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Fiber :

Kinds of Fiber :
1. Natural Fiber
2. Synthetic Fiber

 Natural Fiber :
1. Vegetable Fiber
2. Animal Fiber
1. Vegetable Fiber: Cotton , Linen , Jut etc.
2. Animal Fiber: Wool, Silk etc.

 Synthetic Fiber / Man Made Fiber: Viscose Rayon, Polyester, Nylon,


Acrylic etc.

Cotton:
Cotton staple is usually between 3/8 inch and 2-1/4 inch long. For making yarn ,
Cotton staple of less than inch long is not for spinning into yarn. Long staple is
High quality yarn. Short Staple is low quality yarn.

Cotton is Divided into 4 groups:


1.
2.
3.
4.

Sea Island Cotton ( Staple length 2-1/4 inch , Country: Island )


Pima Cotton (Staple Length-1-3/4 inch , Peru & Egyptian)
U.S. Cotton ( Staple Length-1-1/2 inch)
Asian Cotton ( Staple Length-1-1/8 inch, Country- Japan, China, Pakistan,
India)

Characteristics of Textile Fiber:


1. Cotton : Soft, Very absorbent, Shrinks when washed , easy to crease.
2. Ramie & Linen: Compared to cotton , not soft , Less absorbent, shrinks
when washed, but to a less extent, easy to crease.
3. Rayon: Compared to cotton, softer than cotton, equally absorbent, shrinks
more than cotton , very easy to crease, has a luster like silk.
4. Polyester: Compared to cotton, not soft, not absorbent at all, does ton
shrink in normal wash , not easy to crease.

5. Wool: Compared to cotton, not very soft, not absorbent. The staple is
slightly crimpy which can lead to a bulky effect when finally made into a
fabric. It shrinks seriously when washed in hot water. Not easy to crease.
6. Nylon: Can be soft or firm dependent on the finish applied, not absorbent,
does not shrink when washed, not easy to crease, very strong.
7. Silk: Finer and softer than cotton , equally absorbent, shrinks more than
cotton easy to crease , has a smooth surface with luster when it is made into
fabric.
8. Acrylic: Not soft, not absorbent, does not shrink in normal wash. The
staple is slightly crimpy which can make the final product, the fabric, bulky
or beefy, not easy to crease.

Yarn:
1. Spun yarn
2. Filament Yarn
Ring Spun yarn : Spun yarn is spun by spindles it is called ring spun yarn.
20/2 20 count 2 ply
20/3 20 count 3 ply
60 / 4 60 count 4 ply
Carded Yarn : Without combing produced the carded yarn . Such as: 3s, 40s , 60s
etc.
Combed yarn: Produced the yarn with combing process. Cost is high. Such as:
76s
Rotor yarn : Produced the lower count yarn. Such as: 7s to 20s .
Filament yarn: 70 Denier.
OE yarn ( open end yarn) : OE yarn is spun by means by air current and not by
spindles.
Polyester Cotton Blended: In the trade , we call this blend, TC. TC stands for
Tetron & Cotton. Tetoron is also Called Polyester.
TC Fabric usually means 65% Polyester, 35% cotton, but strictly speaking it
means 51% or more of polyester with balance in cotton.

Other Blended:
Polyester-Wool
Acrylic Wool
Polyester-Rayon
Silk cotton
Rayon-cotton
T-R-C (Polyester, rayon & cotton)

Popular Textile yarn Sizes:


Most Popular Sizes
Cotton
TC/CVC

Less Popular sizes


Cotton
TC/CVC
6s

7s
8s
8s
10s
10s
12s
13s
14s
14s
16s
16s
17s
20s
20s
21s
21s
24s
24s
30s
30s
32s
32s
33s
40s
42s

45s
60s
60s

Flow chart of Carded Yarn:


Blow Room .Lap
Carding .Carded Sliver
Pre comb Drawing Frame .Drawing sliver /drawn sliver
Post comb Drawing Frame .Drawing sliver /drawn sliver
Speed Frame / Simplex Roving
Ring Frame ..Yarn (ring bobbin)
Winding . Cone or other Package
Reeling.Hank
Bundling .Bundle
Baling ..Bale
Yarn in Hank Form ..Finished Hank bale

Flow chart of Carded Yarn:


Blow Room .Lap
Carding .Carded Sliver

Pre comb Drawing Frame .Drawing sliver /drawn sliver


Lap former .Mini Lap
Combing .Combed sliver
Post comb Drawing Frame .Drawing sliver /drawn sliver
Speed Frame / Simplex Roving
Ring Frame ..Yarn (ring bobbin)
Winding . Cone or other Package
Reeling.Hank
Bundling .Bundle
Baling ..Bale
Yarn in Hank Form ..Finished Hank bale

Price of Cotton & Cotton Mixed Yarn :


SL.
01
02
03
04
05
06
07
08
09
10
11
12

Yarn
100% Cotton (Carded)
100% Cotton ( Combed
with soft Quality)
100% Cotton (Carded)
100% Cotton ( Combed)
100% Cotton ( Combed)
100% Cotton ( Combed)
100% Cotton SLUB Yarn
50% Cotton 50% Acrylic
50% Cotton 50% Acrylic
55% Cotton 45% Acrylic
55% Cotton 45% Acrylic
60% Cotton 40% Acrylic

Count

Price $ /Lbs

2/20 NE
2/20 NE

2.10/ Lbs
2.40/ Lbs

2/30, 2/32 NE
2/30 NE
2/32 NE
2/40 NE
2/32 NE
2/20 NE
2/30 NE
2/20 NE
2/30 NE
2/16 s

2.45/ Lbs
2.65/ Lbs
2.60/ Lbs
3.60/ Lbs
3.60/ Lbs
2.75/ Lbs
3.00/ Lbs
2.90/ Lbs
3.25/ Lbs
3.00/ Lbs

13
14
15
16

(Roving yarn )
60% Cotton 40% Acrylic
(Roving yarn )
60% Cotton 40% Acrylic
80% Cotton 20% Wool
100% Cotton mlange

2/16 s

3.10/ Lbs

2/16 s
2/32 Nm
2/20 & 2/32 NE

2.90/ Lbs
Not Available
Not Available

Viscose Rayon:
SL.
Yarn
01 100% Viscose Rayon
02 70% Viscose Rayon 30%
Acrylic (Solid & mlange
)

Count
2/30 NM
2/30 NM

Price $ /Lbs
2.80 /Lbs
3.60 / Lbs

Nylon / Spandex / Lacra :


Yarn

Count

01 Nylon / Spandex / Lacra


02 100% Nylon / Polimaed
03 100% Nylon / Polimaed

70% / 20%
70 D/2 (Double)
70 D/1 (Single)

Price $ /Lbs
4.60 /Lbs
3.70 /Lbs
3.90 /Lbs

Price Quotation of Knit Yarn


From: BF Textiles Ltd.
Dhaka , Bangladesh
Sub : Price Quotation for Knit Yarn.
Dear Sir,
We would like to give very special offer for you, please give us the order so that
we can arrange as per your requirement. Please find below the price.

SL/no
01

Description of Yarn
24/1-26/1 Carded 100% cotton auto cone
Yarn Usterized and Electronically cleaned.

Price in US$
$3.55

02

28/1-30/1 Carded 100% cotton auto cone


Yarn Usterized and Electronically cleaned.

$3.60

03

32/1 Carded 100% cotton auto cone Yarn


Usterized and Electronically cleaned.

$3.70

04

34/1 Carded 100% cotton auto cone Yarn


Usterized and Electronically cleaned.

$3.80

05

36/1 Carded 100% cotton auto cone Yarn


Usterized and Electronically cleaned.

$3.90

06

40/1 Carded 100% cotton auto cone Yarn


Usterized and Electronically cleaned.

$4.10

Offer Validity: This offer is valid up to: 01.01.2011


We hope, your honor would find our offer suitable and favor us with your valued
order. Your kind Cooperation will be highly appreciated
Thanking you.
Senior Executive
Business Development
BF Textile Ltd.
Cell: 01725-425906
Email: ..

Measurement of Yarn Count:


We have followed a different way to find out the count of the yarn. At first we
unravel a considerable no yarn form the fabric. Then we measured the total length
of the yarn and measured the weight of that no of yarn. From these weights, we
find out the Count of the yarn.
The equation we followed is as follow:

Count = (N x L x 453.6 ) / ( Wt. x 36 x 840)


Where,
N = number of yarn in bundle
L = length of yarn
Wt. = weight of yarn.

Another formula is the following :

GSM = (Ks x Tex ) / Stitch length (mm )


Where,
Ks is a constant. Its value is different for different fabric structure and fabric type.
Ks is calculated and estimated as below:

Ks = ( GSM x Stitch length) / Tex


Fabric Type
Single Jersey
Single lacoste
Double Lacoste
Polo pique
Plain Interlock
1 x 1 Rib
1 x 1 Rib
2 x 1 Rib
Flat back Rib
3 Thread fleece

Color

Value of Ks

Average
Average
Average
Average
Average
Average
Average
Average
-

19.55
22.4
22.75
25
39.3
24.5
26.5
28.3
81
40.92

Yarn count numbering system :


Yarn Count conversion Unit
fixed weight

Tex

Symbols
Ne, NeC,
NeB
TEX, T

Metric Count

Nm

fixed weight

Metric Ticket

Tkt

fixed weight

Denier

Td, d

fixed length

Linen Count

NeL

fixed weight

Wool Count

NeW

fixed weight

Cotton Count

Type

fixed length

Constant

Unit
840
1 pound
yards
1,000 meter 1 gram
1,000
1,000 gram
meter
333
1,000 gram
meter
9,000 meter 1 gram
300
1 pound
yards
256
1 pound
yards

Silk Machine
Twist

fixed weight,
A=900 yards,
B=800 yards,
F=300 yards, etc.

1 ounce

100
yards

Some Common Yarn Count.


List of some most used yarn count
The following counts of yarn that are widely used for knitting process are given:
YARN COUNT:
a) Cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1, 40/1 Ne.
b) Terylene cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1 Ne.
c) CVC: 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1 Ne.
d) Melange: 20/1, 22/1, 26/1, 30/1 Ne.
e) Spandex: 20D, 40D, 70D.
f) Polyester: 75D, 150D.
g) Sewing thread: 50/2, 40/2, 75D, 150D etc.

Basic knowledge of knit Fabric


1. Plain /Single/Jersey knit: People call it jersey knit . a weft knit process
producing a plain , flat surfaced knitted fabric formed with a distinct face
and back. Smooth side are called Face. Produced T-shirt, under-wear,
sports wear etc by Single jersey fabric.
2. Interlock Fabric: A weft knit process producing a compound fabric. It is
less elasticity fabric. Actually it is Double faced knitted fabric which face &

Back side looks same and smooth. Produced Polo-Shirt , T-shirt , underwear by Interlock fabric.
3. Rib Fabric: A weft knit process producing a double faced fabric. Distinct
effect looks at lengthwise and more elasticity in fabric width. Examples:
1x1 rib, 2x 1 rib, 2x 2 rib , 3x1 rib , 3 x 3 rib , 5 x 2 rib etc. Produced Tshirt, Polo-shirt by Rib fabric.
4. Fleece Fabric: One side looks like Jersey , the other side heavely brushed.
5. Flat knit: Flat knit is a weft knit fabric but do not produced tube fabric as
circular knitting. Produced the knit collar , Cuff etc.
6. Yarn Dyed fabric: At first , dyeing the yarn then produced the fabric by
color yarn that is called yarn dyed fabric.
7. Piece dyed fabric: when produced the fabric by Natural color yarn that is
called Raw Fabric. For produced the Piece dyed fabric at first bleaching
the raw fabric then dyeing .so that is called Piece dyed or Solid dyed
fabric.
8. Feeder Stripe: More color yarns are used in the Feeder stripe but Repeat
size will be 2 inch.
9. Engineering stripe: More color yarns are used in the Feeder stripe but
Repeat size are not fixed.

TC Fabric / PC Fabric Analysis:


Polyester
65%

Cotton
35 %

Weft 100% Cotton =

100%

0%

Total

165%

35%

Warp (TC) =

165% divided by 2 = 82.5% Polyester


35 divided by 2 = 17.5% cotton
Therefore, The fabric is TC 82.5% polyester , 17.5% cotton.
However , if you change the weft from 100% polyester to 100% cotton, then
this fabric is CVC. See following calculation:

Warp (TC) =

Polyester
65%

Weft 100% Cotton =

0%

Total

65%

Cotton
35 %
100%
135%

65% divided by 2 = 32.5% Polyester


135 divided by 2 = 67.5% cotton
Therefore, The fabric is CVC 32.5% polyester , 67.5% cotton.

Fabric , GSM, & Yarn Count


Fabric Name

Weight /GSM

Single Jersey
Single Jersey
Single Jersey
Single Jersey
Single Jersey
Single Jersey

200-230
180-190
165-175
150/155-165
135-145
125-135

Fabric Name
Pique
Pique
Pique
Pique
Pique

Weight / GSM
235-240
220-225
190-210
180-190
160-170

Fabric Name
Interlock Fabric
Interlock Fabric
Interlock Fabric
Interlock Fabric
Interlock Fabric

Weight / GSM
260-270
240-250
220-230
200-210
190-200

Fabric Name
Rib Fabric

Weight / GSM
280-300

Yarn Count
20s
24s
26s
28s
30s
32s
Yarn Count
24s
26s
28s
30s
32s

Yarn Count
30s
32s
34s
36s
40s
Yarn Count
20s

Rib Fabric
Rib Fabric
Rib Fabric
Rib Fabric
Rib Fabric
Fabric Name
Fleece Fabric
Fleece Fabric
Fleece Fabric
Fleece Fabric

240-260
220-230
200-210/215
180-200
160-180

24s
26s
28s
30s
32s

Weight / GSM
310
280
260
240

Yarn Count
26/20s
30/16s
30/24s
30/26s

Fabric knitting cost


Sl.
Fabric Type
No.
1

Single Jersey (M/C Dia 19-38)

Single Jersey (M/C Dia 40-48)

Single Jersey

Single Jersey

Single Jersey

6
7

Single Jersey Slub Yarn


Single Jersey Slub Yarn
S/J D/Yarn F/ Stripe(M/C Dia
18-40)
S/J D/Yarn F/ Stripe(M/C Dia
42-48)
S/J D/Yarn F/ Stripe(M/C Dia
18-40)
S/J D/Yarn F/ Stripe(M/C Dia
42-48)

8
9
10
11

Machine Yarn
Gauge Count
20/s24
30/s
20/s24
30/s
26/s28
30/s
34/s24
40/s
16/s20
18/s
24
20

Knitting charge
Per Kg in Taka
10
11
13
14-16
16-25
15-20
18-20

24

20-30

24

28-30

20

25-30

20

35-40

12

Heavy Jersey (2 ply)

20

13

Half Feeder Lycra S/Jersey

24

40/226/2
30/s40/s

15-18
22-24

14
15

H.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe


(M/C Dia 18-40)
H.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe
(M/C Dia 42-48)

24

30-35

24

40-45

16

Full Feeder Lycra S/Jersey

24/28

17

Full Feeder Lycra S/Jersey

24/28

18
19

F.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe


(M/C Dia 18-40)
F.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe
(M/C Dia 42-48)

30/s34/s
36/s40/s

28
30

24

38-40

24

48-50

20

P.K / Lacost

24

21

P.K / Lacost

20

22

P.K / Lacost

28

23
24
25
26

P.K F/Stripe (M/C Dia 18-40)


P.K F/Stripe (M/C Dia 18-40)
P.K F/Stripe (M/C Dia 42-48)
P.K F/Stripe (M/C Dia 42-48)

24
20
24
20

27

1X1 Normal RIB

18

28

1X1 Normal RIB

18

29

Yarn Dyed (1X1) Stripe Rib

18

30

Lycra RIB (Half Feeder)

18

31

Lycra RIB (Full Feeder)

18

32

(2X1) RIB

18

33

(2X2) RIB

18

34

(2X1) H. Feeder Lycra Rib

18

35

(2X1) H. Feeder Lycra Rib

18

36

Plain Interlock

22/24

30/s24/s
30/s20/s
34/s26/s

15
18
20
25-30
30-35
30-40
45-50

30/s20/s
32/s36/s
30/s20/s
30/s26/s
30/s40/s
30/s20/s
30/s20/s
30/s24/s
30/s24/s
UP TO

15
18
25-30
25-30
35-40
25-28
28-30
35
45
18

37

Plain Interlock

22/24

38

Plain Interlock

28

39
40

Interlock Feeder Stripe


Interlock H.F Ly. Attachement

24
24

41

Interlock D / Needle

24

42

Mash/Flat Back Rib


Three Thread Fleece (French
Terry)
Cross Terry
Three Thread Lycra Fleece (
French Terry)
Two Thread Fleece
Two Thread Lycra Terry
Engineering Stripe (4 Color) S/J
Engineering Stripe (6 Color) S/J
Engineering Stripe 2Ply
Engineering Stripe 2Ply
Engineering Stripe (4 Color)
P.K/Lacost
Engineering Stripe (6 Color)
P.K/Lacost
Eng. Stripe (4&6 Color) (H/
Feeder Lycra S/J.P.K)
Eng. Stripe (4&6 Color) (F/
Feeder Lycra S/J.P.K)
Eng. Stripe Flat Back Rib
Eng. Stripe Terry
Engineering Stripe (6 Color)
RIB
Engineering Stripe (6 Color)
Interlock
Engineering Stripe (6 Color)
Lycra RIB / Interlock
Engineering Stripe 2X1 F.
Feeder Lycra Rib
Engineering Stripe 2X1 H.
Feeder Lycra Rib

43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62

32/s
34/s40/s
40/s50/s

20
28-36
35-40
35-40

30/s40/s

25-30
60-80
18
20-22
35-40

24
24
20
16

20-22
35-40
100-110
120-130
130-150
160-170

24

120-125

24

130-140

24

220-230

24

240-250

24/20

300
180-220
170-180
180-190
250-300
350-400
350

63

Pointal Rib (Normal)

70-100

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