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explosive pace that has marked its development began in 1910, when
the construction of a new harbour began at Tanjung Perak. With the
larger steam ships dominating the trade routes, older ports without
deepwater facilities slipped into irrelevance, and the rapid expansion of
trade and commerce in Surabaya resulted in a boom that quadrupled
the population within 30 years.
History is a living force here and the old trading quarters of the Dutch
are fully functional even if occupied by new tenants. Buginese and
Makassarese sailing boats share the harbour with freighters whose size
defies the imagination. Mosques and temples that have been used for
500 years continue to receive pilgrims. In other cities, the old and the
new stand in stark contrast; in Surabaya, they represent a continuum.
The people of Surabaya have been working hard and playing hard for
centuries, and visitors are welcome to join them.
How to get there
By Plane
The average visitor to Surabaya is likely to arrive at the airport.
Situated 30 minutes from the city's centre, Juanda Airport has
international airport status, and visitors from most countries are
eligible for a two-month, visa-free entrance at this point. Surabaya
now handles direct flights to and from Singapore, Australia, Taiwan
and Hong Kong. It is aslo a major hub for domestic air traffic with
flights leaving daily for Jakarta, Bali, Semarang, Yogya and many other
points.
By Train
A high-speed rail service connects Surabaya to Semarang, Yogya, Solo
and Jakarta, and is an excellent way to travel . Unlike the airports, the
train stations in all these places are conveniently located in or near the
centre of town. The premium-grade Argo service allows the traveller to
appreciate the beauty of the Javanese countryside in air-conditioned
comfort. Besides using the most modern and up-to date engines
available, these trains have priority at junctions and are very rarely
delayed. They leave from Pasar Turi Station in Central Surabaya and
arrive at Gambir in Jakarta nine hours later.
By Car
veneration for their deceased relatives can be seen in the 'ash houses'
places built for ancestral worship, which often occupy a whole building
on a piece of real estate worth hundreds of thousands of dollars. These
buildings can be recognised by the Chinese characters and burning
incense placed outside them.
Another Chinese shrine, Hok An Kiong, was built in the 18th century
and is located on Jalan Selompretan. This shrine is dedicated to the
safety and well-being of sailors, and offerings are made here to
propitiate the sea.
The Arab Quarter: Silks, Spices and Incense
The Arab Quarter lies to the south of Kali Mas harbour on Jalan Kyai
Mas Mansyur. Despite the name, the district is home to an amazing
mixture of races and ethnic groups, including Yemenis, Pakistanis,
Gujaratis and Mallets. Shops selling silks, sari, batik and other cloth
crowd around a warren-like market which is pervaded by the aroma of
spices and incense.
The Red Bridge of Surabaya
The colour of the bridge that marks the entrance to the 19th century
colonial business district off Jalan Veteran could most aptly be
described as "blood red". Red is a sign of the courage and
determination for which the people of East Java are famous, and one
of the most famous battles in the larger Battle of Surabaya accurred
here. The white-washed walls and red-tiled roofs of the colonial
buildings here date to the boom period of the 1920s.
Joko Dolog: Surabaya's Mascot
One of the strangest sights of Surabaya is aptly named 'Fat Boy'
statue, more formally known as Joko Dolog. This ancient statue sits
grinning from a park in the middle of the city's administrative district,
close to Grahadi, the Governor of East Java's official residence. The
stories say that this statue was built at the orders of King Kertanegara
in the 13th century to dispel a curse that prevented the city from
prospering. The city of Surabaya continues to prosper. It is a place
where the past flows into the future in an unbroken tradition , and
where signs of that tradition are visible everywhere.
Surabaya Shopping
HANDICRAFTS
Indonesia's 27 provinces and 300 odd ethnic groups have produced a
plethora of unique handicrafts, ranging from primitive wood carvings
and totems to intricately designed cloths, painstakingly delicate silver
filigrees, puppets, masks, and pots. The bounty of this rich cultural
heritage is easily available in Surabaya, both in modern shopping malls
where prices are fixed and in private galleries and gift shops where
bargaining is half the fun.
Opposite the Hyatt Regency on Jl. Jend. Basuki Rakhmat, look for Toko
Bali Which specializes, as its name suggests, in arts and crafts from
the nearby island of Bali. Further down the road at Wing On Art Shop
you'll find a pot-pourri of curios and easy-to carry souvenir items.
Mirota on Jl. Sulawesi 24 and Karwati Art Shop at Jl. Embong Wungu
30 are also good: or try the top floors of Sarinah Department Store on
Jl. Tunjungan for guaranteed quality offering a wide selection of batik
and ikat cloths, wood carving and jewelry
REMO DANCE
Usually performed as a welcome ceremony, represents the dynamic character of the
Surabaya community, it pictures the spontaneity of courageous knight. The
accompanying gamelan musical intruments include gending, bonang, saron,
gambang, gender, slenthem, zitter, flute, ketuk kenong, kempul and gong.The tunes
are Jula-Juli Surabaya, Tropongan, sometimes continued by Walang Kekek, Gedog
Rancak, Krucilan or new creations. The Remo dance has two styles, boyish or girlish.
Accordingly the dancers are boys or girls, it may be performed singly or in a group to
welcome as a honor of guest and visitors. It may also and serve as an opening dance
of the Ludruk performance.The dancers wear three kinds costumes, the
Sawunggaling or Surabaya style. The upper part is black, representing an 18th
century noble dress. The trousers are black velvet with the golden ornament and
batik.The Remo dance was particularly promoted around 1900,it was utilized by the
Indonesian nationalist to communicate with the community.
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Lombok
Jer Basuki Mawa Bea" are the words emblazoning the emblem of East Java. Translated. they
mean that achievments are only won through sacrifice. This is certainly an appropriate motto,
especially for the people of Surabaya. the 'City of Heroes'. whose history of struggle against
foreign invaders is well known.
Surabaya is the commercial and administrative capital of East Java, a thriving business and
industrial centre and the province's main port. Second only to Jakarta in size and importance, the
city has a population of around 2.5 million residents. From the port area of Tanjung Perak ferries
leave regularly for Madura, and air services to and from Surabaya's Juanda Airport connect the
city with Jakarta, Yogyakarta, Bali and other parts of Indonesia.
Surabaya is a progressive capital undergoing rapid change. Former negative reports about the
city from foreign visitors are thus clearly unwarranted today. In fact, Surabaya now enjoys the
reputation as being the cleanest city in Indonesia, equipped with every modern facility and
offering a standard of accommodation to suit every taste and budget. Places of interest for the
tourist require Kalimas harbour and Kampung Arab in the old part of town, the Mpu Tantular
Museum, as well as one of the largest zoos in south east Asia
The name of Surabaya is come from the word Sura, means shark and Baya, means
crocodile. With over 3 million people, unpretentious Surabaya may be the second-largest
city in Indonesia, but it's a little lacking in sights. However, many people come here on
business, and Surabaya is also a gateway city for Mount Bromo and the island of Bali.
The city's attractions tend to be more apparent to those who make it their home rather
than to short-term visitors.
With the tropical climate, you need to wear casual clothes. T-shirts, shorts, sandals or
shoes. Remember, don't wear eye catching accessories in public places. During the rainy
season (November-April), be prepared for occasional flash floods and traffic jams, even
though it's not as bad as Jakarta.
Tourism Information office: Jl. Wisata Menanggal, Tel.: (62)(31) 853 1815, (62)(31) 853
1820
Talk
The national language Bahasa Indonesia (Indonesian) is the medium of government,
commerce and education. Many locals also speak the regional language, Javanese
(Sometimes with Suroboyoan dialect.) There is a surprising amount of English visible in
Surabaya on advertising and signs, and English is the most widely understood foreign
language.
To call elderly people, use 'Pak'(short for 'Bapak') for men and 'Bu' (short for 'Ibu') for
women. To call young adult people, use 'Mas' for men and 'Mbak' for women. To call
children, use 'Dik' (short for 'Adik') for both gender. 'Permisi' is excuse me, 'Terima
Kasih'/'Makasih' is thank you, and 'Maaf' is sorry.
Get in
By plane
Surabaya's Juanda Airport (SUB) is one of the busiest in the country, with very frequent
flights to Jakarta and other major Indonesian destinations, as well as some direct
international flights to destinations including Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong,
Taipei, and Bandar Seri Begawan. A new, fairly spiffy terminal opened in 2006, with all
the facilities you'd expect (ATMs, car rental, etc), and international and domestic flights
now depart from the same building.
Officially, you're supposed to buy fixed-fare taxi coupons from the "Prima Taxi" stand for
the 18 km trip into town, around US$5-10 depending on your exact destination. In
practice you may be able to get a driver dropping off passengers to pick you up. If you're
going further away (eg. Mount Bromo), it'll be cheaper to a rent a car with a driver
instead. There is a sketchy and infrequent Airport Bus service to the Bungurasih bus
station on the southern outskirts of the city.
By train
Surabaya has two main stations, Surabaya Pasar Turi and Surabaya Gubeng. Seats in
eksekutif (first class) and bisnis (second class) for any intercity journey can be reserved
up to 30 days in advance at any major railway station in Java.
Trains using the northern main line from Gambir Station in Jakarta take at least nine
hours to arrive at Pasar Turi, while trains using the southern main line take no less than
15. Air-conditioned trains are available on both routes, though. The Argo Bromo
Anggrek, Sembrani and Gumarang trains use the northern line, while the Bima uses
the south line. All these trains have air-conditioned eksekutif accommodations.
Trains from Bandung and Yogyakarta use the Gubeng station. The Argo Wilis travels at
daytime, allowing passengers to enjoy the scenery in the western part of the route. The
Sancaka travels to Yogyakarta via Solo twice a day and takes approximately 6 hours.
Railway connections to Bali are made by the twice-a-day Mutiara Timur express to
Banyuwangi, transferring to buses before the ferry crossing to Gilimanuk. Don't forget to
buy salak bali.
Slow and packed local trains to Malang depart from Kota station (also known as Semut)
and pass through Gubeng station on their way south.
By sea
By road
Surabaya has frequent bus connections to all parts of East Java, and to major cities in
other parts of Java and beyond. The main bus terminal is at Bungurasih, about 10 km
south of the city. There are frequent departures to Malang and to Probolinggo (for Mount
Bromo), so just turn up. Long-haul bus journeys are best booked in advance.
Another option is to go by minibus (known in Indonesia as travel). A number of
companies run door-to-door minibus services to major destinations in Java, including
Malang and Yogyakarta. These services are both more convenient and more expensive
than public buses. Seats can be booked in advance through company offices, and also
through many hotels and travel agents.
Get around
Taxis, buses, and other have yellow vehicle number plates.
By taxi
Taxis are plentiful on the streets of Surabaya. Some taxis are not renowned for their
reliability and honesty, so get the well known taxis eg. Blue Bird Group, Silver and
Express and insist on the meter. Figure on Rp 20,000 for a cross-town trip and Rp 70,000
to the airport. Flag-fall is Rp 4,000, but drivers will expect a minimum fare of Rp 10,000
for short trips. For longer trips, pay the fare shown on the meter rounded up to the nearest
multiple of Rp 1,000. Drivers will appreciate a tip of a few thousand rupiah, but this is
optional. Be careful though, a lot of taxi drivers will take the long route to a destination
regardless of the firm.
By train
Commuter city trains is extremely limited, serving some parts of Surabaya and Sidoarjo.
By bus
It is not recommended to travel in Surabaya by bus, since it's always so crowded and
there are many pickpocket and beggars, and sometimes the street musician (Ind:
'Pengamen') seems asks the money by some "pressives" (notice that I delete the "im-")
way. even there are two class of Surabaya's bus: a) standard bus (always very full); and b)
Patas Bus (it was supposed to be first class bus, but it stil... bus..)
Other transportation
'Becak' is a traditional transportation in Surabaya, but you probably won't use it, since
'becak' aren't allowed in major streets. 'Bemo' or 'Angkot'(Angkutan Kota) or 'Mikrolet' is
a public transportation that uses cars that are modified and painted. But it's hard to get
around with this transportation, because their route is a bit confusing. And there are
pickpockets too, sometimes you can found "street hypnotist"(Ind : Gendam), man (or
maybe men and sometimes women), that use hypnotic method to rob your pocket. they
can make you unconscious (and un-aware to yourself) so they can command you
anything (from give your money until give your ATM pin number) Some victim report
that they still feel confuse (un-aware), until 2-3 hours after 'gendam'-ed. but other people
says that high self-confidence and self-conciousness can prevent this gendam. Gendam
usually found in angkot which pass trough traditional market (Kupang, Keputran,
Wonokromo, Gembong, etc.) 'Angguna' (short from : Angkutan Serba Guna; multi
purpose transport), it's like a cab, but without Air Conditioner. it makes them cheaper
than taxi (the most interest thing is, you must BARGAIN the price). you can found it in
the whole part of town. the maximum passenger is 4 persons, with a space in the rear of
the car, that used to put some goods and things, it have 3 doors (there is only one door at
rear seat).
See
Grahadi. The colonial-era residence of the Governor of East Java. You can
watch Reog dance, a vigorous traditional dance at 'Balai Pemuda' (Youth Hallone historical building in Surabaya) every Sunday at 11 am.
G-Walk located in west Surabaya (Citra-raya) they have a lot of food stall
and bazaar at night you can find most of famous food in this town. it's very
crowded at night and it's a place for a lot of young people to hang out.
Pasar Ampel A large Arab market selling carpets and all other goodies. At
the end of the main narrow lane is the mosque and grave of one of the nine
Muslim saints of Java, Sunan Ampel.
Masjid Al Akbar Surabaya A very huge mosque (some said it's the biggest
mosque at SE-asia) the mosque has a tower which equipped by an elevator, so
the visitors can see surabaya from top of the tower, 65 metres (195 ft) height.
Do
Swim and have fun with water in Ciputra Waterpark [3], a great place for
swimming, it has wave pool, slides, and more. This waterpark is located in the
CitraRaya complex. Usually crowded on Saturdays, Sundays and other
holidays. The waterpark opens until 8 pm.
Enjoy the local arts at Balai Pemuda, an art center in the heart of Surabaya,
near the City Hall. You can watch the Reog Dance and other art performance.
The big event is Festival Seni Surabaya (FSS), held every year on June. At
Dutch Colonial era, this building was a club called Simpangsche Societeit.
Get around the Old Town area (Around Kembang Jepun to the port) and
enjoy the view of nice colonial buildings. By night, you can eat in the Kya-Kya
Kembang Jepun.
Surabaya has several golf courses. Try to golf in Bukit Darmo Golf. This golf
course is located in the elite housing area in West Surabaya. This course has 18
holes, designed by Jack Nicklaus II. Another alternative is Yani Golf. This
course is built in hilly terrain. Otherwise, you can try Graha Famili golf course
(18 holes), inside Graha Famili real estate site, near the Bukit Darmo Golf.
Watch movie in 21 Group cinemas, a nice cinema. 21 Cinemas have airconditioners, and nice seat (But check your seat condition, sometimes the seat
isn't clean.)You can know a cinema is a group of 21 from the last name, like
Empire 21 or Tunjungan 21. Beware of other cinemas , which usually dirty,
unsafe, and without air-conditioner.
Buy
Shopping malls
Surabaya boasts some of South-East Asia's largest shopping malls. Try to shopping at 1st
May to 30th June, when the Surabaya Big Sale is going on. There will be discount up to
50% in many Surabaya's stores.
BG Junction the largest and the newest on centre of surabaya they have
carefour and a lot of variety of jewellery store so if you want to buy jewellery
you definitely have to go to this place.
Plaza Surabaya (Delta Plaza), Jl Pemuda. One of the oldest shopping malls
in town. Beside Delta Plaza is the Monkasel(Monumen Kapal Selam) or the
Submarine Monument.
Galaxy Mall. The largest one in East Surabaya, with two interconnected
buildings (Galaxy Mall 1 and 2). Many luxury things found here.
Supermall Pakuwon Indah (SPI) and Pakuwon Trade Center (PTC). The
largest one in West Surabaya. SPI contains the exclusive part of the mall and
PTC for the less exclusive part. PTC has an area that sells pets.
of restaurants on the top floors and the basement. There are some department
stores in TP such as SOGO (at TP 4), Matahari (at TP3), Rimo (at TP2). Enjoy
yourself at Stingers, an game area near the food court or Timezone, a popular
arcade.
World Trade Center (WTC), off Jl Pemuda. Despite its name, the building
is actually more famous as the place to shop for cellphones. Beware of
pickpockets. For locals, WTC is often referred as 'World Telephone Center'.
THR Mall, Jl Kusuma Bangsa. The ultimate place to shop for computers,
software, and computer peripherals .
Plaza Marina, a shopping area for computers and softwares.
Markets
Pasar Genteng Around this market you'll find shops selling bandeng
asap(smoked bandeng fish) and kerupuk(local crisps).
Pasar Ampel A large colourful Arab Market.
Eat
Surabaya is famous for the rujak cingur, local salad with sauce and cingur(Slice of
cooked cow nose). Try also the sate kelopo, satay with coconut rasp, which you can find
in Walikota Mustajab street. Surabaya is also home for many restaurants, from
Indonesian restaurant to Western restaurant.
Surabaya Suki, Jalan Raya Gubeng 34. Popular steam boat hang out. Also
serves a variety of Chinese,Thai and Asian cuisines. Try "Thai Singkong"
dessert. Also serve Hong Kong style Dim Sum in the afternoon.
Depot You Yuen, Jl Undaan Kulon 87. Inexpensive, local vegetarian cuisine.
Indonesian speakers only.
Food courts in all the main shopping malls offer a variety of Indonesian,
Western Chinese and Japanese dishes at reasonable prices. The shopping malls
also have good variety of small restaurants.
Indonesian foods
Soto Ayam Ambengan, Jl. Ambengan. Serves soto, a yellow soup with
chicken meat, noodle, and cabbage. The soup is yellow because of the turmeric
and other spices.
Puri Garden, Plaza Surabaya 1F. Tasty selection of Indonesian food with
dishes for Rp 10,000-20,000. Try puri kuali asam, an Indonesian twist on the
spicy Thai tom yam kung soup.
to eat. Serving indonesian food. Try gurame bakar,BBQ fish with nice soy
sauce. gurame goreng,fresh fried fish looks like fly when its serve.
Ikan Bakar Cianjur, Mayjend Sungkono. Try the ikan pesmol, fried fish
with delicious local sauce.
Ayam Goreng Pemuda, Jl. Pemuda 38. Tasty fried chicken.
Fast foods
Ibu Hasan, Jl. Manyar Rejo 8, Surabaya. Tel.: (62)(31) 594 8710. Jl. Kutai
25 A, Surabaya. Tel.: (62)(31) 709 9975. Website: Ibu Hasan. Local bakery
chain.
Baskin and Robbins, JL. Komp Ruko Mangga Dua Blok A.9 No. 10. Tel.:
(62)(31) 843 2545. Galaxi, Jl. Dharmahusada Indah Timur No.37 Lt.2. Tel.: (62)
(31) 593 7159. Plaza Tunjungan 4 - Jl. Embong Malang 7-21, Tel.: (62)(31) 535
5081. Pakuwon Supermall, Perumahan Pakuwon Indah, Tel.: (62)(31) 739 0331.
Golden City Mall, Jl. H. Abdul Wahab Siamin 2- 8. Tel.: (62)(31) 565 3386.
Website: Baskin and Robbins. Ice cream parlour.
Drink
Sleep
Budget
Puri Kencana, Jl Kalimantan. Worn rooms with air-con and cold water for
$10-15 including decent Indonesian breakfast.
Bamboe Den. The only backpacker place in Surabaya. Worn rooms and
shared bathrooms (mandi), but very, very cheap compared to the alternatives.
Aug 2006 Rp60.000 (about $8) per night.
Mid-range
Narita **
Santika **
Splurge
Mandarin Oriental Majapahit [6] *****, 65 Jalan Tunjungan, tel. +62-315459002. Opulent colonial-era luxury. From $100; local travel agents can get
better deals. The best service and nicest staff compared to any other hotels in
Surabaya. Absolutely good reputation, very accommodating to your daily needs
- from birthdays to honeymoons, just tell them, they will plan everything for
you. Definitely comparable to any high class hotels in Singapore or Kuala
Lumpur, Malaysia
Cope
Emergencies
Ambulance: 118.
Police: 110.
Police stations:
East Java Police HQ: Jl. Ahmad Yani, Tel.: (62)(31) 8280748.
Surabaya Police HQ: Jl. Sikatan 1. Tel.: (62)(31) 3523927.
East Surabaya, Jl. Sidodadi. Tel.: (62)(31)5341053, (62)(31) 3711052.
North Surabaya, Jl. Raden Saleh. Tel.: (62)(31)5688099, (62)(31) 5341053.
South Surabaya, Jl. Dukuh Kupang Barat 16. Tel.: (62)(31) 3711052, (62)
(31) 5670641.
Tanjung Perak, Jl. Kalianget 1. Tel.: (62)(31) 3293023, (62)(31) 3293023.
Stay safe
As with any big city, never let your guard down, because big cities such as Surabaya have
a reputation among Indonesians for a high crime rate. That said, Surabaya has few real
dangers for visitors apart from the perils of crossing the very busy roads (the secret is to
raise an arm while crossing, and to progress with a predictable speed and bearing,
allowing the traffic to flow around you). Don't walk on the streets, especially at night, if
you can avoid it since you won't have anything to sightsee and the air pollution is fairly
high. Be polite to the people, since Surabayans tend to swear easily. Do not easily trust
people you have just met, even if they look friendly.
Stay healthy
Hospitals with 24 hours emergency rooms (ER):
RSUD Dr. Soetomo, Jl. Prof. Moestopo 6-8. Tel.: (62)(31) 5340061.
RSUD Haji, Jl. Manyar Kertoadi. Tel.: (62)(31) 5947760.
RS Darmo, Jl. Raya Darmo. Tel.: (62)(31) 5676253.
RS Griya Husada, Jl. Bubutan 93. Tel.: (62)(31) 5340828.
RS Mitra Keluarga, Jl. Satelit Indah II Darmo Satelit. Tel.: (62)(31) 7345333.
RS William Booth, Jl. Diponegoro 34. Tel.: (62)(31) 5678917.
Contact
Get out