EASY BED LEVELLING & NOZZLE GAP TUNING

by Boschkabouter
14-03-2014
A lot of Leapfrog Creatr users are confronted with recurring bed
levelling and nozzle height related problems, so that an
improvement of the Creatrs bed levelling system would be very
welcome.
There is an easy way to solve this by Leapfrog by applying in the
aluminium suspension plate of build platform threaded in-press
or clinching studs with knurled adjustment nuts. Meanwhile we
dont have to be annoyed because;
I have made a mod which simulates in-press or clinching studs with
knurled http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/886280/TOOLCRAFT-
Kartelmoeren-DIN-467-DIN-467-Verzinkt-staal-M5-10-stuks
nuts which makes bed levelling more precise and very easy. (see
photo). But therefore you have to do first some preparations by
modding you Creatr. (you can always bring it back in its original status
in case of warranty)

ASSUMPTIONS and PREPARATIONS

First, I assumed that the vertical aluminium corner extrusions are all equal, because they are
shortened by industrial manufacturing.
Second that the top sheet of the enclosure is tight mounted on the vertical aluminium corner
extrusions and so can be used as a reference plane.
Take a feel gauge and measured the gap distances
between the four y-axis brackets and the top sheet
reference plane.
Then adjust the gap between the top sheet and the
y-axis bracket using the feeler gauge taking the
lowest of the four previous measurements. Start
with adjusting the left or right Y axis front and back
brackets first, and tighten the bolts. Then adjust
the other y axis by tightening the rear bracket and
hand tighten the front bracket. Next is to move the x-axis to the front position so the Y-axis can settle
itself and then tighten the front bracket. The tighten all the bracket bolts firmly. Both y-axis should
now be parallel to the top reference sheet as well to each other. And subsequently also the x-axis.
Then remove the four adjustment inbus screws of the heated bed platform and replaced them with a
kind of studs.

MAKING & APPLYING THE STUDS
The studs are made of M5 threaded rod ( because there are no full threaded M5 inbus bolts
available). At one end I screwed a M5 retaining nut and
smashed it with a hammer to fix it firmly, so it became a
kind of bolt head. Then I screwed the studs from below
through the M5 theaded holes in the aluminium heated
bed support plate, and mount another M5 retaining nut
firmly at the top side of the support plate. So the studs
where tight fixed and perpendicular to the suspension
plate.
Then put the compression springs back on the studs. The
springs centre themselves on the M5 bold top side of retaining M5 nuts. Above the springs I used
some large M6 washers to support the reflective radiator foil (for speeding up heating).


REMOUNTING THE HEATED GLASS SHEET.
Then mount the heated bed glass over the studs and the reflective radiator foil, and put on each stud
two knurled nuts. One for adjustment and one for retaining.
Because I use replaceable 4mm safety glass sheets with 350x450 mm size as build platform I put two
3 mm thick rings, which also keep the interchangeable glass build platform in place, together with
bull dog clamps. I can slide-in the replaceable build platforms over the leapfrog heated glass sheet,
between the rings under the knurled nuts.
NOTICE THAT THE PLATFORM IS NOW IN A HIGHER Z-POSITION, SO YOU HAVE TO ADJUST YOUR Z-
END STOP LOWER.
Z-ACHSE JUSTAGE BOX FUR OPTISCHE SENSOR
For the Z-axis endstop I used a modification of the Andreas Neufeld Z-achse Justage box fur optische
Sensor. http://www.3dprinterstore24.de/Downloads/Download-Z-Achse-Justagebox-fuer-optischen-
Sensor-z-B-Leapfrog-CREATR::15.html
Andreas uses a retraction spring, while in my mod
I use an elastic o-ring to keep the tension on the
sensor. You can find information and downloads
about my version the Z-justage box in the topic
Tips and best practices I created at:
https://www.lpfrg.com/support/forums/topic/tip
s-trics-best-practices
With the -Z-achse Justage box fur optische
Sensor- its easy to adjust exactly the desired space between the nozzle and the build platform by
turning the Z-sensor adjustment screw.
ALWAYS BE CAREFULL WHEN MOUNTING THE JUSTAGE BOX AND TESTING IT FIRST MANUALLY
BEFORE TESTING IT WITH SMALL STEPS USING THE CONTROL BUTTONS ON THE USER INTERFACE
CONTROL PANEL.
UNCAREFULL USE CAN DAMAGE YOU GLASS PLATE AND NOZZLE!!!
ALWAYS CHECK THAT THE TINY LIGHT OF THE OPTICAL SENSOR GOES ON WHEN THE PLATFORM
REACHES ITS HOME POSITION.
LEVELING
Now with the Z-axis justage box and the build platform suspension modification, its now easy to
level the build platform (no tools needed, just your fingers), parallel to the Y and X-axis and to adjust
the exact desired distance between nozzle and the build platform.
Bring the build platform by moving the triangle belt to a Z-position where it is slightly press down by
the nozzle, and whereby the nozzle is in the middle of the build platform. Then adjust the (lowest)
knurled nuts by turning them with a single gentle swing down till are stopped turning by friction of
the build platform . Now the build platform is in a proper position to level the platform more precise.
Move the nozzle manually to the position left back, and adjust the knurled nut by swinging it around.
Do the same on position front right and also on right back.
The platform should be almost level. Anyway the backside is parallel level. Now go to the front
middle with the nozzle and adjust in this middle position both front knurled nuts by swinging around.
Slide the carriage to left and right an adjust knurled nuts again by swinging them around. The
platform should be perfectly level now. Use the second set of knurling nuts to retain the first set
without moving them.
NOZZLE SPACE ADJUSTMENT

The nozzle is now still slightly pressing down the build platform. By lowering the z-sensor with the z-
axis justage box screw, you will be able to fine tune the distance between the nozzle and the build
platform. Is very handy when you use different kind of interchangeable build platforms with different
thickness. Notice that after Z-axis adjusting, move the platform a few mm down, and go Z-homing
step by step the first time!
X-Y PERPENDICULARLY

To make that X-and Y axis are perpendicular to each other to avoid skewing, you can take two
identical industrial manufactured products (equal size dimensions) i.e an L-square or a product in a
perpendicular long block shape like a plastic injection moulded (orange)box.



EXPERIENCES

I am using this mod now for about two weeks and I am very charmed by it results and also with the
easiness of subsequently fine tuning when using various thickness build platforms. While in previous
times I used a thick ABS slurry layer to get proper adhesion, now,
related to the footprint of the printed object, I only need a few
puffs of a perfume vaporizer spayed out the ABS juice as a thin
film, and only a gentle hammer smack is needed to loosen the
print. Because the nozzle distance can be easily adjusted, the first
layer extrusion can be squeezed against the build platform. Its also
noticeable that if using an interchangeable glass platform to print
on the concave side of the glass sheet (glass sheets arent flat). You
can check this with a ruler.


Happy printing
Paulus de Boschkabouter