Homemade 100 HP Motor Controller For An Electric Car

Homemade 100 HP Motor Controller for an Electric Car
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This instructable explains how to build your own 100 HP (peak) motor controller
for use in an electric car or motorcycle conversion. It can take any voltage up to
144v, and the peak current is 500 amps. The cost of the components is a few
hundred dollars, which means you can save over $1000 by putting one together
yourself. At 144v, you can expect a top speed of around 75 MPH in a car.
Check out http://ecomodder.com/forum/open-revolt-open-source-dc-motorcontroller.html (http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-
http://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-100-HP-Motor-Controller-for-an-Electric-C/?ALLSTEPS
About This Instructable

178,972 views
License:
Page 1 of 29
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cheap-diy-144v-motor-controller-6404.html)
if you want to read about the whole story!
313 favorites
MPaulHolmes
(/member/MPaulHolmes/)
Experience in soldering is important. If you want to really keep costs down, a

mill is helpful, but that work can be outsourced to a local metal shop.
PCB & Printed

Electronics
goinsulectro.com
Insulectro is the leading distributor of

PCB & PE materials.
Website!
(http://www.paulandsabrinasevstuff.com)
Follow
53
Tags:
electric (/tag/type-id/category-workshop/keywordelectric/)
motor (/tag/type-id/category-workshop/keywordmotor/)
AC Motors &
Drives
controller (/tag/type-id/category-workshop/keywordcontroller/)
microcontroller (/tag/type-id/categoryworkshop/keyword-microcontroller/)
atmega168 (/tag/type-id/category-
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workshop/keyword-atmega168/)
car (/tag/type-id/category-workshop/keyword-car/)
fossil (/tag/type-id/category-workshop/keywordfossil/)
Step 1: Get/Make a power board and control board.
free (/tag/type-id/category-workshop/keyword-free/)
fuel (/tag/type-id/category-workshop/keyword-fuel/)
volt (/tag/type-id/category-workshop/keyword-volt/)
Related
Build your own Electric
Car! (/id/Build-your-ownElectric-Car/)
by bennelson
(/member/bennelson/)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F63/M1R9/GJ285ZEH/F63M1R9GJ285ZEH.LARGE.jpg)
Electric Vehicle - A simple

lightweight EV platform
(/id/Electric-Vehicle-Asimple-lightweight-EVplatform-/)
ApocalypsEV-1 for
Transportation
Independence
(/id/ApocalypsEV-1-forTransportationLight Electric Vehicle: OnePassenger @ 15mph, 210#
Curb Weight (/id/LightElectric-Vehicle-OnePassenger-14mph-21/)
The New and Improved
Brushless Electric Scooter
Power System Guide
(/id/The-New-andImproved-BrushlessSee More (/tag/type-id/?q=)
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/F3T/GDL1/GJ285ZFM/F3TGDL1GJ285ZFM.LARGE.jpg)
You are going to need a control board and etched power board. The power
board needs to be at least 3 ounce copper. Ebay is a good place to look for
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heavy cheap copper clad PCB. For example:

http://cgi.ebay.com/25-shts-Copper-Clad-Laminate-FR-4-060-9-x-12-3oz/310244821519?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item483c084a0f
(http://cgi.ebay.com/25-shts-Copper-Clad-Laminate-FR-4-060-9-x-12-3oz/310244821519?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item483c084a0f)
You could print the picture from this link and somehow transfer it onto a piece of
heavy blank PCB, and etch it with a dremel if you have a ver y steady hand.
The dimensions are 8"x6". This link also has the G-code that you can use
to etch with a CNC mill or you could give the G-code to a machine shop.
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Fab_Files
(http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Fab_Files)
Picture 2 and 3 below is an example of an early power board I made with a
Dremel.
You can get a control board from me or you can make the control board in your
favorite PCB layout software using the schematic here::
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/Cougar_Controller_Rev2C_Schematic.pdf
(http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/Cougar_Controller_Rev2C_Schematic.pdf)
And here are some pictures of the PCB layers:
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/bottom_layer_rev2C.pdf
(http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/bottom_layer_rev2C.pdf)
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/top_layer_rev2C.pdf
(http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/top_layer_rev2C.pdf)
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/component_layer_rev2C.pdf
(http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/component_layer_rev2C.pdf)
A predone control board is Picture 1.
Pictures 7 and 8 are the power board top and bottom. The 8 solder spots are
just where vias were added.
Once you have the 2 boards, you can go to step 2.
Step 2: Drill your metals and isolation strips
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Materials:
1/4" x 3/4" x 12" C110 copper bar.
Two 3/16" x 3/4" x 10" C110 copper bars.
3/4" x 1.5" x 8" aluminum bar.
3/8" x 8" x 11" aluminum plate.
3/16" x 3/4" x 8" steel bar.
Two 1/16" x 3/4" x 8" unclad FR4 used in making PCB.
1/16" x 6" x 8" unclad FR4 board.
5/16" drill bit (or 3/8" drill bit if you need slop)
1/8" drill bit.(http://cdn.instructables.com/FG2/R03J/GJ27ZL4F/FG2R03JGJ27ZL4F.LARGE.jpg)
3/16" drill bit. (Must allow a #6 screw to fit through)
Drill.
Drill Press.
Do all the drilling! It may help to take the big aluminum bar to a machine shop,
since it's not easy drilling through 1.5" of aluminum accurately. See all the
pictures below for notes on hole locations and drill bit sizes.
Here's a video on how the power section pieces all get bolted together, without
the electronics attached, just so you can see how it all fits:
Safari Power Saver
Click to Start Flash Plug-in
Step 3: Order the electronic components
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/F75/ZW5A/GJ286020/F75ZW5AGJ286020.LARGE.jpg)
Order these components for the control board:

http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Control_board
(http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Control_board)
And order these components for the power section. If you have already bought
and drilled the metals on step 2, then don't reorder them. They are listed here
as well.
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Power_board
(http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Power_board)
Step 4: Solder the control board
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/F35/N8TP/GJ2860GU/F35N8TPGJ2860GU.LARGE.jpg)
Materials:
45 or 60 watt soldering iron.
0.032" diameter (or so) rosin core solder
This step takes about 3 or 4 hours. It's very unforgiving. If you have never
soldered before, you should get help with this. The ground plane doesn't have
"thermals", so it takes some heat to melt the solder to it. Check out this help file
for soldering the control board. See pages 2 through 19:
http://www.paulandsabrinasevstuff.com/EVstuff%20info/Kit%20Assembly%20Dir
ections%20Updated%20March%204,%202010.pdf
(http://www.paulandsabrinasevstuff.com/EVstuff%20info/Kit%20Assembly%20Di
rections%20Updated%20March%204,%202010.pdf)
Watch for solder bridges (when big globs of solder bridge isolation gaps). Also,
you may want to socket the ATMega168. You can program the ATMega168 insystem. So, you can solder it in, and then program it if you want to. Or you can
get one preprogrammed.
This video walks you through soldering the control board from start to finish:
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Safari Power Saver

Step 5: Program the ATMega168 Microcontroller
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FK6/5B5B/GJ28603Y/FK65B5BGJ28603Y.LARGE.jpg)
Once the ATMega168 arrives with all the other stuff, you need to program it with
the motor controller code. Either make your own code, or use/modify the code
below.
You can make a very cheap ATMega168 programmer, or buy an AVRISP MK2:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Cat=2621880&k=avrisp
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(http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Cat=2621880&k=avrisp)
And download the free AVR Studio development environment:
http://www.atmel.com/dyn/products/tools_card.asp?tool_id=2725
(http://www.atmel.com/dyn/products/tools_card.asp?tool_id=2725)
The hex file of the code is available here. Use "coug-unified-16k.hex":
http://www.adambrunette.com/firmware/cougar-v1.11b/hexfiles-m168/
(http://www.adambrunette.com/firmware/cougar-v1.11b/hexfiles-m168/)
Here's the code:
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Software
(http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Software)
The fuse bits are Extended High Low = F8 DC F7. But if you are using
Ponyprog, the fuse bits are 08 DC F7.
If you don't want to bother to program it yourself, then you can buy a
preprogrammed one.
Step 6: Assemble the Power Section
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There are quite a few parts to this process. The short version is, you need to
bolt together all of metal parts, and solder the 10 MOSFETs, 10 freewheel
diodes, 16 large electrolytic capacitors, and 3 snubber capacitors to the power
board. Please see pictures below and the assembly help file, pages 20 through
43 for all the gory details. You will need a 200 or 250w soldering gun:
Step 7: Mount the control section to the power section
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FGF/1GX5/GJ2830DB/FGF1GX5GJ2830DB.LARGE.jpg)
Homemade
100 HP Motor Controller for an Electric Car
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FCB/SY2U/GJ27Z2XN/FCBSY2UGJ27Z2XN.LARGE.jpg)
by MPaulHolmes
Download (/id/Homemade-100-HP-Motor-Controller-for-an-Electric-C/?download=pdf)
(/id/Homemade-100-HP-Motor-Controller-for-an-Electric-C/)
8 Steps
Collection
I Made it!
Favorite
Share
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FP8/NRTF/GJ289THQ/FP8NRTFGJ289THQ.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FUD/KRCM/GJ285O1A/FUDKRCMGJ285O1A.LARGE.jpg)
See this video for directions on how to mount the control board to the power
section. It also shows how to solder the gate resistors and the ground wires,
and how to mount an enclosure:
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FRA/LK0A/GJ289THO/FRALK0AGJ289THO.LARGE.jpg)
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Safari Power Saver

You can also check out pages 44-46 of the help file here:
Get Ready!!! There's only one more step!
Step 8: Drive Away!!!
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FXD/MHC7/GJ65ZHLR/FXDMHC7GJ65ZHLR.LARGE.jpg)
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Safari
Saver with my car at 72v. Notice that this one had all 3 copper bus
This isPower
me driving
Click
to
Start
Plug-in
bars comingFlash
out the
same way. That doesn't affect the functionality of the
controller.
And here's a video of Joe in Phoenix using that same controller at 144v:
Safari Power Saver
And here's Ben Nelson, the guy on here that made the plug-in hybrid, doing a
gravel burnout with his. He's always had a flair for the dramatic:
Page 19 of 29
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Safari Power Saver

Now go out and build one! Doing it yourself can save you over $1000.
We have a be nice comment policy.

Please be positive and constructive.
1-40
of 58
I Made it!
Add Images
Make Comment
Next (http://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-100-HP-Motor-Controller-for-an-Electric-C/?
&sort=ACTIVE&limit=40&offset=40#DISCUSS)
afbcom (/member/afbcom/)
3 years ago
Reply (CEMJ3DSGJ65MLTI)
Hey,
(/member/afbcom/)
Just a thought, you could eliminate a lot of voltage spike issues by mounting the
controller as close to the motor as possible. Any time the length of the wire
between the motor controller exceeds the diameter of the wire, the collapse
current becomes significant. Since Vpeak = di/dt, and you have a peak current of
~500 amps, if your switching time is <1ms which I'm guessing it is, this will result in
a spike of 500 000 volts! These voltage spikes can damage the control circuitry.
This is assuming that you are having voltage spike issues to begin with.
Regardless it is typically a good idea to mount the power control board as close as
possible to the motor.
-alex
MPaulHolmes (/member/MPaulHolmes/) (author)
afbcom
Page 20 of 29
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3 years ago
Reply (C92P10RGJ6EV9AU)
I've done some voltage spike tests, and at 500amp, the spikes are
about 20 or 25v, so it's not too bad. I'm using 200v components, so at
144v, I'm still a fair distance away from danger. The nice thing is,
under heavy current, the battery pack voltage sags, so the net result is
that the voltage spikes are about 20 or 25v above like 135v in the
worst case.
Tom Hargrave (/member/Tom+Hargrave/) MPaulHolmes

Reply (CSU3C3RI06J8CAD)
16 days ago
To clarify - 500KV spikes are real

open loop, where the
input impedance is very high.
You are are clamping the spikes
to 25V with your protection
circuit.
(/member/Tom+Hargrave/)
but only
Cool!
MPaulHolmes
3 years ago
Reply (C8TZVTDGJ6E8QQX)
(/member/afbcom/)
Not that I doubt you, but where are

you measuring the spikes. The ones
that I am referring to is the reverse
against the driving fets from the
motor and supply cables to it. If
you're getting results around 25 volts
then you have done a damm good
engineering job and kudos to you sir.
--alex
ps awesome response time

3 years ago
Hi afbcom! I measured the

voltage spikes from drain to
source of the mosfets. Every
time the mosfet turns off, the
voltage from drain to source
goes from nearly zero to full pack
voltage, and it wants to keep
going past pack voltage. I also
use some polypropylene metal
film capacitors to help snub the
spikes. My friend in Phoenix has
a video of the spikes on his
oscilloscope. I'll find it. When I
tested it in my car, I just used a
peak voltage detector (like a crab
trap. but instead of crabs, it traps
electrons. haha):
afbcom
Reply (C7GRT4YGJ6F694V)
Page 21 of 29
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Safari Power Saver

jerkey (/member/jerkey/)
MPaulHolmes
3 years ago
I can't see exactly where you're

(/member/jerkey/)connecting your measurement
probe, but it is necessary to
connect both the probe and the
ground as closely as possible
to the place you're actually
measuring, because
inductance is playing a huge
part in what you're dealing with,
and even an inch of wire can
have an effect. The voltage
spikes are a danger inside the
MOSFETs so thats where the
probe should be.
Reply (CHRKT1QGJHVGRCB)
Another issue is that the

voltage spikes are a result of
firing into a reactive load, which
is more like a motor prevented
from spinning. A freewheeling
motor (which I heard) will not
cause inductive kickback as
much as if you lock the parking
brake and do it, you should try
that.
A wise teacher of mine who
makes giant stepper-motor
controllers (and Aerco preamps) says that the key to
protecting your fets is a
combination of small and large
diodes (they have different
properties) and resistorcapacitor snubbers and most
importantly, MOV (Metal Oxide
Varistors) which are your first
Page 22 of 29
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line of defense.
But i definitely know that the
spikes are worst when the
motor is stalled.
acelondon (/member/acelondon/)
jerkey
3 years ago
In the EV community, we use

freewheeling diodes to take care of
(/member/acelondon/)
all the inductive kickback from the
motor. Ususally rated at LEAST the
same as the switching device. My
IGBT controller(inspired by Paul's
MOSFET controller) will be built for
1200 amps, with 1200 amps of
freewheeling diodes, AND be run at
750 amps. Should last a while XD
Reply (CQNNJ5GGMX1Q0IO)
It's my senior project for college.

Great excuse to rip around campus
with a less than legal electric car!

3 years ago
I didn't make that video. It was

actually my beta tester. I've done
testing with a locked rotor, and
the spikes were around 25v, at
least with my peak detector,
which was a diode and capacitor.
electrons could get in and not
back out. That was the crab trap
I was referring to above. A
locked rotor has almost no
resistance, so the current is
huge, and the voltage spike is
di/dt*L_stray, so a larger change
in current definitely gives a larger
voltage spike. The nice thing is,
there may be optimal ways of
doing things, but his controller
has run for over a year and a half
in sometimes 110 degree
weather and it's still going
strong, and that was not
withstanding my crappy
assembly process, since it was
the first or 2nd one I put together.
MPaulHolmes
3 years ago
This just goes to that what you read

in a textbook doesn't necessarily
(/member/afbcom/)
apply to the real world! Nice scope.
There are commercial products that
aren't as well designed as yours...
friggin cool!
jerkey
Reply (C9IEWTOGJHVL8JE)
Reply (C0SHO2DGJ6E8SF8)
Page 23 of 29
10/3/14, 9:47 PM
killersquirel11 (/member/killersquirel11/) MPaulHolmes

Reply (CVKOEP5GJ7MGZC5)
3 years ago
You could also include a TVS

protect against the
spikes if they are too large
diode to
(/member/killersquirel11/)

3 years ago
Hi Killersquirel11! Great minds

think alike! haha. I'm using the
P6KE20A-T transient voltage
suppressor. Nothing goes over
20v from gate to source, and
gate to source is rated for up to
30v, so it's kept safe.
Ziggythewiz (/member/Ziggythewiz/)
"Any time the length of the wire

between the motor controller
(/member/Ziggythewiz/)
exceeds the diameter of the wire"
killersquirel11
Reply (CPA7O71GJ7MLWU4)
afbcom
3 years ago
Reply (CQ1OPA1GJ7MM2RO)
3 years ago
Reply (COAZA7KGJ7MLW2K)
I'm pretty sure every wire I've ever

used was longer than it's diameter.
megapix (/member/megapix/)
afbcom
Just a little correction on the math for the voltage spike. The voltage is V =
where L is the inductance of the wire. For a couple of feet of wire
this could be around 1uH (microHenry = 10e-6). So for a 1mSec switching
time you would have 0.5V, and for a 1uSec switching time you would have
a 500V spike. So it is worth being careful about, but not as severe as your
calculation.
L * di/dt
(/member/megapix/)
megapix
3 years ago
Reply (CWS13PLGJ7MH2IV)
thankyou for the correction. Now that I think about it, 500kvolt is a bit large
eh?
sounding
(/member/afbcom/)
mihnea1970 (/member/mihnea1970/)
2 years ago
Reply (COGN2HPH2MYM5O2)
Hi,
I can not download
(/member/mihnea1970/)
the schematics for the control board. Please help.
nelsonwong90s (/member/nelsonwong90s/) mihnea1970

Reply (C3REY3VHTM2NOQG)
6 months ago
Hi,
(/member/nelsonwong90s/)
The schematics are available

here:
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/PCB_Schematics#Open_ReVolt__Cougar_500_Amp_DC_motor_controller_.28Rev2C.29
(http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/PCB_Schematics#Open_ReVolt__Cougar_500_Amp_DC_motor_controller_.28Rev2C.29)
Page 24 of 29
10/3/14, 9:47 PM
Hope this helps you. :)
kairala (/member/kairala/)
1 year ago
Reply (CBRUL88HJZ868PZ)
hi,
i am from
(/member/kairala/)
india, want to build electric car as well as a bike.

for electric bike - requires a 36v controller circuit diagram with components
specified.
for electric car- i was not able to download circuit diagram of 144v-500amps
controller version.
so i hereby request to help me for the above project.
email id- kairala27@rediffmail.com
kairala (/member/kairala/)
1 year ago
Reply (CEFX9S7HK6XAFK9)
hi, i am from india. want to build electric car as well as a bike.

bike i require 36v controller circuit diagram with components
specification.
for electric car i was not able to download the circuit diagram of 144v-500amp
version.
so i request to help me for the above.
thanking you.
for electric
(/member/kairala/)
anriocarver (/member/anriocarver/)
1 year ago
Reply (CDQWILYHD2RYKN3)
What is the price for one 144Volt 500Amp already built. Ready to use.
is anriocarver@yahoo.com
I leave in Mauritius.
My email address
(/member/anriocarver/)
jimmerforpoy (/member/jimmerforpoy/)
2 years ago
Reply (CJ0QM4TGXL5XMWE)
Does this work for all ev conversions under 144 volts?

(/member/jimmerforpoy/)

2 years ago
Yes.
jimmerforpoy
Reply (CMH7WJXGXSSLG9J)
jongscx (/member/jongscx/)
MPaulHolmes
2 years ago
As a follow-up, Is it possible to
"scale down" the design if I'm
(/member/jongscx/)
never getting near the
144V/500A power
requirements? Do I just use
fewer mosfets and caps?
Nav (/member/Nav/)
2 years ago
Reply (CFP0QRDGZACJH7F)
Reply (COB70YYGXL61V2J)
Okay so I am a novice in all things electric car, but I'm wondering if throwing 4 of
controllers into a car with 4 forklift motors somehow connected to the axle
would result in a 400HP car? I'm sure it doesn't work like that but could someone
please explain the pros/cons of this to me? Thanks and awesome instructable!
these
(/member/Nav/)
Page 25 of 29
10/3/14, 9:47 PM
MPaulHolmes (/member/MPaulHolmes/) (author) Nav

Reply (CSSKZWEGXSSLG9M)
2 years ago
Yes you could.

DieCastoms (/member/DieCastoms/)
2 years ago
Reply (CIE26IGGXQPMLY3)
Ok, so.. I have what used to be a small-sized 3-wheeled 24-volt "Mobility

I am building a large RC vehicle out of it.
Scooter".
(/member/DieCastoms/)
I need a motor controller for 24 volts that will run the thing either from a wired
throttle or eventually a servo output from an RC receiver OR an actual servo
mechanically coupled to a pot that is wired to the controller (This should give
perfectly isolated power from the vehicle's 24 volt system and the RC's 6 volt
system, yes?)
I WANT to have the option to run it via RC or to be able to plug in a wired
controller because the vehicle will be large enough to sit on when complete.
Can someone please suggest a source for such a controller? I DO NOT have
the original controller from the Mobility Scooter, or I would gladly just use it. I
know I could buy another controller for the chair or a similar model, but I
would like to see what else gets suggested, first.
Thank You!
DieCastoms.
abdellah309 (/member/abdellah309/)
2 years ago
Reply (CUE5URAGXBNASK3)
good job Paul, can you post the schemetic of Mosfet stage.
on electic car project in Algeria.
Many thanks,
I'm working
(/member/abdellah309/)
epuneet (/member/epuneet/)
2 years ago
Reply (CZIRSCQGUPCC327)
Is this circuit work for lower power ratings i.e. for 20 Hp motor
(/member/epuneet/)
bertzie (/member/bertzie/)
2 years ago
Reply (CX94JSZGTO4P8HC)
What kind of modifications would need to be done to make it take 170v 2000amp?
(/member/bertzie/)
IT BITz (/member/IT+BITz/)
3 years ago
Reply (CG64XK7GNJD11QB)
3 years ago
Reply (CIMS99SGMX1QE59)
COOL
(/member/IT+BITz/)
Donotmatthews (/member/Donotmatthews/)
I have a 36v forklift motor, I was wondering if this would suffice for a electric car?
(/member/Donotmatthews/)

3 years ago
Probably! If it weighs at least

60 pounds, and has a 1 hour
rating on the name plate of at
least 100 amps it should work
Donotmatthews
Reply (CY6PPNLGMX1QECQ)
Page 26 of 29
10/3/14, 9:47 PM
fine. The voltage rating is

almost meaningless.
steveastrouk (/member/steveastrouk/)
3 years ago
Reply (CP84JQNGKS0W2PQ)
How many quadrants is this thing ?

(/member/steveastrouk/)
Steve

3 years ago
I don't know what that means. All

I know is that it's for a DC motor.
There's a single PWM. Reverse
happens by putting the car in
reverse, and you go forward by
putting the car in 1st, 2nd, ...
steveastrouk
Reply (C120OX5GLAMQ5II)
steveastrouk (/member/steveastrouk/) MPaulHolmes

Reply (CQ8MD32GKS0W366)
3 years ago
Hi,
A quadrant
is the measure of
motoring and generating, in
forward and reverse.
1st quadrant. is motoring
forward, 2nd quadrant is
motoring backwards, 3rd is
generating backwards, and 4th
is generating forwards.
You can implement 1st and 2nd
quadrant with a relay, you can't
do 3 and 4th without a full
bridge.
So essentially, can you do
regenerative braking ?
Steve

3 years ago
It's intended to just run series

wound DC, which I think usually
has problems with regenerative
braking, since the brushes are
usually advanced, so I didn't
make it to do regenerative
braking.
steveastrouk
Reply (C6JD2BBGLAMQ5QJ)

Reply (C3FEYCRGKS0W3Z3)
3 years ago
By "advanced", do you mean

are angled onto the
comm. ?
the brushes
Page 27 of 29
10/3/14, 9:47 PM
Steve

3 years ago
No, there are different sorts of

brush timing. neutral mean
forward and reverse can be done
basically the same, and I think
regen is easier then. When you
physically move the brushes
more one way or the other
around the rotor, it helps to
reduce arcing and lets you run at
a higher voltage, but then you
can't run the motor very well in
both directions, and you can't do
regen.
steveastrouk
Reply (C23VIF1GM9QLM6L)

Reply (C9I4HTSGM9QKIHZ)
3 years ago
Thanks for that briefing. Traction

are not my usual area of
expertise - I usually work with
precision servo motors, with very
low inertias, gold commutators
etc !
motors
bumsugger (/member/bumsugger/)
3 years ago
Reply (CSSV1UZGJ7MULQ1)
What an absolutely stunning project.............I'm blow away by the ingenuity of

not being into all the "save the planet c*ap" thats floating around
at the moment.My one reservation is that,with these electric vehicles all being
so bloody silent,just what wattage of horn do you need,'specially if'n youve a
motorcycle,lighter and faster than a car,and how do you know that you're not
going to "flatten" the battery with all the horn tooting?
it all despite
(/member/bumsugger/)
ivanbakas (/member/ivanbakas/)
There are off the shelf very low

power consumption "noise
(/member/ivanbakas/)
makers" that can make an
electric vehicle sound like
anything you want. Tesla uses it
on their cars.
Lets not let small things like
that derail a movement to the
right direction
1-40
of 58
bumsugger
3 years ago
Reply (CRUUD1AGJC3WNK4)
Next (http://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-100-HP-Motor-Controller-for-an-Electric-C/?
&sort=ACTIVE&limit=40&offset=40#DISCUSS)
Page 28 of 29
We have a be nice comment policy.

Please be positive and constructive.
10/3/14, 9:47 PM
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