1 .

A L O O C H A AT

What: For this very basic, very delicious chaat, boiled potatoes (aloo) are cubed, fried, and spiced up,
then served hot with toothpicks. These hunks of frying potato on large, flat tawas manned by chaat
walas are a common sight on Delhis streets.
Where: Our unadorned, spicy-salty aloo chaat is from Hira Lal Chaat (3636, Chawri Bazaar, map), a
friendly stand in Old Delhi. Approaching from the Chawri Bazaar metro, its about halfway down the
block, on the left. Theres no English signage, but look for the hot, fresh potatoes.
When: Daily, noon-9pm
Order: Aloo chaat (20 rupees), which is topped simply with chaat masala and lime juice here, among
other spices, and dont leave without sampling the tastykulle, or fruit chaat.

2 . B E D M I - A L O O , NAG O R I - H A LWA

What: One of Indias best oddball savory-sweet pairings, and a popular Delhi breakfast (especially in
winter), bedmi-aloo and nagori-halwa are two distinct dishes eaten together. The former is the savory
part: a puffy, hefty, deep-fried puri-like bread made of wheat flour, spices, and dal, called bedmi, which is
served with a spicy aloo sabzi, or potato curry. The latter is nagori, a small, crispy, crumbly puri made
with suji (semolina) and ghee, paired with suji halwa, kind of like a sweet, dry porridge likewise cooked in
ghee. So what do you do with this stuff? Take a savory bite; take a sweet bite. Some people like to stuff
some halwa into a piece of nagori and then dunk that into the aloo before eating. Such mix-and-match
flavor combos may challenge your notion of what constitutes a balanced breakfast, but if youre like us,
youll welcome it with open arms.
Where: At Shyam Sweets (2326-8087; 112, Chawri Bazaar, map) in Old Delhi, we quickly filled one of
the few free-standing tables with bowls of foods. The owners son, Bharat, who introduced himself as the
fifth generation at Shyam, kept insisting we try more and more things. He didnt have to twist our arms.
When: Daily, 8am-10pm, but arrive for breakfast lest they run out of anything. Though halwa is more
common in winter, Shyam serves it in summer too.
Order: Bedmi-aloo (25 rupees for two pieces) and nagori-halwa (30 rupees for two pieces). The spicy
potato curry was draped with green chilies and made with a fenugreek chutney containing, according to
Bharat, 17 different spices. The aromatic semolina halwa (pictured at bottom of pic) had a nice light
sweetness and the texture of couscous; both puris, different as they are, were delicious. With these we had
pickled vegetables and a spectacular pumpkin curry called sitaphal ki sabzi, sweet and sour and spicy at
once. Shyam also offers tasty kachoriswe tried the muttar (pea) varietywhich pair well with the potato
curry. Before rolling ourselves home toward the metro, we washed it all down with a thick malaitoppedlassi.

3 . G O L G A P PA

What: This very popular chaat, or snack, encompasses some of chaats best qualitiesspicy, crunchy,
saucy, satisfyingall in one explosive bite-size package. Also widely known as pani puri, it consists of a
delicate, hollow, crispy-fried puffed ball (puri, or poori) thats filled with potato, chickpea, onion, spices,
and flavored water, usually tamarind and/or mint, and popped into ones mouth whole, often while
standing. The water part is whats tricky for foreigners, as most of those tempting street gol gappa vendors
use tap water (and often theirbare fingers to stuff the puris). Luckily, a few well-known spots take care to
use mineral waternot quite as authentic, maybe, but you wont end up in bed for three days.
Where: Not far from Connaught Place, diner-like Nathus Sweets (multiple branches including 23, 24,
25, Bengali Market, map) offers gol gappas made with bottled Bisleri water.
When: Daily, 8:30am-11pm
Order: The gol gappas here come six to a plate (40 rupees), their components neatly separated out for
self-assembly: six puris, a bowl of potato-chickpea stuffing, and two bowls of flavored water. Poke a hole
on the soft side of the puri, spoon in some filling, and then spoon inor just dip the whole thing intothe
flavored water. Eat it all in one go. Despite the decidedly safe nature of these, they are really fun to put
together; we saw several local kids enjoying the process too.

4 . K A D H A I PA N E E R

What: Another of the many vegetarian Punjabi dishes popular in Delhi, kadhai paneer (sometimes
called karahi) is paneer, or Indian cheese, cooked with bell peppers (a.k.a. capsicum), onion, tomato,
garlic, ginger, lots of spicesusually including dry fenugreek leavesghee, and some cream. Its name
refers to the wok-like pan in which its cooked: a kadhai, known as karahi in Pakistan (that the Punjab
region straddles both countries explains the two names showing up in Delhi). It might be red or brown in
color, dry or wet in texture, but its always a solid, satisfying dish.
Where: Kadhai paneer was among the veg curries at Pindi (2338-7932; 16, Pandara Rd. Market, map),
one of several good Punjabi restaurants on famed Pandara Road, in central Delhi. Its a bit upscale, so
prices arent the cheapest, but quality is very good.
When: Daily, noon-12:30am
Order: This dish, listed as karahi paneer (325 rupees), was delicious here, loaded with paneer and
veggies, its flavorful brown curry topped with fresh coriander and a bit of cream. Get some naan to mop it
up, and if youre feeling decadent, try thebutter chicken here. The tandoori chicken is also quite good.

4. K H E E R

What: An ancient, delicately sweet dessert made of slow-cooked rice, milk, and sugar, kheer is South
Asias take on rice pudding, though it has quite a few regional variations and names. Here, saffron,
cardamom, and nuts like pistachio and almond often get involved. Like phirni, its served chilled in
earthenware bowls and especially common in Muslim restaurants, particularly during Ramadan.
Where: Kheer is perfectly cast as a light dessert following a big meaty meal. Ours played exactly that role
at the legendary Karim Hotel (Gali Kababian, Jama Masjid, map).
When: Daily, 9am-12:30am
Order: The kheer (60 rupees), topped with a light sprinkling of pistachio nuts, comes out of a big cooler
downstairs at Karims, so its easy to pop by just for dessert if need be. Otherwise, order some goods in the
restaurant first: mutton burra, mutton seekh kebab, shami kebab, tandoori chicken perhaps.

5. KO F TA

What: Kofta means meatballs, although in one of the most popular Mughlai dishes, malai kofta, the
balls in question are veg, made with paneer. Otherwise, the kofta will likely be minced and spiced mutton
(also called keema), unless itsnargisi kofta, which means a hard-boiled egg coated in ground meat (and
which may have inspired the U.K.s Scotch egg). In any case, the fried kofta balls are typically smothered
in a lovely creamy curry sauce, patiently waiting for your naanto scoop it up.
Where: Our kofta curry in question came from Kake da Hotel (9136-666820; 67, Municipal Market,
Connaught Circus, map), on the outer circle of central Delhis Connaught Place. Its not actually a hotel
but a good, reliable source of hot, fresh Punjabi curries. Go upstairs for seating and service.
When: Daily, noon-midnight
Order: The kofta curry (140 rupees), which are balls of minced mutton in a rich, spicy red gravy. Really
nice, especially when the staff comes by with a second helping of the sauce, dumping extra gravy into the
bowl. Also consider the saag chicken, dal makhaniand definitely get lots of naan.

6. L A S S I

What: The smoothie-like counter to all those heavy curries, lassi is a creamy, frothy yogurt-based drink
from Punjab. There are many varieties, but most will fall under either sweet or saltedthe former is curd
blended or whisked with sugar (and/or fruit), the latter with salt and often other spices, like cumin and/or
cardamom seeds. Traditionally, lassi is served in a disposable clay cup called akulhar, and extra malai, or
clotted cream, is spooned on top before serving. In Delhi lassis are especially popular in the summer,
when they provide a cool, soothing balance to most everything else being consumed.
Good to know: While this drinks probiotic qualities are wonderful for all stomachs, its a good idea for
foreigners to order it without ice, to be safe. Also, its best drunk in warmer months, as the curd is likely to
be fresher. As for concerns as to whether water is added to lassis: It seems to depend on the place, and it
doesnt hurt to ask. Like with anything else here, start out slowtry a lassi or two at your hotel, for
example, or a hygienic chain like Haldirams (see below)before branching out to, say, an Old Delhi lassiwalla. We tried a wide range of lassis without problems, but experiences can certainly vary.
Where: We drank a lassi nearly every day during summer in Delhi, but especially loved the traditional
one at Shyam Sweets (2326-8087; 112, Chawri Bazaar,map) in Old Delhi.
Order: One kulhar of lassi (30 rupees), which comes topped with malai and is nearly a meal in itself!
The bedmi-aloo and nagori-halwa are also quite good here, and distinctly Delhi.

8.

MASAL A CHAI

What: Masala chai is the milky spiced black tea thats found all over India, thanks to the tea-crazy
British, who set up plantations for export back in the 1830s and later worked to popularize tea drinking in
India via the Indian Tea Association. Like much of north India and beyond, tea stalls or chai-wallas (tea
makers) are common sights on the streets of Delhi, where they serve tea to passersby and local vendors.
Its an integral part of life here, especially in business matters: While shopping in the north, you might be
asked to sit and have tea, which will be fetched from the nearest stall by a shop employee (or relative) and
brought to you at no cost. Although chai generically means tea in much of India, what you get will
likely be a tiny glass of the milky, spiced, sweet drink thats more accurately called masala chai, in which
water, black tea leaves (often Assam or Darjeeling), milk, sugar, and masala, or spices, are boiled together
before straining. The pungency of the masala will vary by place, but usually the mix counts cardamom,
cinnamon, and black pepper among its ingredients. Chai is generally pretty safe to drink, as the water is
thoroughly boiled, although its not a bad idea to request a plastic cup in case of suspect glass-washing.
Where: Ours is from a teeny no-name Old Delhi tea stall on Kucha Pati Ram, on the same road as our
favorite kulfi joint (approx. map). (To get there from the Chawri Bazaar metro station, find Sitaram
Bazaar and take the second right onto Kucha Pati Ram, just past New Ashoka Sweets. The tea stall is on
the right.)
Order: Tea (6 rupees), of course! The chai-walla boiled the water and tea leaves for a few minutes in
front of us, and we watched him add the spices and milk over heat before straining the pot into plastic
cups for us. The masala was mild, but tasty. The best part for us was the brief foray into Delhi street life:
the watching and waiting, standing around to let it cool, chatting with other customers and the guys in the
barbershop across the street. Theres certainly no lack of stimuli in these parts!

9.

PA A N

What: Common all over India, paan is the traditional betel leaf palate-cleanser-cum-digestive, dating to
ancient times, thats chewed at (what seems like) all hours, but mostly after meals. From behind street
stalls or inside shops, youll see the wide green leaves ritualistically filled and folded into triangles with a
bewildering and picturesque assortment of ingredients, depending on whats orderedchopped areca nut,
slaked lime paste (chuna), and red katha paste, the basic ingredients that together work as a caffeine-like
stimulant; cardamom, tobacco, dried coconut, rose petal or sugar paste, fruit preserves or syrups, aniseed,
clove, lots of other spicesand quickly wedged inside the cheeks of locals. Though there are today many
variations on paan, for our purposes well divide them into three types: meetha, or sweet
paan; zarda paan (containing tambaku, or tobacco)infamous for its teeth- and sidewalk-staining
properties, as the red juice is usually spit outand saada, or simple, paan, which generally contains only
the basic three ingredients. We dont encourage the taking of tobacco, and saada, though the most
traditional, is also alleged to be carcinogenic (thanks to the areca nut), so we stuck to the meetha variety.
Keep in mind that no matter how much sugar or fruit (or chocolate!) is added, all paan, with its intense
flavor combinations and earthy textures, is an acquired taste. Being such an integral part of Indian
culture, it is, of course, a must-try.
Where: One of central Delhis popular paan parlors, Yamus Panchayat (92, NDMC Market, map), on
Connaught Places Outer Circle, is a good place to safely try lots of different paans, all of which are
advertised here as spit free. Admittedly more beloved by young Delhiites than old-timers, Yamus still
provides a great introduction to the art, and probably a good indication of where its headed.
When: Daily, 11am-midnight
Order: While Yamus does carry simple (25 rupees) and basic meetha paan (30 rupees), more like what
youd find on the street, the specialty here is flavored paan (40 rupees), of which there are 21 varieties,
from mango and cola to pineapple and vanilla. Most of these mix the flavor of choice with more
traditional ingredients like coconut, aniseed, lime juice, elaichi (cardamom), dried dates, and sugarcoated mukhwas, or mouth freshener. We tried strawberry, which was verysweet, and the more
appetizing chocolate (pictured), drizzled with chocolate syrup and piled with milk chocolate pieces,
among other things. An interesting combination, to say the least!

10.

R A J K AC H O R I

What: This colorful chaat, or snack, is quite popular in Delhi and other parts of northern India. It
consists of kachori, small fried, bready balls, and a variety of other yummy thingschickpeas, potatoes,
tomatoes, moong sprouts, masalas, yogurt, coriander and tamarind chutneys, pomegranate seeds,
crunchy sevstuffed inside and atop a thin and very crispy-fried puri-like hollow shell. The various
chutneys and yogurt coat the whole affair, making it a perfect mix of wet and crunchy, sweet and tangy,
spicy and cooling. In other words: an ideal, fun-to-eat chaat.
Where: The raj kachori at Haldirams (multiple branches including 1454/2, Chandni Chowk, Old
Delhi, map), the popular chaat-and-sweets chain celebrated for its hygienic preparations, is very popular,
and for good reason. Moreover, this particular three-story branch, despite often being crowded, makes a
nice air-conditioned oasis in the midst of Chandni Chowks crush of humanitya must on any Old Delhi
food crawl.
Order: You should try other chaats or thalis here, but definitely include the very fresh-tasting raj kachori
(68 rupees), and follow it up with some sweets from the ground floor.

11. P H I R N I

What: This North Indian dessert is made of rice flour or ground rice, milk, and sugar; it has the delicious,
subtly sweet taste of rice pudding, but a creamy, smooth texture. Its usually topped with pistachio nuts
and served chilled in earthenware bowls. Like the similar kheer, phirni is especially popular during
Ramadan and in Muslim restaurants.
Where: Its not always on the menu, but our phirni is from Purani Dilli (2698-3371; 371 Main Rd.,
Zakir Nagar, Okhla, Jamia Nagar, map), a terrific Mughlai restaurant inside mazelike Zakir Nagar, a
Muslim enclave not far from New Friends Colony in South Delhi.
When: Daily, 3pm-11pm
Order: Close out your Mughlai feastchicken changezi and ishtu, mutton haleemand nihariwith a
small cooling bowl of phirni (25 rupees), topped with pistachio and slivered almonds.

12. M U T T O N B U R R A

What: Mutton (usually goat, in India) is perhaps most memorable cooked as a burra kebab: marinated,
skewered, roasted and charred in the tandoor, on the bone. When done well, its tender, spicy, smoky
meatan ideal component of a carnivorous Mughlai feast.
Where: Perhaps the most celebrated version of this dish is that found at one of Old Delhis most
celebrated restaurants: Karim Hotel (Gali Kababian, Jama Masjid, map), dating to 1913. Its owners
famously trace their family lineage back to the royal cooks of the Mughal emperors.
When: Daily, 9am-12:30am
Order: The mutton burra (230/440 rupees for half/full order) is a must here; the half order is a little pile
of four mutton pieces, making a perfect appetizer. The tender meat is intensely flavored, well spiced and
redolent of charcoal smoke; before you know it, youre sucking on the bones, near-desperate for another
bite. (For the goat averse, chicken burra is also available, for a few extra rupees.) Follow these up with
more meatmutton seekh kebabs, shami kebabs, maybe some tandoori chicken or mutton kormaand
sweet kheer for dessert.