Classification of Textiles ClassificationofTextiles

G.Santhana Krishnan
TrainingDivision
Th S h I di T il R h TheSouthIndiaTextileResearch
Association
Textile Textile
Textile is a process of converting fiber or Textileisaprocessofconvertingfiberor
polymerintosheet.
Earlier it was just full fill the basic needs of Earlieritwasjustfullfillthebasicneedsof
humanbeing
T f h Toprotectfromweather
Thenconvertedinto3dstructures
Nowitgoesbeyondinclothingscience
(comfort,vanity,functional) ( , y, )
Manufacturing
h
Application
technique
areas
Typeofraw
material
Finishing
Classification
ofTextiles
Finishing
Origin of Fibre OriginofFibre
Two origins Twoorigins
Naturalresources(nonThermo
ManMadefibers(thermoplastic,thermoset)
Naturalfiberstherearelimitationinproperties
andhavingmorevariations
Manmade fibers produced according to our wish Manmadefibersproducedaccordingtoourwish
Natural fibers Naturalfibers
According to the source Accordingtothesource
Plants(seeds,stem,leaf&seed)
i l ( i li ) Animal(Hair,saliva)
Mineral(basalt)
Natural Fibers and Textiles NaturalFibersandTextiles
The Bast fiber TheBast fiber

Animal Fibers AnimalFibers

Differentstagesin
thesilkmill:brushing
(drawingouttheendof ( g
thethread),extracting,
Man Made Fiber ManMadeFiber
Manmade Fibers ManmadeFibers
1 Regenerated Fibers 1.RegeneratedFibers
2.Syntheticfibers
3 i h f fib 3.Highperformancefibers
Regenerated Fibers RegeneratedFibers
High Performance Fibers HighPerformanceFibers
YARNS YARNS
CONTINUOUS
FILAMENT
SPUNSTAPLE
FLAT FIBRELENGTH
SPINNING
METHODS
YARN
CONSTRUCTION
(COMPOUND)
TEXTURED
BIOCOMPONENT
SHORTSTAPLE
LONG STAPLE
RINGSPUN
ROTOR SPUN
FOLDEDOR
DOUBLEDYARN
CABLEDYARN NOVELTYYARNS
METALLIC YARNS
BIOCOMPONENT
FILM(TAPEOR
SPLIT)
LONGSTAPLE ROTORSPUN
TWISTLESS
FANCYYARNS
METALLICYARNS
WRAPSPUN
CORESPUN
Different Spinning Systems DifferentSpinningSystems
Roving
Siro yarn
Ring Yarns RingYarns
Ring Yarns further classified as RingYarnsfurtherclassifiedas
1.Warpyarn
d i hl i d f hi h h MoreevenandHighlytwistedforhighstrength
2.Hosiearnry
Soft bulkier yarn Less twist Softbulkieryarn,Lesstwist
Non Conventional Spinning NonConventionalSpinning
Open End Rotor Spinning OpenEndRotorSpinning
Rotor
YarnPackage
Feed Roll
Transport
AirChannel
FeedRoll
Sliver
Condenser
Sliver
FeedPlate Trash
CombingRoll
Murata Air Jet Spinning MurataAirJetSpinning
b
Murata Vortex MurataVortex
Fancy yarns Fancyyarns
FabricManufacturing
Polymers
Fibers
Yarns
Woven Knitted Braided Nonwoven
Fabrics
Application
It eliminates the yarn production process and Iteliminatestheyarnproductionprocessand
makesthefabricdirectlyfromfibers.
Manufacturing Technic ManufacturingTechnic
Woven fabrics Wovenfabrics
Knittedfabrics
f b i Nonwovenfabrics
Braidedstructures
Production Rate ProductionRate
F b i d i R f f b i Fabric production
method
Rate of fabric
production
W i 1 / i Weaving 1 m/min
Knitting 2 m/min Knitting 2 m/min
Nonwoven 100 m/min Nonwoven 100 m/min
Woven Fabric WovenFabric
Knitted Fabric (weft Knitting) KnittedFabric(weftKnitting)
Warp Knitting WarpKnitting
Braided Structures BraidedStructures
Nonwoven Fabric NonwovenFabric
Th ll t t f Therearenormallytwostepsfor
makingnonwovenproducts.
1 W b f ti 1. Webformation
2. Bondingsystems
Parallellaid web from carded fibers Parallel laidwebfromcardedfibers
Cross Laid Web CrossLaidWeb
Parellel laid /cross laid web Parellel laid/crosslaidweb
Card webs are arranged one over another in a Cardwebsarearrangedoneoveranotherina
parellel manner
Strength is high in length wise direction than Strengthishighinlengthwisedirectionthan
crossdirection
Bymeansofcrosslaper,deliveryofweb
turnedtorightangle
Air laid Web AirlaidWeb
Airlaid web\ wet laid Airlaid web\ wetlaid
Opened fibers are suspended in air and Openedfibersaresuspendedinairand
depositedonaperforatedsheetordrum
Fibersdispersedinwateranddepositedona
f d f l d d i (P T b perforatedfeltanddrain(Paper,Teabag
technic)
Types of Bonding TypesofBonding
Needledfelts
Adhesives
Heatbonding
Stitchbonding
Needle Punching NeedlePunching
Needlepunching
Crosssectionofaneedlepunchedbonded
fabric.
Fibersheldtogetherbyfrictional
Contact between fibers Contactbetweenfibers
Adhesive Bonding AdhesiveBonding
The strength of fabric increased by adding Thestrengthoffabricincreasedbyadding
adhesive.Wherestrengthisnotenough
Thermal Adhessive ThermalAdhessive
Meltbondingatselectedpointstogiveextrastabilitytoaspunbonded
geotextile
SpunbondandMeltblownsystems
Stitch Bonding StitchBonding
.
Websmayalsobegivenextrastrengthbystitchingthem
through with yarns. throughwithyarns.
Suchstructuresareusuallymoreflexible
Webs from filament Websfromfilament
Itispossibletotanglefilamentstogetherto p g g
formaweb.Suchwebsaremuchstronger
thanwebmadefromstaplefibres.
h h l f l ld d Thethermoplasticfilamentsareweldedto
eachothertoformastrongfabricsuitablefor
curtains & tablecloths curtains&tablecloths.
Sometimes,thefilamentsaretexturedbefore
webformation.Thisallowsgreater g
extensibilityofthefabricinuse.
Application of Textiles ApplicationofTextiles
Domestic applications Domesticapplications
Shirting
i f b i Intimatefabrics
Vanityfabrics
TechnicalTextiles
14 groups and 128 applications 14groupsand128applications
Build tech Buildtech
GEO synthetics GEOsynthetics
Geogrids reinforceslopesbeneaththewaste,walls,coversoils
abovegeomembranes;
Geonets inplanedrainage;
Geomembranes abarriertoliquids,gasesand/orvaporsand
l dfill landfillcaps;
Geocomposites forseparation,filtrationordrainage;
Geosynthetic clayliners(GCLs) aninfiltration/hydraulicbarrier;
used also for mine rehabilitation tunnels secondary containment usedalsoforminerehabilitation,tunnels,secondarycontainment
Geopipes landfillapplicationstofacilitatecollectionandrapid
drainageoftheleachate toasumpandremovalsystem;
Geotextiles filtrationpurposeorascushiontoprotectthe p p p
geomembrane frompuncture.
Marine application Marineapplication
Environmental Care EnvironmentalCare
Finishing of Fabrics FinishingofFabrics
Generalsurfacefinishes(mechanicalfinishes, ( ,
chemicalfinishes)
FunctionalFinishes
Mechanical finishes Mechanicalfinishes
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Resistance to sunlight and UV degradation
Abrasion resistance
Reducedflammability Reduced flammability
Soil resistance and easy cleanability
Resistant to microbes and other bacteria
Creaseresistance Crease resistance
Softer handle and touch
Water proof (water proof & breathable)
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Controlledfragrancerelease
AntiBacterialfinish
camouflage
Nonsensetivity byradors
RadiationSheilding
Glow fabrics
Lotus leaf Effect LotusleafEffect
Smart Textiles SmartTextiles
Incorporationof:
Sensorsandactuators
d h d MP3,GPS,GSM,Ipod,Iphone Ipad
Energyharvestingsystems
Plasticelectronics
Markets:
Personalprotectivegarments
Medicalsystems
SportsandLeisure
Niches