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Training Report
CAWNPORE
WOOLLEN MILLS
(BRITISH INDIA CORPORATION LIMITED)




By: Shivam Verma
3
rd
year undergraduate
IIT DELHI

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT--




I am thankful to Mr M.K. Verma (General Manager), Mr Raja Mitra
Manager (P & A) for giving me an opportunity to take up these
projects which shall be beneficial to myself as well as to the
organization and also for providing all the help and guidance
whenever required.

I am highly thankful to my project guide Mr P.K. Singh Sir for his
constant support and guidance. He has been source of motivation and
encouragement at time of difficulties, providing me all the necessary
help towards successful completion of this project.


I am highly grateful to Mr Arun choudhary, Mr N.B. Singh, for
positively examine my work and encouraging me to do better.

I am also thankful to Mr U.C. Pandey and Mr S.S. Awasthi Sir for
his constant encouragement and support till the end.


The last but not the least I am also thankful to all the staff members
with whom I interacted and learnt a lot in past two months.











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CERTI FICATE


This is to certify that SHIVAM VERMA 3rd year Textile Technology, IIT
Delhi, Entry number 2011TT10965, has completed the projects on
In-depth analysis of the present condition of Cawnpore Woollen
Mills successfully under the guidance of Mr P.K. Singh Sir which will
remain as a bona fide statement.










Raja Mitra
Manager (P & A)
CAWNPORE WOOLLEN MILLS


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PROJECT DETAILS



This projects is an attempt to analyse one of the greatest pioneers in woollen
industry that this country has ever witnessed from the inside as well as
outside, meaning the inside analysis involves:
o Analysing the efficiency of machinery in the combing
department
o Analysing machine efficiency and utilization of the worsted
spinning department
o Analysing the financial condition of the company by performing
S.W.O.T. Analysis and ratio analysis
And the outside analysis involves:
o What are the major events that has happened to this company
o What is the view of the public in the present time by doing a
survey
o What are the steps taken by the government for the benefit of
this company







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CONTENTS



1. Introduction about the company-
2. Origin and growth-
3. Products of lal imli-
4. PROCESS CHART-
5. Introduction to the departments-
o French combing department
o Finishing department
o Woollen carding and spinning department
o Worsted spinning department
o Quality control department
o Sulzer weaving department
o Dye house
o Mixing house
6. COMBING DEPARTMENT-
7. WORSTED SPINNING DEPARTMENT-
8. WEAVING DEPARTMENT-
9. Organisational structure of the company-
10. S.W.O.T. Analysis-
11. Statement of financial position-
12. Ratio analysis-
13. Questionnaire based survey to determine consumer perception of lal-
imli products-
14. Mundhra scam-
15. Reasons for the sickness of the mill-
16. Steps taken by the government-
17. What could have been?
18. References

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Introduction about the company-

Lal Imli is an acclaimed industry in the area of woollen it has a wide coverage over products.
It manufactures best quality worsted as well as pure woollens and their blends. It products
are suitings lohis blanket blazers shawls and many more with attractive design and varieties.

Origin and growth-

In 1876, five residents of Kanpur namely, Mr George Allen, Mr W.E. Cooper Bevan Petman,
Dr Condon and Mr Gavin S. Jones erected a small mill for the manufacture, chiefly of army
blankets. The original plant appears to have consisted of cards and mules, followed by
handlooms in the weaving and power driven finishing plant. This company which was known
as The Woolen Mills Cawnpore continued until 1882, after which it was converted into a
public company with limited liability under the new Indian companies Act. The name of the
new company was THE CAWNPORE WOOLEN MILLS AND ARMY CLOTES
MANUFACTURING COMPANY LIMITED. a name which it continued till 1914, when
opportunity of a change in the capital structures of the company was taken to alter the
name to the Cawnpore Woollen Mills Co. Ltd.

During the years of the Limited companys existence the private company of Messrs,
Cooper, Allen & Co., under the guidance of Mr. William Cooper and Mr. George Allen acted
as managing Agents, but they resigned this position at the end of 1888 and thereafter the
company managed its own affairs under a board of Directors. The turning point in the
companys fortunes was the appointment, as Manager in 1884, of Mr. A. Mac Robert who
afterwards became Sir Alexander Mac Robert, Bart, K.B.E, LL. D. who continued to direct the
affairs of the company until his death in 1922.

Throughout his management of the Cawnpore woolen mills there was a period of continued
expansion. To the original woolen plant was added a worsted plant in the late 1880s also a
felt making plant and to absorb the excess worsted yarns which the plant was capable of
producing a Hosiery plant, and power Looms with a fully equipped finishing plant to follow
were gradually installed. The lines of development were thus laid down at a very early date
and expansion continued along these lines until the end of the First World War.

Thereafter, a gradual change in plant became necessary to meet the increased demand for
finer quality goods which had sprung up all over India and while limitations of space
precluded any large extension of building. It was possible to obtain greater efficiency by
regrouping of the plant and buildings which were then available.

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The company suffered a grave setback in 1310 when a serious fire broke out which
smouldered for several months. The damage was largely confined to the godowns
containing the companys manufactured goods and the bulk of its stock of raw materials but
fortunately the manufacturing plant was with the excerptor of some handlooms largely
untouched. The loss therefore although severe did not greatly affect the working of the
Mills, which was soon in a position again to enter the market.

During 1910 and 1911 a large rebuilding programmed had been taken in hand and this was
completed in 1912, and the buildings then erected contain the bulk of the Manufacturing
plant. In the tears 1914 -18, as during the whole of the present war, the entire productive
capacity of the Mills was placed at the disposal of Government., and was utilized under
orders issued by the government of India.

In the year 1920. The British India Corporation was established and registered as a limited
company, managed by a board of Directors. The corporation was formed with the specific
object of combining and amalgamating was under one board of directors, the following
business with effect from fist of January 1920).

Cawnpore Woolen Mills Company Lal Imli, Kanpur (Est. in 1876)
Cooper Alien and Company Limited Kanpur (Estd. in 1881)
North west ternary Company Limited Kanpur (Estd. in 1881)
New Egerton tannery Co. Ltd Dhariwal Punjab (Estd. in 1882)
Cawnpore cotton mills Co. Ltd, KAKOMI, Kanpur (Estd. in 1883)
Empire Engineering Co. Ltd Kanpur (Estd. in 1884)

The fortunes of the company, and along with it, its unit Lal-Imli continued to score new
heights under the British Regime. It was during the 2nd world war that mills were worked to
full capacity so as to fulfill the larger demand of woolen cloth for the British Armed forces
and this was probably the period when Lal-Imli achieved peak performance in terms of
production and capacity utilization, but by the time the war was over, the writing on the
wall was clear that sooner or later the British would have to leave India.

The then management thus lost interest in the progress and development of the woollen
units and all activities of expansion and updating of plant and machinery received a setback.
The Indian private management which took over from the Britishers also did not take any
effective measures towards restoring the mills to their normal health, the fortunes of the
units thus continued to waver

In 1956 when Sir Haridas Mundra was the Chairman of the company a scam involving the
issue of duplicate share certificates took place which snow- balled into a major national
issue. The scam took such proportions that it had effects on the government exchequer and
the then finance minister Sri T.T. Krishnamachari had to resign, over the issue. As a result of
the Mundra scam, the Board of directors of BIC was dissolved and a fresh Board of directors
was constituted by the high court of Allahabad. Sri H.S Chaturvedi Retd. Judge was
appointed as Chairman of BIC, and the Vice Chancellor of Banaras Hindu University became
the Vice Chairman.

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In 1961-62 the British India Corporation acquired M/a. Begg Sutherland and Co. by
purchasing shares of the company and thus took over the entire control and management
of the corporation. This corporation owned six companies viz.

1. The Elgin Mills Company, Limited, Kanpur.
2. Cownpore Textile Limited, Kanpur
3. Saran Engineering Company, Limited,
4. Brush ware Limited, Kanpur
5. Kanpur Sugar Works, Kanpur.
6. Chamapran Sugar Works.

During the 1970 the downward slide of the company continued and the mills started inching
towards sickness, by the year 1980 the mills were almost on the verge of closure. To avoid
such a disastrous end to the pioneers of the woollen industry, BIC was taken over by the
Govt. of India on 11th June 1981 by a special act of the parliament The British India
Corporation Ltd. (Acquisition of shares) Act, 1981.The private shares of the company was
thus acquired by the Govt. of India, the Govt. took corrective measures in the form of partial
doses of modernization to pull BIC out of doldrums, but the same proved ineffective.

The company continued to incur losses especially because the modalities of nationalization
did not address the issue of old liabilities which continued to exist. Even the loans taken by
the private management prior to nationalization continued to get compounded resulting in
massive accrual of liabilities. The rate at which such liabilities continued to grow was
definitely much higher than the companys activities.

As the company continued to incur losses, it was referred to the Board for industrial and
financial reconstruction (BIFR) on 31st March, 1991 under the provisions of S.I.C.A the BIFR
declared the company sick.

Products of lal imli-
Various products manufactured in Lal Imli are:

Lohis
Shawls
Blankets
Suitings
Trouserings
Blazer Cloth
Tweed
Uniform Cloth

A Brief description of these are enumerated as follows:-
LOHIS:
Toosh (White)
Lohi No. 60 (Grey)
SHAWL:
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Pashmina-pure wool, plain and of solid colour
BLANKETS:
Premier-reversible
Meghdoot-blend of wool and viscose
SUITINGS:
Pure wool and poly wool (PW)
Tweeds (PWV)
TROUSERINGS:
MW-221 (pure wool, worsted hosiery)
TS-3349 (blended)
UNIFORM CLOTH:
Angola Shirting (AD 3270)
Surge battle race coats
Bharathea

PROCESS CHART
1) Merino greasy wool
2) Scouring
3) Drying
4) Carding
5) First
6) combing(Purchased) [purchase top from other factories like bhilwara, ashik ali wool
mill Ahmedabad etc. nowadays]
7) Dye ring
8) Drying
9) Shade Matching
10) Gilling
11) Combing
12) gilling
13) Roving
14) Ring frame
15) Autoconer
16) Parallel Winding
17) Twisting
18) Ready Yarn
19) Yarn Stores
20) Weaving
21) Fabric(Grey)
22) Roll
23) Godown
24) Scouring
25) Vanishing
26) Parching
27) Ware House
28) Packing
29) Delivery (to the parties, merchant, defense. Railway, police.)

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Introduction to the departments

French combing department-
French combing is an example of linear combing. The process of combing is
accompanied by gilling- a process of evening out carded or combed top making it
suitable for spinning
French combed wool is the wool having a staple length intermediate between that of
clothing and combing wool.
If the required fabric Is top dyed then the 1
st
combed top is send to dyeing
department, shade matching, dyed polyester/wool top is dried. The dyed wool tops
(polyester/viscose) are kept in the lots if required blend and shade.
Reconbing- polyester/wool/viscose top received from shade matching is subjected to
recombing process which comprises of-
A) Gilling the main objective of gilling is mixing / homogenisation and parallelisation
and attenuation of the sliver.
Strong gill box
Old gill box
NSC gill box
Textima gill box
NSC gill box
B) Combing- the material is again passed on combers to remove short fibres generated
during dyeing. Antistatic agent is also added about 0.6to 0.7%.
C) Gilling- combed sliver is once again subjected to gilling procedure to finally get the
recombed top of required weight/metre
NSC gill box
Textima gill box
NSC gill box

Finishing department-
In milling process there is a slight shrinkage both warp way as well as weft way. In this
process the width of the cloth has to be controlled as per the requirements.
After the process of milling a light scouring is again given to the piece at pH of 5.5 to 6.5 and
piece dried in the tenter machine. After drying woollen pieces example- blankets are raised
before sending them on to the finishing department, worsted 100%wool piece are sent
directly to the dry finishing department
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Every wool piece where percentage of terylene is 30% or over are heat set then singed using
petrol flame of approximate 2 to3.5 cm length fibre with the piece moving at the speed at
60 meter per minute approximate both the size of the cloth are singed after singing the light
wash is given after which it is fried and autotentered where sometime a chemical finish may
also be applied after which the piece is send forward to the dry finishing department
In the dry finishing department the cloth passes through various stages of process
depending in the type of cloth weather woollen or worsted or 100% wool or blended with
other synthetic fibres
The process generally used in this departments
1) Picking
2) Brushing
3) Cropping
4) Blowing
5) Rotary press
6) Kier decasting finish
7) Kier decasting finish
8) Hydraulic press
9) Perching
10) Measuring
After going through the required process the pieces are finally sent to the warehouse
ready to be packed in the packing department and then despatched to the merchants
and other parties
Machines
Milling- 2machines
Scouring- 3 machines
Raising- 2 machines (automatic and semi-automatic)
Automatic- takado iron work Ltd. wakayama 1963
Semi-automatic- tomlinsons patent N0433409 tomlinsons (RD chadale) Ltd. England
Tenter- 2 machines
1) Automatic
2) E Gordon whitely patente & maker marley leeds England
Woollen carding and spinning department-
Wool is a type of material fibre also called protein fibre.
Australia is the worlds largest producer of the imported fine wool followed by
Africa.
Australia produces good quality, but Russia also produces wool in great quality but
the best wool is of Australian sheep called merino wool. This wool is very soft.
Mainly there are 3 types of wool.
i. Sheared wool- it is obtained generally twice a year
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ii. Pulled wool- it is obtained by pulling the fibres from the slam of dead sheep
iii. Tanned wool- it is obtained from skin, is subject to processing which causes the fibre
to resist dyeing. The tanned wool is therefore inferior to even pulled wool.
In a woollen system of spinning a combination of short and long fibres is run together on
blended machine carding and ring frames to spin the yarn of required count.
Some important products manufactured on woollen system
Blazer BC 95
Premier blanket
Meghdoot
Lama
Sathi
Cg379
Barrack
Process chart for BC 95 blazer for 64s clothing
For 64s clothing
Direct blending- oiled blending 6% unipro(wool batching oil) in the ratio of 1:6 with
water
Opening of wool fibres
Carding-separation and parallelisation of fibres, removal of external impurities in
wool fibres, then required TPI and count is given to the carded sliver to go to the ring
frame
Ring framefinal yarn is produced here
Winding is done to form packasges
Hard waste blending is done that is waste from different sources is collected and subjected
to garneting
Hard waste- waste generated from spun yarn and onwards.
Soft waste- worsted and woollen waste generated during combing, carding is subjected to
willow machine for rag tearing
Garneting- a technique for opening up hard and soft waste textile products with aa view to
recycling them
The following blend of different waste is subjected to blending
30%willowed card waste
30% worsted hard waste
10% woollen hard waste
20% woollen & worsted rag
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10% nylon
In woollen system department there are 3 opening machines, 6 carding machines and 16
ring frames for producing woollen yarns.

Worsted spinning department-
In a worsted system a fine fibre of required count is manufactured using combed yarn, at
present important sorts produced on this system are lohi No.60, gold mine, pure wool
suiting, pure wool worsted (MW221) suiting, viscose wool uniform cloth, serge battle
dress(CG 233) and many others. The following process sequence is followed for
manufacturing a worsted fabric.
Greasy wool-> scouring-> drying-> carding-> 1
st
combing-> dyeing-> Drying-> shade
matching-> gilling-> combing-> gilling-> roving frame-> ring frame-> yarn package.
Worsted spinning-
Recombed top is subjected to following procedures->
Drawing/gilling- at this stage fibre uniformly is further improved and further parallelisation
of fibres is achieved for this the material is passed through a set of gill boxes/drawing
machines
Gill box No. 1- antistatic spray is used, speed is around 100-120 m/min
Gill box No.2- autoleveler is installed to give more uniform feed and better and uniform
gilling but not at gill box No.1 because that will hamper productivity.
Gill box No. 3 and gill box No.4 are on chain which is good for only pure wool and they are
intersecting as well.
The different stages provide uniformity to the sliver.
Attenuation /drafting is provided to reduce the sliver weight as per count requirement.
Roving frame-
Basic objective of roving is to provide draft to the sliver, this is to minimise higher drafting at
spinning stage small amount of twist is also provided to give the additional strength to the
roving. At this stage roving is converted into the yarn of required TPI and count.
1. Creel
2. Drafting zone
a. Top roller
b. Bottom roller
c. Middle roller
d. Apron
e. Spacer
3. Spindle
4. Ring
5. Traveller
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6. Separator
7. Drum pulley
8. Spindle break
9. Rockey pulley
10. Spindle tape
11. Particulars of ring frame-
12. Model no.- Mei super spinner, spindle-436
13. Spindle speed-6500rpm
14. Roller combination- 3 over 3
15. Middle to back- 85 mm
16. Diameter of roller- front roller 45mm middle roller 30 mm back roller 35 mm
17. Lift-10 inches
18. Ring dia.- 2 inches
19. Roller load(pressure)- front 35 kgs middle 12kgs back 20 kgs
20. Relative humidity- 65%
21. Autoconer/winding


Quality control department-
Quality control is the "Barometer" of the industry or in other words it is "Eyes of the mill". It
keeps check on quality from raw material to the finished product. Quality control can be
broadly classified into the following stages:-

Top Stage

Slubs: The slubs are examined very carefully and only 1 slub is allowed in wool viscose or
polyester of yard length.

Neps: Material sd. be carefully analysed for neps in 1 yearn length of material. The
maximum of neps are allowed are:-
Wool - 5
Viscose - 7
Polyester - 31

Pin-points
These are very minute so care should be taken while examining it. Permissive numbers in 1
yard are
Wool - 30
Viscose - 10
Polyester - 10

Entanglements
These are also checked by visually examining & its permissive number is 3 for wool, viscose
as well as polyester in 1 yard of length.

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Sliver weightt:
It is done simply by measuring 1 yard of sliver & weighting it.

Moisture Contents & Regain
Previously moisture analyser was used in Lal Imli but now a days it is done by putting the
sample in oven and taking its wt. immediately before & putting it in oven. Moisture content
can be calculated from the following formula:
Moisture Content M = (wt. of water/total wt. of the material) x 100
Moisture regain R = (wt. of water/oven dry wt. of the material) x 100

Composition
It is mainly done for the doing of blend. It can be understood from the following chart:-
Sample (2-4 gm)
Wool
2.5% HaoH, boiling for 15 mts.
NYLON
HCOOH formic acid at room temperature
VISCOSE
59% H2 SO4
COTTON
70% H2 SO4
POLYSTER
Phenol (Heating)

Fastness test
It is of 3 types.

a) Washing Fastness:
0.5% soap solution (non-ionic detergents for wool) is prepared and heated at 50- 55C, the
sample is then kept in this solution for 45 minutes. Its equipment is called as "Wash-Wheel".
Another detergent and lissapol-100 x (liquid) and sodium oblate (powder form). After that
sample is compared with the previous sample and following things are noted:-
(i) Change in solution
(ii) Change in yarn
(iii) Change in wool
(iv) Change in colour
& appropriate rating is given to it.


b) Water Fastness: The sample is kept in distilled water for 4 hours after that it is taken out
dried and change in sample is noted.

c) Light Fastness: In testing of light fastness sample is half covered and half open and kept
under sunlight for one week after that it is compared with grey scale and appropriate rating
is given.

Fibre Fineness
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1. Lana meter: It is somewhat like a microscope. The Fibres are placed between two slides
and put under this instrument, number of Fibres is counted 400 times and then average is
calculated.

2. Airflow Method: 1 gram of wool is kept in porous cylinder and switched on. The rise in
pressure is noted with respect to liquid (Hg). Reading of rise of liquid is compared with
graph & then its quality is determined by measuring the fineness.

Yarn Stage:

A) Count: It is determined in woollen specially by quadrant balance in which yarn sample is
taken and hanged into hook and then reading of pointer is noted down which denotes the
count of the yearn. Formula = (Length (m) x 453.6)/(weight (gm) x 560)

B) TOI: It is tested by tension type twist tester. It is threaded by the yarn. Dial is set to zero
reading. Then reading of dial is taken. When it gets untwisted which may be checked by
inserting a needle in the yarn. The reading denotes the TPI of that yarn.

C) Breaking Strength & Elongation: It is tested by breaking strength tester machine. In it the
yarn is clamped and machine is started. Vertical scale reading given elongation which is
noted down. Quadrant scale is used to measure the breaking strength.

D) Composition: The test for this is carried in the same way as in tops.

Fabric Stage:
A) Abrasion testing machine
B) Breaking strength testing machine
1. Horizontal
2. Vertical
C) Composition
D) Pilling tester machine

A. Abrasion Testing Machine: The sample cloth is fabricated on the upper and lower clamp.
3000 to 4000 revolutions is given and after that condition of the sample is noted.

B. Breaking Strength Testing Machine: Two types of B.S. testing machine are used. Vertical
B.S.testing machine is used mainly for suiting fabrics. The sample fabric of 15 cm width is
taken. While horizontal B. S. testing machine is used for testing of army clothes and samples
should be of 20 cm

C. Composition: It is also done in the same way as in tops.

D. Pilling tester machine: It is used for testing of balls on surface of fabric. The machine has
rough surface. The sample is kept in it and particular amount of revolution is given and
number of balls is noted

Sulzer weaving department-
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Weaving is the process of interlacement of warp and weft threads which are perpendicular
to each other. Weaving is done on a machine called as loom. Three types of looms are used
in Lal Imli.


(i) Handloom
(ii) Power loom
(iii) Sulzer

Handlooms are operated manually by workers (weavers), Power loom are driven by power
while sulzer is a projectile loom i.e., a projectile is used to insert the weft. Sulzer is
automatic high speed loom. Every loom has three basic operations:

(i) Shedding
(ii) Picking and
(iii) Beating

Weave designs has an important role in enhancing the attractiveness of the fabric. Some
basic weaves are:-

(i) Plain weave.
Repeat = 4
Interlacement= 4
Float = R/I = 4/4 = 1

(ii) 2/2 it will weaver:
R = 4
I = 2
F = R/2 = 4/2 = 2

(iii) 2/1 it will weave:
R = 3
I = 2
F = R/I = 3/2 = 1.5

(iv) Basket weave:
R = 4
I = 2
F = R/I = 4/2 = 2

(v) Sateen Weave:
R = 5
I = 2
F = R/I =5/2 = 2.5

Cloth Setting: D x F/ F + I
D = Diameter
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F = Float
There are 18 sulzer projectile looms in lal-imli out of which 12 are on dobby and 6 are on
tappet system.
Dye house-
Here dyeing of tops and fabrics of various materials are done.


(i) Long close machine: used for dyeing of wool tops.
(ii) High temperature high pressure machine: used for dyeing of polyester fabrics.
(iii) Winch machine: for fabric dyeing.
(iv) Jigger machine: For dyeing of polyester-viscose blends.
(v) Beam dyeing machine: It is used for dyeing of fabric in the form of beam in a closed
vessel.
(vi) Peg machine: It is used for dyeing of loose and short Fibres.
(vii) Hydro machine: used for extraction of water.
(viii) Radiation Dryer machine is used for drying of dyed materials.
Mixing house-
In this department blending and mixing is done. It is done exclusively for woollens. Two
plants known as teaser machine are used for feeding in to the hopper and collected at last.
A wool batching oil known as unipro-38 used to prevent dryness and breakage of fires. The
main object of this is to mix the different waste thoroughly and uniformly.
Various raw material coming to lal-iimli are-
1. Wool
a. Worsted(64s and 56s quality)
b. Woollen
2. Polyester
3. Viscose
4. Nylon

COMBING DEPARTMENT-
Objects of Comber:
1. To remove the short fibres below a pre-selected length so that the spinner enable to
produce finer or better quality of yarn that cannot be possible in carding state.
2. Elimination of remaining impurities.
3. Elimination of large proportion (not all) of the neps in the fibre.
4. Formation of sliver having maximum possible evenness.
5. To straighten the fibres.
Contribution of Comber to Yarn Quality:
1. To improve the uniformity and strength
2. Improve the spinning value of fibre.
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3. Reduce the neps in the yarn.
4. Improve smoothness and luster of yarn.
5. Produce much clear yarn.
6. Improve the efficiency of the next process.
7. Reduce the hairiness of the yarn.
8. Improve better twist distribution in the yarn.
The French combing process involves 5 passages gilling process, combing process,
prefinishing process and finishing process
The comber mainly straightens out the leading hooks. Thats why leading hook must be
presented to the comber. Reversal of the hook occurs at each processing stage between the
card and gilling/drawing and comber. Therefore, definite number of machine passages is
required in intervening stages. In the case of cotton fibres percentage of leading hooks is
more so an even number of passages is required, but in the case of wool the percentage of
trailing hooks is more so odd passages is required that is why there are 5 gilling passages.

1
st
passage gilling machine:
Name of the machine- strong gill
Input feed load- 12 ends X 20 gm/m = 240 gm/m
Actual draft- 6
Output sliver weight- 40 gm/m (for 64T40 barathea fabric) 36gm/m (for 56s drab
mxture)
Pitch of faller screw- 19 mm
Delivery speed- 40 m/min for both the fabrics
Faller drop- 350 per min
Faller pins- 10-1-3/4
2
nd
passage gilling machine:
Name of the machine- old gill
Input feed load- 5 ends X 40 gm/m = 200 gm/m
Actual draft- 6.7
Output sliver weight- 30 gm/m (for 64T40 barathea fabric) 33gm/m (for 56s drab
mixture)
No. of faller screw- 42
Pitch of faller screw- 15 mm
Delivery speed- 64 m/min (for 64T40 barathea fabric) 72 m/min (for 56s drab
mixture)
Faller drop- 800 per min
20 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

Faller pins- 15-1-5/8
3
rd
passage gilling machine:
2 single coiler machines
Name of the machine- NSC gill box GN-5
Input feed load- 6 ends X 30 gm/m = 180 gm/m
Actual draft- 6
Draft range- 5.2 to 15
Output sliver weight- 30 gm/m (for 64T40 barathea fabric) 32gm/m(for 56s drab
mixture)
Maximum speed- 300 m/min
Ratch- 35-45 mm
Pressure over top
Front roller- 250-300 kg/cm2
No. of faller screw- 72
Pitch of faller screw- 9 mm
Delivery speed- 103 m/min (for 64T40 barathea fabric) 103m/min (for 56s drab
mixture)
Faller drop- 1900 per min
Faller pins- 16-1 (round) X 3.5 pins/cm
4
th
gilling passage:
Name of the machine- textima gill
Input feed load- 6 ends X 30 gm/m = 180 gm/m
Actual draft- 6
Draft range- 3.6 to 11.75
Output sliver weight- 30 gm/m (for 64T40 barathea fabric) 32gm/m(for 56s drab
mixture)
Maximum speed- 250 m/min
Ratch- 35-45 mm
No. of faller screw- 72
Delivery speed- 110 m/min (for 64T40 barathea fabric) 100-110 m/min (for 56s
drab mixture)
Faller pins- 16-1(round) X 3.5 pins/cm
21 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

5
th
gilling passage:
Name of the machine- NSC gill box GN-5 (bicoiler)
Input feed load- 6 ends X 30 gm/m = 180 gm/m
Actual draft- 6
Output sliver weight- 30 gm/m {15 X 2} (for 64T40 barathea fabric) 30gm/m(for 56s
drab mixture)
Pitch of faller screw- 9 mm
Delivery speed- 103 m/min (for 64T40 barathea fabric) 103m/min (for 56s drab
mixture)
Faller pins- 15 X 21 X 1 (flat), 5 pins/cm

Combing machine:
12 combing machines
Name of the machine- NSC combs PB-28LC
Input feed load- 18 ends X 15 gm/m = 270 gm/m
Output sliver weight- 18 gm/m
Actual draft- 15
Nip distance- 28-30 mm
Pin density of the top comb- 28 pins/cm
Pin density of circular comb- 6-32 pins/cm
Distance between circular
Brush and circular can- 2 mm
Setting between circular
Brush and doffer- 0.2 mm
Setting between upper
Nipper jaw and circular
Comb- 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8 & 1 mm
Setting of lower nipper- proper
Setting between doffing
Knife and doffer- 0.2 mm
Setting between feed combs
22 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

And its fulcrum- 0.5 mm
Ratchet used- 18
Nip length- 5.4 mm for 64T40 barathea and 5.8 mm for 56s drab mixture
Position feed grid- 4mm play between feed comb and upper nipper jaw

Basic operations that the comber does are-
1. Lap feeding by feed roller
2. Lap nipping by the nipper
3. Combing by the cylinder
4. Nipper opening and forwarding
5. Detaching roller backward movement
6. Piecing
7. Combing by the top comb
8. Detaching roller forward movement
9. Starting a new cycle
10. Cleaning of cylinder comb

Prefinisher gilling passage:
Name of the machine- NSC gill box GN-5
Input feed load- 144 gm/m (8 ends X 18)
Draft- 8
Output sliver weight- 18 gm/m for both the fabrics
Pins used- 15 X 21 X 1 (flat pins)
Pin density- 5 pins/cm
Rest parameters are same as in NSC GN-5 in precombing
Delivery rate- 137 m/min for both the fabrics
Finisher gilling passage:
Name of the machine- NSC gill box GN-5
Input feed load- 8 ends X 18 gm/m = 144 gm/m
Actual draft- 8
Draft range- 5.2 to 15
Output sliver weight- 18 gm/m (for 64T40 barathea fabric) 18gm/m (for 56s drab
mxture)
Maximum speed- 300 m/min
23 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

Ratch- 35-45 mm
Pressure over top
Front roller- 250-300 kg/cm2
No. of faller screw- 72
Pitch of faller screw- 9 mm
Delivery speed- 137 m/min (for 64T40 barathea fabric) 136m/min (for 56s drab
mxture)
Faller drop- 1900 per min
Faller pins- 16 X 22 X 1 (flat) X 6 pins/cm

From 1
st
passage to finishing-

Number of faller have increased so that sufficient amount of straightening at each
stage
Fallers drop per minute has increased so that intensity of opening increases
Delivery rate has increased means better gilling att each stage

The undesirable bending of the fibre ends produces fibre hook. It is the disadvantages of
web formation at the card. Hook fibres effectively convert longer fibre to short fibres and
these cannot be permitted in the yarn. They must therefore be removed before yarn
formation. This can be done either by drafting at draw frame or combing at comber.

Basic faults-

a) Cutting across: Thick and thin places across the width of th web.
Causes:
The fault originates in the laps owing to the use of incorrect setting, excessive draft
at the lap former.
Incorrect timing of the detaching roller.
Top comb setting too deeply.
b) Curling: The term is applied when a group of fibres curls as they leave detaching roller.
Causes:
Faulty detaching roller covering.
Dirt in the top detaching rollers.
Excessive brush speed.
Bent needle of cylinder and top comb.
c) Detaching roller lapping:
Causes:
Incorrect atmospheric condition.
Oil on rollers
Sticky matter or dirt on rollers
24 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

Worn out roller coating.
Bad top cleaners.
d) Irregular sliver:
Causes:
Excessive tension on calendar roller.
Improper roller setting.
Faulty adjustment of suction unit.
Eccentricity of roller.

Efficiency data for French combing process



*NOTE- in this table a,b denotes figure for fabric 64s barathea, 56s drab mixture

Check list for gill boxes and combs in each shift
Production-
Setting of machine reading counter
Checking of number of doubling
Quality-
Checking of input and output sliver weight
Check fallers position and pin condition
Check suction bag if it is clean
Check ratch of the gill box
Check whether draft is proper
Check whether creel stop motion is working
output
delivery
rate (gm/m)
output delivery
speed (m/min)
theoretical production
rate (Kg/shift)
actual production
rate (Kg/shift)
Efficiency (%)
1st gilling passage 40, 36 40, 40 768, 691.2 499.28, 387.21 65.01, 56.02
2nd gilling passage 30, 33 64, 72 921.6, 1140.48 654.3, 729.9 71, 64
3rd gilling passage 30, 32 103, 103 1483.2, 1582.08 1008, 1028 67.9, 64.9
4th gilling passage 30, 32 110, 105 1584, 1612.8 1124, 1080 70.95, 66.9
5th gilling passage 30, 30 103, 103 1483.2, 1483.2 1067, 904 71.9, 60.9
combing process 270, 270 0.891, 0.957 115.47, 124.02 81, 88 70.1, 70.09
prefinishing stage 18, 18 137, 137 1183.68, 1183.68 816.73, 840 69, 71
finishing stage 18, 18 137, 136 1183.68, 1175.04 852, 810.7 72, 69


25 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

Check whether delivery sliver stop motion working
Check condition and position of pressure over top rubber roller
Position of sliver guide (front and back)
Checking of batching oil or antistatic agent treatment

General-
Check whether housekeeping is proper or not
Check if any broken part or missing part found
Ensure cleanliness of cans if there is any sliver waste at the bottom
Check whether delivery rate is at desired level
Check if proper intensity of light over machine Is available or not
Check whether suction is proper, chamber of back noil is clean
Check condition of top combs, circular combs

WORSTED SOPINNING DEPARTMENT-
Approximately 4-5 years back when lal-imli was running in its full swing many products were
spun in the worsted spinning department, these are-

QUALITY/SORT count in
Nm
production
(Kg)
Royal touch MW-6107 2/50 78
All wool toosh lohi
4299
2/50 102
All wool pashmina 2/50 79
all wool loho No.60 2/45 147
all wool kashmiri 2/45 117
all wool tweed 2/27 138
serge battle dress 2/18 286
terry wool suiting
6099
2/54 142
terrry wool suiting
6040
2/54 64
polywool bharaathea 2/36 97
wool viscose trosg 2/38 89
angola suiting 2/38 96


For gill box No.1 we assume the percentage wastage from this gill box to the final product
would be around 7%
26 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

Also percentage efficiency calculated for this gill box came out to be 65%, using this data we
can calculate the percentage machine utilization
QUALITY/SORT REQUIRED OUTPUT FROM GILL
BOX NO.1
NUMBER OF HEADS
REQUIRED
ROYAL TOUCH MW-
6107
83.6 0.107
ALL WOOL TOOSH
LOHI 4299
109.7 0.141
ALL WOOL PASHMINA 84.9 0.108
ALL WOOL LOHO
NO.60
158.6 0.203
ALL WOOL KASHMIRI 125.8 0.161
ALL WOOL TWEED 148.4 0.19
SERGE BATTLE DRESS 307.5 0.394
TERRY WOOL SUITING
6099
152.7 0.163
TERRRY WOOL
SUITING 6040
69 0.074
POLYWOOL
BHARAATHEA
104.3 0.133
WOOL VISCOSE TROSG 95.7 0.102
ANGOLA SUITING 103.2 0.132
Total number of heads= 2.20
Number of heads available= 3
Utilization = Total number of heads/ Number of heads available X 100 = 2.20/3 X 100
Utilization = 73.5%

Similarly for the second gill box
Machine efficiency calculated is = 68%
Wastage percentage is = 7%
QUALITY/SORT REQUIRED OUTPUT FROM GILL
BOX NO.2
NUMBER OF HEADS
REQUIRED
ROYAL TOUCH MW-
6107
83.6 0.116
ALL WOOL TOOSH
LOHI 4299
109.7 0.152
ALL WOOL PASHMINA 84.9 0.118
ALL WOOL LOHO
NO.60
158.6 0.22
ALL WOOL KASHMIRI 125.8 0.175
ALL WOOL TWEED 148.4 0.206
SERGE BATTLE DRESS 307.5 0.428
TERRY WOOL SUITING
6099
152.7 0.212
27 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

TERRRY WOOL
SUITING 6040
69 0.096
POLYWOOL
BHARAATHEA
104.3 0.145
WOOL VISCOSE TROSG 95.7 0.133
ANGOLA SUITING 103.2 0.143
Total number of heads= 2.144
Number of heads available= 3
Utilization = Total number of heads/ Number of heads available X 100 = 2.144/3 X
100
Utilization = 71.4%

For the 3
rd
gilling passage
Calculated machine efficiency = 70.5 %
Wastage percentage = 7 %
QUALITY/SORT REQUIRED OUTPUT FROM GILL
BOX NO.3
NUMBER OF HEADS
REQUIRED
ROYAL TOUCH MW-
6107
83.6 0.105
ALL WOOL TOOSH
LOHI 4299
109.7 0.136
ALL WOOL PASHMINA 84.9 0.105
ALL WOOL LOHO
NO.60
158.6 0.196
ALL WOOL KASHMIRI 125.8 0.156
ALL WOOL TWEED 148.4 0.184
SERGE BATTLE DRESS 307.5 0.381
TERRY WOOL SUITING
6099
152.7 0.189
TERRRY WOOL
SUITING 6040
69 0.085
POLYWOOL
BHARAATHEA
104.3 0.129
WOOL VISCOSE TROSG 95.7 0.118
ANGOLA SUITING 103.2 0.128
Total number of heads= 1.909
Number of heads available= 3 (2 heads
per machine)
Utilization = Total number of heads/ Number of heads available X 100 = 1.909/3 X
100
Utilization = 63.6 %

28 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

For the 4
th
gilling passage
Calculated machine efficiency = 69 %
Wastage percentage = 7 %


QUALITY/SORT REQUIRED OUTPUT FROM GILL
BOX NO.4
NUMBER OF HEADS
REQUIRED
ROYAL TOUCH MW-
6107
83.6 0.087
ALL WOOL TOOSH
LOHI 4299
109.7 0.115
ALL WOOL PASHMINA 84.9 0.089
ALL WOOL LOHO
NO.60
158.6 0.166
ALL WOOL KASHMIRI 125.8 0.132
ALL WOOL TWEED 148.4 0.155
SERGE BATTLE DRESS 307.5 0.322
TERRY WOOL SUITING
6099
152.7 0.16
TERRRY WOOL
SUITING 6040
69 0.072
POLYWOOL
BHARAATHEA
104.3 0.109
WOOL VISCOSE TROSG 95.7 0.1
ANGOLA SUITING 103.2 0.108
Total number of heads= 1.615
Number of heads available= 3 (4 heads
per machine)
Utilization = Total number of heads/ Number of heads available X 100 = 1.615 /3 X
100
Utilization = 53.8 %

Machine utilization for roving frame machine-
Percentage wastage from roving to final product = 5%
Speed of roving is = 800 rpm

QUALITY/SORT REQUIRED
OUTPUT
FROM
ROVING
T.P.M.
REQUIRED
FOR
ROVING
ROVING
WEIGHT
GM/M
EFFICIENCY
%
ACTUAL
PRODUCTION
NUMBER
OF HEADS
REQUIRED
29 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s


Total number of heads = 378.37
Number of shifts = 3
Number of spindles available = 128
Machine utilisation = (387.37/3)/128 = 126.123/128 = 0.9853
Percentage machine utilisation = 98.53 %
Machine utilisation for ring spinning-
Percentage wastage from ring spun yarn to final product = 2%
Spindle speed of ring frame is 7000 rpm
FRAME
ROYAL TOUCH MW-
6107
82.2 34.55 0.4 65 2.89 28.44
ALL WOOL TOOSH
LOHI 4299
107.4 34.55 0.4 67 2.97 36.16
ALL WOOL
PASHMINA
83.2 34.55 0.4 66 2.93 28.39
ALL WOOL LOHO
NO.60
154.8 34.29 0.5 65 3.63 42.64
ALL WOOL
KASHMIRI
123.2 34.29 0.5 64 3.58 34.41
ALL WOOL TWEED 145.4 21.58 0.8 66 9.39 15.48
SERGE BATTLE
DRESS
301.2 19.3 1 68 13.52 22.27
TERRY WOOL
SUITING 6099
260.1 34.55 0.4 62 2.75 94.58
TERRRY WOOL
SUITING 6040
67.4 34.55 0.4 63 2.8 24.07
POLYWOOL
BHARAATHEA
102.2 26 0.6 62 5.49 18.61
WOOL VISCOSE
TROSG
93.8 26 0.6 65 5.76 16.28
ANGOLA SUITING 101.1 26 0.6 67 5.93 17.04
QUALITY/SORT REQUIRED
OUTPUT FROM
RING FRAME
T.P.M.
REQUIRED FOR
RING
YARN
WEIGHT
GM/M
EFFICIENCY
%
ACTUAL
PRODUCTION
NUMBER OF
HEADS REQUIRED
ROYAL TOUCH MW-
6107
79.6 727.55 0.02 80 0.074 1075.6
ALL WOOL TOOSH
LOHI 4299
104 650.39 0.02 82 0.084 1238
ALL WOOL PASHMINA 80.6 650.39 0.02 80 0.082 982.9
ALL WOOL LOHO
NO.60
150 629.13 0.022 77 0.09 1666.6
ALL WOOL KASHMIRI 119.3 629.13 0.022 83 0.097 1229.8
30 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

Total number of heads = 13323.5
Number of shifts = 3
Number of spindles available =
14400
Machine utilisation = 13323.5/14400 = 0.925
Percentage machine utilisation = 92.5 %






Machine utilisation for autowinding-
Percentage wastage from yarn produced by this machine to final product = 1 %
Drum speed is = 800 m/min
ALL WOOL TWEED 140.8 440.15 0.037 82 0.231 609.5
SERGE BATTLE DRESS 291.7 453.14 0.055 75 0.305 956.4
TERRY WOOL SUITING
6099
144.8 729.52 0.018 77 0.063 2298.4
TERRRY WOOL
SUITING 6040
65.4 729.52 0.018 79 0.065 1006.1
POLYWOOL
BHARAATHEA
98.9 572.83 0.027 83 0.131 754.9
WOOL VISCOSE TROSG 90.8 570.86 0.026 84 0.128 709.4
ANGOLA SUITING 97.9 570.86 0.026 81 0.123 795.9
QUALITY/SORT REQUIRED
OUTPUT
FROM RING
FRAME
YARN
WEIGHT
GM/M
EFFICIENCY
%
ACTUAL
PRODUCTION
NUMBER OF HEADS
REQUIRED
ROYAL TOUCH MW-
6107
78.8 0.02 45 3.45 22.884
ALL WOOL TOOSH
LOHI 4299
103 0.02 46 3.53 29.17
ALL WOOL PASHMINA 79.8 0.02 47 3.6 22.16
ALL WOOL LOHO
NO.60
148.5 0.022 43 3.63 40.9
ALL WOOL KASHMIRI 118.1 0.022 42 3.54 33.36
ALL WOOL TWEED 139.4 0.037 40 5.68 24.54
SERGE BATTLE DRESS 288.8 0.055 46 9.71 29.74
TERRY WOOL SUITING 143.4 0.018 47 3.24 44.25
31 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s


Total number of heads = 332.53
Number of shifts = 3
Number of spindles available = 450
Machine utilisation = 332.53/450 = 0.738
Percentage machine utilisation = 73.8 %

Machine utilisation for textool doubling machine-
Percentage wastage from yarn produced from this stage to the final yarn = 0.5 %
Drum speed = 400 m/min



QUALITY/SORT REQUIRED
OUTPUT
FROM RING
FRAME
YARN
WEIGHT
GM/M
EFFICIENCY
%
ACTUAL
PRODUCTION
NUMBER OF
HEADS
REQUIRED
ROYAL TOUCH MW-
6107
78.4 0.04 70 5.37 14.59
ALL WOOL TOOSH
LOHI 4299
102.5 0.04 72 5.52 18.56
ALL WOOL PASHMINA 79.4 0.04 73 5.6 14.17
ALL WOOL LOHO
NO.60
147.7 0.044 75 6.336 23.31
ALL WOOL KASHMIRI 117.6 0.044 68 5.74 20.48
ALL WOOL TWEED 138.7 0.074 69 9.8 14.15
SERGE BATTLE DRESS 287.4 0.11 65 13.72 20.94
TERRY WOOL SUITING
6099
142.7 0.036 66 4.56 31.29
TERRRY WOOL
SUITING 6040
64.3 0.036 73 5.04 12.75
POLYWOOL
BHARAATHEA
97.5 0.054 70 7.25 13.44
WOOL VISCOSE TROSG 89.4 0.052 71 7.08 12.62
ANGOLA SUITING 96.5 0.052 70 7.68 12.56

6099
TERRRY WOOL
SUITING 6040
64.6 0.018 43 2.97 21.75
POLYWOOL
BHARAATHEA
98.9 0.027 45 4.66 21.22
WOOL VISCOSE TROSG 89.9 0.026 42 4.19 21.45
ANGOLA SUITING 96.9 0.026 46 4.59 21.11
32 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

Total number of heads = 208.86
Number of shifts = 3
Number of spindles available = 360
Machine utilisation = 208.86/360 = 0.5801
Percentage machine utilisation = 58.01 %
Machine utilisation for TFO machine-
Since this is the final product therefore there is assumed to be no wastage
Spindle speed is = 13000 rpm

Total number of heads = 3492.06
Number of shifts = 3
Number of spindles available = 5047
Machine utilisation = 3492.06/5047 = 0.6919
Percentage machine utilisation = 69.19 %


The overall utilization of the spinning department can be found out by multiplying number
of machines with its utilization and then adding all these terms and then divide it by total
machines in the department, that is-
QUALITY/SORT REQUIRED
OUTPUT
FROM RING
FRAME
T.P.M.
REQUIRED
FOR RING
YARN
WEIGHT
GM/M
EFFICIENCY
%
ACTUAL
PRODUCTION
NUMBER OF
HEADS
REQUIRED
ROYAL TOUCH MW-
6107
78 727.55 0.04 80 0.274 284.67
ALL WOOL TOOSH
LOHI 4299
102 650.39 0.04 81 0.31 329.03
ALL WOOL PASHMINA 79 650.39 0.04 82 0.314 251.59
ALL WOOL LOHO
NO.60
147 629.13 0.044 85 0.37 397.3
ALL WOOL KASHMIRI 117 629.13 0.044 76 0.331 353.47
ALL WOOL TWEED 138 440.15 0.074 83 0.87 158.62
SERGE BATTLE DRESS 286 453.14 0.11 82 1.24 230.64
TERRY WOOL SUITING
6099
142 729.52 0.036 81 0.249 570.28
TERRRY WOOL
SUITING 6040
64 729.52 0.036 77 0.237 270.04
POLYWOOL
BHARAATHEA
97 572.83 0.054 78 0.458 211.79
WOOL VISCOSE TROSG 89 570.86 0.052 74 0.42 211.9
ANGOLA SUITING 96 570.86 Jan-00 76 0.431 222.73
33 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

Total utilization = [73.5 X 1 + 71.4 X 1 + 63.6 X 1 + 53.8 X 1 + 98.53 X 3 + 92.5 X 12 + 73.8 X 4
+ 58.01 X 1 + 69.19 X 12] / 36 = 79.20
TOTAL YTILIZATION = 79.20 %

WEAVING DEPARTMENT-

When yarn packages arrive in weaving department it is first checked that the quality of yarn
packages is good and fulfils the requirements, it is then send for
Sectioning
Warping
Healding in the heald eyes for selvedge, main body and the monogram (according to
the design to be produced)
Load the beam on the loom
Beam gatting
1
st
pick inserted
Machine cleaning, maintenance, oiling, greasing
Check machine if heald frame is in jack, reed is tight
Small amount is produced
Patron checking- to check in every heald if the pattern is correct or not
To check PPI, EPI, plan checking
To produce the fabric

Insertion cycle of the projectile machine-
a) The projectile is put in launching position, the weft is hold at its end by the weft carrier
and is controlled by the weft tensioner, by the weft brake and by the eyelet situated in
proximity of the feeding bobbin.

b) The weft carrier gets open after the projectile clamp has got hold of the end of the weft
thread.

c) The projectile is launched and crosses the shed dragging with itself the weft, while the
weft tensioner and the weft brake operate in a way as to minimize the stress on the yarn
(the critical phases are particularly the initial acceleration phase and the final stop phase in
the collector box).

d) The projectile on the one hand and the weft carrier on the other take up the right
position to build up the selvedge, while the tensioner arm opens to adjust the weft tension.
34 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s


e) The weft carrier closes while the selvedge clamps get hold of the weft thread on both
sides and the projectile clamp is opened to release the weft end.

f) The thread is cut by the scissors on the launching side, while the projectile is placed in the
transport chain. Loading of the torsion bar:
a) Torsion bar in rest, knee-joint lever in articulate position.
b) Loading phase.
c) Torsion bar in tension and knee joint lever in stable position, before the launching
control by roller.
g) The weft is beaten by the reed, while the weft carrier moves back to its initial position
and the weft tensioner opens further to recover the thread piece and to keep it under
tension. The projectile is brought back to the launching zone.

h) The selvedge needles insert the weft ends into the subsequent shed (tuck-in selvedge),
while a new projectile is placed in launching position.

Parts of picking mechanism in sulzer projectile loom-
1. Torsion bar: it has splinted ends as seen in the fig one end is secured firmly at the
clamping flange with provision for adjusting twisting angle. The twisting length of the
torsion is 721 mm. Its diameter is 17 mm. Larger the diameter higher the
initial projectile speed. The angular twisting of torsion bar at commencement of picking is
28-30O.
2. Picking shaft: The free end of the torsion bar is linked with the picking shaft through
spines.

3. Picking lever: The picking lever is clamped on the picking shaft.
4. Picking shoe: The picking lever carries the picking shoe at its top end.
5. Picking shaft lever: It is a rigid part of the picking shaft.
6. Toggle plates: The toggle plates carry a roller and connected to the picking shaft lever
through a link. They are covered at the bottom.
7. Picking cam: It is mounted on a shaft and rotated by bevel wheels once every pick. It
rotates in the clockwise direction. It carries a roller after the nose part.
8. Oil break: The shock of the picking is taken by the oil break.

35 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

Light signals-
Blue light blinking- warp thread breakage.
Yellow light blinking- weft thread breakage, shut down via switch-off button 6.
Yellow and red light blinking- shut down via emergency switch 8.
Yellow light- specified length of fabric attained.
Red light blinking- mechanical fault (annunciator for foreman).
Red light blinks when machine is in operation- electronic projectile detector or weft
detector shut off

Machine does not start up-
This is probably because of the following reasons-
Signal lamps do not light up- Main switch 4 switched off. Attention: make sure that
service personnel is not working on the machine
All three signal lamps blinking-
Red and yellow signal lamps blinking-
Red signal lamp blinking-Shed levelling device in working position, turn hand wheel
until stop motion engages level shaft or hand wheel of pick finding device in working
position.
Mechanical or electronic fault

Changing the speed of the machine-
Each v belt is provided with seven spacing discs having a thickness of 1 mm and two spacing
discs with a thickness of 0.5 mm.
The speed can be increased (or reduced in reverse order) by removing spacing discs from
the v belt guide and inserting them on the rear side of the end discs.
The number and thickness of the spacing discs are to be the same in each of the four v belt
guides likewise the number and thickness are to be the same on the rear of the end discs.
The difference in speed resulting from the displacement of a spacing disc.






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Production data for few years in weaving department-

YEAR Production of cloth
in meters
Value of produced
cloth in INR
Utilization of the
machinery %
2005-06 465000 114567000 27.11
2006-07 249000 47207000 27.10
2007-08 52000 9700000 13.72
2008-09 24000 4280000 4.99
2009-10 42000 8800000 4.06
2010-11 6000 869000 1.01
2011-12 17000 4051000 1.85
2012-13 20000 6400000 1.65
2013-14 21000 6700000 1.70

As it is clear that the production in this department has been declining drastically mainly
because of absence of raw material due to less demand in the market, but still the
machinery present in this department is in the working condition.











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THE BRITISH INDIA CORPORATION was registered as a Limited Company on the 24th
February, 1920. It was founded by the late Sir Alexander Mac Robert. The corporation was
formed with the specific object of combining and amalgamating, under one Board of
Directors, the following business with effect from the 1
st
of January, 1920. CAWNPORE
WOOLLEN MILLS CO. manufacturers of the well-known "LALIMLI" brand of all- wool, pure
wool materials - Kanpur (Established in 1876).
COOPER ALLEN & CO. Ltd. proprietors of the largest Army Boot and Equipment Factory in
the world Kanpur (Established in 1881)
NORTH West Tannery Co. Ltd., Proprietors of the largest and the most up-to date
Tannery in the East Kanpur (Established in 1881).
NEW EGERTON WOOLLEN MILLS CO. Ltd., Sole manufacturers of the celebrated
"DHARIWAL" long life wool wear Dhariwal, Punjab. (Established in 1882).
CAWNPORE COTTON MILLS CO. Ltd., Sole manufacturers of the unsurpassed "KAKOMI"
Cotton Yarns and Fabrics Kanpur (Established in 1882).
Empire Engineering Co. Ltd., Civil, Mechanical, Motor and Constructional Engineers,
Contractors and Builders Kanpur (Established in 1894).
Over the years four of the above companies have shut down their businesses and are no
longer in existence. Only two of the business units are in existence and are running as on
date viz., Cawnpore Woollen Mills Branch, Kanpur, and New Egerton Woollen Mills Branch,
Dhariwal, Punjab.
The Company changed hands from British interests to the Indian business families of
MUNDRAS and then BAJORIAS between 1955 and 1962
In February 1963 the management of BIC got vested with an elected Board with the
approval of Central Government as well as UTI, LIC and Banks.
In June, 1981, BIC became a Government Company through an Ordinance promulgated by
the Government of India.
It is a Public Sector undertaking, under the control of Ministry of Textiles, Government of
India, and is the only P.S.U. manufacturing Woollen Textiles in the country.
On the basis of its financial position, the company was referred to the Board for Industrial
and Financial Reconstruction (BIFR) on 31st March, 1991.
Rehabilitation Scheme of B.I.C. was approved by BIFR in Feb. 2008. As per direction of
cabinet the M.D.R.S. was reassessed by I.F.C.I. & W.R.A. and forwarded to BRPSE for its
approval. The scheme was approved by BRPSE on 28th July, 2010. It is expected that the
38 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

cabinet approval and other formalities will be completed shortly and thereafter production
activities shall resume in full swing.


Organisational structure of the company-

Administrative and technical setup
P.K. SHARMA General Manager
FINANCE
R.C. Sharma Dy. Manager (F&A)
ADMINISTRATION
Raja Mitra Manager (P&A)
S.K. Upadhaya Manager (L&S)
TECHNICAL
N.B.Singh Worsted Superintendent
A.K.Gupta Weaving Superintendent.
S.K. Mishra Woollen Superintendent
Manish Shukla Dyeing Master
SALES
S.N. Verma Manager Sales
Address: 11/6, Parvati Bangla Road, Post Box No. 77, Kanpur 208 001 (U.P.) India
Phone: 0512-2530212, 2530213, 2530214
Fax: 0512-2530201
E-mail: bicltdsps@yahoo.co.in

B.I.C. Limited was declared as sick company in 1992, and was referred to Board for Industrial
& Financial Reconstruction (BIFR). The Government proposed a Rehabilitation Scheme for
the company in 2000 and BIFR approved the revival of the two Woollen Mills Cawnpore
Woollen Mills Branch (Lal Imli) & NEWM Branch, Dhariwal, Punjab. The cost of the BIFR
approved rehabilitation scheme was Rs. 210.51 crores. The Government has released Rs.
86.00 crores as envisaged in the scheme to BIC Ltd., The said Rehabilitation Scheme could
39 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

not be implemented within the stipulated time frame mainly due to non-cooperation of UP
Govt. in granting necessary permission for converting leasehold land into freehold at free of
charge or with minimum charges, because the main source to finance the scheme was to be
generated through the sale of surplus assets. The BIFR reviewed the matter on November
29, 2005 and issued direction that the company and operating agency i.e. IDBI should
prepare a modified Draft Rehabilitation Scheme and submit the same for consideration of
BIFR. Accordingly, the draft modified rehabilitation scheme was submitted to BIFR. The BIFR
considered the scheme in its hearing dated 14.2.2007. Minutes of the meeting are awaited.
Mission-
To cater the demands of woollen and worsted goods to Indian Defence Forces, Para-military
Forces, Government Bodies and Indian Citizens with quality and on market compatible price.
Objective of the company-
To contribute at our best in fulfilling the big demand of Woollen and Worsted goods of
Defence and Para-military Forces, Government Bodies and our Civilians vis-a-vis Private
Sector.
Being a Public Sector unit to act as a factor for the Government to rein in the Private
Sector lest it should exploit the monopoly in the market.
To create the marketing opportunities in the virgin areas of the market.
To create a suitable environment and facility for proper R&D work to propel the
prospects of our products in the market.
To enable us as a Brand Ambassador of the Government regarding Woollen goods in
the market since we have the oldest legacy of woollen products in the nation.
To discharge the social responsibilities of an organization with due direction of the
Government.

S.W.O.T. Analysis-
Strength-
Lal-imli is an established company since 1876 (138 years)
The company is recognised globally
It produces high standard quality woollen products
Lal Imli employees are highly experienced persons Lal Imli employees are highly
experienced people.
Weakness-
Financial problems
Employees are not trained in a modern way
Internal conflicts (agency costs involved)
No focus on sales promotion and advertising
Opportunity-
40 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

Central government provide time to time financial support
Government give managerial support
Already a well-recognised and established brand all over the world
Can create demands in restrictions of its capabilities by innovations, great demand
can provide finance to initiate greater supply
Threats-
Very difficult to compete with modern rival companies who have already captured
the market
Modernisation of technology or a technological revolution before the company gets
a chance to revive its full capacity
High cost of production of lal-imli products and lower profit margins before the
renovation of the company

Statement of financial position-
The statement of financial position summarises the companys financial position. It must be
remembered that the statement of financial position (the balance sheet) is a snapshot of
events at one point in time. Effectively, the statement consists of two lists:
1. A list of everything owned by the business
2. A list of the various sources of finance used to fund these acquisitions.
Everything of value which is owned by a business is called an asset. Finance can be
provided by the owners of the business (equity) or by third parties (liabilities).
Assets = Equity + Liabilities
Non-current assets + Net current assets = Equity + Long-term liabilities. Where:
Net current assets = Current assets - Current liabilities.

Ratio analysis-
Current ratio-
This ratio is used to assess whether the company will be able to pay its bills over the next
few months. It provides a comparison of an estimate of the amount of money due to be
received in the short term with an estimate of the amount of money to be paid.
Current asset = current assets / current liabilities
The current ratio for the company is = 45233194 / 138327902 = 0.326
The current ratio of the company is very low which shows that its liquidity in short term is
very poor and it will be very difficult for the company to fulfil its current liabilities from its
current assets.
Debtors turnover ratio-
41 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

This is a measure of the average length of time taken for debtors (trade receivables) to
settle their balance.
Debtors turnover period = (trade receivables (debtors)/sales) X 365
DTR of the company is = 546098 / 7562537 = 0.072
This ratio being so small shows that a very small fraction of the sales volume is used to give
debts which shows that the company is unable to trust on its customers, but also since the
company is in a sick kind of situation it is not expected from it that it will give any of its small
sales in debt to its customers.
Interest coverage ratio-
Interest cover on an issue of loan capital is defined to be the profit on ordinary activities
before interest and taxation divided by the annual interest payments due on that issue of
the loan capital and on all prior ranking loan capital.
ICR = the profit on ordinary activities before interest and taxation/ annual interest payments
The ICR of the company is = -347047507 / 128222543 = -1.706
Asset cover ratio-
Asset cover on an issue of loan capital is defined to be total assets less current liabilities less
intangible assets all divided by the loan capital plus prior ranking debt.
Asset cover = total assets less current liabilities less intangible assets / loan capital plus prior
ranking debt
The asset cover of the company is = 112791784 / 13832702 = 8.15
The asset cover of the company is decent and it depicts that it will be able cover its liabilities
in case of liquidation by selling its non-current assets.
ROCE-
Return on capital employed is the most important profitability ratio indeed it is often
referred to as the primary ratio or return on investment. It measures the relationship
between the amount invested in the business and the returns generated for those investors.
The calculation of return on capital employed is complicated by the fact that capital
employed can be measured in a number of different ways. It is vitally important that the
figure for return is calculated in a consistent manner with that for capital employed.
ROCE = net profit before tax / total assets current liabilities
ROCE for the company is = -347047507 / 25536118 = -13.59
As the profit for the company is negative it is quite clear that return on capital employed
would be negative.
Profit margin-
42 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

Profit margin = net profit before tax and interest / revenue (turnover)

The profit margin for the company is = -347047507 / 8876843 = -39.09

The profit margin is also negative but its magnitude is great because the company has faced
a lot of loss for selling its products but still the company is able to sell and produce because
of the funding provided by the government of India as its a subsidiary of government.

Looking by a few ratios we can see that the company is sick but the company is still able to
produce and manufacture some of its great products. However small there is still a chance
of revival of the company if some rightful measures are taken.


Questionnaire based survey to determine consumer perception of lal-imli
products-
Statement of problem-
After an employee has been selected for a job, has been trained to do it and has worked on
it for a period of time, his performance should be evaluated. Performance evaluation or
appraisal is the process of deciding how employees do their jobs performance here refers to
the degree of accomplishment of the tasks that make up an individual is fulfilling the job
requirements. Performance appraisal system is not only used in private sector but all the
private sector are still using it. There are different methods of appraisal these can be the
traditional & modern methods. The company (Lal Imli) is following the traditional methods
of appraisal (self-appraisal/assessment * ACR) which is not up to the mark.
Sample Area-
The sample taken for this research was limited to customers and retailers in Kanpur city
only.
Sampling technique-
In my summer training I used simple random sampling for my survey and my report for
accuracy in analysis of data.
Sample size-
For this project I have used the questionnaire method. The questionnaire contains 10
questions which was distributed to 100 Respondents.
Source of data-
The data collected includes
1. Primary data
a. Information through questionnaire
b. Direct personal interview
2. Secondary data
a. Company records
43 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

b. Internet
c. Direct contact with the employees
d. Personal observation

The company Lal Imli is following the traditional methods of PA since 1876 when the
company was established. In this method a personal file of each and every individual was
maintained by personal department which evaluate there past performance of employees
on the basis of these details employees promotional and compensational decision was
taken by the personal department. The oral appraisal system was also popular in the
company. In 2010 ACR and say appraisal system assessment were in force by the company.

Questionnaire-

Q-1.Do you want change in Lal Imlis product?
A.)Dont know B.) No change C.)Small change D.)Big change

Q-2.Which quality do you like Lal Imlis product?
A.)Quality B.)Colour C.)Designs D.)Price

Q-3. In which quality Lal Imlis products differ from other similar product
Manufacturing companies (that you like)?
2
5

3
5

3
0

1
0

DON' T
KNOW
NO CHANGE S MAL L
CHANGE
BI G CHANGE
Series 1
5
0

1
0
1
5

2
5

QUAL I T Y COL OUR DE S I GN PRI CE
Series 1
44 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

A.)Quality B.)Colour C.)Designs D.)Price

Q-4.In your opinion advertisement is necessary for Lal Imlis product?
A.)Yes B.)No

Q-5.What is the main reason of struggling the Lal Imlis product in the market?
A.)Old fashion B) New competition C) High price D) dont know

Q-6.What is your personal feeling about Lal Imlis product?
A.)Very good B) Good C.) Simple D) Bad
3
8

2
3

3
2

7

QUAL I T Y COL OUR DE S I GN PRI CE
Series 1
9
5

5

Y E S NO
Series 1
4
6

3
9

4

1
1

OL D
F AS HI ONE D
NE W
COMPE T I T ORS
HI GH PRI CE DON' T KNOW
Column1
45 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s


Q-7.Which soap you prefer for the washing of Lal Imlis product?
A.)Rin B.)SurfExel C.)Tide D.)Others

Q-8.Which product of Lal Imli do you like most?
A.)Shawls B) Trousering C) Suiting D) Others

Q-9.Are you satisfied with the position of the Lal Imli?
A.)Yes B.)No
4
5
5
0

5

0

VE RY GOOD GOOD S I MPL E BAD
Series 1
2
6

2
4

3
8

1
2

RI N S URF E XCE L T I DE OT HE RS
Series 1
2
8

1
7

2
7

2
8

S HAWL S T ROUS E RI NG S UI T I NG OT HE RS
SERIES 1
Series 1
46 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s


Q-10.Do you want to visit Lal Imli?
A.)Yes B.) No




Data interpretation-
People are unaware about the condition of lal-imli but still recognises it as a brand.
In general young people are unaware about the company.
Almost all types of products are equally liked by the public.
People have faith in the quality and durability of products provided by lal-imli.
Most of the people think that products of lal-imli are old fashioned and is constantly
lagging behind its competitors in the market.
There is a huge requirement felt by almost everyone in the sample, for lal-imli to
advertise its products for increasing its sales volume.
BIC still has reputation within its customer base.

Limitations of the study-
Sample size is in a way biased because it is restricted to people living in Kanpur city
Sample size is small
6
8

3
2

Y E S NO
Series 1
9
3

7

Y E S NO
Series 1
47 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

Only bounded questions are used for this survey which includes only objective
questions
Inaccuracy in collection of data because of one person working
People sometimes give wrong choices, therefore it very difficult to know what they
really want





Mundhra scam-
In 1956 when SRI HARIDAS MUNDRA was the chairman of the company a scam involving
the issue of duplicate share certificates took place which snow-balled into a major national
issue.
Haridas Mundhra was a Calcutta-based industrialist and stock speculator who was found
guilty and imprisoned in the first big financial scandal of free India in the 1950s. The
Mundhra scandal exposed the rifts between the then Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru and
his son-in-law Feroze Gandhi, the scam took such proportions that it had effects on the
government exchequer and also led to the resignation of India's then finance Minister T. T.
Krishnamachari.
In 1957, Mundhra got the government-owned Life Insurance Corporation (LIC) which was
influenced by Finance Minister T. T. Krishnamachari to invest Rs. 1.24 crores in the shares of
six troubled companies belonging to Mundhra: Richardson Cruddas, Jessops & Company,
Smith Stanistreet, Osler Lamps, Agnelo Brothers and British India Corporation with no real
standing in order to boost the prices of those companies in the stock market. The
investment was done under governmental pressure and bypassed the LICs investment
committee, which was informed of this decision only after the deal had gone through. In the
event, LIC lost most of the money.
Standing from the treasury benches, Feroze Gandhi asked the government whether the
newly formed Life Insurance Corporation had used premiums from 5.5 million life-insurance
policyholders to buy up shares at above-market prices in the companies controlled by a
notorious stock speculator named Haridas Mundhra.
Thus the prime minister was confronted by his own son-in-law. The fierce Finance minister,
himself a noted industrialist, initially snapped "That is not the fact, but had to admit later
that this in fact was the case.
Several leading stockbrokers who were on the LIC Investment Committee testified that the
investment could not have been made for the purpose of propping up the market, as was
claimed by the Finance Ministry, and that had the LIC consulted the Investment Committee,
they would have pointed out Mundhra's forged shares episode from 1956.
The committee passed strictures against finance minister for "lying". The Finance Minister T.
T. Krishnamachari, in his testimony tried to distance himself from the LIC decision, implying
48 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

that it may have been taken by the Finance Secretary, but the Minister is constitutionally
responsible for the action taken by his secretary and he disown his actions. Eventually,
Krishanamachari had to resign. And Haridas Mundhra was jailed for 22 months.
As a result of the Mundra Scam, the Board of Directors of BIC was dissolved and a fresh
Board of Directors was constituted by the High Court of Allahabad. Sri H.S. Chaturvedi
Retired. Judge was appointed as Chairman of BIC, and the Vice Chancellor of Banaras Hindu
University became the Vice Chairman.
During the 1970s the downward slide of the company continued and the mills started
inching towards sickness. By the year 1980 the mills were almost on the verge of closure. To
avoid such a disastrous end to the pioneers of the Woollen Industry, BIC was taken over by
the Govt. of India on 11th June, 1981 by a special act of the Parliament "The British India
Corporation Ltd. (Acquisition of Shares) Act, 1981."
The private shares of the company was thus acquired by the Government of India, The Govt.
took corrective measures in the form of partial doses of modernization to pull BIC out of
doldrums, but the same proved ineffective.
As the company continued to incur losses, it was referred to the Board for Industrial and
Financial Reconstruction (BIFR) on 31st March, 1991 under the provisions of S.I.C.A. The
BIFR declared the company sick. Since then, it has been incurring huge losses because of
obsolete machinery, surplus staff and shortage of working capital.

Reasons for the sickness of the mill-
Outdated machinery- Low output because of outdated machinery
Lack of modernization- no computers in the offices except at some places where
they were not used.
Low motivation of the staff
Trade union troubles- Company was not able to pay off the salaries of labours. Lot of
strikes happened because of non-payment of salaries. As a result labour union was
formed to resolve the issues. Though labour union arouse the whole problem in
spite of solving them. Labour union started demanding lot of facilities and incentives
for labour which the firm was not able to afford.
Corruption
Lack of HR policies
Old liabilities- The Company continued to incur losses especially because the
modalities of nationalization did not address the issue of old liabilities which
continued to exist. Even the loans taken by the private management prior to
nationalization continued to get compounded resulting in massive accrual of
liabilities. The rate at which such liabilities continued to grow was definitely much
higher than the company's activities.
No young people working in the mill
Less knowledge by the staff about the processes involved in the mill
No telephonic connection between the departments

49 | T r a i n i n g r e p o r t o f C a w n p o r e W o o l l e n M i l l s

Steps taken by the government-
The latest revival package approved by the central government included a grant of Rs 17
crore for introduction of a voluntary retirement scheme for surplus workforce of the
company, and a bridge loan of Rs 11.5 crore for payment of interest liability to the State
Bank of India.

All hopes are pinned on the vast land bank BIC is sitting on in Kanpur and Dhariwal. The
government wants to sell the surplus land to raise funds to be pumped back into the sick
unit.

However, land can't be sold straightaway because it had been leased out by the Uttar
Pradesh government to the company.
Sickness is synonymous with government owned textiles mills in the country.

Apart from British India Corporation's Lal Imli, which manages to barely keep up five per
cent production, the eight other textile mills have all closed. The closure of the mills
rendered tens of thousands unemployed and contributed to the rising crime rate.

What could have been-?
We should not have continued to strike after independence, we did it to the British but we
should have not continued that after independence, the better option would have been, we
should have worked extra and asked for our desired benefits, it happens in the foreign
countries but here it did not happen like this.
This policy of strike by the unions hurt the mill worst. When government had decided that it
will pay sitting wages, workers should have protested. They thought that they will receive
payments without any work and lost their jobs instead.










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REFERENCES

o Data from internal sources of the company
o Google
o www.lal-imli.com
o Wikipedia













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THANK YOU