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2007 Ingredients & Implements B

2007 Ingredients & Implements B


Sugar & Food Steamers By Kristin V. Montalvo

drinks. Fruit sugar has a more uniform,


Sugar smaller crystal size than “regular” sugar.
While it’s certainly true that sugar
The uniformity of crystal size prevents
makes life sweeter, it is perhaps one
separation or settling of larger crystals
of the most modest ingredients in our
to the bottom of the box, an important
pantry — so unassuming that we often
quality in dry mixes.
take it for granted. In fact, the white
stuff we now consider a staple was once
so rare and expensive, it was commonly Baker’s Special Sugar
referred to as “white gold.” As its name suggests, it was developed
So where does this sweet stuff come specially for the baking industry. The
from? Sugar is obtained from two crystal size of Baker’s Special is even
sources — either from the sugar cane or finer than that of fruit sugar. It is used
from the root of the sugar beet. Once the for sugaring doughnuts and cookies, as
sugar is separated from the cane or beet well as in some commercial cake recipes
plant, the result is 99.95 percent pure to create a fine crumb texture.
sucrose, a complex sugar composed
of glucose and fructose. Once refined, Superfine, Ultrafine
sugar is then processed into small or Bar Sugar
crystals and varies in color from white to This sugar’s crystal size is the finest
dark brown, depending on the amount of all the types of granulated white
of molasses added during processing. sugar. It is ideal for delicately textured
The size of the sugar crystals ultimately determines the sugar’s form cakes and meringues because the crystals’ many sharp edges cut
— be it white granulated, light or dark brown granulated, molasses, into the batter during creaming, forming many air pockets. It’s also
or powdered — and use in the kitchen. well-suited for sweetening fruits and iced-drinks since it dissolves
easily. In England, it’s known as castor sugar, named after the type
White Granulated Sugars of shaker in which it is often packaged.
“Regular” or White Sugar, Extra Fine
“Regular” or white granulated sugar is the all-purpose sugar used Confectioners or Powdered Sugar
throughout the kitchen. It’s the sugar most often used in recipes This sugar is granulated sugar ground to a smooth powder and
and what we spoon into our coffee every morning. When heated, then sifted. It contains about 3–4 percent cornstarch to prevent
white sugar takes on a toffee-like color and flavor. caking. Powdered sugar is ground into three different degrees
of fineness: 10X is the finest and most common; 6X and 4X are
Fruit Sugar coarser. Powdered sugar is most often used in icings, confections
Fruit sugar is slightly finer than “regular” sugar and is used in and whipping cream. Its powdered texture also works beautifully
dry mixes such as gelatin and pudding desserts, and powdered when dusted on desserts.

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2007 Ingredients & Implements B
Turbinado Sugar
This sugar is raw sugar which has been partially processed,
where only the surface molasses have been washed off. It has a
blond color and slight molasses flavor, and is often used in tea and
other beverages.

Muscovado or Barbados Sugar


Muscovado sugar, a British specialty brown sugar, is very dark
brown and has a particularly strong molasses flavor. The crystals
are slightly coarser and stickier in texture than “regular” brown
sugar.

Free-Flowing Brown Sugars


These sugars are specialty products produced by a co-
crystallization process. The process yields fine, powder-like brown
sugar that is less moist than “regular” brown sugar. Since it is less
moist, it does not clump and is free-flowing like white sugar.

Coarse Sugar Demerara Sugar


The crystal size of coarse sugar is larger than that of “regular” Popular in England, Demerara sugar is a light brown sugar with
sugar. The large crystal size of coarse sugar makes it highly resistant large golden crystals, which are slightly sticky from the adhering
to color change at cooking and baking temperatures, ideal for molasses. It is often used in tea, coffee or on top of hot cereals, and
making fondants, confections and liquors. has a toffee-like flavor.

Sanding Sugar Liquid Sugar


Another large-crystal sugar, sanding sugar is used mainly in There are several types of liquid sugars. Liquid sugar (sucrose) is
the baking and confectionery industries as a sprinkle on top of white granulated sugar that has been dissolved in water before it is
baked goods. The large crystals reflect light and give the product a used. Liquid sugar is ideal for products whose recipes first require
sparkling appearance. sugar to be dissolved. Amber liquid sugar is darker in color and can
be used in foods where brown color is desired.
Brown Sugar
Light or Dark Brown Sugar Invert Sugar
Brown sugar is simply regular refined sugar with some Sucrose can be split into its two component sugars — glucose
of the molasses returned to it. Light brown sugar contains and fructose. This process is called inversion, and the product is
approximately 3.5 percent molasses; dark brown sugar contains called invert sugar. Commercial invert sugar is a liquid product
about 6.5 percent. Dark brown sugar has a deeper color and that contains equal amounts of glucose and fructose. Because
stronger molasses flavor than light brown sugar. Lighter types are fructose is sweeter than either glucose or sucrose, invert sugar
generally used in baking and making butterscotch, condiments is sweeter than white sugar. Invert sugar is used mainly by food
and glazes. The rich, full flavor of dark brown sugar makes it manufacturers to retard the crystallization of sugar and to retain
good for gingerbread, mincemeat, baked beans, and other full- moisture in the packaged food. Home cooks make invert sugar
flavored foods. Because of the added moisture, brown sugar whenever a recipe calls for a sugar to be boiled gently in a mixture
tends to lump, trapping air into pockets. It should be measured of water and lemon juice.
by weight or, if measured by volume, it should be packed firmly
into the measuring cup in order to remove any air pockets.
Always store brown sugar in an airtight container to prevent it
from drying and hardening. Source: The Sugar Association

The Gourmet Retailer  2007 INGREDIENTS & implements


2007 Ingredients & Implements B
Food Steamers
Steaming is probably the most nutritious
method of cooking because, unlike boiling,
it doesn’t wash away water-soluble vitamins
and nutrients. Vegetables, particularly
green and yellow ones, benefit the most
from steaming as this method of cooking
keeps them crisp, flavorful and brightly
colored. But it’s not only veggies that
hold up well in a steamer — so does fish,
chicken, shellfish, couscous and rice.
Steamers may be self-contained pieces of
cookware or separate pieces — like solid
inserts or collapsible baskets — that fit inside
cookware. Whichever steaming device you
decide upon, in order to function properly,
it must have a tight-fitting lid so steam can
build up within the vessel to properly cook
the food. There must also be a way for the
steam to escape when necessary, so that too
much pressure will not be created inside the the longest cooking time is placed in the bottom layer, with those
vessel. It’s best to use a pot that is both deep and wide so steam requiring less time placed in the top layer. When steaming foods
can circulate freely around the ingredients. The following is a made with ingredients that may stick to the surface, it is best to
rundown of the various steamers available on the market: lightly coat the bamboo with a cooking oil or vegetable cooking
spray. Another option is to place a layer of leaves from vegetable
Steamer Basket/Insert greens, such as bok choy or cabbage leaves, to serve as a means
The least expensive style of steamer is the collapsible basket,
to keep the food off the bottom of the basket and to enhance the
which typically costs under $10. Collapsible baskets commonly
flavor of the food. Even a simple plate placed at the bottom of the
have perforated stainless steel leaves that expand or close to fit
bamboo steamer will do.
into 6¼-inch or larger pots, and to hold a small or large quantity of
ingredients. The basket rests on legs that raise the contents above Electric Steamer
the water. Usually there is a metal post in the center that can be This is a very clever appliance, with a water reservoir in the base
removed to accommodate large vegetables, such as corn on the and, above it, two stackable oblong steaming trays, just the right
cob or a whole head of cauliflower. There are also tiered steamers length for steaming long asparagus or fish with tails, and a bowl
and stackable steamers — usually made of sturdy stainless steel for steaming rice. The steam comes up quickly and abundantly,
fitting snugly into deep pots — that have two levels of baskets that and there’s an automatic timer and shut-off. Another method for
allow several different foods to be cooked at the same time, one steaming food is to use an appliance especially designed to cook
above the other. rice, such as a rice cooker. When cooking rice, most appliances
automatically shut off when the water has been absorbed into
Bamboo Steamer the rice. The rice can even be kept warm in the appliance for
Bamboo steamers are commonly used for cooking dim sum and several hours without any concern of the rice becoming sticky
smaller amounts of food. They work well to absorb excess moisture and clumped together. This tool provides an almost foolproof
and prevent condensation from dripping on food. Placed inside a method for evenly cooked and textured rice. You can also use
wok while the wok cooks other ingredients, they can be stacked to the rice steamer insert as a basket for steaming vegetables or
accommodate different foods in each basket. The food requiring shellfish.

The Gourmet Retailer  2007 INGREDIENTS & implements


2007 Ingredients & Implements B
Couscous & Peelers By Kristin V. Montalvo

Couscous
Many people assume couscous (pronounced KOOS-
koos) is a grain, but it is actually a wheat product made from
semolina (coarsely ground durum wheat) that has been
steamed and allowed to dry. It has a pellet-like appearance
and does not have much flavor when served alone, but
becomes quite flavorful when added to other ingredients due
to its ability to absorb surrounding flavors. When cooked,
couscous expands to become light and fluffy.
Originally hailing from Morocco and northern Algeria,
it has long been a staple throughout North Africa and the
Mediterranean. Couscous, first introduced to the New World
more than 400 years ago by Portuguese traders, is traditionally
made by hand and then steamed twice in a special two-tiered
pot called a couscousière.
Each country seasons couscous differently. Moroccans
use saffron, which creates a yellow-colored dish, and might
top couscous with fish and a sauce of raisins and onions.
Algerians add tomatoes to their couscous, and Tunisians
create a spicy dish with harissa sauce, a hot pepper sauce.
Sweetened with almonds, cinnamon and sugar, or with fruit,
it can even be a dessert.
Elsewhere, precooked dried couscous, the kind found in
most supermarkets, is available either packaged or in bulk. It is
simple to prepare — just add boiling water, let sit, then fluff with a fork. Israeli Couscous: Also known as maftoul or pearl couscous, these
semolina pellets are about the size of peppercorns and will take
It’s important that you know which kind of couscous you are much longer to cook. This type is usually steamed in the traditional
buying, instant or traditional. Traditional will take much longer to long-cooking method. In Western cooking, it is often used as a bed
cook, sort of like the difference between dried beans and canned. for salmon or chicken dishes, or put into salads. Compare with
Middle Eastern tabouli or egg barley.
Couscous Varieties
Lebanese Couscous: Also called maghrabiyeh. It is larger than
Moroccan Couscous: Tiny grains of semolina are about three Israeli couscous —about the size of small peas. This type of couscous
times the size of a grain of cornmeal. This type cooks very quickly. has a nutty flavor profile. It is cooked by soaking in hot water for
Moroccan couscous is bland when cooked in water, a stark canvas 30–45 minutes. Lebanese couscous is most often found at Middle
that needs embellishment. Eastern markets or specialty stores.

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2007 Ingredients & Implements B
Peelers and stationary peelers, only with a different motion — you pull
the blade toward your body, rather than push it away from you.
Peelers can quickly slash carrot strips for a salad or stir-fry,
It lets you remove a substantial amount of peel in a single swoop,
carve thin curls of Parmesan cheese for pasta, slice wide ribbons of
so it’s perfect for vegetables with a large surface area. Its sturdiness
zucchini for a simple sauté, and even shave delicate chocolate curls
enables it to withstand a lot of pressure, so you can drag it forcefully
to adorn a cake.
over thick-skinned vegetables like eggplant or rutabagas.
The peeler is versatile, affordable, efficient and practical; it’s more
manageable than a mandoline, and safer than a knife. A good peeler
Citrus Peeler: Citrus peelers feature a pointed end that cuts through
— a must for every kitchen — needs a blade that slices smoothly
both the peel and the bitter pith, without injury to the fruit’s delicate
into the vegetable and removes only the skin, not the flesh.
flesh. Simply draw the pointed edge of the peeler through the rind
Peelers range from the simplest swivel-action to other, more
to aid in peeling oranges, lemons, limes and grapefruit.
specialized tools, like those designed for removing thick skins from
citrus fruits or from asparagus,
or the classic hand-cranked
gadgets for peeling apples and
potatoes.
The following is a rundown
of the various peelers available
on the market that may help
your customers shave precious
seconds off their prep time:

Swivel-Action Peeler: These


peelers can do almost any job,
but are particularly suited to
removing long strips of peel
from thin-skinned vegetables
and fruits like carrots, potatoes
and apples. The swivel action
also turns corners nicely. To
peel, simply push the blade
away from the body in a rapid-
fire motion.

Stationary Peeler: Before


peelers swiveled, they were
Apple & Potato Peeler: This hand-cranked, old-fashioned gadget
fixed, made from a curved blade into which two long slits with
not only peels apples and potatoes, but slices and cores apples as
sharpened edges were cut. While not as effortless as the swivel
well. To use, spear the apple or potato on a three-tined fork and
peeler (you have to turn the blade to follow the contour of the fruit
turn the crank. This spirals the fruit past a spring-mounted blade
or vegetable), they do give you more control. To use, grasp the
that does the peeling for you.
handle with four fingers and use the thumb of the same hand as
you would a paring knife to both steady the food and pull the peeler
along the surface.

Y-Shaped Peeler: Y-shaped peelers have a straight base that flares


out like a “Y” at the blade. They perform the same task as the swivel

The Gourmet Retailer  2007 INGREDIENTS & implements


2007 Ingredients & Implements B
Specialty Flours & Cheese Tools By Kristin V. Montalvo

Specialty Flours scoured and polished to remove the husk and the bran. After the
malting process has removed the sugar and starch, the remaining
Most people usually think of flour in terms of wheat flour when,
barley (known as malted barley flour), is steam-dried, milled, and
in fact, flour can be ground from a variety of substances — grains,
sifted to provide the finished flour product. Barley flour is low in
legumes, nuts and even some vegetables — into a powdered form
gluten and has a sweet, nutty flavor. Mixed with wheat flour, it gives
that varies from very soft to coarse in texture. Specialty flours
bread a moist, cake-like texture. Barley flour also works well as an
such as whole wheat, rye, oat, buckwheat and soy can be used
ingredient to thicken gravies, sauces and stews.
for making many types of bread,
cakes, pastries, and other types of
baked goods. Most specialty flours
are generally combined with all-
purpose flour in baked products
because they do not have sufficient
gluten to provide the right
amount of elasticity on their own.

Amaranth Flour
A type of flour milled from
seeds obtained from the amaranth
plant. The small, lens-shaped
seed or grain is light tan in color
and provides a very mild tangy,
somewhat peppery or nutty flavor,
which may be quite noticeable
if the flour is not combined with
another flour when preparing
baked foods. It does not have
Buckwheat Flour
to be added to other flours when preparing pastas or flatbreads.
Buckwheat is not really a grain but a seed that comes from the
Amaranth flour can also be used as a food extender, for cookies
edible fruit seed of a plant closely related to rhubarb. Because there
and desserts, or as a side dish similar to potatoes or polenta. It may
are no proteins for gluten, buckwheat adds no structure to the baked
also be added to other foods simply as a means of increasing the
product. Buckwheat flour is most commonly combined with wheat
nutrient value.
flour for pancakes, waffles, blintzes, and in pastas. Buckwheat flour
is a rich source of the amino acid lysine, and it contains high levels
Barley Flour of protein, calcium, magnesium, phosphorous, B vitamins, and
A type of flour made from barley grain. The flour is usually iron. It is an excellent wheat substitute for people who are allergic
produced from “pearled” barley, which refers to barley that has been to gluten (celiac disease).

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2007 Ingredients & Implements B
Cornmeal Rye Flour
This type of specialty flour contains germ and fibrous bran. It’s Rye flour is used extensively in pumpernickel and rye breads. It
characterized by its rich “buttery” flavor, and is often used for can be purchased in light rye to dark rye blends. Due to its low
polenta, cornbread, and muffins. Like wheat flour, cornmeal can be gluten content, it is often mixed with whole wheat flour to increase
purchased in a fine or a coarse ground form. Cornmeal comes in its rising ability. This type of specialty flour yields baked goods that
different colors including white, yellow and blue. Yellow cornmeal are moist and dense.
has more beta carotene than the others, while blue cornmeal has
more protein and turns baked goods purple. Because cornmeal Soy Flour
contains no gluten, it must be blended with wheat flour in order to Soy flour is a cream-colored, strong-flavored flour that is made
form a bread loaf. from roasted soybeans. Soy flour is high in protein and can be added
to wheat flour when making baked goods to boost the protein level
Nut Flours of some products. Baked products made with soy flour brown more
Nut flours come from hazelnuts, almonds and others, and add quickly, so it may be necessary to reduce the baking temperature
flavor and texture to a recipe. You need to experiment in adding depending on the amount used. Among the varieties available are
nut flours to your recipes — you can’t use 100 percent nut flour full-fat, low-fat and defatted soy flour. The more fat (in the form of
because it does not have gluten-forming proteins. Nut flour goes soybean oil) included in the flour, the greater the likelihood that
rancid quickly due to its high oil content, so keep it frozen in an the flour will develop an off flavor if it is not stored properly. Since
airtight bag. No need to thaw before using. soy flour can become packed in its bag or container, always stir it
before measuring. Soy flour can also be used as a thickening agent
Oat Flour in gravies and sauces.
A flour ground from oat groats, which are hulled and cleaned
oats. Oat flour is also ground from rolled oats or oatmeal. Oat flour Whole Wheat Flour
adds texture and a rich, nutlike flavor to breads and other baked Whole wheat flour is brown in color and is derived from the
goods. Using oat flour results in baked items that are moist and more complete wheat kernel (the bran and germ). Whole wheat flour
crumbly and they retain their freshness longer than items baked provides increased fiber, vitamins and minerals, and when used in
with wheat flour. Oats contain soluble fiber, which can help lower bread baking, it gives a hearty, nutty flavor and a denser texture
blood cholesterol levels when eaten as part of a low-cholesterol diet. when compared to all-purpose flour. Because bread does not rise
As flour, it can be mixed with other flours derived from grains such as high in whole wheat breads, a mixture of both whole wheat and
as buckwheat, rice, or corn meal to create breads with interesting white flour is often recommended when baking. While whole wheat
flavors and textures. flour is more nutritious that white flour, it does have a shorter shelf
life as the higher oil content leads to quicker spoilage, especially
Potato Flour when stored in warm or humid areas. To prevent spoilage, simply
A type of flour produced from cooked, dried and ground potatoes, store in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator or freezer.
it is used as an ingredient in potato-based recipes to enhance the Whole wheat flours are also classified by the amount of protein they
potato flavor and is often mixed with other types of flour for baking contain. Wheat flours made from soft whole wheats are relatively
breads and rolls. It is also used as a thickener for soups, gravies low in protein, and are generally used for making cakes, cookies,
and sauces. Potato flour is often confused with potato starch, but pastries, and crackers. Those flours made from hard whole wheats
potato flour is produced from the entire dehydrated potato whereas are higher in protein, and are generally used for quick and yeast
potato starch is produced from the starch only. Potato flour is an breads. Whole wheat flour can be purchased in either a fine ground or
important component in the baker’s arsenal. Unlike wheat flour, it coarse ground texture. Whole wheat flour may also be referred to as
is hygroscopic — that is, it attracts water instead of drying out. So “entire wheat flour,” “100 percent extraction flour,” or “graham flour.”
the staling process in breads is retarded or slowed. One tablespoon It is important to read the label carefully when purchasing whole
of potato flour to two cups of wheat flour will extend the life of your wheat flour, as some designations can be misleading. Flour labeled
bread and keep it moist. as “enriched flour with bran” may have the appearance of whole
wheat flour, but is not true whole wheat flour.

The Gourmet Retailer  2007 INGREDIENTS & implements


2007 Ingredients & Implements B
Cheese Tools against the food, which is held in place by the pressure of a plate.
A good rotary grater should have a cranking mechanism that
Given the fact that there exists an endless variety of cheeses, it’s
provides a smooth roll.
only natural that the equipment for dealing with them does, too.
Whether you’re slicing through a large, firm wheel of cheese, grating
Cheese Knives
a dusting of Parmesan cheese for a dish, or cutting neat wedges of
A number of different knives are available to properly cut or
Gruyere for a cheese tray, there exists an appropriate cheese tool for
apportion cheese. Some blades are shaped like an aspen leaf or heart
the task at hand.
and are good for piercing through hard cheeses like Parmigiano-
Reggiano or pecorino. Others are shaped like a putty knife or a
Cheese Graters
wide-bladed spatula, and are useful for soft varieties like Brie or
There are two types available for cheese grating purposes
for creamy spreads. A wide-edged blade will aid in cutting crumbly
— hand graters and rotary graters. The most familiar of hand
blues or semihard cheeses like Emmentaler. Still others are simply
graters, the box grater, has been around for hundreds of years,
an offset blade that’s either etched or replete with holes, allowing for
and will probably still be around for hundreds more. Most box
complete, even cheese slicing.
graters consist of four different grades of grating
surfaces which operate by rubbing food (and
Cheese Cutters
sometimes your knuckles) over the sharply
Hard cheeses are odd in that the
perforated surface. Like a nice aged Parmigiano-
thinner they’re sliced, the more
Reggiano, time has definitely helped improve
flavorful they are. And while it might
and refine these devices. Newer models are much
not seem so, thinly slicing cheese is
sturdier and made of noncorrosive material.
a difficult task. Cheese planes, in one
Some even incorporate up to six grating sides
smooth stroke, take the guesswork
including coarse and medium shredders, fine
out of how to achieve the perfectly
and extra-fine graters, a slicer, and a julienne-
sliced piece of cheese. It’s shaped
cut blade.
something like a spatula, although
Good rotary graters, mechanical but not
with a sharp blade in its center.
electric, are faster, more efficient, and more
Drawn across a block of cheese, it
expensive than hand graters. They operate in
can neatly peel off a thick or thinly
the reverse fashion: the cutting surface is rubbed
shaven slice.
Some cheeses, like Havarti and
Monterey Jack, are too soft to cut
with a knife; the slices tend to stick
to the blade and end up mashed.
A wire cheese slicer, on the other
hand, cuts cheese thinner than knives can
and without the added pressure. To use a wire
cheese slicer, you grasp its handle, place the
roller on the cheese, and pull it backwards
as the stainless-steel wire cuts a slice. The
pressure from the roller makes the cheese firm
enough to cut without sticking to the wire and
bunching up. Some wire cheese slicers are
also adjustable, so you can vary the thickness
of the slices.

The Gourmet Retailer  2007 INGREDIENTS & implements


2007 Ingredients & Implements B
Specialty Honey & Home Coffee Roasters
By Kristin V. Montalvo

Specialty Honey
Honey is a very sweet, thick fluid produced by honeybees
from flower nectar. A natural sweetener that is used in many
food dishes to increase the intensity of the flavor desired for
the food, honey is available in a range of colors, a variety of
flavors, and in several different forms.
According to the National Honey Board, honey is primarily
composed of fructose, glucose and water. It also contains
other sugars, as well as trace enzymes, minerals, vitamins and
amino acids.
The color and flavor of honey differs depending upon the
nectar source (the blossoms) visited by the honeybees. In
fact, there are more than 300 unique types of honey available
in the United States, each originating from a different floral
source.
Honey color ranges from nearly colorless to dark brown,
and its flavor varies from delectably mild to distinctively bold,
depending on where the honeybees buzzed. As a general rule,
light-colored honey is milder in taste and dark-colored honey is Alfalfa
stronger. Alfalfa honey, produced extensively throughout Canada and
It’s important to note that while some honeys taste exactly like the United States from the purple blossoms, is light in color with
their source — buckwheat honey tastes exactly like buckwheat a pleasingly mild flavor and aroma.
— a honey does not necessarily taste like the fruit of the plant.
Blueberry honey does not necessarily taste like blueberries, or Avocado
raspberry honey like raspberries, etc. Honeys are based on the Avocado honey is gathered from California avocado blossoms.
nectar of the flower, not on the infusion of the fruit of the plant. Avocado honey is dark in color, with a rich, buttery taste.
When categorized for use, alfalfa, clover and orange blossom are
general purpose honeys that can be used for baking, sweetening, Blueberry
desserts, and candy. For the preparation of sauces, marinades and Taken from the tiny white flowers of the blueberry bush, the
dressings, avocado, eucalyptus, lavender, sage, thyme, and tupelo nectar makes a honey which is typically light amber in color and
honeys are milder varieties that work well for use in flavoring with a full, well-rounded flavor.
food seasonings. The stronger honeys, such as buckwheat and
chestnut, are best when used for earthy or savory dishes requiring Buckwheat
a stronger flavor. Buckwheat honey is dark and full-bodied, with a strong
Following is a look at some of the most common U.S. floral buckwheat, malty flavor. It has been found to contain more
honey varieties. antioxidant compounds than some lighter honeys.

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Chestnut Forms of Honey
Chestnut honey is dark and strong. It has a nutty and spicy Most of us know honey as a sweet, golden liquid. But, in fact,
profile, with a bitter aftertaste. honey can be found in a variety of forms.

Clover Comb Honey


Clover honey has a pleasing, mild taste. Clovers contribute more Comb honey is honey that comes as it was produced — in the
to honey production in the United States than any other group of honeybees’ wax comb. The comb, as well as the honey, is edible.
plants. Red clover, Alsike clover, and the white and yellow sweet
clovers are most important for honey production. Depending on Cut Comb
the location and type of source clover, clover honey varies in color Cut comb honey is liquid honey that has added chunks of the
from water white to light amber to amber. honeycomb in the jar. Also known as liquid-cut comb combination.

Eucalyptus Liquid Honey


Eucalyptus honey comes from one of the larger plant genera, Free of visible crystals, liquid honey is extracted from the
containing over 500 distinct species and many hybrids. As may be honeycomb by centrifugal force, gravity or straining. Because
expected with a diverse group of plants, eucalyptus honey varies liquid honey mixes easily into a variety of foods, it’s especially
greatly in color and flavor but tends to be a stronger-flavored convenient for cooking and baking. Most of the honey produced
honey with a slight medicinal scent. in the United States is sold in the liquid form.

Fireweed Naturally Crystallized Honey


Fireweed honey is light in color and comes from a perennial Naturally crystallized honey is that part of the natural glucose content
herb that creates wonderful bee pastures in the Northern and that has spontaneously crystallized from solution as the monohydrate.
Pacific states and Canada. Fireweed grows in the open woods,
reaching a height of three to five feet, and sports attractive pinkish Whipped (or Creamed) Honey
flowers. While all honey will crystallize in time, whipped honey (also
known as creamed or sugared honey) is brought to market in a
Orange Blossom crystallized state. The crystallization is controlled so that, at room
Orange blossom honey, often a combination of citrus sources, temperature, the honey can be spread like butter. In many countries
is usually light in color and mild in flavor, with a fresh scent and around the world, whipped honey is preferred to the liquid form.
light citrus taste.
Storing Honey
Sage Because storing honey in the refrigerator accelerates the
Sage honey is light in color, heavy-bodied and has a mild but honey’s crystallization (crystallization is the natural process by
delightful flavor. It is extremely slow to granulate, making it a which liquid in honey becomes solid), it’s best to store honey at
favorite among honey packers for blending with other honeys to room temperature — a kitchen counter or pantry shelf is ideal.
slow down granulation. Honey stored in sealed containers can remain stable for decades
and even centuries. However, it tends to darken and lose its aroma
Tupelo and flavor over time. This is a temperature-dependent process,
Tupelo honey is a premium honey produced in northwest making the shelf life of honey difficult to define. For practical
Florida. It is heavy-bodied and is usually light golden amber with purposes, a shelf life of two years is often stated.
a greenish cast and a mild, distinctive taste. Because of the high If your honey crystallizes, simply place the honey jar in warm
fructose content in Tupelo honey, it granulates very slowly. water and stir until the crystals dissolve. Or place the honey in a
microwave-safe container with the lid removed and microwave it,
Wildflower stirring every 30 seconds, until the crystals dissolve. Be careful not
Wildflower honey is often used to describe honey from to boil or scorch the honey.
miscellaneous and undefined flower sources. Source: National Honey Board, www.honey.com.

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Home Coffee Roasters off while the coffee beans continue to rotate during the cool down
process. When the cool down stage is complete, the beans are poured
People often wonder what the secret is to achieving that fresh-
into a hopper. The advantage of using a drum roaster is that it can
roasted coffee taste at home. While buying whole bean coffee and
roast about a half-pound of beans at a time, but it does require a bit
grinding the beans right before you’re set to brew a pot of Joe will
more attention during the roast process than an air roaster.
get you one step closer to coffee nirvana, the real secret is to start
with green coffee beans (unroasted
beans) and roast them yourself Stovetop Popcorn Popper
at home. You see, the closer the Although these poppers were
roasting process is to the brewing originally designed for stovetop
process, the more flavorful the cup popcorn popping, they also work
of coffee will be. well for stovetop coffee roasting.
The home coffee roaster has Stovetop roasting is economical
the flexibility to enjoy their own for first-time coffee roasters, but
preference of roast styles and even it should be noted that much
experiment with creating their more effort is required than using
own blends based on personal a roasting appliance because you
preference. Plus, purchasing green have to manually crank the handle.
coffee beans is quite economical You control the temperature, time
— typically half the cost per pound and movement of the beans entirely
of roasted beans. by hand. Stovetop poppers can
There are many ways to roast efficiently roast up to one pound of
coffee, from home appliances made specifically for this purpose, green coffee beans in 8–10 minutes.
to simple pan roasting.
There are basically two types of home coffee roasters on the Overview of the Roasting Process
market today: fluid bed and drum roasters. • For the first few minutes, the beans remain greenish, then turn
lighter yellowish and emit a grassy smell.
Fluid Bed Roasters • The beans start to steam as their internal water content
Fluid bed roasters, also known as hot air roasters, roast the dissipates.
beans as they tumble on a current of hot air. In this process, the • The steam becomes fragrant. Soon you will hear the “first
beans are roasted over very high temperatures (400 degrees and crack,” an audible cracking sound as the real roasting starts to
up). After roasting, the heat is cut off and the cool-down process occur: sugars begin to caramelize, bound-up water escapes, the
begins. The beans continue to tumble until they are cool. structure of the bean breaks down, and oils migrate from their
These popular roasters are inexpensive, roast a batch in 7–20 little pockets outward.
minutes, and are easy to clean and maintain. Fluid bed roasters are • After the first crack, the roast can be considered complete any
similar in design to a hot-air popcorn popper, except they perform time according to your taste. The cracking is an audible cue, and,
at a much higher temperature. Most fluid bed roasters have a glass along with sight and smell, tells you the stage of the roast.
roasting chamber that allows you to watch as the roast develops, • Caramelization continues, oils migrate, and the bean expands in
and stop it as desired. A batch from these roasters yields between size as the roast becomes dark.
8–20 cups, depending on how you make your coffee (strength of • At this point, a “second crack” can be heard, often more volatile
coffee and type of brewer). than the first.
• As the roast becomes very dark, the smoke is more pungent as
Drum Roasters sugars burn completely, and the bean structure breaks down
Drum-type coffee roasters roast the green coffee beans in a more and more.
cylinder-type drum. The green coffee beans tumble as the drum • Eventually, the sugars burn completely, and the roast will only
rotates over heat. When the desired roast is achieved, the heat shuts result in a thin-bodied cup of “charcoal water.”

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Biscotti & Cutting Boards
By Kristin V. Montalvo

Biscotti butter enhanced


cookie results in
Originally from Italy, biscotti are oblong, thick, brittle cookies
a more tender
designed to complement dunks in coffee, cocoa, or wine. A dip in
shortbread-like
a warm beverage softens the cookie, making it easier to chew and
texture, while those
enjoy. The word biscottio, known as biscotti today, gets its name
without butter are
from “bis” (twice) and “cotto” (cooked) or roughly translated, “twice
drier and harder.
baked” and derives from the traditional method of baking them
The butterless ones don’t easily disintegrate when dipped and are
long enough to make them dry and crunchy. When Italians first
best served with a cup of coffee or tea, or a glass wine or port in
created biscotti in the region of Tuscany many centuries ago, they
which to dip them.
would shape the dough into long slabs, cutting it into half-inch thick
cookies, and bake them once again to dry out. Because this very
hard, barely risen cookie could be stored for long periods of time, Cutting Boards
they were historically used by explorers, soldiers and fisherman. Almost any meal preparation requires some degree of chopping
Traditional biscotti were almond flavored, as almonds were and slicing of ingredients on cutting boards, of which there are
plentiful and readily available in Italy and nearby countries. From many to choose from. Cutting boards are classified as a hard
the almond recipe of Tuscany, the recipe expanded to feature surfaced kitchen tool that is generally made of wood, bamboo,
ingredients such as anisette-, amaretto- and lemon-flavored dough. plastic, acrylic or glass and is used as a surface for cutting, slicing,
Soon, other European countries adapted the twice-baked recipes chopping, or mincing food products.
as their own, adding favorite spices and special ingredients. These days, cutting boards come in a wide variety of thicknesses,
Some crisp and crunchy, others soft and easy to bite into, today’s shapes and sizes to fit a variety of different preparation and
biscotti come in a virtual smorgasbord of flavors. In fact, the storage needs. Some cutting boards even contain a groove around
traditional flavors of this Italian-born cookie have taken somewhat the entire surface of the board, which allows food juices to be
of a back seat to today’s creative, sometimes wild, but generally retained so they don’t spill onto the adjacent surfaces.
wonderful variety of biscotti. Rather than almonds, biscotti Each type of cutting board has its pros and cons,
might contain chopped walnuts, cashews, pistachios or hazelnuts. mostly related to issues involving cleaning & sterilizing,
Chocolate slivers, carob chips, or dried cranberries and cherries maintenance, and the wear and tear on your kitchen knives.
might dot a cookie flavored with spices such as allspice, mace, Whatever cutting board you choose, it’s important to keep it clean
ginger, cinnamon, anise, or vanilla. Even more decadent biscotti, and in good shape to avoid any contamination of food coming
perhaps with orange zest or mint, are coated in white chocolate, into contact.
milk or dark chocolate or even caramel icing. Like other cookies, Scrubbing your board with hot soapy water is a must and should
biscotti can be ornately decorated for special occasions. They are be done immediately after use. To avoid cross contamination it’s
usually made in a 3” size, a 5” size, and a 7” size, the latter commonly advisable to keep a separate board for cutting raw meats, poultry
reserved for coffee shops, cafes and ice cream parlors. and seafood. This ensures that no bacteria from uncooked meat
While there are hundreds of recipes for biscotti throughout the juices will come in contact with cooked meats or raw vegetables.
world, other than flavoring (biscotti can also be subtly-sweet or
savory) they fall into two distinct categories — those made with Wooden Cutting Boards
butter and those made without butter or any shortening. The Wooden cutting boards are generally thought to be the best of

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the cutting board options available. They are easier on kitchen absorb any liquid or juices from foods and vegetables. Colored
knives than other types, can last forever with the proper care, and plastic cutting boards are commonly made of a poly-substance
are an attractive addition to your kitchen. that is soft and not damaging to knives, as well as washable and
Most wooden cutting boards are made of hardwoods, usually dishwasher safe for thorough cleaning. Many kitchens have
maple. There are three types to choose from with the difference several of these boards for cutting specific food items such as
being in the way the wood is cut and assembled: end grain, edge meat, vegetables, bread and fruit. These cutting boards are good
grain and flat grain. for general kitchen use and light and easy to pack for camping,
End grain boards tend to be strongest and resist warping boating and picnics.
the most. Edge grain boards are lighter but still quite strong. Cleaning these boards can be done in the dishwasher, but thin
Flat grain boards are weak and warp easily and are usually not boards may warp due to the heat. If cleaning by hand they should
recommended for heavy use. be scrubbed in hot, soapy water, rinsed and dried. They should
The number one issue with a wood board is keeping it clean. be replaced when scratches and gouges appear on the surface as
Because the wood surface is porous, juices can easily soak into the bacteria can hide and be difficult to remove.
wood, causing a potential bacteria problem. When cleaning your
wooden cutting board, don’t immerse the board in water. Instead, Acrylic Cutting Boards
sponge it off with warm, soapy water. Dry it thoroughly. Acrylic cutting boards are an attractive option if you’re looking
Heat, moisture and dryness can cause warping and splitting for a low maintenance, tough, and easy to clean cutting surface for
of your board as they age. Periodic use of a food-safe or food- your kitchen. These durable boards can also be used for holding
grade mineral oil helps to restore the cutting board. The oil can be hot pots or casserole dishes on your table or countertop.
rubbed into the wood to lengthen the life of the board and assist The main drawback with these strong surfaces, of course is
with keeping the board from drying out after repeated washings the wear and tear on your kitchen knives. These hard surfaced
with water and solvents. boards will dull your knives much quicker than the softer surfaces
of wood cutting boards. Serrated knives will last longer but will
Bamboo Cutting Boards eventually have to be replaced. Your board, however will last a
Bamboo cutting boards are becoming quite popular because very long time.
they are made from a strong, light and ecologically sound product. Although these boards are harder on your knives than wood
Bamboo is actually a grass, with over 1000 different species found cutting boards, they need no upkeep other than cleaning and
worldwide. It’s one of the fastest growing plants on the planet, sterilizing. They require no sanding or oiling, just the usual good
growing up to 2 feet per day, making it a viable alternative to trees kitchen hygiene.
as a natural resource.
It’s also a very tough plant, about 16 percent harder than maple, Glass Cutting Board
which makes it an ideal material for making many items for the A clear glass cutting board is inexpensive, strong, attractive, durable
kitchen such as bowls, chopsticks, flatware, plates, serving trays and dishwasher safe. The best quality of these cutting boards is that
and of course, cutting boards. they are resistant to scratches making them more sanitary than wood
Bamboo cutting boards are easy to maintain, light and or plastic boards. The good sanitary qualities of these boards make
inexpensive. Cleaning should be done with hot soapy water, them a good choice for cutting meat, seafood and poultry products.
and wiped dry after rinsing. Do not let water sit on the board, The main drawback to glass cutting boards is that they are
immerse it in the sink, or put in the dishwasher. It should be extremely hard on your knives. It will dull knives quickly with heavy
wiped down periodically with mineral oil to preserve the finish. usage. It’s generally recommended to use inexpensive disposable
knives rather than your expensive good knives with these boards.
Plastic Cutting Boards The other thing to consider is that when cutting on such a hard
Buying a cutting board made of plastic is the least expensive surface it’s possible for the knife to slip and cause an injury.
option, making it an excellent value for the budget conscious One of the best uses for a glass cutting board is as a trivet for
consumer. Today you can find plastic cutting boards in a wide hot casserole dishes on your dinner table or on your countertop
array of sizes, shapes and colors. One advantage in using a for hot pots and pans. The tempered glass they are made with is
plastic cutting board is that it’s non-porous, meaning it will not almost bulletproof.

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Foie Gras & Specialty Seafood Tools
By Kristin V. Montalvo

Foie Gras Goose


Foie Gras is the liver of the duck or goose that has been fattened Goose foie gras
by means of force-feeding. The name actually means “fatty liver” has a very smooth
in French. Though thought to be French in origin, and the name and creamy silk-
is certainly French, the process of overfeeding water birds to like texture. Its
produce a fatty liver and a foie gras-type substance has been in flavor is rich, subtle
practice for thousands of years. and sophisticated.
It is believed that the first types of foie gras may have been made However, it is more
in Egypt where Egyptians noticed the rich taste of the livers of expensive and less
migrating geese, which stopped in the Nile region to eat large available than duck
amounts of figs before continuing their migration north. To foie gras.
reproduce this taste, they began force-feeding domesticated geese
with figs. Duck
From the Egyptians, this process spread to the Greeks and Duck foie gras has
then the Romans, although how the tradition spread to Europe a more rustic texture
is somewhat in dispute. Some culinary historians believe that and flavor, and an
Gallic peasants preserved the method after the fall of the Roman earthier and more
Empire. Yet others believe that the Jews residing in Israel under pronounced taste. It
Roman occupation may have used the method. also has a stronger aroma. Best for hot preparations.
The livers used for foie gras in the U.S. are typically from a
Moulard duck, which is a cross between a Muscovy and a Peking Country of Origin
duck. Ducks or geese raised to produce foie gras have been  Foie gras is produced in a number of countries including
induced to eat greater amounts of food, particularly corn, without Hungary, the U.S. and Canada, but France is generally regarded
excessive exercise in order to naturally increase the size of their as producing the best quality. It has the longest tradition of foie
liver, which commonly becomes three to four pounds in size. gras production, and is the main producer and consumer of this
Once the liver is removed, it is often soaked in a solution of product. The main production area in France is the southwest, in
wine, water and milk to prepare it to be consumed. It is then particular the region of Gascony. In America, one of the earliest
marinated again in a blend of seasonings with wine (usually regions to produce foie gras was the Hudson Valley of New York.
Armagnac, Madeira or Port wine) and baked, being careful not to
let it shrink significantly while being cooked. Foie Gras by Preparation

Types of Foie Gras Foie Gras Entier


Foie gras is produced from the fatty liver of a goose or a duck. Whole liver of duck (canard) or goose (oie), cooked and preserved,
Which is best depends partly on individual preference. usually in a block, and containing no extra additives or mixes.

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Bloc of Foie Gras that are wide enough to crack the claw and which provide a firm
Smaller pieces of duck or goose foie gras whipped and condensed grip on the slippery joints above the claw.
together into a block. A block of cooked foie gras is made up of Fish Bone Tweezers: A perfect seafood meal can be ruined when
smaller pieces which have been pressed together. It may contain you end up “fishing” out bones between bites. Fish bone tweezers
water and seasoning but must be a minimum of 98 percent foie will help quickly and easily remove pesky bones and such from
gras. The better grades are labeled “bloc de foie gras avec morceaux,” whole fish. These are best suited for smaller fillets.
which is “block of foie gras with pieces of foie gras.” Traditional
recipes may include the addition of truffles. Fish Bone Pliers: Large fillets such as salmon often have
hidden rows of bones. Knives can be too crude to extract them
Mousse of Foie Gras and tweezers do not have the gripping power to cope with large
Pieces of foie gras ground or pureed together into a smooth bones. Tapered, finely tooled stainless steel pliers are just right for
preparation whipped into a mousse. May contain other items such as the job. Strong yet precise, a good pair of fish bone pliers should
water or crème fraîche, but must be minimum 50 percent foie gras. have a serrated jaw to provide a good grip and enough leverage
for a solid yank.
Pate de Foie Gras
Usually foie gras combined with other meat products, like pork, Shrimp Deveiner: Anyone who has cooked fresh shrimp knows
duck or veal. The content of foie gras is less than other products. that peeling and deveining is extremely time-consuming. Usually
It is a smooth, consistent spread-like block, which is often served constructed of sturdy plastic, a shrimp deveiner permits easy removal
with crackers or toast. of the shell and vein in just seconds with one swift motion.

Semi-Cooked Pasteurized Foie Gras or Micuit Fish Scaler: The serrated edges of these tools are useful for
This foie gras is partially cooked and preserved in order to retain scraping off the pesky scales of a fish.
as much of the original consistency, texture, and flavor as possible.
Shellfish Knives: Manufacturers have designed knives to open
Fully Cooked Foie Gras oysters, clams, scallops and hard-shell crabs. A good shellfish knife
The most traditional way to prepare foie gras, fully cooked foie will have two distinct features: rigidity and shortness. The former
gras is preserved in its own fat and sterilized; this type of foie gras provides the leverage needed to pry open the resilient creature, while
will be stored in a cool dark place for a long period of time. Often the latter allows the close contact needed to open shellfish carefully.
packaged in tubes or a classic farm-style jar. There are, however, variations on the theme: some blades have a
tapered rather than rounded tip; some have a cutting edge while
Specialty Seafood Tools others are dull; and some, like the crab knife, feature a centered hole
Seafood preparation is easier when you use specialized tools. to separate flesh from cartilage on a crab leg.
There are implements that are drawn over fish skin to remove those
pesky scales; little nippers that can easily lift the shells off shrimp Oyster Glove: Constructed from stainless steel mesh, an oyster
while removing the black vein; crackers that crack the claws of glove offers protection from your oyster knife, which can easily
lobster and crab; and shellfish knives that pry open the most slip in the shucking process. Designed to fit either hand, the mesh
stubborn of creatures. glove is intended for use with oysters but would be suitable for
Whatever the task at hand, seafood tools made of stainless steel and any operation that requires hand protection — such as boning or
noncorrosive materials are best (plastic, if sturdy enough, can be used filleting meat or fish, or even slicing bagels.
for some high-quality tools). While you might not use specialty seafood
tools on a daily basis, investing in these handy helpers will help make Seafood Forks and Spoons: Usually made of stainless steel, most
seafood preparation easier and less time-consuming. The following are seafood forks feature a narrow fork to get inside the shellfish and a
the essential tools every well-stocked kitchen should have. spoon to dish out the meat. Also good for clams and oysters on the
half shell, crab, and escargot.
Lobster and Crab Cracker: Use this tool to break open lobster or
crab shells without destroying the edible insides. Look for crackers Source: The New Cooks’ Catalogue

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Rice & Woks
By Kristin V. Montalvo

Rice
According to archeological evidence, rice has been feeding
two-thirds of the world’s population for more than 5,000
years. The first recorded decree on rice planting was made in
China in 2800 B.C. From China, rice migrated west to Greece
then on through Persia to the Nile Delta, eventually making
its way into the United States just over 300 years ago. Asia
supplies most of the world’s rice and most of the rice produced
in the United States is grown in the lower Mississippi valley
and California. Over half of the rice produced in the United
States is exported.
Worldwide, there are more than 40,000 different varieties
of rice. In fact, at the International Rice Research Institute moister and stickier consistency than long-grain rice. Medium-
Genetic Resources Centre in the Philippines, there are 80,000 rice grain rice is ideal for risottos, desserts and puddings.
samples in cold storage.
Rice comes in many shapes and colors. As well as being a Long-Grain Rice
versatile accompaniment to any meal, it has matured into the Grains are slender and typically four to five times as long as
main course with the popularity of such international dishes as they are wide and should be at least 3/8 inch (7 mm) in length.
paella, jambalaya, sushi and risotto. Long-grain rice cooks into fluffy, separate grains and is often used
in entrees, soups and pilafs, or as a side dish.
Types of Rice
One of the most common methods of classifying rice is by Sweet Rice
length: short-, medium-, or long-grain. It may be either brown or This type of white rice is short and plump with a chalky white,
white, depending on how it is processed. opaque kernel. When cooked, sweet rice loses its shape and
is very glutinous. Sweet rice is more often used in commercial
Short-Grain Rice product formulations. The starch and flour from sweet rice is
Short-grain rice has an almost round appearance. Short-grain used in frozen products as a binder for gravies, sauces, and fillings
varieties are typically less than 1/4 inch (4-5 mm) long and 1/8 because it is resistant to breakdown during freezing and thawing,
inch (2.5 mm) wide. These varieties become noticeably starchy/ unlike some corn or wheat starches.
sticky when cooked. In general, short-grain rice absorbs less water
than long-grain rice and is a perfect grain for sushi. Aromatic Rices
These have a flavor and aroma similar to that of roasted nuts
Medium-Grain Rice or popcorn. The natural compound that gives aromatic rice the
Wider and shorter than long-grain rice, these rice varieties are characteristic aroma and flavor is present in all rice, but in the
generally two to three times longer than wide and average about aromatic varieties, it is present in much higher concentrations.
1/4 inch (5 to 6 mm) in length. Cooked medium grains have a The most popular domestically grown aromatic rices include:

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della, which cooks dry, separate and fluffy; jasmine, which cooks presence of bran layers which are rich in minerals and vitamins,
more moist and tends to cling together; and basmati, which especially the B-complex group.
cooks into very long, slender grains which are dry, separate, and
fluffy. Specialty Varieties of Rice

Arborio Rice Aromatic Red Rice


This is a large, bold rice with a characteristic white dot at the This has a deep, honey-red bran. Like brown rice, it is minimally
center of the grain. By way of length/width ratio and starch processed to retain its bran layers, and takes 45 to 50 minutes to
characteristics, it is classified as a medium-grain rice. Primarily prepare. Cooked grains have a savory, nutty flavor and are slightly
used in risotto, this rice develops a creamy texture around a chewy chewy.
center and has exceptional ability to absorb flavors.
U.S. Basmati Rice
Forms of Rice An aromatic long-grain rice that has a distinctive aroma and
The influx of convenience foods has brought consumers rice flavor similar to that of popcorn or roasted nuts. When cooked,
in bags, cans and cartons. Rice can be purchased cooked or it swells only lengthwise, resulting in long slender grains that are
uncooked, canned, dehydrated, and also frozen. Few foods are dry, separate and fluffy.
packaged so extensively and are offered in so many combinations
as rice. To meet the many special requirements of packaged foods, Small Basmati
rice undergoes varying degrees of processing, including regular- Known as Kalijira from Bangladesh, this is a miniature basmati
milled, parboiled, precooked, and brown. and can be cooked like basmati. This is a small rice which is non-
glutinous.
Regular-Milled White
Regular-milled white rice, often referred to as “white” or Indian Basmati Rice
“polished” rice, is the most common form of rice. The outer husk Indian Basmati rice is also an aromatic rice, but has a very
is removed, and the layers of bran are milled until the grain is different aroma and taste from Thai Jasmine. Some people
white. describe its aroma as popcorn-like. This rice is grown in the
northern Punjab region of India and Pakistan, and commands the
Parboiled Rice highest price of any variety of rice grown in the world. This rice
Rough rice that has gone through a steam-pressure process has a high amylose content and a firm almost dry texture when
before milling. This procedure gelatinizes the starch in the grain, properly cooked.
and ensures a firmer, more separate grain. Parboiled rice is
favored by consumers and chefs who desire an extra fluffy and Della, Delrose, and Delmont
separate cooked rice. These varieties combine the qualities of regular long-grain rice
and basmati rice. They have an aroma similar to basmati. However,
Precooked Rice cooked grains swell in both length and width, like regular long-
White or brown rice that has been completely cooked and grain rice.
dehydrated after milling. This process reduces time required for
cooking. Black Japonica
An aromatic rice with a dark black bran. Like brown rice, it
Brown Rice is minimally processed to retain its bran layers and takes 45 to
Brown rice is simply white rice that has not had the bran 50 minutes to prepare. Cooked grains are slightly chewy with a
covering the rice grains removed. Any rice, including sticky subtle sweet spiciness.
rice, long-grain rice, or short-grain rice, may be eaten as brown
rice. Cooked brown rice has a slightly chewy texture and a nut- China Black Rice
like flavor. The light brown color of brown rice is caused by the This type of rice has excellent texture, color and flavor. It has

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a nutty taste, soft texture, and beautiful rich deep purple color. and good width to prevent it from falling through the hole into
Enjoy with a curry, sweet and sour dish of stir-fry. the fire. The pan slopes to the rim so heat at the bottom can
radiate evenly to the sides, but also because the shape enables
Jasmine Rice ingredients to fall to the center, where the heat is concentrated.
A long-grain variety of rice that has a nutty aroma and subtle Most traditional woks have two side handles.
flavor.This is an excellent white rice that can be interchanged with For use in most American kitchens with their flat surface
white basmati rice for variety. It is slightly sticky when compared burners, a classic, round-bottom wok may not be stable enough
to basmati, which is not sticky at all. Jasmine rice is grown in and should only be used on gas ranges together with a metal ring
Thailand. A good choice for cooking Thai curries and Vietnamese that mimics the Chinese brazier and supports the wok. On electric
dishes. stoves, the coil touches only a small portion of the metal and can
barely provide adequate heat for stir-frying. Thus, the flat-bottom
Texmati wok was invented.
This rice was created in the United States to mimic basmati The wok comes in various sizes and is made with many types
rice. It is a good rice, but has failed to have all the characteristics of materials, from the humble carbon steel that makes for easy
of basmati. A long-grain rice with a dry, fluffy texture when seasoning, to stainless and state-of-the-art metallic alloys that
cooked. position it in the same category as gourmet label cookware. There
Source: USA Rice Federation are also nonstick woks available to help reduce the amount of
fat needed. Woks come either with two short, ear-like handles,
Woks or with one long handle and one short one. They also come in
The wok is a versatile, round-bottomed cooking vessel differing depths, from shallow to well-rounded and deep.
originating in China. It is most often used for stir-frying, but If you are cooking with a western electric range, your best option
can also be used for sautéing, steaming and deep-frying. In is to use a flat-bottom wok. Round-bottom woks can reflect heat
recent years, woks have become staples in the American home back on the element, damaging it. A flat-bottom wok can also be
kitchen, either the traditional round-bottom style that has been in used on gas stoves.
existence since Chinese cuisine developed, or in one of the many Stir-fry pans, a modern cookware term for any rounded wok-
modern variations, including flat-bottom woks and stir-fry pans. like pan meant for cooking cut-up ingredients over high heat,
The traditional-type wok was designed for the Chinese open are typically smaller than traditional woks. Carbon steel is still
brazier-stove. To fit over the heat source, it has a rounded bottom considered the best metal to use. While stir-fry pans made of
aluminum and anodized aluminum are available, they do not
provide the same amount of control over the heat as
a pan made from carbon steel. Uncoated carbon-steel
and iron woks must be seasoned and dried thoroughly
after being washed, to prevent rusting. Other metals
don’t require special treatment. Seasoning removes
the preservative oil manufacturers place on the wok to
prevent it from rusting, replacing it with a light coating
of cooking oil. Because the methods for seasoning
and cleaning woks depend on the type of coating, first
check the manufacturer’s directions. Most nonstick
coatings need a thorough cleaning and drying, then a
small amount of cooking oil rubbed over the interior
surface. Also, you should never scrub a wok’s nonstick
coating with any type of abrasive. All woks need to be
stored in a well-ventilated place.

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Cinnamon & Teakettles By Kristin V. Montalvo

Cinnamon Cassia cinnamon is native to Burma


With its warm, sweet flavor,
and is a member of the same family as
cinnamon is one of the busiest
true cinnamon, but it has a stronger
workhorses on the spice shelf. Cooks
flavor thus requiring less volume
often use it to flavor baked goods
in recipes. Cassia is usually a better
and drinks, but cinnamon also works
choice for savory dishes, rather than
wonders in stews and sauces.
sweets. Most of the cinnamon sold in
Cinnamon is actually one of
supermarkets in the United States is
the oldest spices in the world and
actually cassia.
has been prized by man since the
Cinnamon and cassia both come
beginning of civilization. Medieval
from the bark of a plant in the laurel
physicians used cinnamon in
family which can grow up to 30 feet
medicines to treat coughing,
tall, but most farms keep them short
hoarseness and sore throats. As a sign
and bushy to make harvesting easier.
of remorse, Roman Emperor Nero
After three years, the bark is peeled
ordered a year’s supply of cinnamon
from the trees during the rainy season
be burnt after he murdered his wife.
and left to dry and ferment for 24
Wars were fought over it, it was used
hours. Then the outer layer of the bark
as currency, and it was one of the
is scraped off, leaving the inner, light-
major factors in the exploration of the
covered bark, which curls into quills
new world, playing a decisive role in
as it dries. Removal of the outer bark makes the cinnamon less
the discovery of America.
biting and mellows the aroma.
Cinnamon is even known to have health benefits. In fact, of all
True cinnamon quills or sticks will be curled in a telescopic
the spices, cinnamon is one of the richest in antioxidants. Studies
form, while cassia quills curl inward from both sides, like a
have shown that people with type 2 diabetes who have as little
scroll. Small pieces of the quills are known as quillings.
as ¼ teaspoon of cinnamon a day can help lower the risk of high
Ground cinnamon is more difficult to distinguish from
cholesterol, triglyceride and glucose levels by 10 to 30 percent.
ground cassia. True cinnamon is tan in color with a warm,
sweet flavor, whereas ground cassia is a reddish brown, usually
Types of Cinnamon coarser in texture, with a more bitter, stronger flavor and a more
There are two common types of cinnamon — Ceylon
aromatic bouquet. Cassia comes in peeled and unpeeled quills,
cinnamon and cassia cinnamon. Ceylon cinnamon is considered
as well as ground.
“true cinnamon” and comes from the island of Ceylon (Sri
Lanka). This product is mainly used in Mexico, Central and Storing Cinnamon
South America. Only a negligible amount is used in the U.S. and Cinnamon should be stored in an airtight container in a dry,
most of that is sold in stick form. cool place, away from heat and light. Excessive heat will dissipate

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the essential oils, and high humidity will tend to “cake” it. It is more advanced types with thermal and water level sensors, the
best to buy small quantities of ground cinnamon as it quickly ability to boil water to a certain degree, and cordless electrical
becomes stale, losing flavor and aroma. You can grind your own teakettles. Cordless electrical teakettles consist of a kettle and
from cinnamon quills using a spice or coffee grinder for best a base. The base has an electrical connection that powers the
flavor or use whole cinnamon quills. heating element in the kettle when the teakettle is placed on the

Teakettles
A teakettle is typically a small kitchen appliance — either
electric or stovetop — used for boiling water. A stovetop
teakettle boils water by being placed over a gas or electrical
stove, while an electrical teakettle is a stand-alone appliance.
Teakettles are not intended to be used for brewing tea;
instead, they are used to first boil the water that goes into
a teapot designed for that purpose. The exception is the
Japanese tetsubin, which can be used both as a teakettle and
as a teapot.

Stovetop Teakettles
Despite the variation in appearance, a stovetop teakettle
basically consists of a handle and a spout. Some teakettles
may have lids that you can remove to pour water into, while
others are filled by pouring water through the spout. Some
teakettles additionally may have a whistle attached, to notify
when the water has reached boiling point.
As it is usually kept in view on the range top, the choice
of teakettle will most likely depend on individual sense
of style. However, as it’s also an item that will be used
frequently, it’s encouraged that you pick up and handle the
kettle before you make a purchase. Remember, if it feels
heavy when empty, it will seem even more so when filled.
Make sure the handle is comfortable even when you lift
it high, as if you were pouring out the very last drops of
water. You should also make sure that the handle is not
made of a material that will heat up during use. base. With this model, you can remove the kettle from its base
and bring it into the dining room for pouring.
Electric Teakettles Regardless of what they’re made of or whether or not
Electric teakettles are self-contained appliances, requiring only they have cords, all good electric teakettles should turn off
a power source and water for usage. Electric teakettles generally automatically when the water comes to a boil and should
boil water at a faster rate and typically use 35 to 40 percent less have a feature to prevent them from boiling dry. Like stovetop
energy than regular stovetop kettles. teakettles, they should not be excessively heavy and should have
Electrical teakettles are usually made of plastic or stainless comfortable handles and lids that are easy to remove for filling
steel. Needles to say, the metal ones are more attractive, but are and cleaning.
also pricier and, unlike the plastic kettles, do not have indicators
telling you exactly how much water remains in the kettle.
Electric teakettles can come in various types. There are
electrical teakettles that simply heat water, and then there are

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Yogurt & Latin Kitchenware Inspirations
By Kristin V. Montalvo

Yogurt criteria which define yogurt:


a) The main ingredient (mammal’s milk),
With a powerhouse of nutritional benefits, along with its flavor
b) The fermenting agents (by type, whether they are living and
and texture nuances, yogurt has become one of the most popular
active, and the amount used) of Streptococcus thermophilus and
products in the dairy case today. In fact, sales of specialty yogurt
Lactobacillus bulgaricus, and
and kefir (a tart, drinkable yogurt) shot up 53.3 percent between
c) The manufacturing process (milk fermentation).
2003 and 2005, to nearly $500 million.
The health benefits of yogurt have long been touted. It is certainly
a good source of B vitamins, protein and calcium, and is much more Following is a rundown of the varieties
digestible than fresh milk. It’s also said to keep the intestinal system of commercial yogurts produced:
populated with good bacteria and, therefore, in healthy condition.
Though yogurt can be made from the milk of many animals Plain Yogurt
— including sheep, goat and water buffalo — cow’s milk is the Plain yogurt is made from whole milk, lowfat or nonfat milk
most commonly used. Yogurt is available in a variety and size without additional flavoring ingredients. Yogurt made from whole
for almost every preference, including fruit-blended, fruit on the milk has at least 3.25 percent milk fat. Lowfat yogurt is made from
bottom, and those with toppings and add-ins. There are also light lowfat milk or part-skim milk, and has between 2 and 0.5 percent
versions sweetened with aspartame for those preferring a lower- milk fat. Nonfat yogurt is made from skim milk and contains less
calorie yogurt. Some of the most interesting additions to the yogurt than 0.5 percent milk fat.
category are those that include cereal and novelty toppings, which
are especially popular with children. Strained or Greek
Yogurt-making is thought to have been originated by nomadic Strained yogurt is a thick type of yogurt which is strained in a cloth
Balkan tribes thousands of years ago, probably first by accident or paper bag or filter, traditionally made of muslin, to remove the
and then as a means of preserving milk. Today, yogurt is made whey, with the consistency of sour cream. Cream is sometimes added
by adding two types of cultures — Lactobacillus bulgaricus and for flavor to the whole-milk variety after straining. Greek yogurt is
Streptococcus thermophilus — to warm milk. The bacteria convert from sheep’s and goat’s milk, but these varieties are not strained. It can
the milk’s sugar to lactic acid, which gives yogurt its unique flavor. be found in varying degrees of fat content, from a luscious 10 percent
Due to the presence of the acid, the proteins change their structure, fat to fat-free which, because of its thick texture, still tastes and feels
forming a delicate gel. like an indulgent and rich treat. Recently, it has become popular in
Other types of cultures, such as L. acidophilus and Bifidus cultures, the U.S., partly because lowfat versions are now made, and so it can
can be found in some yogurts. Yogurt labeled with the phrase function as an alternative to cream in many preparations.
“Made with live and active cultures” contains the live and active
bacteria thought to provide yogurt with its many desirable healthful Flavored Yogurt
properties. Look for the National Yogurt Association’s (NYA) Live Flavored yogurt has sugar and either artificial flavorings or
& Active Cultures seal to ensure that the yogurt you buy contains a natural fruit (or both) added. Some flavored yogurts contain gelatin
significant amount of live and active cultures. or stabilizers for a thicker texture. Fruit-flavored yogurts can either
According to standards of identity finalized by the Food and have the fruit on the bottom (to be mixed in by the consumer) or
Drug Administration (FDA) in 1985, there are three essential be already stirred — in which case, they’re referred to as Swiss- or

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European-style — and are typically of a custard-like consistency. the dish for six hours before the first use (and then occasionally) to
rehydrate the clay. Cazuelas can be used for cooking directly on the
Frozen Yogurt stovetop or in the microwave, and are usually dishwasher-safe. The
Frozen yogurt — which resembles soft-serve ice cream in texture larger cazuelas are a good size for cooking shrimp, fabada bean stew,
— has become very popular and competes head-to-head in some fideua or other traditional dishes; also good for paella, if you do not
markets with ice cream. Frozen yogurt is a non-standardized food have a pan available. The smaller sizes come in handy for serving tapas,
and, therefore, is not subject to Federal composition standards, as like tiny shrimp sizzling in olive oil.
is the case for “yogurt.”
Not all products termed “frozen yogurt” actually contain live Comals
and active cultures. Some so-called “frozen yogurts” use heat- A round, flat griddle on which tortillas are cooked. In Mexico,
treated yogurt, which kills the live and active cultures, or they may comals used over open fires are usually made of unglazed earthenware.
simply add in cultures to the mix along with acidifiers, and skip the Those intended for use with electric and gas heat are more often made
fermentation step all together. To make sure that a frozen yogurt of a light metal, such as tin. The earthenware and thin metal allow fast
contains yogurt produced by traditional fermentation and has a heat penetration, thereby cooking the tortillas quickly — important
significant amount of live and active cultures, look for the NYA Live so they don’t become dry and brittle. They are also used for cooking
& Active Cultures seal. sopes, vegetables, burgers, pancakes, roasting chiles, and more.
Source: National Yogurt Association, www.AboutYogurt.com
Paella Pans
Latin Kitchenware Inspirations Originating from Valencia, Spain, paella is a dish of saffron-
The Latin-American population is the fastest-growing in the flavored rice combined with a variety of meats and shellfish (such
United States. It’s a population rich in cultural diversity with roots as shrimp, lobster, clams, chicken, pork, ham and chorizo), garlic,
reaching back from Cuba to Argentina and everyplace in between. onions, peas, artichoke hearts and tomatoes. While each region in
But this population is especially known for its big, bold and flavorful Spain may have its own adaptation (there are more paella recipes
cuisines, teeming with a fusion of cultures and continents. From out there than there are stars); the common feature is the paella
traditional Spanish paella to a hearty carne guisada puertorriqueña, pan, or paellera.
the following specialty pots, pans and utensils will help you in A good paella pan should have a wide, flat bottom so there is
preparing your favorite recipes anytime. Buen Provecho! plenty of room for the rice to cook in a shallow layer, and two loop
handles on the sides, which slope gently to the rim. Classic paella
Calderos pans are made of carbon steel — but any material that can be used
The word caldero actually means cauldron in English. A caldero for cooking will do — and usually don’t have a lid. Except for the
is a cast iron cooking pot, with a tight-fitting lid. They are available final resting period, paella is always cooked uncovered.
in a variety of sizes and are similar to a Dutch oven. They are Paella pans come in many widths; with many being too big for
typically used for cooking stews, soups, rice and meats. They are a conventional cooktop (classic paella is cooked outdoors over a
even used for frying. Calderos are often used in Puerto Rican fire). You can use an outdoor grill, or to cook inside, straddle the
cuisine, especially when preparing stews. A popular dish cooked in pan over two burners. When it’s done, the custom is to let it rest for
a caldero is carne guisada puertorriqueña (Puerto Rican beef stew). 10 minutes.
The ingredients that flavor the beef vary but might include green
peppers, sweet chile peppers, onions, garlic, cilantro, potatoes, Tostonera
pimento-stuffed olives, capers and even seeded raisins. Also known as a plantain press, they are used to create the classic
Latin side dish known as tostones. They can vary in size and be
Cazuelas made of wood, plastic or metal.
Cazuelas, or terra cotta dishes, have been used in Spain for literally Green plantains are either mashed into discs and deep fried to
thousands of years. They are great for long, slow cooking, holding their make tostones or mashed into balls of mofongo and mixed with
temperature and cooking ingredients evenly. Usually left unglazed on pork or seafood and spices.
the outside so it can absorb both moisture and heat better, a good cazuela Source: The New Cooks’ Catalogue
will have a smooth, glazed interior that is semi-porous. You must soak

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Pickles & Kitchen Scales By Kristin V. Montalvo

Pickles packed whole or cut into halves, spears, sticks, chips, chunks, salad
cubes or relish, or sliced lengthwise for sandwiches.
A pickled cucumber — often simply referred to as a “pickle”
— is a pickled fruit found in many cuisines around the world, and Here is an overview of the various kinds of pickles
probably the most well-known example of pickling for preservation and pickled peppers available:
in Western culture. • Dill – This is the most popular variety of cucumber pickle.
Pickling has been practiced in some form or another for thousands Herb dill or dill oil is added to impart a distinctive and refreshing
of years. Soft-skinned vegetables such as cucumbers, cabbages, beets flavor. There are many types of dill pickles, including:
and peppers are placed in a special brining solution containing • Genuine Dill – These pickles are made by the slow “processed”
vinegar, salt, water, various peppercorns and spices. After several method. Dill weed is added to the tanks during the last stage of
hours, days or even weeks spent in this saltwater bath, much of the fermentation or to the jar after fermentation. These pickles usually
vegetable’s natural juices have been replaced with an acidic brine that have a higher lactic acid flavor than other varieties.
naturally discourages harmful bacterial growth. Most pickles do not • Kosher Dill – In pickle lingo, “kosher” means garlic has been
require refrigeration because of this natural acidity. added to the brine. More robust than regular dill pickles, kosher dills
When most of us hear the word “pickles,” we immediately think are the ultimate accompaniment to an overstuffed deli sandwich.
of cucumbers. By far, cucumbers are • Overnight Dill – Cukes are placed
the most common vegetables converted fresh into brine (which may include
into pickles. Other fruits and vegetables a slight amount of vinegar) for a very
can be pickled, but only cucumbers are short time — one to two days. The entire
marketed as pickles. Not all cucumbers process takes place under refrigeration,
make good pickles, however. The larger and they stay refrigerated when stored
American cucumber variety commonly and shipped. The bright green pickles
found in salads does not usually do well taste like fresh cucumbers accented
during the pickling process. Instead, with dill flavor. They are the kind of
smaller varieties are grown specifically pickle you usually find at a deli.
to become one of the many types of • Other types of dills include Polish
pickles we find on our grocery shelves. and German style.
Most pickles are produced by one of
three methods: refrigerated, fresh-pack Sour/Half-sour – Fresh cucumbers
or processed (also called “cured” or are first placed into a seasoned brine
“fermented”). Each of these methods which doesn’t include vinegar. The
creates distinct flavors and textures. containers are then refrigerated, and
Also, during production, a variety of remain refrigerated when stored and
flavors are achieved by adding different shipped. The longer the cucumbers
herbs, spices and seasonings to the pickle remain in the brine, the more sour they
liquid. Then, each variety is generally become. Half-sour pickles are extra

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crispy and keep their fresh cucumber color. volume as opposed to weight in its recipes. However, the tide may
be turning.
Sweet– Sweet pickles are packed in a sweet mixture of vinegar,
sugar and spices. Here are some variations: Types of Scales
• Bread & Butter – Sweet, thinly-sliced pickles made from There are three basic types of kitchen scales on the market
cucumbers, onions and chopped green or red peppers. They have — spring, balance and digital scales.
a distinct, slightly tangy taste. Available in smooth- or waffle-cut
chips or chunks. Spring Scales
• Candied – These pickles are packed in an extra-heavily Spring scales, as the name implies, use springs to measure
sweetened liquid. weights. An ingredient is placed on the scale’s holding tray, and the
• No-Salt Sweet – These are a relatively new variety of sweet holding tray presses down on the spring, which is attached to a dial
pickle to which no salt has been added. Usually available as chips. or indicator that moves in response to the spring’s compression,
• Sweet/Hot – These are a “hot” new kind of pickle. They’re made and indicates the weight of the item on the tray. Some spring scales
by adding hot spices and seasonings to pickles for a delightful spark allow the position of the indicator to be adjusted. This is useful for
of piquant flavor. resetting the scale to zero after placing an empty bowl on it. This
Source: Pickle Packers International, Inc., a trade association for is called taring the scale. It allows you to weigh only the product
the pickled vegetable industry. www.ilovepickles.org. you put in the bowl, not the bowl itself. It also means that you can
measure one ingredient into the bowl,
Kitchen Scales then tare the scale back to zero and add
Kitchen scales are indispensable a second ingredient without dumping
tools that can be used to weigh baking the first out. This is convenient because
ingredients, meats, poultry, seafood, fruits you can measure and mix in the same
and vegetables for cooking and baking. bowl.
Measurement and, more specifically, There are two types of spring scales
“precise measurement” provides home you are likely to see. The first is a stand-
chefs with added assurance that their up type with either a needle that moves
results will be successful each and every up and down, or a large round dial on
time. Aside from being more accurate, the front to indicate the weight. The
weighing is also easier and less messy second is a low-profile model where
than scooping and leveling ingredients. the dial is built into the base of the
It’s no secret that using a kitchen scale scale. The low-profile type is normally
guarantees precise measurement of much easier to tare. To do so, you just
ingredients, an essential in achieving the rotate the base. The stand-up type
perfect final product. This is especially generally has a small knob on the side
true in baking, where ingredient or back of the scale for taring.
interaction affects the overall consistency
of the baked good. A little extra flour, Balance Scales
not enough baking powder, too much Balance scales determine the weight
oil, and you’ve got a potential culinary of an ingredient by comparing it to
disaster on your hands. Kitchen scales known standard weights. There are
help get the recipes right every time. two basic varieties of this type of scale, and a third that combines
In the U.S., measuring spoons and cups have traditionally played the first two.
the dominant role in kitchens, whereas in Europe, the kitchen scale The first type is the straight balance. This is what you see blind
occupies center stage. Our allegiance to cups and spoons probably justice holding up. The item to be weighed goes on one side, and
stems from having been taught by our mothers and grandmothers one or more standard weights go on the other. If the two sides are
to use these tools. Plus, nearly every cookbook in the U.S. uses in balance, then the item being weighed weighs exactly the same as

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the sum of the weights on the other side. A straight balance is very of ⅛ ounce means that the scale counts up (or displays its
accurate. Some laboratory models are good to a small fraction of a measurements) in increments of ⅛, 2/8, ⅜ . . . and so on. Another
gram. But they are not very practical for the kitchen. scale may have an accuracy resolution of ¼ ounce, meaning it
The second type of balance scale is the sliding scale balance. would count up by fractions like: ¼, ½, ¾, etc. Therefore, you
With this type, there is a single known weight, but you can slide it would never see the display show 1.4 or a reading in decimal
from left to right along a scale until it balances. You have probably points. Accuracy and capacity are the two most important specs
seen one of these in your doctor’s office. These aren’t as absolutely for selecting a scale. They will also play a big role in how much the
accurate as the straight balance, but they are easier to use and there scale will cost. Therefore, you should select a scale based on your
are no little weights to lose. measurement needs.
The third type of balance is the hybrid. It allows you to use Weighing Platform — The size of the scale’s weighing platform
individual weights like a straight balance, but also provides a sliding is another consideration. You want to have a large enough tray area
scale. to hold most of your ingredients — it’s okay if some of it hangs
over the side as long as it is balanced and centered on the platform.
Digital Scales Also, your sample should never rest against anything other than the
Good digital scales provide measurements with high precision scale’s weighing tray, otherwise your readout will be inaccurate.
and are extremely accurate. They are also very easy to use. They Tare — Tare is used to reset the scale to zero. This can be used to
work based on an electrical component called a strain gauge (also weigh items using a container that you set on the scale. To use the
known as a load cell). The resistance of the strain gauge changes Tare function, place the container or tray (tare item) on the scale,
based upon the compression or change in shape of the component. and press the Tare button. Your scale should go to zero, allowing
A simple computer in the digital scale is preloaded at the factory you to now add items to the container and only see the weight
with a table of values that allows it to calculate the weight of a load of those items within it (net weight). It’s really an Add & Weigh
by the change in resistance. Many scales update about once a second, function in an electronic scale.
but better scales will update their readings much faster. This means, Calibration — Calibration is the process of adjusting a scale’s
if you’re pouring sugar into a bowl, the scale will provide almost precision using known weights (calibration weights). Calibration
instantaneous feedback so you don’t pour too much. Most digital should only be performed if your scale is not weighing properly.
scales also have a tare function that allows the user to subtract the Though most mechanical kitchen scales have a reset wheel, true
weight of the container from the measurement. calibration really only applies to commercial “for trade” scales.
After calibration, the scale should display the exact weight that
What to Look For in a Kitchen Scale is placed on the tray (within a certain tolerance), and also revert
When selecting a scale, there are certain things to keep in mind to zero when removing any weight. Some scales do not offer
in order to find the weighing device that best suits you. Here are calibration (such as most postal scales). Typically, a scale calibrates
some useful scale terms to know: at two points: zero and at the end of its span (span calibration).
Capacity — This is the maximum weight that the scale can Calibration Certificate — A Calibration Certificate is a certified
accommodate at one time. The heaviest item that you might document provided by a local Weights and Measures authority
place on the scale should determine what capacity you need. For which provides proof of calibration along with information
example, a scale with an 18-oz./500-g capacity would be suitable about when/where the calibration was performed, and with what
for weighing small items that weigh less than 500 g. This would weights. This service must be performed within the state where
often be termed a “diet scale” due to its small capacity. Most kitchen you will be using your scale. Calibration certification is required
scales offer capacities of 18 oz. – 2 lbs., with digital scales offering for scales which are used to sell goods based on weight. If you are
capacities of 5 lbs., 11 lbs. and 22 lbs. selling goods with your scale, it must be Legal for Trade and have
Accuracy — Accuracy is also identified as Resolution or calibration performed regularly.
Readability. A scale’s accuracy is really its ability to reliably produce Legal for Trade/NTEP Approved — If you will be selling goods
an accurate weight. However, in today’s world of terminology, based off of weight with a scale, it must be Legal for Trade. This
accuracy for many has come to mean the smallest increment of status is given to scales that meet certain guidelines and restrictions
weight that the scale displays (display accuracy). It could actually mandated by the Department of Weights and Measures. This helps
be better termed “resolution.” A scale with accuracy resolution insure that consumers are protected against overcharge.

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Specialty Beers & Coffee Grinders By Kristin V. Montalvo

Specialty Beers
There are four main types of beer — ales, lagers, hybrids
and specialty beers. Ales and lagers are the two main types,
while hybrids are beers that combine elements of ales and
lagers. Specialty beers are either ales, lagers or a hybrid of
the two that contain other ingredients that cause them to
not fit into a true ale or lager style. Specialty beers employ
more unusual ingredients ranging from coffee to nuts to
chocolate to just about anything else you can think of.

Styles of Specialty Beers


Fruit & Vegetable Beers
A beer in this category uses an adjunct of fruit or
vegetable in fermentation, giving the flavor of the beer choices are the Alaskan Smoked Porter, Rhino Chasers Smoked
the unmistakable aroma and taste of that fruit or vegetable Chocolate Porter and Vermont Smoked Porter.
without overtaking the beer itself. Fruits have been used as a beer
adjunct or flavoring for centuries, especially with Belgian lambic Wheat Beers
styles (cherry, raspberry and peach are a common addition to this Brewing with wheat instead of barley is an ancient tradition
style of beer). Fruit-filled examples are the Portland WheatBerry that stretches back to the earliest days of brewing. Traditionally,
Brew, Pyramid Apricot Ale, Marin Blueberry Wheat, Sea Dog wheat beers are cloudy or hazy, though with modern filtration,
Raspberry Wheat Ale and Abita Purple Haze. they can easily be made clear. Wheat beer is distinguished by its
creamy texture and sweet flavor, and some styles have overtones
Herb & Spice Beers of banana and clove. The two most common varieties of wheat
These beers are similar to fruit and vegetable beers, but with beer are Belgian Wits (white) and Bavarian Weisse (weizen).
the use of herbs or spices. Common spices used are anise, There are also strong (weizen bock), filtered (kristall) and dark
cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, fennel, ginger and (dunkelweizen) versions of the style. The flavors, aroma and body
nutmeg. These beers usually have low hops to allow the herb vary depending on the style. Examples include the ever-popular
or spice flavor to come out. A few palate-pleasing choices are Hoegarden, Paulaner Hefe-Weizen, Schneider Weisse, Erdinger
Grant’s Spiced Ale, Crazy Ed’s Cave Creek Chili Beer, Arctic Pikantus and Bayern Brewing Dancing Trout Ale.
Wheat, Redwood Coast Yule-Tied, Jack’s Pumpkin Spice Ale
and Rogue Mexicali Chili Beer. Coffee Grinders
Coffee aficionados emphatically agree that to ensure the best
Smoked/Rauchbier Beers brew, consumers should buy freshly roasted beans and grind them
Rauchbier (smoked) beers are usually full-bodied, low in just before use. Grinding beans at home also lets you experiment
bitterness and have a subtly smoked taste and aroma. Tasty with different blends and brewing methods, be it a quick-start cup

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of espresso in the morning, a pot of drip coffee for an afternoon to professional espresso machines. Since burr grinders for home
klatch, or a plunger of half-decaf after dinner. All of these methods use are more akin to the professional grinders used in specialty
need a particular grind, and having the right equipment at home coffeehouses, they offer much higher precision for the grinding
allows you to custom-grind for each one. And with today’s electric process, as they allow customers to choose the appropriate grind
coffee grinders, all you need are a few seconds and a quick touch necessary for any type of brewing.
of a button. Burr grinders use metal plates or stones to grind a few
Generally, retailers stock two kinds of grinders — blade and burr. coffee beans at a time, working on the same principle by which
Whichever you decide upon, an ideal grinder should produce an people have ground wheat, corn and other grains for centuries.
evenly textured grind and very little coffee “dust,” allow for easy Fortunately, today’s wide range of press-a-button machines is
removal of the grounds, be easy to clean after each use, heat the much more practical. You simply put beans into a hopper, set a
beans only minimally after each use, and be relatively quiet. If knob for the desired consistency and turn the machine on. The
you use various kinds of hopper sends a controlled
coffeemakers, the grinder amount of beans onto two
you select should also have a metal plates, one of which
wide range of adjustments, is stationary. When the
from ultra-fine to coarse. other turns, a series of
grooves snag and grind
Blade Grinders the beans into evenly
While blade grinders sized granules that are
can accomplish the basic then sent into a removable
task of grinding beans at container.
an affordable price, they With precision and
have a few drawbacks, consistency, the burr
which may not make them grinder will usually
the best choice for your produce a uniform grind
customers. A blade grinder of beans regardless of how
has a rotating stainless steel many or few beans you
blade that slices through the beans to produce the coffee grind, feed it, or which of the different grind settings is chosen. The end
and you control the fineness by how long you let the grinder run. result should be an even bed of ground coffee for hot water to pass
Unfortunately, the resulting coffee grounds can be uneven in size, through. Another benefit of burr grinders is that they generate
leading to inconsistent brew quality. Another disadvantage is that little heat during the grinding process, so the beans stay cool,
if you are grinding finely, and therefore leaving the beans in the preventing the loss of flavor that otherwise may evaporate when
grinder for a longer period of time, there can be significant heat exposed to heat. With a burr grinder, you may also be able to
created by the blades. This can give the final coffee a burned taste. grind a larger amount of coffee at one time.
The advantages afforded by blade grinders include ease of use
and low price, both of which are desirable for first-time users. In the burr grinder category, there are two
Blade grinders are straightforward in their construction, often different types:
requiring little more of their users than the mere switching of the Wheel Burr – The less expensive of the two burr grinders. The
on/off button. Blade grinders may also be used to grind dry herbs wheel spins very fast, and these grinders can be noisy. The higher
and spices; however, you should recommend to customers that speed rotation makes these grinders a bit messier as well.
they use a separate grinder for this purpose, as the oils from the Conical Burr – The burr spins slower than the wheel model,
herbs and spices can taint coffee ground in the same machine. which makes them quieter and less messy. A conical burr grinder
can be used for oily or flavored coffees, and is not likely to clog.
Burr Grinders These are the best type, but tend to be more expensive.
Burr grinders are an excellent choice for grinding all types of
coffee — from those destined for everything from percolators

The Gourmet Retailer 27 2007 INGREDIENTS & implements


2007 Ingredients & Implements B
Torrone & Ricers By Kristin V. Montalvo

Torrone (typical of the torrone from Paternò in the west of Sicily). They also
come in a great variety of shapes, from the “mattùneddi” (little bricks)
Synonymous with Italian Christmas and Easter celebrations,
to the “né cascìtti” (box-shaped) varieties, not to mention the heart-
torrone is a dense nougat confection made simply of honey, sugar,
shaped versions. There is also the soft Sicilian torroncino, a delicacy
egg whites and nuts (usually almonds). It hardens into a candy as it
with the consistency of finely chopped almonds mixed with honey
is slowly cooked in copper kettles and resembles a small, flat brick.
and covered with a vanilla-, lemon- or orange-flavored topping.
Torrone can be found in both hard and soft varieties.
There are also well-known torrone variations like Marzipan
The roots of this popular Italian candy can be traced all the
(mazapan) with candied fruits, yema (egg yolk and sugar) and coconut.
way back to ancient Rome. This delicacy was reserved for special
In recent years, there has been a great diversification, and nowadays, it
functions or as an offering to the gods. Other cultures are known
is possible to find a great variety of flavors including chocolate with
to have a similar version, such as the Arabs, who are said to have
puffed rice or whole almonds; all kinds of chocolate pralines, with or
introduced it to the Spanish.
without liquor, candied fruits or whole nuts; fruit pralines; and even
In Italy, the first documented mention of torrone was in the
sugarless variations (sweetened with fructose or artificial sweeteners).
year 1441 in Cremona, where at the wedding of Francesco Sforza
to Maria Bianca Visconti, a talented pastry chef created a dessert
in their honor made from egg whites, honey, sugar, and almonds. Ricers
Shaped like the “Torrazzo,” the famous tower of Cremona, this Also called a potato ricer, this kitchen utensil resembles a large garlic
delicacy became popularly known as torrone. press and, for many cooks, is the ideal tool for creating velvety mashed
Of course, as with other legends in Italy, other regions have potatoes. With a ricer, potatoes come out light and airy without
different stories and claim to be the originators of this distinctive breaking down the structure the way conventional mashers can.
sweet. In fact, torrone versions are made throughout Italy, including This simple implement doesn’t have a bunch of fancy bells
in Piedmont, Campania, Sardinia and Sicily, and the concept and whistles or a tiny computer chip imbedded in it to do all the
is believed to be a gift of the early Saracens. However torrone work. All it takes is a press and a squeeze. A potato is placed in
originated, it is enjoyed all over Italy today and exported around the perforated chamber and a lever-operated plunger pushes down
the world, including to the U.S. where Americans are just beginning into the potato, forcing it out through numerous tiny holes in the
to appreciate this rather sophisticated treat. In fact, the recipes of bottom of the container. The result is food that (vaguely) resembles
several popular commercial candy bars (Toblerone, Mars, etc.) are grains of rice. The ricing process also works well for other root
based on that of traditional Italian torrone. vegetables such as carrots, yams and turnips.
Because ricers work through the exertion of pressure, you should
Torrone Varieties Abound look for one with a sturdy construction so it won’t bend or break.
The traditional and most famous torrone — torrone bianco The press itself — the disc on the bottom — should have numerous
(white torrone) — features honey, well-whipped egg whites, vanilla small openings to refine the potato with every stroke. Having two
and whole or chopped almonds. Traditional torrone is sandwiched interchangeable perforated plates — fine and coarse — is also
between two pieces of ostia or thin sheets of unleavened wheat bread. a plus. They should also have a container capacity of at least one
Ostia is often called “wafer.” Torrone pistachio features pistachios to two cups, and be made of dishwasher-safe, nonreactive metal
instead of almonds and is made with pistachio paste in the nougat. like stainless steel. And, of course, the ricer you choose must be
Other torrone varieties come with a thin coating of chocolate comfortable for your grip.

www.GourmetRetailer.com 28 2007 INGREDIENTS & IMPLEMENTS

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