The open-door policy: experimentation with dress

The death of Mao Zedong on 9 September 1976 ended an era and led to the arrest of Mao's
wife Jiang Qing and other members of the Gang of Four who rose to prominence during the
Cultural Revolution.
The open-door policy and economic reforms which followed, created an environment in
which people were receptive to the outside world and eager to make up for the 10 lost
years of the Cultural Revolution. Dress was one of the first areas where attitudes were
relaxed. Women began to wear coloured and patterned clothing, and accessories were
emblazoned with English words such as 'happy' or 'beautiful' rather than 'serve the people'.
Clothing which appeared foreign was perceived as modern.
The 1980s was a period of unprecedented experimentation with dress style. China's first
fashion magazine Shizhuang (Fashion) was published in Peking in 1979. Since then such
magazines have become popular reflecting the huge interest in personal appearance, beauty
and consumer culture.
Contemporary fashion: mainland China
The contemporary fashion world in mainland China is vast, complex and there are many
players. Most garments are produced by large state-run corporations and joint-venture
companies established with overseas capital. Much design is therefore anonymous.
However, a growing number of designers have established their own labels and work
independently. Many of them are young and entrepreneurial with a clearly identified market.
They sell direct to customers or through up-market department stores.
Government agencies have played an active role in developing China's fashion industry. The
China Garment Designers' Association has promoted the work of young designers since its
inception in 1993. It organises fashion events such as the Golden Scissors Award for
functional wear and the Japanese-sponsored Brother Cup for fashion designers under 35
which emphasises creativity over functionality. In 1996 the China Famous Brand Name
Development Company was established to spearhead China's ambitions to create ten world-
famous fashion labels by the year 2000.
Mao's new suit
Mao's new suit, is an Australian documentary which charts the course of Peking fashion
designers Sun Jian and Guo Pei staging a show during Shanghai's annual fashion week.
Both designers were born during the Cultural Revolution - a time when most women wore
blue and grey trouser suits. To look fashionable was a sign of spiritual corruption and
bourgeois tendencies. Today, armed with mobile phones and ambitious humour, they are a
symbol of modern China's "to get rich is glorious" generation.