Lookout Qatar

Market Watch

Fine Things
Precise movements and precious gems come to the
2015 Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: BAUME ET MERCIER; CARTIER; DAVID WEBB; IWC; HERMES; GARRARD

Clockwise from top left: Clifton in alligator strap, Baume et Mercier; Ronde Louis in filigree
panther motif, Cartier; Snake bracelet with carved coral, emeralds and diamonds, David Webb; Portugieser
annual calendar, IWC; Medor mini steel with diamonds geranium, Hermes; Wings collection duo ring, Garrard.

24

T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine

ALL PRICES ARE INDICATIVE

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JAEGER-LECOULTRE; LONGINES; MIKIMOTO; PIAGET; PASQUALE BRUNI; ZENITH; VACHERON CONSTANTIN;
MOUAWAD

Clockwise from top left: Rendez-vous Celestial automatic,

Jaeger-LeCoultre; Conquest 1/100th Horse Racing,
Longines; adjustable necklace with Akoya cultured pearl,
coral, jadeite and diamond, Mikimoto; Black Tie vintage
inspiration in pink gold, Piaget; special Bon Ton edition in
fluorescent lemon, Pasquale Bruni ; Academy tribute to
Felix Baumgartner edition, Zenith; The Year of the Goat
series in platinum, Vacheron Constantin; Source de Vie ring
in sapphires and diamonds, Mouawad.

January - February 2015

25

Lookout Qatar

This and That

Ahead of Its Time

The Third Personality

Karl Lagerfeld expands
his fashion universe.
In the 1949 British cult noir film The Third Man, novelist Holly
Martins explores an extension of himself through the
projection of a third personality an idea that the multifaceted designer Karl Lagerfeld references in the work of his
own eponymous label. In Lagerfelds context, the first two
roles as long-time creative director of both Chanel and Fendi
have shaped what most of the public perceives, but in Karl
Lagerfeld brand is the image of a third woman closest to his
personal style and taste. Its a proposition many women can
identify without being part of a special category, he explains.
Theres a definitive monochrome look to the collections,
much like the black and white outfit that Lagerfeld has always
worn, finished off with a sense of punk. It is also within this
label that Lagerfeld has expounded on his universe, giving
rise to Karlism a collection of quotes that gives vision to
his clothes and Karl Daily a newspaper dedicated to his
views and works. The inaugural Karl Lagerfeld boutique in the
region finds its home in Lagoona Mall, spanning 80 square
meters and equipped with interactive technology to bring to
life the world of Karl. The designer has long been inspired by
old Arab culture (what we call in Europe, Orientalism) and
the stylized designs of Arab calligraphy, ceramics and tiles. As
for the rising style makers from this region, I love the look
and style of Arab women that are unique to their culture, he
says. DEBRINA ALIYAH

22

T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine

you buy one of our timepieces you become

part of a lasting legacy. These watches are
built for watch connoisseurs. They are
limited pieces for serious buyers. The first
watch starts at $7,000 (QR25,490).
Chorao mentions some of the many
unique features of the timekeepers, The
watches dont rust and need no service, for
life. In a competitive industry, this is a
company unafraid of imitations. We are not
so concerned about counterfeits. It is not
easy to duplicate these pieces because
each watch is full of complex mechanisms.
The Freak piece, for example, has no hands
and no dial. ABIGAIL MATHIAS

THE LIST
Bvlgari Diva, Heathrow
airport price, 285
(QR 1,580); Mulberry
Oxblood Lily in Ostrich
Mix, 2083.33
(QR11,480).

The Lives of the Rich and Famous

A new research conducted among High Net Worth (HNW) individuals in Qatar has
revealed that nearly three quarters (72%) prefer to spend money on quality experiences
rather than owning more luxury items. The research, commissioned by Heathrow
Airports VIP Service, revealed that a desire for privacy was the main motivation for
choosing experiences rather than acquiring more possessions. It is with providing this
exclusivity that Heathrow Airports VIP Service was made available to First Class and
Business Class travellers, flying on any airline to or from Heathrow.
The service is designed to offer travellers total privacy, with a personal lounge where
both check-in and security are taken care of, and a luxury limousine delivers the
passenger directly to the steps of the departing flight. Lubna Shaddad Rojas, Personal
Shopper at Heathrow Airport says: As a stylist, my job is to do the hard work for the
shopper, says Rojas. I find things based on my customers brief and collect it from
stores located across all our different terminals.
Qatari customers seem to have fallen prey to this indulgence as research shows that
Qatari customers are among the region's most frequent users of the service, according
to Rojas. Around 32,000 Qataris visited our stylists last year. The average spend of our
Qatari customer was around QR7,134 (1,200). SINDHU NAIR

ALL PRICES ARE INDICATIVE

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF KARL LAGERFELD; COURTESY OF ULYSSE NARDIN; COURTESY OF HEATHROW AIPORT SERVICE

Ulysse Nardin made its presence felt at the

recently concluded Qatar International Boat
Show (QIBS). The watchmakers have been
partnering with the boat show since its
inception; this year they showcased some
unique pieces. Christophe Chorao,
Managing Director, Middle East talks about
the timepieces that have defined his brand.
We have always been associated with
the sea, so this is a fitting place for us, says
Chorao. Keeping with the maritime activities
is a tradition that is passed through
generations, We have been the official
timekeeper for the Monaco yacht show for
more than a decade, says Chorao. When

Melting Pot
A view through the eyes of Qatari
and Brazilian artists.
The final event in the Qatar Brazil 2014 Year of Culture calender Here There
showcases the works of 42 artists from the two countries at Al Riwaq gallery
till March 30, 2015. Exploring the environmental, cultural and social aspects of
life in Qatar and Brazil, the works have been curated by three teams (one for
Qatari artists, one for Brazilian and the last dealing with artists books) spread
across five countries. While the artists chosen are mostly young (this is most
obvious in the post-modern, conceptual works of the Brazilian artists), veterans
like Ernesto Neto and Khalifa Al Obaidly are also featured. The variety of work
explores thought-provoking and challenging themes that people of both
countries will understand and relate to, says Alanoud Al Buainain, one of the
curators of Qatari art (and an artist herself). The various installations from 3D
models and murals to photographs and collapsing sculptures are intended
as a commentary on the transformation of culture and society in these two
countries; a dialogue on where we are coming from, where we are heading and
what we are losing or gaining in the process, through the eyes of the
respective countries' most impactful artists. AYSWARYA MURTHY
MAKING
CONNECTIONS
ACROSS A
THOUSAND MILES
Selected works from
the show feature
celebrated and
emerging Qatari and
Brazilian artists.

Tales From the Desert

The countrys latent filmmaking talent got its
due in the spotlight at the Ajyal Film Festival
where over two dozen short films and
documentaries created in Qatar were screened.

COURTESY OF QATAR MUSEUMS,

COURTESY OF DOHA FILM INSTITUTE

MADE IN QATAR
Left: Amreeka Laa!;
Below: Hind's Dream.

The subject matter was as varied as the storytelling styles, and it was a
unique treat to be flying to Istanbul with the national chess team only to
return to Doha 15 minutes later to fight off a horde of zombies. For the
audience, the experience was satisfying, with a range of emotions being
tugged on in short bursts of time whether they were relating to a hapless
mobile phone addict, or sympathizing with a young, expat who has been lured
into the country with the promise of a good job, or wandering the city along
with the spirit of a recently deceased woman as she gets a glimpse into the
lives of her loved ones after her death. An accomplished jury that included
Emirati animator Mohammed Saeed Harib, Bahraini artist Hala Mohammed
Al Khalifa and a veteran of Qatari theatre Saad Borshi presented several
awards for artistic vision, acting prowess, cinematography and other technical
aspects of filmmaking. Surprisingly, many of the entries were from first time
filmmakers, often students. From stunning CGI to compelling claymation, the
two nights were testimony to the technical mastery of young filmmakers in
the region, in addition to a glimpse into the preoccupations of the younger
generation in the country today injustice, health, communication, humanity,
horror and hope. AYSWARYA MURTHY

January - February 2015

23

Lookout Qatar

Lap of Luxury

It is All in the Details

Subtle elements that are not outwardly visible
form the arch of luxury at Stefano Ricci.

COLOR PALETTE Clockwise from top

right: the ancient silk looms at Antico
Setificio Fiorentino; the eagle head
mannequin is the house's signature; the
creation of a suit by Florentine craftsmen.

26

In the world of Stefano Ricci, the visual of the

eagle is emblematic as a mannequin head
adornment representing the men that Ricci
designs for focused, powerful and definitive in
their style. Theres a dignified air in the Doha
boutique that resounds with its highly private yet
prolific clients. Swatches of fine fabrics for
bespoke tailoring and ready-to-wear cashmeres
share space with hand-crafted home silverware.
The values of the house find an appreciative
audience this part of the world, with clients flying
in the houses master tailors at convenience. It is
an engaging process that allows the construction
of a suit to go beyond just numbers and
measurements. When the master tailor meets the
client, he will be able to derive the personality,
movements and needs of a real person, explains
Dario Donnini, the house's global sales and
strategies manager. The little details are then
communicated to the atelier back in Florence,
where befittingly, suits are crafted from hand
entirely. Life, business, friendship and even
romance, are all based on details. It is in the
details that we pursue higher standards, Donnini
says. Theres an enchanting sense of Florentine
pride to the house, as many Italian labels can
attest, traced to the refined craftsmanship of local
artisans. The preservation of artisanal work and
commercial viability have become inseparable
elements in flying the Made In Italy flag,
something that the house cemented through its
purchase of the eighteenth-century Antico Setificio
Fiorentino silk workshop in 2010.
It is the last remaining workshop in the world
that still operates antique looms to produce silk;
the semi-mechanical looms were designed by the
genius Leonardo Da Vinci himself. Working by
special commissions, the workshop produces

T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine

made-to-measure fabrics including the Uccellini

damask silk that was used by Stefano Ricci to
present a special eveningwear line. For a house
that is very much rooted in familial values, the
acquiring of the silk workshop is homage to their
ancestral lands history. Stefano and his wife
Claudia founded the house with a lifestyle vision
and now their children, Filippo and Nicolo, have
come into the business too. It is very much a
family thing, Donnini explains.
At the heart of the creative process, Stefano
himself remains the source for innovations and
new ideas. Sketches and directive on fabrics and
leather are then brought to life through the master
crafters, in a business that now expands into home
dcor and yachting interiors. There are special
requests to create garments in exotic crocodile
skins to match the interiors of cars or yachts,
Donnini says. The process entails long hours of
research for a perfect patch of leather or fabric to
create the commissioned item.
Though classical in production, the house finds
modernity in the ready-to-wear collections.
Silhouettes are updated to contemporary needs
with outerwear becoming trimmer, and fabrics are
manipulated to include cashmere and silk blends
this season. The signature lies in the details that
are noticable only to the wearer, Donnini points
out. Semi-precious stones adorn shirts and fur
collars while the Prince of Wales check is the arch
to this seasons silks. Crocodile skin accessories
are always treated to be soft to appear
unostentatious, Donnini explains. One final
gesture that is meant only for private
appreciation, is the eagle head in an octagonal
frame stitched onto the insides of jackets. After all,
even the most powerful of men needs a little selfaffirmation.

IMAGES COURTESY OF STEFANO RICCI

BY DEBRINA ALIYAH