Season: Spring/Summer 2014

Description: 2 pocket zip front short

Delivery Name: Spring 1

Delivery Date: Feb 25, 2014

Factory: Amelia Knipmeyer

FABRIC INFO
DESCRIPTION: twill
CONTENT: 98% cotton, 2% spandex
FINISH: none
MILL: Knipmeyer

WASH INFO
WASH: none
REFERENCE:

FIT REFERENCE

mid waist, straight hip fit

COLORWAYS

NOTES

khaki

white short used for patterns, black fabric used for sample

white
black

Modified: September 3, 2013 12:10 AM

Cover Page

1 of 10

Season: Spring/Summer 2014

Description:2 pocket zip front short

Delivery Name: Spring 1

5 pocket opening

Delivery Date: Feb 25, 2014

Factory: Amelia Knipmeyer

2 waistband

2 piece button
closure at center front
waistband

zip entry, fly closure

top stitching at 3/8

faux pocket with uncut buttonhole,
and 9/16 white button

clean finished
waistband, no
topstitching

mita fold belt loop,

w/ edge stitching
and bar tack

Modified: September 3, 2013 12:10 AM

blind hem at 1 1/2

Front & Back

2 of 10

Season: Spring/Summer 2014

Description: 2 pocket zip front short

Delivery Name: Spring 1

mitre fold belt loop, each side

3/8

bar tack

Delivery Date: Feb 25, 2014

Factory: Amelia Knipmeyer

two, white, four hole, 9/16

buttons

polyester zipper
3/4 buttonholes

1/4 bias tape binding

clear, two hole, 9/16 hidden

button placed on the center of
the waistband

no bar tack

Modified: September 3, 2013 12:10 AM

Detail View

3 of 10

Season: Spring/Summer 2014

Description:2 pocket zip front short

Delivery Name: Spring 1

Delivery Date: Feb 25, 2014

Factory: Amelia Knipmeyer

Fabric Details

Colorways

Fabric

PO#

Supplier

Content

Location/Placement

Jet Black

twill

8016430

JoAnnes

98% cotton
2% Spandex

entire garment, except interior lining and bias binding

cotton lining

8016432

JoAnnes

100% cotton

pocket bag lining

Trim Details
Trim #

Description

Supplier

SIZE,QTY

Location/Placement

Color

PLB8672

four hole plastic

button

JoAnnes

9/16,5 PC

center front, back pockets

jet black

PLB8651

two hole plastic

button

JoAnnes

9/16,1 PC

center front inside extension

transparent

BT89672

bias tape

JoAnnes

1/4, 1 yd

inner waistband edge

flamingo pink

ZIP8274

#3 c/e zipper,
nylon coil

JoAnnes

3 1/2, 1 PC

center front opening

jet black

Thread Details
Item

Stitching

Type #

Content

Location/Placement

Color

Supplier

thread

bobbin

TEX 30

polyester

all over bobbin

jet black

JoAnnes

thread

topstitch

TEX 30

polyester

all over topstitch

jet black

JoAnnes

thread

overlock

TEX 27

polyester

all over overlock

jet black

JoAnnes

thread

buttonhole

TEX 27

polyester

all buttonholes

jet black

JoAnnes

Modified: September 3, 2013 12:10 AM

Bill of Materials

4 of 10

Season: Spring/Summer 2014

Description: 2 pocket zip front short

Delivery Name: Spring 1

Delivery Date: Feb 25, 2014

Factory: Amelia Knipmeyer

Graphic / Label Details

Trim #

Description

Supplier

SIZE/ QTY

Location/Placement

MCT7342

main

will advise

11/16 width
2 1/4 length
1 PC

sewn inside, 3/8 from the

top of the waistband
folded in half and attached
underneath the main
label, centered with 1 1/4
exposed
attached underneath the
care label with 5/8 exposed

LCT7351

care

will advise

1 width
3 1/2 length

OFQ6821

store OFQ

will advise

9/16 width
6/8 length

Packaging Details
PFT3829

paper flasher

will advise

1 1/2 width
2 7/8 length

attached 4 inches from right

side seam on the back

MHT7183

main hang tag

will advise

1 7/16 width
4 11/16 length

attached below the waistband at the left side seam

with hang tag 2

HT18921

hang tag #2

will advise

1 1 width
3 1/8 length

attached below the waistband at the left side seam

with main hang tag

PB28193

plastic bag &

tissue paper

will advise

1 PC

as per buyers instructions

SWT9728

swift tag 1

will advise

1 PC clear

used to attach the paper

flasher

SWT9729

swift tag 2

will advise

1 PC black

used to attach the main

hang tag and hang tag 2

Modified: September 3, 2013 12:10 AM

Bill of Materials

5 of 10

Season: Spring/Summer 2014

Description: 2 pocket zip front short

Delivery Name: Spring 1

Delivery Date: Feb 25, 2014

Factory:Amelia Knipmeyer

AREA

DESCRIPTION

ISO SEAM
TYPE

WIDTH

SPI

back rise

single needle, surged edge

301,504

1/4

10,12

front rise

single needle, surged edge

301,504

1/4

10,12

side seams

single needle, surged edge

301,504

1/4

10,12

inseam

single needle, surged edge

301,504

1/4

10,12

waistband

single needle

301

10

front pockets

single needle

301

10

back pocket flaps

single needle

301

10

hem

blind hem

103

pocket bags

french seam

301

belt loops

mitre fold, 1/16 edge stitch, bartack

301,304

dart

single needle

301

fly inside

3-thread overedge

504

fly outside

single needle

301

front zipper

single needle

301

buttonholes

lockstitch

304

Modified: September 3, 2013 12:10 AM

Stitch & Seam Detail

1 1/2

10
10

1/4

10,12
10

1/4

12
10

3/4

6 of 10

Season: Spring/Summer 2014

Description:2 pocket zip front short

Delivery Name: Spring 1

Delivery Date: Feb 25, 2014

Factory:Amelia Knipmeyer

SAMPLE

CODE

SHORT SPEC. MEASUREMENTS

TOL. +/-

SIZE 4

SIZE 6

SIZE 8

SIZE 10

81

waistband depth

1/8

83

waistband circumference

1/2

34 1/2

35 1/2

36 1/2

37 1/2

87

high hip width

1/2

16

17

18

19

89

low hip width

1/2

17 1/2

18 1/2

19 1/2

20 1/2

105

inseam

3/8

11

11

11

11

106

outseam

3/8

17 1/8

17 1/4

17 1/2

17 3/4

107

front rise

3/8

6 1/8

6 3/8

6 6/8

7 1/8

108

back rise

3/8

11 1/4

11 1/2

11 7/8

12 1/4

110

thigh width circumference

3/8

22 5/8

23 1/8

23 7/8

24 5/8

114

leg opening width circumference

1/4

18 3/4

19

19 1/4

19 1/2

121

fly/zipper A. length

1/4

4 1/4

4 1/4

4 1/4

4 1/4

B. width

1/8

1 3/8

1 3/8

1 3/8

1 3/8

127

pocket opening

1/4

130

finished belt loop length

1/8

2 1/2

2 1/2

2 1/2

2 1/2

131

finished belt loop width

1/8

3/8

3/8

3/8

3/8

FRONT

Modified: September 3, 2013 12:10 AM

BACK

Graded Specification

7 of 10

Season: Spring/Summer 2014

Description: 2 pocket zip front short

Delivery Name: Spring 1

Delivery Date: Feb 25, 2014

Factory: Amelia Knipmeyer

FABRIC

TYPE

PRICE

USAGE

UNIT

TOTAL
PRICE

twill

jet black

$9.99/yd

yards

$9.99

cotton lining

jet black

$2.49/unit

quarter

$2.49

total fabric

$12.48

TRIM

TYPE

PRICE

USAGE

UNIT

TOTAL
PRICE

four hole plastic button

jet black

$2.50/6 PC

each

$1.67

two hole plastic button

transparent

$1.10/4 PC

each

$0.28

bias tape

pink

$1.99/4 yd

yards

$0.49

zipper

jet black

$1.99

each

$1.99

interfacing

fusible

$3.17/yd

1/4

yards

$0.79

thread

jet black

$2.79

1/2

each

$1.24

total trims

$6.46

LABOR

SAM

RATE

TOTAL
PRICE

cut & make

25

0.12

$3.00

trimming

20

0.09

$1.80

labeling

0.09

$0.18

packaging

0.09

$0.18

total labor

$5.16

total material

$18.94

total labor

$5.16

finishing cost

$0.50

garment FOB

$24.60

15%

$3.69

9%

$2.21

comissions

6%

$1.48

quota fee

2%

$0.49

landed cost

$32.47

wholesale

$64.94

retail

$142.87

duty

Modified: September 3, 2013 12:10 AM

Costing Sheet

8 of 10

Season: Spring/Summer 2014

Description:2 pocket zip front short

Delivery Name: Spring 1

Delivery Date: Feb 25, 2014

Factory: Amelia Knipmeyer

CONSTRUCTION SEQUENCE

PIECE LIST

1. sew pocket facings to pocket bags

1. front-2 self

2. sew back and front pocket bags together

2. back-2 self

3. attach pocket bag to front

3. inner pocket bag-2 self

4. stay stitch front along waistband and side seam

4. outter pocket bag-2 self

5. sew darts on back

5. belt loop-3 self

6. assemble back pocket flap

6. fly shield-1 self, 1 fuse

7. sew buttonhole on back pocket flap

7. fly facing-1 self

8. attach back pocket flaps to back, press under 1/2 in and stay stitch at
3/8 in

8. inner pocket lining-2 self, 2 fuse

9. sew the side seams and the inseam

9. outter pocket lining-2 self, 2 fuse

10. serge the side seams and inseam

10. back pocket flap-4 self, 2 fuse

11. serge the crotch, each leg seperately cutting off 1/4 in

11. right waistband-2 self, 1 fuse

12. sew the crotch, from the back 1 in past the inseam at 1/4 in

12. inner left waistband-1 self

13. serge the curve of the fly facing

13. outter left waistband-1 self, 1 fuse

14. attach the fly facing

14. back waistband-2 self, 1 fuse

15. attach the zipper to the fly facing, 3/4 in from edge
16. attach the fly shield and zipper
17. top stitch over the fly shield
18. tack the fly shield to the fly facing
19. assemble waistband with belt loops in between inner and outter waistband
20. attach the waistband
21. sew bias tape to the inside edge of the waistband
22. stitch in the ditch along the outside of the waistband
23. bar tack mitored belt loops to the short
24. sew button holes on the waistband
25. cut button holes on the waistband only
26. attach buttons
27. serge the hem
28. hand sew the hem at 1 1/2 in

Modified: September 3, 2013 12:10 AM

Construction Sequence / Piece List

9 of 10

Season: Spring/Summer 2014

Description: 2 pocket zip front short

Delivery Name: Spring 1

Delivery Date: Feb 25, 2014

Factory: Amelia Knipmeyer

DATE:
UPDATE:
INITIAL OF AUTHOR:

Modified: September 3, 2013 12:10 AM

Style History

10 of 10