Bicycle Camping Cookbook

recipes & techniques from the Pacific Coast to inspire adventure and good eating wherever you pedal

by Nick Hormuth and Lindy Patterson

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Bicycle Camping Cookbook

recipes & techniques from the Pacific Coast
to inspire adventure and good eating wherever you pedal

by Nick Hormuth and Lindy Patterson

On days like this I am permeated with a profound gratitude for my bicycle.

Paul de Vivie (1853-1930)

patron saint of bicycle touring

The Pacific Northwest Loop

Seattle

Bellingham

Vancouver

Victoria

Beginning an early summer bike tour in the Pacific Northwest means two
unavoidable realities: water-filled skies and salmon-filled waters. We kind of
came to think of it as the challenge and the reward.
First, the challenge: Here, water reigns. And rains and mists and trickles and
laps and flows all around you. The water tells you where you are, which way
to go, what to wear. This is true for all who live along and around the Salish
Seabut especially true for those on bikes.

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And this watery realm is full of such people: bikers of

every breed, braving every form of moisture, going to
work or school, hauling groceries or children ordid we
just see someone moving a couch by bike? Yes, we did.
Rain or shine or more rain, we were rarely alone and
rarely dry on two wheels. The Cascadian folk, who
pretty much universally wear outdoor gear as everyday
fashion, zip and bundle themselves expertly against the
elements. Are they on their way to a weekday hike or a
to business meeting? Possibly either. Maybe both.
This being the case, it may be the only place on Earth
where you can blend right in with fully loaded bikes and
touring duds. (Maybe New Zealand, but we havent been
there yet.) We thought we were blending pretty well
until the rain set in, and we learned that our Englishstyle rain capes were a pathetic mistake, nowhere near
up to the task of a Pacific Northwestern June. Twenty
minutes into any rainy ride, we were soaked through
and swimming under an unweildy layer of waxed cotton.
Take it from the outdoorsy northwestern folk, make
function your fashion.

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They say to expect this kind of rain in June. They are right. They also say to expect a rather cold
reception from the locals. In this, we found they to be very wrong indeed. We were greeted with
warmth and kindness equal to every rainy ride.
In a Washington State park campground, a ranger shepherded us under a group shelter with a
wood-burning stove. He brought us extra and dry firewood. In Vancouver, we were taken under-wing
by a cycling angel waving a huge Canadian flag high up on a bike-mounted pole. He whisked us off
the congested four-lane road suggested by our map route and onto unmarked scenic biways along
canals and through urban forests all the way to our downtown destination. There, another local
took us in and fed us spaghetti and meatballs and beer until we passed out from happy, full-bellied
exhaustion. A Victoria woman gave us the keys to her cottage and an invitation to harvest anything
that looked good from her backyard garden. The kale and peas are out of control. Eat as much you
can manage!
Standing in our own puddles one day inside a cozy little market in Sequim, Washington, drinking hot
coffee that the owner made fresh when he saw us come in from the rain, our basket loaded up with
fresh duck eggs, blueberries, mushrooms and chocolates, the woman in line ahead of us apologized
for her Cascadian kin: Were not known for being good to strangers up here. This, as she thoughtfully made room for us and our dripping, capes and our overflowing panniers at the counter. Here,
you two go ahead of me. You better get out there before it starts up again. It did, of course, start up
again as soon as we started rolling.
We biked wet along sounds and lakes, ship canals, portage bays, rivers, creeks, endless streams and
bodies of water. The water here is really just endless. And its constantly moving, complex, shape
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shifting. We misidentified lakes as rivers, bays as lakes, the

Sound as the open sea. In a place so full of water, everything appears paradoxically desaturated. All the lushness
of the landscape sighs under a gray shroud of wetness.
That is until the sun comes out. And thenclouds
evaporate and the world is transformed. Front yard
gardens seem to explode all at once with exuberant sundrunk flora. Bodies shed their gear and lay on the grass
next to their bicycles, making a picnic out of whatevers
close at hand. Sails glitter on suddenly blue water. In a
moment, the gray sogginess evaporates and everyone
and everything seems to smile and blink together up at
the sun.
Everything we encountered seems to flow from and to
these bodies of water with a kind of reverence. Not just
the food, but also the art and poetry and industry.
The Seattle Art Museum holds a few lyrical examples,
including a gargantuan, undulating, acid-washed steel
sculpture by Richard Serra. It sits on the shore of
Puget Sound and gives you the feeling of walking through
a gentle but powerful current. The museums description
reads:

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The whole cannot be

known at once, only
experienced with physical
movement and
progressively over time.
Like coming to know a landscape by bike, discovering
its beauty and bounty one mile, one meal, at a time.
Which brings us to the reward, that other constant,
albeit more comfortable reality of early summer in
the Pacific Northwest: salmon. And alongside this
cuisine-defining fish, other summer staples of the
region: apricots, asparagus, mushrooms, chards,
cabbages, cherries, leafy greens, juice-swollen berries.
Feasting on all the well-watered goodness, we found
ourselves a little forgiving of all that rain.

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42

MENU INSPIRATION
hazelnuts

from the Pacific Northwest loop

Hazelnut Cheese Spread (first bite)

salmon

Cabbage-Wrapped Salmon with Oranges & Ginger (dinner)

apricot

Apricot-Blueberry Sticky Rice (dessert)

blueberry
cabbage

Creamy Oatmeal with Fruits & Nuts (breakfast)

Purple Slaw with Oranges & Hazelnuts (lunch)

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Hazelnut Cheese Spread

Fatty, full of protein, shot with sugary dried fruit (we like
it with figs), and rich with different textures and flavors,
this satisfying first bite tastes fancy and couldnt be
easier to throw together.

FIRST

BITE
1/8 c dried fruit, chopped
1/8 c toasted hazelnuts, chopped
1 tbsp mint, finely chopped
4 oz cream cheese
1 package rice crackers
optional: candied ginger, minced

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Combine all ingredients except the

crackers together in a bowl and mix
until evenly dispersed.
Smear your spread onto the crackers
and start munching or dress it up with
a little candied ginger and mint
sprinkled on top of each.

DINNER
Cabbage-Wrapped Salmon
with Oranges & Ginger

The light zing of orange and ginger combine

with the rich depth of salmon on a vibrant
bed of purple cabbage. Grand and simple,
this dish may be the closest thing to an ocean
sunset you can eat.

4 red cabbage leaves

2 rectangles of foil
8 oz salmon (2 4-oz fillets)
2 tbsp ginger, minced
2 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp brown sugar
pepper to taste
1 orange, sliced thinly

Remove any soggy or bruised outer layers from the

cabbage and carefully pull away four of the larger outer
leaves for wrapping the fish. Set 2 aside and place one each
on its own 12 x 24 sheet of foil, just to one side of center.
Rinse salmon fillets thoroughly in water and pat dry.
Place one on each cabbage leaf, skin-side down, and rub
the meaty side evenly with minced ginger and brown
sugar. Douse with soy sauce, sprinkle with pepper, and
top with orange slices. Cover each dressed fillet with
the remaining cabbage leaves.
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Cabbage-Wrapped Salmon
with Oranges & Ginger (cont)

Seal foil packets en papillote (method

described on page 17).
Place foil packs on the grill for about
7 minutes. They should puff up with
steam. Flip and cook for another
5 minutes then carefully unfold the
edges of each pouch and check for
doneness.
Cooking time will vary based on
thickness of the fillets and the heat of
your fire. You should find just a little
translucent, almost raw-looking fish at
the very center of the thickest part.
The fish is most delicious when you
leave this slightly rare.
Remove from heat and serve over
coconut rice.

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Good to know about

SALMON
A) Always go wild. Its sustainable and more
delicious, so theres really no reason to go
for the farmed stuff. Wild salmon season
runs from May through November.
B) Look for locally caught Sockeye in
Washington. While the fatty Chinook (aka
King Salmon) has attracted more culinary
glory, we like the richer texture and more
salmony flavor of the darker red, hyperlocal Sockeye.
C) Look for thick belly fillets (rather than the
thinner tails) for the richest flavor.

(cont)

DINNER

Coconut Rice
Transform your basic filler starch into a rich, mildly sweet flavor
foundation for fish, curries, stir-fries, you-name-it. The quantities
listed here should yield about 3 cups. Eat two with your salmon
and save the rest for dessert.

1 1/2 c instant rice

3/4 c water
3/4 c coconut milk
salt to taste

Cook your parboiled rice according to

package instructions (typically 1-to-1
parboiled rice-to-water), substituting
half the water with coconut milk.
Add salt to taste.

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DESSERT
Apricot-Blueberry Sticky Rice
This simple approximation of the classic Thai dessert transforms leftover
coconut rice into an afterdinner treat. Instead of a globetrotting mango,
we used northwestern apricots and blueberries, but you can really use any
fleshy fruit, depending on whats fresh and available. The sticky, fruit-filled
rice needs just a quick visit to the firepit to give it a caramelly finish.

1 c leftover coconut rice

1 tbsp brown sugar
2 squares foil
1 ripe apricot, diced
1/4 c blueberries
optional: fresh mint leaves

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Stir sugar into your leftover rice. Halve and spread out in a 1/2inch thick layer on two squares of foil. Divide the fruit evenly
between the two. Wrap the rice up and around the fruit center to
form a ball, then raise and twist the corners of foil together to form
a closed packet. Drop into the firepit, near hot coals for 3-5 minutes. Twist open, top with mint, and enjoy.

BREAKFAST

1 cup rolled oats

2 cups water
1 tbsp brown sugar
2 tbsp cream cheese
1 ripe apricot, chopped
1/4 cup blueberries
1/4 tsp cinnamon
a handful of hazelnutes,
chopped

Creamy Oatmeal with Fruits & Nuts

Many a big day of touring begins with an energy-packed
oatmeal breakfast. This trusy fuel can, however, get a little
humdrum and lifeless after more than a few days on the
road. You can always bring it back to life with a variety of
fresh fruits and nuts, or, every now and thenas we did
in this recipea pleasantly plump dollop or two of cream
cheese. This less expected dairy gives your oats a tangy
flavor and a richer finish without feeling too heavy.

Combine oats and water in a

pot over medium heat. Bring to
a simmer, stirring occasionally.
When the rolled oats begin to
soften and the water to thicken, add the brown sugar and
cream cheese, testing every
couple minutes for desired
texture. We like to keep ours a
little firm. Serve topped with
chopped fruit and hazelnuts.
Add another little drop of
cream cheese and a sprinkling
of sugar, if you like.
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LUNCH
Good to know about

CABBAGE

Perhaps no vegetable travels

better or looks prettier on the
plate than purple cabbage. It
can hold up to the harsh conditions of the bike campers
pannier for several days and in
most any weather.
More important yet, this versatile vegetable is delicious
raw or cooked. And there are
lots of ways to do either. Boil
it. Braise it. Steam it. Throw
it in a stir fry. Saut it with a
splash of vinegar. Chop it up
into a stew. Use a leaf as a
taco shell.
Oh yeah, its also really really
good for you.

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Purple Slaw

with Oranges & Hazelnuts

in Coconut Milk Dressing
We love a big protein-rich salad
like this for lunch. Just toss it all
together after breakfast and let
it marinate in the dressing while
your ride. This works great
with any wilt-resistant salad
base: cabbage, broccoli, carrots,
beets, or even beans. When
you stop for lunch, grab a fresh
loaf of crusty bread, crackers,
or wraps to scoop and soak up
all that decadent coconut milk
dressing.

salad
1/2 a small head of purple
cabbage, shredded
2 navel oranges, peeled and
cut into bite-size bits
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint
dressing
1/3 cup apple cider vinegar
2 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp brown sugar
3/4 cup coconut milk
1 tsp minced ginger
1/2 tsp garlic powder
pepper to taste
topping
1 cup chopped hazelnuts
(or substitute almonds)

Toss together the cabbage, oranges, and mint in a large container.

Whisk all dressing ingredients together in a small bowl. Combine
salad and dressing and seal tightly to keep until you stop for lunch.
Sprinkle with nuts and eat up.

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SPEAKING OF

FISH
[in progress]