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PAT T ERN DRAFT I NG BY HEI GHT

Sept ember
Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: creativity, fashion design,
15, 2007
pants, patterndrafting |
[8] C omments

A rc h i v e d E n t ry
Post Date :
September 15, 2007 at 5:04 am
Category :
apparel design
Tags: creativity, fashion design,
pants, patterndrafting
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This pattern design m ethod can be used to determ ine drafting m easurem ents from a
giv en figure height com bined with girth m easurem ents for the chest, waist and hips.
Knowing the persons height allows for form ulations of v arious lengths based on the
Golden Mean and com bined with established size param eters, a trouser or torso pattern
can be drafted for an av erage hum an body .
H = full length of body ; also the span of laterally outstretched arm s, m easured from
finger-tip to finger-tip, is equal to the height of the body .
1/2 H = upper part of body (torso) or lower part of body (legs)
1/4 H = length of leg from ankle to knee and length from chin to nav el
1/6 H = length of foot and length of forearm (m easured from elbow to wrist)
1/8 H = length of head from crown to bottom of chin
1/10 H = height of face; also length of hand
Draft ing By Height : Trousers (based on 8 heads per figure)

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The theory based upon the Golden Mean can be used to determ ine drafting
m easurem ents from a giv en figure height of an av erage or off-proportioned body . You
need the following m easurem ents to draft a trouser pattern: height, waist and hips. The
scale is one head equals 1/8 of the total height.
Exam ple:
for a person who is 5 feet 8 inches tall, one head length is 8
5 8 = 6 8 6 8/8 = 8.5
Rise is 1 head plus 1 ease plus width of the waistband
eg. rise = 1 /8 height + ease + waistband width
Inseam is 4 heads m inus Y (am ount taken off for width of trouser cuffs)
eg. inseam = 1 /2 height Y
Outseam is inseam plus rise, or
5 heads plus ease m inus Y plus waistband width
eg. outseam = 5/8 height + ease Y + waistband width
Exam ple:
Giv en a height of 5 feet, 8 inches, trouser cuff width of 1 8 and a waistband 1 -1 /2 wide,
then:
rise = 6 8/8 + 1 + 1 .5 = 1 1
inseam = 6 8/8 2 .5 = 3 1 .5
outseam = 5/8 x 6 8 + 1 2 .5 + 1 .5 = 4 2 .5

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Table for Leg Reduct ion (Y am ount)

for bot t om widt h

t ake off Y amount *

24

23

1 .2 5

22

1 .5

21

1 .7 5

2 0

1 9

2 .2 5

1 8

2 .5

* for shaped trouser cuffs, use less Y am ount (0.5 to 0.7 5)

Trouser draft :
square both way s at 0.
0-1 = body rise + 3 /8 [1 cm ]; square
across
0-2 = waist to hip; square across.
(approx. 8-9 [2 0-2 3 cm ]).
0-3 = outseam ; square across
1-4 = m idway between 1 -3 m inus 2 [5
cm ]; square across.
1-5 = 1 /1 2 hip m m t. + 5/8 [1 8 m m ];
square up to locate points 6 and 7 .
6-8 = hip m m t. + 3 /8 [1 0 m m ]
5-9 = 1 /1 6 hip m m t. + 3 /8 [1 0m m ]

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7 -10 = 3 /8 [1 0m m ] squared across

and 3 /8 [1 0 m m ] squared down
Join 1 0-6 with straight line and join 6 9 with a curv e line as shown.
This is the centerfront crutch seam .
Square up and down from point 8.
10-11 = waist m m t. + 3 /8 [1 0m m ]
(note: point 1 1 will sit on line 7 .)

12 is located at intersection of 3 and 8.

13 is located at intersection of 4 and 8.
Square down from 5 to locate 1 4 and 1 5
5-16 = 1 /2 m m t of line 5-9
6-17 = m m t of line 5-9
7 -18 = 3 /8 [1 0m m ]; join 1 7 -1 8 and extend as a tangent line
19-20 = waist m m t. + 3 /8 [1 0 m m ], taken at a 9 0 degree angle from tangent line
so that line 1 9 -2 0 touches the line 7 -1 1 . (Note: point 1 9 will be located on the right
angle and the constructed line m ay not touch at point 1 1 as shown.)
9-21 = m m t. of 5-9
Join 1 7 -2 1 with curv ed line as shown
3-22 = 1 /4 trouser cuff width m inus 1 /4 [6 m m ]

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2 3 is located on kneeline.
3-24 = trouser cuff width m inus 1 /4 [6 m m ]
4-25 = 4 -2 3
Join 2 4 -2 5 with a straight line and 2 5-9 with a curv ed line as shown.
24-26 = 3 /4 [2 0 m m ]
25-27 = 3 /4 [2 0m m ]
Join 2 6 -2 7 with a straight line and 2 7 -2 1 with a parallel curv ed line as shown.
5-28 = hip m m t. + 1 /4 [6 m m ]
Join 2 2 -2 3 -2 8-8 and gently curv e into 2 0 to draw outseam leg seam .
This is an easy fit ty pe trouser pattern. Trace off front and back patterns. If y ou desire
extra ease (seat angle) in crutch of trousers back portion, cut along back hipline and
open a wedge about 1 -1 /2 [4 0 m m ] wide at CB to nil at side seam . Redraw centerback
seam .
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8 RE SP O NSE S TO P ATTE RN DRAFTING BY HE IGHT

1.

Lopamudra Ghosh Says:

March 28, 2008 at 10:39 am

It was interesting and easy to understand. However, I have not tried it

practically. Let us hope for the best.

2.

Deirdre Says:
March 30, 2008 at 7:11 am

Thanks for posting this fyi. Ive wanted to learn how to do this for a while.
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So now (of course) i have some points that could use clarification.
1) Where exactly do you place #10? I figured Id fake it and that seemed to
work until I connected 17-19 which
2) My 17-19 line fell on the inside of point 10.
3) My 19-20 line was several inches shorter than my/your calculations would
suggest. Of course there may be a number of reasons for this.
I think my ultimate question is if the posted diagram is what my pattern
should look like.
I had a momentary confusion when i read bottom width. I thought for a
while you might be talking about the seat. So instead of saying bottom
width or trouser bottom I suggest cuff circumference or trouser
cuff.
Thanks again. I think overall its quite easy to read. Yey!

3.

wkdesigner Says:
March 30, 2008 at 2:37 pm

Thanks Deirdre for the suggestions. Always good to have someone actually
proofread the instructions. Sometimes my words get lost in translation.
LOL!
As for the diagram, it is not to scale so your draft may not look exactly as
shown but trust your measurements. It is only a map to follow the point
location.

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4.

ISLAND FLOUNCER Weekend designer Says:

March 18, 2009 at 1:45 am

[] This pattern is drafted by height. []

5.

Damen-Oberbekleidung - Linkliste (clothes) | Kostenlose-Schnittmuster.de Says:

May 7, 2009 at 8:49 am

[] Hose []

6.

FATHER & SON TIES Weekend designer Says:

May 28, 2009 at 6:42 pm

[] This tie is drafted by height. []

7.

bc Says:
August 14, 2010 at 1:41 pm

wat hv been lookin 4

8.

bc Says:
August 14, 2010 at 1:46 pm

i love dis
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Comments are closed.

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