9204
total
48654
Fabric details:
Body fabric
Fabrication type
Woven
Poplin
Wash
Sand Wash
Fabric content
85-15 ,cotton-poly
Epi
124
Material supplier
sarla
Ppi
64
Machinery
description
DNLS(UBT)
SNLS(UBT)
SNLS(EC)
5 thread OVERLOCK
TABLES
IRON TABLES
Total no. of m/c
Reqd. no.
2.5
37.5
6
6
8
8
56
Skill grade
summary
A
B
C
total
No. of
operators
5
46
1
52
helper
ironer
9
8
Page 89
Washing details:Sl.
1.
2.
pH
time
6
5.5
2
15
Chemical
name
Water
Water
Acetic
acid
Ultrafluid
G101
Supersoft
NUSflake
dosag
e
.50
Dos.
type
OTH
OTH
%
Amount in
kgs
420.000
262.000
0.263
3.00
1.575
4.00
2.100
Page 90
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Warehouse
Customer name
JC Penny
Style no.
# 43805
Item no.
M298
13-may 2010
Season
2012C2 Spring
Brand
JCP
Colours
Fabric type
Sizes
S, M, L, XL,1X
Fabric
consumption
garment of basic size)
(per
Name
Lead time
Order quantity
3 months
102956 pieces
Buyer office
United States
Page 91
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Merchandiser received the tech pack, prepared the same style in some colors and out of
these colors the buyer selected 10 colors during the selection meeting which took place
in Shahi, Faridabad.
A total of 102956 pieces of the style has been ordered to Shahi unit-09 for production.
After receiving the techpack from the buyer, the merchandising committee prepared the
same style in some colors which were available and out of these colors the buyer
selected 10 colors (for this particular style) during the selection meeting which took place
in Shahi, Faridabad.
This was followed by the process of costing by the merchandising team which was
completed within the next two days.
After the process of costing by the merchandising department, the tech pack with
required details was forwarded to all the other departments like
The manufacturing, sourcing and the purchasing department made sure if the sourcing
of the fabric and the accessories was done on time.
The merchandiser informed the buyer about the costing and the quotation, which was
approved by the buyer after 3-4 days.
Then merchandiser received the order of the types of samples buyer asked for, the
ordered conformation was received only after the required sample was approved.
Shahi,
Faridabad.
Page 92
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
After the approval of the merchandiser, the sampling department prepared the size set sample
which is reviewed by the buyer QA technologist for this particular style during the pre-production
meeting.
During the review of the size set samples, holes were discovered on the knitted side panel and
therefore the second size set sample was called for by the buyer.
By the time of the samples got approved, the factory had 30% of the fabric in-house along with
90% of the trims and accessories which is essential for the pilot batch to commence.
After the conformation of the buyer, the pilot cutting commenced which was followed by the pilot
batch for sewing after 2-3 days. Pilot run took place for all colours.
For this particular PO of 10 colour (navy fuschia plaid, veridian green plaid, black/ ECRU
plaid, ECRU multi plaid, black/purple plaid, snowdrift multi plaid, tango red plaid,
chocolate chip/ pink, bayou blue carbaret, bayou blue W/str sky ) pilot run was carried out
in unit -9.
There exists a separate set of workers who are mainly involved for the pilot run process and for
this style 500 samples were generated during the pilot run.
The pilot batch ran for 500 pieces, 50 for each colour.
After pilot run, buyer QA checked the garment w.r.t. the following criterias:
Shade matching
Garment components.
Voluminous of the garment
Trims location and placement type
Trimming
Page 93
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Stains
Pen/pencil marks
Needle holes
Physical damages in the fabric
After buyer approval, process of ordering for the raw materials and planning for the
manufacturing happened simultaneously.
CAD dept:
This was done in Shahi faridabad. These patterns were received in unit -7,
Bangalore (CAD Room).
Order quantity
Navy/ fuchsia plaid
veridian green plaid
Black/ECRU plaid
ECRU multi plaid
Black/ purple plaid
Snowdrift multi plaid
Tango red plaid
Chocolate chip/ pink
Bayou blue carbaret
Bayou blue W/ str sky
total
s
2610
1782
2750
2408
504
414
590
1094
2412
198
14762
m
4860
3348
5266
4654
954
882
1162
2098
3960
360
27544
l
5274
3618
5536
4906
1080
936
1198
2224
482
414
29668
Sizes
xl
3096
2088
3182
2750
666
612
680
1256
2988
252
17570
1x
2412
1656
2588
2336
468
414
536
1022
1800
180
13412
total
18252
12492
19322
17054
3672
3258
4166
7694
15642
1404
102956
Page 94
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Fabric details:
Body fabric
Fabrication type
Woven
Dye method
Package(yarn or beam)
Poplin
Wash
Sand Wash
Fabric content
100% cotton
Epi
124
Material supplier
Vardhman
Ppi
64
Machinery
description
DNLS(UBT)
SNLS(UBT)
SNLS(EC)
5 thread OVERLOCK
TABLES
IRON TABLES
Total no. of m/c
Reqd. no.
3
39
6
4
8
4
56
Skill grade
summary
A
B
C
total
No. of
operators
8
44
4
56
helper
ironer
9
4
Page 95
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Washing details:Sl.
1.
2.
pH
time
6
5.5
2
15
Chemical
name
Water
Water
Acetic
acid
Ultrafluid
G101
Supersoft
NUSflake
dosag
e
.50
Dos.
type
OTH
OTH
%
Amount in
kgs
420.000
262.000
0.263
3.00
1.575
4.00
2.100
Page 96
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Appendixes
Page 97
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Appendix I
Company Profile
COMPANY
Year of Established
Annual Turnover (Rs. In crores)
Proprietary/Partner./Pvt. Ltd.
Export/Dom/Both./100%EOU
In house /Fabrication/Both
Total Covered Area Sq. ft.
Total Workforce
Organisation Pattern
Owner
General Manager
Factory Manager
Production manager
CUTTING Dept.
Production Manager
Pattern Master
Cutting Master/Asst.
Workers / Helpers
Shopfloor area
Mr. Nagrajan M
Mr. Maneesh
Mr.Ramachandra
29-May
55,000 sqr ft
SEWING Dept.
Production manager
Asst. P.M./Supervisor
Asst.Supervisor
Operators
Helpers
Shopfloor area
Packing Dept
Production manager
Operators
Helpers
Shop floor area
Facility
Page 98
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Appendix II
Spreading Department (Capacity Study)
Page 99
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Page 100
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Page 101
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Page 102
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Theory:
Changeover time: A changeover is the complete process of changing between the
manufacture of one product to the manufacture of an alternative product to the point of meeting
specified production and quality rates.
Changeover time = Setup time + Startup time
Run-down period: It is the interval when production of old is complete but set up for new
product cannot be started as some of the pieces of old product are inline for alterations or
waiting for some parts/trims.
Set-up period: It is defined as interval when no manufacturing occurs. In this phase, the
equipments are being adjusted to manufacture new product. This interval is critical, because
there is no output from the line, and potential revenues are lost. The time to adjust or replace
machine parts to accommodate the new product.
Run-up period: It starts when production is commenced again and continues until consistent
output at full capacity occurs. It is often difficult to determine at what point full production
capacity is reached as the line performance is still fluctuating at this time.
Observations:
WEDNESDAY: 29TH JUNE
On 29th June, 823 garments of Sabrina style were produced. The efficiency of the batch was
78.58%. There were no internal changes but external changes were taking place. For the new
style Andrea, 3 machines were set parallel to the batch for research and development purpose.
PINTUCK MACHINE
SNLS
SNLS (EC)
Initially it was decided to work on 10 pieces but 30 pieces were wasted and were sent for rework
the next day.
THURSDAY: 30TH JUNE
On Thursday, 789 pieces of Sabrina style were produced. The efficiency of the batch was
76.05%. One worker was working in line, ripping the pin tucks. As there was problem with the
pin tuck machine, the supervisor was setting the pin tuck machine and simultaneously two
Page 103
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
PRODUCTION
EFFICIENCY
4TH JULY
5TH JULY
6TH JULY
7TH JULY
8TH JULY
9TH JULY
12TH JULY
13TH JULY
14TH JULY
40
146
240
207
350
359
152
357
352
4.52
15.56
25.92
23.15
38.38
37.18
18.07
45.11
45.39
AVERAGE
EFFICIENCY
4.52
10.04
15.33
17.28
21.56
24.11
23.25
25.98
28.14
Page 104
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
The setting of the pin tuck machine took almost a day, leading to rework of around 35
pieces.
The setting of the pin tuck machine took a complete day. The operator was given 10
pieces for research and development purpose but due to uneven thread tension in
needles it lead to the rework of almost 35 pieces.
SOLUTION: Setting and testing of the pin tuck machine using waste fabric of similar
type this would eliminate the rework.
Fabric handling
Some workers faced problems in material handling .The operators also faced problems
in attaching the parts with pin tuck to other garment parts.
SOLUTION: The operators can be giving some practice on the fabric of similar kind
during the set-up and rundown time as they were ideal.
Garment piece measurements
There was problem with the measurement of certain garment parts. Eg
The front panel of the shirt was big and an extra machine was set to recut the panel.
SOLUTION: Such measurements should be looked into during the sampling of the
garment and the patterns should be prepared accordingly.
Page 105
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Results:
RUN-DOWN PERIOD
SET-UP PERIOD:
INTERNAL CHANGES
EXTERNAL CHANGES
RUN-UP PERIOD
Set-up period:
a) Internal Activities
Set-up of machines
Training of operator
b) External Activities:
Line Plan
Operation Bulletin revised on basis of Line Plan
Mock Sample By supervisor- Critical operation, Method Details
M/C Plan-M/C type, SPI, Folder, Required setting
Status Check- Status of cutting, Trims
Page 106
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
PRODUCTION
OF OLD STYE
EFFICINECY OF
OLD STYLE
823
78.58
789
76.05
481
45.50
PRODUCTIO
N OF NEW
STYLE
EFFICINEC
Y OF NEW
STYLE
11
1.24
40
4.52
CHANGES
EXTERNAL
CHANGES
EXTERNAL
CHANGES;
LOADING OF
PARTS
EXTERNAL
AND
INTERNAL
CHANGES
EXTERNAL
AND
INTERNAL
CHNAGES
EXTERNAL
AND
INTERNAL
CHNAGES
Suggestions:
Following are some of the steps that can be taken to reduce the setup time:
Convert internal changes to external changes:
Where ever possible the internal changes should be minimized and external changes
should be maximized. The machines should be setup externally such as gauge change,
folder, presser foot, spi etc. and then introduced in the line.
Perform parallel operations:
Parallel operations should be performed in the line i.e. the head-tailors and the
maintenance department should work simultaneously on different machines instead of
working on one machine.
Same operators for similar operations:
If there are similar operations in the new and old style the same operator should be used
for similar operations as this will reduce the run-up time and increase the efficiency.
Check the templates and folders:
The stencils and folders used should be checked beforehand externally for dimensions,
accuracy and stitches.
Page 107
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Ladder efficiency is calculated to observe and measure the variation in efficiency if there is
some change introduced.
Observations
BATCH: 5 AND 6
Page 108
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Date
27/05/201
1
28/05/201
1
30/05/201
1
31/05/201
1
Manpowe
r
Present
SAM
60
29.4
9
54
29.4
9
53
29.4
9
60
29.4
9
29.4
9
29.4
9
29.4
9
29.4
9
29.4
9
29.4
9
29.4
9
29.4
9
29.4
9
29.4
9
60
29.4
9
60
29.4
9
56
01/06/11
54
02/06/11
58
03/06/11
57
04/06/11
58
06/06/11
55
07/06/11
57
08/06/11
55
09/06/11
56
10/06/11
60
11/06/11
13/06/201
1
14/06/201
1
Targe
t
809
809
809
Blocked
efficienc
y
63%
63%
63%
Target at
blocked
efficienc Outpu
y
t
LOADIN
G
Efficienc
y
856
84.09%
814
678
67.91%
631
598
61.10%
669
550
52.03%
646
819
77.48%
526
642
642
642
809
63%
642
809
63%
642
720
66.87%
557
809
63%
642
642
658
67.90%
834
809
63%
642
800
78.59%
965
642
720
65.10%
629
796
71.34%
150
680
59.89%
722
651
59.92%
563
773
71.80%
800
755
70.77%
588
703
69.06%
1024
656
64.44%
624
809
63%
809
63%
809
63%
642
809
63%
642
809
63%
642
809
63%
642
809
63%
642
809
809
63%
63%
642
642
Page 109
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
90.00%
80.00%
70.00%
60.00%
50.00%
40.00%
EFFICIENCY
30.00%
TARGET EFFICIENCY
20.00%
10.00%
11/ 6/ 2011
10/ 6/ 2011
9/ 6/ 2011
8/ 6/ 2011
7/ 6/ 2011
6/ 6/ 2011
4/ 6/ 2011
3/ 6/ 2011
2/ 6/ 2011
1/ 6/ 2011
0.00%
Observations
Absenteeism of operators
Improper loading.
Alterations or rework due to quality issues.
Personal issues of operators
BATCH: 3 AND 4
Page 110
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
OPR
Date
SAM
04/05/11
26.13
05/05/11
31
26.13
06/05/11
32
26.13
07/05/11
32
26.13
09/05/11
33
26.13
10/05/11
31
26.13
11/05/11
32.5
26.13
12/05/11
34
26.13
13/05/2011
31
26.13
14/05/2011
25
26.13
16/05/2011
26
26.13
17/05/2011
26
26.13
18/05/2011
27
26.13
19/05/2011
28
26.13
20/05/2011
26
26.13
21/05/2011
26.5
26.13
Target
Blocked
efficiency
Target at
blocked
efficiency
LOADING
Output
Efficiency
2.30%
800
169
19.43%
123
339
36.93%
320
585
63.73%
640
545
59.37%
640
560
61.00%
560
651
70.00%
836
651
610
61.59%
651
700
74.30%
800
655
82.16%
800
655
79.75%
560
600
73.05%
690
520
61.50%
493
630
76.70%
625
604
73.54%
509
550
65.99%
724
930
70%
651
930
70%
651
930
70%
651
930
70%
651
930
70%
651
930
70%
930
70%
651
651
930
70%
930
70%
930
70%
651
930
70%
651
930
70%
651
930
70%
651
930
70%
651
930
70%
651
930
70%
651
Page 111
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
90.00%
80.00%
70.00%
60.00%
50.00%
40.00%
30.00%
20.00%
10.00%
0.00%
EFFICIENCY
4/ 5/ 2011
5/ 5/ 2011
6/ 5/ 2011
7/ 5/ 2011
9/ 5/ 2011
10/ 5/ 2011
11/ 5/ 2011
12/ 5/ 2011
13/ 05/ 2011
14/ 05/ 2011
16/ 05/ 2011
17/ 05/ 2011
18/ 05/ 2011
19/ 05/ 2011
20/ 05/ 2011
21/ 05/ 2011
TARGET EFFICIENCY
Suggestions
Targets for few initial days when new style is added to the batch can be set based on the data
which explains the efficiency ladder when new style is introduced until it reaches its blocked
efficiency in 4-5 days depending on the complexity of the style.
CASE 3: efficiency variation when new style is introduced but operation is same.
BUYER: TOMMY
BATCH: 5 AND 6
Page 112
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Date
21/05/2011
46.5
29.49
23/05/2011
44.5
29.49
24/05/2011
43.5
29.49
25/05/2011
45.5
29.49
26/05/2011
46
29.49
27/05/2011
47
29.49
28/05/2011
46
29.49
30/05/2011
45
29.49
31/05/2011
49
29.49
01/06/11
49
29.49
02/06/11
50
29.49
03/06/11
49.5
29.49
04/06/11
47
29.49
06/06/11
51.5
29.49
07/06/11
52
29.49
08/06/11
53
29.49
Target
809
809
809
809
809
809
809
809
809
809
809
809
809
809
809
809
Blocked
efficiency
63%
63%
63%
63%
63%
63%
Target at blocked
efficiency
642
642
642
642
642
LOADING
Output
Efficiency
443
42.30%
406
689
68.34%
824
509
51.49%
676
634
61.69%
814
585
58.60%
430
856
84.09%
814
63%
642
642
678
67.91%
631
63%
642
598
61.10%
669
63%
642
550
52.03%
646
819
77.48%
526
720
66.87%
557
658
67.90%
834
800
78.59%
965
720
65.10%
629
796
71.34%
150
680
59.89%
722
63%
63%
63%
63%
63%
63%
63%
642
642
642
642
642
642
642
Page 113
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
90.00%
80.00%
70.00%
60.00%
50.00%
40.00%
30.00%
20.00%
10.00%
0.00%
EFFICIENCY
8/ 6/ 2011
7/ 6/ 2011
6/ 6/ 2011
4/ 6/ 2011
3/ 6/ 2011
2/ 6/ 2011
1/ 6/ 2011
TARGET EFFICIENCY
Suggestions:
Operators should be given similar operations as they were performing in the previous
style.
Batch layout should be maintained similar with some necessary changes by adding and
elimination of certain operations to save batch setting time.
For the style Sabrina an operator named Shanti was doing the operation of collar run stitch.
After the style change for the first few days Shanti was doing the collar run stitch and then a
new operator named Gurlakshmi was doing the operation of collar run stitch. The previous
operator produced 65 to 75 pieces per hour in a day.
OLD OPERATOR NAME: SHANTI
Page 114
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
DAY
1
SAM
0.58
TARGET AT
BLOCKED
BLOCKED
TARGET EFFICIENCY EFFICIENCY
776
70
543
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
0.58
0.58
0.58
0.58
0.58
0.58
0.58
0.58
776
776
776
776
776
776
776
776
70
70
70
70
70
70
70
70
543
543
543
543
543
543
543
543
OUTPUT
320
EFFICIENCY
41.24%
340
334
450
480
432
467
490
560
43.81%
43.04%
57.98%
61.85%
55.67%
60.18%
63.14%
72.16%
80.00%
70.00%
60.00%
50.00%
40.00%
EFFICIENCY
30.00%
TARGET EFFICIENCY
20.00%
10.00%
0.00%
1
Observation
Whenever a new operator is given some operation, he takes time to settle to that
operation.
Time taken by the operator is generally 2-3 days until he reaches maximum efficiency
depending upon the operators skills.
Suggestions
Absenteeism is needed to be minimized so that operators are not required to move from
one operation to another.
Operators should be skillful in more than one operation so that they perform well and
can be utilized for other operations.
Page 115
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Projects
Page 116
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
18.0 Project I
Objective: To develop a database for monitoring the breakdown of the critically broken down
machines and finding a solution for the next monitoring dates/schedule.
Requirement: Improvements in current ERP required for the better tracking of maintenance
scheduling and prior report generation of the schedules for easy access.
Software used: Relational database management system i.e. Microsoft office access 2007.
VB.NET end with SQL applications.
Concept: The main idea is to keep an eye on the complex machines those show frequent break
down and create a database for the machines that has been maintained. This will help the
department to analyze the frequency and cause of the machine breakdown. Some additional
features can be added to the database in order to track the location of the machine, history of
maintenance on the particular machine etc. The main aim to create a pre defined schedule as
per the requirement of the department for each and every machine. It should act as a daily alert
for the routine checking of the particular machines on a particular date.
Page 117
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
A relational DBMS stores information in a set of "tables", each of which has a unique identifier
or "primary key". The tables are then related to one another using "foreign keys". A foreign
key is simply the primary key in a different table. Diagrammatically, a foreign key is depicted as
a line with an arrow at one end.
In the example below, "Customer ID" is the primary key (PK) in one table and the foreign key
(FK) in another. The arrow represents a one-to-many relationship between the two tables. The
relationship indicates that one customer can have one or more orders. A given order, however,
can be initiated by one and only one customer.
By storing data in a RDBMS, undesirable data redundancy can be avoided. This not only
makes data management easier, but it also makes for a flexible database that can respond to
changing requirements.
18.1.a Features of RDBMS:
Page 118
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Next is the categorization of maintenance policy. Different types of policies that have been
taken care of here are- Monthly maintenance, Quarterly maintenance, Yearly
Page 119
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
This switch board will give the operator some specific set of predefined forms that has to be
filled during different operations. The forms are
Page 120
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
When an operator clicks on any of the item it will go to the respective form for further entry
and modification. But when the operator clicks on the report section it redirects the page to a
new switch board which gives the options for displaying all the reports.
The reports generated by the database are:
Machine List
Machine status
Machine maintenance history
Total maintenance schedule
Todays Maintenance schedule
Data Type
Machine ID (Primary)
Text
Machine Name
Text
Department
Location
Make
Text
Page 121
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Text
Purchase Year
Number
Life time
Number
Last maintenance
Date/Time
Valid Till
Date/Time
There are some buttons given on the sides of the form to make the operations easier. They
are described below:
Function
Save Record
New Record
Delete Record
Find Record
Print Record
Print Table
Next Record
To go to next record
Previous Record
To go to previous record
Print Record
Open Report
Close Form
It Saves the data in the machine list table and all the data can be entered in the table directly
also but it is not advised to do so as the table is not easily understandable by all operators.
This form generates a report too in order to have a look on the total machine list with details.
The data field required in the report can be edited as per the end usage.
Page 122
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Data Type
Text
Department
Location
Date Issued
Date Returned
Tick box
Page 123
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
The buttons given for the additional usage are the same like the machine entry form.
It stores data from the respective table and generates report too as and when required.
18.3.c MACHINE SATTUS FORM:
This form requires and displays data about the machine status and whether its working or not
or needed any remarks or measures.
The particulars to be filled in this form are:
Field Name
Machine ID (Primary)
Data Type
Text
Department
Location
Status
Text box
Remark
Text box
Page 124
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Again the entries in the table are saved in the concerned table and the buttons are all the same
as machine entry form and machine movement form.
It generates a report named machine status report.
Page 125
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Field Name
Machine ID (Primary)
Data Type
Text
Department
Location
Type of maintenance
Next Schedule
Date/Time
Page 126
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
This form also features the same type of buttons for better and easy execution of command as
described in the previous forms. It generates a report that shows the future maintenance
activities with date.
Page 127
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
The screen shows a form and a query sharing single window screen and displays only those
machines which are to be maintained on that day only.
Page 128
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Data Type
Text
Department
Location
Type of maintenance
Date
Status
Date/Time
Text box
It has the same buttons for additional features. It generates a report named Machine history
report card for all the machines maintenance and other details.
Page 129
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Page 130
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Strength
Weakness
User Friendly
Local network
Low Cost
Yet to be online
Easy Updation
Less
detailed
process
than
the
Opportunity
Threat
Other
ERP
which
has
more
Adaptability is more.
Page 131
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Serial Number
Part number (Technical details)
Description (Name)
Code (For easy filtering)
Machine Model (Model Number)
Page 132
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
All the spares and items are entered in the description filed.
The total amount of the spare in the store is entered in the respective field. When ever a
new entry comes we need to put the amount in the respective cell.
The next thing that needs to be done is when any amount of folder/spare is issued to a line,
the operator just need to put the amount on the concerned batch/line. The predefined value
of issued folder in batch is 0. So when we change it to any number other than 0 it will do a
conditional formatting and changes the color of the cell automatically. It helps for easy
identification of the lines which have been allotted with the spare.
Now the total column in each floor will automatically calculate the total amount of the
particular spare issued on that floor. It will be done by an embedded mathematical function.
The issued stock will be the addition of all the stocks issued in each floor. It is also a simple
mathematical function.
The issued stock will be deducted from the total stack and display the on-hand stock.
The above discussed is the standard operating procedure for the excel sheet database.
Page 133
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Page 134
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
An additional feature of color change formatting is done to easily identify the issued lines.
A traffic light system is developed for the on hand stock. It shows GREEN LIGHT when on
hand stock is more than 20 (i.e. we have enough stock), ORANGE LIGHT, when stock is
between 10-20 (i.e. our stock is going to exhaust soon), RED LIGHT, when we have on
hand stock less than 10 (i.e. our stock is almost exhausted and we need to order more from
central warehouse).
Embedded mathematical formulas. No need to calculate each time.
Easy to enter in cells.
Auto calculation of all stocks.
Conditional cell color formatting.
Traffic Light system for asset management.
Easy editable features.
Easy addition of rows and columns.
Page 135
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Strength
Weakness
User Friendly
Easy to Enter
NO proper security
Threat
Opportunity
More Tables can be added easily.
Other
ERP
which
has
more
excel format.
the
greatest
threats
towards
this
effort.
Page 136
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Name:
Sumathi S
Designation:
Rate these following parameters as per your satisfaction. 1 is worst and 5 is best.
Overall appearance.
2
User friendliness.
2
Page 137
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Equipment history.
Customizable screen.
Report Generation.
Security.
Connectivity.
Updating.
Signature: Sumathi S
Date: 07.07.2011
Page 138
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
The spare register database has some specific features and functionalities in relation with
spare tracking and report generation.
Whenever the data base is opened it shows a predefined macro that display the main forms
and reports on the front page.
Issue Form
Return Form
Folder Form
Location Form
Report Form
Exit
Page 139
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Field Name
Data Type
Selection Frame
CODE
Text
Description
Available quantity
Received quantity
Number
Page 140
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Once a consignment is received from the head office it should be entered in the folder form.
If it is a new item the selection box should be clicked on new item. Then the particulars to be
If it is and existing item and the factory receives some more quantity then the option existing
item should be selected and the proper code and description of tem has to be selected.
Now it will sow automatically the available quantity from an embedded re query option that
has been pre defined.
Once the new received quantity is entered and the data is updated and the new stock
amount is automatically added into base field table.
It will create a pop-up stating that record has been saved in the table.
There are few additional buttons to help the operations. These are discusses as below:
Page 141
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Function
Save
Update
Edit
Delete
Find
Issue it
Open report
Mail Report
Close
Quit
Quit Application
Page 142
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Data Type
ID
Auto number
ISSUE/RETURN
Predefined
CODE
DESCRIPTION
LOCATION
FLOOR
TOTAL QUANTITY
ISSUED QUANTITY
QUANTITY TO BE ISSUED
Number
PERSON
Text
DATE
Date/Time
TIME
Date/Time
REMARKS
Text box
Page 143
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
ID here will act as job number and it will generate an automatic id for each and every issue
for easy reference.
The next option to be filled is the CODE of the item. It is a drop down box here we need to
select from existing codes.
The description of all the items from the specific code needs to be selected from the drop
down box and as it is a re-query macro it will show only those descriptions which are falling
under the particular code.
Next is to select to which batch it has been allocated. It will automatically fill the floor from
the location table.
Once the CODE and DSCRIPTION is entered it will show the total quantity and previously
issued quantity in the respective fields and the macro will calculated the available quantity
Function
Shows the details of previous issues of same spare parts
Save
Update
Edit
Delete
Find
Return it
Open report
Mail Report
Close
Quit
Quit Application
Page 144
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Page 145
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
The operator has to select the location or the batch from the drop down box. It will display all the
folders issued to the batch.
Select the item that has been issued. It will show the issued quantity and return quantity will be
entered in the row below it.
If the return quantity is not equal to the issued quantity then a pop up will verify whether this
amount is correct is not.
Once this is entered the item will be again re stored in the store keeping unit. The total on hand
stock will be automatically increased there. Remarks can be stored here too.
Page 146
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
In case you want the report in order of jb number/ID, here you can generate that too.
If a report needed for a particular product that can be done in second box.
If a record needed for a particular time period that also can be done.
Page 147
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Page 148
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
No Duplicity.
Data redundancy.
Page 149
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Strength
Weakness
User Friendly
Local network
Low Cost
Yet to be online
Easy Updation
Less
LAN connectivity
detailed
process
than
the
Report generation
Opportunity
Threat
Other
ERP
which
has
more
Adaptability is more.
Page 150
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Name:
Designation:
Maintenance Manager
Rate these following parameters as per your satisfaction. 1 is worst and 5 is best.
Overall appearance.
2
User friendliness.
2
Page 151
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Equipment history.
Customizable screen.
Report Generation.
Security.
Connectivity.
Updating.
Page 152
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Production
1st Floor
700
850
600
550
325
550
800
875
425
800
925
Production
2nd Floor
1700
1800
1788
1721
1650
1150
1600
1500
1800
2000
2150
Production
3rd Floor
2500
2400
2250
1505
2225
2000
2000
2300
2500
2500
2500
Production
4th Floor
2618
2580
2212
3350
3150
3250
3275
3400
3425
3225
3400
Total Feed
to Buttoning Section
7518
7630
6850
7126
7350
6950
7675
8075
8150
8525
8975
Total Production of KAJA button section during the same time period:
Date
09.06.2011
10.06.2011
11.06.2011
13.06.2011
14.06.2011
15.06.2011
16.06.2011
17.06.2011
Production
1st Floor
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
Production
2nd Floor
1940
0
0
0
0
0
875
1435
Production
3rd Floor
1365
2535
2365
3245
3335
1248
3630
3135
Production
4th Floor
2000
2000
2435
2341
6420
3459
5700
4250
Total Feed
to Washing
5305
4535
4800
5586
9755
4707
10205
8820
Page 153
0
0
0
1000
1550
1490
3135
3090
2567
3900
2860
4508
8035
7500
8565
09.06.2011
10.06.2011
11.06.2011
13.06.2011
14.06.2011
15.06.2011
16.06.2011
17.06.2011
18.06.2011
20.06.2011
21.06.2011
WIP in KAJA
2213
3095
2050
1540
-2405
2243
-2530
-745
115
1025
410
(Batches)
84824
Diff.
Total in 10 days
(KAJA)
77813
7011
This shows highly unstable and unsynchronized production rate of the production floor and
buttoning section.
Similarly the same study was conducted for the snap buttons also. The data is given below:
The total number of shirts that has been produced during the time period that requires snap
button are,
Page 154
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Date
09.06.2011
10.06.2011
11.06.2011
13.06.2011
14.06.2011
15.06.2011
16.06.2011
17.06.2011
18.06.2011
20.06.2011
21.06.2011
Date
Production
1st Floor
1600
1600
2020
2200
550
2458
1800
1990
2245
2168
2234
Production
2nd Floor
09.06.2011
10.06.2011
11.06.2011
13.06.2011
14.06.2011
15.06.2011
16.06.2011
17.06.2011
18.06.2011
20.06.2011
21.06.2011
Output of floor
1045
1205
1280
1708
2375
2278
1375
1560
1665
1580
1571
Output of snap
(Batches)
20865
Diff.
Total in 10 days
(SNAP)
17642
3223
Page 155
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Page 156
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
ii)
Material storing and holding cost for the left over items.
iii)
Before shipment the overtime done by the workers involves more money (double).
iv)
20.3 Suggestion:
The suggestion is to implement buttoning machines of required number in the sewing batch itself so
that these additional costs will be eliminated. There are total 32 batches in the entire factory and if all
the finishing machines can be accommodated in the batches then it would be 64 machines in total
which can be adjusted as the machinery flow is centralized for all the units in Bengaluru. The additional
workers can be utilized by other departments and the end line quality checker will be inspecting the
output of the finishing machines also. So we suggest online implementation of buttoning machines in
this unit.
Page 157
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Capacity =
21. 1 SOLUTION:
We created an excel sheet which utilizes this simple formula and automatically generates the required
output like number of days required to complete the job, lines required etc.
Page 158
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Order Quantity
Page 159
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
21.1.d ADVANTAGES:
Saves time.
21.2
Accurate.
If connected with and database management systems like MS ACCESS then can be used to track
As discussed in previous part the production planning can be calculated and effective date sheet can
be prepared for the master production schedule.
It is noted that when a new style is being introduced the exact efficiency cannot be achieved on the first
day itself. As the style and its construction is new it always takes some time for the operators to get
used to the sewing. It is believed that it always takes few days for the operators to achieve the
maximum efficiency. In this time period the efficiency is known as ladder efficiency. . And it is also
believed that the day when maximum on date efficiency is achieved from that day only the quality is
stabilized. Thus it affects the master production schedule as for the starting few days the production is
definitely low. So it needs to be monitored and categorized style wise for future reference.
Page 160
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Day
1
2
3
4
5
Efficiency
On date
31
80
80
80
80
Efficiency
Cumulative
31
56
64
68
70
Page 161
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
90
80
70
60
50
Efficiency
40
Efficency
30
20
10
0
1
Day
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Efficiency
On date
21
42
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
Efficiency
Cumulative
21
32
48
56
61
64
58
68
69
70
Page 162
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
90
80
70
60
50
Efficiency
40
Efficency
30
20
10
0
1
10
11
Day
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
Efficiency
On date
10
21
47
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
Efficiency
Cumulative
10
16
26
40
48
53
50
60
62
64
65
67
68
68
Page 163
384
384
384
4982
5366
5750
80
80
80
69
70
70
90
80
70
60
50
Efficiency
40
Efficency
30
20
10
0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18
Day
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Efficiency
On date
10
21
42
63
80
80
80
80
80
Efficiency
Cumulative
10
16
24
34
43
49
47
57
60
Page 164
384
384
384
384
384
384
384
384
384
384
2957
3341
3725
4109
4493
4877
5261
5645
6029
6413
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
62
63
65
66
67
68
69
69
70
70
90
80
70
60
50
Efficiency
40
Efficency
30
20
10
0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
Page 165
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Page 166
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Sampling department
Planning department
Production department
Embroidery department
Quality Assurance
Human Resource
Cutting department
IED department
Washing department
Finishing Department
Maintenance Department
Ground floor Fabric store, Embroidery, Cutting, Sampling and administrative office.
We also studied the machinery and equipments, man power, capacity etc.
The application of industrial engineering was most useful to us as we did capacity study for
spreading and cutting, elemental break down for production floor etc.
Accordingly, we gave some suggestions to improve the current working method and increase the
productivity.
More over the entire internship time period was divided effectively in accordance with the availability
of the concerned person and other factors like buyer meetings, audits etc.
This was an abundant and knowledge gaining experience for all of us.
Page 168
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Thank You
Page 169
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur