InColor Spring 2010

Cover designed by Claudiu Magarit.
CONTENTS
5 Foreword
54
Ethical Mining and Fair Trade

6
6
7
Rapaport Fair Trade Jewelry Conference

Gemfields Partners with the World Land Trust
Designers Pledge to Continue Not Using Coral
Industry News
10
50
General Industry News

GILC Opens Discussion on Key Issues
Cover Feature
16
24
24
48
Thailand Sets Gem and Jewelry Branding and Promotion Strategy
Education
The Edward Arthur Metzger Collection, The Photographs of Jeffrey A. Scovil
Federation for European Education in Gemology
Gemology
34
44
47
51
The Uses, Potential, and Risks of Analytical Equipment in Gemology

AGL Discusses the Latest New Ruby Heat Treatment Coming out of Thailand
AIGS Lab Launches Master Gemstone Report
Book Review
51
The Stunning Mineral Collection of the Sorbonne University in Paris
Market Trends and Trade Fairs

52
54
56
57
58
Full Steam Ahead for Color in Tucson

Color in the Desert
BaselWorld 2010 Looking Ahead
Positive Optimism Marks the 45th Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair
More Buyers, More Buying Power in Hong Kong
56
www.gemstone.org
InColor | Spring 2010 3
FORE W ORD
Dear Readers,
D
19 West 21st Street, Suite 705
New York, NY 10010-6805 USA
Tel: 212.620.0900, Fax: 212.352.9054
www.gemstone.org
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
Barbara Wheat
Barbara@gemstone.org
BUSINESS MANAGER
Aashish Shah
Ash@gemstone.org
OFFICE MANAGER
Claudiu Margarit
ica@gemstone.org
2009-2011 BOARD OF DIRECTORS

PRESIDENT
Wilson K.W. Yuen
VICE-PRESIDENTS
Jean Claude Michelou
Charles Abouchar
TREASURER
Michael Haag
SECRETARIES
Benjamin Hackman
Clement Sabbagh
EXECUTIVE BOARD MEMBER
Muhamad Asraf Sultan
DIRECTORS
Edward W. Boehm, USA
Terrence Coldham, Australia
Sushil Goyal, USA
Nobuyuki Horiuchi, Japan
A.H. Muhammed Imtizam, Sri Lanka
Rajiv Jain, India
Susie Kennedy, Kenya
Phuket Khunaprapakorn, Thailand
Kamal Kothari, India
Bryan E. Pavlik, Austria
Emmanuel Piat, France
Capt. Ramji Sharma, Japan
Avner Sofiov, Israel
Prida Tiasuwan, Thailand
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Jean Claude Michelou
EXECUTIVE EDITOR
Barbara Wheat
SENIOR EDITOR
Cynthia Unninayar
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
Delphine Leblanc
PRODUCTION
Innovative Productions
The contents of InColor magazine may be
reprinted with proper attribution. For more
information, articles, or photo material, contact
the ICA office at ica@gemstone.org.
uring the Tucson gem shows earlier this year, ICA held the Gemstone
Industry & Laboratory Conference (GILC) for the rst time since 2007.
While we didnt know what the response from the industry would be
after this hiatus, registration numbers were double what we anticipated. GILC
has always been an invitation-only event, but word spread quickly resulting in
many calls to the ICA ofce from people active in industry debates requesting to
be added to our list. The end result was that we had excellent participation from
all major international gemological laboratoriesincluding representatives from
CIBJO and LMHCheads of associations and organizations, and leading members of the industry from both
the wholesale and retail sectors.
Our industry fosters many people who are passionate about issues relating to gemstone treatments,
nomenclature, and disclosure. Fortunately, a great number of these passionate individuals were in attendance at
GILC. With topics ranging from the origin of andesine,
colored stone grading standards, and glass-lled rubies,
to ethical mining and Fair Trade certication challenges
for the colored gemstone sector, there was plenty to be
passionate about during the all-day meeting.
The format of GILC allowed for discussions of the
scheduled topics with presentations from well-known industry experts followed
by questions addressed to the speaker and then by open discussion and debate.
The strength of GILC is that all parties involved in these issues are in the same
room at the same time where questions can be raised, answers proposed, and
solutions debated among key industry players and those with knowledge and
inuence on gemstone related issues.
At the end of each session, working groups were formed to engage in followup discussions, with the responsibility to report back to the GILC participants
with their conclusions. To facilitate this communication among committees,
and also to serve the entire GILC community, an online forum, www.GILC
Forum.org, was created featuring a public area for general discussion of industry
issues and a private area for committee members only. The ruby committee has
already worked on and concluded a new treatment classication. This and other
information as well as downloads will soon be available on the website.
I extend my thanks to all participants in GILC in Tucson, and especially our
appreciation to the speakers who prepared material for presentations. Our noted speakers included Christopher P. Smith, president of American Gemological
Laboratories; Dr. Lore Kiefert, chief gemologist, Gubelin Gem Lab; Dr.
Ahmadjan Abduriyim of the Gemological Association of All Japan; Dr. Pornsawat
Wathanakul, academic adviser, Gem & Jewelry Institute of Thailand; Shane McClure,
director, West Coast Identication Services, Gemological Institute of America; and
ICA vice president and World Bank consultant, Jean Claude Michelou.
The tentative date for the next GILC is set for September 2010 in Hong
Kong. Further details will be sent as soon as the venue is conrmed. GILC will
be held in Tucson next year, most likely on January 31st. We look forward to
seeing you there.
ISSN: 1158934X
To Subscribe to InColor, send an email to:
ica@gemstone.org
www.gemstone.org
Sushil Goyal
ICA Director
GILC Chairman
E T H I C A L M I N I N G & FA I R T R A D E
Recent Reports on
Responsible Practices
tarting with this issue, InColor will present a section on responsible practices in the gem and jewelry
industry. These practices include Fair Trade, ethical
mining practices, and sustainable development. This section begins with a look at the Rapaport Fair Trade Jewelry
Conference held at BaselWorld 2010, followed by a report
on one of Gemelds environmental projects.
Rapaport Fair Trade Jewelry Conference

Organized during the BaselWorld fair, the Rapaport Fair
Trade Jewelry Conference featured speakers from leading A panel discussion at the Rapaport Fair Trade Jewelry Conference held at
international organizations. Reports from some are summa- BaselWorld (photo courtesy of Rapaport).
rized here.
The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) announced initiatives. His presentation showed how Country of Origin
that membership has grown from 148 at the end of 2009 to Certicates could be used and traced along the distribution,
over 190 companies and trade associations throughout the manufacturing, and retail chain. He highlighted the present
global diamond and gold jewelry supply chain. According to initiatives for this certication scheme, which he is develMichael Rae, the new member, Danish Jewellers Associa- oping and implementing as a case model with the Nigerian
tion is the rst Scandinavian trade association to join. Other government as part of the World Bank funded Sustainable
members include the Union Franaise de la BJOP, National Management of Mineral Resources project.
The World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) president,
Association of Goldsmiths, British Jewellers Association,
American Gem Society, Jewelers of America, and the World Dr. Gaetano Cavalieri, announced the launch of a compreGold Council. For 2010-2011 initiatives, RJC plans to: ex- hensive program in Corporate Social Responsibility, the
pand the certication scope with platinum; work on the stan- Executive CSR Course, offered through the World Jewellery
dards for gemological laboratories and assayers; investigate Confederation Education Foundation (WJCEF) and hosted
the feasibility of chain-of-custody standards as a voluntary by HRD in Antwerp, Belgium. This is proactive CSR, and I
propose that it should set us apart from other luxury product
certication option for members under the RJC System.
ICA vice president, Jean Claude Michelou presented the industries. CSR should be recognized as an integral part of
our industrys DNA. It should dene
challenges to certication for colus as a community and be a characored gemstone producing nations
teristic by which consumers recogand the gem and jewelry supply
nize us, said Cavalieri.
chain, indicating that 80 percent of
Damien Cody introduced a
the worlds colored gems come from
Jewellery Ethical Trade System
artisanal small-scale mining (ASM)
(JETS) currently being considered
and that 90 percent of ASMs are in
for implementation by CIBJO. The
developing countries. He explained
principles involved in JETS were
how ethical mining of colored
initially developed by ICA and
stones and related Fair Trade prininclude developing a global ethical
ciples should be based on certifytrade system throughout the suping the country of origin through
ply chain that embraces both large
three simple criteria: development
of a value chain; formal and certi- ICA vice president Jean Claude Michelou talks about and small participants in existing
ed exports; sustainable poverty country certification at the Rapaport conference (photo national trade organizations and industry associations, while providing
reduction and social responsibility courtesy of Rapaport).
6
InColor | Spring 2010
www.gemstone.org
artisanal miners a channel for their products to reach wholesalers and retailers.
Patrick Schein of the Alliance for Responsible Mining
(ARM) introduced the new alliance with Fair Trade Labeling
Organizations International (FLO) for the development of
the rst ever third-party independent certication for gold.
Its goal is to bring about social, environmental, and economic development in ASM communities. The partnership will
enable both organizations to meet shared strategic objectives and to create a system ensuring that ASM miners earn a
better price for gold while improving mining conditions and
protecting the environment. The partnership will be communicated on the product with a co-labeling hallmark using
both FAIR TRADE and FAIR MINED.
Robin Smith, founder of Host Universal, shared his views
on the fundamental drivers behind the success of Fair Trade.
He insisted that Fair Trade be considered as much more than
just a label on a product. Fair Trade is about a new relationship between producers and consumers, supply chain transparency, and market access for self-determined producers.
Were here to help create the right market conditions, rather
than lay down the law. The Fair Trade label, he argued, is
a vital signpost and assurance, but only a thriving producer
economy will deliver the evidence of transformation; only
the evidence of transformation will drive belief; and only belief will drive the transformation of consumers into investors.
Robin expressed his concerns that if Fair Trade becomes perceived as corporate access to Fair Trading producers because
it pays a little more, then nothing much has changed.
Other speakers included Elisabetta Molina, from Italian
jewelry manufacturer Garavelli, who presented the brands
Globo collection, which uses ethically produced gold from
Oro Verde in Colombia and Ecoandina in Argentina. Another
speaker was Elisabeth Umlas from SMART, who highlighted
a social venture whose goal is to construct a transparent route
to market for responsibly mined minerals and metals, thus delivering sustainable economic development to communities.
Gemfields Partners with

the World Land Trust
In association with the World Land Trust (WLT),
Gemelds has collaborated with eight jewelry designers
to create a collection of ne emerald jewelry, which is
being launched at Selfridges Wonder Room in London.
The aim of the collection is to create awareness of the
plight of the Asian elephant and to bring attention to the
WLTs Indian Elephant Corridor project, which is raising
funds to save elephants in India, stated Gemelds.
The collection centers on a life-size berglass elephant, the
Emerald Queen, that was designed by Sabine Roemer using
www.gemstone.org
Gemelds
Zambian
emeralds. The Emerald
Queen will also take part
in the London Elephant
Parade, between May
and July.
The collection is
showcased at Selfridges
during May and into
mid-June, and then
will be sold at auction
at Sothebys. A percentage of the prots will
go towards the Indian
Elephant Corridor proj- The Emerald Queen, a life-size fiberect. The WLT is work- glass elephant, designed by Sabine
ing to safeguard tradi- Roemer using Gemfields Zambian
tional migration routes emeralds, in support of the World
for elephants so that Land Trusts Indian Elephant
they can move safely Corridor project.
between national parks
and other protected forests. Other supporters of the trusts
project include Sir David Attenborough and David Gower.
Gemelds says that its
mine-to-market capability guarantees the provenance of every gem,
through a full disclosure
and certication program.
It focuses on the consistent
supply of what it describes
as ethically produced
emeralds, which are
mined under a rigorous
set of standards in regards
to Fair Trade, environmental, social, and safety
practices. Earlier, the
company announced the
discovery of a 6,225-carat rough emerald at its
Kagem mine in Zambia.
The rough emerald has
been dubbed Insofu,
meaning elephant in the
vernacular of the regions indigenous Bemba
Necklace in Gemfields Zambian people, in honor of
emeralds by Jim Currens, in support the Elephant Corridor
of the World Land Trusts Indian Project and the stones
Elephant Corridor project.
unusually large size.
Jewelry Designers Continue

Pledge To Not Use Coral
A measure that would have granted trade protection to
red and pink corals (Coralliidae) used in jewelry and home
dcor failed to receive the necessary two-thirds majority at the 15th Conference of Parties of the Convention
on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES),
reported ocean conservation organization SeaWeb. While
64 countries voted in favor of protection, 59 voted against
it and 10 abstained. SeaWeb had called on governments
to protect Coralliidae under Appendix II of CITES, which
would have required countries wishing to export them to
prove that trade is not harming their continued survival.
SeaWeb called the decision on Appendix II, a major step
backward for the long-term survival of red and pink coral and
the industries that depend on them, and noted that intensive lobbying by coral industry interests occurred in the days
leading up to the vote. Coralliidae are in desperate need for
a mechanism that controls the immense trade in these species, said Kristian Teleki, vice president of science initiatives for SeaWeb. CITES could have provided that but the
representatives failed to heed the science showing these
Comprehensive...accurate an adventure
book with passion and understanding.
Emeralds, A Passionate Guide by Ronald Ringsrud
contains 70 photomicrographs, 250 color photos,
with 23 chapters and foreword by John Koivula.
Info & Ordering: www.emeraldpassion.com
Lecture and book signing

at JCK Education session,
Thurs. June 4
at 3:30 PM in
the Titan Room,
JCK Las Vegas
Available at
emeraldpassion.com
and most gem
booksellers.
Too Precious to Wear brooch in

gold with assorted gemstones by
Jean Schlumberger.
populations are in steep decline. It is now up to the jewelry

and design industries and their customers to act where governments have failed.
SeaWeb created the Too Precious to Wear campaign,
which calls on jewelers and designers to refuse to use red or
pink coral until sound management is in place and populations of the long-lived, slow-growing species have recovered. Supporters of the campaign include Tiffany and Co.,
Temple St. Clair, Nak Armstrong of Anthony Nak, Irene
Neuwirth, and many others. After the setback vote, a long list
of designers have pledged
to not use coral in their
creations. The jewelers
joining the campaign
today are helping to set
the standard in responsible design among the
ne jewelry industry by
pledging to personally
do their part to protect
these natural resources
by refusing to purchase
or use real coral in their
designs. The efforts of
these committed ne
jewelry designers mean
we are experiencing a
sea-change in the fashion and design industry
when it comes to coral
use, said Dawn Martin,
president of SeaWeb.
Too Precious to Wear necklace
All photos courtesy of SeaWeb,
SeaWeb.org, TooPreciousToWear.org
in 14K recycled gold, calcite crystals, vintage recycled bakelite, and

a conflict-free diamond clasp by
Monique Pan.
www.gemstone.org
$<>Dn><877@
:7>B4D111
Dealer of Fine Gemstones, Tanzanite & Zambian Emeralds
Manufacturer of Fine Sterling Jewelry
62 West 47th Street, Suite 905, New York, NY 10036

Tel: 212.391.5649 Fax: 917.595.5312 Email: sgoyal@libertygems.com
925 Sterling, Inc.
Singhal Gems D-50 ,Subhash Marg, C-Scheme, Jaipur -302001 INDIA

Tel: +91.141.4057867 Email: emeralds@singhalgems.com
IND UST RY N E WS
Gemfields: Record Sales at Rough Emerald

and Beryl Auction in Jaipur
emelds held its rst rough emerald and beryl auction

of 2010 in Jaipur, India in March, selling 89 percent of
material by value for US$7.2 million, with a volume of 5.78
tons. This was Gemelds largest auction in terms of weight
sold and sales realized, with 25 participating companies
compared to the previous auctions in London. A total 28.9
million carats of principally lower-quality rough emeralds
and beryl were offered in 56 separate lots, of which 49
were sold with 8 bids per lot on average. The share of lots
sold amounted to 78.9 percent by weight and 89 percent
by value at US$7.2 million, or US$0.31/carat. Lots ranged
from about US$0.03/carat to US$38/carat. Jaipur marked
our rst low-grade auction and the improvement in market
sentiment was palpable. We were particularly pleased to
further cement our relationships with our various customers, laying the path for Zambian emeralds to take the lead
in the supply of ethical gemstones of guaranteed provenance, said CEO Ian Harebottle.
Buyers examine lots at the Gemfields auction in Jaipur (photo

courtesy of Gemfields).
Tanzanias Controversial New Mining Law
anzanias parliament passed a new mining law that increases the rate of royalties paid on minerals such as
gold from 3 to 4 percent and requires the government to
own a stake in future mining projects. The Mining Act
2010 also requires mining companies to list on the Dar Es
Salaam Stock Exchange. Gemstones identied by the new
law include diamonds, tanzanite, emerald, ruby, sapphire,
turquoise, topaz, etc. The new law requires that the Tanzanian government own a stake in future mining projects and
that the country will no longer issue gemstone mining licences to foreign rms, although current agreements with
foreign companies remain unchanged. Tanzanite One, for
example, will not be affected by the new ownership rules.
Faceted tanzanite gems mined in Tanzania (photo courtesy of

Tanzanite One).
10
www.gemstone.org
IND UST RY N E WS
Mining companies however have said that this law

would further erode investor condence. In a joint statement issued through the Tanzania Chamber of Minerals
and Energy (representing international and local investors), the legislation is described by investors as distorted, that it would curtail future mining projects in the nation. [The bill] will only serve to hinder further growth
of the mining sector as existing investors resort to curtailing existing and expansion projects, and is bound to scare
potential investors who will look elsewhere, the chamber
stated to Reuters. Mining companies said they hoped to
convince the government to amend the new law before it
receives presidential assent, as it would have serious repercussions on the industry.
a decision by the CIBJO Diamond Commission to broaden the number of acceptable terms to describe synthetic
diamonds; and the release by the CIBJO Marketing and
Education Commission of a diamond, colored gemstone,
pearl, and precious metals guide for jewelry consumers.
The GLBB is a guide for the management and technical
operations of gemological laboratories. It suggests best
practices and general requirements for laboratories to
2010 CIBJO Congress
n February, the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO)

held its annual congress in Munich, Germany where
135 delegates from across the globe discussed important
industry-related topics. Among the highlights were: the
approval by CIBJOs Coloured Stone Commission of a set
of codes for the industry to describe gem treatments; the
release of its Gemmology Laboratory Blue Book (GLBB);
12
One of the sessions at the CIBJO 2010 annual congress (photo courtesy of CIBJO).
www.gemstone.org
IND UST RY N E WS
carry out tests, grading, and internal calibrations on instruments, colored gemstones, diamonds, and pearls.
In his address to the CIBJO Assembly of Delegates,
CIBJO president Dr. Gaetano Cavalieri announced
the development of Corporate Social Responsibility
(CSR) programs by the World Jewellery Confederation
Education Foundation (WJCEF). The rst course will be
an intensive WJCEF Executive Program, which will operate according to a model developed for CIBJO by a
United Nations-appointed team of CSR experts. CIBJO
had created a 50,000 Swiss franc scholarship fund, and
it will be used to help nance the rst WJCEF executive course, which will be hosted by HRD Antwerp in
Belgium in June.
ICA, CIBJO, and AGTA Cooperate

on Common Disclosure Codes
he International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA)

met with CIBJO and AGTA delegates in Tucson to set
the basis for developing a common code of disclosure for
the colored stone sector. This is the rst time the three organizations have endorsed a common initiative, based on
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14
a system previously developed by AGTA. It is envisioned

that these codes will be used and understood by the great
majority of the global colored gemstone trade.
British Reality Show Targets

Luxury Goods Industries
he rst episode of a new BBC reality show aiming to

highlight the workers conditions in producing luxury goods started with a look at gemstone mining. The
premise of Blood, Sweat and Luxuries was to send six young
British consumers to work alongside the people who mine,
manufacture, process and recycle luxury goods, according
to BBCs website. The shows inspiration is to get the characters and viewers thinking more about the human cost
of that shiny sapphire necklace or that new leather handbag. For the rst episode, six rich Brits were shipped off
to the isolated mining town of Ilakaka, Madagascar where
they are lowered down a 50-foot deep mine shaft to dig
for sapphires. As a TV reviewer for The Guardian wrote, the
participants have a collective moment of realization: Oh
my God, the world is totally so unfair. One even criticized
the European gem dealer for making all the money while
the guys at the mines do all the work for a pound a day.
QVC and Smithsonian Partner

on Jewelry Line
V retailer QVC has teamed up with the Smithsonian

Institute to create a line of fashion jewelry expected to
launch this fall, which has been inspired by the museums
collection of iconic pieces. The National Gem and Mineral
Collection contains more than 375,000 individual specimens, including the blue Hope Diamond and the Marie
Antoinette Earrings. The line with QVC will include earrings, rings, bracelets, pins, and brooches, as well as replicas of pieces in the museums collection, using gems such as
alexandrite, garnet, topaz, and tourmaline with price points
starting at $85.
The Smithsonian is delighted to work with QVC, said
Carol LeBlanc, director of consumer products for Smithsonian Enterprises. Together, we will create jewelry that is
not only fashionable but also serves to educate the public
about the Smithsonian and the jewelry, gems, and minerals found in its collections. Debra Puzio, QVCs director of merchandising, added, Millions of people visit the
museum each year, admiring its beautiful and rare jewelry
and gemstone collection. Now our customers can share
these national treasures in a very personal way as we give
them access to owning jewelry based on items of great
historical signicance.
www.gemstone.org
COVER S TO RY
Thailand Sets Gem And Jewelry

Branding And Promotion Strategy
(VAT) on the import of raw materials such as rough gemstones.
ith the support of
The Zero VAT Pavilion, now
the
Royal
Thai
a permanent attraction in the
Government and the
Bangkok Gems and Jewelry
combined cooperation of asFair, has drawn exhibitors from
sociations and institutes in
Afghanistan, Kenya, Nigeria,
Thailand, the gem and jewand other gem producing naelry industry is being sustained
tions. This initiative is part of the
through a variety of projects
strategy to ensure a regular supthat include promotion, brandply of rough gemstone material
ing, changes on import taxation
into the country to supply the
regulations, and developing
many lapidary companies.
standards and a pricing index
Another major development
for the gemstone industry.
following a mandate from the
The Thai gem and jewelry
Thai government to support
industry provides more than one
small and medium enterprises
million jobs and is the countrys
(SMEs), is the formation by
fourth largest export sector with
Thailands Ministry of ComUS$27 billion in sales in 2009.
merce of the Gem & Jewelry
It is no wonder that the governBusiness Development Commitment, through its Ministries of
tee of Thailand (GCT) to overCommerce and Finance, gets
see planning and implementation
actively involved in concrete coof projects aimed at sustaining
operation with the private sector
the growth of the Thai gem and
to develop initiatives intended to
jewelry industry as well as putweather the uncertainties of the
ting measures in place to provide
world economy while keeping
continuing support for producers,
the sector at the forefront of the
traders, and retailers.
global marketplace.
The Educational SubcomOver the past few years, the
mittee, under the GCT, one of
Thai Gem and Jewelry Tradthirteen committees formed,
ers Association (TGJTA), in
was entrusted with the task of
cooperation with the Thai Minpreparing both a quality stanistry of Commerce, has rolled
dards and a reference pricing
out several major projects and
index for colored gemstones.
initiatives aimed at support- The Thai Buy with Confidence certificate, top, and logo The main objective for esing the Thai gem and jew- (photos courtesy of GIT).
tablishing such standards was
elry industry. TGJTAs goal is
to support the decision by
to make Thailand the worlds gem and jewelry hub the Small and Medium Enterprises Development Bank
by 2014. Some initiatives by TGJTA to promote (SME Bank) to provide loans to gem and jewelry stakeThailand as the Gems and Jewelry Trade Route include the holders using gemstones as collateral. Without a solid
branding of gemstones processed in Thailand as Ploi Thai system in place for grading and pricing colored gemstones,
and a Buy With Condence campaign, as well as the de- the SME Bank could not support the industry with loans
cision of the Thai government to scrap the value added tax against their stock of gems.
By Barbara Wheat
16
www.gemstone.org
COVE R STORY
Zero Vat pavilion shared by African rough stone dealers at the Bangkok Fair (photo courtesy of Jean Claude Michelou).
The subcommittee was comprised of representatives of the

Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association (TGJTA), specialists from the Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (GIT),
as well as international experts from every sector of the business, including those involved in rough stones, production,
trade, the retail sector, and technology. Their objective was
to specify reference standards and establish pricing guidelines
that could facilitate fair-trading, and which would establish
consumer condence in Thailand and abroad.
The Colored Stone Buying Guide was completed on
December 28, 2009, and is the rst such reference guide
to circulate in the world of commercial colored gemstone
trading. The documents are available in Thai, English,
and Chinese, the major languages of the destination markets for the campaign. Distribution of the Colored Stone
Buying Guide has, to date, been concentrated at trade
shows in Bangkok, Hong Kong, Vicenza, and Basel.
Over 30 years ago, the Asian Institute of Gemological
Sciences (AIGS)Asias rst professional gemological
school and gem testing laboratorylaunched the AIGS
Ruby and Sapphire Grading system. The grading system
is part of AIGSs aim to provide students with a complete
education, involving not only gem identication and theowww.gemstone.org
retical knowledge, but also to give an understanding about

qualities, prices, market history, trends, and sources, said
AIGS founder and president, Henry Ho. He further explained that the grading is not used on the AIGS laboratory reports issued in Bangkok.
The Colored Stone Buying Guide goes further in that it
is available to the entire industry to serve as a tool to sustain the growth of the Thai gem and jewelry industry. It is
hoped that the combined initiatives will be of benet to the
colored gemstone industry in Thailand, and also boost consumer condence in Thai products worldwide. The reaction
to the Colored Stone Buying Guide is expected to emphasize Thailands position as a leading world gem-trading center with fair trading practices. Also important is the fact that
this reference price index will assist Thailand in protecting
the colored stone market from the crises and disruptions that
have adversely affected the industry during the last decade.
As the rst such standards, these documents focus on
the most important and popular colored stones in the
Thai gem trade: sapphire and ruby, the gems in which
Thailand has the worlds best expertise. The standards include
namely corundum, of which there are ve basic colors: ruby,
blue sapphire, yellow sapphire, pink sapphire, and orange
COVER S TO RY
sapphire. In grading the levels of quality,

the four attributes that are assessed are
color, cut, clarity, and size/weight. The
pricing index serves only as a guideline
and is subject to monthly updates.
All parties involved in the preparation
of the guide realize that establishing and
issuing these quality standards and reference price index is not 100 percent perfect, but it has reportedly been done in
a professional and transparent manner,
based on data from the commercial retail
market. They foresee that using these reference documents
when trading colored stones can benet both the buyer
and the seller. The documents are the basis for facilitating
sales, and they leave room for periodically adjusting prices
at all stages of the trading cycle.
The Thai government appointed the SME Bank to begin providing loans for working capital to gem and jewelry businesses using gemstones as collateral (photo courtesy of SME Bank).
According to information released by the Gem and Jewelry Business Development Committee of Thailand, benets
of the quality standards and reference-pricing index are:
1. Gem trading prices will reect the world market situation, and are adjusted in accordance with the realities of
the world market.
2. The standards will establish condence among consumers both in Thailand and abroad.
3. The reference documents will facilitate sales at every level
of the market, and will permit more exibility in trading.
4. As listings, the documents inform traders of market
conditions, and enable traders to adapt their operations
to suit the market.
5. The standards reduce the contrast between producers and
small-scale merchants, and facilitate trading at fair prices.
6. The standards facilitate increased trading volume, in both
the Thai market and in international markets.
18
7. The standards and price index will

maintain the position of Thailand as a
leading center of gemstone trading.
Following the above principles, this
cooperation was developed through the
efforts of the Thailand Small and Medium Enterprises Development Bank (SME
Bank) along with Thailands Ministry of
Commerce and Gem Appraisal Co., Ltd.,
with the support of three major trade organizations; the Thai Gems and Jewelry
Traders Association; the Thai Gems and
Jewelry Manufacturers Association; and the Chantaburi Gem
and Jewelry Traders Association. The government appointed
the SME Bank to begin providing loans for working capital
to gem and jewelry businesses using gemstones as collateral.
Members of these three associations are eligible to submit applications for bank loans using only gemstones as
collateral for short-term loans to cover immediate expenses or to enhance business liquidity. The terms of the loan
require payment within three months and can be extended
for an additional three months at the Minimum Loan Rate
(MLR) with a maximum loan amount of 10 million Baht
(approximately US$310,443) per loan.
Gem Appraisal Co., Ltd. located in the Jewelry Trade
Center, provides the appraisal services for the gemstones used
as collateral. According to its president, Chirakitti Tangathach,
Gem Appraisal Co., Ltd is the sole appraiser for the SME
Bank. Since the service became available in late February
2010, the equivalent of over US$375,000 has been provided
in loans to various gem and jewelry businesses in Thailand.
Currently, the bank has more than 40 loan applications pending ranging in amount from 100,000 Baht to 10 million Baht.
Although the pricing and value classication of the Colored Stone Buying Guide is reportedly set to be taken as a
basis for evaluation by the SME Bank loan system, it is not
clear how much it will be used and promoted by the trade.
No industry organization or country has ever set standards and pricing for the colored gemstone marketuntil
now. At a time when many gem traders are resistant to grading colored gemstones, and some organizations in the industry actively oppose the idea, Thailand has nonetheless proceeded with the release of the Colored Stone Buying Guide.
The guide is printed in Thai, English, and Chinese and
positions itself towards the fastest growing markets. However, several questions arise on what the reaction will be
from both Thai and international traders. Will the market accept this grading and certication system? Will the
Chinese market embrace it? Nobody knows yet what the
reaction from the market will be. It is, without a doubt, a
very big step for Thailand to have taken.
www.gemstone.org
COVE R STORY
Color Standardization and Trade Name
www.gemstone.org
COVER S TO RY
Clarity Grading Guide
20
www.gemstone.org
COVE R STORY
Trade Name
www.gemstone.org
COVER S TO RY
22
www.gemstone.org
E D U C AT I O N
The Edward Arthur Metzger Collection

The Photographs of Jeffrey A. Scovil
One of the many acquisitions Irma Vollrath made for Edward Metzger is this 22K gold necklace containing 32 unheated rubies of
exceptional color from the Valley of Mogok (approximately 38 total carats).
By E.A. Skalwold and W.A. Bassett
also to extraordinary size, clarity, and natural color, as well

as many fashioned of non-traditional gem minerals.
he upcoming book, Extraordinary Gems: The
Edward Metzger the Collector lived a life as extraorEdward Arthur Metzger Collection, documents the dinary as his collection. His interests in gems was born
story behind Cornell Universitys
out of his upbringing in a family surfantastic collection of gemstones as
rounded by ne art and later rened by
seen through the lens of one of the
his careful study of their attributes and
grand masters of mineral photography,
history. He directly linked his love of
Jeffrey Scovil.
gems with his lifetime of travel in disWhile the images speak for themtant lands. His adventures took him
selves, what follows is a brief look at the
not only to commonly visited desticollector himself and a few of the people
nations, but also to remote Kashmir,
who helped him pursue his passion.
Nepal, Bhutan, Sikkim, New Guinea,
The collection encompasses a broad
Antarctica and many other equally exrange of gem species, many of very ne
otic places. The cultures, history and
quality and great rarity. Their rarity not
nature all played a part in developing
Kunzite Spodumene, 102.16 cts
only pertains to the gem material, but
his sense of aesthetics and color.
24
www.gemstone.org
E D U C AT I O N
The collection contains many colors of zoisite including pink, green, yellow, and of course the magnificent
variety so familiar to alltanzanite. The color and brilliance of this spectacular 33.55-ct stone is nothing less
than dazzling as it graces this lovely platinum brooch
(designed and executed by Claus Vollrath).
This portrait seems to come alive, conveying how every movement brings out
a magnificent kaleidoscope of changing colors in this stunning 20.45-ct black
opal brooch (designed and executed by Claus Vollrath).
www.gemstone.org
Rubellite Briolette: 39.56 cts, 25.43 x 19.54 x 13.84 mm.

E D U C AT I O N
Very often nding the perfect specimen of a certain

gemstone took a great deal of searching worldwide on
the part of the Vollraths, who not only called in stone
dealers from around the globe, but also traveled to IdarOberstein and elsewhere in search of fabulous gems for
Edward. Some acquisitions took many individuals working together to procure the nal gem that would satisfy
Edwards shrewd sense of quality and desire for rarity.
This magnificent 13.01-ct (16.69 x 11.50 x 8.30 mm) spinel was cut
from a 32-ct rough crystal originating from Okkampitya, Sri Lanka
in the late 1980s.
The story of the Metzger Collection cannot be

separated from that of the late master goldsmith Claus
Vollrath and his wife Irma who, over a 35-year period,
helped Edward put together the majority of this collection.
The preeminent GIA gemologist Robert Crowningshield
once said of Claus, whom he knew well, the man with the
most beautiful stones! Many of these found their way into
Edwards collection.
The Teal Diamond: 1.08-ct Fancy Vivid Green-Blue SI1. While

it appears to be an old mine cut, this diamond was actually
fashioned around the year 2003. The rough originated from the
Ubangi Watershed area of the Central African Republic. As of 2004,
the size of this fancy vivid green blue diamond was extraordinary,
with most below a carat and almost none above one carat of this
particular color (Hofer, 2003 personal correspondence).
28
This 18K gold ring sports an 11.71-ct cats eye that nearly defines
the variety. It is one of several such chrysoberyls including an
alexandrite cats eye (designed and executed by Claus Vollrath).
Many of the set stones and fabulous jewelry designs

were of Claus Vollraths making. For the most part, Edward
collected loose stones, but he also had a love of very ne
goldwork, deceptively simple in design and which never
detracted from the gem itself. For these reasons, Claus exacting workmanship was what Edward most often favored
whenever he chose to have a fabulous stone set in jewelry.
Sri Lankan Sapphire: 18.78 cts, 18.85 x 11.96 x 9.97 mm. Besides the stone dealer, who in 1983 watched this Padparadschas
cutting from the rough outside of Ratnapura, as well as that of
a magnificent 51.54-ct sapphire, Edward was the first of Irmas
clients to view these untreated marvels. Needless to say, Edward
added both to his collection without hesitation.
www.gemstone.org
E D U C AT I O N
Topaz and diamond brooch: 58.21 cts, 28.45 x 19.70 x 13.30 mm.
Color Change Diaspore: 11.05 cts, 13.41 x 13.10 x 9.42 mm. (Left: daylight; Right: incandescent light.)
www.gemstone.org
E D U C AT I O N
30.77-ct Star Sapphire Ring (David Webb design).
In personal letters, Edward often praised the Vollraths,

not only for their assistance in obtaining ne materials,
but also for educating him in the subtle details of what
constitutes a connoisseur gem. While not every item in
the collection was acquired through them, they certainly
inuenced Edwards careful purchases anywhere else in
the world.
While gems of every type make up the collection, an
important section is that of the fancy colored diamonds.
For years, Edward urged Irma to nd him a true red
diamond. Not one to be daunted by such a challenge,
Irma brought in one of the most famous colored diamond
experts, author and consultant Stephen Hofer, to assist
in the quest for this elusive gem and to advise Edward
directly regarding the building of a marvelous suite of
fancy colored diamonds, part of which Edward had
already begun to acquire.
6.67-ct Star Ruby Platinum Ring.

30
Padparadscha: 13.36 cts, 15.61 x 11.22 x 8.35 mm. Purchased in

Colombo, Sri Lanka in the mid-1990s.
A telling illustration of Edwards passion for colored

gems, and diamonds in particular, is that he had obtained
and studied Stephens famous tome on the subject. Purveyors of colored stones can appreciate what a challenge
and a pleasure it might be to sit across the table from such
a client. Stephen related to this author (EAS) that he was
profoundly impressed with Edwards acumen and deep interest in not just the beauty and diversity, but also the science of color in diamonds.
Kashmir Sapphire Ring: 14.63 cts, 15.13 x 12.16 x 8.39 mm. An unheated magnificent facet-grade sugarloaf cabochon set in platinum, from the early 1990s (Raymond Yard design).
www.gemstone.org
E D U C AT I O N
Exotic Gem Minerals
Phosphophyllite: 10.99 cts, 14.77 x 10.30 x 10.28 mm.
Rhodochrosite: 10.05 cts, 13.16 x 13.39 x 8.76 mm.
Aragonite: 47.93 cts, 30.40 x 20.24 x 14.32 mm.
Scheelite: 48.87 cts, 19.75 x 19.39 x 10.67 mm.

www.gemstone.org
Zircon: 22.50 cts, 17.92 x 14.17 x 8.25 mm.

E D U C AT I O N
A Predilection for Green

Edward collected a multitude of green gems, not just the
ones seen here, but also chrome tourmaline, demantoid
garnet, and chrome diopside. While searching for the perfect green diamond, he and Irma took the green diamond
(below) out into Central Park to see if it compared favorably with the color of the grass!
11.95-ct Tsavorite garnet.
30.22-ct Peridot.
0.64-ct green diamond.
15.90-ct Merelani Mint garnet.

32
26-inch Imperial jadeite bead necklace with beads ranging from

9.32 to 4.91 mm in diameter.
www.gemstone.org
E D U C AT I O N
How many of us would spend what we knew to be our

last hours on such a project? Only those for whom the
beauty inherent in gemstones holds such fascination, awe
and loveperhaps in one respect embodying ones earthly
existence in such a way as to be worthy to be remembered
by, once life has ed.
Edwards passion for colored gemstones is remembered
by those in the gem world who were fortunate to meet
him, such as K.C. Bell of San Francisco. Edwards interest
in the unusual and very rare extended not only to the colored diamonds and non-traditional gem minerals, but also
to natural pearls of many types.
He already possessed conch and melo pearls of good
size and ne color. He learned from K.C. about other
types of pearls of even more exotic and rare nature. To his
collection, he was able to add scallop pearls, clam pearls,
a 45.47-carat conch pearl, a long lovely conch pearl necklace, natural saltwater pearls and, not least of all by any
means, the magnicent necklace of very large abalone
pearls pictured here.
Perhaps what personies Edwards passion for gems is
simply the greeting that K.C. received on the telephone as
he listened to a strangers pleasant voice utter: K.C., this
is Edward Metzger in New York. Id like to see your best,
your nest, and your rarest.
The Treasure of California: The natural abalone pearls in this

necklace were discovered in the 1970s and 1980s along the coast of
California and Lower (Baja) California. Largest pearl: 20.04 x 16.73
x 8.45 mm.
In 2003, with Stephens assistance, Irma was able to fulll Edwards long quest for a diamond which rivals ruby in
its blood red hue: the 0.89-carat Brazilian diamond now
known as The Metzger Red. At that time, this stone,
whose origin was the alluvial diamond elds in the country
of Edwards birth, ranked as eighth largest in the world in
the red family and was the largest fashioned as an emerald
cut. Since that time, its rank has dropped considerably, but
it still holds a historic place among this family of rarest
color (Hofer, 2003 personal correspondence).
Tragically in 2004, Edward succumbed quickly to illness, but not before he made arrangements to share with
the larger world what up until then had been a very private
passionate pursuit. Edward completed what he could of the
color wheel of fancy diamonds by making sure that one of
the rarest colors was represented, a so-called pumpkin
diamond, adding the stone to the collection just two days
before he passed way.
www.gemstone.org
About the book authors: Gemologist Elise A. Skalwold, BSc, FGA, GG, is a 1982
Cornell graduate; William A. Bassett, Ph.D, is professor emeritus of geology, Cornell
University, a 1996 Roebling Medalist, and one of the pioneers of diamond anvil
cell high pressure research.
All photographs are copyright Cornell University and Jeffrey A. Scovil. Text is
copyright of the authors and InColor magazine.
The Metzger Red: 0.89-ct Fancy Purplish Red VS1. The extremely
rare color of this Brazilian diamond defines the exact boundary
between pure and purplish-red making it a master stone with
which to judge all others (Hofer, 2003 personal correspondence).
GEMO LO GY
The Uses, Potential, and Risks of

Analytical Equipment in Gemology
By Thomas Hainschwang, director and research gemologist at the Gemlab Laboratory for Gemstone and
Pearl Analysis and Reports in Balzers, Liechtenstein
hen the rst gemological laboratory was founded in London in 1925, the science of gemology
had just been born. The advent of the rst synthetics (Verneuil synthetic corundum and synthetic spinel) and diamond irradiation treatments were the main
challenges in this early period of gemstone analysis. Until the 1970s, the laboratories were mainly equipped with
standard equipment such as microscopes, direct vision
spectroscopes, refractometers, polariscopes, and dichroscopes, among others, and some had access to certain
mineralogical techniques such as X-ray diffraction and, at
a later time, scanning electron microscopy via collaboration with universities or large geological institutes. For
most challenges during this time, the so-called standard
gemological techniques were sufcient and the need for
more sophisticated instrumentation was not imminent.
In 1976, the well-known mineralogist and gemologist George Bosshart introduced spectrometers into the
gemological eld and was the rst one to record UV-Vis
spectra of gemstones and even low-temperature spectra of
diamonds in a gemological laboratory.
Following this initial step by Mr. Bosshart, the instruments that started to be used in the major gemological
laboratories included UV-Vis-NIR spectrometer, infrared spectrometer, and EDXRF chemical analysis systems.
Interestingly, many laboratories, especially the ones doing
mostly diamond grading, were not following this evolu-
Figure 1. A natural color blue diamond: this is one of the most

prestigious gems that requires complex laboratory analysis.
34
tion and only in the 1990s with the advent of many new
treatments and more and more synthetics, many started to
invest in analytical equipment.
With the appearance of HPHT-treated diamonds, the
technique of photoluminescence spectroscopy and Raman
spectroscopy, which is associated with it, was added to the
equipment list of the major labs. Even later, mainly for the use
of light-element detection in beryllium-treated sapphire, for
example, destructive techniques such as ICPMS (inductively coupled plasma mass spectroscopy), LIBS (laser induced
breakdown spectroscopy) and rarely SIMS (secondary ion
mass spectroscopy) were introduced into the gemological
eld. Other instruments that were adapted for gemological
purposes included x-ray diffraction, radiography, computer
tomography, and scanning electron microscopy.
Even today, gemology is still regarded by some as something between science and art since much that has been
done in earlier days was rather rudimentary compared to
other sciences such as mineralogy, geology, and chemistry.
Nowadays, most researchers working in gem labs come
from one of these sciences and advanced gemology has
truly evolved into a science.
The evolution of gem treatments and synthesis in
the past 20 years has changed the requirements for gem
analysis. In todays complex gemology world, the most
sophisticated instrumentation operated and interpreted by
very experienced gemologists are required to solve most
of the problems. The following paragraphs give a brief description of the methods and their uses, potential, and risks.
UV-Vis-NIR Spectroscopy
This technique is the modern equivalent to the spectroscope,
with the main difference being that the spectrum does not
show up as lines and bands visible within the rainbow of all
spectral colors but rather is shown on a screen as a continuous graph, which represents the intensity of absorbance or
transmittance measured at each point on the spectrum. Another important difference is that, depending on the system
used, such a UV-Vis-NIR spectrometer can cover a much
larger domain than the standard spectroscope, which covers
400 to 700 nm; a spectrometer typically covers the range of
190 to 1,100 nm but can go all the way to about 3,000 nm.
There are NIR spectrometers that cover the entire near infrared but such systems are rarely in use. Two different types
www.gemstone.org
GE MOLOGY
Figure 2. The prototype of the high resolution UV-Vis-NIR spectrometer system used at the GEMLAB laboratory (top). The graphs show
the polarized spectra recorded on this instrument from a natural emerald from the Habachtal/Austria of 1.04 cts (left) and the comparison of the reflectance spectra recorded on this instrument of a natural black pearl from Pinctada margaritifera (blue trace, photo) and a
color-treated black pearl (red trace).
of spectrometers are generally usedscanning spectrometers

and diode spectrometers. Of these, the scanning spectrometers are the traditional instruments that are relatively slow
but that have the advantage of only measuring absorption.
Diode spectrometers have the advantage that they are much
quicker and sometimes more efcient but the results need
care when interpreted since such instruments measure both
absorption and emission at the same time. UV-Vis-NIR spectroscopy is extensively used for country-of-origin determination of gemstones, color-origin determination of diamond,
and color-treatment analysis of gemstones and pearls. While
the spectrometers themselves have made a great evolution in
the past 15 years and portable low-cost instruments are available today, the light sources providing the UV are very costly.
As soon as a high-resolution and high-sensitivity instrument
covering the domain of the UV to about 1,100 nm is required,
the costs of a complete instrument rise steeply.
Infrared Spectroscopy
Infrared spectroscopy is a technique that mainly determines
vibrational absorptions due to vibrating molecules in materials. In diamonds, this method detects also a variety of
electronic transitions, which are found in the near-infrared
portion of the spectrum. The domain from about 1,200
to 25,000 nm (~7800 to 400 cm-1) is covered by most of
todays infrared spectrometers. This domain represents the
energetically lower wavelengths of light which are invisible
www.gemstone.org
to the eye. This type of spectroscopy measures how much

infrared radiation passes through a sample put in its path.
Today, there are nearly exclusively FTIR (Fourier Transform
Infrared) spectrometers in use since they are much faster
and efcient than the older generation of dispersive infrared
spectrometers. This technique can be used for a large list of
tasks including identication of mineral species, treatments,
synthetics, determination of the diamond type, nitrogen
content, and presence of IR active hydrogen, and nally for
the identication of organic groups within gem materials
such as OH (hydroxyl) groups.
Raman Spectroscopy
This method, although known since the 1930s, is only
popular since lasers have become widely available. Thanks
to the intense lasers and very sensitive detectors, it has
become possible to efciently detect extremely small
amounts of inelastically scattered light (Raman scattering) within elastically scattered light (Raleigh scattering)
from a sample to be analyzed. It has been estimated that,
as an average, approximately one out of one million scattered photons is a Raman signal. In Raman spectroscopy,
the frequency of such inelastically scattered laser light
is measured and thus the identity of a substance can be
determined. The use of this method is mainly for material identication (including lling materials in treated
gemstones), determination of inclusions, and certain
GEMO LO GY
Figure 3. The FTIR spectrometer used at the GEMLAB laboratory (left) and the infrared spectra recorded on this instrument from untreated emerald as well as emeralds treated by various commonly used organic fillers (right), which are identified by the features in the
spectral domain from 2,800 to 3,100 cm-1.
organic coloring agents. The features in Raman spectra

can also be used to determine the cristallinity of a material.
Raman spectroscopy that is based on the vibrations of
molecules is a complementary technique to infrared spectroscopy and in many cases either of them can be used to
solve a given problem. The most noteworthy exception
is diamond where Raman spectroscopy is of very limited
interest while infrared spectroscopy is one of the most
important techniques for diamond analysis.
One problem in Raman spectroscopy is the presence
of luminescence. Excited by the laser, luminescence can
mask the Raman signal and make it impossible to successfully record a Raman spectrum. It can also be a problem
to determine whether a peak is a Raman scattering signal
or luminescence, unless two different laser excitations are
available to verify this.
Figure 4. The Raman/photoluminescence spectra of calcite and

aragonite recorded using two different lasers (473 and 532 nm).
The broad bands represent photoluminescence while the sharp
features are Raman scattering peaks.
36
Photoluminescence Spectroscopy
Photoluminescence is a term that stands for emission of
photons, thus phenomena such as uorescence. In such phenomena, the absorption of a photon (light) puts a material
into an excited state, and the energy loss when falling back
to the ground state occurs in the form of an emission. Photoluminescence spectroscopy is a technique that is commonly
measured with the same instruments used for Raman measurements. Lasers are perfect sources to excite luminescence
in gem materials. The vast variability of lasers covering the
entire range of wavelengths of interest permits one to excite
emissions related to all possible types of defects in a material.
Even though there are many applications of this technique
in many different gem materials, the main use of photoluminescence spectroscopy can be found in diamond analysis.
Unlike any other gem material, diamond spectra exhibit a
very large variety of rather sharp vibronic-type absorptions
and emissions caused by many different defects (point and
extended defects). Diamond needs to be studied at room
temperature and low temperature (commonly by the use of
liquid nitrogen with a temperature of -196C) because the
spectra can be dramatically different. Usually, the emissions
sharpen strongly at low temperature, but in certain cases
they are even absent at room temperature but very dominant
at low temperature (see gure 4).
Although diamond is the main gemstone analyzed by
this method, there are vast possibilities for the analysis of
all other gem materials, which are by far not all studied in
detail by this method.
Photoluminescence spectra can show a variety of artifacts from laser, lter, and anything else that is in between
the laser and the spectrometer. Knowing these and reducing or eliminating them is important for the proper interpretation of the resulting spectra.
www.gemstone.org
GEMO LO GY
UV Imaging Techniques
UV imaging is a very useful method to study luminescence
and its distribution microscopically. There are basically two
types, one using very high-energy UV light (< 225 nm) and
one using anything from about 250 nm to about 450 nm in
the blue part of the spectrum. The rst one is known from
the instrument DiamondView which has its main uses in
the eld of diamonds, since the UV wavelength just below
the diamond intrinsic UV absorption allows one to observe
surface-restricted luminescence phenomena, which give
direct insights into the growth of diamond.
The other type is used for all sorts of analyses such as
detection and quantication of organic llers and the observation of irregular defect distribution in gemstones. There
are many ways to use a UV microscope and, with the right
Figure 5. The room temperature (blue trace) and low temperature

(-196C, red trace) spectra recorded from a nickel-rich natural
diamond (inset). The very intense emission system seen in the domain around 700 nm is nickel-related and well known from HPHT
synthetic diamonds grown by a nickel catalyst. The spectra were
recorded with a 532 nm laser on the PL spectrometer system used
at the GEMLAB laboratory.
setup, gem materials can be excited and observed under light

wavelengths from 250 nm to about 650 nm. Furthermore,
such instruments can be coupled to a spectrometer to record
the emission of a sample when excited by the intense light
source that is necessary for UV microscopy. Such an experiment showing the blue uorescence emission depending on
the excitation wavelength using a xenon light source and a
monochromator is shown in gure 6. The spectra shown are
photoluminescence spectra, but simply recorded using an
excitation source other than a laser.
EDXRF (Energy Dispersive X-Ray

Fluorescence) Spectroscopy
This type of spectroscopy is actually the measurement
of secondary X-rays that are emitted by a material when
excited by X-rays. The X-rays cause electrons in the inner
shell to be ejected from their sites and, when they are replaced by electrons from an outer shell, secondary X-rays
are emitted; therefore the name X-ray uorescence.
The emitted secondary X-rays have energies characteristic for each chemical element of the periodic table and
therefore this technique permits the non-destructive chemical analysis of gem materials. Well-calibrated EDXRF systems permit the quantitative or semi-quantitative chemical
analysis of materials. The only drawback of this technique
is that light elements (lower atomic number than sodium)
cannot be detected because of the beryllium window that
is usually employed at the entrance of the detector and
that the determinable light elements (Na, Mg, Al, Si) need
to be present in relatively high concentrations in order
to be detected. In EDXRF, various artifacts occur, with
the most prominent being diffraction peaks that can be
reduced by rotating a sample during the analysis.
Figure 6. The setup of the xenon-based luminescence spectroscopy system (left) and the result obtained from a blue-fluorescing diamond
using various excitation wavelengths (right).
38
www.gemstone.org
GEMO LO GY
X-Ray Imaging Techniques
Figure 7. The EDXRF chemical analysis of a lead glass treated star

ruby, performed on a custom EDXRF spectrometer system with a
thermoelectrically cooled detector used at the GEMLAB laboratory.
LIBS (Laser Induced Breakdown

Spectroscopy)
This chemical analysis method cannot be performed without
destroying small quantities of material and is based on the
well-known and practically abandoned technique of ame
spectroscopy. In this modernized version, small quantities are
vaporized using a laser and the resulting atomic emissions are
measured with a very high-resolution spectrometer; usually
several diode spectrometers covering only a short range each
are coupled to achieve the high resolution necessary to resolve all the very sharp emissions. With well-focalized lasers
and a well-adapted stage, gem materials can be tested without
major traces visible after analysis; typically very small shallow
craters are created, which can be removed practically without
weight loss. LIBS is relatively difcult to calibrate to be used
quantitatively, but approximate values can be obtained. The
method has its main application in the detection of light elements in gem materials, such as beryllium in sapphire.
ICPMS (Inductively Coupled

Plasma Mass Spectroscopy)
The highly sophisticated and expensive method is a destructive one that can, thanks to laser ablation via a microscope,
be used in the gemological eld. The small shallow craters
are about as tiny as the ones created by LIBS, thus creating
no real problem in gem testing. ICPMS is extremely sensitive and practically all elements can be detected in very low
concentrations (sub-ppm). The problem is that it can really
only be run correctly if standards are used for the different
materials to be analyzed and even then only by a highly specialized operator. ICPMS is, on one hand, super sensitive for
quantitative trace element analysis but, on the other hand, it
is an instrument that can very easily lead to erroneous results
if not used with utmost caution and precision.
40
The two most important imaging techniques using X-rays

are the well-known radiography and the more sophisticated and very expensive Micro Computer Tomography.
Radiography is used for pearl analysis and to visualize and
quantify certain llers in gem materials such as the notorious lead glass lled rubies (or glass-ruby composite material, see gure 8). Film-based radiography has been used
for a long time and has proven to be efcient in pearl testing. The problem with this method is the time needed for
each radiography. Pearls often need to be X-rayed from
several directions for conclusive evidence and such procedures can be very time-consuming.
For two decades, digital radiography has been available
in the market. Using this technique, real-time imaging has
become a reality. The major drawback of digital radiography has always been the resolution of the images obtained.
Until quite recently, the resolution was not satisfactory, and
far from the resolution of the best X-ray lm in the market.
In the past years, this situation has changed and some
systems are available that have similar or even equal resolution levels of X-ray lm. While these detectors are very
expensive, they can save time and allow many images to
be recorded under different conditions. This helps solve
many tasks of difcult pearls that may otherwise require
computer tomography.
When pearls are really ambiguous, computer tomography may be the only solution. The technique has a resolution superior to radiography and creates three-dimensional images. The drawbacks are that it is time-consuming
if good results are needed and that the initial investment
and the running costs for the complex machine are major.
Only the highest-resolution systems make sense since instruments with lower resolution have no signicant advantage over a highest-resolution real-time radiography system. Additionally, only single pearls can be tested; strings
cannot be scanned with these systems. This means that
a pearl must be quite some size in order to be worth the
expense of Micro-CT analysis. If the high-resolution CT
scanners evolve and become more rapid and if prices come
down, perhaps one day these systems may be economically viable in a commercial gemological laboratory.
Other Methods
Scanning electron microscopy usually permits the observation of the surface of a sample with magnications up to
several ten thousands, the visualization of compositional
uctuations, and variations in a substance and if available
also the luminescence of a sample under the electron beam
used in the microscope. Additionally, many instruments
www.gemstone.org
GEMO LO GY
Figure 8. A radiography of the lead glass treated star ruby shown

in figure 7 (left) and of a natural pearl (right) recorded on the
custom-made real-time radiography Blackbox system used at the
GEMLAB laboratory. The bright white to lighter gray zones in the
image of the ruby represent lead glass fillings.
have EDX capacities, which means that they allow point

analysis of the chemical composition. SEM-EDX has the
advantage that very small surfaces can be scanned point by
point, but the detection limit of the instrument is lower than
in EDXRF since the electrons used to X-ray emission cause a
background noise known under the term Bremsstrahlung.
14
C isotope analysis for age determination of certain organic gem materials (radiocarbon dating) is usually realized using
an accelerator mass spectrometer (AMS). For this destructive,
complex, and expensive method, a piece of about 0.015g
must be available for destructive analysis. Ions obtained from
the material are accelerated to extraordinarily high kinetic
energies before mass analysis in order to efciently determine
the 12C to 14C isotope ratio, which then permits the determination of the age of a substance. 14C is the short-lived radioactive isotope of carbon (mostly 12C is the stable isotope
present in nature, together with very little 13C), which has a
half-life of 5,730 years and which is accumulated by all living
things on earth. By measuring how much of it is left, the age
can be determined, with a maximum of about 40,000 years.
These two methods are only rarely used in gemology
and gem labs can generally only access them by cooperation with universities or other research labs.
Discussion and Concluding Remarks

This short overview of the instruments used and needed
in todays gemological laboratories has demonstrated that
gemology is a real eld of science today. Gemology needs
to be separated into a scientic and a commercial denition, since the title gemologist can mean just about anything, from a short course allowing one to use the title, to
scientic education and a life full of passion for gems.
The advent of advanced instrumentation has brought
the science of gemstone analysis to a new level. The com42
bination of classic gemological tools with a multitude of

advanced instruments is the key for the gemological community to defend its credibility and to protect consumers.
Today, the cost of such instruments has decreased to a certain degree and smaller laboratories and others interested
in the techniques can afford them more easily.
The problem that arises with the availability of specialized analytical instruments is the interpretation of the
data obtained. Even the most experienced operators can
misinterpret data or some artifacts can be regarded as real
results; such errors happen very rapidly since they are not
always evident. Therefore, the instruments, techniques,
and the physics behind them must be part of the knowledge of a laboratory gemologist who is employing them
and interpreting the data. With this in mind, it is not difcult to imagine what can happen when inexperienced
users try to interpret spectral data. Without sufcient
background knowledge, experience, and caution, it is safer to keep the ngers from such specialized instruments,
unless the data obtained is simply used to learn and not to
be published. The fact that the internet has made it easy
to publish any type of information without verication
by an independent expert is one of the major problems in
gemology today. It is no secret that even peer-reviewed
publications by experienced scientists may contain major
errors, but this risk is far higher in non peer-reviewed
online publications. Today, one can nd rather abstruse
papers online about gemological topics, which gain credibility due only to the fact that some fancy instruments
were used to come to the published conclusions.
More than once, for example, photoluminescence data
has been regarded as Raman data, leading to rather breathtaking conclusions from data obtained by Raman spectroscopy, which is a method that permits mainly to identify
mineral species (see above).
Without a doubt, the use of such still very costly
instrumentation has permitted the laboratory gemologist to
solve most problems that occur in gemology today. There
are many methods offering much potential for gemstone and
pearl analyses. It is evident that running a serious laboratory
without a variety of analytical instruments is impossible. It
is also evident that such instruments have their applications
and uses for gemologists not directly involved in laboratory
work, but that the limitations and risks associated with them
should always be kept in mind.
The author is grateful to Franck Notari (GemTechLab Geneva) for proofreading
the manuscript.
Thomas Hainschwang (thomas.hainschwang@gemlab.net) is currently working
on his Ph.D on a diamond topic at the University of Nantes (France) under the
supervision of Prof. Emmanuel Fritsch and Dr. Benjamin Rondeau.
www.gemstone.org
GEMO LO GY
AGL Discusses the Latest New Ruby Heat

Treatment Coming out of Thailand
By Christopher P. Smith, AGL president
or more than a year, yet another new ruby heat treatment has been entering the global marketplace. As this
treatment was rst acquired in Bangkok by wholesalers
and manufacturers, then distributed through other markets
across the world, issues arose as how to properly represent
and disclose this treatment. Of concern for the industry was
whether it had to be disclosed similarly to the lead-glass
treated ruby, known as Composite Ruby (AGL 2007), and
what special care requirements did it carry. Following its initial investigations, the American Gemological Laboratory
(AGL) released its conclusions and policies for their reports
(AGL 2010). The ndings indicate this latest treatment is
essentially the same as the more traditional ux-assisted
heating of rubies, with some additional features.
Sizes and Appearance

The supply of treated rubies from Mozambique is quite large
as are their sizes. The author has examined hundreds of faceted rubies below 1 to more than 5 carats in the U.S., Hong
Kong, and Thailand (gure 1). Although these sizes are
Figure 1: For more than a year,
another new heat treatment for
Mozambique rubies has been on
the Thai market. Rubies treated
by this method are found in
large quantities, ranging in size
from below 1 ct to over 50 cts.
common, rubies treated by this new method in excess of 40

to 50 carats are also available. In larger stones (generally 10
carats or more), faceted stones tend to be shallow due to the
tabular shape of the original rough. The majority of rubies
examined were of medium to lower quality, with a pinkishred to saturated red color and obvious inclusions reducing
transparency. Higher quality, more transparent treated rubies are also encountered.
Gemological Findings
All of the standard gemological properties were consistent
with ruby in general. Microscopic examination revealed
the presence of several naturally-occurring inclusions
that showed evidence of heat treatment (gure 2). All of
the stones possessed thermally induced healed ssures
with heating residues that ranged from faint or minor to
prominent (gure 3). Many of the samples possessed s44
Figure 2: The Mozambique rubies treated by this method possessed

internal features revealing thermal alteration. Left: A whitish
crystal has gone through thermal shock. Right: A heavily altered
crystal has created a halo of orange color as a result of heating.
sures where little to no healing had taken place, however,

the ssures were in-lled with a solid, glass-like or vitreous material (gure 4). Both features were readily evident
when the stones were viewed with a standard jewelers
loupe or a microscope. Several of the stones also possessed
glass-lled cavities. The lower luster of the glass compared
to the host ruby was evident (gure 5).
Chemical analyses were conducted using an energy
dispersive X-ray uorescence spectrometer (ED-XRF).
Minor to trace elements of chromium, iron, titanium, vanadium, and gallium, were detected in concentrations typical
of Mozambique rubies (GIT-GTL, 2009, 2010; Pardieu et
al., 2009, 2010). No lead or bismuth was detected.
Durability Tests
Initial durability studies were conducted in collaboration with Craig A. Lynch of Ouellet & Lynch in Phoenix,
Arizona. Stones that had primarily ssures healed during the
heating process, as well as ones that possessed a combination
of ssure healing and in-lling were exposed to conditions
that would be typically encountered at the work-bench of
manufacturers and retailers. Standard bench jeweler practices were employed during the re-tipping of prongs, sizing,
repair, rhodium plating, and polishing.
Figure 3: Shown here are the typical constituents and patterns of
heating residues present as a result of induced healing of fissures
by the adding of fluxing agents
during heating.
Rubies were immersed in a standard jewelers pickle

(warmed Sparex) for 20 minutes. Prior to rhodium plating, the rubies where cleaned in a solution of Potassium
Hydroxide for 1.5 minutes. For the rhodium plating process, the rubies were immersed in a solution of sulfuric acid
standard for plating white gold jewelry, for 1.5 minutes.
www.gemstone.org
GE MOLOGY
Discussion
For this treatment, AGL was told that a selection of the rough
material suitable for the Composite Ruby treatment is made.
This sub-group of rough is then treated using various chemicals or uxing agents, similar to the more traditional heating
of ruby that results in ssure healing and heating residues
(B. Hakimi 2010; Pardieu et al., 2010).
During the course of microscopic investigations, it
was clear that virtually all rubies possessed ssures that
had been healed. Many of the stones also possessed
ssures that had been in-lled with a glass-like or vitreous
material. The lead-glass of a Composite Ruby does not participate in the healing of ssures, and the golden color of
the lead-glass further augments the color of rubies treated
by that method. Neither is the case with this new treatment.
Figure 4: Many of the treated Mozambique rubies had unhealed
fissures in-filled with a glass-like
or vitreous material. Ancillary fiber-optic lighting reflects off the
in-filled fissures, making them
readily visible. This contrasts to
the very low relief of the leadglass filling of a Composite Ruby.
ally heated rubies. Therefore, AGL has decided to address

these stones within the context of disclosure already existent for such rubies. For
those stones where the
majority of what is taking
place involves the healing
of ssures, the traditional
disclosure nomenclature
addressing the quantity
of heating residues will be
applied (gure 7).
For those stones that
possess a combination
Figure 6: This ruby, with both
of ssure healing and infissures that were healed and inlling, to better represent
filled, was exposed to common
the dual nature of what
procedures of a bench jeweler.
has taken place and is
Re-tipping caused some areas
present in these particular
of the in-filled fissures to bubble
rubies, AGL will expand
while others were left unaffected.
its disclosure information.
Figure 7: The dominant feature resulting from this latest treatment

is the healing of fissures. Heating residues are quantified.
Figure 5: Glass-filled cavities were a common feature of the heated

Mozambique rubies. The lower luster of the glass made them easy
to distinguish (left). The lead-glass filled cavities present in a Composite Ruby are more difficult to detect due to the close R.I. match
of the lead-glass to the ruby (right).
From our durability studies, immersion in the pickling solution and rhodium plating produced no discernible damage.
The results are in contrast to the etching that occurs with
Composite Rubies (Smith et al., 2005; McClure et al., 2006;
Lynch, 2010). The heat of re-tipping and/or sizing, however, could cause the glass to bubble at the surface (gure 6).
These results are similar to those of the more traditionally
heated rubies possessing induced healed ssures and heating
residues (as performed by the author previously).
Report Disclosure Terminology

The overall investigation of this latest ruby heat treatment has shown that it is similar to the more traditionwww.gemstone.org
Disclosure wording will address both heating residues and

in-lling, and their extent will be indicated collectively. An
expanded description will also be provided under the comments section (gure 8).
Concluding Comments
When the rubies from the Mong Hsu area of Burma (Myanmar)
rst came to the market in the early 1990s, there was great
controversy surrounding the extent of ssure healing and glass
in-lling in many of these stones (McClure and Smith, 2000).
This topic eventually died down as treaters focused more of
the treatment process on ssure healing and the use of acids to remove the larger masses of glass at the surface of the
stones. As a result, less often were unhealed, glass in-lled ssures and cavities encountered. Today, this latest treatment of
Mozambique rubies parallels the early Mong Hsu material.
Although the extent of this treatment may be signicant,
there are several differences between this and the material
AGL classies as Composite Ruby. The glass infused into
the Composite Ruby material contains lead and/or bismuth,
as well as other potential elements to raise the refractive
GEMO LO GY
Figure 8: This stone possessed the combination of healed fissures

and in-filled fissures. Heating residues and in-filling are quantified collectively.
index of the glass to that of the host ruby. This makes it

quite difcult to ascertain the true extent of the treatment
without partially dissolving the glass. For the treatment discussed here, the features are readily visible permitting the
true extent of the healing and in-lling to be determined.
Initial durability tests indicate that these stones
have fewer special-care requirements than Composite
Rubies and that their characteristics more closely resemble
those of traditionally heated rubies with heating residues
when exposed to conditions in a jewelers workshop or
Three types of ruby currently available in the market
Unheated Ruby: A ruby that possesses the intrinsic quality endowed by
nature.
Potential additional enhancements:
Clarity Oiling of fissures
Heated Ruby: A stable enhancement method.
Potential additional enhancements:
Clarity Fissure healing*
Clarity Fissure healing* and In-filling
Diffusion Beryllium diffusion
Composite Ruby: An amalgam of natural ruby and glass. Special care
required.
*Heating residues is a term used when describing a healed fissure. It was developed to represent
the compound nature of what happens to the fluxing agents used during a more traditional
heating procedure. Upon cooling, fissures are healed and what remains along the traces of these
previous open fissures is re-grown (synthetic) corundum, a vitreous melt (glass), and tiny voids
(contraction bubbles). A combination of these three components defines heating residues.
6XEVFULEHWR
,Q&RORU
1 year - 4 issues $50.00

Mail this form along with your check or Credit Card details to:
International Colored Gemstone Association
19 West 21st Street, Suite #705
New York, NY 10010 U.S.A.
Tel: [1] (212) 620-0900 Fax: [1] (212) 352-9054
ica@gemstone.org www.gemstone.org
46
commercial household products. Professional bench jewelers should already be familiar with the proper handling
of a heated ruby. In contrast, Composite Ruby carries with
it certain intrinsic special care requirements that must be
conveyed to bench jewelers and consumers, in order to
avoid inadvertent damage to the stones.
Over the past two years, Mozambique has become an
important source of rubies of all three types: Unheated,
Heated, and Composite (see sidebar). This treatment has
made these stones an interesting low-cost alternative for
those who dont want to work with Composite Rubies yet
are having difculties in obtaining heated rubies of nonBurmese origin since rubies from Burma (Myanmar) are
banned in the U.S. and elsewhere.
References:
AGL (13 November 2007) AGL modifies its disclosure policy on lead-glass filled
rubies. http://www.aglgemlab.com/News/composite%20ruby.pdf
AGL (3 May 2010) AGL Will Not Be Classifying New Ruby Treatment As
Composite Ruby. http://www.aglgemlab.com/News/New%20Ruby%20TreatmentMay%202010-AGL.pdf
GIT-GTL (Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand - Gem testing Laboratory: 2009).
Some characteristics of Mozambique ruby. http://www.git.or.th/eng/testing_center_en/
lab_notes_en/glab_en/2009/GIT_article_ruby_mozambique_web.pdf
GIT-GTL (Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand - Gem testing Laboratory:
2010). New ruby deposits in Mozambique. http://www.git.or.th/eng/testing_center_en/
lab_notes_en/glab_en/2010/new_ruby_deposits_mozambique.pdf
LMHC Information sheet #3: Corundum with glass filled fractures and/or cavities
enhancing the clarity. http://www.giathai.net/pdf/IS3_18012010.pdf
Lynch C.A. (2010) Is that really a ruby? Private publication Ouellet & Lynch, pp. 46.
McClure S.F., Smith C.P. (2000) Gemstone enhancement and detection in the 1990s.
Gems & Gemology, Vol. 36, No. 4, pp. 336-359.
McClure S.F., Smith C.P., Wang W., Hall M. (2006) Identification and durability
of lead glass-filled rubies. Gems & Gemology, Vol. 42,
No. 1, pp. 22-34.
Pardieu V., Thanachakaphad J., Jacquat
S., Senoble J.B., Bryl L.P. (2009) Rubies from
First Name __________________
the Niassa and Cabo Delgado regions of
Last Name __________________
Northern Mozambique. http://www.giathai.
Company ___________________
net/pdf/Niassa_Mozambique_Ruby_SeptemAddress ____________________
ber13_2009.pdf
___________________________
Pardieu V., Sturman N., Saesaew S., Du Toit
___________________________
G., Thirangoon K. (2010) FAPFH/GFF Treated
Ruby from Mozambique. http://www.giathai.net/
City _______________________
pdf/Flux_heated_and_glass_filled_rubies_from_
State ______________________
Mozambique.pdf
Zip _______________________
Smith C.P., McClure S.F., Wang W., Hall M.
Country ___________________
(2005) Some characteristics of lead-glass-filled
Tel _______________________
corundum. Jewellery News Asia, November, No.
E-mail _____________________
255, pp. 79-84.
Smith C.P. (2010) Mozambique Rubies. Gems &
Jewellery. Vol. 19, No. 1, pp. 3-5.
www.gemstone.org
GE MOLOGY
AIGS Lab Launches

Master Gemstone Report
he Asian Institute of Gemological SciencesAIGS Laboratory has launched a new Master

Gemstone Report (MG Report). The MG
Report is based on a proprietary star-based system, similar to quality analysis ratings used in
ratings guides for hotels and restaurants.
The AIGS Ruby and Sapphire Grading
system was launched over 30 years ago by
Robert Weiser and Henry Ho, founders of the
Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences, Asias
rst professional gemological school and
gem-testing laboratory.
According to AIGS president, Henry Ho,
the MG Report evolved from the concept of
quality branding. This document assures the
consumer that the gemstone has been prequalied, possessing attributes of excellence
and distinction, and will assist them in making
better decisions in determining the quality of
the gemstone, said Mr. Ho.
A key objective of the AIGS Ruby and
Sapphire System is to speak the language of
the trade and to translate and introduce that
language internationally. The AIGS Master
Color Chart for Ruby and Sapphire is being updated and will be reproduced this year.
AIGS incorporated the grading system into
the AIGS Accredited Gemologist program to
provide students a complete education, involving not only gem identication and theoretical
knowledge but also to give an understanding
about qualities, prices, market history, trends,
and sources.
AIGS uses master stones for color comparison and is a pioneer in introducing a standard
lighting and viewing environment by engaging
Mitsubishi Lighting Corporation in the late 1970s to produce a desk lamp named Daylight 99, which possesses
the highest color rendering index of 99. The Daylight 99
was very popular among gemstone dealers in Thailand and
used in many ofces and factories, especially in the quality
and sorting department.
AIGS also developed a clarity scale not dissimilar to
concepts used in the diamond industry to describe the
purity of cut diamonds. The clarity grade is based upon
www.gemstone.org
the number of inclusions, its size, location, type, and

color present in the stone. The cutting of a gemstone
also plays an important role in determining the gems
quality, taking into account its symmetry, proportions,
and polish.
The AIGS Ruby and Sapphire Grading System, used for
the MG Report, factors in an overall grade given to color,
clarity, and cut as well as additional attributes such as the degree of color shift, color change, pleochroism, uorescence,
and other optical phenomenon.
E D U C AT I O N
Federation for European

Education in Gemology
By Aurlien Delaunay, National Institute of
Gemology, ING France
Gemology has become a key discipline for people

working in the gem and jewelry trade. This science is in
constant evolution as new treatments, syntheses, or gems
are discovered and/or developed. The objective of the
FEEG is to develop a high level of gemological knowledge in the European Union. To do so, the gemological
institutes share important amounts of information to
remain on top of current developments.
The two-week training program is given in the language
of each member institute. Numerous domains are taught,
48
such as mineralogy, geology, physics, optics, chemistry,

etc. Students learn how to identify gem material whether
treated or not, synthetic or natural. All new treatments and
syntheses are discussed with identication criteria in order
to prepare the students for the realities of the trade.
Scientic identication techniques are detailed such as
UV-Visible and infrared spectroscopy, X-radiography,
LA-ICPMS, etc. Collection gemstones such as ekanite,
sinhalite, prehnite, cuprite, for example, are also included
in the training.
The courses end with a two-part examination. The
rst part is a theoretical multiple-choice questionnaire
of 100 questions about all the subjects taught during the
two weeks. The second part is a practical exercise during which students have to identify twelve gemstones in
four hours. The identity of the gems must be determined,
along with the indication as to whether they are treated or
synthetic, when possible.
In 2009, 38 students took part in FEEG workshops in all
the institutes and the success rate was close to 70 percent.
The diplomas were given to them at a joint gathering to
which all members of the institutes members were invited.
This day was also a time of knowledge sharing through
conferences and discussions on gemological topics.
The FEEG diploma becomes essential in gemological
vital skills and knowledge. By grouping many institutions,
including ING-France, it acquires an important international importance that increases from year to year.
www.gemstone.org
Photos ING
n 1996, eight gemological institutes founded the Federation for European Education in Gemology (F.E.E.G.).
Today, FEEG diploma regroups twelve institutes in
eight countries.
Q Gemmologische Akademie Linz (Austria)
Q sterreichische Gemmologische Gesellschaft (Austria)
Q Academie voor Mineralogie (Belgium)
Q Socit Belge de Gemmologie (Belgium)
Q Institut National de Gemmologie (ING) (France)
Q Deutsche Gemmologische Gesellschaft (Germany)
Q Gem-A (Great Britain)
Q Istituto Gemmologico Italiano (Italy)
Q Dutch Gemmological Institute (Netherlands)
Q Netherlands Gemmological Laboratory (Netherlands)
Q Escola de Gemmologia de la Universitat de
Barcelona (Spain)
Q Instituto Gemolgico Espaol (Spain)
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IND UST RY N E WS
GILC Opens Discussion on Key Issues
he Gemstone Industry and Laboratory Conference

(GILC) returned to Tucson in February 2010, bringing together experts from laboratories around the
world, including many members of the LMHC and CIBJO.
Also in attendance were members of the trade from the
wholesale and retail sectors, and leaders from major international organizations who provided valuable insight and
perspective to the discussions.
Participation in the GILC was nearly double the expectations of the organizer, the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA). At this time, ICA is making plans
to move the 2011 event in Tucson to a larger venue.
The GILC agenda was planned with a few hot topics
of debate, one of which was opened with a presentation
on nomenclature for glass-lled rubies by Christopher P.
Smith, president of American Gemological Laboratories.
The ensuing discussion demonstrated that there was a variety of opinion among attendees. GILC chairman Sushil
Goyal moved to form a committee within GILC to discuss
the issue further. He suggested the committee work on
developing an acceptable commercial name with proper
disclosure for this product.
ICA vice president Jean Claude Michelou (left) began a discussion

on fair trade and ethical mining at the GILC. Also shown left to
right: Wilson Yuen, ICA president; Sushil Goyal, GILC chairman; and
Edward Boehm, ICA director.
Another important discussion centered on treatments

applied to emeralds. Dr. Lore Kiefert, Chief Gemologist,
Gubelin Gem Lab, addressed the topic Emerald Treatments
Detection and Laboratory Reports. A GILC committee was
formed to address issues specically related to emeralds.
Many attendees were looking forward to a debate on
andesine. This topic was opened with a presentation aptly
titled, Controversies on Origins, Treatments, and Disclosures, by Dr. Ahmadjan Abduriyim of the Gemological
50
This years Gemstone Industry and Laboratory Conference (GILC)

in Tucson attracted nearly double the participants as expected.
Association of All Japan who has visited andesine mines

in Tibet and Mongolia. A taskforce was quickly assembled
whose rst action was to set up a trip to the andesine mines
with a large group of gemologists and gem experts.
ICA vice president Jean Claude Michelou began a discussion on fair trade and ethical mining as it applies to
colored gemstones, revealing a concrete proposal for a
simplied concept of certication for gemstone-producing
countries based on poverty reduction, capacity building,
and value addition, from the artisanal miners supply chain
to the market. The subject opened the discussion for the
participation of gem labs and their roles in the domain of
ethical gemstones and fair-trading processes.
A discussion on the ndings of the Gemological
Institute of America on Radioactive Uranium Mineral as
Inclusions in Turquoise, presented by Shane McClure,
caught many attendees by surprise, and generated a urry
of questions. A committee was formed to look into this
subject further and give recommendations to regulate
the import of this product in accordance with the U.S.
Nuclear Regulatory Commission guidelines.
Dr. Pornsawat Wathanakul, academic adviser for the
Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand presented GITs
extensive work on establishing colored stone grading standards and how their work supports the Thai governments
mandate to sustain the growth of the Thai gem and jewelry industry through numerous projects. (Complete details
on Thailands initiatives can be found in the Cover Story
in this issue of InColor.)
A forum for GILC was launched in April and is open for
general discussion, as well as closed committee discussions
at www.gilcforum.org. The scheduling of future meetings will
be posted on the forum. The next tentative date is set for
September 2010 in Hong Kong.
www.gemstone.org
BOOK RE VIE W
The Stunning Mineral Collection of

the Sorbonne University in Paris
Review by Delphine Leblanc
rance was on the cutting edge of mineralogy in the 18th

century, and the creation of specialized universities in
the 19th century laid the foundation for building vast
mineral collections. Today, Paris hosts three famous mineral
collections located in: the Museum dHistoire Naturelle; the
Ecole des Mines; and the Sorbonne. The Sorbonne Collection is more precisely called the Collection UPMC La
Sorbonne, and is located at 4 Place Jussieu in the heart of
Paris Latin Quarter. It assembles more than 1,000 exhibited
specimens (of a total of some 13,500) representing more
than 500 different minerals and is devoted to scholars and
artists. Since 1971, the collection is open to the public.
Minraux remarquables de la Collection UPMC La Sorbonne, a
beautiful coffee table book,
written in French and
English, presents the best
specimens of this collection
with full-scale color reproductions, a rare feature for
such work. The pictures,
taken on a black background, deserve a special
comment. Clinically precise, they are not showy or
over-lighted but rather are a
Cover of Minraux remarqua- good depiction of what one
bles de la Collection UPMC La would see when visiting
Sorbonne. Edited by Jean Claude the collection.
After a foreword by famous U.S. collector, Steve Smale,

is a preface by Jean Claude Boulliard, curator and author of
texts, and Orso Martinelli, photographer of the collection. A
selection of 151 specimens starts with native elements, then
halides, oxides, suldes, carbonates, organic compounds,
sulfates, phosphates, and the large family of silicates. Each
mineral is described in detail as well as how it was obtained.
This is followed by various interesting sections on:
Photographing Mineral Art; A History of the Mineral Collection from the Sorbonne to UPMC; Mineral Collections
Throughout History; and Collection Minerals. These sections contain interesting perspectives on mineralogy and the
evolution and history of the discipline itself as well as trends
in mineral collections. The last section explains the objective and subjective criteria for evaluating specimens and the
various goals of todays private and public collections.
Some specimens are iconsspectacular and unique pieces. Some specimens are totemsdened as exceptional and
masterpieceknown to the entire mineralogical community.
Needless to say, totems are often very photogenic, and
attract visitors to a museum.
While the book is a well-documented overview of the
Sorbonne Collection, it goes further by giving readers
a broader understanding of minerals and collections. It
also offers interesting insights into a curators mind. A
must-have for gemologists and acionados alike.
Minraux remarquables de la Collection UPMC La Sorbonne: Edited by Jean
Claude Boulliard, 255 pp., illus., publ. by Editions Le Pommier, Paris, 2009.
US$125.00
Boulliard.
Rutile on hematite. 21 x 16 x 14 cm.

Ibitiara, Bahia, Brazil. Rutile can often
be found in quartz as beautiful, soughtafter inclusions.
www.gemstone.org
Verdelite Elbaite. 7.5 x 2.2 x 2.3 cm. Bevaondrano, Ikalamavony, Madagascar. An elongated
tourmaline crystal showing an incredible natural
green color.
Microcline (amazonite) and morion

quartz. 29 x 27 x 26 cm. Lake George,
Colorado, United States.
TRADE SHOWS
Full Steam Ahead for Color in Tucson

The 56th edition of the largest
and most popular event in the
gem world took place in Tucson,
Arizona in February 2010.
By Delphine Leblanc, GG
he mood was denitely upbeat compared to last year,

with many exhibitors in Tucson reporting that buyers
seemed committed to restocking their inventory in a
wide variety of gemstones and pearls. The AGTA GemFair
also reported a seven percent increase in buyer trafc.
For minerals, one of the highlights was the high-end
show at the Westward Look resort held February 5 to 8.
Later, the TGMS (Tucson Gem and Mineral Show) during
February 11 to 14 was a mineral extravaganza. Nobody had
ever seen so many gemstones in the exhibition displays this
year, nor as many gemmy minerals among dealers. Several
trends were seen for minerals and gemstones.
A profusion of high quality topaz was evident. Several
beautiful minerals were shown at TGMS, which included
colorful imperial topazes from Ouro Preto, Minas Gerais in
Brazil. These samples were unsurpassed in color and quality
and were beautiful examples of rough and cut stones.
Rough and cut Imperial topaz from Ouro Preto, Brazil.
Many gemstone dealers presented beautiful imperial topaz

in strong colors. With a delicate peach hue, they are an affordable alternative to Padparadsha sapphire. Several exhibitors at the GJX presented very ne gemstones in vivid hues
such as this 20.67-carat orange Imperial topaz from Brazil.
52
Renowned for their

bluish green hue and
clean crystals, Zambian
emeralds are not new
to gemstones connoisseurs. Since last year,
the minerals from the
Kafubu mining district
have been extracted
and sold in the rough.
Imperial topaz from Brazil (20.67 cts), Presented for the rst
gemstone courtesy of Constantin Wild. time in Denver in
2009, these beautiful
long emerald crystals
in their quartz matrix
were back in Tucson
this year.
High-end emerald
gemstones were also
presented such as this
high quality 20-carat
square cushion cut emerald at the GJX. The
stone was certied untreated. Some other
dealers were showing
very high quality emeralds with diversied allure, such as rare
trapiche emerald caboEmerald on quartz from Zambia; chons. Another rare emmineral courtesy of Collectors Edge.
erald came from eastern
Madagascar, such as a
10.01-carat oval specimen.
Heliodor beryls were
very present in the show.
This mineral comes in huge
crystals and the market
seems to appreciate more
and more its unusual greenish-yellow color. A group
of three imposing heliodor
crystals from Ukraine was
exhibited at TGMS.
Along with rare natural Cushion-cut 20.00-carat emrubies, red spinels were the erald; gemstone courtesy of
sensation of the show. Some Joseph Menzie Inc.
www.gemstone.org
TRADE SHOWS
Heliodor beryl sculpture representing a frog (3555 carats); gem

carving courtesy of Henn GmbH.
Oval-cut spinel (20.80 carats)

from Mahenge, Tanzania; gemstone courtesy of Dudley Blauwet
Gems.
Cats eye chrysoberyl (25.03 carats) from Sri Lanka; gemstone

courtesy of Henn GmbH.
www.gemstone.org
of the best dealers had masterfully cut them into fancy

cuts over 20 carats. Shown
here is the only stone over
20 carats with a unique pure
red hue. It comes from Mahenge in Tanzania, known
for magnicent red spinels.
A sign of the times, some
dealers had put together calibrated spinels set for highend necklaces including all
shades of pink, red, blue,
and violet. Some bracelet
sets in orange and pink hues
were also shown.
As for gems with special
effects, there were several
remarkable gemstones such
as this superb 25.03-carat
cats eye chrysoberyl. The
stone exhibited a strong
milk and honey effect allied with an exceptional
transparency.
What was new in opals?
Found at the GJX: Ethiopian opals, cut and facetted
locally, were translucent
with yellow body color and
showing all the rainbow color of opals.
There was no real new
nd or new gemstones for
this Tucson edition, however, new cuts and new styles
offered a novelty, adding
diversity to the gemstones
presented. For the rst time,
the branded Torus-ring cut
was presented at a show.
Cutting of these gemstones
takes ve times longer than
for a classical shape. These
stones also come in a variety
of materials including the
very rare, such as this set of
Paraiba tourmalines in various shades of blue.
The Idar-Oberstein Group
Pavilion at the GJX is always
Three Ethiopian pear-shape drop opals; gemstones courtesy

of Opalinda.
a must-see. Gem carvers inspired by contemporary shapes

showcased their newest creations. In a more whimsical gurative style, one could also admire the blossoming owers
made out of tourmaline from Madagascar with incredible
texture and realistic details.
In conclusion,
visitors and dealers
in Tucson this year
seemed pleasantly
surprised by the
level of attendance
and number of
transactions.
Gemstones seem
to have recovered
and sold better
than minerals this Six Torus-ring cut Paraiba tourmalines by
year. The minerals Glenn Lehrer (from left to right: 2.10 carats,
seemed somehow 2.84 carats, 1.41 carats, 2.01 carats, 0.81
shorter and smaller carats and 0.84 carats; gemstones courtesy
than last year with of Gem 2000.
less amboyant clusters of
multicolor minerals bursting out like reworks. Spinels were still very strong.
The peachy orange, red,
and pink hues, or any gemstone downplaying Padparadsha sapphire, were still
very much in demand along
with green gemstones. The
Tourmaline carving of a plume- rest of the year will conria flower, 3.5 cm wide; gemstone rm this recovery and these
courtesy of Nebert.
color trends.
All photos courtesy of Delphine Leblanc, unless otherwise indicated.
TREN D S
Color in the Desert

The annual February pilgrimage
to the Arizona desert for gem and
jewelry dealers ended on an optimistic note this year.
By Cynthia Unninayar
ike an alphabet soup for the gemstone industry, the

AGTA, GLDA, and GJX attracted thousands of dealers and buyers for both gemstones and jewelry from
around the world. Add to that the private by-invitationonly Centurion show and the whole range of jewelry was
represented in the desert city of Tucson.
Renewed Hope
With optimism that the economic crisis may be over,
expectations at all the shows were hopeful yet realistic.
The Centurion show
was the rst on the
jewelry calendar and,
in a complete mood
turnaround from the
doldrums of last year,
the ambiance was
very upbeat. The hallways were crowded,
the booths were busy,
Gold ring with center 4.34-ct rubel- and most exhibitors
lite, two golden beryls, and six tanza- expressed great satisnites by Julia Behrends.
faction at the results.
Ring in blackened gold with

uvarovite, diamonds, and
cobalto by Noam Carver.
54
Tanzanite and diamond pendant by Paula Crevoshay.
Show president, Howard

Hauben, explained, The
sold-out Collection Floor,
featuring more than 100
salons, was busy for all of
the three show days, providing a marked contrast to Spessartite and diamond ring
the 2009 show. This year, by Gordon Aatlo.
store attendance surged by
14 percent to 206 retail operations.
Increased attendance and optimism was also seen at the
AGTA (American Gem Trade Association) GemFair. Ofcials reported a total of 8,176 registered buyers at the
event, an increase of 7 percent over last year. We were
encouraged to see an increase in the number of buyers at
GemFair and the enthusiasm they brought to the show
oor, said AGTA CEO Douglas Hucker. Economic times
have dictated a change for jewelers who may not have
considered color before to now take a second look as they
search for products in a range of price points that offer a
good turn on margins.
And color there was, as jewelers at Centurion and at
the various other venues showcased a wide range of colorful gemstone pieces. All colors were represented, with
designs ranging from small
and simple to stunning and
sophisticated, at all price
points. Since photos speak
more than words, a few of
the beautiful colored gemstone pieces are shown here.
All photos are courtesy of
the individual designers.
Earrings in aquamarine,
smoky quartz, and gold
by Julieli Pure Jewelry.
Diamond and sapphire

pendant by Gumuchian.
www.gemstone.org
TRE NDS
Tribute to Campbell Bridges

The best-attended event during the Tucson shows was
a special tribute to the late Campbell Bridges during the
annual International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA)
reception on February 3, co-sponsored
by GIA and AGTA.
GIAs Robert Weldon
gave a moving presentation of the life
of this well-loved and
respected discoverer
of tsavorite in photos and in words.
The Bridges family,
including Campbells
wife Judith and their
children, Bruce and
Laura, as well as many
family members and
friends ew into
Laura, Bruce, and Judith Campbell at
Tucson to attend the
the tribute to Campbell Bridges held
tribute. Bruce Bridges
during the ICA reception in Tucson.
emotional remembrance of his legendary father included the tragic details of the last moments of
his life when Campbell was slainand Bruce was seriously
woundedby a group of illegal miners who attacked them
near the Bridges famous tsavorite Scorpion mine in Kenya.
Bruce also thanked the ICA for its collective efforts to rally
support of the international gemstone community in efforts
to seek justice for Campbell and prosecution of the known
perpetrators, one of whom was arrested the day after the
ICA reception. A story to be followed
A 3.95-ct heart-shaped tsavorite set with diamonds in gold by the

late Campbell Bridges, the discoverer of tsavorite.
www.gemstone.org
MARKE T T R EN D S
BaselWorld 2010 Looking Ahead

The optimism at the 2010 edition
of BaselWorld could be clearly
seen as brands look ahead with
renewed hope.
By Cynthia Unninayar
aselWorld 2010 opened on

an upbeat note on March
18 and the mood continued throughout the eight-day
show. According to show ofcials, 100,700 trade professionals attended the showa seven
percent increase over last year.
Exhibitors were down very
slightly at 1915, not too surprising given the economic situation.
Jacques J. Duchne, president of
the Exhibitors Committee, drew
a very positive conclusion from Pearl and gemstone
the results. We are delighted earrings in 18K gold by
with this years BaselWorld. Australian brand Autore.
Without being euphoric, we can
optimistically look ahead this year.
From a design point of view, it was evident that most
jewellery brands have faced the challenges of the downturn
with new and innovative products.
Hollow, lightweight and lacy
Multi-colored gemstone and

diamond Fairy Tales brooch
in 18K gold by Russian brand
Jewellery Theatre.
Photos courtesy of individual brands.
Even watches are taking on

color as in this timepiece set
with sapphires and diamonds
by Italian brand Damiani.
Tibetan andesine ring with

diamonds in 18K gold by
Chinese brand, TTF Studio.
Rings in 18K gold set with
a variety of gemstones by
British brand Rodney Rayner.
56
designs are very popular,

while contemporary metals such as titanium, steel,
and bronze are now mainstream for upscale designers.
Silver has been promoted
once again to the status of
a precious metal, and its
use in designer pieces continues unabated, both as in
Peacock bangle in multi-colored the form of the white metal
gemstones, diamonds, and 18K alone or with diamonds and
gold by Thai brand Zorab Atelier colored gemstones.
Color continues to play a
de Cration.
very large role in ne jewelry,
with all colors, and even all mixes of colors, apparent in a
wide range of price points and qualities. With affordable
luxury on everyones lips, many designers are pairing the
traditional sapphires, emeralds, and rubies with less expensive stones for a bigger look at a more reasonable price.
BaselWorld 2011 will be held March 24 to 31.
Pendant in a variety of colored

gems and diamonds set in 18K gold
by French brand, Mathon Paris.
www.gemstone.org
T R A D E FA I R S
Positive Optimism Marks the

45th Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair
he 45th Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair has turned

out to be one of the best in recent years. Overall
results, in terms of sales and orders reported by exhibitors, were far better than expected. This was despite
the uncertain local political
situation that dampened the
mood of the fairs opening day,
Friday February 26th, but the
fair proceeded as planned over
the following four days.
The BGJF is internationally
recognized as one of the top
ve gems and jewelry exhibitions in the world, frequented by
leading gemstone buyers from
around the globe. This year,
the Thai Gem &
Jewelry Traders Association (TGJTA)
launched a successful Ploi Thai branding campaign, supported by
the Thai government, in order to further promote Thailand as a gemstone and jewelry hub.
A Ploi Thai Pavilion featuring gem-studded
jewelry manufactured in Thailand was a new
edition to the fair. The Ploi Thai initiative is
spearheaded by Somchai Phornchindarak, vice
president of TGJTA and CEO of the Bangkok
Gems & Jewelry Fair, and it goes hand in hand
with the TGJTAs push to make Thailand the worlds gems
and jewelry hub by 2014.
Ploi is the Thai word for colored gemstones, but the
Ploi Thai branding applies to all kinds of gemstones and jewelry produced in Thailand, said
Somchai. When people
think of diamonds, they
think of Belgium, When
they think of watches, its
Switzerland. I want people around the world to
think of Thailand when
they talk about gems and
jewelry, and have Ploi
www.gemstone.org
Thai in their minds as the countrys quality gems and

jewelry brand.
The star business category of the fair was claimed once
again by the silver jewelry sector, which did very well.
Silver is clearly recovering much of the market share that
it lost in previous
years. Gold jewelry did well too.
The
gemstone
section was satisfactory overall
with many vendors
reporting
brisk sales. It was
clear that more serious buyers were
attending the fair.
This is to be expected, because economic strictures doubtless discourage
many visitors who go just to view and admire. When times
are hard, it is left for the single-minded trader to carry the
corporate ag to the international fairs.
The 45th Bangkok Gems & Jewelry
Fair showcased the world-class skills of
Thailands home-grown artisans, thereby encouraging industry links with
traders from around the globe and offering participants the chance of being
at the center of the gem industry.
The next edition of the Bangkok
Gems & Jewelry Fair, the 46th, will
run September 7 to 11, 2010 at the
Impact Challenger venue. (www.bangkokgemsfair.com)
T R A D E FA I R S
More Buyers, More Buying

Power in Hong Kong
he organizer of the Hong Kong International

Jewellery Show, held in early March, reported a
28 percent increase in overseas buyer attendance,
fueling hopes that consumer condence is growing and
the retail sector is bouncing back.
Overall, the 32,000 buyers who converged on the
Hong Kong Exhibition & Convention Centre for this
ve-day show represented a nine percent increase over
last years show attendance during the same time period.
Lawrence Ma, Chairman of the HKTDC Hong Kong
58
International Jewellery Show,

reported that the Hong Kong
Trade Development Council,
through its worldwide ofces,
recruited buyers from 123
countries and regions.
We saw encouraging gures and a strong response to
the jewelry show this year,
said Ma. The buyer attendance gures tell us that the
retail market is in recovery, not
only from mature markets such
as Europe and the U.S., but also
from emerging markets such as
Eastern Europe and India.
After a four-year wait, the
ICA Pavilion was expanded
to 396 square meters allowing
42 member companies to participate in this popular show.
Exhibitors reported seeing a noticeable increase in the number of buyers from mainland
China and seemed to agree that
Buyer Attendance:
the biggest buyers were from
Mature Markets
Asian countries. A great numUnited States: +38%
ber of exhibitors noted a draItaly: +20%
matic increase in the number
United Kingdom: +22%
of buyers from Russia as well,
France: +30%
where the demand for colored
South Korea: +43%
gemstones remains strong.
Chinese buyers continue
Buyer Attendance:
to favor emerald and tourmaEmerging Markets
line, especially green and pink
Chinese mainland: +21%
tourmaline, while ruby, blue
India: +117%
sapphire, and pink sapphire
Russia: +96%
held their market share. Other exhibitors commented that
bold beautiful color in larger size stones also got quite a bit
of attention from Chinese buyers.
Ofcial gures from the HKTDC conrm exhibitor
comments regarding buyers at the show.
This years HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show featured more than 2,600 exhibitors from 44
countries and regions, a new record, and up more than 13
percent over last year.
www.gemstone.org
EXPERTISE THAT SPREADS CONFIDENCE.

AROUND THE WORLD AND AROUND THE CLOCK.
ISRAEL 5 : 0 0 P M
Cutter checks parameters online with
GIA Facetware Cut Estimator.
NEW YORK
10:00 A M
GIA Master Color Comparison Diamonds
conrm color quality of a fancy yellow.
CARLSBAD
7:00 AM
MUMBAI 7 : 3 0 P M
Staff gemologist submits new ndings on
coated diamonds to GIA global database.
Laboratory technicians calibrate

measurement devices before
the days production begins.
HONG KONG 10 : 0 0 P M
Wholesaler views grading results and requests
additional services online at My Laboratory.
BANGKOK 9:00 P M
Gemologist confers with Carlsbad lab
about ruby country of origin.
All across the planet, GIA labs and gemological reports are creating a common language for accurate, unbiased gemstone
evaluation. From convenient locations in major gem centers, to frontline detection of emerging treatments and synthetics,
to online services that include ordering, tracking, and report previews GIA is pioneering the technology, tools and talent
that not only ensure expert service, but also advance the public trust in gems and jewelry worldwide.
W W W. G I A . E D U
For more information on

GIAs education, research and
laboratory facilities in Bangkok,
visit www.giathailand.com or
email: giathai@ksc.th.com
CARLSBAD
DUBAI
NEW YORK
MOSCOW
LONDON
MUMBAI
ANTWERP
BANGKOK
FLORENCE
HONG KONG
GABORONE
TAIPEI
SEOUL
JOHANNESBURG
OSAKA
TOKYO

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Cover designed by Claudiu Magarit.

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The Uses, Potential, and Risks of Analytical Equipment in Gemology

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Full Steam Ahead for Color in Tucson

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