Draft : Boehmeria nivea sebagai alternative bahan baku pada Industri Tekstil Introduction
Ramie, commonly known as China grass, white ramie, green ramie and rhea, is one of the group referred to as the bast fiber crops. It is a hardy perennial belonging to the Urticaceae or Nettle family, which can be harvested up to 6 times a year. It produces a large number of unbranched stems from underground rhizomes and has a crop life from 6 to 20 years. The bark contains gums and pectins causing the fibers to be useable only after chemical treatment. The true ramie or China Grass' is also known as white ramie' and is the Chinese cultivated plant. It has large heart shaped, crenate leaves covered on the underside with white hairs that give it a silvery appearance. Boehmeria nivea var. tenacissima, is known as green ramie' or rhea'. It is believed to have originated in the Malay Peninsula. It has smaller leaves which are green on the underside, and is better suited to tropical climates. Ramie is one of the oldest textile fibers. It was used in mummy cloths in Egypt during the period 5000 - 3000 BC, and has been grown in China for many centuries. The main producers of ramie today are China, Brazil, Philippines, India, South Korea and Thailand. Only a small percentage of the ramie produced is available on the international market. Japan, Germany, France and the UK are the main importers, the remaining supply is used domestically (in the country in which it is produced). Ramie fibre is very durable, is pure white in colour and has a silky luster. It is reported to have a tensile strength eight times that of cotton and seven times greater than silk. However, other reports claim that the tensile strengths of cotton, flax, hemp and ramie are similar. These discrepancies can be partly attributed to the effects of source of supply, method of processing, the test conditions, temperature and humidity, on the fiber strength. The stems of ramie grow to a height of 1 - 2.5 meters. The most suitable climate for ramie is one which is warm and humid, with an annual rainfall of at least 1000mm. Well established plants can tolerate drought and frost, but grow better without. As ramie productivity is high it can rapidly deplete the soil of nutrients.
Properties
Advantages of Ramie as a Fabric Resistant to bacteria, mildew, alkalis, rotting, light, insect attack Extremely absorbent and therefore comfortable to wear, especially during warm weather Has natural stain resisting ability with ease of stain/soil removal similar to that of linen (and this is better than cotton) Not harmed by mild acids Dyes fairly easily Good wet-fastness in laundering - though dark colors may lose their vibrancy over repeated launderings Increases in strength when wet Withstands high water temperatures during laundering Smooth lustrous appearance improves with washing Keeps its shape and does not shrink Can be bleached
Disadvantages of Ramie as a Fabric Low in elasticity Low abrasion resistance Wrinkles easily (but application of wrinkle-resistant finishes or blending with synthetic fibers can reduce the problem in woven fabrics) Stiff and brittle The fiber is high cost which reduces its competitiveness against other textile fibers - this high cost is due to high labor requirement for production, harvesting and decortication There is a need to de-gum the fiber prior to processing
Industrial Potency Apparel: dresses, suits, skirts, jackets, pants, blouses, shirts, children wear, mixed with cotton in knitted sweaters Home Fashion: curtains, draperies, upholstery, bedspreads, table linens, sheets, dish towels Sewing threads Handkerchiefs Parachute fabrics Woven fire hoses Narrow weaving Canvas Filter cloth When used in a mixture with wool, shrinkage is reported to be greatly reduced when compared with pure wool. Short waste fibers are used for the production of high quality papers, such as bank notes & cigarette papers. As ramie takes up phosphorous, it is potentially useful for cleaning up the Everglades. This region suffers from a nutrient overload from the sugar industry.
Boehmeria Nivea as Textile Material Care Recommendations for Ramie Fabrics Care procedures prescribed on the care labels of ramie products vary. Items of 100 percent ramie should not require special care. Generally, they may be laundered or dry- cleaned depending on individual dyes, finishes and design applications. High temperatures will not harm the fiber itself, making washing in hot water and ironing at high settings possible; however, color retention, shrinkage control or properties of blended fibers may dictate lower temperatures. Recent laboratory testing done has led to the conclusion that the best performance results when gentler or more special handling is used in care. For example, fabrics retained the best color and shape with the most wrinkle-free appearance when they were dry-cleaned. Machine washing in cold water on gentle cycle with line drying was better than machine washing in warm water with tumble drying on permanent press cool down cycle. Hand washing in cool water with flat drying is the most strongly recommended home care method for both knits and woven fabrics. The consumer who knows the strengths and limitations of the fiber can receive maximum service and enjoyment from ramie products. When storing ramie or ramie blends, lay them flat. Ramie fibers are brittle and tend to break. Avoid folding the garment or pressing sharp creases in woven fabrics.
Ramie's role in farming systems The following characteristics of the ramie crop would influence its suitability in Australian farming systems: it is a perennial crop with a life of 6 to 20 years, it is capable of producing high yields of biomass and if the harvesting system involves total removal of this biomass, there would be a rapid decline in soil fertility and ramie is subject to a number of pests and diseases, including nematodes.
Policy Peraturan Presiden Republik Indonesia No 28 Tahun 2008 tentang kebijakan industry nasional. mengembangkan bahan baku alternative serat alam, seperti serat rami, sutera, dan nenas.