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Abstract
Barberry bark (Berberis aristata DC.) dye was used for dyeing of degummed pure silk
yarn using four selected mordants: alum, chrome, copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate in different
ratio i.e. 1:1, 1:3 and 3:1. For dyeing optimized condition used were: wave length-410 nm, dye
extraction time-60 min, medium of extraction-aqueous, dye material concentration- 8%, dyeing
time-45 min and pH of dyeing solution-4.0. Mordant concentration and mordanting techniques
were also optimized. Analysis of fastness properties revealed that alum + chrome, alum + ferrous
sulphate and chrome + ferrous sulphate in 1:3 ratio and alum + copper sulphate and chrome +
copper sulphate in 3:1 ratio showed the best fastness properties with post mordanting technique.
The dyed samples possess very good to excellent fastness. Improvement in brightness was observed
on exposing the samples to sunlight, washing and perspiration fastness tests. Large range of shades
was obtained. The mordant which was in high proportion dominated the shade.
Keywords: Barberry bark, Berberis aristata, Natural dye, Mordant, Silk yarn.
Introduction
Synthetic dyes are produced at
high temperature and pressure from
chemicals isolated from petroleum
derivatives. During the manufacturing
process of dyes many carcinogenic
chemicals are used which leads to
formation of toxic by-products. These byproducts are discharged in the rivers,
ponds or left in open. Hence, cause severe,
water and atmospheric pollution1. This
has threatened the ecological balance and
called attention of the environmentalists
to develop eco-friendly technologies to
produce dyes from natural resources.
Natural dyes have better biodegradability
and generally higher compatibility with
the environment. They are non-toxic, non40
Research Paper
Results and Discussion
Optimization of mordanting
technique
The data regarding optimization
of mordanting method of silk dyeing
with barberry bark (Table 1) reflected that
alum when used with chrome and copper
sulphate in the ratio of 1:1, ferrous
sulphate in ratio of 3:1 gave maximum
dye absorption with simultaneous
mordanting method. Chrome + copper
sulphate (3:1), chrome + ferrous
sulphate (3:1) and copper sulphate +
ferrous sulphate (1:1) combination
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Alum + Chrome
Mordant
ratio
Pre
Simul
Post
1: 1
32.40
48.18
29.54
1: 3
24.53
37.62
29.54
3: 1
32.40
47.85
29.54
1: 1
35.18
41.25
29.54
1: 3
31.10
31.35
29.54
3: 1
31.94
40.92
29.54
1: 1
23.14
37.29
29.54
1: 3
24.53
37.29
29.54
3: 1
25.46
41.25
29.54
1: 1
23.14
43.56
29.54
1: 3
18.05
26.07
29.54
3: 1
27.31
47.19
29.54
1: 1
23.61
35.64
29.54
1: 3
12.50
36.63
29.54
3: 1
24.53
38.61
29.54
1: 1
17.59
34.98
29.54
1: 3
20.37
31.68
29.54
3: 1
20.37
30.69
29.54
Research Paper
5
4.21
4
Fastness Grades
3.6
3.89
3.85
3.67
3.82
3.57
3.35
3
0
1:
1P
re
1:
3P
re
3:
1P
re
1:
1S
im
ul
1:
3S
im
ul
3:
1S
im
ul
1:
1P
os
t
1:
3P
os
t
3:
1P
os
Fastness Grades
3.82
3.78
3.5
3.57
3.53
3.5
3.78
3.53
3.53
0
1:
1P
re
1:
3P
re
3:
1P
re
1
1:
Si
ul
3
1:
Si
ul
1
3:
Si
ul
1:
1P
os
t
1:
3P
os
t
3:
1P
os
4
3.1
3.17
3.1
3.35
3.23
3.1
3.39
3.32
3.1
0
1:
1P
re
1:
3P
re
3:
1P
re
1
1:
Si
ul
3
1:
Si
ul
1
3:
Si
ul
1:
1P
os
t
1:
3P
os
t
3:
1P
os
Barberry bark
42
Research Paper
5
Fastness Grades
4
3.53
3.5
3.57
3.5
3.46
3.78
3.53
3.77
3.64
0
1:
1P
re
1:
3P
re
3:
1P
re
1:
1S
im
ul
1:
3S
im
ul
3:
1S
im
ul
1:
1P
os
t
1:
3P
os
t
3:
1P
os
Fastness Grades
4
3.53
3.5
3.77
3.71
3.71
3.53
3.5
3.5
3.32
3
0
1:
1P
re
1:
3P
re
3:
1P
re
1
1:
Si
ul
3
1:
Si
ul
1
3:
Si
ul
1:
1P
os
t
1:
3P
os
t
3:
1P
os
Fastness Grades
4
3.25
3.42
3.25
3.32
3.28
3.57
3.53
3.28
3.53
Conclusion
0
1:
e
Pr
1:
e
Pr
3:
e
Pr
1:
1S
im
ul
1:
3S
im
ul
3:
1S
im
ul
1:
1P
t
os
1:
3P
t
os
3:
1P
st
Research Paper
brighter and deeper in comparison with
single mordant. Large range of shades was
obtained and the mordant which was in
high proportion dominated the shade. On
the basis of this study it can be concluded
that: (i) silk must be dyed using
simultaneous mordanting method as it
gave maximum dye absorption; (ii) alum
improved the dye absorption so it should
be used in combination with other
mordants; (iii) to obtain variation in
shades mordants should be used in
different combinations; and (iv) the ratio
of the mordant should be selected as per
44
5.
6.
References
1.
2.
3.