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Draft : Boehmeria nivea sebagai alternative bahan baku pada Industri Tekstil
Introduction

Ramie, commonly known as China grass, white ramie, green ramie and rhea, is one of
the group referred to as the bast fiber crops. It is a hardy perennial belonging to the
Urticaceae or Nettle family, which can be harvested up to 6 times a year. It produces a large
number of unbranched stems from underground rhizomes and has a crop life from 6 to 20
years. The bark contains gums and pectins causing the fibers to be useable only after
chemical treatment. The true ramie or China Grass' is also known as white ramie' and is the
Chinese cultivated plant. It has large heart shaped, crenate leaves covered on the underside
with white hairs that give it a silvery appearance. Boehmeria nivea var. tenacissima, is known
as green ramie' or rhea'. It is believed to have originated in the Malay Peninsula. It has
smaller leaves which are green on the underside, and is better suited to tropical climates.
Ramie is one of the oldest textile fibers. It was used in mummy cloths in Egypt during
the period 5000 - 3000 BC, and has been grown in China for many centuries. The main
producers of ramie today are China, Brazil, Philippines, India, South Korea and Thailand.
Only a small percentage of the ramie produced is available on the international market. Japan,
Germany, France and the UK are the main importers, the remaining supply is used
domestically (in the country in which it is produced). Ramie fibre is very durable, is pure
white in colour and has a silky luster. It is reported to have a tensile strength eight times that
of cotton and seven times greater than silk. However, other reports claim that the tensile
strengths of cotton, flax, hemp and ramie are similar. These discrepancies can be partly
attributed to the effects of source of supply, method of processing, the test conditions,
temperature and humidity, on the fiber strength. The stems of ramie grow to a height of 1 -
2.5 meters. The most suitable climate for ramie is one which is warm and humid, with an
annual rainfall of at least 1000mm. Well established plants can tolerate drought and frost, but
grow better without. As ramie productivity is high it can rapidly deplete the soil of nutrients.

Properties

Advantages of Ramie as a Fabric
Resistant to bacteria, mildew, alkalis, rotting, light, insect attack
Extremely absorbent and therefore comfortable to wear, especially during warm weather
Has natural stain resisting ability with ease of stain/soil removal similar to that of linen (and
this is better than cotton)
Not harmed by mild acids
Dyes fairly easily
Good wet-fastness in laundering - though dark colors may lose their vibrancy over repeated
launderings
Increases in strength when wet
Withstands high water temperatures during laundering
Smooth lustrous appearance improves with washing
Keeps its shape and does not shrink
Can be bleached

Disadvantages of Ramie as a Fabric
Low in elasticity
Low abrasion resistance
Wrinkles easily (but application of wrinkle-resistant finishes or blending with synthetic fibers
can reduce
the problem in woven fabrics)
Stiff and brittle
The fiber is high cost which reduces its competitiveness against other textile fibers - this high
cost is due
to high labor requirement for production, harvesting and decortication
There is a need to de-gum the fiber prior to processing

Industrial Potency
Apparel: dresses, suits, skirts, jackets, pants, blouses, shirts, children wear, mixed with cotton
in knitted sweaters
Home Fashion: curtains, draperies, upholstery, bedspreads, table linens, sheets, dish towels
Sewing threads
Handkerchiefs
Parachute fabrics
Woven fire hoses
Narrow weaving
Canvas
Filter cloth
When used in a mixture with wool, shrinkage is reported to be greatly reduced when
compared with pure wool.
Short waste fibers are used for the production of high quality papers, such as bank notes &
cigarette papers.
As ramie takes up phosphorous, it is potentially useful for cleaning up the Everglades. This
region suffers from a nutrient overload from the sugar industry.

Boehmeria Nivea as Textile Material
Care Recommendations for Ramie Fabrics
Care procedures prescribed on the care labels of ramie products vary. Items of 100
percent ramie should not require special care. Generally, they may be laundered or dry-
cleaned depending on individual dyes, finishes and design applications. High temperatures
will not harm the fiber itself, making washing in hot water and ironing at high settings
possible; however, color retention, shrinkage control or properties of blended fibers may
dictate lower temperatures. Recent laboratory testing done has led to the conclusion that the
best performance results when gentler or more special handling is used in care. For example,
fabrics retained the best color and shape with the most wrinkle-free appearance when they
were dry-cleaned.
Machine washing in cold water on gentle cycle with line drying was better than
machine washing in warm water with tumble drying on permanent press cool down cycle.
Hand washing in cool water with flat drying is the most strongly recommended home care
method for both knits and woven fabrics. The consumer who knows the strengths and
limitations of the fiber can receive maximum service and enjoyment from ramie
products. When storing ramie or ramie blends, lay them flat. Ramie fibers are brittle and tend
to break. Avoid folding the garment or pressing sharp creases in woven fabrics.

Ramie's role in farming systems
The following characteristics of the ramie crop would influence its suitability in Australian
farming systems: it is a perennial crop with a life of 6 to 20 years, it is capable of producing
high yields of biomass and if the harvesting system involves total removal of this biomass,
there would be a rapid decline in soil fertility and ramie is subject to a number of pests and
diseases, including nematodes.

Policy
Peraturan Presiden Republik Indonesia No 28 Tahun 2008 tentang kebijakan industry
nasional. mengembangkan bahan baku alternative serat alam, seperti serat rami, sutera, dan
nenas.

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