Variedades de couves

Seguem-se algumas variedades de couve mais comuns.

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Couve para chucrute: é branca e tem uma grande coração (5 a 7 kg).

 
Couve-branca: tem folhas lisas verdes-pálidas e um coração muito compacto. Este
legume entra na composição de numerosos pratos (sopas, saladas, recheios, guisados) e
as suas folhas podem servir de papillotes.
 
Couve-coração: muito compacta, tem forma cónica e folhs verde-claras. A sua época é
na primavera.
 
Couve-lombarda: tem folhas verdes, mais ou menos claras, pouco duras e enrugadas.
Tem sabor mais suave que o da couve-branca, que pode substituir em muitas receitas.
Costuma ser recheada.
 
Couve-roxa: tem folhas lisas e costuma ser combinada (sobretudo na Europa Central)
com fruta e outros ingredientes adocicados, como a beterraba (borscht) ou a maçã.
Também se come crua e ralada. Para que não escureça, é costume regá-la com vinagre a
ferver.
 
Couves-chinesas: aclimatadas na Europa desde o começo do século XIX, têm sabor
mais suave do que as europeias. Costumam ser usadas cruas em saladas (com camarão e
sementes de sésamo), cozidas com arroz e grão-de-bico e salteadas com cebolas e maçã.
A pe-tsai tem folhas tenras verde-pálidas e talos brancos compridos, assemelhando-se a
uma alface-romana. A pak choi é uma variedade que começa a vulgarizar-se nos
supermercados das grandes cidades. Tem folhas reunidas em roseta com nervuras
brancas, largas, carnudas e achatadas; corte-lhes o talo principal e use-as inteiras.
- See more at: http://www.seleccoes.pt/Variedades-de-couves#sthash.Rja2mVT2.dpuf

Muito além da feijoada

A couve de folha ou couve comum é muito rica em nutrientes, especialmente cálcio, ferro, vitaminas A,C,
K e B5. É escassa em calorias, mas satisfaz muito bem a sensação de apetite, portanto, pode ser
aproveitada em regimes para obesos.

É uma hortaliça originada da costa do Mediterrâneo e pertence à família das Brássicas, assim como o
repolho, o brócolis, a couve-flor e o rabanete.

COMO COMPRAR

A couve é colhida durante todo o ano, mas como é favorecida por clima ameno os menores preços
ocorrem de junho a outubro.

No Brasil, somente são plantadas couves de folhas lisas, sendo as do grupo manteiga as mais comuns.
Essas possuem folhas verde-claro, tenras, lisas ou pouco onduladas, com peciolo e nervura verde-clara.

As folhas devem estar com aspecto de produto fresco, ou seja, sem manchas escuras ou amarelas, sem
sinais de murcha e com os talos firmes.
As folhas de couve são comercializadas na forma de maço. Deve-se escolher o maço com cuidado, pelo
seu aspecto, evitando quebrá-lo ou machucá-lo, para não danificar aqueles que serão comprados por
outros consumidores.

A couve pode ser comercializada na forma minimamente processada, ou seja, já picada e embalada. É
fundamental que esse produto esteja exposto em gôndolas refrigeradas para garantir a sua adequada
conservação. Evite comprar este produto quando as folhas estiverem murchas e com pontos escuros,
principalmente nas bordas, e cheiro alterado.

COMO CONSERVAR

A couve é uma hortaliça que se conserva por pouco tempo, murchando e amarelecendo rapidamente.
Em condição ambiente, deve ser mantida com os talos dentro de uma vasilha com água ou dentro de
saco de plástico aberto, em local bem fresco, por até um dia. Quando conservada em geladeira, inteira ou
picada, deve ser mantida em saco de plástico fechado ou em vasilha de plástico tampada, conservando-
se por até uma semana, quando inteira ou por três dias, quando picada.

A couve pode ser congelada. Para tanto, deve ser picada fina e colocada em saco de plástico do qual
deve se retirar a maior quantidade possível de ar.

COMO CONSUMIR

A couve pode ser consumida crua, na elaboração de saladas e sucos, refogada ou como ingrediente de
sopas, farofas e cozidos.

Lave as folhas uma por uma em água corrente. Se for consumir as folhas cruas é necessário deixá-las de
molho em solução de água sanitária por 30 minutos na proporção de 1 colher de sopa de água sanitária
para 1 litro de água filtrada. Em seguida, enxágüe-as com água filtrada. A solução de água sanitária não
deverá ser reutilizada. A água sanitária ou o vinagre não retiram resíduos de agrotóxicos, mas são
importantes para eliminar microorganismos que possam causar doenças.

A couve pode ser picada fina ou rasgada na preparação de cozidos. Deve-se cozinhá-la
preferencialmente no vapor, utilizando-se uma panela própria ou ainda uma peneira sobre a panela com
água fervente, colocando-se uma tampa sobre a peneira para acelerar e uniformizar o cozimento.

Tanto ao refogar como ao cozinhar a couve, deve-se evitar deixá-la muito tempo no fogo, pois fica escura
e com o sabor ruim.

Quando congelada, a couve não se presta para consumo na forma crua, devendo ser usada somente em
pratos cozidos. O descongelamento é feito ao fogo, durante o processo de preparo.
DICAS

Experimente comer a couve refogada como recheio de sanduíche, com pão tipo francês.

Prefira o consumo da couve crua, pois o cozimento resulta em perda de parte das vitaminas

A couve para congelamento deve ser picada e não rasgada.

BENEFÍCIOS E PROPRIEDADES DA
COUVE.
Brassica oleracea
Descrição : Da família das Brassicaceae, também conhecida como cove, kale, col,
chou, cavolo, garten-kohl. Plantas bienal, de 40 cm a 1,20 metros de altura, com
caule ereto, cilíndroco, robusto e carnoso. As folhas são pecioladas, espessas eum
pouco carnosas. As flores são grandes, de cor branca ou amarelada, dispostas em
raminhos. Crescem em diferentes climas, mas vivem melhor em temperaturas
amenas. Suportam geadas e temperaturas abaixo de 10 graus centígrados.
Apreciam solos argilosos. Seu cultivo deve ser feito antre os meses de março e
setembro, em fileiras bem espaçadas, por estacas de ramos ou pelos brotos que
nascem nas laterais da planta-mãe. A colheita, geralmente, deve ocorrer 90 dias
após o palntio. Por seleção agronômica, existem variedades de couve que diferem
entre si, no porte, no colorido das folhas, nas inflorescências e na rais. A variedade
de couve repolhuda ou repolho, tem as folhas sobrepostas, com forma arredondada
e se desenvolvem rente ao solo; a couve-crespa apresenta as folhas compridas,
enrrugadas e suculentas; a couve tronchuda possui as folhas maiores que a da
couve-repolhuda, mas com o desenvolvimento semelhante; a couve rábano possui
o caule muito carnoso e comestível; a couve-flor tem inflorescências comestíveis e
a couve de bruxelas tem o caule bem comprido, folhas com pecíolos na base, dos
quais nascem pequenos brotos redondos e com desenvolvimento semelhante à da
variedade repolho. A colheita de cada variedade tem métodos apropriados.

São conhecidos, pelo menos, cinco grupos diferentes dessa planta:

1) Couves "sem cabeça" ou que fecham pouco; caules não-espessos, produzindo

folhas durante o período vegetativo;

2) Repolhos: caules curtos terminando-numa reunião de folhas ("cabeça") muito

encostadas-umas às outras;

3) Couve-de-bruxellas: caule ramificado, brotos laterais curtos;

4) Couve-nabo e C. ruíabaga; caules hipertrofiados, in-tumescimento subterrâneo

ou à flor da terra e C. rábano, intumescimento aéreo;

5) Couve-brócolos e C-flor: inflorescências carnosas e comestíveis. Dos quatro

últimos grupos vamos falar de conformidade com a ordem da seriação por nomes
vulgares, sendo que o terceiro e quarto grupos pertencem a espécies visinhas,
porém distintas; quanto às do primeiro grupo, que se acham cultivadas no Brasil,
muitas introduzidas e até profusamente distribuídas gratuitamente pelo Governo de
São Paulo, iremos tratar, embora superficialmente. A maior parte delas é usada na
alimentação humana em grande escala, constituindo mesmo um elemento
importantíssimo e totalmente indispensável a todos os povos civilizados, pois que,
da abundância ou ausência de legumes verdes nos mercados, pode-se ajuizar, sem
erro, do grau de adiantamento da respectiva população. A couve, embora não
muito nutritiva é, no entanto, muito saudável. A acusação que se faz para o repolho
não é verdadeiro, quando taxa-se-o de indigesto, pois os alemães o consomem em
enormes proporções com o seu famoso "chucrute", sem que se tenha confirmado a
acusação que lhe fazem. Todas as couves são antiscorbúticas e no passado
constituíram a base de toda medicação, pois que são eficazes contra a prisão de
ventre, a fraqueza da vista, os tremores dos membros e o ataque de gota. Já as
sementes acalmam as cólicas em geral. Nas suas folhas a indústria apícola encontra
um valioso auxiliar.

As principais variedades cultivadas entre nós e que pertencem ao primeiro grupo, o

qual compreende a variedade Acephala, DC., cujas variedades hortícolas não
formam "cabeça" e de que é tipo a couve-galega, e a variedade sabauda L., de
variedades hortícolas com folhas crespas, enrugadas e bolhosas, de que é tipo a
couve-de-saboya ou de Milão, algumas não formando cabeça e outras formando-a,
porém frouxa:

1) — Couve-cavaleira arbórea ou cove-de-vaca; planta vigorosa e alta, até 2m

de altura, com folhas lisas, grandes e ligeiramente enrugadas. Dá ótima forragem
para porcos, galinhas, carneiros, coelhos, etc. Na ilha de Jérsey seus caules são
aproveitados para bengalas que são objeto de comércio e uma das curiosidades
que todos os excursionistas adquirem como lembrança da visita ao local.

2) — Couve cavaleira-vermelha porte menor que a precedente, porém ainda

mais rústica, pecíolos e nervuras das folhas avermelhados. Igualmente forra ém em
média 8,9% de matéria seca, 1,9% de proteína bruta digestível e 1,3% de proteína
real digestível, sendo de 15,96 o valor líquido da energia em grandes calorias.

3) — Couve-celga verde-amarelada de Dreiembrunnen: planta sem "cabeça",

verdura excelente para a mesa.

4) — Couve de Ia Sarthe: forrageira e muito produtiva, em França entra também

na alimentação humana, pelo menos na estação primaveril.

5) — Couve de Milão "Favorita de Grrot": folhas frizadas, variedade precoce.

6) — Couve-de-milão "Victoria": folhas numerosas e tão delicadamente

enrugadas que é inconfundível mesmo com as demais variedades de folhas iguais,
folhas tenras, macias e saborosas, forma "cabeça" grande, verde-amarelada.

7) — Couve-de-mosbach: folhas verde-claro, quase pálido, numerosas, frisadas,

as superiores recurvadas para trás, nervuras brancas, fortes, caule de 60-70cm.
Boa como legume, é tambem ornamental.

8) — Couve-de-sabóia "das Virtudes" ou couve-de-milão "das Virtudes":

folhas exteriores numerosas, grandes, rugosas, abertas, verde-escuro, glaucas,
folhas interiores formando "cabeça" achatada, às vezes lavada de cor de vinho.

9) — Couve-de-sabóia "precoce de Aubervilliers" ou couve-de-milão

"grossa das Virtudes": variedade obtida da anterior e que dela se distingue
principalmente por ter o caule mais curto, a cor mais loura e menos glauca, as
folhas mais finamente enrugadas e a "cabeça" mais achatada.

10) — Couve-de-Sabóia dourada ou couve-de-milão dourada: folhas

interiores grandes, verdes, muito mais enrugadas e quase todas inclinadas para
trás, de cor loura, quase amarela, "cabeça" comprida, pouco fechada.

11) — Couve de Sabóia verde ou couve-lombarda ou couve-de-milão

ordinária: folhas exteriores grandes, verde-glauco, enrugadas, as interiores
formam uma cabeça" regular, pouco fechada.

12) — Couve-aglega ou couve-mineira, também chamada de todo ano. Planta

de grande e rápido desenvolvimento, atingindo mais de 4m de altura se lhe forem
cortando as folhas novas, boas para a mesa; quando velhas servem para forragem.

13) — Couve-lombarda, de pé alto, folhas bolhosas e enrugadas fechando em

"cabeça" antes da inflorescência. Deve pertencer à série das couves-de-milão ou de
Sabóia.

14) — Couve-manteiga: folhas verde-amareladas, não muito grandes, tenras,

fortemente intumescidas e enrugadas, caule alto. Há uma espécie denominada
"especial" ou "lisa", bem verde, ainda mais aconselhada para a mesa e que é uma
das mais cultivadas.

15) — Couve Marcellin ou couve-de-milão anã: folhas grandes, verde-escuro,

finamente enrugadas, estendendo-se em roseta para todos os lados antes de
formar a "cabeça", época em que deve ser colhida. Magnífica pava a mesa.

16) — Couve-meduleira-branca e couve-meduleira-roxa: folhas grandes e

poucas, caule intumescido ou ventrudo, comestível como legume enquanto jovem e
o seu diâmetro não excede de 7cm. É boa forragem, muito digestível e apreciada
pelos animais.

17) — Couve-de-mil-cabeças ou couve-pólo: folhas grandes, oblongas, cretas,

numerosas, boa forragem, especial para pássaros.

18) — Couve-murciana ou couve-de-nápoles: folhas grandes e espessas, quase

arredondadas, verde-escuro na página superior e acizentadas na inferior, forma
"cabeça" porém muito frouxa.

19) —Couve-nabiça: folhas compridas, profundamente lobadaè na base, pecíolos

bancacentos. Muito boa para a mesa.

20) — Couve-penca ou couve-de-espanha, também chamada couve-

madeira: folhas próximas, talos muito brancos e carnosos, forma "cabeça" frouxa
e é muito boa para a mesa.

21) — Couve-ramosa-do-potou: folhas numeorsas e grandes, empregadas na

França para fazer um tipo de caldo verde. Cultivada em São Paulo como forragem.
Sua produção neste Estado é de 70 a 75.000 quilos por hectare.

22) — Tronchuda-portuguesa ou couve-penca-de-chaves, também chamada

Troncha: folhas próximas, fortemente nervadas e com as margens onduladas,
forma "cabeça" pequena e pouco compacta.
23) — Villariça: folhas largas, nervuras muito grossas, brancas e tenras. — Estão,
pois, reunidas aqui todas ou quase todas as variedades do primeiro grupo que se
acham em plena cultura no Brasil. A couve pode ser atacada por várias espécies de
fungos e insetos, como "percevejo-dos-feijões", "hérnia-da-couve", e seus nomes
populares. Todas as demais couves estão sujeitas àqueles elementos destruidores.
Como nos demais países do globo, no Brasil, o consumo da couve em todas as suas
variedades é muito intenso. Na realidade, é prato quase obrigatório em todos os
recantos do nosso país.

Parte utilizada: Folhas, talos, sementes.

Origem : Europa, sendo bem cultivada em todo o Brasil.

Modo de conservar : Deve-se usar as folhas ainda frescas e muito bem lavadas.

Princípios Ativos:Cálcio, cobre, ferro, flúor, fósforo, iodo, minerais, potássio,

vitaminas A, B, C.

Propriedades medicinais: Anti-helmíntica, anti-reumática, aperiente, béquica,

cicatrizante, condicionante, estimulante, expectorante, fortalecedora.

Indicações: Acalmar cólicas (sementes), artrite, bronquite (ajudar), asma,

catarros, cicatrizar úlcera gástrica e duodenal, desinfetar o intestino, diminuir
desejo por bebidas alcoólicas, doenças inflamatórias da pele, dores (ciáticas,
reumáticas, nevrálgicas, de gota), estimular o apetite, febre, fortificar crianças em
fase de crescimento, gota, prisão de ventre, reumatismo, seborréia do couro
cabeludo, tosse, vermes.

Modo de usar:

- Preferencialmente crua em salada ou suco (pois é rica em vitamina C (mais

que a laranja), que se perde com o calor), frita ou refogada com alho e óleo, sopas,
em farofas, recheios de omeletes, lasanhas e panquecas, "charutinhos", recheados
com arroz cozido, legumes, frango desfiado ou carne moída, talos no preparo de
sopas, junto com feijão ou caldos; caldo verde; sucos refrescantes, com suco de
limão e açúcar;

- Sumo do caule: doenças do estômago;

- Suco em jejum: úlceras no estômago, doenças no ouvido, anemia;

- Sumo das folhas, tomar uma xícaras quatro vezes ao dia: abrandar
hemorróidas, úlcera do estômago e do duodeno, tosse, asma, catarros, doenças
inflamatórias da pele, diminuir desejo de bebidas alcólatras;

- Suco e as sementes: vermes; - ferver uma folha de couve em 150 ml de leite

de vaca leite, esperar esfriar e adoçar com mel e tomar: tosse, rouquidão e
bronquite; - uma folha de couve macerada com uma colher das de café de ácido
bórico, usar como compressa para: aliviar ulcerações na pele;

- Uma folha amassada aplicar sobre ferida: cicatrizante;

- Talos, colocados em cachaça. Tomar uma colher das de chá por dia: ajuda a
corrigir os alcoólatras; áticas, reumáticas, nevrálgicas e da gota.
** Sugestões do Sílvio Paniza **

Afecções pulmonares, tosse, asma e bronquite; expectorante : retire a

nervura mediana de 1 folhas e fatie. Em 1 xícara de chá, coloque 1 colher de sopa
de folha fatiada e adicione leite fervente. Deixe esfriar e coe. Tome 1 xícara de chá
de 1 a 3 vezes ao dia, podendo ser adoçado com mel.

Afecções da pele, dermatoses, pruridos e eczemas : em um pilão, coloque 3

colheres de sopa de folhas fatiadas, 1 colher de sopa de suco de limão e 1 xícara de
chá de água. Amasse bem e coe em um pano, espremendo o resíduo. Faça
compressas nas partes afetadas, com alodão embebido nesse líquido, 2 ou 3 vezes
ao dia.

Úlceras estomacais e duodenais; acidez estomacal; intestino preguiçoso:

lave bem 1 punhado de folhas, retire a nervura mediana e fatie. Coma antes das
refeições, regadas com azeite, durante 3 ou 4 semanas.

Dor muscular e nas juntas; reumatísmo; úceras varicosas; feridas

inflamadas; gota; artrite; dor ciática; bevralgias em geral; dor de cabeça ;
em uma panela com água em fervura, coloque uma peneira, de modo que a mesma
não toque n água e sobre a peneira uma pano e 1 punhado de folhas fatiadas.
Manter em fervura para adsorver os vapores quentes. Ainda morno, aplique o pano
com as folhas nas partes afetadas e cubra com um outro pano. deixe agir por 2
horas ou durante a noite toda.

Alcoolismo crônico : retire os cabinhos de 5 folhas, fatie bem esses e coloque em

1 xícara de chá de álcool de cereais a 50%. DEixe em maceração por 5 dias e coe.
Tome 1 colher de sobremessa, diluído em um pouco de água, 3 vezes ao dia.

Couve

ORIGEM

Oriunda das regiões do Mar Mediterrâneo, é cultivada no Brasil desde a época colonial.

TIPOS
Couve simples (Manteiga ou Mineira)

Couve–de-Bruxelas

Couve-Flor

COUVE SIMPLES (Manteiga ou Mineira)

CARACTERÍSTICAS

É a mais conhecida e consumida, tem folhas grandes e lisas, recobertas por um tipo de serosidade, que
lhe dá brilho e resistência; a cor é do tipo verde-brilhante.

MODO DE COMPRAR

Idêntico à chicória e a todas as hortaliças folhosas.

MODO DE CONSERVAR

A couve pode ser conservada até por 1 semana, se as folhas forem guardadas inteiras (sem arrancar os
talos), acondicionadas na gaveta da geladeira, dentro de saco plástico. O ideal é consumir até, no
máximo, 3 dias após a compra. Se quiser conservá-la por período maior, é conveniente congelar.

MODO DE PREPARAR

Todas as hortaliças folhosas devem ser lavadas abundantemente em água corrente, a fim de remover
pequenos insetos e impurezas diversas.

Outras dicas

1 - após essa lavagem, mergulhar as peças numa vasilha, contendo uma mistura de água com limão

2 - na secção de verduras dos supermercados, há produtos que ajudam a promover essa limpeza.

MODO DE CONSUMIR
A couve pode compor pratos como: - cozidos e ensopados;- feijoada;- feijão tropeiro;- tutu à mineira;-
refogada; - saladas cruas, quando são bem melhor aproveitados os seus nutrientes.

OBSERVAÇÃO

É uma boa prática mastigar bastante todo e qualquer alimento antes de ingerir, para que não haja má
digestão e, no caso da couve, com muito mais razão, devido à sua consistência mais rija.

COMPOSIÇÃO

Em 100 gramas, encontramos:

Proteínas = 4 g

Cálcio = 31 mg (Atenção: Tanto quanto o leite de vaca)

Fósforo = 77 mg

Ferro = 1,1mg

Sódio = 9 mg

Potássio = 411 mg

Vitaminas: - A (Beta-caroteno)

Complexo B; - C; - K

Celulose

Fibras (mais nos talos)

Ácido Fólico

Bioflavonóides

OBSERVAÇÃO

Mesmo cozida pode causar flatulência (gases intestinais).

VALOR CALÓRICO
100 gramas de couve-manteiga crua apresentam 25 calorias e, quando refogada, 146 calorias

INDICAÇÕES TERAPÊUTICAS

Previne e combate distúrbios diversos:

Glândula tireóide

Fígado

Cálculos (pedras) da vesícula biliar e dos rins

Hemorróidas

Tem eficaz efeito para:

Rins

Coração

Olhos

É desintoxicante

O suco de couve é bastante eficaz no tratamento de úlcera do estômago e do duodeno. Segundo

pesquisadores americanos e suíços, o suco deve ser preparado coma couve crua, caso contrário, não
fará o efeito desejado.

Tomado várias vezes ao dia, em torno de 5 dias, as dores cessam e, após 2 semanas, a úlcera
desaparece.
COUVE DE BRUXELAS

ORIGEM

É originária da região mediterrânea Esta hortaliça foi submetida a um processo de pesquisa, em 1750, na
Bélgica, mais precisamente, na capital, Bruxelas, daí a sua denominação

CARACTERÍSTICAS

Tem a forma de repolho, motivo pelo qual também é chamada de “repolinho” ou “repolho de Bruxelas”; -
Cresce em toda a extensão do talo, de tal maneira que este fica totalmente coberto pelos repolinhos.

MODO DE COMPRAR

É vendida por quilo e convém escolher as mais redondas e pesadas; quanto mais firme e verde, mais
fresca ela estará. Quantidade: Calcular 1 quilo para 6 pessoas.

MODO DE CONSERVAR

Esta hortaliça é bem mais resistente do que a couve comum, podendo, portanto, ser conservada por mais
tempo, cerca de uma semana. Uma boa dica: retirar as folhas manchadas ou com imperfeições e, em
seguida, colocar num saco plástico e guardar na gaveta inferior da geladeira.

MODO DE CONSUMIR

Na cozinha, a couve-de-bruxelas é usada de várias maneiras: - em sopas; - ensopada; - cozida; -

refogada; - crua, em saladas; - para aproveitarmos melhor seus nutrientes, devemos cozinhar no vapor ou
em fogo baixo com pouca água.

COMPOSIÇÃO

É uma hortaliça rica em:,

Celulose (fibras)

Sais Minerais:
Fósforo

Ferro

Enxofre

Potássio

Vitaminas

Vitaminas A, C

VALOR CALÓRICO

100 gramas de couve-de-bruxelas crua fornecem 45 calorias.

Copenhagen Market Cabbage Seeds

Copenhagen Market (65-75days)  

Copenhagen Market was produced by Hjalmar Hartman & Co., of Copenhagen,

Denmark and introduced in the U.S. in 1909.  A chance seedling believed to be from the
old German variety Ditmarscher.  Burpee released it publicly in 1911. 
An early ball-head type heirloom cabbage, Copenhagen Market is an excellent cabbage 
that has been an favorite of gardeners, market growers and cabbage fans all over the
world.  Copenhagen Market has literally set the standard as the model for all
commercial cabbage varieties developed since.

Copenhagen Market produces a heavy yield of 4 to 5 pound, 7 inch round heads of

cabbage.  Height of the plant is about 12-14" and width is about 25". 

This tight, well formed head allows the gardener to get far more cabbages in a small
space compared to other varieties. 

An excellent cabbage for fresh or cooked applications. 

Many use Copenhagen Market for a tasty sauerkraut. 

This is a short season variety especially valuable for early planting, but is not
recommended for over-wintering in the Northern states.  Normally does fine over-
wintered in the Southern States where the winters are not as harsh.

1937     McFayden Seed Co. says about Copenhagen Market Cabbage...
"Early, Very solid, and an Immense Yielder. For home growing, for market and for
making into kraut. The heads are perfectly round, 6 to 7 inches in diameter, and weigh 3
1/2 to 4 lbs each. In favorable seasons may reach 5 to 7 lbs. Matures about a week after
Golden Acre."

1936     James Seed Co. says about Copenhagen Market Cabbage....
"The earliest of the ball-shaped cabbages, under favorable conditions maturing a crop in
six weeks from transplanting. The plants are saucer shaped, forming heads averaging 8
lbs. a few inches from the ground, with few outside leaves, thus allowing of close
planting.  Copenhagen Market Cabbage grows to its best if the seed is planted in early
June and the plants set out in July. Fine hard heads will be formed before frost, and
these late heads will keep well if stored in a cool but frost-proof place."

 
 Copenhagen Market Cabbage is a fantastic keeper with tight heads that rarely
split.

Organic Copenhagen Green Cabbage - HEIRLOOM - A great open-pollinated variety for home
gardeners and direct markets. Round solid heads are somewhat variable in size ranging from 3-
4 lbs and 6-8” in diameter with uniform maturity. Compact plants have short stems and sit
close to the ground. Heads hold well in the field without splitting. Great for slow cooking, slaws
and sauerkraut. (Brassica oleracea)
You can grow cabbages in both hot and cool climates if you adjust your planting schedule
to the prevailing conditions.

Row covers are an effective barrier against cabbage butterflies and related pests.

These cabbages were grown in California's Central Valley. Seeds were planted in August
through early September and harvested from November through early February.

You can grow cabbages in both hot and cool climates if you adjust your planting schedule
to the prevailing conditions.
Photo: Boyd Hagen

Add Comment
Print

by Suzanne Ashworth
October 1997
from issue #11

When I laud the merits of cabbage, I try to restrain myself, but it’s a tough task. Besides
containing an astonishingly high amount of vitamin C, cabbage is also the most productive
brassica per square foot, and its flavor can be deliciously sweet, especially if it weathers a
few frosts. But because chilly weather sweetens cabbage, many warm-climate gardeners
don’t bother with it.
I do. I grow cabbage in hot, dry, Sacramento, California. Although I make a special effort, I
wouldn’t call it a bother. I use sensible growing techniques for hot climates, most of which
work in other zones.

Last summer, I went on a quest to find cabbages that would grow well in my climate and
work well in my kitchen. I grew five types—a flat (or drum) head, a conical head, a red, a
savoy, and a light-green round head—each intended for a different culinary use.

Of kings and coles

To make cabbage recipes worthy of the royal table, you need the right cabbage for the right
purpose. Red cabbage’s vibrant color and beauty grace any garden. And in the kitchen, our
all-time favorite cabbage recipe is red cabbage braised in wine with sausage.
Unfortunately, red cabbage has always been difficult to grow well here, so I chose four to
see which would produce the best head: ‘Red Rodan’, ‘Scarlet O’Hara’, ‘Bountiful Garden
Red’, and ‘Rougette’.

Coleslaw needs a tight-headed cabbage that cracks when cut. That way you know it will
stay crunchy. ‘Early Jersey Wakefield’ works in this category and is usually the first
cabbage of the season to be harvested. In search of the perfect coleslaw cabbage for hot
climates, I chose ‘Copenhagen Market’, a round-head, and ‘Rio Verde’, a crunchy cabbage
with a conical shape.

Savoys are a must for stuffed cabbage. Their large, loosely packed leaves make them easy
to prepare as whole, stuffed heads, or with individual leaves removed and filled. ‘Red
Verone’ savoy is my current favorite, but to extend the season I decided to try ‘January
King’ and ‘Chieftain’ savoy.

Sauerkraut requires a big, firm head without too much color. Last year’s sauerkraut was too
green, probably because there were too many outer leaves on small heads. I decided to try
‘Early Dutch Flat Head’, ‘Copenhagen Market’, and ‘Titanic’, all reputed to be excellent for
sauerkraut.
Learn more...
Shifting the season to beat the heat
Winter here consists of some fog and rain
How to use cabbage in your cooking
with temperatures ranging from 30° to
60°F. Those frosty days that sweeten
The fall vegetable garden
cabbage and Brussels sprouts are few if
any. Summer afternoons are frequently in
the 100s. Spring-sown brassicas never produce anything worth eating—it’s just too hot.
The time for me to plant is August through early September, for cabbage that’s ready to eat
from November through early February.

Cool-climate gardeners should time their planting so the cabbage matures during those
weeks with cool temperatures. To estimate this date, you need to know whether the
cabbage you are growing is an early-, mid-, or late-season variety. Early-season varieties
mature in 60 to 80 days, mid-season types in 80 to 90 days, late-season in 90 to 110 days.

When I plant in August, transplants are not an option. The greenhouse is too hot, and
plants don’t germinate well. Direct seeding works much better but requires some extra
labor. With good bed preparation, mulch, and irrigation, cabbage can be coaxed up even in
the August heat.

I prepare my beds in July, digging in compost made from ground-up tree clippings and
rabbit manure. Because cabbage is a heavy feeder, I spread extra rabbit manure over the
planting beds, along with a 2-in. layer of mulch.
After mulching the bed, water it well to keep the soil cool and speed germination. Pull away
the 2-in. layer of mulch in rows about 20 in.
apart. Dig 2-in.-deep holes in the soil,
spaced at 12-in. intervals. Gently firm the
soil to ensure the seeds won’t sink farther.
Place five seeds at the bottom of each hole
and cover them with a tablespoon of damp
soil and 1⁄4 cup of rice hulls or vermiculite,
which don’t compact, making it easy for the
seedlings to push through. Germination
takes three to five days.

Each plant needs plenty of growing room to

reach its potential. So, as soon as the
seedlings germinate, snip off all but two
plants. Don’t pull out the excess seedlings
because you might damage those
remaining. Keep the soil damp but not wet.
When the seedlings have two true leaves A 2-in. layer of rice hulls provides
snip off the smaller plant. Do not transplant. protection from drying or burning out.
You want all of the benefits of direct
seeding so don’t disturb your plants.

During the next two months, your cabbages will grow big loose leaves and then start to
form heads. Weeds are not much of a problem with adequate mulch. Constant attention to
water keeps the plants growing quickly. If you do not have a rich composted manure, give
the cabbages weekly feedings of half-strength fish emulsion.

Pesky cabbage butterflies

By far the biggest pest for my brassicas is the white cabbage butterfly and her cousins. In
climates where heat is not a problem, the entire bed can be covered after seeding with
spun polyester row covers. This prevents butterflies from laying eggs on the new plants.
Some gardeners also try using butterfly nets to catch the butterflies for squishing.

Row covers keep cabbage moths from laying eggs on plants.

Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is an effective organic control. It will kill many different kinds of
caterpillars, so use it selectively or you may also kill the butterflies you enjoy. Bt is most
effective sprayed in the early morning or evening. Be sure to spray the entire plant,
including the undersides of the leaves. Monitor the damage and keep a good perspective
on the problem. Plants with six or more leaves can easily deal with 15% of the leaf surface
being eaten. Excessive damage requires repeat spraying. Rain or overhead watering
washes off the Bt, making additional spraying necessary.

As soon as the plants have 6-in. heads, pull off one of the leaves near the forming head
and taste. If the leaf is beginning to taste sweet and crunchy, the cabbage will be ready
soon. If not, be patient and wait for the taste to mellow. The plants will store sugar in
response to cooler weather.

When the cabbages are ready to harvest, take a sharp knife and cut the head off the plant.
I pull up the plants after the head is harvested, but you can leave them in the ground, and
several golf-ball-size, loose-leaf heads will spring up just below the cut.

Pick a batch from the cabbage patch when heads firm up and sweeten. From left to right:
'Scarlet O'Hara', 'Early dutch Flat Head', 'Titanic', 'Chieftain' savoy, 'Red Verone' savoy.

Picking the winners

In late January I picked the winners of the year’s trials. It was real easy in the red cabbage
category. ‘Bountiful Garden’ and ‘Rougette’ failed to produce any solid heads. ‘Red Rodan’
produced a very small but tight 4-in. head. ‘Scarlet O’Hara’ was wider with a 6-in. tight head
and was the most colorful of the reds; it gets my vote.

‘Early Jersey Wakefield’ was the earliest coleslaw cabbage and made tasty but strongly
flavored slaw. In a cooler climate, the strong taste would probably be mitigated.
‘Copenhagen’ was a disappointment. The heads were tight and crunchy, and the flavor was
mild, but mold spots appeared throughout the leaves. ‘Rio Verde’ had a mild flavor but
didn’t form tight heads. ‘Titanic’ was three
weeks later than ‘Early Jersey Wakefield’
and had tight heads and a nice mild flavor.

‘Red Verone’ still takes top billing in the

savoy category. The heads are nicely
formed, the color outstanding, and the
flavor mild. ‘January King’ savoy had small,
tight heads. ‘Chieftain’ savoy had very open
heads that were not well formed, but the
leaves had a lovely texture that looked
great in the garden.

‘Early Dutch Flat Head’ produced nice

heads for sauerkraut. ‘Titanic’ also did well.
The heads were tight, heavy, and shredded
'Red Verone' savoy is a regal beauty with
a mild flavor.
easily. The sauerkraut made from both varieties fermented nicely.

Next year’s selections? ‘Early Jersey Wakefield’ for early coleslaw; ‘Titanic’ to extend the
season; ‘Scarlet O’Hara’ for the best of the reds; ‘Red Verone’ savoy for stuffing; and either
or both 'Early Dutch Flat Head' or 'Titanic' for sauerkraut.

Evaluation of Cabbage Varieties for Resistance to the

Cabbage Aphid

D.C. Munthali

Resistance of nine cabbage (Brassica oleracea van capitata) cultivars, Big cropper, Cape Spitz,
Copenhagen Market, Conquistador, Drumhead, Giant Drumhead, Glory of Enkhuizen,
Grandslam and Hercules to cabbage aphid (Brevicoryne brassicae) was studied in greenhouse
experiments conducted at the Botswana College of Agriculture, Gaborone, Botswana. Cabbage
aphids caused 85 % leaf damage on the most susceptible cultivar, Drumhead, and only 30.9 and
44.6 % on the more resistant cultivars, Grandslam and Copenhagen Market, respectively.
Drumhead had the lowest number of aphids per leaf, showing the antibiosis mechanism of
resistance to B. brassicae and yet it suffered the most severe damage. Although Copenhagen
Market was resistant to cabbage aphid damage, it had the greatest abundance of aphids per leaf,
showing that it used the tolerance resistance mechanism against cabbage aphids. Conquistador,
Glory of Enkhuizen, Grandslam and Hercules, which gave the lowest combined effect of
number of aphids multiplied by percentage damaged leaves per plant were the best varieties for
use by farmers. However, since they only achieved partial resistance to the cabbage aphid, their
use is recommended in combination with a low dose of insecticide.

The Project Gutenberg EBook of Cabbages and Cauliflowers: How to Grow

Them, by
James John Howard Gregory

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with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org

Title: Cabbages and Cauliflowers: How to Grow Them

A Practical Treatise, Giving Full Details On Every Point,
Including Keeping And Marketing The Crop

Author: James John Howard Gregory

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* * * * *

Cabbages

and

Cauliflowers:

HOW TO GROW THEM.

A PRACTICAL TREATISE, GIVING FULL DETAILS ON EVERY POINT,

INCLUDING KEEPING AND MARKETING THE CROP.

[Illustration: Cabbage Head]

BY

JAMES J. H. GREGORY,

ORIGINAL INTRODUCER OF THE MARBLEHEAD, DEEP HEAD, WARREN,

ALL SEASONS, HARD HEADING, AND REYNOLDS CABBAGES.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1889, by

JAMES J. H. GREGORY,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.

CONTENTS.
PAGE
OBJECT OF TREATISE
1

THE ORIGIN OF CABBAGE

1

WHAT A CABBAGE IS
2

SELECTING THE SOIL

4

PREPARING THE SOIL

5

THE MANURE
6

HOW TO APPLY THE MANURE

8

MAKING THE HILLS AND PLANTING THE SEED

11

CARE OF THE YOUNG PLANTS

16

PROTECTING THE PLANTS FROM THEIR ENEMIES

18

THE GREEN WORM

22

CLUB, OR STUMP ROOT, OR MAGGOT

24

CARE OF THE GROWING CROP

29

MARKETING THE CROP

30

KEEPING CABBAGE THROUGH THE WINTER

32

HAVING CABBAGE MAKE HEADS IN WINTER

39

FOREIGN VARIETIES OF CABBAGE 43-

45

AMERICAN VARIETIES 46-

60

SAVOY VARIETIES 60-

63
 OTHER VARIETIES 63-
67

CABBAGE GREENS
67

CABBAGE FOR STOCK

69

RAISING CABBAGE SEED

73

COOKING CABBAGE, SOUR-KROUT, ETC.

75

CABBAGE UNDER GLASS

76

COLD FRAME AND HOT-BED

78

CAULIFLOWER, BROCCOLI, BRUSSELS-SPROUTS, KALE

AND SEA-KALE
81

CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS.

OBJECT OF THIS TREATISE.

As a general, yet very thorough, response to inquiries from many of my

customers about cabbage raising, I have aimed in this treatise to tell
them all about the subject. The different inquiries made from time to
time have given me a pretty clear idea of the many heads under which
information is wanted; and it has been my aim to give this with the
same
thoroughness of detail as in my little work on Squashes. I have
endeavored to talk in a very practical way, drawing from a large
observation and experience, and receiving, in describing varieties,
some
valuable information from McIntosh's work, "The Book of the Garden."

THE ORIGIN OF CABBAGE.

Botanists tell us that all of the Cabbage family, which includes not
only every variety of cabbage, Red, White, and Savoy, but all the
cauliflower, broccoli, kale, and brussels sprouts, had their origin in
the wild cabbage of Europe (_Brassica oleracea_), a plant with green,
wavy leaves, much resembling charlock, found growing wild at Dover in
England, and other parts of Europe. This plant, says McIntosh, is
mostly
confined to the sea-shore, and grows only on chalky or calcareous
soils.

Thus through the wisdom of the Great Father of us all, who

occasionally
in his great garden allows vegetables to sport into a higher form of
life, and grants to some of these sports sufficient strength of
individuality to enable them to perpetuate themselves, and, at times,
to
blend their individuality with that of other sports, we have the
heading
cabbage in its numerous varieties, the creamy cauliflower, the
feathery
kale, the curled savoy. On my own grounds from a strain of seed that
had
been grown isolated for years, there recently came a plant that in its
structure closely resembled Brussels Sprouts, growing about two feet
in
height, with a small head under each leaf. The cultivated cabbage was
first introduced into England by the Romans, and from there nearly all
the kinds cultivated in this country were originally brought. Those
which we consider as peculiarly American varieties, have only been
made
so by years of careful improvement on the original imported sorts. The
characteristics of these varieties will be given farther on.

WHAT A CABBAGE IS.

If we cut vertically through the middle of the head, we shall find it

made up of successive layers of leaves, which grow smaller and
smaller,
almost _ad infinitum_. Now, if we take a fruit bud from an apple-tree
and make a similar section of it, we shall find the same structure. If
we observe the development of the two, as spring advances, we shall
find
another similarity (the looser the head the closer will be the
resemblance),--the outer leaves of each will unwrap and unfold, and a
flower stem will push out from each. Here we see that a cabbage is a
bud, a seed bud (as all fruit buds may be termed, the production of
seed being the primary object in nature, the fruit enclosing it
playing
but a secondary part), the office of the leaves being to cover,
protect,
and afterwards nourish the young seed shoot. The outer leaves which
surround the head appear to have the same office as the leaves which
surround the growing fruit bud, and that office closes with the first
year, as does that of the leaves surrounding fruit buds, when each die
and drop off. In my locality the public must have perceived more or
less
clearly the analogy between the heads of cabbage and the buds of
trees,
for when they speak of small heads they frequently call them "buds."
That the close wrapped leaves which make the cabbage head and surround
the seed germ, situated just in the middle of the head at the
termination of the stump, are necessary for its protection and
nutrition
when young, is proved, I think, by the fact that those cabbages, the
heads of which are much decayed, when set out for seed, no matter how
sound the seed germ may be at the end of the stump, never make so
large
or healthy a seed shoot as those do the heads of which are sound; as a
rule, after pushing a feeble growth, they die.

For this reason I believe that the office of the head is similar to
and
as necessary as that of the leaves which unwrap from around the
blossom
buds of our fruit trees. It is true that the parallel cannot be fully
maintained, as the leaves which make up the cabbage head do not to an
equal degree unfold (particularly is this true of hard heads); yet
they
exhibit a vitality of their own, which is seen in the deeper green
color
the outer leaves soon attain, and the change from tenderness to
toughness in their structure: I think, therefore, that the degree of
failure in the parallel may be measured by the difference between a
higher and a lower form of organic life.

Some advocate the economy of cutting off a large portion of the heads
when cabbages are set out for seed to use as food for stock. There is
certainly a great temptation, standing amid acres of large, solid,
heads
in the early spring months, when green food of all kinds is scarce, to
cut and use such an immense amount of rich food, which, to the
inexperienced eye, appears to be utterly wasted if left to decay, dry,
and fall to the ground; but, for the reason given above, I have never
done so. It is possible that large heads may bear trimming to a degree
without injury to the seed crop; yet I should consider this an
experiment, and one to be tried with a good deal of caution.

SELECTING THE SOIL.

In some of the best cabbage-growing sections of the country, until

within a comparatively few years it was the very general belief that
cabbage would not do well on upland. Accordingly the cabbage patch
would
be found on the lowest tillage land of the farm. No doubt, the lowest
soil being the richer from a gradual accumulation of the wash from the
upland, when manure was but sparingly used, cabbage would thrive
better
there than elsewhere,--and not, as was generally held, because that
vegetable needed more moisture than any other crop. Cabbage can be
raised with success on any good corn land, provided such land is well
manured; and there is no more loss in seasons of drouth on such land
than there is in seasons of excessive moisture on the lower tillage
land
of the farm. I wish I could preach a very loud sermon to all my farmer
friends on the great value of liberal manuring to carry crops
successfully through the effects of a severe drouth. Crops on soil
precisely alike, with but a wall to separate them, will, in a very dry
season, present a striking difference,--the one being in fine vigor,
and
the other "suffering from drouth," as the owner will tell you; but, in
reality, from want of food.
The smaller varieties of cabbage will thrive well on either light or
strong soil, but the largest drumheads do best on strong soil. For the
_Brassica_ family, including cabbages, cauliflowers, turnips, etc.,
there is no soil so suitable as freshly turned sod, provided the
surface
is well fined by the harrow; it is well to have as stout a crop of
clover or grass, growing on this sod, when turned under, as possible,
and I incline to the belief that it would be a judicious investment to
start a thick growth of these by the application of guano to the
surface
sufficiently long before turning the sod to get an extra growth of the
clover or grass. If the soil be very sandy in character, I would
advise
that the variety planted be the Winnigstadt, which, in my experience,
is
unexcelled for making a hard head under almost any conditions, however
unpropitious. Should the soil be naturally very wet it should be
underdrained, or stump foot will be very likely to appear, which is
death to all success.

PREPARING THE SOIL.

Should the soil be a heavy clay, a deep fall ploughing is best, that
the
frosts of winter may disintegrate it; and should the plan be to raise
an
early crop, this end will be promoted by fall ploughing, on any soil,
as
the land will thereby be made drier in early spring. In New England
the
soil for cabbages should be ploughed as deep as the subsoil, and the
larger drumheads should be planted only on the deepest soil. If the
season should prove a favorable one, a good crop of cabbage may be
grown
on sod broken up immediately after a crop of hay has been taken from
it,
provided plenty of fine manure is harrowed in. One great risk here is
from the dry weather that usually prevails at that season, preventing
the prompt germination of the seed, or rooting of the plants. It is
prudent in such a case to have a good stock of plants, that such as
die
may be promptly replaced. It is wise to plant the seed for these a
week
earlier than the main crop, for when transplanted to fill the vacant
places it will take about a week for them to get well rooted.

The manure may be spread on the surface of either sod or stubble land
and ploughed under, or be spread on the surface after ploughing and
thoroughly worked into the soil by the wheel harrow or cultivator. On
ploughed sod I have found nothing so satisfactory as the class of
wheel
harrows, which not only cut the manure up fine and work it well under,
but by the same operation cut and pulverize the turf until the sod may
be left not over an inch in thickness. To do the work thus thoroughly
requires a yoke of oxen or a pair of stout horses. All large stones
and
large pieces of turf that are torn up and brought to the surface
should
be carted off before making the hills.

THE MANURE.

Any manure but hog manure for cabbage,--barn manure, rotten kelp,
night-soil, guano, fertilizers, wood ashes, fish, salt, glue waste,
hen
manure, slaughter-house manure. I have used all of these, and found
them all good when rightly applied. If pure hog manure is used it is
apt
to produce that corpulent enlargement of the roots known in different
localities as "stump foot," "underground head," "finger and thumb;"
but
I have found barn manure on which hogs have run, two hogs to each
animal, excellent. The cabbage is the rankest of feeders, and to
perfect
the larger sort a most liberal allowance of the richest composts is
required. To grow the smaller varieties either barn-yard manure,
guano,
fertilizers, or wood ashes, if the soil be in good condition, will
answer; though the richer and more abundant the manure the larger are
the cabbages, and the earlier the crop will mature.

To perfect the large varieties of drumhead,--by which I mean to make

them grow to the greatest size possible,--I want a strong compost of
barn-yard manure, with night-soil and muck or fish-waste, and, if
possible, rotten kelp. A compost into which night-soil enters as a
component is best made by first covering a plot of ground, of easy
access, with soil or muck that has been exposed to a winter's frost,
to
the depth of about eighteen inches, and raising around this a rim
about
three feet in height, and thickness. Into this the night-soil is
poured
from carts built for the purpose, until the receptacle is about
two-thirds full. Barn manure is now added, being dropped around and
covering the outer rim, and, if the supply is sufficient, on the top
of
the heap also, on which it can be carted after cold weather sets in.
Early in spring, the entire mass should be pitched over, thoroughly
broken up with the bar and pick where frozen, and the frozen masses
thrown on the surface. In pitching over the mass, work the rim in
towards the middle of the heap. After the frozen lumps have thawed,
give
the heap another pitching over, aiming to mix all the materials
thoroughly together, and make the entire mass as fine as possible. A
covering of sand, thrown over the heap, before the last pitching, will
help fine it.

To produce a good crop of cabbages, with a compost of this quality,

from
six to twelve cords will be required to the acre. If the land is in
good
heart, by previous high cultivation, or the soil is naturally very
strong, six cords will give a fair crop of the small varieties; while,
with the same conditions, from nine to twelve cords to the acre will
be
required to perfect the largest variety grown, the Marblehead Mammoth
Drumhead.

Of the other kinds of manure named above, I will treat farther under
the
head of:

HOW TO APPLY THE MANURE.

The manure is sometimes applied wholly in the hill, at other times

partly broadcast and partly in the hill. If the farmer desires to make
the utmost use of his manure for that season, it will be best to put
most of it into the hill, particularly if his supply runs rather
short;
but if he desires to leave his land in good condition for next year's
crop, he had better use part of it broadcast. My own practice is to
use
all my rich compost broadcast, and depend on guano, fertilizers, or
hen
manure in the hill. Let all guano, if at all lumpy, like the Peruvian,
be sifted, and let all the hard lumps be reduced by pounding, until
the
largest pieces shall not be larger than half a pea, before it is
brought upon the ground. My land being ready, the compost worked under
and the rows marked out, I select three trusty hands who can be relied
upon to follow faithfully my directions in applying so dangerous
manure
as guano is in careless or ignorant hands; one takes a bucket of it,
and, if for large cabbage, drops as much as he can readily close in
his
shut hand, where each hill is to be; if for small sorts, then about
half
that quantity, spreading it over a circle about a foot in diameter;
the
second man follows with a pronged hoe, or better yet, a six-tined
fork,
with which he works the guano well into the soil, first turning it
three
or four inches under the surface, and then stirring the soil _very
thoroughly_ with the hoe or fork. Unless the guano (and this is also
true of most fertilizers) is faithfully mixed up with the soil, the
seed
will not vegetate. Give the second man about an hour the start, and
then
let the third man follow with the seed. Of other fertilizers, I use
about half as much again as of guano to each hill, and of hen manure a
heaping handful, after it has been finely broken up, and, if moist,
slightly mixed with dry earth. When salt is used, it should not be
depended on exclusively, but be used in connection with other manures,
at the rate of from ten to fifteen bushels to the acre, applied
broadcast over the ground, or thoroughly mixed with the manure before
that is applied; if dissolved in the manure, better yet. Salt itself
is
not a manure. Its principal office is to change other materials into
plant food. Fish and glue waste are exceedingly powerful manures, very
rich in ammonia, and, if used the first season, they should be in
compost. It is best to handle fish waste, such as heads, entrails,
backbones, and liver waste, precisely like night soil. "Porgy cheese,"
or "chum," the refuse, after pressing out the oil from menhaden and
halibut heads, and sometimes sold extensively for manure, is best
prepared for use by composting it with muck or loam, layer with layer,
at the rate of a barrel to every foot and a half, cord measure, of
soil.
As soon as it shows some heat, turn it, and repeat the process, two or
three times, until it is well decomposed, when apply. Another
excellent
way to use fish waste is to compost it with barn manure, in the open
fields. It will be best to have six inches of soil under the heap, and
not layer the fish with the lower half of the manure, for it strikes
down. Glue waste is a very coarse, lumpy manure, and requires a great
deal of severe manipulation, if it is to be applied the first season.
A
better way is to compost it with soil, layer with layer, having each
layer about a foot in thickness, and so allow it to remain over until
the next season, before using. This will decompose most of the straw,
and break down the hard, tough lumps. In applying this to the crop,
most
of it had better be used broadcast, as it is apt, at best, to be
rather
too coarse and concentrated to be used liberally directly in the hill.
Slaughter-house manure should be treated much like glue manure.

Mr. Proctor, of Beverly, has raised cabbage successfully on strong

clay
soil, by spreading a compost of muck containing fish waste, in which
the
fish is well decomposed, at the rate of two tons of the fish to an
acre
of land, after plowing, and then, having made his furrows at the right
distance apart, harrowing the land thoroughly crossways with the
furrows. The result was, besides mixing the manure thoroughly with the
soil, to land an extra proportion of it in the furrows, which was
equivalent to manuring in the drill.

Cabbage can be raised on fertilizers alone. I have raised some crops

in
this way; but have been led to plow in from four to six cords of good
manure to the acre, and then use from five hundred to a thousand
pounds
of some good fertilizer in the hill. The reason I prefer to use a
portion of the cabbage food in the form of manure, is, that I have
noticed that when the attempt is made to raise the larger drumhead
varieties on fertilizers only, the cabbages, just as the heads are
well
formed, are apt to come nearly to a standstill. I explain this on the
supposition that they exhaust most of the fertilizer, or some one of
the
ingredients that enter into it, during the earlier stage of growth;
perhaps from the fact that the food is in so easily digestible
condition, they use an over share of it, and the fact that those fed
on
fertilizers only, tend to grow longer stumped than usual, appears to
give weight to this opinion. Though any good fertilizer is good for
cabbage, yet I prefer those compounded on the basis of an analysis of
the composition of the plants; they should contain the three
ingredients, nitrogen, potash, and phosphoric acid, in the proportion
of
six, seven, five, taking them in the order in which I have written
them.

MAKING THE HILLS AND PLANTING THE SEED.

The idea is quite prevalent that cabbages will not head up well except
the plants are started in beds, and then transplanted into the hills
where they are to mature. This is an error, so far as it applies to
the
Northern States,--the largest and most experienced cultivators of
cabbage in New England usually dropping the seed directly where the
plant is to stand, unless they are first started under glass, or the
piece of land to be planted cannot be prepared in season to enable the
farmer to put his seed directly in the hill and yet give the cabbage
time sufficient to mature. Where the climate is unpropitious, or the
quantity of manure applied is insufficient, it is possible that
transplanting may promote heading. The advantages of planting directly
in the hill, are a saving of time, avoiding the risks incidental to
transplanting, and having all the piece start alike; for, when
transplanted, many die and have to be replaced, while some hesitate
much
longer than others before starting, thus making a want of uniformity
in
the maturing of the crop. There is, also, this advantage, there being
several plants in each hill, the cut-worm has to depredate pretty
severely before he really injures the piece; again, should the seed
not
vegetate in any of the hills, every farmer will appreciate the
advantage
of having healthy plants growing so near at hand that they can be
transferred to the vacant spaces with their roots so undisturbed that
their growth is hardly checked. In addition to the labor of
transplanting saved by this plan, the great check that plants always
receive when so treated is prevented, and also the extra risks that
occur should a season of drouth follow. It is the belief of some
farmers, that plants growing where the seed was planted are less
liable
to be destroyed by the cut-worm than those that have been
transplanted.
When planning to raise late cabbage on upland, I sow a portion of the
seed on a moist spot, or, in case a portion of the land is moist, I
plant the hills on such land with an extra quantity of seed, that I
may
have enough plants for the whole piece, should the weather prove to be
too dry for the seed to vegetate on the dryer portions of it. It is
wise
to sow these extra plants about a week earlier, for they will be put
back about a week by transplanting them.

Some of our best farmers drill their seed in with a sowing machine,
such
as is used for onions, carrots, and other vegetable crops. This is a
very expeditious way, and has the advantage of leaving the plants in
rows instead of bunches, as in the hill system, and thus enables the
hoe
to do most of the work of thinning. It has also this advantage: each
plant being by itself can be left much longer before thinning, and yet
not grow long in the stump, thus making it available for
transplanting,
or for sale in the market, for a longer period.

The usual way of preparing the hills is to strike out furrows with a
small, one-horse plough, as far apart as the rows are to be. As it is
very important that the rows should be as straight as practicable, it
is
a good plan to run back once in each furrow, particularly on sod land
where the plough will be apt to catch in the turf and jump out of
line.
A manure team follows, containing the dressing for the hills, which
has
previously been pitched over and beaten up until all the ingredients
are
fine and well mixed. This team is so driven, if possible, as to avoid
running in the furrows. Two or three hands follow with forks or
shovels,
pitching the manure into the furrows at the distance apart that has
been
determined on for the hills. How far apart these are to be will depend
on the varieties, from eighteen inches to four feet. On land that has
been very highly manured for a series of years, cabbage can be planted
nearer than on land that has been under the plow but a few years. For
the distance apart for different varieties see farther on. The manure
is
levelled with hoes, a little soil is drawn over it, and a slight stamp
with the back of the hoe is given to level this soil, and, at the same
time, to mark the hill. The planter follows with seed in a tin box, or
any small vessel having a broad bottom, and taking a small pinch
between
the thumb and forefinger he gives a slight scratch with the remaining
fingers of the same hand, and dropping in about half a dozen seed
covers
them half an inch deep with a sweep of the hand, and packs the earth
by
a gentle pat with the open palm to keep the moisture in the ground and
thus promote the vegetation of the seed. With care a quarter of a
pound
of seed will plant an acre, when dropped directly in the hills; but
half
a pound is the common allowance, as there is usually some waste from
spilling, while most laborers plant with a free hand.

The soil over the hills being very light and porous, careless hands
are
apt to drop the seed too deep. Care should be taken not to drop the
seed
all in one spot, but to scatter them over a surface of two or three
inches square, that each plant may have room to develop without
crowding
its neighbors.

If the seed is planted in a line instead of in a mass the plants can

be
left longer before the final thinning without danger of growing tall
and
weak.
If the seed is to be drilled in, it will be necessary to scatter the
manure all along the furrows, then cover with a plough, roughly
leveling
with a rake.

Should the compost applied to the hills be very concentrated, it will

be apt to produce stump foot; it will, therefore, be safest in such
cases to hollow out the middle with the corner of the hoe, or draw the
hoe through and fill in with earth, that the roots of the young plants
may not come in direct contact with the compost as soon as they begin
to
push.

When guano or phosphates are used in the hills it will be well to mark
out the rows with a plough, and then, where each hill is to be, fill
in
the soil level to the surface with a hoe, before applying them. I
have,
in a previous paragraph, given full instructions how to apply these.
Hen
manure, if moist, should be broken up very fine, and be mixed with
some
dry earth to prevent it from again lumping together, and the mixture
applied in sufficient quantity to make an equivalent of a heaping
handful of pure hen manure to each hill. Any liquid manure is
excellent
for the cabbage crop; but it should be well diluted, or it will be
likely to produce stump foot.

Cabbage seed of almost all varieties are nearly round in form, but are
not so spherical as turnip seed. I note, however, that seed of the
Savoys are nearly oval. In color they are light brown when first
gathered, but gradually turn dark brown if not gathered too early. An
ounce contains nearly ten thousand seed, but should not be relied upon
for many over two thousand good plants, and these are available for
about as many hills only when raised in beds and transplanted; when
dropped directly in the hills it will take not far from eight ounces
of
the larger sorts to plant an acre, and of the smaller cabbage rather
more than this. Cabbage seed when well cured and kept in close bags
will
retain their vitality four or five years; old gardeners prefer seed of
all the cabbage family two or three years old.

When the plan is to raise the young plants in beds to be transplanted,

the ground selected for the beds should be of rich soil; this should
be
very thoroughly dug, and the surface worked and raked very fine, every
stone and lump of earth being removed. Now sprinkle the seed evenly
over
the bed and gently rake in just under the surface, compacting the soil
by pressure with a board. As soon as the young plants appear, sprinkle
them with air-slaked lime. Transplant when three or four inches high,
being very careful not to let the plants get tall and weak.

For late cabbage, in the latitude of Boston, to have cabbages ready

for
market about the first of November, the Marblehead Mammoth should be
planted the 20th of May, other late drumheads from June 1st to June
12th, provided the plants are not to be transplanted; otherwise a week
earlier. In those localities where the growing season is later, the
seed
should be planted proportionally later.

CARE OF THE YOUNG PLANTS.

In four or five days, if the weather is propitious, the young plants

will begin to break ground, presenting at the surface two leaves,
which
together make nearly a square, like the first leaves of turnips or
radishes. As soon as the third leaf is developed, go over the piece,
and
boldly thin out the plants. Wherever they are very thick, pull a mass
of
them with the fingers and thumb, being careful to fill up the hole
made
with fine earth. After the fourth leaf is developed, go over the piece
again and thin still more; you need specially to guard against a
slender, weak growth, which will happen when the plants are too
crowded. In thinning, leave the short-stumped plants, and leave them
as
far apart in the hill as possible, that they may not shade each other,
or so interfere in growing as to make long stumps. If there is any
market for young plants, thousands can be sold from an acre when the
seed are planted in the hill; but in doing this bear in mind that your
principal object is to raise cabbages, and to succeed in this the
young
plants must on no account be allowed to stand so long together in the
hills as to crowd each other, making a tall, weak, slender
growth,--getting "long-legged," as the farmers call it.

If the manure in any of the hills is too strong, the fact will be
known
by its effects on the plants, which will be checked in their growth,
and
be of a darker green color than the healthy plants. Gently pull away
the
earth from the roots of such with the fingers, and draw around fresh
earth; or, what is as well or better, transplant a healthy plant just
on
the edge of the hill. When the plants are finger high they are of a
good
size to transplant into such hills as have missed, or to market. When
transplanting, select a rainy day, if possible, and do not begin until
sufficient rain has fallen to moisten the earth around the roots,
which
will make it more likely to adhere to them when taken up. Take up the
young plants by running the finger or a trowel under them; put these
into a flat basket or box, and in transplanting set them to the same
depth they originally grew, pressing the earth a little about the
roots.

If it is necessary to do the transplanting in a dry spell, as usually

happens, select the latter part of the afternoon, if practicable, and,
making holes with a dibble, or any pointed stick an inch and a half in
diameter, fill these holes, a score or more at a time, with water; and
as soon as the water is about soaked away, beginning with the hole
first
filled, set out your plants. The evaporation of the moisture below the
roots will keep them moist until they get a hold. Cabbage plants have
great tenacity of life, and will rally and grow when they appear to be
dead; the leaves may all die, and dry up like hay, but if the stump
stands erect and the unfolded leaf at the top of the stump is alive,
the
plant will usually survive. When the plants are quite large, they may
be
used successfully by cutting or breaking off the larger leaves. Some
advocate wilting the plants before transplanting, piling them in the
cellar a few days before setting them out, to toughen them and get a
new
setting of fine roots; others challenge their vigor by making it a
rule
to do all transplanting under the heat of mid-day. I think there is
not
much of reason in this latter course. The young plants can be set out
almost as fast as a man can walk, by holding the roots close to one
side
of the hole made by the dibble, and at the same moment pressing earth
against them with the other hand.

PROTECTING THE PLANTS FROM THEIR ENEMIES.

As soon as they have broken through the soil, an enemy awaits them in
the small black insect commonly known as the cabbage or turnip fly,
beetle, or flea. This insect, though so small as to appear to the eye
as
a black dot, is very voracious and surprisingly active. He apparently
feeds on the juice of the young plant, perforating it with small holes
the size of a pin point. He is so active when disturbed that his
motions cannot be followed by the eye, and his sense of danger is so
keen that only by cautiously approaching the plant can he be seen at
all. The delay of a single day in protecting the young plants from his
ravages will sometimes be the destruction of nearly the entire piece.
Wood ashes and air-slaked lime, sprinkled upon the plants while the
leaves are moist from either rain or dew, afford almost complete
protection. The lime or ashes should be applied as soon as the plant
can
be seen, for then, when they are in their tenderest condition, the fly
is most destructive. I am not certain that the alkaline nature of
these
affords the protection, or whether a mere covering by common dust
might
not answer equally well. Should the covering be washed off by rain,
apply it anew immediately after the rain has ceased, and so continue
to
keep the young plants covered until the third or fourth leaves are
developed when they will have become too tough to serve as food for
this
insect enemy.

A new enemy much dreaded by all cabbage raisers will begin to make his
appearance about the time the flea disappears, known as the cut-worm.
This worm is of a dusky brown color, with a dark colored head, and
varies in size up to about two inches in length. He burrows in the
ground just below the surface, is slow of motion, and does his
mischievous work at night, gnawing off the young plants close at the
surface of the ground. This enemy is hard to battle with. If the patch
be small, these worms can be scratched out of their hiding places by
pulling the earth carefully away the following morning for a few
inches
around the stump of the plant destroyed, when the rascals will usually
be found half coiled together. Dropping a little wood ashes around the
plants close to the stumps is one of the best of remedies; its
alkaline
properties burning his nose I presume. A tunnel of paper put around
the
stump but not touching it, and sunk just below the surface, is
recommended as efficacious; and from the habits of the worm I should
think it would prove so. Perpendicular holes four inches deep and an
inch in diameter is said to catch and hold them as effectively as do
the
pit falls of Africa the wild animals. Late planted cabbage will suffer
little or none from this pest, as he disappears about the middle of
June. Some seasons they are remarkably numerous, making it necessary
to
replant portions of the cabbage patch several times over. I have heard
of as many as twenty being dug at different times the same season out
of
one cabbage hill. The farmer who tilled that patch earned his dollars.
When the cabbage has a stump the size of a pipe stem it is beyond the
destructive ravages of the cut-worm, and should it escape stump foot
has
usually quite a period of growth free from the attacks of enemies.
Should the season prove unpropitious and the plant be checked in its
growth, it will be apt to become "lousy," as the farmers term it,
referring to its condition when attacked by a small green insect known
as aphidae, which preys upon it in myriads; when this is the case the
leaves lose their bright green, turn of a bluish cast, the leaf stocks
lose somewhat of their supporting powers, the leaves curl up into
irregular shapes, and the lower layer turns black and drops off, while
the ground under the plant appears covered with the casts or bodies of
the insects as with a white powder. When in this condition the plants
are in a very bad way.

Considering the circumstances under which this insect appears, usually

in a very dry season, I hold that it is rather the product than the
cause of disease, as with the bark louse on our apple-trees; as a
remedy
I advocate sprinkling the plants with air-slaked lime, watering, if
possible, and a frequent and thorough stirring of the soil with the
cultivator and hoe. The better the opportunities the cabbage have to
develop themselves through high manuring, sufficient moisture, good
drainage, and thorough cultivation, the less liable they are to be
"lousy." As the season advances there will sometimes be found patches
eaten out of the leaves, leaving nothing but the skeleton of leaf
veins;
an examination will show a band of caterpillars of a light green color
at work, who feed in a compact mass, oftentimes a square, with as much
regularity as though under the best of military discipline. The
readiest
way to dispose of them is to break off the leaf and crush them under
foot. The common large red caterpillar occasionally preys on the
plants,
eating large holes in the leaves, especially about the head. When the
cabbage plot is bordered by grass land, in seasons when grasshoppers
are
plenty, they will frequently destroy the outer rows, puncturing the
leaves with small holes, and feeding on them until little besides
their
skeletons remain. In isolated locations rabbits and other vegetable
feeders sometimes commit depredations. The snare and the shot-gun are
the remedy for these.

Other insects that prey upon the cabbage tribe, in their caterpillar
state, are the cabbage moth, white-line, brown-eyed moth, large white
garden butterfly, white and green veined butterfly. All of these
produce
caterpillars, which can be destroyed either by application of
air-slaked lime, or by removing the leaves infested and crushing the
intruders under foot. The cabbage-fly, father-long-legs, the
millipedes,
the blue cabbage-fly, brassy cabbage-flea, and two or three other
insect
enemies are mentioned by McIntosh as infesting the cabbage fields of
England; also three species of fungi known as white rust, mildew, and
_cylindrosporium concentricum_; these last are destroyed by the
sprinkling of air-slaked lime on the leaves. In this country, along
the
sea coast of the northern section, in open-ground cultivation, there
is
comparatively but little injury done by these marauders, which are the
cause of so much annoyance and loss to our English cousins.

THE GREEN WORM.

A new and troublesome enemy to the cabbage tribe which has made its
appearance within a few years, and spread rapidly over a large section
of the country, is a green worm, _Anthomia brassicae_. This pest
infests
the cabbage tribe at all stages of its growth; it is believed to have
been introduced into this country from Europe, by the way of Canada,
where it was probably brought in a lot of cabbage. It is the
caterpillar
of a white butterfly with black spots on its wings. In Europe, this
butterfly is preyed on by two or more parasites, which keep it
somewhat
in check; but its remarkably rapid increase in this country, causing a
wail of lamentation to rise in a single season from the cabbage
growers
over areas of tens of thousands of square miles, proved that when it
first appeared it had reached this country without its attendant
parasites.

Besides this green worm, there are found in Europe four varieties of
caterpillar variously marked, the caterpillars from all of which make
great havoc among the cabbage tribe.

The most effective destroyer of this, and about every other insect
pest,
is what is known as the "Kerosene Emulsion." This is made by churning
common kerosene with milk or soap until it is diffused through the
liquid.

Take one quart of kerosene oil and pour it into a pint of hot water in
which an ounce of common soap has been dissolved; churn this briskly
while hot (a force pump is excellent for this), and, when well mixed,
which will be in a few minutes, it will be of a creamy consistency;
mix
one quart to ten or twelve of cold water, and spray or sprinkle it
over
the plants with a force-pump syringe or a whisk broom.

Another remedy is pyrethrum. Use that which is fresh; either blowing

it
on in a dry state with a bellows, wherever the worm appears, or using
it
diluted, at the rate of a tablespoonful to two gallons of water;
applying as with the kerosene emulsion. Mr. A. S. Fuller, who is good
authority on garden matters, succeeds by applying tar-water. Place a
couple of quarts of coal tar in a barrel and fill with water; let it
stand forty-eight hours, then dip off, and apply with a watering-pot,
or
syringe.

Chickens allowed to run freely among the growing plants, the hen being
confined in a movable coop, if once attracted to them will fatten on
them. This remedy might answer very well for small plots. Large areas
in
cabbage, in proportion to their size are, as a rule, far less injured
by
insect enemies than small patches. The worm is of late years less
troublesome in the North than formerly.

CLUB OR STUMP FOOT AND MAGGOT.

The great dread of every cabbage grower is a disease of the branching

roots, producing a bunchy, gland-like enlargement, known in different
localities under the name of club foot, stump foot, underground head,
finger and thumb. The result is a check in the ascent of the sap,
which
causes a defective vitality. There are two theories as to the origin
of
club foot; one that it is a disease caused by poor soil, bad
cultivation, and unsuitable manures; the other that the injury is done
by an insect enemy, _Curculio contractus_. It is held by some that the
maggots at the root are the progeny of the cabbage flea. This I doubt.
This insect, "piercing the skin of the root, deposits its eggs in the
holes, lives during a time on the sap of the plant, and then escapes
and
buries itself for a time in the soil."

If the wart, or gland-like excrescence, is seen while transplanting,

throw all such plants away, unless your supply is short; in such case,
carefully trim off all the diseased portions with a sharp knife. If
the
disease is in the growing crop, it will be made evident by the
drooping
of the leaves under the mid-day sun, leaves of diseased plants
drooping
more than those of healthy ones, while they will usually have a bluer
cast. Should this disease show itself, set the cultivator going
immediately, and follow with the hoe, drawing up fresh earth around
the
plants, which will encourage them to form new fibrous roots; should
they
do this freely, the plants will be saved, as the attacks of the insect
are usually confined to the coarse, branching roots. Should the
disease
prevail as late as when the plants have reached half their growth, the
chances are decidedly against raising a paying crop.

When the land planted is too wet, or the manure in the hill is too
strong, this dreaded disease is liable to be found on any soil; but it
is most likely to manifest itself on soils that have been previously
cropped with cabbage, turnip, or some other member of the Brassica
family.

Farmers find that, as a rule, _it is not safe to follow cabbage, ruta
baga, or any of the Brassica family, with cabbage, unless three or
four
years have intervened between the crops_; and I have known an instance
in growing the Marblehead Mammoth, where, though five years had
intervened, that portion of the piece occupied by the previous crop
could be distinctly marked off by the presence of club-foot.

Singular as it may appear, old gardens are an exception to this rule.

While it is next to impossible to raise, in old gardens, a fair
turnip,
free from club-foot, cabbages may be raised year after year on the
same
soil with impunity, or, at least, with but trifling injury from that
disease. This seems to prove, contrary to English authority, that
club-foot in the turnip tribe is the effect of a different cause from
the same disease in the cabbage family.

There is another position taken by Stephens in his "Book of the Farm,"

which facts seem to disprove. He puts forth the theory that "all such
diseases arise from poverty of the soil, either from want of manure
when
the soil is naturally poor, or rendered effete by over-cropping."
There
is a farm on a neck of land belonging to this town (Marblehead,
Mass.),
which has peculiar advantages for collecting sea kelp and sea moss,
and
these manures are there used most liberally, particularly in the
cultivation of cabbage, from eight to twelve cords of rotten kelp,
which
is stronger than barn manure, and more suitable food for cabbage,
being
used to the acre. A few years ago, on a change of tenants, the new
incumbent heavily manured a piece for cabbage, and planted it; but, as
the season advanced, stump-foot developed in every cabbage on one side
of the piece, while all the remainder were healthy. Upon inquiry, he
learned that, by mistake, he had overlapped the cabbage plot of last
season just so far as the stump-foot extended. In this instance, it
could not have been that the cabbage suffered for want of food; for,
not
only was the piece heavily manured that year and the year previous,
but
it had been liberally manured through a series of years, and, to a
large
extent, with the manure which, of all others, the cabbage tribe
delight
in, rotten kelp and sea mosses. I have known other instances where
soil,
naturally quite strong, and kept heavily manured for a series of
years,
has shown stump-foot when cabbage were planted, with intervals of two
and three years between. My theory is, that the _mere presence of the
cabbage_ causes stump-foot on succeeding crops grown on the same soil.
This is proved by the fact that where a piece of land in grass, close
adjoining a piece of growing cabbage, had been used for stripping them
for market, when this was broken up the next season and planted to
cabbage, stump-foot appeared only on that portion where the waste
leaves
fell the year previous. I have another instance to the same point,
told
me by an observing farmer, that, on a piece of sod land, on which he
ran
his cultivator the year previous, when turning his horse every time he
had cultivated a row, he had stump-footed cabbage the next season just
as far as that cultivator went, dragging, of course, a few leaves and
a
little earth from the cabbage piece with it. Still, though the mere
presence of cabbage causes stump-foot, it is a fact, that, under
certain
conditions, cabbage can be grown on the same piece of land year after
year successfully, with but very little trouble from stump-foot. In
this
town (Marblehead), though, as I have stated, we cannot, on our farms,
follow cabbage with cabbage, even with the highest of manuring and
cultivation, yet in the gardens of the town, on the same kind of soil
(and our soil is green stone and syenite, not naturally containing
lime), there are instances where cabbage has been successfully
followed
by cabbage, on the same spot, for a quarter of a century and more. In
the garden of an aged citizen of this town, cabbages have been raised
_on the same spot of land_ for over half a century.

The cause of stump foot cannot, therefore, be found in the poverty of

the soil, either from want of manure or its having been rendered
effete
from over cropping. It is evident that by long cultivation soils
gradually have diffused through them something that proves inimical to
the disease that produces stump foot. I will suggest as probable that
the protection is afforded by the presence of some alkali that old
gardens are constantly acquiring through house waste which is always
finding its way there, particularly the slops from the sink, which
abound in potash. This is rendered further probable from the fact
given
by Mr. Peter Henderson, that, on soils in this vicinity, naturally
abounding in lime, cabbage can be raised year following year with
almost
immunity from stump foot. He ascribes this to the effects of lime in
the soil derived from marine shells, and recommends that lime from
bones
be used to secure the same protection; but the lime that enters into
the
composition of marine shells is for the most part carbonate of lime,
whereas the greater portion of that which enters into the composition
of
bones is phosphate of lime. Common air-slaked lime is almost pure
carbonate of lime, and hence comes nearer to the composition of marine
shells than lime from bones, and, being much cheaper, would appear to
be
preferable.

An able farmer told me that by using wood ashes liberally he could

follow with cabbage the next season on the same piece. One experiment
of
my own in this direction did not prove successful, where ashes at the
rate of two hundred bushels to the acre were used; and I have an
impression that I have read of a like want of success after quite
liberal applications of lime. In a more recent experiment, on a
gravelly
loam on one of my seed farms in Middleton, Mass., where two hundred
bushels of unleached ashes were used per acre, three-fourths
broadcast,
I have had complete success, raising as good a crop as I ever grew the
second year on the same land, without a single stump foot on half an
acre. Still, it remains evident, I think, that nature prevents stump
foot by the diffusing of alkalies through the soil, and I mistrust
that
the reason why we sometimes fail with the same remedies is that we
have
them mixed, rather than intimately combined, with the particles of
soil.

The roots of young plants are sometimes attacked by a maggot, though

there is no club root present. A remedy for this is said to be in the
burying of a small piece of bi-sulphide of carbon within a few inches
of the diseased plant. I have never tried it, but know that there is
no
better insecticide.

As I have stated under another head, an attack of club foot is almost

sure to follow the use of pure hog manure, whether it be used
broadcast
or in the hill. About ten years ago I ventured to use hog manure
nearly
pure, spread broadcast and ploughed in. Stump foot soon showed itself.
I
cultivated and hoed the cabbage thoroughly; then, as they still
appeared
sickly, I had the entire piece thoroughly dug over with a six-tined
fork, pushing it as deep or deeper into the soil than the plough had
gone, to bring up the manure to the surface; but all was of no use; I
lost the entire crop. Yet, on another occasion, stable manure on which
hogs had been kept at the rate of two hogs to each animal, gave me one
of the finest lots of cabbage I ever raised.

CARE OF THE GROWING CROP.

As soon as the young plants are large enough to be seen with the naked
eye, in with the cultivator and go and return once in each row, being
careful not to have any lumps of earth cover the plants. Follow the
cultivator immediately with the hoe, loosening the soil about the
hills.
The old rule with farmers is to cultivate and hoe cabbage three times
during their growth, and it is a rule that works very well where the
crop is in good growing condition; but if the manure is deficient, the
soil bakes, or the plants show signs of disease, then cultivate and
hoe
once or twice extra. "Hoe cabbage when wet," is another farmer's
axiom.
In a small garden patch the soil may be stirred among the plants as
often as may be convenient: it can do no harm; cabbages relish
tending,
though it is not necessary to do this every day, as one enthusiastic
cultivator evidently thought, who declared that, by hoeing his
cabbages
every morning, he had succeeded in raising capital heads.

If a season of drouth occurs when the cabbages have begun to head, the
heads will harden prematurely; and then should a heavy rain fall, they
will start to make a new growth, and the consequence will be many of
them will split. Split or bursted cabbage are a source of great loss
to
the farmer, and this should be carefully guarded against by going
frequently over the piece when the heads are setting, and starting
every
cabbage that appears to be about mature. A stout-pronged potato hoe
applied just under the leaves, and a pull given sufficient to start
the
roots on one side, will accomplish what is needed. If cabbage that
have
once been started seem still inclined to burst, start the roots on the
other side. Instead of a hoe they may be pushed over with the foot, or
with the hand. Frequently, heads that are thus started will grow to
double the size they had attained when about to burst. There is a
marked
difference in this habit in different varieties of cabbage. I find
that
the Hard-heading is less inclined to burst its head than any of the
kinds I raise.

MARKETING THE CROP.

When preparing for market cabbages that have been kept over winter,
particularly if they are marketed late in the season, the edges of the
leaves of some of the heads will be found to be more or less decayed;
do
not strip such leaves off, but with a sharp knife cut clean off the
decayed edges. The earlier the variety the sooner it needs to be
marketed, for, as a rule, cabbages push their shoots in the spring in
the order of their earliness. If they have not been sufficiently
protected from the cold, the stumps will often rot off close to the
head, and sometimes the rot will include the part of the stump that
enters the head. If the watery-looking portion can be cut clean out,
the
head is salable; otherwise it will be apt to have an unpleasant flavor
when cooked. As a rule, cabbages for marketing should be trimmed into
as
compact a form as possible; the heads should be cut off close to the
stump, leaving two or three spare leaves to protect them. They may be
brought out of the piece in bushel baskets, and be piled on the wagon
as
high as a hay stack, being kept in place by a stout canvas sheet tied
closely down. In the markets of Boston, in the fall of the year, they
are usually sold at a price agreed upon by the hundred head; this will
vary not only with the size and quality of the cabbage, but with the
season, the crop, and the quality in market on that particular day.
Within a few years I have known the range of price for the Stone Mason
or Fottler cabbage, equal in size and quality, to be from $3 to $17
per
hundred; for the Marblehead Mammoth from $6 to $25 per hundred.
Cabbages
brought to market in the spring are usually sold by weight or by the
barrel, at from $1 to $4 per hundred pounds.

The earliest cabbages carried to market sometimes bring extraordinary

prices; and this has created a keen competition among market
gardeners,
each striving to produce the earliest, a difference of a week in
marketing oftentimes making a difference of one half in the profits of
the crop. Capt. Wyman, who controlled the Early Wyman cabbage for
several years, sold some seasons thirty thousand heads if my memory
serves me, at pretty much his own price. As a rule, it is the very
early
and the very late cabbages that sell most profitably. Should the
market
for very late cabbages prove a poor one, the farmer is not compelled
to
sell them, no matter at what sacrifice, as would be the case a month
earlier; he can pit them, and so keep them over to the early spring
market which is almost always a profitable one. In marketing in spring
it should be the aim to make sale before the crops of spring greens
become plenty, as these replace the cabbage on many tables. By
starting
cabbage in hot beds a crop of celery or squashes may follow them the
same season.

KEEPING CABBAGES THROUGH THE WINTER.

In the comparatively mild climate of England, where there are but few
days in the winter months that the ground remains frozen to any depth,
the hardy cabbage grows all seasons of the year, and turnips left
during
winter standing in the ground are fed to sheep by yarding them over
the
different portions of the field. With the same impunity, in the
southern
portion of our own country, the cabbages are left unprotected during
the
winter months; and, in the warmer portions of the South they are
principally a winter crop. As we advance farther North, we find that
the
degree of protection needed is afforded by running the plough along
each
side of the rows, turning the earth against them, and dropping a
little
litter on top of the heads. As we advance still farther northward, we
find sufficient protection given by but little more than a rough roof
of
boards thrown over the heads, after removing the cabbages to a
sheltered spot and setting them in the ground as near together as they
will stand without being in contact, with the tops of the heads just
level with the surface.

In the latitude of central New England, cabbages are not secure from
injury from frost with less than a foot of earth thrown over the
heads.
In mild winters a covering of half that depth will be sufficient; but
as
we have no prophets to foretell our mild winters, a foot of earth is
safer than six inches. Where eel-grass can be procured along the sea
coast, or there is straw or coarse hay to spare, the better plan is to
cover with about six inches of earth, and when this is frozen
sufficiently hard to bear a man's weight (which is usually about
Thanksgiving time), to scatter over it the eel-grass, forest leaves,
straw, or coarse hay, to the depth of another six inches. Eel-grass,
which grows on the sandy flats under the ocean along the coast, is
preferred to any other covering as it lays light and keeps in dead air
which is a non-conductor of heat. Forest leaves are next in value; but
snow and water are apt to get among these and freezing solid destroy
most of their protecting value. When I use forest leaves, I cover them
with coarse hay, and add branches of trees to prevent its being blown
away. In keeping cabbages through the winter, three general facts
should
be borne in mind, viz.: that repeated freezing and thawing will cause
them to rot; that excessive moisture or warmth will also cause rot;
while a dry air, such as is found in most cellars, will abstract
moisture from the leaves, injure the flavor of the cabbage, and cause
some of the heads to wilt, and the harder heads to waste. In the
Middle
States we have mostly to fear the wet of winter, and the plan for
keeping for that section should, therefore, have particularly in view
protection from moisture, while in the Northern States we have to fear
the cold of winter, and, consequently, our plan must there have
specially in view protection from cold.

When storing for winter, select a dry day, if possible, sufficiently

long after rainy weather to have the leaves free of water,--otherwise
they will spout it on to you, and make you the wettest and muddiest
scarecrow ever seen off a farm,--then strip all the outer leaves from
the head but the two last rows, which are needed to protect it. This
may
be readily done by drawing in these two rows toward the head with the
left hand, while a blow is struck against the remaining leaves with
the
fist of the right hand. Next pull up the cabbages, which, if they are
of
the largest varieties, may be expeditiously done by a potato hoe. If
they are not intended for seed purposes, stand the heads down and
stumps
up until the earth on the roots is somewhat dry, when it can be mostly
removed by sharp blows against the stump given with a stout stick. In
loading do not bruise the heads. Select the place for keeping them in
a
dry, level location, and, if in the North, a southern exposure, where
no
water can stand and there can be no wash. To make the pit, run the
plough along from two to four furrows, and throw out the soil with the
shovel to the requisite depth, which may be from six to ten inches;
now,
if the design is to roof over the pit, the cabbages may be put in as
thickly as they will stand; if the heads are solid they may be either
head up or stump up, and two layers deep; but if the heads are soft,
then heads up and one deep, and not crowded very close, that they may
have room to make heads during the winter. Having excavated an area
twelve by six feet, set a couple of posts in the ground midway at each
end, projecting about five feet above the surface; connect the two by
a
joist secured firmly to the top of each, and against this, extending
to
the ground just outside the pit, lay slabs, boards or poles, and cover
the roof that will be thus formed with six inches of straw or old hay,
and, if in the North, throw six or eight inches of earth over this.
Leave one end open for entrance and to air the pit, closing the other
end with straw or hay. In the North close both ends, opening one of
them
occasionally in mild weather.

When cabbages are pitted on a large scale this system of roofing is

too
costly and too cumbersome. A few thousand may be kept in a cool root
cellar, by putting one layer heads down, and standing another layer
heads up between these. Within a few years farmers in the vicinity of
Lowell, Mass., have preserved their cabbages over winter, on a large
scale, by a new method, with results that have been very satisfactory.
They cut off that portion of the stump which contains the root; strip
off most of the outer leaves, and then pile the cabbages in piles, six
or eight feet high, in double rows, with boards to keep them apart, in
cool cellars, which are built half out of ground. The temperature of
these, by the judicious opening and closing of windows, is kept as
nearly as possibly at the freezing point. The common practice in the
North, when many thousands are to be stored for winter and spring
sales,
is to select a southern exposure having the protection of a fence or
wall, if practicable, and, turning furrows with the plough, throw out
the earth with shovels, to the depth of about six inches; the
cabbages,
stripped as before described, are then stored closely together, and
straw or coarse hay is thrown over them to the depth of a foot or
eighteen inches. Protected thus they are accessible for market at any
time during the winter. If the design is to keep them over till
spring,
the covering may be first six inches of earth, to be followed, as cold
increases, with six inches of straw, litter, or eel-grass. This latter
is my own practice, with the addition of leaving a ridge of earth
between every three or four rows, to act as a support and keep the
cabbages from falling over. I am, also, careful to bring the cabbages
to
the pit as soon as pulled, with the earth among the roots as little
disturbed as possible; and, should the roots appear to be dry, to
throw
a little earth over them after the cabbages are set in the trench. The
few loose leaves remaining will prevent the earth from sifting down
between the heads, and the air chambers thus made answer a capital
purpose in keeping out the cold, as air is one of the best
non-conductors of heat. It is said that muck-soil, when well drained,
is
an excellent one to bury cabbage in, as its antiseptic properties
preserve them from decay. If the object is to preserve the cabbage for
market purposes only, the heads may be buried in the same position in
which they grew, or they may be inverted, the stump having no value in
itself; but if for seed purposes, they must be buried head up, as,
whatever injures the stump, spoils the whole cabbage for that object.
I
store between ten and fifty thousand heads annually to raise seed
from,
and carry them through till planting time with a degree of success
varying from a loss, for seed purposes, of from one-half to thirty-
three
per cent. of the number buried; but, if handled early in spring, many
that would be worthless for seed purposes, could be profitably
marketed.
A few years since, I buried a lot with a depth varying from one to
four
feet, and found, on uncovering them in the spring, that all had kept,
and apparently equally well. In the winter of 1868, excessively cold
weather came very early and unexpectedly, before my cabbage plot had
received its full covering of litter. The consequence was, the frost
penetrated so deep that it froze through the heads into the stumps,
and,
when spring came, a large portion of them came out spoiled for seed
purposes, though most of them sold readily in the market. A cabbage is
rendered worthless for seed when the frost strikes through the stump
where it joins the head; and though, to the unpractised eye, all may
appear right, yet, if the heart of the stump has a water-soaked
appearance on being cut into, it will almost uniformly decay just
below
the head in the course of a few weeks after having been planted out.
If
there is a probability that the stumps have been frozen through,
examine
the plot early, and, if it proves so, sell the cabbages for eating
purposes, no matter how sound and handsome the heads look; if you
delay
until time for planting out the cabbage for seed, meanwhile much waste
will occur. I once lost heavily in Marblehead Mammoth cabbage by
having
them buried on a hill-side with a gentle slope. In the course of the
winter they fell over on their sides, which let down the soil from
above, and, closing the air-chambers between them, brought the huge
heads into a mass, and the result was, a large proportion of them
rotted
badly. At another time, I lost a whole plot by burying them in soil
between ledges of rock, which kept the ground very wet when spring
opened; the consequence was, every cabbage rotted. If the heads are
frozen more than two or three leaves deep before they are pitted they
will not come out so handsome in the spring; but cabbages are very
hardy, and they readily rally from a little freezing, either in the
open
ground or after they are buried, though it is best, when they are
frozen
in the open ground, to let them remain there until the frost comes out
before removing them, if it can be done without too much risk of
freezing still deeper, as they handle better then, for, being tougher,
the leaves are not so easily broken. If the soil is frozen to any
depth
before the cabbages are removed, the roots will be likely to be
injured
in the pulling, a matter of no consequence if the cabbages are
intended
for market, but of some importance if they are for seed raising. Large
cabbages are more easily pulled by giving them a little twist; if for
seed purposes, this should be avoided, as it injures the stump. A
small
lot, that are to be used within a month, can be kept hung up by the
stump in the cellar of a dwelling-house; they will keep in this way
until spring; but the outer leaves will dry and turn yellow, the heads
shrink some in size, and be apt to lose in quality. Some practise
putting clean chopped straw in the bottom of a box or barrel, wetting
it, and covering with heads trimmed ready for cooking, adding again
wet
straw and a layer of heads, so alternating until the barrel or box is
filled, after which it is headed up and kept in a cool place, at, or a
little below, the freezing point. No doubt this is an excellent way to
preserve a small lot, as it has the two essentials to success, keeping
them cool and moist.

Instead of burying them in an upright position, after a deep furrow

has
been made the cabbages are sometimes laid on their sides two deep,
with
their roots at the bottom of the furrow, and covered with earth in
this
position. Where the winter climate is so mild that a shallow covering
will be sufficient protection, this method saves much labor.

HAVING CABBAGE MAKE HEADS IN WINTER.

When a piece of drumhead has been planted very late (sometimes they
are
planted on ground broken up after a crop of hay has been taken from it
the same season), there will be a per cent. of the plants when the
growing season is over that have not headed. With care almost all of
these can be made to head during the winter. A few years ago I
selected
my seed heads from a large piece and then sold the first "pick" of
what
remained at ten cents a head, the second at eight cents, and so down
until all were taken for which purchasers were willing to give one
cent
each. Of course, after such a thorough selling out as this, there was
not much in the shape of a head left. I now had what remained pulled
up
and carted away, doubtful whether to feed them to the cows or to set
them out to head up during winter. As they were very healthy plants in
the full vigor of growth, having rudimentary heads just gathering in,
I
determined to set them out. I had a pit dug deep enough to bring the
tops of the heads, when the plants were stood upright as they grew,
just
above the surface of the ground; I then stood the cabbages in without
breaking off any of the leaves, keeping the roots well covered with
earth, having the plants far enough apart not to crowd each other very
much, though so near as to press somewhat together the two outer
circles of leaves. They were allowed to remain in this condition until
it was cold enough to freeze the ground an inch in thickness, when a
covering of coarse hay was thrown over them a couple of inches thick,
and, as the cold increased in intensity, this covering was increased
to
ten or twelve inches in thickness, the additions being made at two or
three intervals. In the spring I uncovered the lot, and found that
nearly every plant had headed up. I sold the heads for four cents a
pound; and these refuse cabbages averaged me about ten cents a head,
which was the price my best heads brought me in the fall. I have seen
thousands of cabbages in one lot, the refuse of several acres that had
been planted on sod land broken up the same season a crop of hay had
been taken from it, made to head by this course, and sold in the
spring
for $1.30 per barrel. When there is a large lot of such cabbages the
most economical way to plant them will be in furrows made by the
plough.
Most of the bedding used in covering them, if it be as coarse as it
ought to be to admit as much air as possible while it should not mat
down on the cabbages, will, with care in drying, be again available
for
covering another season, or remain suitable for bedding purposes.
These
"winter-headed" cabbages, as they are called in the market, are not so
solid and have more shrinkage to them than those headed in the open
ground; hence they will not bear transportation as well, neither will
they keep as long when exposed to the air. The effect of wintering
cabbage by burying in the soil is to make them exceedingly tender for
table use.

VARIETIES OF CABBAGE.

If a piece of land is planted with seed grown from two heads of

cabbage
the product will bear a striking resemblance to the two parent
cabbages,
with a third variety which will combine the characteristics of these
two, yet the resemblance will be somewhat modified at times by a
little
more manure, a little higher culture, a little better location, and
the
addition of an individuality that particular vegetables occasionally
take upon themselves which we designate by the word "sport." The
"sports" when they occur are fixed and perpetuated with remarkable
readiness in the cabbage family, as is proved by a great number of
varieties in cultivation, which are the numerous progeny of one
ancestor. The catalogues of the English and French seedsmen contain
long
lists of varieties, many of which (and this is especially true of the
early kinds) are either the same variety under a different name or are
different "strains" of the same variety produced by the careful
selections of prominent market gardeners through a series of years.
Every season I experiment with foreign and American varieties of
cabbage
to learn the characteristics of the different kinds, their comparative
earliness, size, shape, and hardness of head, length of stump, and
such
other facts as would prove of value to market gardeners. There is one
fact that every careful experimenter soon learns, that one season will
not teach all that can be known relative to a variety, and that a
number
of specimens of each kind must be raised to enable one to make a fair
comparison. It is amusing to read the dicta which appear in the
agricultural press from those who have made but a single experiment
with
some vegetable; they proclaim more after a single trial than a
cautious
experimenter would dare to declare after years spent in careful
observation. The year 1869 I raised over sixty varieties of cabbage,
importing nearly complete suites of those advertised by the leading
English and French seed houses, and collecting the principal kinds
raised in this country. In the year 1888, I grew eighty-five different
varieties and strains of cabbages and cauliflowers. I do not propose
describing all these in this treatise or their comparative merits; of
some of them I have yet something to learn, but I will endeavor to
introduce with my description such notes as I think will prove of
value
to my fellow farmers and market gardeners.

I will here say in general of the class of early cabbages, that most
of
them have elongated heads between ovoid and conical in form. They
appear
to lack in this country the sweetness and tenderness that characterize
some varieties of our drumhead, and, consequently, in the North when
the
drumhead enters the market there is but a limited call for them.

It may be well here to note a fundamental distinction between the

drumhead cabbage of England and those of this country. In England the
drumhead class are almost wholly raised to feed to stock. I venture
the
conjecture that owing in part, or principally, to the fact European
gardeners have never had the motive, and, consequently, have never
developed the full capacity of the drumhead as exampled by the fine
varieties raised in this country. The securing of sorts reliable for
heading being with them a matter of secondary consideration, seed is
raised from stumps or any refuse heads that may be standing when
spring
comes round. For this reason English drumhead cabbage seed is better
suited to raise a mass of leaves than heads, and always disappoints
our
American farmers who buy it because it is cheap with the expectation
of
raising cabbage for market. English-grown drumhead cabbage seed is
utterly worthless for use in this country except to raise greens or
collards.

The following are foreign varieties that are accepted in this country
as
standards, and for years have been more or less extensively
cultivated:
EARLY YORK, EARLY OXHEART, EARLY WINNIGSTADT, RED DUTCH, RED DRUMHEAD.
In my experience as a seed dealer, the Sugar Loaf and Oxheart are
losing
ground in the farming community, the Early Jersey Wakefield having, to
a
large extent, replaced them.

~Early York.~ Heads nearly ovoid, rather soft, with few waste leaves
surrounding them, which are of a bright green color. Reliable for
heading. Stump rather short. Plant two feet by eighteen inches. This
cabbage has been cultivated in England over a hundred years. LITTLE
PIXIE with me is earlier than Early York, as reliable for heading,
heads much harder, and is of better flavor; the heads do not grow
quite
as large.

~Early Oxheart.~ Heads nearly egg-shaped, small, hard, few waste

leaves,
stumps short. A little later than Early York. Have the rows two feet
apart, and the plants eighteen inches apart in the row.

~Early Winnigstadt.~ (A German cabbage.) Heads nearly conical in

shape,
having usually a twist of leaf at the top; larger than Oxheart, are
harder than any of the early oblong heading cabbages; stumps middling
short. Matures about ten days later than Early York. The Winnigstadt
is
remarkably reliable for heading, being not excelled in this respect
when
the seed has been raised with care, by any cabbage grown. It is a
capital sort for early market outside our large cities, where the very
early kinds are not so eagerly craved. It is so reliable for heading,
that it will often make fine heads where other sorts fail; and I would
advise all who have not succeeded in their efforts to grow cabbage, to
try this before giving up their attempts. It is raised by some for
winter use, and where the drumheads are not so successfully raised, I
would advise my farmer friends to try the Winnigstadt, as the heads
are
so hard that they keep without much waste. Have rows two feet apart,
and
plant twenty inches to two feet apart in the rows.

~Red Dutch.~ Heads nearly conical, medium sized, hard, of a very deep
red; outer leaves numerous, and not so red as the head, being somewhat
mixed with green; stump rather long. This cabbage is usually planted
too
late; it requires nearly the whole season to mature. It is used for
pickling, or cut up fine as a salad, served with vinegar and pepper.
This is a very tender cabbage, and, were it not for its color, would
be
an excellent sort to boil; to those who have a mind to eat it with
their
eyes shut, this objection will not apply.

~Red Drumhead.~ Like the preceding, with the exception that the heads
grow round, or nearly so, are harder, and of double the size. It is
very
difficult to raise seed from this cabbage in this country. I am
acquainted with five trials, made in as many different years, two of
which I made myself, and all were nearly utter failures, the yield,
when
the hardest heads were selected, being at about the rate of two great
spoonfuls of seed from every twenty cabbages. French seed-growers are
more successful, otherwise this seed would have to sell at a far
higher
figure in the market than any other sort.

~The Little Pixie.~ has much to recommend it, in earliness, quality,

reliability for heading, and hardness of the head; earlier than Early
York, though somewhat smaller.

Among those that deserve to be heartily welcomed and grow in favor,

are
the EARLY ULM SAVOY (for engraving and description of which see
under head of Savoy), and the ST. DENNIS DRUMHEAD, a late,
short-stumped sort, setting a large, round, very solid head, as large,
but harder, than Premium Flat Dutch. The leaves are of a bluish-green,
and thicker than those of most varieties of drumhead. Our brethren in
Canada think highly of this cabbage, and if we want to try a new
drumhead, I will speak a good word for this one.

~Early Schweinfurt~, or ~Schweinfurt Quintal~, is an excellent early

drumhead for family use; the heads range in size from ten to eighteen
inches in diameter, varying with the conditions of cultivation more
than
any other cabbage I am acquainted with. They are flattish round, weigh
from three to nine pounds when well grown, are very symmetrical in
shape, standing apart from the surrounding leaves. They are not solid,
though they have the finished appearance that solidity gives; they are
remarkably tender, as though blanched, and of very fine flavor. It is
among the earliest of drumheads, maturing at about the same time as
the
Early Winnigstadt. As an early drumhead for the family garden, it has
no
superior; and where the market is near, and does not insist that a
cabbage head must be hard to be good, it has proved a very profitable
market sort.

The following are either already standard American varieties of

cabbage,
or such as are likely soon to become so; very possibly there are two
or
three other varieties or strains that deserve to be included in the
list. I give all that have proved to be first class in my locality:
EARLY WAKEFIELD, EARLY WYMAN, EARLY SUMMER, ALL SEASONS, HARD HEADING,
SUCCESSION, WARREN, VANDERGAW, PEERLESS, NEWARK, FLAT DUTCH, PREMIUM
FLAT DUTCH, STONE MASON, LARGE LATE DRUMHEAD, MARBLEHEAD MAMMOTH
DRUMHEAD, AMERICAN GREEN GLAZED, FOTTLER'S DRUMHEAD, BERGEN DRUMHEAD,
DRUMHEAD SAVOY, and AMERICAN GREEN GLOBE SAVOY. All of these
varieties,
as I have previously stated, are but improvements of foreign kinds;
but
they are so far improved through years of careful selection and
cultivation, that, as a rule, they appear quite distinct from the
originals when grown side by side with them, and this distinction is
more or less recognized, in both English and American catalogues, by
the
adjective "American" or "English" being added after varieties bearing
the same name.

~Early Wakefield~, sometimes called ~Early Jersey Wakefield.~ Heads

mostly nearly conical in shape but sometimes nearly round, of good
size
for early, very reliable for heading; stumps short. A very popular
early
cabbage in the markets of Boston and New York. Plant two and a half
feet
by two feet. There are two strains of this cabbage, one a little later
and larger than the other.

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

~Early Wyman.~ This cabbage is named after Capt. Wyman, of Cambridge,

the originator. Like Early Wakefield the heads are usually somewhat
conical, but sometimes nearly round; in structure they are compact. In
earliness it ranks about with the Early Wakefield, and making heads of
double the size, it has a high value as an early cabbage. Capt. Wyman
had entire control of this cabbage until within the past few years,
and,
consequently, has held Boston Market in his own hands, to the chagrin
of
his fellow market gardeners, raising some seasons as many as thirty
thousand heads. Have the rows from two to two and a half feet apart,
and
the plants from twenty to twenty-four inches apart in the row. Crane's
Early is a cross between the Wyman and Wakefield, intermediate in size
and earliness.

[Illustration]

~Premium Flat Dutch.~ Large, late variety; heads either round or flat,
on the top (varying with different strains); rather hard; color bluish
green; leaves around heads rather numerous; towards the close of the
season, the edge of some of the exterior leaves and the top of the
heads
assume a purple cast. The edges of the exterior leaves, and of the two
or three that make the outside of the head, are quite ruffled, so that
when grown side by side with Stone Mason, this distinction between the
habit of growth of the two varieties is noticeable at quite a
distance.
Stumps short; reliable for heading. Have the rows three feet apart,
and
the plants from two and a half to three feet apart in the rows. This
cabbage is very widely cultivated, and, in many respects, is an
excellent sort to raise for late marketing. There are several strains
of
it catalogued by different seedsmen under various names, such as Sure
Head, &c.

[Illustration]

~Stone Mason.~ An improvement on the Mason, which cabbage was selected

by Mr. John Mason of Marblehead, from a number of varieties of cabbage
that came from a lot of seed purchased and planted as Savoys. Mr. John
Stone afterwards improved upon the Mason cabbage, by increasing the
size
of the heads. Different growers differ in their standard of a Stone
Mason cabbage, in earliness and lateness, and in the size, form, and
hardness of the head. But all these varieties agree in the
characteristics of being very reliable for heading, in having heads
which are large, very hard, very tender, rich and sweet; short stumps,
and few waste leaves. The color of the leaves varies from a bluish
green
to a pea-green, and the structure from nearly smooth to much
blistered.
In their color and blistering some specimens have almost a Savoy cast.
The heads of the best varieties of Stone Mason range in weight from
six
to twenty-five pounds, the difference turning mostly on soil, manure,
and cultivation.

The Stone Mason is an earlier cabbage than Premium Flat Dutch, has
fewer
waste leaves, and side by side, under high cultivation, grows to an
equal or larger size, while it makes heads that are decidedly harder
and
sweeter. These cabbages are equally reliable for heading. I am
inclined
to the opinion that under poor cultivation the Premium Flat Dutch will
do somewhat better than the Stone Mason.

Until the introduction of Fottler's Drumhead it was the standard

drumhead cabbage in the markets of Boston and other large cities of
the
North. Have the rows three feet apart, and the plants from two to
three
feet apart in the row.

~Large Late Drumhead.~ Heads large, round, sometimes flattened at the

top, close and firm; loose leaves numerous; stems short; reliable for
heading, hardy, and a good keeper. The name "Large Late Drumhead"
includes varieties raised by several seedsmen in this country, all of
which resemble each other in the above characteristics, and differ in
but minor points. Have rows three feet apart, and plants from two and
a
half to three feet apart in the row.

~Marblehead Mammoth Drumhead.~ This is the largest of the cabbage

family, having sometimes been grown to weigh over ninety pounds to the
plant. It originated in Marblehead, Mass., being produced by Mr.
Alley,
probably from the Mason, by years of high cultivation and careful
selection of seed stock. I introduced this cabbage and the Stone Mason
to the general public many years ago, and it has been pretty
thoroughly
disseminated throughout the United States. Heads varying in shape
between hemispherical and spherical, with but few waste leaves
surrounding them; size very large, varying from fifteen to twenty
inches
in diameter, and, in some specimens, they have grown to the
extraordinary dimensions of twenty-four inches. In good soil, and with
the highest culture, this variety has attained an average weight of
thirty pounds by the acre. Quality, when well grown, remarkably sweet
and tender, as would be inferred from the rapidity of its growth.
Cultivate in rows four feet apart, and allow four feet between the
plants in the rows. Sixty tons of this variety have been raised from a
single acre.

~American Green Glazed.~ Heads loose, though rather large, with a

great
body of waste leaves surrounding them; quality poor; late; stump long.
This cabbage was readily distinguished among all the varieties in my
experimental plot by the deep, rich green of the leaves, with their
bright lustre as though varnished. It is grown somewhat extensively in
the South, as it is believed not to be so liable to injury from
insects
as other varieties. Plant two and a half feet apart each way. I would
advise my Southern friends to try the merits of other kinds before
adopting this poor affair. I know, through my correspondence, that the
Mammoth has done well as far South as Louisiana and Cuba, and the
Fottler, in many sections of the South, has given great satisfaction.

[Illustration]

~Fottler's Early Drumhead.~ Several years ago a Boston seedsman

imported
a lot of cabbage seed from Europe, under the name of Early Brunswick
Short Stemmed. It proved to be a large heading and very early
Drumhead.
The heads were from eight to eighteen inches in diameter nearly flat,
hard, sweet, and tender in quality; few waste leaves; stump short. In
earliness it was about a fortnight ahead of the Stone Mason. It was so
much liked by the market gardeners that the next season he ordered a
larger quantity; but the second importation, though ordered and sent
under the same name, proved to be a different and inferior kind, and
the
same result followed one or two other importations. The two gardeners
who received seed of the first importation brought to market a fine,
large Drumhead, ten days or a fortnight ahead of their fellows. The
seed
of the true stock was eagerly bought up by the Boston market
gardeners,
most of it at _five dollars an ounce_. After an extensive trial on a
large scale by the market farmers around Boston, and by farmers in
various parts of the United States, Fottler's Cabbage has given great
satisfaction, and become a universal favorite, and when once known it,
and especially the improved strain of it, known as Deep Head, is fast
replacing some of the old varieties of Drumhead. Very reliable for
heading.

[Illustration]

~Vandergaw Cabbage.~ This new Long Island Cabbage must be classed as A

No. 1 for the midsummer and late market. It is as sure to head as the
Succession, and has some excellent characteristics in common.

It makes large, green heads, hard, tender, and crisp. This is an

acquisition.

[Illustration]

~The Warren Cabbage.~ This first-class cabbage is closely allied to,

but
an improvement on, the old Mason Cabbage of twenty-five years ago. It
makes a head deep, round, and very hard, the outer leaves wrapping it
over very handsomely. In reliability for heading no cabbage surpasses
it; a field of them when in their prime is as pretty a sight as a
cabbage man would wish to see. It comes in as early as some strains of
Fottler, and a little earlier than others. A capital sort to succeed
the
Early Summer. The heads being very thick through, and nearly round,
make
it an excellent sort to carry through the winter, as it "peels" well,
as
cabbage-growers say. Ten inches in diameter, in size it is just about
right for profitable marketing. A capital sort, exceedingly popular
among market-man in this vicinity.

[Illustration]

~Early Bleichfeld Cabbage.~ I find the Bleichfeld to be among the

earliest of the large, hard-heading Drumheads, maturing earlier than
the
Fottler's Brunswick. The heads are large, very solid, tender when
cooked, and of excellent flavor. The color is a lighter green than
most
varieties and it is as reliable for heading as any cabbage I have ever
grown. The above engraving I have had made from a photograph of a
specimen grown on my grounds.

[Illustration]

~Danish Drumhead Cabbage.~ In 1879, Mr. Edward Abelgoord wrote me from

Canada, that he raised a large Drumhead Cabbage, the seed of which was
brought from Denmark, which was the best kind of cabbage that he had
seen in that latitude (46 deg.), being very valuable for the extreme
North.
It was earlier than Fottler's Drumhead, and made large, flat heads, of
excellent flavor, and was so reliable for heading. I raised a field of
this new cabbage, and it proved a large, flat, early Drumhead, very
reliable for heading.

[Illustration]

~The Reynolds Early Cabbage.~ In the year 1875, Mr. Franklin Reynolds,
of this town, crossed the Cannon-Ball Cabbage on the Schweinfurt
Quintal, by carefully transferring the pollen of the former on the
latter, the stamens having first been removed, and immediately tying
muslin around the impregnated blossoms to keep away all insects. The
results were a few ripe seeds. These were carefully saved and planted
the next season, when the product showed the characteristics of the
two
parents. The best heads were selected from the lot, and, from these,
seeds were raised. Several selections were made of the choicest heads
from year to year; and I now have the pleasure of introducing the
results, _a new cabbage which combines the good qualities of both its
parents_.

The flavor of this new cabbage is rich, tender, and sweet, being
superior to the general Drumhead class, making it a very superior
variety for family use, and also for marketing when there is not a
long
transportation. None of the scores of varieties I have ever grown has
a
shorter stump than this; the heads appear to rest directly on the
ground, and no one is surer to head.

[Illustration]

~All-Seasons Cabbage.~ This new cabbage is the result of a cross made

by
a Long Island gardener between the Flat Dutch and a variety of
Drumhead.
The result is a remarkably large, early Drumhead, that matures close
in
time with the Early Summer, while it is from one third to one half
larger. It is an excellent variety either as an early or late sort;
the
roundness of the head, leaving a thick, solid cabbage, should it
become
necessary, as is often the case with those marketed in the spring, to
peel off the outer layer of leaves. Heads large in size, solid and
tender, and rich flavored when cooked. It has already, in three years,
verified the prophecy I made when sending it out, and become a
standard
variety in some localities.

[Illustration]

~Gregory's Hard-Heading Cabbage.~ I am not acquainted with any variety

of cabbage (I believe I have raised about all the native and foreign
varieties that have been catalogued) that makes so hard a head as does
the "Hard-heading" when fully matured. Neither am I acquainted with
any
variety that is so late a keeper as is this; the German gardener, from
whom I obtained it, said that it gave him, and his friends who had it,
complete control of the Chicago market for about a fortnight after all
other varieties had "played out." My own experience with it tends to
confirm this statement, for under the same conditions it kept
decidedly
later than all my other varieties, was greener in color, and when
planted out they were so late to push seed-shoots that I almost
despaired of getting a crop of seed. I find, also, that they are much
less inclined to burst than any of the hard-heading varieties. Heads
grow to a good market size, are more globular than Flat Dutch; and, as
might be presumed, of great weight in proportion to their size. The
color is a peculiar green, rather more of an olive than most kinds of
cabbage. About a fortnight later than Flat Dutch. For late fall,
winter,
and spring sales plant 3 by 3 the first of June.

[Illustration]

~Early Deep-Head Cabbage.~ This is a valuable improvement on the

Fottler
made by years of careful selection and high cultivation by Mr. Alley
of
Marblehead, a famous cabbage grower, who, as the name indicates, has
produced a deeper, rounder heading variety than the original Fottler,
thus making what that was not, an excellent sort for winter and spring
marketing. It has all the excellent traits of its parent in
reliability
for making large, handsome heads.

~Bergen Drumhead.~ Heads round, rather flat on the top, solid; leaves
stout, thick, and rather numerous; stump short. With me, under same
cultivation, it is later than Stone Mason. It is tender and of good
flavor. A popular sort in many sections, particularly in the markets
of
New York City. Have the plants three feet apart each way.
SAVOY CABBAGES.

The Savoys are the tenderest and richest-flavored of cabbages, though

not always as sweet as a well-grown Stone Mason; nor is a Savoy grown
on
poor soil, or one that has been pinched by drouth, as tender as a
Stone
Mason that has been grown under favoring circumstances; yet it
remains,
as a rule, that the Savoy surpasses all other cabbages in tenderness,
and in a rich, marrow-like flavor. The Savoys are also the hardiest of
the cabbage tribe, enduring in the open field a temperature within
sixteen degrees of zero without serious injury; and if the heads are
not
very hard they will continue to withstand repeated changes from
freezing
to thawing for a couple of months, as far north as the latitude of
Boston. A degree of freezing improves them, and it is common in that
latitude to let such as are intended for early winter use, in the
family, remain standing in the open ground where they grew, cutting
the
heads as they are wanted.

As a rule Savoys neither head as readily (the "Improved American

Savoy"
being an exception) nor do the heads grow as large as the Drumhead
varieties; indeed, most of the kinds in cultivation are so unreliable
in
these respects as to be utterly worthless for market purposes, and
nearly so for the kitchen garden.

~The Drumhead Savoy.~ This, as the name implies, is the result of a

cross between a Savoy and a Drumhead cabbage, partaking of the
characteristics of each. Many of the cabbages sold in the market as
Savoy are really this variety. One variety in my experimental garden,
which I received as TOUR'S SAVOY (evidently a Drumhead variety
of the Savoy), proved to be much like Early Schweinfurt in earliness
and
style of heading; the heads were very large, but quite loose in
structure; I should think it would prove valuable for family use.

It is a fact that does not appear to be generally known that we have

among the Savoys some remarkably early sorts which rank with the
earliest varieties of cabbage grown. Pancalier and Early Ulm Savoy are
earlier than that old standard of earliness, Early York; Pancalier
being
somewhat earlier than Ulm.

~Pancalier~ is characterized by very coarsely blistered leaves of the

darkest-green color; the heads usually gather together, being the only
exception I know of to the rule that cabbage heads are made up of
overlapping leaves, wrapped closely together. It has a short stump,
and
with high cultivation is reliable for heading. The leaves nearest the
head, though not forming a part of it, are quite tender, and may be
cooked with the head. Plant fifteen by thirty inches.

~Early Ulm Savoy~ is a few days later than Pancalier, and makes a
larger
head; the leaves are of a lighter green and not so coarsely blistered;
stump short; head round; very reliable for heading. It has a capital
characteristic in not being so liable as most varieties to burst the
head and push the seed shoot immediately after the head is matured.
For
first early, I know no cabbages so desirable as these for the kitchen
garden.

[Illustration]

The ~Early Dwarf Savoy~ is a desirable variety of second early. The

heads are rather flat in shape, and grow to a fair size. Stumps short;
reliable for heading.

~Improved American Savoy.~ Everything considered, this is the Savoy,

"par excellence," for the market garden. It is a true Savoy, the heads
grow to a large size, from six to ten inches in diameter, varying, of
course, with soil, manure, and cultivation. In shape the heads are
mostly globular, occasionally oblong, having but few waste leaves, and
grow very solid. Stump short. In reliability for heading it is
unsurpassed by any other cabbage.

[Illustration]

~Golden Savoy~ differs from other varieties in the color of the head,
which rises from the body of light green leaves, of a singular pale
yellow color, as though blanched. The stumps are long, and the head
rather small, a portion of these growing pointed. It is very late, not
worth cultivating, except as a curiosity.

~Norwegian Savoy.~ This is a singular half cabbage, half kale--at

least,
so it has proved under my cultivation. The leaves are long, narrow,
tasselated, and somewhat blistered. The whole appearance is very
singular and rather ornamental. I have tried this cabbage twice, but
have never got beyond the possible promise of a head.

~Victoria Savoy~, ~Russian Savoy~, and ~Cape Savoy~, tested in my

experimental garden, did not prove desirable either for family use or
for market purposes.

~Feather Stemmed Savoy.~ This is a cross between the Savoy and

Brussels
sprouts, having the habit of growth of Brussels sprouts.

OTHER VARIETIES OF CABBAGE.

I will add notes on some other varieties which have been tested, from
year to year, in my experimental plot. The results from tests of
different strains of standard sorts, I have not thought it worth the
while to record.

~Cannon Ball.~ The heads are usually spherical, attaining to a

diameter
of from five to nine inches, with the surrounding leaves gathered
rather
closely around them; in hardness and relative weight it is excelled by
but few varieties. Stump short. It delights in the highest cultivation
possible. It is about a week later than Early York. In those markets
where cabbages are sold by weight, it will pay to grow for market; it
is
a good cabbage for the family garden.

~Early Cone~, of the Wakefield class, but with me not as early.

~Garfield Pickling~, of late variety, of the conical class.

~Cardinal Red.~ A large, late variety of red; but on my grounds, it is

not equal to Red Drumhead.

~Vilmorin's Early Flat Dutch.~ Not quite as large as Early Summer,

though about as early and resembles it in shape of head.

~Royal German Drumhead.~ Reliable for heading.

~Large White Solid Magdeburg.~ A late Drumhead; short stumped;

reliable
for heading. Medium late.

~Pak Choi.~ Evidently of the Kale class; no heads.

~Chou de Burghlez~ and ~Chou de Milan~. These are coarse, loose, small
heading varieties, allied to Kale. The latter is of the Savoy class.

~Earliest Erfurt Blood-Red.~ Decidedly the earliest of the red

cabbages.
Very reliable for heading. A Drumhead; smaller than Red Drumhead. Very
dark red.

~Empress.~ Resembles Wyman in size and shape; but the heads are more
pointed, and it makes head earlier. Heads well.

~Schlitzer.~ This makes heads mostly shaped like the Winnigstadt, but
a
third larger. Its mottling of green and purple gives it a striking
appearance. Early and very reliable for heading. Heads are not very
hard; but, when cooked, are just about as tender and rich-flavored as
the Savoy. Promises to be an excellent sort for family use.

~Rothelburg.~ An early sure heading variety of the Drumhead class.

Heads
of medium size; resembling in shape Deep Head.

~Sure Head.~ A strain of Flat Dutch. A late variety; heads deeper than
Fottler, but with me not so reliable.

~Dark Red Pointed.~ Resembles Winnigstadt in shape. About as late as

Red
Dutch, and not as desirable.

~Bacalan Late.~ In shape resembles Winnigstadt. Grow a little wild.

~Amack.~ A late variety. Heads generally nearly globular and quite

hard.
Very reliable for heading.

~Bangholm.~ First of all. As early as the earliest, but very small,--

not
as large as Little Pixie.
~Early Enfield Market.~

~Tourleville.~ Heads resemble Wakefield in form; but, with me, are

neither so large nor so large, and are more inclined to burst.

~Danish Round Winter.~ A late variety; bearing deep, hard heads on

long
stumps.

~Dwarf Danish.~ Late. Reliable to head; uneven in time of heading.

Worth
planting for market.

~Danish Ball Drumhead.~ Heads not characterized by globular shape, but

rather flattish. Irregular in length of stump.

~Early Paris.~ Closely resembles Wakefield.

~Very Early Etampes.~ Earlier than Wakefield. Shape partakes of both

Oxheart and Wakefield.

~Early Mohawk.~ Light green in color; a good header, but not so hard
heading as Fottler. Appears to have a little of the Savoy cross in it.

~Sure Head.~ A late variety of the Dutch class; reliable for heading;
stump rather long.

~Excelsior.~ A variety which is of the Fottler class, but makes

smaller
sized heads.

~Louisville Drumhead.~ Of the flat Dutch type; nearly as early as

Early
Summer.

~Early Advance.~ Of the Wakefield type. With me it is full as early as

Wakefield, and considerably larger. Rather coarser in structure.

~Market Garden.~ Of the Fottler class; very reliable for heading.

Heads
of good size, but rather coarser than the Deep Head.

~Chase's Excelsior.~ A second early; much like Fottler; heads finely.

~Bloomsdale Early Market.~ With me this is not as good a variety as

Wakefield.

~Berkshire Beauty.~ There appear to be fine possibilities in this

cabbage, which have not yet been developed into uniformity.

~Landredth's Extra Early.~ With me it does not prove as early as

Wakefield, and does not head as well.

~Bridgeport Late Drumhead.~ A large Drumhead; in size, between Stone

Mason and Marblehead Mammoth. Reliable for heading, but does not head
as
hard as either of these varieties. Not inclined to burst.

~Large French Oxheart~ closely resembles Early Oxheart, but grows to

double the size, and is about ten days later; quality usually good.
~Early Sugar Loaf.~ Heads shaped much like a loaf of sugar standing on
its smaller end, resembling, as Burr well says, a head of Cos lettuce
in
its shape, and in the peculiar clasping of the leaves about the head.
Heads rather hard, medium size; early, and tender. It is said not to
stand the heat as well as most sorts.

~Large Brunswick Short-Stemmed.~ (English seed.) Late, long-stumped,

wild, plenty of leaves, almost no head; bears but a slight resemblance
to Fottler's Drumhead.

~Early Empress.~ Cabbages well; heads conical; early.

~Robinson's Champion Ox Drumhead.~ Stump long; heads soft and not very
large; wild.

~English Winnigstadt.~ Long-stumped; irregular; not to be compared

with
French stock.

~Blenheim.~ Early; heads mostly conical; of good size.

~Shillings Queen.~ Early; heads conical; stumps long.

~Carter's Superfine Early Dwarf.~ Surpasses in earliness and hardness

of
head. Closely allied to Little Pixie.

~Enfield Market Improved.~ Most of the heads were flat; rather wild;
not
to be compared with Fottler.

~Kemp's Incomparable.~ Long-headed; heads, when mature, do not appear

to
burst as readily as with most of the conical class.

~Fielderkraut.~ Closely resembles Winnigstadt, with larger and longer

heads and stump; requires more room than Winnigstadt.

~Ramsay's Winter Drumhead.~ Closely resembles St. Dennis. I think it

is
the same.

~Pomeranian Cabbage.~ Heads very long; quite large for a conical

heading
sort; very symmetrical and hard; color, yellowish-green. It handles
well, and I should think would prove a good keeper. Medium early.

~Alsacian Drumhead.~ Stump long; late; wild.

~Marbled Bourgogne.~ Stumps long; heads small and hard; color, a

mixture
of green and red.

CABBAGE GREENS.
In the vicinity of our large cities, the market gardeners sow large
areas very thickly with cabbage seed, early in the spring, to raise
young plants to be sold as greens. The seed is sown broadcast at the
rate of ten pounds and upwards to the acre. Seed of the Savoy cabbage
is
usually sown for this purpose, which may be sometimes purchased at a
discount, owing to some defect in quality or purity, that would render
it worthless for planting for a crop of heading cabbage.

The young plants are cut off about even with the ground, when four or
five inches high, washed, and carried to market in barrels or bushel
boxes. The price varies with the state of the market, from 12 cents to
$3 a barrel, the average price in Boston market being about a dollar.
With the return of spring most families have some cabbage stumps
remaining in the cellar; these can be planted about a foot apart in
some
handy spot along the edge of the garden, where they will not interfere
with the general crop, setting them under ground from a quarter to a
half their length, depending on the length of the stumps. They will
soon
be covered with green shoots, which should be used as greens before
the
blossom buds show themselves, as they then become too strong to be
agreeable. If the spot is rich and has been well dug, the rapidity of
growth is surprising; and if the shoots are frequently gathered, many
nice messes of greens can be grown from a few stumps. Farmers in
Northern Vermont tell me, that if they break off each seed shoot as
soon
as it shows itself, close home to the stump, nice little heads will
push
out on almost every stump. In England, where the winter climate is
much
milder than that of New England, it is the practice to raise a second
crop of heads in this way. In my own neighborhood I have seen an acre
from which a crop of drumhead cabbage had been cut off early in the
season, every stump on which had from three to six hard heads, varying
from the size of a hen's egg to that of a goose egg; but to get this
second growth of heads, as much of the stump and leaves should be left
as possible, when cutting out the original head. As in the cabbage
districts of the North little or no use is made of this prolific after
growth, it is worse than useless to suffer the ground to be exhausted
by
it; the stump should be pulled by the potato hoe as soon as the heads
are marketed. When cabbages are planted out for seed, if, for any
reason, the seed shoot fails to push out, and at times when it does
push
out, fine sprouts for greens will start below the head; when the stock
of these sprouts becomes too tough for use, the large leaves may be
stripped from them and cooked. I usually break off the tender tops of
large sprouts, and then strip off the tenderest of the large leaves
below.

CABBAGE FOR STOCK.

No vegetable raised in the temperate zone, Mangold Wurtzel alone

excepted, will produce as much food to the acre, both for man and
beast,
as the cabbage. I have seen acres of the Marblehead Mammoth drumhead
which would average thirty pounds to each cabbage, some specimens
weighing over sixty pounds. The plants were four feet apart each way
which would give a product of over forty tons to the acre; and I have
tested a crop of Fottler's that yielded thirty tons of green food to
the
half acre. Other vegetables are at times raised for cattle feed, such
as
potatoes, carrots, ruta bagas, mangold wurtzels; a crop of potatoes
yielding four hundred bushels to the acre at sixty pounds the bushel
would weigh twelve tons; a crop of carrot yielding twelve hundred
bushels to the acre would weigh thirty tons; ruta bagas sometimes
yield
thirty tons; and mangolds as high as seventy tons to the acre. I have
set all these crops at a high capacity for fodder purposes; the same
favoring conditions of soil, manure, and cultivation that would
produce
four hundred bushels of potatoes, twelve hundred bushels of carrots,
and
thirty-five tons of ruta baga turnips, would give a crop of forty tons
of the largest variety of drumhead cabbage. If we now consider the
comparative merits of these crops for nutriment, we find that the
cabbage excels them all in this department also. The potatoes abound
in
starch, the mangold and carrot are largely composed of water, while
the
cabbage abounds in rich, nitrogeneous food.

Prof. Stewart states that cabbage for milch cows has about the same
feeding value as sweet corn ensilage, and makes the value not over
$3.40
per ton. Now it is admitted by general current that the value of
common
ensilage, which is inferior to that made from sweet corn, is, when
compared with good English hay, as 3 to 1. This would make cabbages
for
milch cows worth not far from $7.00 per ton.

When cabbage is kept for stock feed later than the first severe frost,
if the quantity is large there is considerable waste even with the
best
of care. The loose leaves should be fed first, and the heads kept in a
cool place, not more than two or three deep, at as near the freezing
point as possible. If it has been necessary to cut the heads from the
stumps, they may be piled, after the weather has set in decidedly
cold,
conveniently near the barn, and kept covered with a foot of straw or
old litter. As long as a cabbage is kept frozen there is no waste to
it;
but if it be allowed to freeze and thaw two or three times, it will
soon
rot with an awful stench. I suspect that it is this rotten portion of
the cabbage that often gives the bad flavor to milk. On the other
hand,
if it is kept in too warm and dry a place, the outer leaves will dry,
turning yellow, and the whole head lose in weight,--if it be not very
hard, shrivelling, and, if hard, shrinking. If they are kept in too
warm
and wet a place, the heads will decay fast, in a black, soft rot. The
best way to preserve cabbages for stock into the winter, is to place
them in trenches a few inches below the surface, and there cover with
from a foot to two feet of coarse hay or straw, the depth depending on
the coldness of the locality. When the ground has been frozen too hard
to open with a plough or spade, I have kept them until spring by
piling
them loosely, hay-stack shape, about four feet high, letting the frost
strike through them, and afterwards covering with a couple of feet of
eel-grass; straw or coarse hay would doubtless do as well.

I have treated of cabbage thus far when grown specially for stock; in
every piece of cabbage handled for market purposes, there is a large
proportion of waste suitable for stock feed, which includes the
outside
leaves and such heads as have not hardened up sufficiently for market.
On walking over a piece just after my cabbages for seed stock have
been
taken off, I note that the refuse leaves that were stripped from the
heads before pulling are so abundant they nearly cover the ground. If
leaves so stripped remain exposed to frost, they soon spoil; or, if
earlier in the season they are exposed to the sun, they soon become
yellow, dry, and of but little value. They can be rapidly collected
with
a hay fork and carted, if there be but a few, into the barn; should
there be a large quantity, dump them within a convenient distance of
the
barn or feeding ground, but not where the cattle can trample them, and
spread them so that they will be but a few inches in depth. If piled
in
heaps they will quickly heat; but even then, if not too much decayed,
cattle will eat them with avidity. Cabbages are hardy plants, and
loose
heads will stand a good deal of freezing and thawing without serious
injury. They are not generally injured with the thermometer 16 deg.
below
freezing. The waste, after the seed and all market cabbage are
removed,
brings me about $10 per acre on the ground, for cow feed.

If cabbage is fed to cows in milk without some care, it will be apt to

give the milk a strong cabbage flavor; all the feed for the day should
be given early in the morning. Beginning with a small quantity, and
gradually increasing it, the dairy man will soon learn his limits. The
effect of a liberal feed to milk stock is to largely increase the flow
of milk. Avoid feeding to any extent while the leaves are frozen.

An English writer says: "The cabbage comes into use when other things
begin to fail, and it is by far the best succulent vegetable for
milking
cows,--keeping up the yield of milk, and preserving, better than any
other food, some portion of the quality which cheese loses when the
cows
quit their natural pasturage. Cows fed on cabbages are always quiet
and
satisfied, while on turnips they often scour and are restless. When
frosted, they are liable to produce hoven, unless kept in a warm shed
to
thaw before being used; fifty-six pounds given, at two meals, are as
much as a large cow should have in a day. Frequent cases of abortion
are
caused by an over-supply of green food. Cabbages are excellent for
young
animals, keeping them in health, and preventing 'black leg.' A calf of
seven months may have twenty pounds a day."

RAISING CABBAGE SEED.

Cabbage seed in England, particularly of the drumhead sorts, is mostly

raised from stumps, or from the refuse that remains after all that is
salable has been disposed of. The agent of one of the largest English
seed houses, a few years since, laughed at my "wastefulness," as he
termed it, in raising seed from solid heads. In our country, cabbage
seed is mostly raised from soft, half-formed heads, which are grown as
a
late crop, few, if any of them, being hard enough to be of any value
in
the market. Seedsmen practise selecting a few fine, hard heads, from
which to raise their seed stock. It has been my practice to grow seed
from none but extra fine heads, better than the average of those
carried
to market. I do this on the theory that no cabbage can be too good for
a
seedhead, if the design is to keep the stock first-class. Perhaps such
strictness may not be necessary; but I had rather err in setting out
too
good heads than too poor ones; besides, the great hardness obtained by
the heads of the Stone Mason, makes it possible, at least, that I am
right. Cabbage raised from seed grown from stumps are apt to be
unreliable for heading, and to grow long-stumped, though under
unfavorable conditions, long-stumped and poor-headed cabbage may grow
from the best of seed. To have the best of seed, all shoots that start
below the head should be broken off. To prevent the plants falling
over
after the seed-stalks are grown, dig deep holes, and plant the entire
stump in the ground. Scarecrows should be set up, or some like
precaution be taken, to keep away the little seed-birds, that begin to
crack the pods as soon as they commence to ripen. A plaster cat is a
very good scarecrow to frighten away birds from seed and small fruits,
if its location is changed every few days.

I find that the pods of cabbage seed grown South are tough, and not
brittle, like those grown North, and hence that they are injured but
little, if any, by seed birds. When the seed-pods have passed what
seedsmen call their "red" stage, they begin to harden; as soon as a
third of them are brown, the entire stalk may be cut and hung up in a
dry, airy place, for a few days, when the seed will be ready for
rubbing
or threshing out. Different varieties should be raised far apart to
insure purity; and cabbage seed had better not be raised in the
vicinity
of turnip seed. There is some difference of opinion as to the effect
of
growing these near each other; where the two vegetables blossom at the
same time, I should fear an admixture. When the care requisite to
select
good seed stock, and the trouble, and, often, great loss, in keeping
it
over winter, planting it in isolated locations, protecting it from
wind
and weather, guarding it from injury from birds and other enemies,
gathering it, cleaning it, are all considered, few men will find that
they can afford to raise their own seed, provided they can buy it from
reliable seedsmen.

COOKING CABBAGE, SOUR-KROUT, ETC.

Cabbage when boiled with salt pork, as it is mostly used, is the food
for strong and healthy digestive powers; but when eaten in its raw
state, served with vinegar and pepper, it is considered one of the
most
easily digested articles of diet. In the process of cooking, even with
the greatest care, a large portion of the sweetness is lost. The
length
of time required to cook cabbage by boiling varies with the quality,
those of the best quality requiring about twenty minutes, while others
require an hour. In cooking put it into boiling water in which a
little
salt and soda has been sprinkled, which will tend to preserve the
natural green color. It will be well to change the water once. The
peculiar aroma given out by cabbage when cooking is thought to depend
somewhat on the manner in which it is grown; those having been raised
with the least rank manure having the least. I think this is one of
the
whims of the community. By using some varieties of boilers all steam
is
carried into the fire, and there is no smell in the house.

To _Pickle_, select hard heads, quarter them, soak in salt and water
four or five days, then drain and treat as for other pickles, with
vinegar spiced to suit.

For _Cold Slaw_, select hard heads, halve and then slice up these
halves
exceedingly fine. Lay these in a deep dish, and pour over vinegar that
has been raised to the boiling point in which has been mixed a little
pepper and salt.

_Sour-Krout._ Take large, hard-headed drumheads, halve, and cut very

fine; then pack in a clean, tight barrel, beginning with a sprinkling
of
salt, and following with a layer of cabbage, and thus alternating
until
the barrel is filled. Now compact the mass as much as possible by
pounding, after which put on a well-fitting cover resting on the
cabbage, and lay heavy weights or a stone on this. When fermented it
is
ready for use. To prepare for the table fry in butter or fat.

The outer green leaves of cabbages are sometimes used to line a brass
or
copper kettle in which pickles are made in the belief that the vinegar
extracts the coloring substance (chlorophyl) in the leaves, and the
cucumbers absorbing this acquire a rich green color. Be not deceived
by
this transparent cheat, O simple housewife! the coloring matter comes
almost wholly from the copper or brass behind those leaves; and,
instead
of an innocent vegetable pigment, your green cucumbers are dyed with
the
poisonous carbonate of copper.

CABBAGES UNDER GLASS.

The very early cabbages usually bringing high prices, the enterprising
market gardener either winters the young plants under glass or starts
them there, planting the seed under its protecting shelter long before
the cold of winter is passed. When the design is to winter over fall
grown plants, the seed are planted in the open ground about the middle
of September, and at about the last of October they are ready to go
into
the cold frames, as such are called that depend wholly on the sun for
heat. Select those having short stumps and transplant into the frames,
about an inch and a half by two inches apart, setting them deep in the
soil up to the lower leaves, shading them with a straw mat, or the
like,
for a few days, after which let them remain without any glass over
them
until the frost is severe enough to begin to freeze the ground, then
place over the sashes; but bear in mind that the object is not to
promote growth, but, as nearly as possible, to keep them in a dormant
state, to keep them so cold that they will not grow, and just
sufficiently protected to prevent injury from freezing. With this
object
in view the sashes must be raised whenever the temperature is above
freezing, and this process will so harden the plants that they will
receive no serious injury though the ground under the sash should
freeze
two inches deep; cabbage plants will stand a temperature of fifteen to
twenty degrees below the freezing point. A covering of snow on the
sash
will do no harm, if it does not last longer than a week or ten days,
in
which case it must be removed. There is some danger to be feared from
ground mice, who, when everything else is locked up by the frost, will
instinctively take to the sash, and there cause much destruction among
the plants unless these are occasionally examined. When March opens
remove the sash when the temperature will allow, replacing it when the
weather is unseasonably cold, particularly at night. The plants may be
brought still farther forward by transferring them from the hot-bed
when
two or three inches high to cold frames, having first somewhat
hardened
them. When so transferred plant them about an inch apart, and shield
from the sun for two or three days. After this they may be treated as
in
cold frames. The transfer tends to keep them stocky, increases the
fibrous roots and makes the plants hardier. As the month advances it
may
be left entirely off, and about the first of April the plants may be
set
out in the open field, pressing fine earth firmly around the roots.

When cabbages are raised in hot-beds the seed, in the latitude of

Boston, should be planted on the first of March; in that of New York,
about a fortnight earlier. When two or three inches high, which will
be
in three or four weeks, they should be thinned to about four or less
to
an inch in the row. They should now be well hardened by partly drawing
off the sashes in the warm part of the day, and covering at night; as
the season advances remove the sashes entirely by day, covering only
at
night. By about the middle of April the plants will be ready for the
open ground.

When raised in cold frames in the spring, the seed should be planted
about the first of April, mats being used to retain by night the solar
heat accumulated during the day. As the season advances the same
process
of hardening will be necessary as with those raised in hot-beds.

COLD FRAME AND HOT-BED.

To carry on hot-beds on a large scale successfully is almost an art in

itself, and for fuller details I will refer my readers to works on
gardening. Early plants, in a small way, may be raised in flower pots
or
boxes in a warm kitchen window. It is best, if practicable, to have
but
one plant in each pot, that they may grow short and stocky. If the
seed
are not planted earlier than April, for out-of-door cultivation, a
cold
frame will answer.

For a cold frame select the locality in the fall, choosing a warm
location on a southern slope, protected by a fence or building on the
north and north-west. Set posts in the ground, nail two boards to
these
parallel to each other, one about a foot in height, and the other
towards the south about four inches narrower; this will give the
sashes
resting on them the right slope to shed the rain and receive as much
heat as possible from the sun. Have these boards at a distance apart
equal to the length of the sash, which may be any common window sash
for
a small bed, while three and a half feet is the length of a common
gardener's sash. If common window sash is used cut channels in the
cross-bars to let the water run off. Dig the ground thoroughly (it is
best to cover it in the fall with litter, to keep the frost out) and
rake out all stones or clods; then slide in the sash and let it remain
closed for three or four days, that the soil may be warmed by the
sun's
rays. The two end boards and the bottom board should rise as high as
the
sash, to prevent the heat escaping, and the bottom board of a small
frame should have a strip nailed inside to rest the sash on. Next rake
in, thoroughly, guano, or phosphate, or finely pulverized hen manure,
and plant in rows four to six inches apart. As the season advances
raise
the sashes an inch or two, in the middle of the day, and water freely,
at evening, with water that is nearly of the temperature of the earth
in
the frame. As the heat of the season increases whitewash the glass,
and
keep them more and more open until just before the plants are set in
open ground, then allow the glass to remain entirely off, both day and
night, unless there should be a cold rain. This will harden them so
that
they will not be apt to be injured by the cabbage beetle, as well as
chilled and put back by the change. Should the plants be getting too
large before the season for transplanting, they should be checked by
root pruning,--drawing a sharp knife within a couple of inches of the
stalk. If it is desirable still further to check their growth, or
harden
them, transplant into another cold frame, allowing each plant double
the
distance it before occupied.

The structure and management of a hot-bed is much the same as that of

a
cold frame, with the exception that the sashes are usually longer and
the back and front somewhat higher; being started earlier the
requisite
temperature has to be kept up by artificial means, fermenting manure
being relied upon for the purpose; and the loss of this heat has to be
checked more carefully by straw matting, and, in the far North, by
shutters also. In constructing it, horse-manure, with plenty of
litter,
and about a quarter its bulk in leaves, if attainable, all having been
well mixed together, is thrown into a pile, and left for a few days
until steam escapes, when the mass is again thrown over and left for
two
or three days more, after which it is thrown into the pit (or it may
be
placed directly on the surface) which is lined with boards, from
eighteen inches to two feet in depth, when it is beaten down with a
fork
and trodden well together. The sashes are now put on and kept there
until heat is developed. The first intense heat must be allowed to
pass
off, which will be in about three days after the high temperature is
reached. Now throw on six or eight inches of fine soil, in which mix
well rotted manure, free from all straw, or rake in, thoroughly,
superphosphate, or guano, at the rate of two thousand pounds to the
acre, and plant the seed as in cold frame. Harden the plants as
directed
in preceding paragraph.

CAULIFLOWER, BROCCOLI, BRUSSELS-SPROUTS, KALE, AND SEA-KALE.

My treatise on the cabbage would hardly be complete without some

allusion to such prominent members of the Brassica family as the
cauliflower, broccoli, brussels-sprouts, and kale.

~Cauliflower.~ Wrote the great Dr. Johnson: "Of all the flowers of the
garden, give me the cauliflower." Whether from this we are to infer
the
surpassing excellence of this member of the Brassica family, or that
the
distinguished lexicographer meant emphatically to state his preference
of utility to beauty (perhaps our own Ben. Franklin took a leaf from
him), each reader must be his own judge; but be that as it may, it
remains true, beyond all controversy, that the cauliflower, in
toothsome
excellence, stands at the head of the great family of which it is a
member. To be successful, and raise choice cauliflowers, is the height
of the ambition of the market gardener; and, with all his experience,
and with every facility at hand, he does not expect full success
oftener
than three years in four. The cauliflower, like the strawberry, is
exceedingly sensitive to the presence or absence of sufficient water,
and success or failure with the crop may turn on its having a full
supply from the time they are half grown. The finest specimens raised
in
Europe are grown in beds, which are kept well watered from the supply
which runs between them; and the most successful growers in the
country
irrigate their crops during periods of drouth. Cauliflowers do best on
deep, rich, rather moist soils. In the way of food, they want the very
best, and plenty of it at that. The successful competitor, who won the
first prize at the great Bay State Fair, to the disgusted surprise of
a
grower justly famous for his almost uniform success in winning the
laurels, whispered in my ear his secret: "R. manures very heavily in
the
spring for his crop. I manure very heavily both fall and spring." In
manuring, therefore, do as well by them as by your heaviest crop of
large drumhead cabbage, using rich and well-rotted manure, broadcast,
with dissolved bone or ashes, or both, in the drill. Plough deep, and
work the land very thoroughly, two ploughings, with a harrowing
between,
are better than one. Give plenty of room; three by three for the
smaller
sorts, and three by three and a half for the later and larger. They
need
the same cultivation, and, being subject to the same diseases and
injury
from insect enemies, need the same protection as their cousins of the
cabbage tribe. In raising for the summer market, start in the cold
frame, or plant as early as the ground can be worked, that the plants
may get well started before the dry season, or the crop will be likely
to make such small heads "buttons" as to be practically a failure. For
late crop, plant seed in the hills where they are to grow, from the
20th
of May to the middle of June. The crop ripens somewhat irregularly.
When
there is danger from frost, the later heads should be pulled and
stored,
with both roots and leaves, being crowded, standing as they grew, into
a
cold cellar or cold pit, when they will continue growing. As soon as
the
heads begin to form, they should be protected from sunlight by either
half breaking off the outer leaves and bending them over them, or by
gathering these leaves loosely together and confining them loosely by
rough pegs, or by tying them together with a wisp of rye-straw.

~Varieties.~ These are almost as numerous as in the cabbage family. I

find notes on some thirty-five varieties, tested from year to year, in
my experimental grounds. Most of them prove themselves to be but a
lottery, in this country of dry seasons, though in the moister climate
of the European localities, where they are at home, they are a
success.

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

The Half-Early Paris, or Demi-Dur, was for years the standard variety
raised in this country, and from this, by selection, favorite local
varieties were obtained; but, of late years, this has been, to a large
degree, superseded by several excellent sorts, of which the Extra-
Early
Dwarf Erfurt was, doubtless the parent. Principal among these
varieties
are the Snowball, the Sea-Foam, Vick's Ideal, and Berlin Dwarf. All of
these are early sorts and excellent strains. After testing them side
by
side, I find that the best strain of the Snowball is not excelled by
either of them. Of the somewhat later ripening sorts, a variety which
originated in this country, called the "Long Island Beauty," gives me
great satisfaction, in its reliability for heading, and in the large
size of its heads; this, with the Algerian, as a larger late sort,
will
give us a first-class series.

[Illustration]

Cauliflower seed is not raised, as yet, to any large extent in this

country, though some successful efforts have recently been made in
this
direction. I have found that there is a remarkable difference between
varieties in the quantity of seed they will yield. From one variety I
have raised as high as sixty pounds of seed from a given number of
plants, while from two others, equally early, having the same number
of
plants in each instance, and raised in the same location (an island in
the ocean), with precisely the same treatment in every way, I got, in
each case, less than a tablespoonful of seed, though the heads of some
of them grew to the enormous size of sixteen inches in diameter.

A fine cauliflower is the pet achievement of the market gardener. The

great aim is not to produce size only, "but the fine, white, creamy
color, compactness, and what is technically called curdy appearance,
from its resemblance to the curd of milk in its preparation for
cheese.
When the flower begins to open, or when it is of a warty or frost-like
appearance, it is less esteemed. It should not be cut in summer above
a
day before it is used." The cauliflower is served with milk and
butter,
or it may become a component of soups, or be used as a pickle.

The ~Broccoli~ are closely allied to the cauliflower, the white

varieties bearing so close a resemblance that one of them, the
Walcheren, is by some classed indiscriminately with each. The chief
distinction between the two is in hardiness, the broccoli being much
the
hardier.
Of Broccoli over forty varieties are named in foreign catalogues, of
which WALCHEREN is one of the very best. KNIGHT'S PROTECTING is an
exceedingly hardy dwarf sort. As a rule, the white varieties are
preferred to the purple kinds. Plant and treat as cauliflower.

Of ~Brussels-Sprouts~ (or bud-bearing cabbage) there are but two

varieties, the dwarf and the tall; the tall kind produces more buds,
while the dwarf is the hardier. The "sprouts" form on the stalks, and
are miniature heads of cabbage from the size of a pea to that of a
pigeon's egg. They are raised to but a limited extent in this country,
but in Europe they are grown on a large scale. The sprouts may be
cooked and served like cabbage, though oftentimes they are treated
more
as a delicacy and served with butter or some rich sauce. The FEATHER
STEM SAVOY and DALMENY SPROUTS are considered as hybrids,
the one between the brussels-sprouts and Savoy, the other between it
and
Drumhead Savoy. The soil for brussels-sprouts should not be so rich as
for cabbage, as the object is to grow them small and solid. Give the
same distance apart as for early cabbage, and the same manner of
cultivation. Break off the leaves at the sides a few at a time when
the
sprouts begin to form and when they are ready to use cut them off with
a
sharp knife.

~Kale.~ Sea-kale, or sea-cabbage, is a native of the sea coast of

England, growing in the sand and pebbles of the sea-shore. It is a
perennial, perfectly hardy, withstanding the coldest winters of New
England. The blossoms, though bearing a general resemblance to those
of
other members of the cabbage family, are yet quite unique in
appearance,
and I think worthy of a place in the flower garden. It is propagated
both by seed and by cuttings of the roots, having the rows three feet
apart, and the plants three feet apart in the rows. It is difficult to
get the seeds to vegetate. Plant seed in April and May. The ground
should be richly manured, and deeply and thoroughly worked. It is
blanched before using. In cooking it it requires to be very thoroughly
boiled, after which it is served up in melted butter and toasted
bread.
The sea-kale is highly prized in England; but thus far its cultivation
in this country has been very limited.

The ~Borecole~, or common kale, is of the cabbage family, but is

characterized by not heading like the cabbage or producing eatable
flowers like the cauliflower and broccoli. The varieties are very
numerous, some of them growing very large and coarse, suitable only as
food for stock; others are exceedingly finely curled, and excellent
for
table use; while others in their color and structure are highly
ornamental. They are annual, biennial, and perennial. They do not
require so strong a soil or such high manuring as other varieties of
the
cabbage family.

The varieties are almost endless; some of the best in cultivation for
table use are the DWARF SCOTCH, DWARF GREEN CURLED or GERMAN GREENS,
TALL GREEN CURLED, PURPLE BORECOLE, and the variegated kales. The
crown
of the plant is used as greens, or as an ingredient in soups. The
kales
are very hardy, and the dwarf varieties, with but little protection,
can
be kept in the North well into the winter in the open ground. Plant
and
cultivate like Savoy cabbage.

The variegated sorts, with their fine curled leaves of a rich purple,
green, red, white, or yellow color, are very pleasing in their
effects,
and form a striking and attractive feature when planted in clumps in
the
flower garden, particularly is this so because their extreme hardiness
leaves them in full vigor after the cold has destroyed all other
plants--some of the richest colors are developed along the veins of
the
uppermost leaves after the plant has nearly finished its growth for
the
season. The JERSEY COW KALE grows to from three to six feet in
height and yields a great body of green food for stock; have the rows
about three feet apart, and the plants two to three feet distant in
the
rows. In several instances my customers have written me that this kale
raised for stock feed has given them great satisfaction.

The THOUSAND-HEADED KALE is a tall variety sending out numerous

side shoots, whence the name.

* * * * *

SQUASHES:

HOW TO GROW THEM.

PRICE, 30 CENTS, BY MAIL.

This treatise is amply illustrated, and gives full particulars on

every
point, including keeping and marketing the crop.

* * * * *

FERTILIZERS:

WHERE THE MATERIALS COME FROM; HOW TO GET THEM IN THE CHEAPEST FORM;
HOW
TO MAKE OUR OWN FERTILIZERS.

In this work there will be found many valuable tables, with many
suggestions, and much information on the purchase of materials, the
combining of them, and the use of the fertilizers made from them. I
believe it will give a good return to any of my customers, for his
outlay. The treatise makes a book of 116 pages.

PRICE, BY MAIL, 40 CENTS.

CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS:

_HOW TO GROW THEM_.

A PRACTICAL TREATISE, GIVING FULL DETAILS ON EVERY POINT, INCLUDING

KEEPING AND MARKETING THE CROP.

BY

JAMES J. H. GREGORY, AUTHOR OF WORKS ON SQUASH RAISING, ONION RAISING,

ETC., ETC.

BOSTON: CASHMAN, KEATING & CO., PRINTERS, 1889.

* * * * *

ONION RAISING:

WHAT KINDS TO RAISE

AND
THE WAY TO RAISE THEM.

BY

JAMES J. H. GREGORY,
SEED GROWER AND DEALER,
MARBLEHEAD, MASS.

This work has been warmly recommended by some of the best authorities
in
the country, and has gone through fourteen editions. It gives the
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A NEW TREATISE.

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WHAT KIND TO RAISE:

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This treatise presents, in minutest detail, every step of progress,
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planting the seed to the matured crop.

BY

JAMES J. H. GREGORY,
MARBLEHEAD, MASS.

PRICE, BY MAIL, 30 CENTS.

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Health benefits of cabbage

    By MakG on May 24, 2013
(1 votes, average: 5.00 out of 5)






Cabbage (Brassica oleracea) is really a veggie which belongs to the Brassica or even
cruciferous family, that also consists of broccoli, kale, cauliflower as well as brussels
sprouts. This particular veggie can easily develop in almost any kinds of soil yet develops
particularly well within rich soils – a lot more fertile the soil, the quicker the cabbage
develops. Cabbage is probably the earliest veggie plants and is also considered to be
originated from Asia and also the Mediterranean. Right now, cabbage is most likely just
about the most broadly grown plants throughout the world both in exotic as well as
semitropical areas. Roughly 400 types of cabbage around the world different in form (from
round to conical), size (from 4 to 8 inches) as well as color (green, white, red, and purple
leaves). The most typical is definitely the spherical, light green variety.

Cabbage is definitely an affordable as well as adaptable veggie which is simple to find in

almost any grocery store also it provides you with an enormous nutrients and vitamins. This
particular veggie could be consumed cooked or even raw, however it usually included with
soups or even stews. In Germany, cabbage is actually pickle in vinegar as well as offered
as Sauerkraut. Aside from being utilized in number of dishes, Cabbage is additionally offers
numerous health advantages. In reality, cabbage is abundant with numerous nutrients as
well as vitamins just like vitamin A, C & K. All of these are natural anti-oxidants that really
help avoid cancer as well as cardiovascular disease causing free-radicals.

Health benefits of cabbage

Cabbage is yet another excellent source of dietary fiber, supplying almost 15 % of every
day suggested dietary consumption. Fiber is essential to ensure the body’s digestive tract
is working at ideal level. Several positive health advantages of cabbage are as presented
beneath:

1. Prevents Cancer

From acne remedy to decreasing the chance of cancer, cabbage has lots of dietary
advantages. Chemical substances just like indole-3-carbinol as well as sulphoraphane
behave as anti-oxidants, producing cabbage for cancer research important. In reality,
research has shown that these particular anti-cancer qualities might help reduce the
chance of cancer of the breast in females. An additional research implies the lower chance
of lung cancer among those who include cabbage within their daily diet. Glucosinolates
within cabbage might also prevent bladder, colon, as well as prostate cancer. An additional
phytonutrient, particularly in red cabbages, known as anthocyanin polyphenols (this is
exactly what provides red cabbage its radiant color) could also supply anti-inflammatory as
well as anti-cancer qualities. Various other advantages consist of lower calories in
cabbage. Along with 22 calories within raw green cabbage (per cup serving) as well as 28
calories in red cabbage (per cup serving), this veggie offers important minerals and
vitamins, soluble fiber, antioxidant properties and much more. Braising, boiling, steaming,
or even light stir fry or perhaps sauté ways of cooking might help offer all of the anti-cancer
qualities of cabbage without adding to your pounds. In reality the fermentation procedure
for cabbage in recipes just like German sauerkraut may possibly create a higher level of
anti-cancer ingredients.

2. Treat peptic ulcers

Cabbage is probably the best natural treatments for stomach ulcers (known as peptic
ulcers). An investigation in the Stanford University School of Medicine discovered that fresh
cabbage juice is extremely efficient at dealing with peptic ulcers. The anti-ulcer qualities of
cabbage are caused by the high glutamine content within it.

3. Anti-inflammatory properties

Cabbage is great method of obtaining the amino acid glutamine and is also thought to
assist those people who are struggling with any kind of swelling.
4. Boosts immune system

Because of its large quantities of Vitamin C, cabbage assists improve the Defense
mechanisms as well as assist the body combat free-radicals.

5. Prevent cataract risk

Cabbage is additionally loaded with beta-carotene which will help prevent age-related
macular deterioration and stop cataracts.

6. Cabbage for Weight Loss

Cabbage for losing weight is sensible whenever you recognize that this particular low-
calorie, low-fat veggie consists of plenty of nutrition just like vitamins A, B, C and K.
Important minerals within raw cabbage consist of small quantities of calcium, iron as well as
zinc in addition to quite a lot of magnesium, phosphorus as well as potassium. In addition,
consuming cabbage to lose weight guarantees sufficient quantities of dietary fiber, which
supports people, remain satiated for extended. Fiber additionally assures an excellent
digestive system as well as elevated metabolic rate. A single serving consists of between
15 to 22 calories within raw cabbage. Calories within red cabbage may possibly range
between 25 to 28 calories per cup offering. This number can vary dependent on how you
want to cook your cabbage. Whilst raw cabbage diet for weight reduction may possibly
suggest lots of salads as well as uncooked sides, it really is good to cook the cabbage to
break down the cell wall, producing its cabbage nutrient bioavailable. Furthermore, cooking
raw cabbage makes sure that bacteria and germs in fresh produce usually are ruined.
Braised or even boiled cabbage to lose weight might help since you utilize hardly any oil;
however, you don’t have to give up taste to lose weight. Cabbage is an extremely flexible
veggie and perhaps ingested lightly sautéed, stir fried along with other veggies, in soups
and so forth. You have to look out for the spices and also oil.  Do not overcook cabbage
when you perhaps left with limp, unpalatable dish minus its nutritional advantages.
Numerous cabbage diets enable you to stick to a organized guide to weight reduction.
Having said that following a individual vegetable diet (regardless of how much cabbage you
might be permitted to consume) wouldn’t supply you with a wide selection of nutrition
required for the body. Make sure that you take in a sufficient percentage of different types
of veggies, fruits, lean meat, poultry and dairy. Speak to your physician regarding your
particular situation and when a cabbage weight loss program matches your needs.

7. Reduce the risk of Alzheimer’s disease

Reserach has proven that consuming red cabbage may possibly prevent Alzheimer’s
disease. Red cabbage consists of vitamin K as well as anthocyanin, an anti-oxidant to
assist decreases plaque within the brain, therefore might help avoid Alzheimer’s disease.

8. Relieve constipation

The high fiber content within cabbage assists promote the digestive system, and therefore
alleviating bowel problems.
9. Avoid Skin Disorders

Individuals struggling with skin disorders just like acne, eczema or even psoriasis could find
relief along with natural treatments utilizing cabbage. In reality, Greek as well as Roman
soldiers usually used cabbage benefits for the skin. They utilized cabbage leaves to cover
injuries as well as bruises. The anti-oxidants in cabbage might have supplied both cooling
relief as well as fast performing healing qualities. This is exactly what makes cabbage for
acne alleviation such an effective home cure. Numerous people who suffer declare that
boiling the leaves of cabbage within water, chilling it after which using on impacted areas
protects mild acne breakouts difficulties. The vegetable behaves as a cleaning agent for
greasy skin. Cabbage might also consist of anti-bacterial qualities which go deep in the
pores to battle acne-causing germs. Furthermore, ingesting cabbage in your daily diet will
assist you to obtain apparent, glowing skin. Anti-aging qualities of cabbage, consists of
vitamins B and C, that safeguard skin, hair as well as eyes. It may also help to detox the
body, which might assist you to obtain glowing, healthy looking skin. Furthermore, you don’t
have to bother with the calories in cabbage. At 22 calories per cup of raw cabbage, it is just
a excellent weight reduction food. Calories within red cabbage ring in at 28 calories, also it
consists of two times the quantity of effective anti-oxidants as green cabbage. Cabbage for
eczema might also be successful at offering rest from skin irritation as well as redness, the
signs of this skin ailment. Make use of the external leaves of cabbage and be sure that you
simply clean them below cool water completely. Gently pulp the inner side of the leaves to
collapse nutrition as well as release juices. Apply like a wrap on impacted areas for calming
relief. Many people also declare an enormous enhancement within their situation by
consuming an 8-ounce glass of cabbage juice every day. Cabbage for skin psoriasis
perhaps utilized in an identical fashion. Whether you utilize it as a a topical application or
even include it in the form of soup, salad or even regular meals, cabbage for psoriasis may
give a effective herbal treatment.

10. Relieve muscle soreness

Cabbage consists of lactic acid that recognized to assist alleviate muscles tenderness.

11. Mastitis

Mastitis, most often happens in breast feeding women, even though some ladies are
affected from this situation outside of the lactation period too. In mastitis (postpartum), skin
cracks or even skin tissue break down may possibly let entry of bacteria from the mouth of
the breast-feeding baby or even common atmosphere. Since the infection advances,
women are affected from pain within the chest region, inflammation, irritation, redness or
even soreness along with a warm feeling within the infected region. Various other signs and
symptoms consist of fever, bodily tiredness, pain of the breasts as well as lack of ability to
carry on breast-feeding. Cabbage leaves for mastitis offer an efficient herbal treatment in
the form of topical use. The immune improving qualities of raw cabbage leaves whenever
utilized like a wrap or even bandage round the infected breast, may possibly offer calming
relief as well as behave as a remedy for the bacterial infection. You might utilize cleaned as
well as pat dried cabbage leaves around the affected region, when you are relaxing or
perhaps in between feeds. You may also utilize chilled cabbage leaves as cold compress to
empty out the infection. You might carry on nursing despite struggling with mastitis. In
reality, it is very important drain milk through the breasts. While many experts recommend
utilizing cabbage leaves as topical therapy for mastitis, you may even acquire supplemental
advantages of eating cabbage nutrients. Along with a lot less than 22 calories within raw
green cabbage (per cup serving) as well as 28 calories in red cabbage (per cup serving),
this particular veggie is capable of becoming a weight reduction food items, avoiding
cancer and also combating acne.

12. Decrease Cholesterol level

Much less calories within cabbage allow it to be a fantastic option for managing cholesterol
levels or even decreasing the chance of cholesterol levels within people with previous the
problem. Whilst calories in red cabbage might be somewhat greater, people may possibly
include a wide selection of cruciferous veggies just like green and also red cabbage, savoy
cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts and so forth to get all of the nutritional benefits.
Cabbage for cholesterol levels health is especially advantageous in case you cook it via the
steaming method. In case you overcook cabbage simply by boiling it you stand to lose all of
the nutrient value, simultaneously raw cabbage may possibly pose threats because of
germs or even bacteria. To support the nutritional value of cabbage for cholesterol levels,
you might steam it, gently sauté or even stir fry along with other vegetables or perhaps
combine it with your soups or even main course. Cabbage really helps to detox the body as
well as cleanse your digestive system. This further allows much better cholesterol
management.

13. Diabetics

Lower in calories as well as sodium, loaded with soluble fiber along with the lowest
glycemic index, cabbage for diabetes sufferers appears a normal choice in fresh produce.
A minimal glycemic index signifies how quickly or even slow particular foods impact the
blood sugar level. In the matter of both green and also red cabbage, they’re a low glycemic
index food that features an optimistic effect on individuals struggling with diabetic issues.
Apart from, cabbage for diabetes sufferers is important for the vitamins, minerals, amino
acids as well as dietary fiber it offers. Furthermore, for people attempting to sustain weight
reduction, the low calories in cabbage turn it into a pre-requisite in almost any meal.
Calories in red cabbage perhaps somewhat greater than green cabbage, however,
particular nutrients in red cabbage possibly slightly higher too. Red cabbage includes
antioxidants, which might have got anticancer qualities.  Furthermore, Vitamin K in cabbage
for diabetic issues can help elderly people, who require an additional helping of veggies
along with Vitamin K that can help in blood clotting.

14. During Pregnancy

With a considerable availability of important minerals and vitamins, cabbage for expecting
mothers as well as fetus is very important. Low calories in cabbage allow ladies to keep
bodyweight while pregnant. Even calories in red cabbage differ in between 25 to 28
calories per cup offering. This particular low calorie, lower glycemic index food might help
prevent gestational diabetes. A cabbage while pregnant may also be helpful encourages
better digestive health and improves bowel movement in females struggling with
constipation. Dietary fiber within cabbage assists enhances digestion of food as well as
overall metabolic process. Cabbage also includes important foliates, which are essential for
DNA health of the baby.

15. Heart Disease

You may depend on cabbage to supply your coronary heart along with beneficial support
by means of cholesterol decrease. Cabbage gives you cholesterol-lowering advantage
whether it’s raw or even cooked however it is strongly suggested to eat steamed cabbage
because of its greatest cholesterol-lowering effect. Cabbage helps prevent bile from
soaking up fat after the meal, that reduces the entire quantity of cholesterol within the body.

16. Cures Obesity

Cabbage is really a abundant method of obtaining tartronic acid. This particular acid
changes excessive fat and sugar in body of a human. In a way it regulates carbohydrates
as well as fat. Therefore, it might be the very best weight loss agent. Weight reduction,
therefore, becomes just one more health advantage of cabbage.

17. Maintaining process of gastric

Cabbage is probably the very best natural treatments for irritation of the stomach (called
gastric ulcers). A survey at Stanford University School of Medicine discovered that fresh
cabbage juice is incredibly good at dealing with peptic ulcers. Anti-inflammatory qualities of
cabbage are because of a higher content of glutamine within it.

18. Boost energy

Since the vitamin B is digested by the body, you’ll get a natural hit of energy. It’s time for
you to achieve more and revel in life like there’s no tomorrow.

Cabbage is actually super-powerful, and could be equated to the warehouse of nutrition. It

has the capability to do a world of great for the body. You can eat cabbage, regardless of
whether in salads as well as soups; however a simpler method is with juicing.

Cabbage goes excellent along with apple as well as spinach, and also juicing is a superb
method to go through the health advantages of cabbage in targeted form.

19. Relieve muscle soreness

This really is one for you gym-junkies. All of those sore muscles after the heavy workout
could be treated along with cabbage. It does this by providing you a excellent supply of
lactic acid that disinfects the colon as well as stimulates you.

20. Slow aging

Cabbage is packed with vitamin C as well as beta-carotene (originates from vitamin A), that
makes one of many health advantages of cabbage a potential to deal with aging. If you’d
rather appear younger for extended (that is virtually everyone), try to take in a lot more
cabbage.

21. Lower serum cholesterol

The mixture of good as well as bad cholesterol within your body is recognized as serum
cholesterol. Anytime it’s in a higher level, you’re naturally in a greater risk of heart-related
illness. Fortunately, doctors think another of the health advantages of cabbage is its
capability to reduce serum cholesterol.

22. Breast engorgement

Remove the surface layers of cabbage, run it somewhat underneath the rolling pin as well
as cap it within the breasts as near to the skin as you possibly can, to assuage breasts
engorgement. Wear your maternal brassiere within the cabbage and then leave up until the
cabbage leaves die. It is found to be somewhat calming, preferred all-natural as well as
less expensive option over taking drugs.

More about Cabbage

Cabbage is actually a veggie which thrives whenever developed nearly all over the world
and is also abundant with nutrition. Because of this, cabbage is really a preference food
items in numerous underdeveloped nations as well as isused just like the way rice is
utilized. Whilst cabbage just isn’t well-known in america, with the exception of cole slaw,
cabbage needs to be provided much more consideration by individuals who wish to gain a
healthy diet. It should be pointed out that while cabbage is healthy, the other components
of cole slaw turn it into an inadequate food, particularly because of the trans fats utilized in
mayonnaise. There’s a wide selection of typical nutrition present in cabbage with some
rather distinctive ingredients which makes cabbage worth which includes in your weekly
shopping list. Whilst filled with minerals and vitamins, cabbage like most veggies, doesn’t
have fat and just about 15 calories for the large offering.

Cabbage is packed with vitamin A. whilst carrots get top honors for offering this particular
vitamin, there are lots of vegetables and fruit which includes cabbage which have
significant levels. Vitamin A is a crucial vitamin since it is necessary for appropriate
eyesight, particularly night time vision. Vitamin A can also be essential for appropriate skin
health.

History of Cabbage

One of several earliest recognized veggies, the cabbage appears to always have been
along with us.  It grew both East and West, although the earlier cabbage would be a weedy,
loose-leafed plant.  The firm head that we believe today was obviously a later development,
most intently like kale, in which it is associated. It was known as wild cabbage, and is also
still known as sea cabbage from the French. Within the East, pots that contain cabbage
which date back to 4,000 B.C. have been discovered in Shensi province in China.  North
China is among the most unique home of Chinese cabbage.  To the traditional Chinese, it
absolutely was regarded as a ‘cooling’ food within the yin and yang construct.  Cabbage is
preferred for pickling and is also regarded as ts’ai or even appropriate to go over rice. The
pickled cabbage referred to as Kim Chee is really a staple all through Korea. In the western
world, we hear of cabbage very first from Greek fable also it provides for us perception to
the excellent story-telling capabilities of the Greeks.  The simple fact, one recognized to the
Greeks, is always that grape vines, method to obtain wine, usually do not thrive whenever
cultivated near cabbage. The Greeks transformed this particular agricultural knowledge to
myth. along with apologies for abbreviation, the myth told of the god of wine, Dionysus, who
came to Thrace combined with his loyal followers, the Bacchae.  Thrace was the region of
one Lycurgus. Confronted by Dionysus arrival, Lycurgus captured both Dionysus and all
sorts of Bacchae.  To revenge this process, Dionysus had Lycurgus driven mad.  Not in the
right mine, Lycurgus mistook his son for the vine as well as cut his son to pieces.
Understanding what he’d done, Lycurgus wept, and through the tears that fell to the floor
sprang cabbage.

Further proof of cabbage and its particular capabilities are discovered from the tale of
Diogenes, most well-known for his unproductive look for a genuine man.  Diogenes was
handed to eating cabbage like a health benefit. Conversing with a foolish young courtier of
the Hedonist school, one provided to flattery of the rich, Diogenes recommended the young
man, “If you lived in cabbage, you wouldn’t need to flatter the powerful.”  For this, the
courtier responded, “If you flattered the powerful, you wouldn’t need to survive on cabbage.
“   We will never take philosophical sides within this debate, however, we’ll take note that
Diogenes resided to be 90, quite old in almost any age, whilst his Hedonist friend departed
from his earthly pleasures at the age of 40.

In Rome, both Cato and Pliny extolled the virtues of cabbage.  Cato, who resided to be 80,
thought it ought to be consumed raw along with vinegar, certainly a a precursor to
coleslaw.  Pliny had much to say on cabbage.  In his work, Natural History, he describes
cabbage beneath the classification ‘Materia Medica’, concentrating on its therapeutic
characteristics whenever taken internally and whenever utilized like a poultice.

Early Uses of Cabbage

In spite of Greek misconception despite cabbage’s on the shores of the Mediterranean,

cabbage develops very best in cooler environments.  Medieval records that inform us that
cabbage was often discovered bubbling in the cauldron along with whatever meats were
accessible. Although we do not know when the head cabbage produced, we do realize that
the Savoy cabbage was one of the variety of dishes brought to the French by Catherine de
Medici who arrived from Florence in 1533 to wed the heir to the French throne

If language could be our guide, the Dutch could possibly be the originators of coleslaw: kool
signifies cabbage as well as sla means salad.  The borders of Europe have moved over
time, however the cabbage is documented like a well-known veggie in Russia, Germany,
Poland as well as Hungary as you may know them today.  It is really a addition among the
Irish, and one finds it nearly surprising to find out an earlier Irish recipe for colcannon, the
classic potato as well as cabbage dish, created using today’s kale.

Cabbage gives to pickling and one individual preferred uses of cabbage is sauerkraut.  The
Germans additionally made this and also the term “kraut’ derives through the German-
Americans usage of sauerkraut. Choucroute is French sauerkraut, the most common dish
being Choucroute garni a la Alsacienne. The French land referred to as Alsace presently is
owned by France yet features a history which has seen the area tossed backwards and
forwards in between Germany and France. In this region, choucroute just isn’t simply a
garnish for hot dogs and is also made without vinegar.  Choucroute garni needs cleaning
the sauerkraut that in France eliminates a few of the salt, however in the US eliminates
vinegar.  It is not possible to eliminate the vinegar that has soaked in the leaves, as well as
our choucroute garni can’t ever be genuine.

Types of cabbage

Regardless of what type you purchase, search for cabbage heads which feel heavy
because of their size as well as, aside from Napa cabbage, have got firmly packed leaves.
When you do not want injured or even beaten up veggies, you may remove as well as
discard the external leaves, so that they must not be perfect. Listed here are numerous
types of cabbage

1. Spring Cabbage

Spring cabbages are generally planted in July and August being

grown in September and October to overwinter and be collected from late February right
through to the start of June. In breezy locations, earth up round the stem as well as reduce
the soil together with your foot to guarantee the plants are steady and do not endure root
rock. They have a tendency to be conical in form as well as quite loose leaved, also known
as spring greens or even collards.

2. Summer Cabbage
 Generally these types of are ball headed (drumhead) planted from
mid-February below glass to mid-May being planted in May and June to supply a harvest
from late June to November even though more usually August and September are
definitely the prime cropping months.

Most are usually spherical in form even though the Greyhound as well as Hispi types are
conical just like spring cabbages.

For the initial crop, plant earlier – certainly!

3. Winter Cabbage

The winter cabbages are usually planted at the end of April through
May, being grown in July to supply a harvest from November right through to March. They
are ball or even drum-headed and clearly sturdy.

Several types will store for months, cut the head and take away external loose leaves (bet
you discover a slug!) then store within a cool dark location, ideally on slatted shelves to
allow for air flow. White types are perfect for coleslaw and all sorts of can make sauerkraut.

4. Savoy Cabbage

The savoy kind of cabbage is actually a ball head however the

foliage is crinkled instead tan smooth. Seeding as well as planting are similar to winter
cabbages besides the cutting season is commonly just a little broader.
Several faster maturing types are prepared as soon as September plus some holds in the
earth till the start of April many individuals like the consistency of savoy cabbages to
smooth ones.

5. Red Cabbage

Red cabbage is actually a conventional for pickling however it is

perfect for including colour to the winter salad whenever shredded carefully as well as
cooked it adds colour in addition to taste to the meal.

Develop similar to a summer cabbage, seeding in April, planting in June as well as crop in
September. They’ll hold a little while in the ground or even could be saved for a couple of
months.

6. Chinese Cabbage

Chinese cabbage, popularly known as Chinese leaves in grocery

stores are definitely the unusual one in the cabbage family. They appear a lot more like a
cos lettuce than the usual cabbage firstly.

The cultivation technique is totally different as compared to traditional cabbage too, they
don’t like root disruption and often could be planted in situ instead of being replanted.

 
7. Oxheart Cabbage

Oxheart cabbage is really a headed cabbage along with a smaller

sized relative of the white cabbage, however with a conical shape. Oxheart cabbage is
much more succulent plus more effortlessly digestible and is also ideal for producing
sauerkraut. In contrast to savoy cabbage, red and white cabbage, oxheart cabbage isn’t a
winter vegetable. It is just a fresh summer veggie along with a source of vitamin C
(enhances the manufacture of red blood cells), proteins (the building blocks of the body) as
well as calcium for robust bones.

8. White Cabbage

White cabbage is probably the family of headed cabbages. This

really is one of many earliest groups of veggie plants, and also emanates from Asia Minor
and also the Mediterranean. White cabbage, just like red cabbage, was usually extremely
popular in the regions due to its simple and easy , effective farming. Additionally, these
types of cabbages could be kept well, that was necessary for the common individuals till
the middle Twentieth century. Nevertheless, for a long period white cabbage was evidently
not an essential section of people’s diets in East Flanders and West Flanders. Individuals
believed the white cabbage was bland, and also the leaves were usually utilized as food for
animals. From the Nineteenth century, individuals in Germany ingested “Sauerkraut” on the
extensive, that was prepared from large white cabbages received from the Alsace. This
particular dish didn’t become recognized in the regions till the Twentieth century. White
cabbages are just grown in the open.

9. Napa Cabbage
 A typical kind of cabbage that delivers a light taste for numerous
salad as well as vegetable dishes. Loaded with Vitamin C, this particular cabbage is mainly
cultivated in Asia and also the United States, primarily in California and Hawaii, exactly
where it could be cultivated year-round. There are two types available to buy, the “chef”
variety and also the “Chihili” variety. The chef variety features a taller, more compact, head
with lots of pale green-colored leaves. This particular variety can also be found titled “Tokyo
Giant”, “Tropical Pride”, or even “wintertime”.

10. Brussels Sprouts

A vegetable along with tiny, lustrous, compact buds which is

spherical as well as green and is also generally not more than 2-inches in diameter. It
seems as well as tastes just like a small cabbage. It really is titled after their location of
origins, Brussels, Belgium. Normally the smaller sprouts are the best flavored ones.

11. Green Cabbage

Basic. Solid. Small. Long-lasting. Green cabbage is definitely the

Toyota (or Honda!) of cabbages. Utilize it in salads as well as slaw  stir-fry it, or even long-
cook it to bring out its important sweet nature. Search for heads which feel heavy because
of their size (which could vary from softball to just about basketball size), along with tightly
crammed, moist looking leaves. The queen of slaw  green cabbage can endure even
largest, creamiest, or even spiciest of dressings.

12. Bok Choy

Bok Choy (and its particular youthful buddy, baby Bok Choy) has
unique leaves growing from the central stalk. It seems a fair amount just like Swiss chard
however with pale green stalks and leaves. It features a mild yet vibrant cabbage-y flavor.
Bok Choy is frequently utilized in stir-frys, but braising also brings about its fairly sweet
taste. Baby bok choy could be cooked entire, if you want, yet all bok choy is probably at its
best as soon as the leaves are divided as well as cooked loose.

13. Earliana Cabbage

Heads typical 5 inches across as well as weigh about 2 pounds,

great taste, completely ready within 2 months right after re-planting, mild green outside as
well as creamy white on the inside.

 
 

14. Orient Express Cabbage

This particular Chinese cabbage variety develops in 45 days from

seed; little heads average 1 1/2 pounds, thick center along with dark green external leaves,
peppery as well as fairly sweet flavor, and great crisp consistency.

15. King Slaw Cabbage

This huge variety averages 15 pounds, completely ready in 105

days from seed, big blue/green outer leaves, rich and creamy white heart is thick, light
taste.

16. Salad Delight Cabbage

 This specific red cabbage develops in 50 days soon after re-
planting, heads are maroon colored as well as average 3 pounds, and inside is thick and
nearly purple in color along with unique white ribs all through, sweet as well as peppery
taste.

17. Early Flat Dutch Cabbage

 This particular variety attributes light green outer leaves along with
a creamy white center, heads average 8 pounds, completely ready in 80 days just after re-
planting, dense heads tend to be more flat as compared to some other types.

18. Early Jersey Wakefield Cabbage

This particular variety develops in 70 days soon after re-planting,

heads average 3 pounds, dark green outer leaves along with a light colored center, head is
nearly cone shaped as well as dense featuring a sugary taste, holds well for a few weeks
within the plant soon after maturation.

19. Golden Cross Cabbage

This kind of cabbage variety develops in 45 days just after re-

planting, little green heads average 2 pounds and therefore are about the dimensions of a
softball, moderate green outer leaves along with a creamy white center, heads are limited
as well as well-formed, fairly sweet taste.

20. Stone head Cabbage

This particular variety features extremely dense heads, light green

external leaves as well as creamy white center, holds well on plant for a few weeks, circular
heads average 3 1/2 pounds, develops in 50 days after re-planting, sweet and also peppery
taste.

 
21. Pusa Drumhead Cabbage

Late season variety. The heads usually are large, flat, and
relatively loose as well as drum shaped. Every head weighs 3-5 kg. External leaves are
mild green along with notable mid-rib. Demands long winter for the great crop, resistant to
black leg disease. Typical yield is 50-54 t/ha.

22. Golden Acre Cabbage

Early growing variety along with tiny round heads, color of the

leaves is light green externally as well as dark green from inside. Individual head weighing
1-1.5 kg, harvested inside 60-65 days after re-planting. Late harvesting results in heads
cracking. Typical yield is 20-24 t/ha.

23. September Early Cabbage

Mid-season variety well-known within the Nilgiris, head is small, flat-oblong along with
bluish green foliage, weighing 4-6 kg.  Harvested within just 105-110 days immediately
after re-planting. It really is susceptible to black rot disease. Typical yield is 40-50 t/ha. 
This particular variety could be saved in the field once they are ready for harvest and don’t
show breaking.
24. Two Seasons Cabbage

This kind of Chinese variety is oblong in form, averaging 10 inches tall and seven inches
across, thick leafy center is creamy yellow, light green external leaves, develops in
approximately 65 days soon after re-planting, sweet as well as tangy taste.

Nutritional Value & Calories In Cabbage

Amount: 1 Cabbage

Total Weight: 100 g

Nutrients Amount
Basic Components
Ash 0.8
Proteins 1.2 g
Water 95.32
Calories
Calories From Carbohydrates 20
Calories From Fats 1.3
Calories From Proteins 3
Total Calories 24
Carbohydrates
Dietary Fiber 2.4 g
Fructose 1.5 g
Glucose 1.7 g
Maltose 10 mg
Sucrose 80 mg
Sugar 3.2 g
Total Carbohydrates 5.5 g
Fats & Fatty Acids
Monounsaturated Fat 14 mg
Omega-3 Fatty Acids 31 mg
Omega-6 Fatty Acids 29 mg
Polyunsaturated Fat 64 mg
Saturated Fat 27 mg
Total Fat 153 mg
Vitamins
Folate 52 mcg
Niacin 278 mcg
Panto Acid 164 mcg
Riboflavin 33 mcg
Thiamin 54 mcg
Vitamin A 117 IU
Vitamin C 43 mg
Vitamin E 150 mcg
Vitamin K 76 mcg
Minerals
Calcium 45 mg
Copper 22 mcg
Fluoride 1 mcg
Iron 530 mcg
Magnesium 14 mg
Manganese 159 mcg
Phosphorus 24 mg
Potassium 221 mg
Selenium 0.7 mcg
Sodium 18 mg
Zinc 180 mcg

Cabbage Selection

Almost all types of cabbage can be obtained year-round in many markets. They weigh in
from one to seven pounds. Cabbage heads needs to be big and compact (not fluffy), heavy
because of their size, along with soft green leaves displaying no proof of damage or even
insect nibbles.

Fresh cabbages have a nice quantity of wrapper (outer) leaves. Greengrocers will display
wilted outer leaves since the cabbage ages. Look into the bottom of the cabbage so that
the foliage is not starting to apart from the stem, a sign of aging.

The Savoy cabbage variety won’t feel as heavy as regular types, since the leaves are much
less firmly furled.

Cabbage Storage

Keep the whole head of cabbage within a plastic bag within the fridge for approximately a
week, a couple weeks when it is fresh from the garden. But don’t forget, the older it will get,
the stronger the taste as well as odor will probably be. The looser-leaved Savoy variety
needs to be utilized in just a couple of days.

Cabbage will miss freshness quickly as soon as the head is sliced, therefore intend on
utilizing it in a day. In case you just have half a head, put the remaining half within a plastic
bag as well as shake a couple of drops of water on the cut side. Close the bag as well as
refrigerate. The cut half need to last an additional few days if this was pretty fresh
whenever you slice it.

To freeze cabbage: Reduce rough shreds as well as blanch for 2 minutes within boiling
water. Eliminate, drain, as well as chill. Pack into air-tight storage containers as well as
freeze as much as one full year. Once thawed out, frozen cabbage will simply work nicely
in cooked applications.

Canned sauerkraut needs to be utilized inside of 6 months. Fresh sauerkraut from the
market needs to be utilized within just 1 week.
Cooked cabbage might be chilled in the protected container for approximately four days.

Consumption Tips

When purchasing cabbage, select the smaller sized variety, they taste far better.

Cabbage is simpler to absorb in the raw fresh type compared to when cooked. The more
time it is cooked, the less digestible it might be. Cabbage sprouts are usually fragile and
simpler to absorb, and in addition they consist of greater amounts of nutrition.

Prevent purchasing precut cabbage which are possibly halved or even shredded. As soon
as the cabbage is slice, it starts to lose its nutritional contents. To save, keep the veggie
refrigerated in the punctured plastic bag to avoid loss in its vitamin C.

Drawbacks of cabbage

Cabbage belongs to the cruciferous veggie family and offers an array of nutrition, which
includes fiber, foliate, calcium, potassium as well as vitamins A, C and K. Cabbage consists
of nutrients which behave as anti-oxidants to tear down chance of particular cancers.
However, consuming large volumes of cabbage may cause disadvantage effects, just like
unwanted gas, looseness of the bowels, medication interactions as well as thyroid
problems.

1. Flatulence

Cabbage consists of substantial amount of raffinose, an indigestible sugar. This particular

sugar is a kind of complicated carbohydrate which goes through your intestines undigested
and may result in unwanted gas. Various other signs and symptoms related to flatulence
that could result after consuming cabbage consist of burping, stomach pain as well as
bloatedness.

2. Diarrhea

Green cabbage consists of 5.8 grams of fiber for each 1-cup serving, reviews Michigan
State University. The insoluble fiber in cabbage boosts the motion of waste within your
digestive system. Consuming too much fiber can easily give rise to the signs of diarrhea or
even obstruct your intestines. Furthermore, people going through cancer therapy might
need to avoid eating cabbage, since this veggie can easily worsen diarrhea frequently
brought on by chemotherapy. Talk to your managing doctor regarding cabbage usage in
case you are going through this kind of therapy.

3. Medication Interaction

Cabbage consists of higher quantities of vitamin K, a vitamin that can help your blood clot.
Consuming too much cabbage can easily restrict blood-thinning medicines, yet a 2-cup
serving of green cabbage should help in offering the preferred quantity of vitamin K without
causing unwanted effects. The suggested every day allocation of vitamin K is actually 120
micrograms for guys and 90 micrograms for women, reviews the University of Maryland
Medical Center. A single serving of green cabbage consists of 53 micrograms of vitamin K,
whilst the same serving of red cabbage consists of 34 micrograms. In accordance with the
University of Michigan Health System, ingesting a regular amount of food items loaded with
vitamin K as well as restricting your vitamin K consumption to the suggested daily allocation
can help in avoiding dangerous interactions. Talk to your medical doctor regarding eating
vitamin K food items in case you are having a blood-thinning medicine.

4. Hypothyroidism

Ingesting higher amount of cabbage may cause thyroid problems, in accordance with Linus
Pauling Institute. Iodine insufficiency in conjunction with higher usage of cabbage, just like
1,000 to 1,500 grams each day, can lead to deficiencies in thyroid hormone. Glucosinolates
are substances that contains sulfur as well as nitrogen which occur generously in cabbage.
Chemical responses with one of these substances may possibly hinder the creation of your
thyroid hormone or even result in the discharge of a particular ion which plays with iodine
usage. Your thyroid gland requires iodine to operate correctly. In case there are contending
procedures limiting iodine quantities, this might bring about the introduction of thyroid
problems. However, cabbage usage separate from iodine insufficiency doesn’t enhance
your chance of hypothyroidism, reports Linus Pauling Institute.

Glory of Enkhuizen

Introduced in 1899 by Sluis & Groot in Enkhuizen, Holland, this cabbage has medium
to large round heads. An early, excellent-keeping variety that is a good producer and
good for sauerkraut. (90 days)

Planting Instructions:
Start seeds for transplants 4 to 6 weeks prior to desired transplanting date. Seedlings
need bright artificial light or full sun; in early spring, a cold frame is ideal. Seed should
be covered no deeper than one quarter inch. Grow Early Jersey Wakefield in relatively
cool conditions — no more than about 75 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, as cool as
45 degrees at night.

When the young plants have developed 2 to 4 true leaves they are ready to transplant in
the garden. Set the plants in the garden about 4 weeks before last frost date in the
spring, or about 6 weeks before first frost when fall planting. Space the plant about 24-
inches apart. Plants need good rich soil and abundant moisture to produce solid, crisp
heads. Some varieties will produce secondary heads when the main head is cut cleanly
from the stem just above ground level.

Cabbage : Glory of Enkhuizen

Medium-large round heads, keeps well, great for kraut

Introduced in 1899 by Sluis & Groot in Enkhuizen, Holland. Has medium-large, hard
round heads. An early, excellent-keeping variety that is a good producer and good for
kraut.

Brassicaceae Brassica oleracea capitata

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
This is an example of the timeline you would see based on your growing conditions.
Cabbage: Early

Glory of Enkhuizen
There are many types of cabbage based on the time of harvest. Late cabbage is usually
larger, hardier and often good for storage.
In mild winter areas cabbage is a good winter crop, planted in late summer or early
autumn. This will mature in late autumn and then stand right through the winter in good
condition. Such plants can get very big.

Basics

Ease of Growing
Moderate
Grown as
Biennial
Days to Maturity
90 (Spring/Summer), 90 (Fall/Winter)
Growing Habit
Bush
Hardiness
Hardy

Cabbages are very hardy and can be frost tolerant.

Crops
Spring Transplant, Spring, Fall Transplant, Fall
Growing Season
Short, Long
Cultivar Type
-
Growing Conditions
Cold, Cool

Start indoors 8 weeks before last frost, or outdoors March through June. Fast
growing or stressed cabbages tend to split and bolt; cutting into the root system
will slow growth and prevent splitting. Provide transplants with cutworm shield
collars.

Cabbage prefers rich, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5. Water heavily from
planting to head formation, then water moderately to prevent splitting. Cabbage
is a hardy crop, grown best in cool spring and fall temperatures.

Outdoor Growing Temp

40°F - 75°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp
40°F

If you are growing cabbage in cool weather, they should be planted in a warm
sheltered place, with full sun.

Cabbage doesn’t do well in hot weather, as it causes excessive transpiration

from the large leaves. It really needs cool weather and short days to head up
satisfactorily.

Start Indoors
 Yes
Start Outdoors
Yes
Light
Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Cold, Cool)

Fun sun or partial shade in warm climates

Water
Moderate

Cabbages need a regular water supply to grow well, so keep the soil evenly
moist. Heads may split if a heavy rain follows a long dry spell without irrigation.

Feeder
Heavy

Cabbages are hungry plants and must have rich soil if they are to produce well.
They prefer heavy soil with lots of organic matter to retain moisture and lots of
available nutrients (especially potassium and phosphorus). They don't need a lot
of nitrogen however, as this can lead to sappy growth that isn't very hardy. Early
varieties require a higher soil fertility than mid or late-season varieties.

Suitability
Tolerates light frost, Tolerates hard frost
Small Gardens?
No
Containers?
Yes

Cabbage does quite well in containers, so long as they are big enough. The ideal
container for cabbage is at least 8 inches deep and 12 inches in diameter. In
order to prevent root damage, make sure your container drains well. This can be
done by lining the bottom of your container with a layer of small stones, or by
placing holes in the bottom to ensure drainage of excess moisture. Maintain
regular watering and keep the soil moist but not soaked. When your cabbage
forms a head, gradually decrease watering to keep your heads from splitting.

Attracts beneficial insects?

No
Color
Green
Fruit Size
-"
Plant Height
8.0-12.0"
Plant Diameter
8.0-12.0"
Hardiness Zone
2-11
Disease Resistance
Taste Profile

Good for kraut

Cabbage 'Glory of Enkhuizen'

Brassica oleracea (Capitata Group)

 10 plantings
 1 available for swap
 0 wanted
 5 stashed

Add to my plant list wish list seed list

Buy Cabbage 'Glory of Enkhuizen' on Amazon

Glory of Enkhuizen is part of the Mustard genus and is a Cabbage variety. Its
scientific name is Brassica oleracea (Capitata Group) 'Glory of Enkhuizen'. Glory of
Enkhuizen is a heirloom (open pollinated) variety. An annual, so it will last but a year
in its native climate. Glory of Enkhuizen is known for its Erect habit and growing to a
height of approximately 30.0 cm (11.7 inches).

Glory of Enkhuizen Cabbage is normally quite a low maintenance plant and is normally
very easy to grow - great for beginner gardeners!

This plant info is provided by the myfolia gardener's wiki. All details about Cabbage 'Glory of
Enkhuizen' have been kindly provided by our members.

How to grow Cabbage 'Glory of Enkhuizen'

 Full Sun
 Medium

Enjoys a full sun position in your garden and remember to water moderately. Keep in
mind when planting that Glory of Enkhuizen is thought of as hardy, so this plant will
survive close to or on freezing temperatures. Glory of Enkhuizen tends to grow best in a
soil ph of between 6.0 and 7.5 meaning it does best in weakly acidic soil - weakly
alkaline soil.

Growing Glory of Enkhuizen from seed

Try to aim for a seed spacing of at least 3.12 inches (8.0 cm) and sow at a depth of
around 0.47 inches (1.2 cm). Soil temperature should be kept higher than 4°C / 39°F to
ensure good germination.

By our calculations, you should look at sowing Glory of Enkhuizen about 21 days
before your last frost date.

Transplanting Glory of Enkhuizen

Ensure that temperatures are mild and all chance of frost has passed before planting out,
as Glory of Enkhuizen is a hardy plant.

By our calculations, you should look at planting out Glory of Enkhuizen about 21 days
before your last frost date.

Harvesting Glory of Enkhuizen

Cabbage 'Glory of Enkhuizen' information

 Lifecycle The lifecycle that Glory of Enkhuizen exhibits.Annual Category The

category for the Glory of Enkhuizen plant.Vegetable
 Hardiness Is Glory of Enkhuizen frost hardy?Hardy
 Mature Height How tall does Glory of Enkhuizen grow?30.0 cm / 11.7 inches
Mature Spread How wide does Glory of Enkhuizen grow?60.0 cm / 1.95 feet
 pH Range The level of acidity for Glory of Enkhuizen.6.0 - 7.5
 Sun How much sunlight does Glory of Enkhuizen need to grow?Full Sun
 Water Requirements How much water does Glory of Enkhuizen require?
Medium Nitrogen Requirements How much nitrogen fertiliser does Glory of
Enkhuizen need?High
 Ideal Germination Temperature Range What temperatures does Glory of
Enkhuizen need in order to germinate?4°C / 39°F to 29°C / 84°F Growing
Temperatures What temperatures are best to grow Glory of Enkhuizen in?Help
build our wiki! to Help build our wiki!
 Sowing Depth How deep to plant Glory of Enkhuizen?1.2 cm / 0.47 inches
 Sowing Distance Apart How far apart to sow Glory of Enkhuizen8.0 cm / 3.12
inches
 Edible? Is Glory of Enkhuizen edible?edible


How long does Glory of Enkhuizen take to grow?

These estimates for how long Cabbage 'Glory of Enkhuizen' takes to sprout, grow and
harvest are from real observations from real gardeners, right around the world. Start
logging and journaling your observations to participate!

 Days to Germination How long does it take Glory of Enkhuizen to germinate?

17 days Average 17 days | Min days | Max days ( 0)
 Days to Transplant How long until I can plant out Glory of Enkhuizen?+ 45 days
Average 45 days | Min days | Max days ( 0)
  Days to Maturity How long until Glory of Enkhuizen is ready for harvest /
bloom?+ 60 days Average 60 days | Min days | Max days ( 0)
 Total Growing Days How long does it take to grow Glory of Enkhuizen?= 122
days

When should I sow Glory of Enkhuizen?

Folia's when to plant Cabbage 'Glory of Enkhuizen' estimates are relative to your last
frost date. Enter your frost dates and we'll calculate your sowing and planting dates for
you!

 When to sow The number of days to sow Glory of Enkhuizen before or after
your last frost date. 21 days before Last Frost Date When to plant out The
number of days to Glory of Enkhuizen before or after your last frost date. 21
days before Last Frost Date

'Sugarloaf' is a Cabbage variety in the Mustard genus with a scientific name of

Brassica oleracea (Capitata Group). This variety is an Vegetable that typically grows
as an Annual, which is defined as a plant that matures and completes its lifecycle over
the course of a single year. Sugarloaf is known for growing to a height of approximately
30.0 cm (11.7 inches).

Sugarloaf Cabbage is normally quite a low maintenance plant and is normally very easy
to grow - great for beginner gardeners!

This plant info is provided by the myfolia gardener's wiki. All details about Cabbage 'Sugarloaf'
have been kindly provided by our members.

How to grow Cabbage 'Sugarloaf'

 Full Sun

 Medium

Try to plant in a location that enjoys full sun and remember to water moderately. Keep
in mind when planting that Sugarloaf is thought of as hardy, so this plant will survive
close to or on freezing temperatures. Try to keep the ph of your soil between the range
of 6.0 and 7.5 as Sugarloaf likes to be in weakly acidic soil - weakly alkaline soil.

Growing Sugarloaf from seed

Sow 0.47 inches (1.2 cm) deep with a guideline distance of 3.12 inches (8.0 cm). Soil
temperature should be kept higher than 4°C / 39°F to ensure good germination.

By our calculations, you should look at sowing Sugarloaf about 45 days before your
last frost date.

Transplanting Sugarloaf
Ensure that temperatures are mild and all chance of frost has passed before planting out,
as Sugarloaf is a hardy plant.

Harvesting Sugarloaf

Cabbage 'Sugarloaf' information

 Lifecycle The lifecycle that Sugarloaf exhibits.Annual Category The category

for the Sugarloaf plant.Vegetable
 Hardiness Is Sugarloaf frost hardy?Hardy

 Mature Height How tall does Sugarloaf grow?30.0 cm / 11.7 inches Mature
Spread How wide does Sugarloaf grow?60.0 cm / 1.95 feet
 pH Range The level of acidity for Sugarloaf.6.0 - 7.5
 Sun How much sunlight does Sugarloaf need to grow?Full Sun
 Water Requirements How much water does Sugarloaf require?Medium
Nitrogen Requirements How much nitrogen fertiliser does Sugarloaf need?High
 Ideal Germination Temperature Range What temperatures does Sugarloaf need
in order to germinate?4°C / 39°F to 29°C / 84°F Growing Temperatures What
temperatures are best to grow Sugarloaf in?Help build our wiki! to Help build
our wiki!
 Sowing Depth How deep to plant Sugarloaf?1.2 cm / 0.47 inches
 Sowing Distance Apart How far apart to sow Sugarloaf8.0 cm / 3.12 inches
 Edible? Is Sugarloaf edible?edible


How long does Sugarloaf take to grow?

These estimates for how long Cabbage 'Sugarloaf' takes to sprout, grow and harvest are
from real observations from real gardeners, right around the world. Start logging and
journaling your observations to participate!

 Days to Germination How long does it take Sugarloaf to germinate? 3 days

Average 3 days | Min 3 days | Max 3 days ( 1)
 Days to Transplant How long until I can plant out Sugarloaf?+ 45 days Average
45 days | Min days | Max days ( 0)
 Days to Maturity How long until Sugarloaf is ready for harvest / bloom?+ 60
days Average 60 days | Min days | Max days ( 0)
 Total Growing Days How long does it take to grow Sugarloaf?= 108 days

When should I sow Sugarloaf?

Folia's when to plant Cabbage 'Sugarloaf' estimates are relative to your last frost date.
Enter your frost dates and we'll calculate your sowing and planting dates for you!

 When to sow The number of days to sow Sugarloaf before or after your last frost
date. 45 days before Last Frost Date When to plant out The number of days to
Sugarloaf before or after your last frost date. ?
 Sugarloaf is a strongly recommended variety. It has an excellent flavour whether cooked or served cold in
salads. The compact, conical heads mature over several weeks.

 Storage- Store in an airtight plastic bag in the refrigerator crisper

 Nutrition-Proper cabbage preparation and cooking methods are essential for receiving its cancer-preventive
effects.
 Growing cabbages in Kenya for wealth and employment creation (Brassica oleraceae)


 23:43 Margaret Gitau






 Cabbage is one of the most popular vegetables grown for cooking and use in salads in Kenya. The plant’s
scientific name is Brassica oleraceae and it’s propagated from seed. The seed is widely available in seed
stores across Kenya. This vegetable is grown under rain fed or irrigated conditions. Cabbage is mainly used
for cooking, in vegetable salad and as plant matter for livestock feed.The major market outlet is the local fresh
market in rural and urban areas.

 Optimum temperature for cabbage growing are 16-20ºC. At temperatures above 25ºC head formation is
reduced. The vegetable has high water requirement during growth period with 500mm rainfall considered
optimal. Cabbage can grow in altitude ranging from 800 to over 2,000 metres. Soils should be well drained,
high in organic matter, with high water holding capacity with optimum ph of 6-6.5.Cabbage varieties grown
depend on market requirements and taste. Sugar loaf, Gloria F1 hybrid and Copenhagen market are
considered as sweet tasting varieties. Classification according to the market:-

 1.Processing: Large heads, firm white varieties like drumheads
 2.Urban centres: medium to small heads e.g. Copenhagen market, golden acre, Sugar loaf and Gloria F1
hybrid.
 3.Rural areas: Normally plant medium to large heads e.g. drumheads, Copenhagen market, sugarloaf, golden
acre, Gloria F1 hybrid.
 4.Kitchen gardens: Grow varieties with long harvest period e.g. sugar loaf and Copenhagen market.
 There are many cabbage varieties in Kenya but the most popular are Gloria F1 hybrid, Copenhagen market
and golden acre. The growing of these vegetables should be started by raising seedlings on nursery beds.
Plant seeds in raised or sunken beds for wet and hot areas respectively. The dimensions should be 1 meter
wide and any desired length. Soil should be well prepared to a fine tilth before planting , then seeds drilled
into the nursery bed as cabbage seeds are small.The seed rate is 300gm/ha. Healthy vigorous seedlings
should be transplanted when they are 10-12cm high, about 4-6 weeks old. Soils low in organic matter requires
20 tons/ha of manure or 1-2 handfuls of manure per planting hole should be applied. D.A.P fertilizer is
recommended @ 200kg/ha at planting. In acidic soils dolomitic limestone should be applied @
500-1000kg/ha.In acid soils D.A.P fertilizer should be avoided and instead triple superphosphate, double
superphosphate or compound N.P.K fertilizer should be used.
 The plant should be topdressed with a nitrogen fertilizer at a rate of 100kg/ha when seedlings are established
and a second topdressing at a rate of 200kg/ha when the leaves start folding. Have the soil tested for nutrient
status where possible before planting. The field should be kept free of weeds during the vegetable’s growing
season and mulching conserves moisture. Harvesting starts 1.5-4months after transplanting and lasts 4-6
weeks. The vegetable is ready when heads are firm.3-4 wrapper leaves should be left to cover the head and
keep it fresh. Avoid bruising the head as it encourages rotting.


 Depending on variety, soil nutrient status, water availability and environmental conditions the vegetable yields
range from 40-100tons/ha.Grade and pack cabbage vegetable heads in crates, arrange with stem end facing
the outer wall of the crates for transportation. This will avoid bruising the vegetables head. Cabbage heads
can store for sometime at 0ºC and 95% relative humidity. Varieties with good storability grow hard compact
heads e.g. Copenhagen market cabbage variety. Buy your seeds from reputable stores.
Cabbage

The word cabbage is a derivation of the French word

caboche, a colloquial term for "head." The cabbage
family of which Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cauliflower
and kale are all members is wide and varied. Cabbage
itself comes in many forms the shapes can be flat,
conical or round, the heads compact or loose, and the
leaves curly or plain.

CABBAGE, the oldest and most widely grown

vegetable of the Brassica group, belonging to the
mustard family. The other members of this group
include broccoli, brussel sprouts, cauliflower, chinese
cabbage, kale, kohlrabi, and turnips. Cabbage is
distinguished from them by the short, petioled leaves
and later development of a compact head, by compressed stem and leaves, the latter
developing from within but swelling outward. Selective breeding has produced several distinct
types of cabbage: early, midseason, and late; green and purple; large and small heads; flat,
oval, conical and globular; savoy types; and those with either smooth or crumpled leaves.

Cabbage is a hardy vegetable that grows especially well in fertile soils. There are various
shades of green available, as well as red or purple types. Head shape varies from the standard
round to flattened or pointed. Most varieties have smooth leaves, but the Savoy types have
crinkly textured leaves.

Varieties in Kenya

COPENHAGEN MARKET

Large round heads with remarkable

sales appeal. Amongst the most
popular for home and market
gardening. A very productive strain;
small to medium plants with short
stems. Matures early and should be
harvested immediately as it is prone
to cracking if left for too long.
SUGAR LOAF

One of the finest cabbages for

African conditions. Has conical
shaped head. Crisp and sweet.
High market demand. Plants are
large and grow well under high
rainfall conditions, otherwise they
require liberal watering. Early
maturing of small to medium quality
cabbage.

GLORIA F1 HYBRID

One of the best F1 cabbages on

fresh market processing industry.
Heavy yielder of top quality heads.
It has blue green color and a thick
waxy layer. Has strong rooting and
tolerates Black rot diseases.
Resistance to heat and bolting.
Spacing adjustment results in
weights of uniform heads between 2
to 7kg. Has good resistance to
splitting and keeps well after
harvesting.

PRUKTOR F1 HYBRID

A Medium sized cabbage with

round
grey green heads of 3 - 4 kgs which
mature
70 -80 days transplanting. This
variety stands
for a long time without splitting.
Extremely good internal quality.
Sweet flavour.
COPENHAGEN MARKET

Large round heads with remarkable

sales appeal. Amongst the most
popular for home and market
gardening. A very productive strain;
small to medium plants with short
stems. Matures early and should be
harvested immediately as it is prone
to cracking if left for too long.
CHIHILI

One of the most important chinese

cabbage variety.
Uniform and vigorous, producing
pale green loaf like heads with pure
white core, widely adapted will
produce abundance of leaves even
where other cabbage varieties will
not grow.
Slightly pungent in flavour. Easy to
grow but prone to bolting below 15
degrees celsius.
Cabbage is easy to grow if you select suitable varieties and practice proper culture and insect
management. Always regarded as a good source of vitamins, cabbage recently has been
shown to have disease-preventive properties as well.

Spacing

Space plants 12 to 24 inches apart in the row, depending upon the variety and the size of head
desired. The closer the spacing, the smaller the heads. Early varieties are usually planted 12
inches apart in all directions. Early varieties produce 1 to 3 pound heads and later varieties
produce 4 to 8 pound heads. Sow cabbage seed 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Keep the seeds moist
and thin or transplant the seedlings to the desired spacing. The plants removed may be
transplanted to another row or flat.

Care

Use planting fertilizer when transplanting and side-dress with nitrogen fertilizer when the plants
are half grown. Cultivate shallowly to keep down weeds. Ample soil moisture is necessary
throughout the growing season to produce good cabbage. Irrigation is especially important to
help the young plants withstand the intense sunlight and heat of summer and to supply the
developing heads with sufficient water to develop quickly.

Harvesting

Cabbage can be harvested anytime after the heads form. For highest yield, cut the cabbage
heads when they are solid (firm to hand pressure) but before they crack or split. When heads
are mature, a sudden heavy rain may cause heads to crack or split wide open. The exposed
internal tissue soon becomes unusable. Harvest and salvage split heads as soon as possible
after they are discovered.

In addition to harvesting the mature heads of the cabbage planted in the spring, you can harvest
a later crop of small heads (cabbage sprouts). These sprouts develop on the stumps of the cut
stems. Cut as close to the lower surface of the head as possible, leaving the loose outer leaves
intact. Buds that grow in the axils of these leaves (the angle between the base of the leaf and
the stem above it) later form sprouts. The sprouts develop to 2 to 4 inches in diameter and
should be picked when firm. Continue control of cabbage worms and other pests. If this control
cannot be maintained, remove and destroy or compost the stumps, because they serve as a
breeding ground for diseases and insect pests.

Common problems

Yellow or fusarium wilt is a relatively common disease that causes the leaves of plants to wilt
and die. The first sign of the disease is yellowing and browning of the lower leaves. The plants
are stunted before wilting occurs. Grow yellows-resistant (YR) or yellows-tolerant varieties. Most
modern hybrids have this tolerance or resistance bred into them.

Blackleg and black rot are two diseases that cause severe losses. The plants may be stunted,
turn yellow and die. Blackleg is named for the black cankers on the stem. The taproot often rots
away. Black rot can be recognized by large, V-shaped, yellow-to-brown areas in the leaves,
starting at the leaf edge. The veins turn black. Soft rot usually follows black-rot infection.

Control is essentially the same for blackleg and black rot. Both diseases are spread by seed,
transplants and insects. Buy seed that has been hot-water treated to kill the disease organisms.
Do not buy transplants that are wilted, are an unhealthy shade of green, or have black spots on
the stems or leaves.
When you find diseased plants in the garden, collect the leaves, stems and tops; and burn or
dispose of them. Do not put diseased plants into the compost pile. Avoid cultural practices
(crowding, overwatering, planting in poorly drained soil and inadequate insect control) that
support the disease organisms of black rot and blackleg. If possible, grow black-rot-resistant
varieties.

Splitting is caused by the pressure of excessive water taken up after the heads are solid.
Cutting the roots (spading on two sides of the plant) or breaking the roots (lifting and twisting the
head to one side) can often reduce excessive splitting or bursting, but it also damages the plant
and requires that the head be harvested relatively soon.

Cabbage plants "bolt" (form premature seedstalks) when they are exposed to low temperatures
(35 to 45 degrees F) for extended periods. Such chilling may happen if plants are set out too
early or if an unseasonable blast of cold assaults the garden. After the plants have stems as
large as a pencil, they are subject to this "cold conditioning," that initiates the flowering
response.

Non-heading varieties of cabbage (similar to flowering kale) have been developed for
ornamental uses. They have colorful white, pink or red rosettes of leaves surrounded by green
or purple outer leaves. Most colorful during cool fall weather, they should be started in early
summer to midsummer and set out with fall and winter plantings of regular, heading varieties of
cabbage. Flowering cabbage (and flowering kale) are edible as well as ornamental.

Swellings and distorted roots on stunted, wilted plants may be symptoms of clubroot disease.
This disease is caused by a fungus that remains in the garden soils for many years once it
becomes established. It is spread by movement of infested soil and infected transplants. Other
related cole crops (like broccoli and cauliflower) also may become infected.. If, in fact, you have
clubroot in a location, destroy infected plant parts (including the roots) and for at least 4 years
avoid planting any member of the cabbage family there, including radishes, turnips and
ornamental relatives of cabbage.

Nutritional Value

As with broccoli, cabbage is a cruciferous vegetable and may reduce the risk of some forms of
cancer including colorectal cancers. Cabbage is also high in beta-carotene, vitamin C and fiber.
Other substantial nutrients in a half cup cooked cabbage include the following.

Nutrition Facts (1/2 cup cooked green cabbage)

Calories 16
Dietary fiber 2.9 grams
Carbohydrates 3.6 mg
Vitamin C 18.2 mg

Sources of cabbage in Kenya.

Cabbage is grown in virtually all areas of Kenya but commercial cabbage comes from Kiambu,
Nyeri, Muranga, Nakuru, Nyandarua, Narok.

COMMON STANDARDS OF QUALITY FOR HEADED CABBAGES (European Union)

REGULATION 1591/87 ANNEX 1 AS AMENDED BY REGULATION 888/97

I. DEFINITION OF PRODUCE

This standard applies to headed cabbages grown from varieties (cultivars) of Brassica oleracea
L. var. capitata L. (including red cabbages and pointed cabbages) and from Brassica oleracea
L. var. bullata DC and var. subauda L. (savoy cabbages), supplied fresh to the consumer,
cabbages for industrial processing being excluded.

II. PROVISIONS CONCERNING QUALITY

The purpose of the standard is to define the quality requirements for headed cabbages after
preparation and packaging.

A. Minimum requirements:

In all classes, subject to the special provisions for each class and the tolerances allowed, the
headed cabbages should be:

- intact,

- fresh in appearance,

- not burst, showing no signs of flower development.

- sound, produce affected by rotting or deterioration such as to make it unfit for

consumption is excluded,

- free of bruises and injury,

- free from insects and/or other parasites,

1591/87 - free of damage due to frost,

- clean, practically free of any visible foreign matter,

- free of abnormal external moisture,

- free of any foreign smell and/or taste.

The stem should be cut slightly below the lowest point of leaf growth; the leaves should remain
firmly attached, and the cut should be clean.

The condition of the headed cabbages must be such as to enable them:

- to withstand transport and handling, and

- to arrive in satisfactory condition at the place of destination.

B. Classification

Headed cabbages are classified into two classes defined below:

1591/87 COMMON STANDARDS OF QUALITY FOR HEADED CABBAGES (cont'd)

(i) Class I:

Headed cabbages graded into this class should be of good quality and possess all the
characteristics typical of the variety. They should be compact, having regard to the species.

Headed cabbages, according to the variety, must have firmly attached leaves. Store headed
cabbages may have some of their outer leaves removed.

Green Savoy headed cabbages and early headed cabbages, taking into account their variety,
must be properly trimmed, but in doing so a number of leaves may be left for protection.

Green headed cabbages may be slightly frosted.

The following are admitted:

- small cracks in the outer leaves,

- slight bruising and light trimming of the outer leaves, provided that it does not affect
the good condition of the produce.

(ii) Class II:

This class includes headed cabbages which do not qualify for inclusion in Class I, but meet the
minimum requirements specified above. They may differ from headed cabbages in Class I in
the following ways:

- they may have cracks in the outer leaves,

- more of their outer leaves may be removed,

- they may have larger bruises and the outer leaves may be more extensively trimmed,

- they may be less compact.

III. PROVISIONS CONCERNING SIZING

Sizing is determined by the net weight. This must not be less than 350 grams per unit.

Sizing is compulsory for headed cabbages presented in packages. In that case, the weight of
the heaviest head in any one package must not be more than double the weight of the lightest
head. When the weight of the heaviest head is equal to or less than 2 kilograms the difference
between the heaviest and the lightest head may be up to 1 kilogram.

1591/87 COMMON STANDARDS OF QUALITY FOR HEADED CABBAGES (cont'd)

IV. PROVISIONS CONCERNING TOLERANCES

Tolerances in respect of quality and size are allowed in each package or in each lot in the case
of headed cabbages transported in bulk for produce not satisfying the requirements for the class
indicated.

A. Quality Tolerances

(i) Class I:

10% by number or weight of headed cabbages not satisfying the requirements for the class, but
meeting the requirements for Class II or, exceptionally, coming within the tolerances for that
class.

(ii) Class II:

10% by number or weight of headed cabbages not satisfying the requirements of the class, or
the minimum requirements, but excluding headed cabbages visibly affected by rotting or any
other deterioration rendering them unfit for consumption.

B. Size Tolerances
For all classes: 10% by number or weight of headed cabbages not meeting the specified
requirements as regards:

- uniformity,

- minimum size.

However, no head may weigh less than 300 grams.

V. PROVISIONS CONCERNING PRESENTATION

A. Uniformity

The contents of each package or lot, if transported in bulk, must contain only headed cabbages
of the same origin, variety and quality.

The headed cabbages classed in Class I must be uniform in shape and colour.

The visible part of the contents of the package or lot must be representative of the entire
contents.

B. Packaging

The headed cabbages must be packed in such a way as to ensure that they are suitably
protected. They may be delivered packed or in bulk.

1591/87 COMMON STANDARDS OF QUALITY FOR HEADED CABBAGES (cont'd)

The materials used inside the package must be clean and of a quality such as to avoid causing
any external or internal damage to the produce. The use of materials and particularly of paper
or stamps bearing trade specifications is allowed provided that the printing or labelling has been
done with a non-toxic ink or glue.
Packages, or lots if the produce is transported in bulk, must be free of all foreign matter.

VI. PROVISIONS CONCERNING MARKING

1. For headed cabbages presented in packages, each package must bear the following
particulars in letters grouped on the same side, legibly and indelibly marked and visible from the
outside.

A. Identification

888/97 Packer and/or Dispatcher: Name and address or officially issued or accepted code
mark. However, in the case where a code mark is used, the reference “Packer
and/or dispatcher (or equivalent abbreviations)” has to be indicated in close
connection with the code mark.

B. Nature of produce

'White headed cabbages', etc, if the contents are not visible from the outside.

C. Origin of produce

Country of origin and, optionally, district where grown, or national, regional or local place name.

D. Commercial specifications

- Class

- Weight or number of units.

E. Official control mark (optional)

2. For headed cabbages transported in bulk (loaded directly into a vehicle or vehicle
compartment), the above particulars must appear on a document accompanying the goods or
on a notice placed in a visible position inside the vehicle.

Brassica oleracea L. (headed cabbage)

Protologue
Sp. pl. 2: 667 (1753).
Family
Brassicaceae (Cruciferae)
Chromosome number
2n = 18
Vernacular names
Headed cabbage, cabbage (En). Chou pommé, chou cabus (Fr). Couve repolho (Po).
Kabichi, kabichu (Sw).
Origin and geographic distribution
Headed cabbage evolved in north-western Europe during the early Middle Ages from
leafy unbranched and thin-stemmed kales, which were introduced in Roman times from
the Mediterranean area, where Brassica oleracea and related species occur naturally in
coastal areas. Wild types of Brassica oleracea growing along the coasts of western
Europe may have contributed to the development. Whereas the primitive types were
originally cultivated for medicinal purposes, headed cabbage had become one of the
most important vegetables in 16th century Europe. From then onwards headed cabbage
was introduced worldwide. In tropical and subtropical areas commercial cultivation is
still mostly restricted to the cooler climates of the highlands or to the mild cool seasons
at higher latitudes. In Africa headed cabbage is especially common in East Africa and
Egypt.
Uses
Headed cabbage is usually consumed as a cooked or stir-fried vegetable, sometimes
pickled. It is also eaten fresh as an ingredient of coleslaw (a salad made of raw sliced or
chopped cabbage) and mixed salads. It may be preserved by steaming and drying or by
anaerobic fermentation in brine (sauerkraut).
Production and international trade
The importance of headed cabbage in tropical and subtropical regions, mainly early
maturing white headed cabbage with firm and round to flat heads (1–2.5 kg), has
increased considerably during recent decades. It can be fairly easily produced in large
quantities, transported over great distances without much damage and stored for a few
weeks. The area planted with headed cabbage worldwide in 2002 was estimated at
about 3 million ha in 124 countries (producing some 62.5 million t): 2 million ha in
Asia (of which 1.5 million ha in China), 0.5 million ha in Europe, 180,000 ha in the
Americas, and an estimated 100,000 ha in Africa. Reliable data on areas planted
annually with headed cabbage are lacking for most countries in tropical Africa. Based
on sales of commercial seed, at least 40,000 ha of white headed cabbage is grown in
Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania together, 10,000 ha in the region covering Malawi,
Zambia and Zimbabwe, 4000 ha in Ethiopia and 3000 ha in Cameroon. Almost all
white headed cabbage is produced for local urban markets. Mozambique imports
considerable quantities of headed cabbage from South Africa and until recently did so
also from Zimbabwe.
Properties
The nutritional composition of white headed cabbage per 100 g edible portion (i.e. 77%
of the product as purchased) is: water 90.1 g, energy 109 kJ (26 kcal), protein 1.7 g, fat
0.4 g, carbohydrate 4.1 g, dietary fibre 2.9 g, Ca 52 mg, Mg 8 mg, P 41 mg, Fe 0.7 mg,
Zn 0.3 mg, carotene 385 μg, thiamin 0.15 mg, riboflavin 0.02 mg, niacin 0.5 mg, folate
75 μg, ascorbic acid 49 mg (Holland, B., Unwin, I.D. & Buss, D.H., 1991).
All Brassica crops contain glucosinolates, which in crushed leaves are hydrolyzed by
the enzyme myrosinase to mostly bitter-tasting thiocyanates and volatile
isothiocyanates; these compounds have antimicrobial and anticarcinogenic properties.
In headed cabbage glucosinolate content is rather low (100 mg per 100 g) as a result of
centuries of selection against bitter-tasting plants. In spite of its ancestry, headed
cabbage does not seem to have medicinal applications.
Description
Erect, glabrous, biennial herb up to 60 cm tall at the mature vegetative stage, up to 200
cm when flowering, with unbranched stem up to 30 cm long, gradually thickening
upwards; root system strongly branched. Leaves alternate but closely arranged, sessile,
basal leaves forming a rosette, upper leaves in a compact flattened globose to ellipsoid
head up to 30 cm in diameter, usually simple; stipules absent; blade ovate to obovate or
almost circular, up to 35 cm × 30 cm, undulate or irregularly incised to almost entire,
coated with a layer of wax, whitish to pale green with whitish veins (white headed
cabbage), red-purple (red headed cabbage), or green to yellow-green and puckered
(savoy headed cabbage). Inflorescence a terminal paniculate raceme up to 100 cm long.
Flowers bisexual, regular, 4-merous; pedicel up to 2 cm long, ascending; sepals oblong,
c. 1 cm long, erect; petals obovate, 1.5–2.5 cm long, clawed, pale to bright yellow or
whitish; stamens 6; ovary superior, cylindrical, 2-celled, stigma globose. Fruit a linear
silique 5–10 cm × c. 5 mm, with a tapering beak 5–15 mm long, dehiscent, up to 30 -
seeded. Seeds globose, 2–4 mm in diameter, finely reticulate, brown. Seedling with
epigeal germination, with a taproot and lateral roots; hypocotyl 3–5 cm long, epicotyl
absent; cotyledons with petiole 1–2 cm long, blade cordate, 1–1.5 cm long, cuneate at
base, notched at apex.
Other botanical information
Headed cabbage has been classified as convar. capitata (L.) Alef., which has been
subdivided in var. capitata L. comprising white headed cabbage (with smooth white to
green leaves) and red headed cabbage (with red leaves), and var. sabauda L.
comprising savoy headed cabbage (with curly green leaves). These 3 types of headed
cabbage can best be considered as cultivar-groups and as such have been called White
Headed Cabbage Group, Red Headed Cabbage Group and Savoy Headed Cabbage
Group. However, a formal distinction into these groups at world level is often
considered superfluous and confusing, although at a local level it may be relevant.
Hundreds of cultivars of headed cabbage are grown worldwide. In the market gardens
of tropical regions early-maturing compact and round- or flat-headed F1 hybrids of
white headed cabbage are increasingly replacing the open-pollinated cultivars such as
‘Golden Acre’, ‘Copenhagen Market’, ‘Glory of Enkhuizen’, the flat-headed
‘Drumhead’ and the pointed ‘Sugarloaf’. Examples of F1 hybrid cultivars are ‘Fresco’,
‘Gloria’ (= ‘Green Boy’), ‘Green Coronet’, ‘KK Cross’, ‘KY Cross’ and ‘Hercules’.
White headed cabbage hybrids of Japanese and Taiwanese origin in particular often are
early maturing and have heat tolerance. Technisem markets several cultivars suitable
for tropical lowland areas (e.g. coastal areas near Dakar and Abidjan) including ‘KK
Cross’, ‘Fabula’, ‘Rustica’ and ‘Sahel’, which can be harvested 60–80 days after
planting, and the very early (45–55 days) but smaller-headed ‘Quick Start’ and ‘Bali’.
All these cultivars are Xanthomonas resistant; ‘Fabula’, ‘Rustica’ and ‘Sahel’ are
Fusarium resistant too.
Red headed cabbage and savoy headed cabbage are of economic importance mainly in
Europe and America, but not common in tropical regions. Examples of Taiwanese
cultivars of red cabbage are ‘Scarlet’ and ‘Sunny Side’. The Technisem red headed
cabbage cultivar ‘Red Ball’ is heat and Xanthomonas tolerant.
Growth and development
Seeds germinate within 3–6 days and seedlings have 4 true leaves 4–5 weeks after
sowing at 15–20°C average daily temperatures. The first 7–15 leaves expand and
unfold to form a rosette, commonly called the frame. Subsequent leaves only partly
unfold, forming the shell of the head; the growing point increases in size, the stem
thickens and the head is filled out with fleshy leaves. The head is solid and ready for
harvesting 80–120 days after germination, depending on genotype and climate.
Most headed cabbage types require 6–8 weeks exposure to temperatures below 10°C
for flower initiation and bolting. The main stem increases in length rapidly, causing the
head to burst, and then develops a branched inflorescence. Flowering starts at the base
of the inflorescence, 2–3 months after the first sign of bolting and continues for 4–5
weeks. Sporophytic self-incompatibility (1-locus system with multiple alleles)
precludes natural self-fertilization. Insects, especially bees, effect cross -pollination.
Seeds are mature 8–10 weeks after anthesis.
Ecology
Headed cabbage grows best at average daily temperatures of 15–20°C and a diurnal
variation of at least 5°C. In tropical regions these conditions are only met in highlands
above 800 m. At temperatures in excess of 25°C young plants still grow well, but
subsequent head formation will be retarded. Some Japanese and Taiwanese F1 hybrids
are more heat-tolerant, but even these do not perform so well under lowland tropical
conditions.
Most headed cabbage cultivars are daylength neutral and flower initiation is mainly
induced by low temperatures. Half-grown plants can even withstand short spells of
frost (–5°C).
Soils should be well drained and fertile, having good moisture retaining capacity, high
organic matter content and a pH of 6.5–7.5. Because of its shallow root system, headed
cabbage needs a regular supply of water throughout the growing season either by rain
or irrigation. Evapotranspiration of a fully-grown headed cabbage field can reach 4 mm
per day.
Management
Headed cabbage is often grown in rotation with maize, rice, potato, legumes, tobacco
and vegetables (tomato, capsicum pepper, onion, carrot). Soil preparation includes deep
digging, mixing with compost or stable manure (20–50 t/ha), followed by fine tillage.
Before planting NPK fertilizer is applied and for good vegetative growth a top dressing
with N fertilizer is given when head formation starts. Type of fertilizer and quantities
depend on soil type, initial nutrient reserves in the soil and yield level. The uptake and
removal of nutrients is high. A headed cabbage crop with a yield of 25 t/ha absorbs
approximately 100 kg N, 12 kg P and 75 kg K. At least double that quantity is
recommended as fertilizer gift. Growing headed cabbage on ridges during the wet
season improves drainage. The crop should be kept free of weeds, especially in the first
month after transplanting. Mulching (dry grass or straw) is beneficial to growth.
Propagation and planting
Dry headed cabbage seed (6% moisture content) will remain viable for at least 4–6
years when stored dry at temperatures below 18°C. Freshly harvested seed sometimes
gives poor germination. Soaking overnight and rinsing with water overcomes this.
After 3–4 months storage dormancy disappears. Seeds are sown on seedbeds, in pots or
in trays; young seedlings may require protection from excessive sunshine by light
shading. About 300–500 g seed and about 200 m2 of seedbed are required for 1 ha of
cabbage. The 1000-seed weight is 3–5 g. Transplanting to the field takes place 4–5
weeks later, when the seedlings have 4–6 true leaves. Plant densities of 30,000–50,000
plants per ha are usually applied and spacing is 40–50 cm × 55–60 cm. Head size can
be regulated to some extent by adjusting plant density.
Lateral shoots from decapitated stumps can be rooted and transplanted. This method of
vegetative propagation is practised in breeding programmes to maintain selected plants.
Diseases and pests
The most important diseases in tropical areas are: downy mildew (Peronospora
parasitica) important mainly at elevations above 1200 m, and grey leaf mould
(Alternaria brassicae), both of which can be controlled by fungicides and selection of
tolerant cultivars; bacterial soft rot (Erwinia carotovora) under hot and humid
conditions; black rot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris), controlled by disease-
free seeds and seedlings (some cultivars have a good level of tolerance) and avoidance
of overhead irrigation; wire stem (Rhizoctonia solani), inducing damping off and vein
and leaf necrosis below the head; club root (Plasmodiophora brassicae) a serious threat
also at medium elevations (about 700 m), prevented by wide crop rotation, eradication
of cruciferous weeds (alternative hosts of the pathogen), by liming and cultivation on
soils with pH >7, and by stimulating antagonistic fungi in the soil (such as
Trichoderma and Mortierella spp.). Club root has been spreading fast during the last
decades and has become the most detrimental disease in many highland areas. A few
cultivars appear to have some tolerance, but high levels of durable resistance to club
root are not yet available. Other diseases are: ringspot (Mycosphaerella brassicicola);
cabbage yellows (Fusarium oxysporum f.sp. conglutinans), to be controlled by crop
rotation and resistant cultivars; cauliflower and turnip mosaic virus, which can be
prevented by control of the aphid vectors and by eradicating hosts like wild mustard.
Alum dusted on stumps has been found effective in controlling storage rots caused by
Erwinia.
Important pests include: diamondback moth (Plutella xylostella) for which chemical
control is increasingly ineffective because of the quick build -up of resistance to all
except neem-based insecticides, whereas biological control with sex pheromones and
parasitoids (Diadegma semiclausum, Apanteles plutellae, Diadromus collaris and
Oomyzus sokolowski) is promising; leaf webber (Crocidolomia binotalis); web worm
(Hellula undalis) particularly in southern Africa. Occasional pests are cut worm
(Spodoptera littoralis), flea beetle (Phyllotreta spp.), cabbage butterfly (Pieris spp.)
and cabbage aphid (Brevicoryne brassicae). Indian mustard (Brassica juncea (L.)
Czern.) may be used as a trap crop for diamondback moth and other pests when planted
in rows between headed cabbage; chemical control can then be restricted to the mustard
plants. Tomato and onions are good repellent crops for the diamondback moth.
Harvesting
Well filled-out and solid heads are cut, usually with a few wrapper leaves attached, 2–3
months after transplanting. The period of harvesting is 1–2 weeks, F1 hybrids maturing
more uniformly than open-pollinated cultivars. The lateral shoots developing on
decapitated stumps are sometimes harvested as a sort of loose-leaved mini cabbage.
Yield
Open-pollinated cultivars yield 10–25 t/ha, F1 hybrids 40–60 t/ha under optimum
growing conditions. In tropical regions yields are generally highest above 800 m
altitude. Seed yields are 200–1000 kg/ha in temperate climates.
Handling after harvest
Cabbage heads can be stored for 7–10 days in a cool (20°C), well-aerated and dark
space. Transportation should be in ventilated boxes, net bags or lightweight Hessian
sacks. At 1°C and high relative humidity (95–98%) cabbage heads can be kept for 2–3
months.
Genetic resources
Working and germplasm collections of white cabbage and other Brassica crops are
available in several research centres in Europe, Russian Federation, United States, India
and Japan. In Europe a Brassica genebank has been established in cooperation with
private companies. A central electronic catalogue of the collections is available at the
Centre for Genetic Resources (CGN), Wageningen, Netherlands. Preservation of
germplasm from the centres of genetic diversity (Mediterranean region) appears
adequate and interspecific crosses within the Brassicaceae family widens the genepool
available to breeders.
Breeding
Present breeding programmes aim at F1 hybrids based on single crosses between inbred
lines. Inbreeding is usually effected by manual bud-pollination or treatment with CO2
(2–10%) after bee pollination to temporarily break the self -incompatibility. Fully
homozygous lines are now produced much faster from doubled haploids through
microspore culture, a technique perfected for Brassica oleracea in the early 1990s.
Main breeding objectives include: head shape and size, internal firmness, leaf
configuration and colour, core (= internal stem) length, taste, vitamin C content,
earliness, standing ability (delayed splitting of the head at maturity), productivity, heat
tolerance, resistance to diseases, pests and tip burn (physiological disorder). F1 hybrid
cultivars with good host resistance to cabbage yellows, black rot and downy mildew
have been developed. However, efforts to breed for durable resistance to club root have
had limited success so far, due to the large genetic variability of the pathogen, the
limited sources of resistance and the complex inheritance of host resistance. Headed
cabbage cultivars with proven resistance in one region are frequently susceptible
elsewhere due to the presence of different pathotypes of Plasmodiophora brassicae.
Commercial seed production of F1 hybrids, which was traditionally based on the system
of self-incompatibility, is increasingly realized with cytoplasmic male sterility (CMS)
in the female lines. The negative effects initially linked to the ‘Ogura’ system of CMS
in Brassica oleracea, such as leaf chlorosis at low temperatures, low female fertility
and poor insect pollination due to absence of nectar glands in the flowers, have been
overcome (e.g. by hybridization with protoplasts, followed by strict selection among
regenerated plants).
Prospects
The importance of white headed cabbage will further increase in tropical regions. Heat-
tolerant cultivars enable cultivation at lower elevations, but market gardening will
continue to prevail in the highlands because of higher yield potential, better head
quality and fewer disease and pest problems. Considerable progress is being made with
effective methods of integrated pest management in headed cabbage and this may
reduce pesticide use. Cultivars resistant to cabbage yellows and black rot are becoming
increasingly available. However, club root is spreading fast in areas with intensive
market gardening and cultivars with durable resistance will not be available in the
medium term. Methods of control by antagonists to the pathogen and cultural methods
deserve more attention.
The development of DNA markers by plant biotechnology for more precise indirect
screening for resistance to diseases and pests, as well as other characteristics, will
considerably increase breeding efficiency in headed cabbage. The seeds of Japanese
hybrids are still mainly produced by self-incompatibility, but several European and
American seed companies are quickly changing over to the CMS system, because of
lower seed production costs and better seed quality (no inbreds). A few smaller
European seed companies producing ‘biological’ seed for organic farming have refused
to adopt CMS in Brassica vegetable seed production.