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hemming jeans

with designer style


by nancy minsky
author of “denim revolution: dozens of ways to turn
denim cast-offs into fashion must-haves
remake cast-off jeans”
http://21centurydressmakers.blogspot.com

Every pair of jeans, new or old, ends with a


cuff, with distinctive denim details and
characteristics. So, if jeans need to be
shorted they should to be hemmed in a
manner that is durable, invisible and does
not change the style or look of the jeans.

The hemming technique on the following


pages is designed especially for denim. It is
named for your eyes only due to how it
blends so seamlessly, that only the
seamstress knows it’s there.

As you will discover, it is simple and easy


to complete or, if you’re not a seamstress,
then to explain, to the person who will
shorten your jeans.
for your eyes only
a technique to seamlessly shorten and hem your jeans

the jean dilemma


You have a pair of jeans that have a special worn effect, and fit you perfectly in all ways, except – they
are too long and need to be hemmed. Since you certainly don’t want to walk around with a glaringly
“ohh, you shortened your jeans” look, you need a hemming technique that will blend seamlessly with
the existing, worn cuff.

the cure
The hemming technique is easy, but different from how pants are usually hemmed. Just follow the easy
steps and special notations to achieve a beautiful alteration.

the sewing materials


- two sewing threads, one color that matches with the denim at the jean cuff on the outside and another
color that matches the backside;
- general sewing materials including: scissors, straight pins, sewing machine with a “denim sewing
needle”, a pencil or tailor’s chalk, tape measure, ruler, iron, seam ripper.

step-by-step how-to-do-it
- Press your jeans.

- Mark the new length and measure the excess.


note: A common mistake is hemming jeans too short. Keep in mind that denim is cotton and it
shrinks. It takes a few wash and dry cycles before they stop shrinking and the length stabilizes.

- (Photo on left) Cut the cuffs off,


¾” above the cuff topstitching
detail.

- Allowing for a ¾” seam


allowance on the leg, calculate
the excess (adding the cuff, and
subtracting the seam allowances.)
Then with a ruler and tailor’s
chalk, mark the cutting line on the
leg and cut off excess.

2
- Thread your sewing machine, with the color of the right side in the needle, and the other color in the
bobbin.

- With right side up, zigzag finish the raw edges on the cuff and the leg, twice around.

- Trim any dangly denim threads.

- Slide the cuff over the leg, align the cut edges together with right sides facing each other. Gently ease
together so side seams are aligned and pin.
note: Sometimes due to the amount you have shortened your jeans or the curve of the shape of
the leg, you may need to adjust the leg shape in order for it to fit smoothly into the cuff. If this is
necessary, open the outer leg seam, pin to reshape it to fit the cuff, and re-stitch the side seam
closed.

- (Photo on left) using a zipper foot, sew


with a straight stitch and 5/8’ seam
allowance, just above the edge of the
original cuff.

- Press seam, with seam allowance up.

- (Photo on left) with right side up,


topstitch ¼” above the original cuff
topstitching.

3
(Above photo) a view of the clean finish of the inside.

You’re finished!

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