So you wanna go to India?

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November - December 2004

So You Wanna Go to India?

By Cara Jepsen

The first time I went to India I was terrified. I had heard a litany of horror stories about hepatitis and
hallucinations and monsoons and malaria and insatiable beggars and rickshaw accidents. I knew I
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would be sick the entire time and that I’d be dropped on my head and/or have my knees blown out by
my yoga teacher, Pattabhi Jois. In short, I thought I’d never make it back home. But I felt like I had to go
our site anyway. Not because I wanted to--but because I HAD to.
web
My practice was finally at a point
where it was injury free, and I was
relatively competent in the
ashtanga primary series and ready
to start intermediate. I had studied
with most of the senior Western
ashtanga teachers and was ready
to go to their teacher--to the
source. Fortunately, my friend Bob
wanted to go, too, so we set a
departure date (he was also
terrified).

I got advice from everyone I knew,

but my primary “Mysore coach”
was YogaNow owner, Amy Beth
Treciokas, who has been there
five times. She told me what I needed (such as a visa and immunizations), what to bring and what to
expect.

“The advice that Suddha [Weixler, director of Chicago Yoga Center, formerly N.U. Yoga Center] gave to
me in 1996 was to expect the unexpected,” Amy said. “There’s no way you can prepare. Just keep your
mind open--and expect the unexpected.

Everything in India is an exercise in faith--like getting from point A to point B,” she went on. “You don’t
know if you’re ever going to get there.”

On Amy’s advice, I spent a couple of months preparing for the trip, and wound up being almost too
organized. I put together an entire pharmacy containing everything from acidophilus to Wellness
Formula. The day I left, my boyfriend at the time and I were de-coring the toilet paper rolls I was taking
so I could fit more into my duffel bag (which I later filled with gifts to take home). Everything was perfect.
Or so I thought.

Then Lufthansa lost my luggage. For a week I had no yoga mat. No yoga clothes, no contact lens
solution, no pharmacy, nothing to change into. When I finally got my stuff back, I sent most of it back
home. I had learned my first two India lessons: Expect the unexpected, and less is more.

Which leads me to rule number one: Pack your carry-on bag very, very carefully. If you’re going to study
yoga, you should include your yoga mat, a yoga outfit, at least one change of (conservative) clothes,
toiletries and medication, as well as the name, address and telephone number of the place where you
will be staying (I was armed with this information on my second trip to Mysore and got my once-again-
lost luggage back in just 24 hours).

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So you wanna go to India?

Before you go
The book Culture Shock! India: A Guide to Customs and Etiquette by Gitanjal Kolanad gives a very
clear description of the culture and is invaluable preparatory reading. Get a copy of Lonely Planet: India
or Lonely Planet: South India before you go, and put it in your carry-on bag. The exhaustive
Indiaforvisiotrs.com offers information on everything from local customs to hotel rates.

Getting immunizations is a
personal choice, since none are
required for travel to India. But
when I found myself sicker than I’d
ever been in my life on the floor of
the Kaveri Lodge, where I was
staying, it was reassuring to know
what I didn’t have. The Centers for
Disease Control and Prevention
web site (www.cdc.gov/travel/
indiarg. htm) has a list of
recommendations. Northwestern
Memorial Hospital’s Travel
Medicine & Immunization Center
(312.695.1888) is thorough but
may scare you into getting more
than you need (for example, most
people I knew in Mysore and
Kovalam never took pills to
prevent malaria, since there was little risk; let them give you a scrip anyway). Make an appointment for
a month or two before you leave, and don’t get all of your shots on the same day (or no yoga for you!). I
got covered for polio, hepatitis A and B, typhoid fever and tetanus as well as an update on some of my
childhood immunizations. Beware: Immunizations are expensive and not usually covered by insurance.

You’ll also need a passport and tourist visa (plus a travel wallet or belt to wear underneath your clothes
to elude pickpockets). The visa is valid for six months, can be obtained at the Indian consulate in the
NBC Tower downtown and costs around $60. You apply in the morning and pick it up in the afternoon,
so give yourself a day to do this. The web site (chicago.indianconsulate.com) has the details and a
downloadable form.

Getting there
The most pleasant time to go to India is between November and March. The monsoon (rainy) season is
usually between June and October. It’s hottest from April through June.

Since I was going to the south, I chose to fly straight to Bangalore, which is convenient to both Kovalam
and Mysore. I flew Lufthansa, since there were no stopovers in India (which can be chaotic, to say the
least). Tickets to India from Chicago cost anywhere from $900 to $2500 and up. A good place to shop
for airline tickets is www.airlineconsolidator.com. Local agents who specialize in travel to India include
Nataraj Travel in Chicago (773.509.1300) and Supertravel in Skokie (847.676.9090; ask for Sue). A
more comprehensive list of area agents is posted at www.immihelp. com/directory/travelagents.html#IL.
Keep in mind that many airlines offer an open-ended ticket for an extra $100. If you’re interested in a
tour, call Intra World Travel & Tours in Evanston, 847.491.6930, or visit their Web site: www.
info@intrawld.com.

Cultural facts
The traditional Indian greeting is “namaste,” or “namaskara,” which is said while holding the palms
together below the chin.

Women’s shoulders and ankles are considered erotic areas, and while out in public you should keep
both covered (short sleeve shirts or a shawl and long, light cotton pants are good choices--the baggier
the better).

● Women are expected to stay away from Pattabhi Jois’ yoga studio (shala) during “ladies’

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So you wanna go to India?

holiday.”
● The left hand is used for wiping (I think of it as the “poo hand”) and considered unclean, so when
you eat or hand someone money or anything else, always use the right hand.
● Before entering a house or temple, take off your shoes--without touching your feet. They’re
considered almost as dirty as the poo hand.
● Be aware of what you put on your feet. For women, a single ring on the second toe of each foot
means you are married. A single toe ring on one foot means you’re a prostitute.
● Don’t point your feet at old people.
● NO PDA (as in no public displays of affection). Ever.
● When you hire a rickshaw, agree on a price before you get in, or tell the driver to use the meter.
● Only give money to beggars when you’re about to leave a place. Otherwise you’ll be swarmed.
● Don’t be surprised by questions that seem personal but aren’t meant to be (such as, “What is
your income?” or my personal favorite, “Why not married?”).
● And that’s just the tip of the iceberg. For more on Indian culture, see the book Culture Shock!
India.

What to pack
India is hard on things, so don’t bring anything you really love, because it may get ruined. Within no time
my short-wave radio, alarm clock and camera all became casualties of India. But I was able to replace
them all quite cheaply. So if you do forget or ruin something, don’t worry about it. You can probably get
it in most major Indian cities.

“Someone gave me Oil of Olay wipes and it was heaven compared to the stinky, stinging antiseptic
wipes--and they are all in one flat pack,” says ashtanga vinyasa yoga teacher Lisa Hill, who made her
first trip last year.

She adds, “Bring your own conditioner and shampoo if you’re picky.” All Indian soaps, especially
sandalwood, rock over there--as do all the moisturizers” so there is no need to bring a big supply of your
own.

Clothes
A friend of mine took her first trip to Delhi some years ago and decided to step out in her favorite
designer jeans, which were full of holes. Soon a retinue of Indian men and women was following her. It
wasn’t until later she learned that they thought (because of her pants) she was insane and were waiting
to see what she would do next. Moral of the story: Indian people tend to dress neatly, and so should
you.

For women, baggy is better. Pack long, light pants that cover the ankles, a shawl to cover the shoulders
and/or buttock area (or buy some there), a sweater, some long, loose tops, comfortable sandals or flip-
flops, a pair of sneakers, a swim suit, sun hat, some yoga outfits (I brought five), a bandanna (for wiping
sweat and drying off glasses/ plates/ banana leaves) and a rain poncho. Helen Hammond Snow, who
recently traveled to Chennai, said one of the best things she brought was lightweight, quick-dry pants
she picked up at REI. You can get clothes made (or copied) cheaply in India, which has amazing tailors
and even more amazing textiles. Don’t bring anything sleeveless (unless it’s a yoga top).

And don’t forget

A strong insect repellant, prescription meds (including the antibiotic Cipro [ciprofloxacin]) plus the
prescriptions themselves, glasses prescription, diarrhea medicine, vitamins, toilet paper, aspirin, a
nighttime analgesic like Tylenol PM, sunscreen, towel, mat, Mysore rug (if you’re going to study
ashtanga), a good, comfortable backpack and tiny padlocks to put on it, a regular-size combination lock
(for the door to your room), resealable plastic bags, a first-aid kit including triple antibiotic cream or
ointment and three-inch first-aid tape (which has many uses), a portable clothesline, earplugs, eyeglass
repair kit, alarm clock, hand sanitizer and antiseptic towelettes (you can never bring enough), energy
bars, tons of mini tissue packets (for all those times you’re away from the hotel room and don’t want to
use your left hand), a good water bottle, a small notebook, school pens (for children), coins (same),
sewing kit, razors, a cable lock (to secure your luggage to your seat if you’re going to travel by overnight
train), pictures from home, flashlight (for power outages), umbrella, driver’s license (if you’re going to
rent a scooter), Swiss army knife, and if you’re a woman, yeast infection medication and tampons. (I
also took Super C packets, grapefruit seed extract, miso soup powder, acidophilus, and herbal tea.) An
iPod or portable CD player with speakers is also an option.

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So you wanna go to India?

Don’t forget to bring photocopies of your passport and credit cards. And write down the contact
information for the nearest U.S. Consulate (better yet, register with it before you go). Also take the
contact info for your U.S. travel agent.

Money
I brought both cash and travelers cheques. You can buy rupees at the airport; make sure you ask for
some small bills (tens are good) because rickshaw drivers and others rarely have change--or so they
claim. Many ATM cards work in India; you just have to find out which machine to use. It’s also easy to
get a cash advance on a credit card (although the interest rate is high).

But wait, there’s more

The water is not for the tender Western stomach and can be full of parasites. Watch where you wade
(avoid stagnant water). Don’t drink tap water. Don’t order drinks or juices or smoothies made with ice. If
you’re given a banana leaf or plate or glass that’s wet, dry it off ASAP. Keep your mouth shut while
showering. Brush your teeth with bottled water. Most milk products are unpasturized and should be
cooked or avoided. Avoid raw fruits and vegetables unless you peel them yourself. The general rule of
thumb with food is: Cook it, Boil it, Peel it or Forget it. When you buy bottled water, make sure the seal
is intact.

If you do get sick, seek treatment if the problem lasts longer than 24 hours. Doctors in India are
inexpensive, and the ones I visited were well versed in how to treat Westerners. Waiting can result in
dehydration and hospitalization. Travel insurance is never a bad idea, especially if you’re going on an
expensive tour.

You can also get travelers’ health insurance that will cover you while you’re there. I got a Travelocity.
com preferred membership plan, which would fly me out of the country for treatment (or funeral) if
necessary. There’s a lot of information at www.insurance-network.com.

Load-shedding, or blackouts, take place at unexpected times, so always carry a torch (flashlight). I
brought a mini maglight, a penlight and a keychain light. If you spend lots of time online, compose your
missives off-line and save often.

When you first arrive, ignore the touts who swarm at you at the airport and go straight to the
government prepaid taxi stand, which charges a fair rate and uses licensed drivers.

When traveling in a crowded area, reverse your backpack and wear it in front of your body so you can
keep an eye on it. If you’re a woman, this also eliminates groping or “Eve teasing,” which is inevitable.

Some Indianisms: It’s a railway station, not a train station. It’s a taxi, not a cab. It’s not a movie; it’s a
film. It’s browsing, not being on the Internet. As already noted, a flashlight is a torch. A lodge is a hotel.
A hotel is a restaurant. A military hotel serves meat. It’s not a schedule, it’s “timings.” And they drive on
the left side of the road, so look both ways--twice.

Where to Study Yoga in India

By Cara Jepsen

Three of the most prominent students of master teacher Sri T. Krishnamacharya, who taught in Mysore
from 1931 to 1993, are his son, TKV Desikachar, in Chennai; BKS Iyengar in Pune; and Pattabhi Jois in
Mysore. Lucky for us, all three welcome Western students to their shalas (studios).

BKS Iyengar
There’s a two-year waiting list to study at the Ramamani Iyengar Memorial Yoga Institute in Pune,
where BKS’s 60-year-old daughter Geeta does most of the teaching. The minimum stay is one month,
which costs $300. You must have practiced the Iyengar system for at least eight years and have the
approval of a certified Iyengar teacher before applying to: Mr. Pandurang Rao, Secretary, RIMYI, 1107
B/1 Hare Krishna Mandir Road, Model Colony, Shivaji Nagar, Pune 411 015, Maharashtra, India

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So you wanna go to India?

(phone: 91.20.2565.6134). The nearest international airport is in Mumbai and it’s a short flight from
there to Pune. You must arrange for your own accommodations. For more information, contact Yoga
Circle at 312.915.0750 or see www.bksiyengar.com.

TKV Desikachar
There’s often a waiting list at the Krishnamacharya Yoga Mandiram in Chennai (Madras), which offers
two-week retreats ($850) and four-week ($1000 plus lodging) courses that cover asana, pranayama,
theory and meditation as well as adapting yoga for special needs. They also offer a two-year
postgraduate degree. Details can be found on the Web site (www.kym.org), or contact Mrs. Geetha
Shankar, Assistant Director of Studies, KYM, 31, Fourth Cross Street, R K Nagar, Chennai 600 028,
India. The telephone number is 91.44.2493.3092, or e-mail studies@kym.org. You must find your own
lodging (except for the two-week retreat) in Chennai, which is home to a major airport.

Pattabhi Jois
Pattabhi Jois teaches with his daughter, Saraswati, and his grandson, Sharath Rangaswamy, at the
Ashtanga Yoga Resource Institute in Mysore. The recommended stay is three months and the minimum
is one month. The first month is Rs 26,900 (over $600) and each subsequent month is Rs 16,900
(around $400). You must send a letter of intent a month before you plan to arrive; if you don’t receive a
reply, you’re in. Send it to Sri K. Pattabhi Jois, #235 8th Cross, 3rd Stage, Gokulam, Mysore 570002,
Karnataka, India (phone: 91.821.2516.756). Or see www.ayri.org. Make sure you bring a passport
photo to registration, which is from 4:30 to 6 p.m., Monday through Friday. The nearest international
airport is in Bangalore, which is three hours or so by train or taxi to Mysore. Flights usually arrive in the
wee hours, so you may want to stay the night. Information on accommodations (which are your own
responsibility) and other details about Mysore can be found at www.mysore.yogaholidays. net. A list of
Mysore blogs is posted at www.ashtangi.net. There’s also a Mysore-related bulletin board at http://p196.
ezboard.com/ fyoga84291frm12.

Cara Jepsen is a writer and cartoonist and teaches at the Chicago Yoga Center (formerly N.U.),
YogaNow, East Bank Club, the Lincoln Park Athletic Club and DePaul University’s Ray Meyer Fitness &
Recreation Center (for her schedule see www.yogachicago.com/teachers/ cara.shtml). She also
teaches privately and in the workplace and can be reached at 773.315.5489.

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