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DYEI! #$ %I&'
Dyeing and printing
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.Y
!yan ujjwal
/tkarsh jaishwal
0ishal anand das
0ividha yadav
&able of content1
'r2 o2 3ontent
* Introduction
+ Dyeing processes
4achine used in dyeing process in knitted fabric
Dyeing through winch dyeing machine
Dyeing through jet dyeing machine
5 'pace dyeing in knits
- &he e6ect of temperature in dyeing of knitted fabric
7 3ommon knit dyeing faults and their remedies
8 3oncept of eco friendly dyes
9 :eferences
Dyeing of knits
In the coloring of textile goods, the nature and quality of fiber and materials in reference to the
dyes and dyestuff should be considered. Since some dyeing agents and mordents are best suited
to one fiber, other can be used equally as well with all fibers or mixtures thereof. The details of
coloring must be suited to the quality and kind of garment.
Figure: dyeing of knits
Introduction:
Manufacturing of knit goods is chea and !""# knit good items are $ery comfortable which
increase the demand of knitted underwear and outerwear garments. %s a result knitting, knit
dyeing and finishing industries are growing $ery raidly.&ets and winch dyeing machines are
generally used as exhaust equiment for rearation, dyeing and finishing of aarel knit fabrics.
'nit fabric wet rocessing is started with batching or batch rearation where fabric is weighted as
er machine caacity and the fabric is turned to inside out in case of body fabric i.e. main fabric of
garments. Interlock, rib, fleece fabrics are also turned to inside out when those are in unbalanced
structures and used as body fabric of garments. The fabrics are usually turned to kee away from
the any unacceted incident or damage on face
Figure: knits
(yeing rocesses:
'nit dyeing is a technique of dyeing the knitted fabrics. The dyeing of knitted fabrics occurs in the
exhaust method or in batch)wise rocess. *enerally all tye of single +ersey, double +ersey and
their deri$ati$es are dyed by the following rocess.
Machines used in dyeing rocess in knitted fabric:
,inch dyeing machine
&et dyeing machine
&ig dyeing machine
-addle dyeing machine
Soft flow dyeing machines
Dyeing through winch dyeing machine:
'nit goods are generally dyed in the roller iece form and slit.To cut lengthwise into stris/
lengthwise after dyeing. ,ar knits ha$e the tendency to curl at the edges, hence se$eral rolls are
tied together so they are dyed in tubular form. Forming a long chain, the number of rolls to the
chain being deendent on the weight of the fabric. ,hen dyeing of tubular fabric is carried out in
winches, air bubbles are collected inside the tube form immediately below the +ockey roll. The
bubble is continuously ushed back along the roe by the +ockey roll. The dyeing machine
emloyed consist of a tub ro$ided with a re$ol$ing winch on to. The winch is made u of wood.
The chains of cloth are assed o$er the winch and circulated through the dye liquor in the tub
below. 0sually from eight to twel$e chains are run in one machine side)by)side. %s the goods
come u from the liquor they are assed from a set of small squee1e rollers and then run on the
re$ol$ing winch. The squee1e rollers and the winch should be so set and run at such relati$e
seeds that there is as little tension on the cloth as ossible, as the tension while the cloth is
running in the dyeing oeration tends to stretch the goods out of shae and also materially reduce
their elasticity. The seed of the squee1ing rollers is somewhat high than that of the winch. The
winch is fluted so that less surface area of the fabric touches the winch and hence low tension is
created on the fabric.
The machine emloyed for the dyeing rocess is similar in e$ery resect to that emloyed for
wetting)out or scouring rocess. 0nless a number of lots to be dyed, the goods may be rinsed off
in the machine used for dyeing, by simly running off the dye liquor and refilling with fresh water.
Figure : winch dyeing machine
Dyeing through jet dyeing machine:
&et dyeing machines resemble becks in that a continuous loo of knitted fabric is circulated
through the machine. 2owe$er, the cloth transort mechanism is dramatically different in these
two tyes of machines. % high seed +et of dye liquid created by a $enture transorts the fabric
through the cloth guide tube of the +et machine. % +et machine has a cloth guide tube for each loo
of fabric being rocessed. % owerful um circulates the liquor through a heat exchanger outside
of the main $essel and back into the +et machine. The fabric tra$els at high $elocity of 3"")4""
meters er minute while it is in the cloth guide tube. The fabric lea$ing the cloth guide tube enters
a larger caacity cloth chamber and gradually ad$ances back toward the cloth guide tube.
-ressuri1ing a +et dyeing machine ro$ides for high temerature dyeing caability. 2igh
temerature +et machines are esecially suitable for delicate fabrics made of texturi1ed olyester.
Some atmosheric machines designed for dyeing temeratures u to !"" 5 also use the +et
circulation rincile.
Figure: +et dyeing machine
Sace dyeing of knitted fabric:
-olychromatic method can be used to roduce a wide $ariety of atterns in many shades on
knitted fabrics. Two or three set of +ets aly the dye liquor to the goods assing below the +ets.
The indi$idual +ets can be connected with dye liquors of different colors by means of a secial
dyestuff suly tube. % sheet called mirror is laced at an angle below the +ets. The angle is so
ad+usted that the liquid stream coming from or two series of +ets roduces changes in color attern
and mixtures. %fter alying a constant amount of liquor, which must be fixed beforehand by a
suitable choice of +et si1e, the goods are through a adder, when the final attern is obtained. The
goods are than steamed continuously, washed and dried.
6ffect of temerature on dyeing of knitted fabric:
Two fabrics are dyed % and 7 using standard and $aried temerature resecti$ely. ,hen the effect
of dyeing temerature was studied, the comarisons between samles 7 and % .as standard/ were
done. Temeratures $aried 8")9" :5, alied ultrasound frequency was ;" k21, while the quantity
of added <a5l was =" g>dm8. The results of color differences between samles 7 and % resent
that the samle 7 is darker at temeratures of dyeing from 8" :5 to 9" :5 yellow and more redder
at dyeing temerature 9" :5. The same samle is greener and bluer when the temeratures of
dyeing are ;" :5 and 8" :5. ,hen the effect of dyeing temerature was studied, the comarisons
between samles ( and % .as standard/ were done. Temeratures $aried from =" to ;" :5,
alied ultrasound frequency was ;" k21, while the quantity of added <a5l was =" g>dm8.
?egarding the results of color differences between samles ( and % .not shown/, it aears that
the samle ( is darker at temerature of dyeing from =" :5 to ;" :5@ redder and more yellow .".4/
at dyeing temerature ;" :5. The same samle is greener and bluer when the temeratures of
dyeing are =" :5 and 9" :5. Total color differences satisfy two allowed criteria MAS and 5M5 for
alied temerature 9" :5.
Fault and their remedies:
'nit fabric dyeing rocess is different from yarn dyeing or wo$en dyeing rocess. (uring dyeing@
some dyeing faults can be occurred due to wrong oerating system. 7ut it can be o$ercome by
alying some techniques.
5ommon knit fabric dyeing faults and their way of remedies are gi$en below.
5rack roes and crease marks:
causes:
oor oening of the fabric roe
shock cooling of synthetic material
high fabric seed
?emedies
-re)heat setting.
Bower rate of rising and cooling the temerature.
?educing the machine load.
2igher liquor ratio.
-in hole:
5auses
(ue to the resence of FeC and 5uC ions in water.
%cti$e er)oxide that is used during bleaching.
?emedies
,ater hardness should be in limit.
Strong sequestering agent should be used.
-er)oxide killing should be done roerly
Fabric distortion and increase in width :
5auses
Too high material seed.
Bow liquor ratio.
?emedies
7y decreasing both no11le ressure and winch seed.
7y using high liquor ratio.
-illing :
5auses
To high mechanical stress on the surface of the fabric.
6xcess seed during rocessing.
6xcess foam formation in the dye bath.
?emedies
7y use of a suitable chemical lubricant.
7y using antifoaming agent.
7y turn>re$ersing the fabric before dyeing.
?unning roblems:
Ballooning and intensive foaming

5auses
Dccurs in woolen or worsted fabrics which are too densely sewn.
-uming a mixture of air and water.
?emedies
7y cutting a $ertical slit of !")!9 cm in length for escaing the air.
7y using antifoaming agents.
5oncet of eco friendly dyes:
The resent scenario is focused more towards the utili1ation of the $ast di$ersity of natural
resources of colour igments for their use in food materials, harmaceuticals and textiles, in lace
of their synthetic counterarts. This trend is aimed at safeguarding human health as well as
rotecting and rolonging life on earth. (etailed scientific studies with natural dyes ha$e
established that in most cases their roerties are comarable to those of synthetic dyes.
Therefore, if natural dyes ha$e to be commerciali1ed, they need to conform to the same stringent
standards of erformance that are alied to synthetic dyes. It thus follows that much more
research and de$elomental effort needs to go in this area. The traditional ractices may ha$e to
be substituted by modern, more scientific ractices in order to o$ercome some of the so)called
disad$antages of this dye
Figure: natural dyes
2
?eferences:
Textile -rearation and (yeing 7y %. '. ?oy 5houdhury
-osseltEs Textile &ournal the 7leaching, (yeing and Finishing of 'nit *oods.
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