Shetland Lace Jabot

I dont feel gauge is critical in this project. My lace

gauge (while it was blocking) was roughly 1 inch per
repeat. If youd like a jabot that has more ruffle, cast on
more stitches, in a multiple of six. When it comes time
to k2tog across the row, decrease more aggressively to
gather the extra stitches.

The jabot is attached with ties. They should go around
the neck and tie in a knot underneath the ruffles. You
can use ribbon for the ties, instead of sewing them. You
could also use Velcro if you wanted but that would not
be historically accurate.

I bought one skein of Habu and divided it into two
skeins (rolling one onto an empty toilet paper roll). I
wish that Id gone ahead and bought a second skein and
avoided the dividing step. This yarn isnt that expensive
so it would have saved me some time and effort. One
skein was enough for my three tiered jabot and matching
cuffs.

Materials:
1 skein Habu A-177, held double throughout (see notes,
you may want 2 skeins)
3.5 mm (US 4) circular needles (you will be knitting
flat, but this will help with blocking)
00 DPNs
Fabric lining -- 1 rectangle 5 x 18, and 2 rectangles
1.5 x 15 for ties. If your material isnt stiff enough,
cut another rectangle 5 x 18 of interfacing for the
collar.


- S2KP -- Slip to stitches as if to knit, knit 1, pass
slipped stitches over
- yarn over
For the rest, knit on right side, purl on wrong side.

Each tier is constructed the same way. If youd like more
than three layers, continue as for tier 3.

Directions for tiers:
Cast on 60 sts with larger needle.
Knit one row. Purl one row.

Keep the first three stitches and last three stitches of
every row as a garter st selvedge (knit every row).
Begin chart (from Victorian Lace Todays Miss Lambert
Shetland Shawl)
Work chart 4 times.

At this point you will lightly block. Slide your stitches to
the cable of your needle, or to a lifeline. Spray with
water and lightly stretch it out into a rectangle. When
its dry, you can continue knitting. It should be roughly
8-9 inches wide and 3-4 inches high.

Switch to smaller needles. Ignore selvedge sts. Knit one
row. K2tog across row. Knit one row.
Continue as below

First tier:
Cut yarn. Leave your sts on the DPN or move them to a
stitch holder. Set aside.

Second tier:
Continue knitting in garter stitch (knitting every row).
Measure your second tier against your first tier. Youll
want enough garter stitch rows so that they overlap a
little (as you like it). For me, it was about 2 inches. End
with a WS row.

When the length is right, hold both tiers together, right
sides facing you, first tier on top of the second. Use a 3
needle bind-off to bind the first tier and second tier
together. Cut yarn, leaving a tail long enough to sew the
ruffles to the collar band.

Third tier:
Work as second tier through garter stitch section. When
the length is right, bind off all stitches loosely. Cut yarn
and leave a long tail. Use the tail to sew the third tier to
the base of the garter stitch section of the second tier,
just above the ruffle.

Weave in all your ends.




8



7
6





5
4



3
2






1


Collar band (knit portion) -- roughly 2 by 17
Cast on 18 sts with larger needle. Knit one row. Purl
one row.

Keep the first three and last three sts in each row in a
garter stitch selvedge (knit every row).
Begin chart. Work 15 repeats. You may need to adjust
your number based on your neck size.

Knit one row. Purl one row. Bind off all sts loosely.
Block to your neck measurements.

Collar band (sewn portion)
Fold your collar (5 x 18) in half, right sides together.
Sew long side with seam allowance. Trim seam
allowance to . Turn right side out.

Fold strap sections in half, right sides together. Sew
long side with seam allowance. Trim seam
allowance to . Turn right side out.

Tuck in the ends of the collar a little bit. Insert one end
of strap into collar and sew in place. Top stitch to other
end of collar. Insert end of other strap into collar and
sew in place.

Sew knit portion of collar to fabric. Do this by hand.
The fabric will not feed evenly if you use a machine.
Sew the tiers to the center front of your collar band.

Shetland Lace Cuffs

To make the cuffs, I measured my jabot and did a little
math -- how many stitches I cast on originally, how
wide it was gathered, what size I needed now, and so on.
If 54 sts of lace (taking out the 6 selvedge sts) makes 2
inches gathered lace and I need 7 inches of gathered
lace then I would need around 192 stitches. Right?
Wrong. I knit away on 192 stitches and it was 3 inches
too wide. What did I learn? Not only do swatches lie but
blocking lace makes for lies too.

So I guestimated. I cast on 144 stitches and knit away,
lightly gathering it on my needles to see how it would
look. It was close enough to the seven inches I needed.

I knit the cuffs as for the tiers above, knitting in pattern
for 2 repeats (instead of 4). Three repeats probably
would have been better but by then, I was tired of this
whole project. To block, I had to move the stitches to a
spare piece of yarn (I have no blocking wires) for
pinning because the cuff was too long to fit on my
needle. When the time came to switch to smaller
needles, I knit them off of the spare yarn which was
tricky but spared me the step of moving them to a larger
needle.

I did not make a wristband lace cover like the collar
because this should be tucked under the cuff of the shirt.
No one can see it. But if youd like to make one, I
suggest making it 2 inches wide so that it fits
comfortably under the shirt cuff. You dont want skin
poking out between shirt cuff and knitted cuff.

For the sewn band, cut two rectangles 5 x 9. My
finished measurements for the band were 2 x 8. It has
to be a little longer than your wrist measurement
because of the overlap for buttons.

Fold one rectangle in half and sew down one short side
and the long side with a seam allowance. Trim the
seam allowance and turn inside out. Top stitch all
around, tucking in the open end when you come to it.
Repeat for second rectangle.

Make two buttonholes on one end and sew two buttons
on the other. Sew your cuff to the wristband.


* If you need any help with these directions,
please let me know. Im easy to find on Ravelry
(JMN) and Im on all the time. I know the
directions are not as clear as they could be. I am
not really a pattern writer.

** Also, there are no pictures on here to save
you the ink. Ive got several photographs of my
finished set in my project notebook on Ravelry.
I hope this is not disappointing. If you would
like pictures (and I dont mind taking more if
needed), let me know.