How To Test The GM MAF Sensor

How to Test the GM MAF Sensor (P0100, P0101, P0102,
P0103)
July 12, 2010
Updated: August 06, 2014
Written by: Abraham Torres-Arredondo
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In this test tutorial, I'll show you how to test the mass air flow sensor to see if its BAD (and lighting up
the check engine light) or not. This MAF test is done in 3 easy steps.
All you'll need, to test the MAF sensor (with this tutorial) is a multimeter that can read Hertz frequency
(if you don't have one... I've made a recommendation on where you can buy a reasonably priced one
below).
In case this isn't the MAF sensor article you're needing, there are several more I've written and you
can find some of them here:
How to Test the GM mass air flow sensor (Early Type): Buick, Chevy, Olds, Pontiac
3.1L, 3.4L, 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L V6 Engines (1996-2005)
How to Test the GM MAF Sensor: Buick, Chevy, Olds, Pontiac 3.8L V6 Engines
(1996-2005)
How to Test the GM Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L, and 8.1L V8
Engines (1999-2010)
How to Test the MAF Sensor on 3.1L, 3.3L, and 3.8L Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac
(1988-1996)
Symptoms of a BAD GM MAF Sensor
The most obvious one is that the CHECK ENGINE light (CEL) will be on on your instrument cluster
and driving you nuts. Here are a couple of others:
1. A MAF sensor diagnostic trouble code (DTC) stored in your vehicle computer's
memory.
P0100: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Malfunction.
P0101: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
Problem.
P0102: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low Input.
P0103: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit High Input.
2. Lean and/or Rich Diagnostic Trouble code(s).
P0171: System Too Lean (Bank 1).
P0172: System Too Rich (Bank 1).
P0174: System Too Lean (Bank 2).
P0175: System Too Rich (Bank 2).
3. Fuel Trim diagnostic trouble code(s).
4. No Power when you accelerate the car or truck.
5. Black smoke coming from the tail-pipe.
6. Your car or truck or SUV may idle rough and stall.
What Tools Do I need?
A Scan Tool is one of those MUST have tools to be able check and diagnose today's modern cars
and trucks, but for the tests in this article you don't need one.
This are the tools you need or may need:
1. Multimeter
A digital one that can read Hertz frequency is a must have tool to test
the MAF sensor on your vehicle.
If you need to buy one or are looking to upgrade, check out my
recommendations here: Buying a Digital Multimeter for Automotive
Diagnostic Testing.
2. Wire Piercing Probe
Although not an absolute must, this tool is a time saver of the first
order. To see what this tool looks like, click here: Wire Piercing Probe.
You'll also need basic hand tools to remove the Ignition Module (if it tests BAD that is), like a ratchet
wrench, sockets, etc.
Circuit Descriptions of
the MAF Sensor Connector

The MAF sensor on your Express Van (or Savana Van) has 5 wires coming out of the connector.
Each wire (circuit) has a specific job to do and below you'll find the description. Each of the 3 Tests,
that make up this article, will use these circuit descriptions:
Circuit labeled A:
o Yellow wire. MAF Sensor Signal
Circuit labeled B:
o Pink w/ Black stripe wire. Ignition voltage (10 to 12 Volts DC).
Circuit labeled C:
o Black w/ White stripe wire. Ground Circuit.
Circuit labeled D:
o Tan wire. Air Temperature Sensor Circuit
Circuit labeled E:
o Tan w/ Black stripe wire. Air Temperature Sensor Circuit (low
reference = ground).
Basic Working
Theory of the GM MAF Sensor
The Fuel Injection Computer needs to know the amount of air the engine is breathing to inject the
correct amount of fuel (among several things) and keep your GM vehicle idling, running smooth,
accelerating, polluting less, etc. For this, the PCM relies on the mass air flow sensor, among several
of the sensors that monitor the engine and transmission.
The MAF sensor's job is to measure the amount of air the engine is breathing at any given RPM. It
then converts this measurement into a Hertz frequency reading (as measured by a digital multimeter
that can read Hz Frequency) and shoots it to the PCM. Here's what it looks like on a digital
multimeter:
At an idle of about 680 RPM's, the MAF sensor outputs about 3.2 K Hertz.
o Let me emphasize the words outputs about... because every vehicle
will output a slightly different value depending on several conditions
like: engine temperature, ambient air temperature, etc.
At about at 1500 RPM;s the MAF signal output is about 4.2 K Hz.
At 2500 RPM's it hovers around 5.2 K Hz.
As you can see, the more air the engine breathes (or the higher the RPM's) the higher the MAF
output signal becomes, and of course the less air the engine breathes, the lower the reading on your
digital multimeter.
Now, in testing the MAF sensor, you won't be looking for a specific Hertz (Hz) number at a specific
RPM... but for crazy fluctuations in the signal that don't correspond to the amount of air entering the
engine or NO SIGNAL AT ALL. OK, crash course is over, let's start testing.
TEST 1: Testing the Power Circuit for 12 Volts

The first thing we need to do, to get this MAF sensor diagnostic underway, is to make sure it's getting
power.
Power comes in the form of 12 Volts DC with the Key On Engine Off (and engine running of course)
and is fed to the MAF sensor thru the Pink wire (this is the wire labeled with the letter B in the photo
next door).
You can use a 12 Volt Test Light or a multimeter to test for power, although the test steps assume
you're using a multimeter.
OK, this is what you'll need to do:
1. Set your multimeter's dial to Volts DC mode.
2. Connect the RED multimeter lead to the PINK wire identified with the letter B (see
image viewer photos) using a Wire Piercing Probe (see what one looks like, click
here: Wire Piercing Probe.
3. Connect the BLACK lead of the multimeter to a good ground point on the engine or
to the battery negative terminal.
4. Turn the key to the ON position and observe the voltage value the multimeter
registers.
5. The multimeter should register between 10 to 12 Volts DC.
Let's take a look at what your test results mean:
CASE 1: The multimeter registered 10 to 12 Volts DC. This is good and it's the correct test result.
Now you know that the mass air flow (MAF) sensor is getting juice.
The next step is to verify that it's also getting a good ground, go to TEST 2.
CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT register 10 to 12 Volts DC. This is not good. Recheck your
multimeter connections and test again...
... If you still don't see 10 to 12 Volts (on your multimeter), then this exonerates the MAF sensor as
being BAD, since without 12 Volts, the MAF sensor will not work. Repairing the cause of the missing
voltage will solve the MAF problem.
TEST 2: Testing the Ground Circuit

Now that we know that the mass air flow (MAF) sensor is getting juice, the next step is to make sure
it's getting ground.
ground is provided by the Black w/ White stripe wire and is the wire labeled with the letter C in the
photo on the right.
OK, you'll be using your multimeter (in Volts DC) to confirm this ground is working.
This is what you need to do:
1. With the multimeter still in Volts DC mode.
2. Connect the BLACK multimeter lead to the BLACK with WHITE stripe wire
identified with the letter C using an appropriate tool.
3. Connect the RED lead of the multimeter to the battery positive terminal.
4. Turn the key to the ON position and observe the voltage value the multimeter
registers.
5. The multimeter should register between 10 to 12 Volts DC.
CASE 1: The multimeter registered 10 to 12 Volts DC, then this indicates that the MAF sensor has
a good ground. The next step is to verify that the MAF sensor is creating a good MAF signal based
on the airflow the engine is breathing, go to TEST 3.
CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT register 10 to 12 Volts DC, Double check your multimeter
connections and retest...
... If your multimeter still does not show the indicated 10 to 12 Volts, then this exonerates the MAF
sensor as being BAD, since without a good ground, the MAF sensor will not work and this will light up
the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT (CEL) on your instrument cluster.
Although it's beyond the scope of this tutorial, but repairing the cause of the missing ground will solve
the mass air flow sensor problem.
TEST 3: Testing the MAF Signal Circuit

So far, in your troubleshooting tests, you've confirmed that:
The MAF sensor has Power.
The MAF sensor has Ground.
With power and ground... and air flowing thru' it, the mass air flow (MAF) sensor has to produce a
MAF signal. This MAF signal is then sent to the PCM for fuel injection calculations and the like.
In this last test, I'll show you how to test this MAF signal with your multimeter.
NOTE: To test the MAF sensor output signal, it's important that engine be at normal operating
temperature. So, if it isn't already warmed up, go ahead and start er up and let run for a few minutes.
When ready, this is what you'll do:
1. With the key in the OFF position.
2. With a wire piercing probe (or any other suitable tool) connected to the RED
multimeter lead, probe the wire identified with the letter A.
This is the Yellow wire of the MAF Connector.
3. Put the multimeter in Hertz Frequency (Hz) mode (don't have a digital multimeter
that can read Hertz frequency? Click here to see my recommendations: Buying a
Digital Multimeter for Automotive Diagnostic Testing).
4. Connect the BLACK lead to the battery (-) negative terminal.
5. Start the already warmed up engine.
6. Note the Hertz reading on your multimeter at idle. This reading may be stable (with
only small fluctuations) or unstable with very extreme fluctuations. No matter what
the instability in the reading, this will be your base reading.
7. Manually accelerate the engine from the engine compartment as you watch the
multimeter's frequency readings. The Hertz Frequency readings should increase.
8. When you let go off of the throttle and the engine returns to idle, the Hertz reading
should come down to the base Hertz reading you observed in step 6 of this test.
At an idle of about 680 RPM's, the MAF sensor outputs about 3.2 K
Hertz.
At about at 1500 RPM;s the MAF signal output is about 4.2 K Hz.
9. Repeat this as often as you need to verify that the Hertz numbers on the multimeter
rise and decrease smoothly every single time.
10. If the MAF sensor is working correctly, the readings on your multimeter will not spike
up and down crazily but will increase smoothly as you manually accelerate the
engine and decrease smoothly as you let the engine return to idle.
CASE 1: If the Hertz (Hz) signal rose smoothly and decreased smoothly as the engine was
accelerated and decelerated respectively, then this indicates that the mass air flow (MAF) sensor is
working correctly.
CASE 2: If the Hertz (Hz) signal DID NOT rise smoothly nor decreased smoothly as the engine
was accelerated and decelerated respectively, then this indicates that the mass air flow (MAF) sensor
is BAD. Replace it.
Oscilloscope Waveform of the GM MAF Sensor

If you have access to an oscilloscope, this is what the mass air flow (MAF) sensor waveform looks
like at idle.
If the MAF sensor is good then at idle and at any RPM, the waveform will stay perfectly formed. Also,
as you accelerate the engine, the wave-length will become shorter while the wave amplitude stays
the same.
Now, if the MAF sensor is bad, the waveform will have missing pieces or no waveform will be formed
at all.
How to Diagnose the MAP Sensor
Testing P0106, P0107, P0108
February 04, 2012
Updated: August 25, 2014
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In this tutorial, I'm gonna' show you the fastest and surest way to test the manifold absolute pressure
(MAP) sensor on your 3.5L or 4.2L equipped GM pickup or SUV. Not only that, the MAP sensor test
I'm gonna' show you doesn't require a scan tool (to test the manifold absolute pressure (aka MAP)
sensor).
Now, in case you're wondering how we're gonna' test the MAP sensor.... I'll show you how to test it
using a multimeter and a vacuum pump (and if you don't have a vacuum pump, you can just suck on
the MAP sensor's nipple using a vacuum hose and the good ole' lungs).
This tutorial should also help you diagnose the following trouble codes: P0106, P0107, and P0108.
Now, don't worry... this is a step-by-step test that will tell you whether you have a BAD MAP sensor or
not on your hands.
Here are the main points of this tutorial:
Symptoms of a BAD MAP Sensor.
What Tools Do I Need to Test the MAP Sensor?
What Does the MAP Sensor Do?
Circuit Descriptions of the MAP Sensor.
TEST 1: Checking the MAP Sensor Signal.
TEST 2: Checking the 5 Volt Reference Circuit.
TEST 3: Checking the Low (Ground) Reference Circuit.
Symptoms of a BAD MAP Sensor
The most obvious symptom, you'll see when the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor fails, is
the check engine light (CEL) shining nice and bright on your instrument cluster.
You'll also see one or several of the following symptoms:
1. Diagnostic Trouble Codes:
P0106: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) System Performance.
P0107: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Circuit Low Voltage.
P0108: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Circuit High Voltage.
2. BAD gas mileage.
3. Won't pass the emissions test.
What Tools Do I Need to Test the MAP Sensor?
Here's a basic list of tools you'll need:
1. A multimeter.
You'll only be using the multimeter to check voltage DC and resistance
(Ohms).
If you need to upgrade or buy a multimeter, check out my
recommendation: Buying a Digital Multimeter for Automotive
Diagnostic Testing (found at: easyautodiagnostics.com).
2. A vacuum pump.
If you don't have one and/or need to buy one, this is the one that I
recommend and you can buy it here: Mityvac MV8000 Automotive
Tune Up and Brake Bleeding Kit .
3. Wire piercing probe.
Although this tool is not an absolute must, if you do buy one, you'll
realize just how easy it makes testing the voltages inside the wires.
If you need to see what this tool looks like, you can see it here: Wire
Piercing Probe.
4. Scan tool.
You don't need one to use the info in this article... but how else are you
gonna' check for the MAP sensor codes?
Don't have one?... check out my recommendation: Abe's Scan Tool
Recommendation.
What Does the MAP Sensor Do?
The MAP sensor's job is to measure the pressure inside the intake manifold when the engine is
running... another name for this pressure is vacuum.
Vacuum is created within the intake manifold as the pistons travel downward and draw air on their
intake stroke.
The PCM (Powertrain Control Module = Fuel Injection Computer) will use the MAP sensor input,
along with the inputs of the MAF sensor and throttle position sensor (TPS) to calculate fuel injection,
ignition timing... among several things.
The MAP sensor needs three very important things to work and these are:
1. 5 Volts.
2. A ground.
3. Vacuum.
The way that we're gonna' test the MAP sensor is independent of engine vacuum. We'll supply our
own vacuum with a vacuum pump. Why? Because a few different engine conditions/malfunctions can
fool the PCM into thinking that the MAP sensor is BAD when it really isn't...
...So the surest way to make sure that the MAP sensor is OK or not, is to verify its signal with a
vacuum pump and I'll show you how to do that in this tutorial.
Circuit Descriptions of
the MAP Sensor

The MAP sensor has 3 wires coming out of its connector.
Each wire (circuit) is identified by a letter on the connector itself (if you take a close look at the
connector, you'll see the letters A, B, and C embossed on it).
Each wire (circuit) has a specific job to do and below are those job descriptions.
IMPORTANT: The color of the wires below are probably not gonna be the ones on your particular
vehicle... and this is OK. Why? Because the circuit descriptions are all the same irrespective of the
color of the wire.
MAP Sensor Sensor Circuits
Pin Wire Color Description
A Orange w/ Black stripe Ground (known as: Low Reference)
B Light Green MAP Sensor Signal
C Grey 5 Volt Reference
TEST 1: Checking the MAP Sensor Signal

Image 1 of 3
The very first thing that you and I need to do, to see if the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor
is BAD, is to check that it's producing a MAP signal that the PCM can use.
As mentioned in the previous page, the only way to be absolutely sure that the MAP sensor is BAD or
not, is to test it independent of engine vacuum.
So, you'll need a vacuum pump to do it. Now, if you don't have a vacuum pump... you can run down
to your local auto parts store and rent one (that is if you live nearby an Auto Zone or O'Reilly Auto
Parts Store).
OK, this is what we'll do:
1. Remove the MAP sensor from the intake manifold.
2. Reconnect the MAP sensor to its electrical connector.
3. Select Volts DC on your multimeter.
4. Probe the middle wire of the MAP sensor with the red multimeter lead.
This is the wire labeled with the letter B in the image viewer.
The best way to get to the Signal inside the wire is using a Wire Piercing
Probe (to see what this tool looks like, click here: Wire-Piercing
Probe).
5. Ground the black multimeter lead.
6. Now, connect your vacuum pump to the MAP sensor.
7. Turn the Key to the ON position (don't start the engine).
8. These are the DC Voltage values you should see as you apply vacuum with the
vacuum pump:
0 in Hg - 4.8V (this is no vacuum applied to the MAP sensor).
5 in Hg - 3.9V.
10 in Hg - 3.1V.
15 in Hg - 2.1V.
See photo 2 of 3 in the image viewer above to see these numbers on
the vacuum pump.
9. The idea here, is that as you apply vacuum the voltage decreases and as you
release vacuum, the voltage increases.
CASE 1: The voltage decreased as you applied vacuum- This tells you that the MAP sensor is OK
and not the true cause of the MAP sensor codes.
This also confirms that the MAP sensor is getting power (5 Volts) on wire C and ground on wire A.
CASE 2: The voltage DID NOT decrease as you applied vacuum- This usually means that the
MAP sensor is BAD... but we'll need to make sure that the MAP sensor is getting both power and
ground.
For this test, go to TEST 2.
TEST 2: Checking the 5 Volt Reference Circuit

So far, you've confirmed (in TEST 1), that the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor is NOT
producing a signal.
The next step, before condemning the MAP sensor as BAD, is to make sure that it's getting both
power and ground.
In this test step, we'll check that it's getting power (which comes in the form of 5 Volts) on circuit
(wire) C.
One last thing, this voltage comes directly from the PCM, so be careful and don't intentionally or
accidentally short this wire to battery voltage.
This is what you'll need to do:
1. Disconnect the MAP sensor from its connector.
2. Place your multimeter in Volts DC mode.
3. With the red multimeter lead, probe the wire labeled with the letter C.
Avoid probing the front of the connector... to avoid damaging the female
metal terminal.
The best way to get to the signal inside the wire is using a Wire Piercing
Probe).
4. Ground the black multimeter lead.
5. Turn the Key to the ON position (but don't start the engine).
6. If all is OK, your multimeter should read 4.5 to 5 Volts DC.
Let's take a look at your test results:
CASE 1: 4.5 to 5 Volts are present in the C circuit wire- So far so good, since this means that the
PCM is supplying power to the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor.
The next step is to make sure that the PCM is grounding circuit A. For this test, go to TEST 3.
CASE 2: 4.5 to 5 Volts ARE NOT present in the C circuit wire- Recheck your multimeter
... If after checking all of your multimeter connections and making sure the Key is in the ON position
AND your multimeter does not register the 4.5 to 5 Volts DC, then you've found the reason for the
MAP sensor code/failure.
Without power in this circuit, the MAP sensor will not work. Now, it's beyond the scope of this article
to test for this missing voltage, but the most likely cause will be an open short between the PCM
connector and the MAP sensor connector.
TEST 3: Checking the
Low (Ground) Reference Circuit

So far, you've confirmed that the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor is NOT producing a signal
(TEST 1).
You've also checked and verified that the MAP sensor is getting power in the form of 5 Volts (TEST
2).
The next step and the purpose of this test step, is to make sure that the manifold absolute pressure
(MAP) sensor is getting ground on the wire identified with the letter A in the image viewer.
IMPORTANT: The PCM is the one that provides this ground internally, so be careful and don't
intentionally or accidentally short this wire to battery voltage or you'll fry the PCM.
This is what you'll need to do:
1. With the MAP sensor disconnected from its connector.
2. Place your multimeter in Volts DC mode.
3. With the black multimeter lead, probe the wire labeled with the letter A.
Avoid probing the front of the connector... to avoid damaging the female
metal terminal.
The best way to get to the signal inside the wire is using a Wire Piercing
Probe).
4. Connect the red multimeter lead directly to the battery (+) positive terminal.
5. Turn the Key to the ON position (but don't start the engine).
6. If all is OK, your multimeter should read 10 to 12 Volts DC.
Let's take a look at your test results:
CASE 1: Battery voltage registered in the A circuit wire- So far so good, since this means that the
PCM is supplying power to the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor.
This confirms that the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor is BAD and needs to be replaced.
Why? Well, because so far you have confirmed that:
1. The MAP sensor is not producing a signal when vacuum is applied to it (TEST 1).
2. The MAP sensor is getting its 5 Volt Reference voltage (TEST 2).
3. In this test step, you've confirmed that the MAP sensor is getting ground.
Taking all of these 3 test results... you can conclude with confidence that you need to replace the
MAP sensor with a new one.
CASE 2: Battery voltage DID NOT register in the A circuit wire- Recheck your multimeter
... If after checking all of your multimeter connections and making sure the Key is in the ON position
AND your multimeter does not register the 10 to 12 Volts DC, then you've found the reason for the
MAP sensor code/failure.
Without ground in this circuit, the MAP sensor will not work. Now, it's beyond the scope of this article
to test for this missing voltage, but the most likely cause will be an open short between the PCM
connector and the MAP sensor connector.
MAP Sensor Test Summary
Troubleshooting DTC P0106, P107, P108 is not that hard to do. I know that this article doesn't cover
all of the possible failures associated with this diagnostic trouble code... so if you would like to add
your two cents and/or want to share your own diagnostic and repair experience with the rest of us,
you can use the contact form below:
How to Test the Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor
(GM 3.5L)
January 29, 2012
Updated: June 14, 2014
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As you might already be aware (and if you're not, well that's OK, too)... the intake air temperature
(IAT) sensor is part of the mass air flow (MAF) sensor.
The MAF sensor has a total of 5 wires. Three of them are dedicated to the MAF part and the other 2
are dedicated to the IAT Sensor part.
In this How to Test tutorial, I'm gonna' show you the easiest way to test the intake air temperature
(IAT) sensor.
Here are the main subheadings of this article at a quick glance:
Symptoms of a BAD IAT Sensor.
What Tools Do I Need to Test the IAT Sensor?
What Does the IAT Sensor Do?.
TEST 1: Checking the Intake Air Temperature Value.
TEST 2: IAT Sensor Circuit High Voltage.
TEST 3: IAT Sensor Circuit Low Voltage.
TEST 4: Unplugging the IAT Sensor.
TEST 5: Jumpering the IAT Sensor Circuits.
TEST 6: IAT Sensor Resistance Test (P0112).
TEST 7: IAT Sensor Resistance Test (P0113).
TEST 8: 5 Volt Reference Circuit.
Intake Air Temp (IAT) Temperature/Resistance Chart.
Symptoms of a BAD IAT Sensor
The very first thing you'll notice when the IAT Sensor goes BAD inside the MAF Sensor is the check
engine light (CEL) shining nice and bright to let you know that there's a problem and that there's a
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) stored in the PCM memory.
Here are some of the specific symptoms you'll see/have:
P0112: Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage.
When your scan tool reports this DTC, the IAT sensor is
reporting a temperature of 300 F (149 C).
P0113: Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit High Voltage.
When your scan tool reports this DTC, the IAT sensor is
reporting a temperature of -38 F (-39 C).
2. BAD Gas Mileage.
3. Black smoke coming out of the tailpipe.
What Tools Do I Need to Test the IAT Sensor?
1. A Multimeter.
If you need to upgrade or buy a multimeter, check out my
recommendation: Abe's Multimeter Recommendation (found at:
easyautodiagnostics.com).
2. Scan Tool.
Don't have one?... check out my recommendation: Abe's Scan Tool
Recommendation.
3. Wire Piercing Probe.
Piercing Probe.
What Does the IAT Sensor Do?

In a nutshell, the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor helps the PCM (Powertrain Control Module =
Fuel Injection Computer) make a correct measurement of the air mass that enters the Engine by
providing a temperature reading (measurement) of that air.
To get into a little more detail: the PCM needs to know two very important things (among several) to
calculate the correct amount of fuel to inject for the amount of air the engine is breathing.
These two things are:
1. Temperature of the incoming air.
2. The flow rate of the air the engine is breathing.
The reason that the PCM needs to know the temperature of the air is because air temperature has a
direct effect on air density... and since the MAF Sensor can only measure the flow rate of air passing
thru' it, the intake air temperature sensor helps the PCM to further ascertain the precise amount of air
entering the engine.
This in turn helps the PCM maximize everything from fuel consumption to performance.
OK, these are the circuit descriptions of the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor and the Intake Air
Temperature (IAT) Sensor:
MAF Sensor Connector Pin Out
A Yellow MAF Sensor Signal Output
B Black w/ White stripe Chassis Ground
C Pink 12 V. Ignition Fused Feed
D Tan Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor 5 Volts
E Black Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor Ground
How to Test the Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor
(GM 3.5L)
January 29, 2012
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TEST 1: Checking the Intake Air Temperature Value

Image 1 of 2
The very first thing that you and I need to do, before anything else... is to hook up a Scan Tool to your
vehicle's diagnostic connector and check what the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor is reporting to
the PCM (Powertrain Control Module = Fuel Injection Computer).
This of course requires a Scan Tool that can read Live Data. This scan tool can be a Generic Scan
Tool... since you don't need the GM factory scan tool or an expensive professional technician level
scan tool.
If you don't have a scan tool and you need to buy one, check out my Actron CP9580 Scan Tool
Review.
OK, this is what you need to do:
1. Connect your scan tool to your pickup or car.
2. Once the scan tool has powered up, go to its Live Data mode.
3. Scroll down to the PID labeled IAT (F)
In case you're wondering, PID stands for: Parameter ID (ID =
Identification).
4. The scan tool should register a temperature that should be within 10 F of ambient
temperature (if all is normal)
So let's say that it's 50 F outside, then the IAT Sensor PID should
register something between 40 to 60 F.
5. Now, since you're here because you have an IAT Sensor Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC), more than likely you'll see one of the following:
- 30 to -40 F (that's negative 30 to 40 F).
OR 300 F.
Let's interpret your test results:
CASE 1: Your scan tool shows a -30 to -40 F reading- This tells you that you definitely have a
problem with the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor or its circuits.
This temperature reading also confirms that the diagnostic trouble code P0113 (IAT Sensor Circuit
High Voltage) that you retrieved from the PCM's memory is right on the money.
The most likely cause will be that the circuit is open somewhere inside the MAF Sensor (remember
the IAT sensor is part of the MAF sensor assembly).
To be a bit more specific, by open I mean that somewhere in the two wires or the IAT Sensor,
there's a break in the wire or that the IAT sensor is fried.
We'll find out in the next couple of tests. Go to TEST 2.
CASE 2: Your scan tool shows a 300+ F reading- This tells you that you definitely have a problem
with the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor or its circuits.
This temperature reading also confirms that the diagnostic trouble code P0112 (IAT Sensor Circuit
Low Voltage) that you retrieved from the PCM's memory is right on the money.
To further your diagnostic of the IAT Sensor, go to TEST 3.
CASE 3: Your scan tool shows a temperature reading that's 10 F of ambient temperature-
This tells you that at the moment the IAT Sensor and its circuits are OK.
But, since you still have a DTC P0112 or P0113 registered on your PCM's memory... I recommend
clearing the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) and road testing your vehicle to see if the code comes
back.
If it does... repeat this test once more.
TEST 2: IAT Sensor Circuit High Voltage

Image 1 of 2
You've reached this test step 'cause a Diagnostic Trouble Code P0113 (IAT Sensor Circuit High
Voltage) registered on your scan tool.
Also in TEST 1, you confirmed that the Scan Tool is reading an intake air temperature (IAT) of -30 to
-40 F.
In this test step, we're gonna' further troubleshoot this problem. The two most likely causes (of this
code and the temperature reading) will be:
A BAD MAF sensor connector.
Or a BAD intake air temperature (IAT) sensor.
1. Connect your scan tool and get to its Live Data mode.
2. Scroll down to the PID for the IAT Sensor.
-30 to -40 F temperature reading should still be present.
3. Now, have a helper (or yourself) gently wiggle the MAF sensor connector as you
keep your eyeballs on the IAT Sensor PID on your scan tool.
4. If the MAF sensor connector is BAD, you'll see the IAT sensor reading go from -30
to -40 F to a normal temperature.
By a normal temperature I mean something that resembles the
temperature of the outside air of the area you're in.
CASE 1: Wiggling the MAF connector caused the temperature to change- This tells you that you
that the connector is BAD and needs to be replaced.
Gently wiggling the MAF sensor connector should have no effect on the IAT sensor reading displayed
on the scan tool... so if it does... you have found the problem.
CASE 2: Wiggling the MAF connector DID NOT cause the temperature to change- This tells you
that the MAF sensor connector is OK.
Since your scan tool is still reading a -30 to -40 F IAT sensor reading, the next step is to make the
PCM believe that the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor is sending it a 300 F reading.
TEST 3: IAT Sensor Circuit Low Voltage

Image 1 of 2
You've been directed here from TEST 1 because your scan tool has confirmed that the IAT sensor is
reading an air temperature of 300 F.
You have also retrieved a P0112 Diagnostic Trouble Code (IAT Sensor Circuit Low Voltage) from the
PCM's memory.
In this test step, we're gonna' further troubleshoot this problem. The two most likely causes (of this
code and the temperature reading) will be:
The IAT sensor wires have shorted together.
Or a BAD intake air temperature (IAT) sensor.
1. Connect your scan tool and get to its Live Data mode.
2. Scroll down to the PID for the IAT Sensor.
300 F temperature reading should still be present.
3. Now, remove the black plastic loom from the MAF sensor wires (about 6 inches from
the connector).
4. Remove any black electrical tape that may be wrapped around the wires.
What you're looking for, as you remove this black electrical tape is to
see if the wires are shorted together.
5. If the IAT sensor wires are shorted together you'll notice that:
The insulation has peeled of exposing the copper inside the wires.
At certain points, the copper wires are (or were) touching each other.
NOTE: the IAT sensor wires are the one labeled with the letters D and E
in the image viewer.
CASE 1: The IAT sensor wires were shorted together- This tells you that you that the connector is
BAD and needs to be replaced.
You can verify that this is the repair solution by separating the wires that are shorted together and
then checking the intake air temperature PID (on your scan tool) to see if the temperature has gone
from 300 F to a temperature that is 10 F of ambient temperature.
CASE 2: The IAT sensor wires WERE NOT shorted together- This tells you that the MAF sensor
connector is OK.
The next step is to unplug the IAT sensor from its connector and see if the temperature reading on
your scan tool changess to -30 to -40 F. For this test, go to TEST 4.
TEST 4: Unplugging the IAT Sensor

Image 1 of 2
If you've reached this test, you have confirmed that your the IAT sensor wires are not shorted
together in TEST 3...
...and that your scan tool is still showing a 300 F intake air temperature sensor reading.
There are two things that need to be done, before we condemn the IAT Sensor as BAD.
The first one (and the focus of this test) is to make the PCM think the IAT sensor is reading -30 F. By
making the PCM see -30 F, we'll eliminate the PCM as BAD.
The second thing is to directly check the resistance of the IAT sensor itself (with the connector
disconnected)... and we'll do this in TEST 6.
OK, here's what you'll need to do:
1. Connect your scan tool to your vehicle and:
Turn the Key On.
Go to Live Data mode.
2. Scroll down to the IAT Sensor PID.
The IAT sensor should be reading 300 F.
3. Disconnect the mass air flow (MAF) sensor from its connector.
4. Once you disconnect the MAF connector the IAT Sensor PID should read:
-30 to -40 F.
If you check for Codes, you should see a P0113: Intake Air
Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit High Voltage.
5. When done, turn the key Off and interpret your results below:
CASE 1: Your scan tool showed -30 to -40 F- This is the normal result from unplugging the IAT
Sensor (MAF connector) and tells you that the PCM is OK.
The next step is to check the resistance of the IAT sensor itself (unplugged from its connector). For
this test, go to TEST 6.
CASE 2: Your Scan Tool DID NOT show -30 to -40 F- This tells you that the there's something
wrong with the wiring harness or the PCM itself.
Now, checking the wiring between the PCM or the PCM itself is beyond the scope of this tutorial.. but
you have at least eliminated the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor inside the MAF Sensor as BAD.
Before checking anything else, I suggest that you do TEST 8.
TEST 5: Jumpering the IAT Sensor Circuits

Image 1 of 3
So far, you have done the following: confirmed that you have a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)
P0113: Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit High Voltage.
Also, you've done TEST 1, where you've confirmed that the IAT Sensor PID (on your scan tool) is
registering a temperature of -30 to -40 F.
The next step, is to use a jumper wire and jumper the two IAT sensor wires together. These two are
the ones labeled with the letters D and E of the MAF sensor connector in the image viewer.
If all is OK in the wiring and in the PCM... after jumpering these two wires together, the PCM will read
a temperature of 300 F and will set a DTC P0112: Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit Low
Voltage.
OK, here's what you'll need to do:
1. Keep your scan tool connected to your vehicle.
3. Locate the wires identified with the letter D and letter E.
Wire D is the Tan wire.
Wire E is the Black w/ White stripe wire.
4. Jumper these 2 wires together with a jumper wire.
5. Turn the key to the ON position (RUN position)
6. Let the scan tool power up and go to Live Data mode.
Scroll down to the IAT Sensor PID (see photo 3 of 3).
7. Your scan tool should now read 300 F for the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
reading.
You'll also see DTC P0112.
CASE 1: The Scan Tool registered 300 F - This test result tells you that the wiring between the
PCM and MAF sensor connector is OK and that the PCM is not fried.
The next step is to check the internal resistance of the Intake Air Temperature Sensor to see if it has
an open short.
CASE 2: The Scan Tool DID NOT register 300 F - Make sure that you're testing the correct wires,
that your connections are OK, and repeat the test.
Then this tells you that you have a problem in the wiring between the IAT Sensor and the PCM or
that the PCM is fried (although a BAD PCM is rare).
The next step for you, is to make sure that the IAT sensor is getting power and ground from its two
wires. For this test, go to TEST 8.
TEST 6: IAT Sensor Resistance Test (P0112)

Image 1 of 2
In this test step, you're gonna check the resistance of the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor with
your multimeter in Ohms mode.
This will check to see if the IAT sensor has shorted together inside the MAF Sensor and causing a
resistance between 0 and 47 Ohms.
If the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor is producing a resistance between 0 and 47 's., then the
PCM will output a temperature of 300 F and set diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0112.: Intake Air
Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage.
OK, to get this test going, this is what you need to do:
1. Disconnect the MAF sensor connector and remove the MAF Sensor.
You don't have to remove the MAF Sensor for this test, but I personally
thinks it makes it a little easier to do this test with the MAF sensor
removed.
2. On the MAF Sensor, locate the pins that correspond to the letters D and E of the
MAF connector.
3. With your multimeter in Ohms () mode:
Measure the resistance of the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor.
CASE 1: The multimeter recorded 0 to 47 Ohms- This tells you that the intake air temperature
(IAT) sensor inside the mass air flow (MAF) sensor is BAD.
Since the IAT sensor is part of the MAF Sensor... you'll need to replace the entire MAF sensor to
solve the P0112 Diagnostic Trouble Code.
CASE 2: The Multimeter DID NOT record 0 to 47 Ohms- So far so good, but you're not out of the
woods yet.
The next step is to check the resistance you're getting to the temperature versus resistance chart in
the next page.
The resistance should correspond to the outside temperature (ambient temperature) of your area. For
this info, go to: IAT Sensor Temperature/Resistance Chart.
TEST 7: IAT Sensor Resistance Test (P0113)

Image 1 of 2
In this test step, you're gonna check the resistance of the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor with
your multimeter in Ohms mode to see if the IAT Sensor is BAD.
What you're gonna' do, is to see if the IAT sensor is shorted open by doing a resistance test and
using the IAT Sensor Temperature to Resistance chart found here: IAT Sensor Temperature /
Resistance Relationship (which, by the way, is in the next page).
OK, to get this test going, this is what you need to do:
1. Disconnect the MAF sensor connector and remove the MAF Sensor.
You don't have to remove the MAF Sensor, but, it'll be easier to do this
test with the MAF sensor removed.
2. On the MAF Sensor, locate the pins that correspond to the letters D and E of the
MAF connector.
3. With your multimeter in Ohms () mode:
Measure the resistance of the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor.
4. What you're looking for, is to see if the IAT sensor records a resistance that
indicates a temperature of -30 to -40 F.
Specifically: What you're looking for, is a resistance that is at 100,700
Ohms (100.7 K Ohms) or more.
See the Temperature / Resistance Chart in the next page.
CASE 1: The multimeter recorded a resistance of 100.7 K Ohms or more- This tells you that the
intake air temperature (IAT) sensor inside the mass air flow (MAF) sensor is BAD.
Since the IAT sensor is part of the MAF Sensor... you'll need to replace the entire MAF sensor to
solve the P0113 (Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit High Voltage) Diagnostic Trouble
Code.
CASE 2: The Multimeter DID NOT record a resistance of 100.7 K Ohms- So far so good, but
you're not out of the woods yet.
What you now need to do, is to see if the IAT sensor resistance equals to the ambient (surrounding)
temperature of where you're testing your vehicle.
For example, if I'm testing my Chevy Colorado outside and it's a balmy 95 F. Then the temperature
that the IAT sensor should record (in ohms of course) should be within 10 F of 95 F. Using the
Temperature / Resistance Chart in the next page, the IAT sensor resistance should be somewhere
between 177 and 332 Ohms (.177 and .332 K Ohms).
NOTE: If the IAT sensor checks out good (according the Temperature / Resistance Chart in the next
page) The next step is to check that the IAT sensor is getting power, in the form of 5 Volts and
Ground. For this info, go to TEST 8.
TEST 8: 5 Volt Reference Circuit

Image 1 of 2
In this section, we're gonna' check the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor's 2 circuits in one test.
These two circuits are the 5 Volt Reference circuit (wire letter D) and ground circuit (wire letter E).
What we'll do is unplug the MAF Sensor and then probe these 2 wires (of the MAF sensor connector
itself) with your multimeter in Volts DC mode.
NOTE: That's right, the test has to be done with the MAF sensor disconnected and as such... here
are some important precautions to keep in mind:
Don't probe the front of the MAF sensor connector with the Multimeter Leads. This
can damage them and then you're gonna' be in a heap of trouble later when the
connector causes a false contact.
You can back probe the connector with special back probes.
Or, do what I do: use Wire Piercing Probes.
OK, safety lesson over... this what you'll need to do to get this test done:
1. Place the multimeter in Volts DC mode.
3. Locate the wires identified with the letter D and letter E.
Wire D is the Tan wire.
Wire E is the Black w/ White stripe wire.
4. Connect the RED multimeter lead to this letter D wire using an appropriate tool (like
a Wire Piercing Probe).
5. Connect the BLACK lead of the multimeter to the letter E wire.
7. Your multimeter should register 4.5 to 5 Volts DC.
CASE 1: The multimeter recorded 4.5 to 5 Volts DC- So far so good, since this test result tells you
that two very important things:
That the PCM is supplying 5 Volts on wire D.
That the PCM is supplying a ground on wire E.
NOTE: If you're coming from TEST 7 or TEST 8, then this result tells you that the most likely cause of
the DTC P0113 (Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit High Voltage) or DTC P0112 (Intake Air
Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage) is an intermittent short. Intermittent problems are the
hardest to find and resolve. I suggest erasing the DTC and road testing the vehicle to see if the DTC
P0112 or P0113 comes back and repeating the tests.
CASE 2: The Multimeter DID NOT record 4.5 to 5 Volts DC- Make sure that you're testing the
correct wires, that your connections are OK, and repeat the test.
Then there's one of two things wrong:
That the PCM (Fuel Injection Computer) IS NOT supplying 5 Volts on wire D.
That the PCM (Fuel Injection Computer) IS NOT supplying a ground on wire E.
NOTE: This test result exonerates the IAT Sensor as BAD, since without power (5 Volts) or ground,
the IAT Sensor won't work.
You'll need to troubleshoot the missing 5 Volt Reference Signal or the Ground to resolve the IAT
sensor problem and Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC).
Intake Air Temp (IAT) Temperature/Resistance Chart
Below you'll find the temperature to resistance relationship of the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor.
Temperature / Resistance
F C Ohms ()
302 F 150 C 47
284 F 140C 60
266 F 130 C 77
248 F 120 C 100
230 F 110 C 132
212 F 100 C 177
194 F 90 C 241
176 F 80 C 332
158 F 70 C 467
140 F 60 C 667
122 F 50 C 973
113 F 45 C 1,118
104 F 40 C 1,459
95 F 35 C 1,802
86 F 30 C 2,238
77 F 25 C 2,796
68 F 20 C 3,520
59 F 15 C 4,450
50 F 10 C 5,670
41 F 5 C 7,280
32 F 0 C 9,420
23 F -5 C 12,300
14 F -10 C 16,180
5 F -15 C 21,450
-4 F -20 C 28,680
-22 F -30 C 52,700
-40 F -40 C 100,700
IAT Sensor Test Summary
Testing the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor isn't hard to do. Hopefully this article was able to
help you to troubleshoot the IAT Sensor and/or Diagnostic Trouble Codes P0112 or P0113.
If you'd like to add your two cents to this article and share your own diagnostic and repair experience
with the rest of us, you can use the contact form below.
How to Test the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
(GM 3.5L)
January 23, 2012
Page 1
Page 2
Page 3

Testing to see if the MAF sensor on your 3.5L GM equipped car or pickup or SUV is BAD or not can
easily be done with a multimeter.
In this article I'll show you how to do it in a step-by-step fashion... that will either condemn the Mass
Airflow (MAF) sensor as BAD or exonerate it.
This MAF sensor is not cheap... so being able to say that it's truly BAD or not will save you some
money.
To help you navigate this article, here are its main points:
Symptoms of a BAD MAF Sensor.
What Tools Do I Need to Test the MAF Sensor?
What Does the MAF Sensor Do?
TEST 1: Checking the MAF Sensor Power Circuit.
TEST 2: Checking the MAF Sensor Ground Circuit.
TEST 3: Checking the MAF Sensor Signal.
Symptoms of a BAD MAF Sensor
When the MAF Sensor goes BAD, you'll get the Check Engine Light to shine nice and bright on your
instrument cluster.
You'll also see one or several of the following symptoms of a BAD MAF Sensor:
P0101: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor System Performance
P0102: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low Frequency.
P0103: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit High Frequency.
2. BAD Gas Mileage.
3. Rough Idle.
4. Lack of power on acceleration.
5. Black smoke coming out of the tailpipe.
It's rare for the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor to go BAD and not leave a Diagnostic Trouble Code...
but sometimes you'll get the MAF Trouble Code and the MAF is good. So, it's always a good idea to
test it.
What Tools Do I Need to Test the MAF Sensor?
1. Multimeter that can read Hertz Frequency.
If you need to upgrade or buy a multimeter that can read Hertz
Frequency, check out my recommendation: Abe's Multimeter
Recommendation (found at: easyautodiagnostics.com).
2. Wire Piercing Probe.
Piercing Probe.
A scan tool comes in handy... but you won't need it to use the testing info in this article.
What Does the MAF Sensor Do?

The MAF sensor is tasked with measuring the amount of air entering the engine at any given RPM.
The PCM (Powertrain Control Module = Fuel Injection Computer) then uses this measurement of air
flow to inject the correct amount of fuel.
To get into more specifics: The MAF Sensor informs the amount of air flow by converting the
measurement of air into a Hertz Frequency signal that increases with more air flow (as you
accelerate the Engine) or decreases as the Engine breathes less air.
This Hertz Frequency signal is sent directly to the PCM. Here s what it looks like on a Digital
Multimeter (that can read Hertz):
At an idle of about 680 RPM s, the MAF Sensor outputs about 2.2 K Hertz.
At about at 1500 RPM;s the MAF Signal output is about 3.6 K Hz.
The important thing to know, is that the more air the engine breathes (or the higher the RPM s) the
higher the MAF Hertz signal becomes, and of course the less air the engine breathes, the lower the
Hertz signal (that your digital multimeter will record).
Now, in testing the MAF Sensor, you won t be looking for a specific Hertz (Hz) number at a specific
RPM... but for crazy fluctuations in the Signal that don t correspond to the amount of air entering the
engine or NO SIGNAL AT ALL.
These are the circuit descriptions of the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
MAF Sensor Connector Pin Out
A Yellow MAF Sensor Signal Output
B Black w/ White stripe Chassis Ground
C Pink 12 V. Ignition Fused Feed
D Tan Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor
E Black Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor
TEST 1: Checking the MAF Sensor Power Circuit

Image 1 of 2
The very first thing we'll do, to get our mass air flow (MAF) sensor diagnostic on the road, is to check
that it's getting power.
In the next test (TEST 2), we'll check that the MAF sensor has a good ground.
Power comes from a fuse and in the form of 10 to 12 Volts DC.
These you can check with a 12 Volt Automotive Test Light or a Multimeter. Although the test
instructions below assume that you'll be using a multimeter.
OK, this what you'll need to do:
2. Locate the wire identified with the letter C.
This is the Pink wire.
Connect the RED multimeter lead to this Pink wire using an appropriate
tool (like a Wire Piercing Probe).
3. Ground the BLACK lead of the multimeter directly on the battery negative (-)
Terminal.
5. Your multimeter should register 10 to 12 Volts DC.
CASE 1: The multimeter recorded 10 to 12 Volts DC- So far so good, since this test result tells you
that the mass air flow (MAF) sensor is getting power.
The next step is to make sure that the MAF sensor has a good ground in the wire labeled with the
letter B. For this test, go to TEST 2.
CASE 2: The Multimeter DID NOT record 10 to 12 Volts DC- Make sure that you're testing the
correct wire, that your connections are OK, and repeat the test.
If you still don't see any voltage here, then you have found the reason why the MAF sensor is not
working and the reason for the MAF Sensor Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC).
Without power (10 to 12 Volts DC) in this wire, the MAF Sensor won't work. Replacing the fuse and/or
solving the issue causing this missing voltage will solve the MAF sensor issue on your 3.5L GM
equipped vehicle.
TEST 2: Checking the MAF Sensor Ground Circuit

Image 1 of 2
So far, you've confirmed that the mass air flow (MAF) sensor is getting power (10 to 12 Volts) in
TEST 1.
The next step is to make sure that this power has a good ground. This ground is provided by the wire
labeled with the letter B in the photo in the image viewer.
You can check this ground with a 12 Volt Automotive Test Light or a Multimeter. The test instructions
below assume that you'll be using a multimeter.
2. Locate the wire identified with the letter B.
This is the Black with White stripe wire.
Connect the BLACK multimeter lead to this Black with White stripe
wire using an appropriate tool (like a Wire Piercing Probe).
3. Connect the RED lead of the multimeter directly on the battery positive terminal.
4. Your multimeter should immediately register 10 to 12 Volts DC.
CASE 1: The multimeter recorded 10 to 12 Volts DC- This multimeter test result tells you that the
MAF sensor on your pickup or car is getting a good ground.
The next step is to make sure that the MAF sensor is working and outputting a MAF Signal on the
wire labeled with the letter A. For this test, go to TEST 3.
CASE 2: The Multimeter DID NOT record 10 to 12 Volts DC- Make sure that you're testing the
correct wire, that your connections are OK, and repeat the test.
If you still don't see any voltage here, then you now have confirmed that the MAF Sensor isn't getting
the Ground it needs to function. Repairing this ground will get the MAF Sensor back on its feet.
TEST 3: Checking the MAF Sensor Signal

Image 1 of 2
OK, now come's the part you signed up for! Let's see if the MAF Sensor is producing a MAF Signal.
For this test, you'll need a multimeter that can read Hertz Frequency... otherwise you won't be able to
test the mass air flow (MAF) sensor.
If you don't have one, and need to buy one that's inexpensive... take a look at this Hertz enabled
Multimeter I recommend here: Abe's Multimeter Recommendation (found at:
easyautodiagnostics.com).
OK, getting back to the test at hand: The wire that delivers this Hertz Frequency MAF Signal (to the
PCM) is the one labeled with the letter A in the photo in the image viewer.
This what you'll need to do:
1. Place the multimeter in Hertz Frequency mode.
2. Locate the wire identified with the letter A.
This is the Yellow wire of the MAF sensor connector.
Connect the RED multimeter lead to this Yellow wire using an
appropriate tool (like a Wire Piercing Probe).
3. Ground the BLACK lead of the multimeter directly on the battery negative (-)
Terminal.
4. Crank and start the engine.
5. If the Engine is cold, let it warm up a bit so that the idle will settle down a bit.
6. Your multimeter should register:
Around 2.2 to 2.7 K Hertz at idle.
As you accelerate the Engine, the Hertz values should increase.
o At around 1500 RPM's you should see about 3.6 to 3.7
K Hertz.
o At around 2000 RPM's you should see about 3.9 K
Hertz.
When you release the accelerator, and the Engine returns to idle, the
Hertz value should return to somewhere close to 2 K Hertz.
CASE 1: The multimeter registered the indicated Hertz values when you accelerated and
decelerated the Engine: -This tells you that the MAF Sensor is OK.
There's no need to replace the MAF Sensor, since this test confirms that it's functioning.
CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT register the indicated Hertz values when you accelerated and
decelerated the Engine: -Make sure that you're testing the correct wire, that your connections are OK,
and repeat the test.
If you still don't see the Hertz values going up when you accelerate the Engine or go down when you
decelerate the Engine, then you've got a BAD mass air flow (MAF) sensor on your hands.
Replace the MAF sensor.
MAF Test Summary
The most important thing to remember, when testing the MAF Sensor is that when it fails... it usually
fails in one of two ways:
1. It'll stop producing a Hertz signal, even tho' it's getting power and ground.
2. Or, it'll produce a signal that won't go up or down as you accelerate or decelerate
the Engine.
I'm pointing this out, because you don't need to know a precise Hertz Frequency number for a
specific RPM. I know, I know... it would be great to have a specific value to compare against... but
trust me, you don't need it.
If in TEST 3, the Hertz values went up and down... the MAF on your 3.5L equipped car or pickup is
OK.
I know that the focus of this article is pretty narrow... so if you would like to add your two cents to it,
for the benefit of anyone else that reads these pages... by all means use the contact form below and
share your diagnostic and repair experience.

How To Test The GM MAF Sensor

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