This is to certify that Arushi Srivastava and Vaishali Rai of BFT-V, National Institute Of Fashion Technology, New Delhi did their internships at Arvind Limited | Denim Division, Naroda, Ahemdabad from May 26, 2013 to June 15, 2013 towards the partial fulfillment of the program B.F.Tech (Apparel Production).
This project report has been created and compiled by them under the guidance of Ms. Girija Jha and is their authentic work.
Arushi Srivastava
Vaishali Rai
Ms. Girija Jha Mentor
Certificate of Authenticity TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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At the outset, we wish to express our gratitude to everybody who has assisted in the formulation of this report. There are many to whom expression of gratitude is inevitable, but there some special people who have to be given prominence, without whom we would not have reached the conclusion of this project so quickly and so efficiently. We are grateful to Dr. Senthil Kumar for guiding us throughout the internship. We would like to thank our Course Coordinator and mentor Ms. Girija Jha and Mr. N.A. Khan, who has always added to our buoyancy with her tremendous efforts and for her constant support. At Arvind Limited, we would like to thank the HR manager, Ms. Richa Ahuja; our industry mentor, Mr. Diwaker Tiwari, Chief Manager- Manufacturing and Mr. Mahesh Ramakrishnan, head of the Agribusiness Department. Also, we would like to express a special gratitude to the company for being excellent hosts. We take this opportunity to express our affection towards our parents for their consistent faith and support.
Arushi Srivastava Vaishali Rai
Acknowledgement TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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1. About the Company 1.1. Introduction 07 1.2. Journey 09 1.3. Company's vlslon 11 1.4. Divions 1.4.1. Denim 12 1.4.2. Woven Fabrics 13 1.4.3. Knits 16 1.4.4. Garment Export 17 1.4.5. Advanced Materials 18 1.4.6. Arvind Brands 19 1.4.7. Mega Mart Reta 20 1.4.8. The Arvind Store 21 1.5. Executive Leaders 22 1.6. Board of Directors 24 1.7. Denim Division 28 1.8. International buyers 30 1.9. Own Brands 31 2. Production Process 2.1. Process Flow Chart 32 2.2. Spinning 2.2.1. Process Flow 33 2.2.2. Blow Room 34 2.2.3. Carding 38 Contents TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
5. Project Report- 5.1. Better Cotton Initiative 87 5.1.1. Introduction 89 5.1.2. Features 90 5.1.3. The Better Cotton System 91 5.1.4. Production Principles 92 5.1.5. Criteria For Assessment 92 5.1.6. Audit Information 93 5.1.7. Products Traceability Along The Supply Chain 93 5.1.8. Support 94 5.1.9. Costs 94 5.1.10. Countries & Regions 96 5.1.11. Overview of Requirements 98 5.2. BCI at Arvind Limited 5.2.1. Introduction 101 5.2.2. Farm Projects 102 5.2.3. Contract Farming 103 5.2.4. Benefits 5.2.4.1. Economical Benefits 105 5.2.4.2. Environmental Benefits 106 5.2.4.3. Social Benefits 106 5.2.5. Quality Assessment 107 5.2.6. Results & Analysis 108 5.2.7. Conclusion 109 6. References 110 TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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Arvind Limited started with a share capital of Rs 2,525,000 ($55,000) in the year 1931. With the aim of manufacturing the high-end superfine fabrics Arvind invested in very sophisticated technology. With 52,560 ring spindles, 2552 doubling spindles and 1122 looms it was one of the few companies in those days to start along with spinning and weaving facilities in addition to full-fledged facilities for dyeing, bleaching, finishing and mercerizing. The sales in the year 1934, three years after establishment were Rs 45.76 lakh and profits were Rs 2.82 lakh. Steadily producing high quality fabrics, year after year, Arvind took its place amongst the foremost textile units in the country. ln Lhe mld 1980's Lhe LexLlle lndusLry faced anoLher ma[or crlsls. WlLh Lhe power loom churning out vast quantities of inexpensive fabric, many large composite mills lost their markets, and were on the verge of closure. Yet that period saw Arvind at its highest level of profitability. There could be no better time, concluded the Management, for a rethink on strategy. The Arvind management coined a new word for it new strategy Reno vision. It simply meant a new way of looking at issues, of seeing more than the obvious and that became the corporate philosophy. The national focus paved way for lnLernaLlonal focus and Arvlnd's markeLs shifted from domestic to global, a market that expected and accepted only quality goods. An in-depth analysis of the world textile market proved an eye opener. People the world over were shifting from synthetic to natural fabrics. Cottons were the largest growing segments. But where conventional wisdom pointed to popular priced segments, Reno vision pointed to high quality premium niches. About the Company | Introduction TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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Thus in 1987-88 Arvind entered the export market for two sections -Denim for leisure & fashion wear and high quality fabric for cotton shirting and trousers. By 1991 Arvind reached 1600 million meters of Denim per year and it was the third largest producer of Denim in the world.
In 1997 Arvind set up a state-of-the-art shirting, gabardine and knits facility, Lhe largesL of lLs klnd ln lndla, aL anLe[. WlLh Arvlnd's concern for envlronmenL a most modern effluent treatment facility with zero effluent discharge capability was also established.
Year 2005 was a watershed year for textiles. With the muliti-fiber agreement getting phased out and the disbanding of quotas, international textile trade was poised for a quantum leap. In the domestic market too, the rationalizing of the cenvat chain and the growth of the organized retail industry was likely to make textiles and apparel see an explosive growth.
Arvind has carved out an aggressive strategy to verticalize its current operations by setting up worldscale garmenting facilities and offering a one-stop shop service, by offering garment packages to its international and domestic customers. With Lee, Wrangler, Arrow and Tommy Hilfiger and its own domestic brands of Flying Machine, Newport, Excalibur and Ruf & Tuf, Arvind set its vision of becoming the largest apparel brands company in India. TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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1931 The inception of Arvind Mills Limited at the hands of three brothers - Kasturbhai, Narottambhai and Chimanbhai Lalbhai
1934 Arvind establishes itself amongst the foremost textile units in the country.
1980 Arvind records highest levels of profitability. The new strategy 'eno vlslon', points at changing the business focus from local to global, towards a high-quality premium niche market.
1987-88 Arvind enters the export market for Denims with a dual focus - Denim for leisure and Denim for fashion wear.
1991 Arvind emerges as the third largest manufacturer of denim in the world. About the Company | Journey TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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1997 lndla's largesL sLaLe-of-the-art facility for shirting, gabardine and knits is set up at Santej. 2005 Arvind creates a unique one-stop shop service on a global scale, offering garment packages to reputed national and international customers.
2007 Arvind expands its presence in the brands and retail segment by establishing MegaMart Cne of lndla's largesL value reLall chalns.
2010 Arvlnd launches 1he Arvlnd Lore, a concepL puLLlng Lhe company's besL fabrlcs, brands and bespoke styling and tailoring solutions under one roof. Arvind launches lLs flrsL ma[or eal LsLaLe pro[ecLs. Arvlnd becomes one of lndla's largesL producers of fire protection fabrics.
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The underlying theme running across the broad spectrum of all business activities at Arvind is that of enhancing lifestyles of people, across all diversities and demographics. OUR PHILOSOPHY WE BELIEVE In people and their unlimited potential; in content and in focus on problem solving; in teams for effective performance, in the power of the intellect.
WE ENDEAVOUR To select, train and coach people to obtain higher responsibilities; to nurture talent, and to build leaders for the corporations of tomorrow; to reward, celebrate and activate all intellectual business contributions.
WE DREAM Of excellence in all endeavors; of mutual benefit and prosperity; of making the world a better place to live in.
About the Company | Companys Vision We will enable people to experience a better quality of life by providing enriching and inspiring lifestyle solotloos.
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1he laLe 1980's saw Arvlnd ploneer Lhe manufacLure of denlm ln lndla. 1oday wlLh an installed capacity of over 110 million meters per annum, Arvind is a leading producer of denim worldwide. Design, Innovations and Sustainability have been Arvlnd's core compeLency and have played a key role ln Arvlnd's success. 1he use of sophisticated ultramodern technology under the guidance of world-renowned designers has enabled Arvind to deliver many firsts in the international markets. All Arvlnd's producLs are deslgned and modeled on Lhe basls of experL deslgn lnpuLs comlng from Arvlnd's deslgners based ouL of lndla, !apan, lLaly and Lhe United States. All Arvind Denim products come with the hallmark of distinctiveness and quality. Some Examples:
Shuttle looms for Selvedge denim Name selvedge and Stretch selvedge Unique Fibers like Excel, Jute, Silk, Linen Natural Indigo and Vegetable dyes Unique concept products like Indigo voiles & Handspun denim Organic, BCI & Sustainable denim
The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100, CC1, and Crganlc exchange sLandard. Arvlnd's labs are cerLlfled by nA8L (lC 17025 cerLlflcaLlon) and cusLomers llke Levl's, Lee, and Wrangler eLc. About the Company | Divisions Denim TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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Shirting & Bottom weights
Arvlnd's experLlse ln new age shlrLlng fabrlc and boLLom welghLs ls unparalleled. Arvlnd's shlrLlng fabrlcs have conslsLenLly feLched a premlum in the local and lnLernaLlonal markeLs. Arvlnd's sLaLe of Lhe arL faclllLy ls capable of produclng a total of 65 million meters per annum of Shirting and bottom weight fabrics. This capacity is set to increase reaching a total of 84 million meters by the next financial year.
We have a dedicated in-house design team constantly working on product innovation and fashion forecasts for the domestic and international markets. We also boast of the largest yardage and sampling mill in India.
Arvlnd's splnnlng seLup can produce a variety of counts for yarn types like compacLs, slubs, slgned yarn eLc. Arvlnd's weavlng capablllLles lnclude hlgh-speed Alr[eL looms and apler looms. Arvlnd's flnlshlng capablllLles lnclude conLlnuous bleaching and dying ranges, caustic mercerization, and machinery for various chemical and mechanical finishes.
Woven Fabrics TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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A sophisticated and supremely flexible package dying facility complete with vessels ranging from 1 Kg to 750 Kgs and state of the art printing facilities are also in place.
In addition to cotton we now work with a variety of fibers incuding Modal, Tencel, Excel, Viscose, Bemberg, Lycra, Silk, Linen, Polyester and Nylon. We are hosL Lo lndla's flrsL Ammonla MercerlzaLlon lanL We use patented technology to impart structural stability and superior hand-feel for the difficult-to-handle firbers like Modal, Tencel, Excel and Viscose Cver Lhe years, Arvlnd's lnhouse &u deparLmenL has sucessfully developed and perfected a number of finishes addlng value Lo Arvlnd's producLs and unlqueness Lo Arvlnd's range. CLher Chemlcal llnlshes: Wrlnkle free, repress, Lverfresh, Lasy Lo lron, Stain Repellant, Nano Care, Anti-Bacterial, Permawhite etc. Mechanlcal llnishes: Aero, Peach, Brush, Diamond Emery and Carbonium
Arvlnd's producL range ls cerLlfled by CekoLex, Arvlnd's processes are cerLlfled by GOTS for producing Organic products, we're certified producers of Lycra and 1eflon based varleLles, whlle Arvlnd's laboratory is accredited by Marks and Spencers, Next, Gap Inc., Levi's, DuPont and INVISTA.
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Voiles
Arvind has been well poised as a leading manufacturer of super fine fabrics in India. An uncontested market-leader in the manufacture of voiles, Arvind still continues to manufacture the traditional fabric for both domestic and international markets. The legacy of Arvind transcends from the olden days into a golden fuLure wlLh a producLlon capaclLy of 36 mllllon meLers per annum. Arvlnd's voiles are primarily used as blouse material and are sold in the domestic market through an impressive network of around 150 dealers, reaching over 5000 retail outlets throughout India. High quality Swiss voiles are exported to Switzerland, Sri Lanka and countries in the Middle East.
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Arvlnd's knlLs deparLmenL has an annual knlLLlng capaclLy of 3,000 Lons. 1he knlLs vertical has a fabric dyeing capacity of 5000 tons per annum and yarn dyeing capacity of 1800 tons per annum. It has the ability to process both tubular and open-width fabrics and offers specialty fin+ishes like mercerization, singeing and various forms of brushing and peaching.
Basic knits:
Jersey, Pique, Rib, and Interlock Specialty knits: Yarn-dyed, Auto stripers, Jacquards, and Stretch fabric Fibers: Cotton, Excel, Viscose, Modal, Polyester Finishes: Mercerization, Brushing, Peaching, Aero-finish.
Marks & Spencer Eddie Bauer Zara Josepha Banks
Knits TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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A world without boundaries is a promise of a global marketplace. At Arvind, our range of fabrics is universal in appeal. We aim to inspire a diverse mix of customers enriching lifestyles globally. We have successfully established ourselves as a one-stop shop for apparel solutions catering to an array of national and international clients.
Bottoms: 7.2 million pieces of jeans per annum Formal & Casual tops: 6 million pieces per annum Knit tops: 3.6 million pieces per annum Our specialized capabilities for adding value to our products include: Automated Placement Printing Machinery lndla's largesL washlng facility with Tonello machines for wet proesses Bohemian machines and Laser tech for unique and automated dry processes Skilled artisans for hand processes
Gap Inc Patagonia Tommy Hilfiger Quicksilver Brooks Brothers Silver Jeans Calvin Klein FCUK Pull & Bear Jack & Jones Energie Esprit S.Oliver Mexx Sisley Benetton Coin
Garment Exports TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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We envision world leadership in the field of advanced materials offering high-tech textile solutions for critical and composite applications. Arvind Ltd., A US $ 1.3 billion Lalbhai Group company has created the Advanced Textiles Business. Building further on our legacy of innovation, we have brought a new level of sophistication to manufacturing fabrics. Our Pro1 range of branded fabrics and composite textiles includes solutions for growing industrial sectors like Personal Protection, Industrial Filtration, Wind Energy, Defense, Auto Components, Transportation, and Housing & Infrastructure. Products in the Pro1 range include: Fire Protection Fabrics Chemically treated Flame Retardant Fabrics Proban Pyrovatex
Arvind is amongst a few organizations worldwide with a portfolio of brands that are as distinctive and relevant across diverse consumers. At Arvind, brands work across multiple channels, price points and consumer segments. The expanse of the Arvind brandscape is spread across the Indian market with around 273 standalone brand stores in addition to 975 counters selling through key accounts and multibrand outlets across India. Own Brands Licensened Brands Joint Venture Brands Mainstream Bridge to Luxury Bridge to Luxury Excalibur Gant U.S.A. 1949 Tommy Hilfiger Flying Machine Lnergle'
Popular
Premium
Premium Ruf & Tuf USPA Lee New Port University Arrow Wrangler
Izod
Popular
Cherokee
Mossimo
Arvind Brands TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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Arvind runs India's largest Value Retail Chain - Megamart. The MegaMart format offers a unique and differentiated proposition to the consumers. It offers mega brands at amazingly low prices and provides a retail experience of a high-end department store.
The Megamart stores range in size from 2000 sq ft to 65000 sq ft. The larger stores are called Big Megamart and there are 6 such stores across Bangalore, Chennai, Pune and Mumbai. The smaller formats spreads across the country are 205 in number. Megamart is expanding rapidly and is expected to be a Rs. 1000 cr chain within the next two years.
The brands sold exclusively in Megamart include:
RUGGERS - SKINN - ELITUS - DONUTS - KARIGARI - MEA CASA - AUBURN HILL - BAY ISLAND - COLT - LEISHA- EDGE
Mega Mart Retail TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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After decades of ruling the national and international fabric markets, Arvind has now introduced The Arvind Store, a unique concept in fabrics and apparel retail. The Arvind Store bring together, under one roof, the best that Arvind has to offer. lL ls a convergence of Lhree of Arvlnd's sLrongesL capablllLles, Lhe besL of fabrlcs from Arvlnd's LexLlles dlvlslon, leadlng apparel brands from Arvlnd 8rands and bespoke styling solutions based on the latest garment styles from Arvind Studios. In a world where bespoke tailoring meets cutting edge fashion, The Arvind Store will create a shopping experience to rival the best in the Indian Marketplace.
Over a 1000 different fabric styles across shirting, suiting and denim Leading apparel brands such as Arrow, US Polo & Flying Machine Arvind Denim Labs (ADL), a bespoke denim concept offering customized washed denim - a first of its kind in India and perhaps the world Arvind Studio A styling and tailoring solution to rival the best brands in the world
The Arvind Store TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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Corporate Jayesh Shah Director & CFO Anang Lalbhai MD - Arvind Products
About the Company | Executive Leaders TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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Brands & Retail J.Suresh Managing Director - Brands & Retail
Knowledge Academy Milan Shah CEO, Knowledge Academy
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MR. SANJAY S. LALBHAI (CHAIRMAN AND MANAGING DIRECTOR) Mr. Sanjay S. Lalbhai, 58 years, is the Chairman and Managing Director of the Company. He is a Science Graduate with a Master's degree in Business Management and has been associated with the Company for more than 33 years. He also holds directorships in Arvind Lifestyle Brands Limited, Arvind Retail Limited, Arvind Brands & Retail Limited, Amol Decalite Limited, Torrent Pharmaceuticals Limited, Arvind Worldwide Inc., USA, Arvind Worldwide (M) Inc., Arvind Overseas (M) Ltd. Arvind Spinning Ltd., Mauritius and Arvind Textile Mills Limited, Bangladesh.
MR. JAYESH SHAH (DIRECTOR AND CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER) Mr. Jayesh K. Shah, 52 years, is the Wholetime Director with the designation of Director and Chief Financial Officer of the Company. He is a Commerce Graduate and a Chartered Accountant and has been with the company since 1st July, 1993. He has a distinguished academic career and extensive administrative, financial, regulatory and managerial expertise. He also holds directorships in many other companies.
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MR. PUNIT LALBHAI (EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR) Mr. Punit Lalbhai, 30 years, is an MBA from INSEAD (France) specializing in Strategy and General Management, along with Post-Graduate degree in Masters of Environmental Science from Yale University, and a Bachelors degree in Science (Conservation Biology) from University of California, USA. He has several awards and honors during his career including Research Grants, Presidential Fellowship Grant, J.M. Long-Lndowed cholarshlp and lncluslon ln uean's LlsLs for conslsLenL Academic Excellence.
MR. KULIN LALBHAI (EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR) Mr. Kulin Lalbhai, 27years, is an MBA from Harvard Business School (USA), along with a Bachelors degree in Science (Electrical Engineering) from Stanford University, USA. He has held several leadership positions during his academic role including serving as Co-President of Family Business Club at Harvard, Associate Director for Stanford Asia Technology Initiative and also serving as Conference Co- Chair for the Harvard-India Conference.
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OTHER DIRECTORS
Mr. Sudhir Mehta (Non-executive and Independent Director) Mr. Sudhir Mehta is a Science Graduate from Gujarat University. He was instrumental in the growth and progress of Torrent Pharmaceuticals Ltd., the flagship Company of the Torrent Group. He systematically expanded the power business of Torrent Group by acquiring significant stakes in the Torrent Power AEC Ltd. and Torrent Power SEC Ltd. and Torrent Power Generation Limited, now merged with Torrent Power Limited and one among the few successful independent power projects in India.
Dr. Bakul H. Dholakia (Non-executive and Independent Director) Dr. Bakul H. Dholakia is a Gold Medalist from Baroda University and he has a Doctorate in Economics. He has 41 years of professional experience including 33 years at IIM, Ahmedabad. He has been a consultant to various national and international organizations. He was awarded many awards including Padma Shri by the Government of India in recognition of his distinguished services in the field of education in 2007, Bharat Asmita National Award for his contribution to managemenL educaLlon and Leachlng by Lhe Pon'be Chlef !usLlce of lndla ln 2008 etc. TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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Mr. Munesh Khanna (Non-executive and Independent Director) Mr. Munesh Khanna, 50 years, is a Chartered Accountant from ICAI. He has been with the Company since 27th October, 2007. He has over 20 years of experience in the financial, regulatory and taxation domain. He has an extensive network of relationships with Indian Corporates.
Ms. Renuka Ramnath (Non-executive and Independent Director) Ms. Renuka Ramnath is the Founder and Managing Director of Multiples Alternate Asset Management Pvt. Ltd. which seeks to manage circa $450 million of Indian and International capital.
Mr. Prabhakar R. Dalal (Nominee Director of EXIM Bank of India) Mr. Prabhakar R. Dalal is the Executive Director of EXIM Bank of India having qualifications of M.Com, LL.B, CAIIB and PGDFERM and a fellow of the Indian Institute of Banking and Finance (FIIBF). Pe has slx years' experlence ln commerclal banklng afLer [olnlng as C and 28 years' experlence ln lnLernaLlonal 1rade llnanclng, ro[ecLlng llnanclng, Institutional Relations, Corporate Banking and Corporate Finance. TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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Arvind is a pioneer in the manufacture of denim in India. Today with an installed capacity of over 110 million meters per annum, The Naroda plant accounts for 89% of the company's total denim fabric capacity of 108 million meters.
CEO of the Arvind denim division is Mr. Aamir Akhtar.
Arvind denim holds the position of 3rd largest producer of denim in the world; and an export network of 70 countries worldwide. Prominent products in this category include ring denim, indigo voiles, organic denim, bi-stretch denim and fair trade certified denim. This is apart from regular light, medium and heavy weight denims. They come in various shades of indigo, sulfur, yarn-dyed, in 100% cotton and various blends.
Arvind is a leading producer of denim worldwide. Design, Innovations and Sustainability have been their core competency and have played a key role in their success in producing the highest quality of denim and being the market leaders.
About the Company | Denim Division TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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They have a huge DNTG department that is Development and New technology that is the hub of innovation for denims. The use of sophisticated ultramodern technology under the guidance of world-renowned designers has enabled Arvind to deliver many firsts in the international markets. The facilities of Arvind Denim are accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100, GOTS, Organic exchange standard, FLO for fair trade and Lycra Assured. As one of the largest denim producers in the world, Arvind caters to quality markets of Europe, US, West Asia, the Far East and the Asia Pacific. Labs are certified by NABL (ISO 17025 certification) The labs are accredited by Dupont, Levi Strauss, GAP.
All the products are designed and modeled on the basis of expert design inputs coming from our designers based out of India, Japan, Italy and the United States. All Arvind Denim products come with the hallmark of distinctiveness and quality.
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About the Company | International Buyers TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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z
About the Company | Own Brands TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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Production Process | Process Flow Chart TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
BLENDOM AT FILTER ROOM YARN STORAGE AREA COTTON GODOWN BLOW ROOM DRAW FRAME CARDING EXTENSION CARDING
AUTO CORO Production Process | Spinning AUTO CORO STORE TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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BLOW ROOM
Input Cotton Bales -Full of trashes or impurities i.e. leaves, seed, chaff, metallic particle, dusts etc. Purpose Opening Cleaning Mixing or blending Dust removal Uniform feed to the carding machine Output Clean & open small tufts No. of Machines 2 Lines with 12 machines Machine make Trtzschler No. of Operators 2 Operators ( 1op/mc)
To open the compressed layer of bale of cotton or any staple fibres. To convert the mass of cotton fibres in to a uniform thick sheet of cotton both longitudinally and transversely in the form of compactly built lap. To blend different varieties of cotton in the desired proposition to prepare the raw material for the spinning process. To extract the impurities like broken seeds, leaves, sand, stone & iron particles, short fibres, immature fibres, dust, dirt by opening and beating. OBJECTIVES TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
Blendomat o Blending of different types of cotton to maintain consistency
GBR o Cotton Opener o Converts bales into small tufts
AFC o Axi-Flow Cleaner o Separation of heavy parts (impurities) from cotton
MPM-8 o Multiple Mixer with 8 Chambers o Sorts the cotton fibers & is used for homogenous mixture of fibers
ASTA o Heavy trash separation from
BE-961 o Reservoir trunk with opening & cleaning
SRS-6 o Cleaning
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RN o Cleaning
BE-981 o Reservoir trunk with opening & cleaning
RSK o Cleaning
DUST-EX o Removal of Dust & Micro dust
FBK 533 o Enables continuous feeding from Blow Room to Carding
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CARDING
Input Clean & open small tufts Purpose To open the flocks into individual fibers Cleaning or elimination of impurities Reduction of neps Elimination of dust Elimination of short fibers Fiber blending Fiber orientation or alignment Sliver formation Output Sliver No. of Operators 2 Operators ( 1op/10mc) No. of Machines 20 machines Machine make Trtzschler Model DK 803 Production 18,000 kg/day Card cleaning efficiency 62-67% CV% 1.2-1.7% Front Delivery speed 325 Pascal
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Carding is the process of removing impurities from fibers and producing a carded sliver of parallelized and straightened fibers Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining impurities must be removed, the fibers must be disentangles, and they must be straightened. The straightening process puts the fibers into somewhat parallel CARDING. The work is done by carding machine. The lap is passed through a beater section and drawn on rapidly revolving cylinder covered with very fine hooks or wire brushes slowly moves concentrically above this cylinder As the cylinder rotates, the cotton is pulled by the cylinder through the small gap under the brushes; the teasing action removes the remaining trashes, disentangles the fibers , and arranges them in a relatively parallel manner in form of a thin web. This web is drawn through a funnel shaped device that molds it into a round rope like mass called card sliver. Card sliver produces carded yarns or carded cottons that are serviceable to produce denim fabrics.
After carding, the carded slivers go to the draw frame.
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DRAW FRAME
Input Slivers Purpose 6 Slivers are converted into 1 Parallelization of fiber Enhancement of Density Blending Auto-leveler maintains absolute sliver fineness Output Sliver No. of Operators 3 Operators ( 1op/4mc) No. of Machines 6 Breakers + 6 finishers Machine make Trtzschler Model HSR 900 Production 3.5 ton/day
Drawing is the process where the fibers are blended, straightened and the number of fibers in the sliver increased in order to achieve the desired linear density in the spinning process. The drawing process also improves the uniformity or evenness of the sliver. The number of drawing passages utilised depends on the spinning system used and the end products
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In arvind mills, the sliver is drawn through the draw frame twice.
1ST PASSAGE: Parallel alignment of fibers, 6 slivers are converted into one sliver.
2nd PASSAGE: Output of the second passage of draw frame goes into open end spinning.
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SPINNING The plant at Naroda works entirely on open end spinning technology spinning. Ieh|afharfts AU1CCCkC spinning machine. No. of Machines installed - 24 (in all 3 units) 11+7+6 Total number of rotors in each Spinning Unit: AML Section 2376 rotors EOU Section 1680 rotors RDP Section 1440 rotor. Twist produced: Z twist only. Yarn length on creel: 64800 meters. Automatic piecing: Corolap automatic splicer Count: 5.3 to 20 count. 6 slub forming machine The yarn formed is rolled in form of cheese, cone and bobbin. The speed of the rotor roll varies from 80,000 rpm to 130,000 rpm.
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Open end spinning:
Rotor Spinning is a more recent method of yarn formation compared to Ring Spinning. This is a form of open-end spinning where twist is introduced into the yarn without the need for package rotation. Allowing higher twisting speeds with a relatively low power cost. In rotor spinning a continuous supply of fibers is delivered from delivery rollers off a drafting system or from an opening unit. The fibers are sucked down a delivery tube and deposited in the groove of the rotor as a continuous ring of fiber. The fiber layer is stripped off the rotor groove and the resultant yarn wound onto a package. The twist in the yarn being determined by the ratio of the rotational speed of the rotor and the linear speed of the yarn. Sliver is fed into the machine and combed and individualized by the opening roller. TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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The fibers are then deposited into the rotor where air current and centrifugal force deposits them along the groove of the rotor where they are evenly distributed. The fibers are twisted together by the spinning action of the rotor, and the yarn is continuously drawn from the center of the rotor. The resultant yarn is cleared of any defects and wound onto packages. The production rates of rotor spinning is 6-8 times higher than that of ring spinning and as the machines are fed directly by sliver and yarn is wound onto packages ready for use in fabric formation the yarn is a lot cheaper to produce. Rotor spun yarns are more even, somewhat weaker and have a harsher feel than ring spun yarns. Rotor spun yarns are mainly produced in the medium count (30 Ne, 20 tex) to coarse count (10 Ne, 60 tex) range. The yarn is wound on a big package of about 4 kg. The use of this system has two basic advantages. It is fed by sliver, not as with the ring frame by roving, and so eliminates the speed frame from the process line. It can also be modified to remove any remaining trash, thereby improving the yarn quality.
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Ring Spinning Open-end Spinning
Bobbin rotates constantly for insertion of twist Spool does not need to be rotated to insert twist
Cannot handle spools of bigger size Much larger spools can be wound Can spin finer yarns 3-5 times faster than ring spinning Uniform and strong yarn Uniform but flexible yarn with better dye ability
Combed yarns (finer) Carded yarns (coarser) Yarns for varied applications Yarns for heavier fabrics such as denims, towels and poplins Stronger 20% more twisted but 15-20% weaker as the yarn is coarser Suitable for all staple fibers Not suitable for man-made staple fiber spinning
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Warp Dyeing- Normally the process of dyeing dictates the technology of Denim manufacturing. The dyeing for Denim Fabric happens at the yarn stage. Generally there are two most popular methods of dyeing Denim followed. They are: 1. Rope Dyeing 2. Slasher/Sheet Dyeing Process flow of each of the above mentioned processes are discussed in detail below. Warping is transferring many yarns from creel of single-end package forming parallel sheet of yarn wound on to be a beam or section beam. Warping machines can process all type of materials including coarse and fine filament and staple yarns, monofilament, textured and smooth yarns, silk and other synthetic yarn such as glass. A warp beam that is installed on weaving machine is known as weaver beam. A weaver beam contain thousand of ends, but in denim production a beam obtain from warping is known as section beam because denim is made from dyed yarn LhaL's why flrsL secLlon beam can be obLalned and Lhen Lhese secLlon beam are combined on the stage dyeing and sizing to get required number of ends for weaving process. In denim production initially the yarns are first dyed and then weaving process is carried out .
There are two method of yarn dyeing in denim production Rope dyeing. Slasher dyeing.
Warping method used for both method of dyeing are different. The process used for rope dye|ng |s known as "8ALL WAkING" and for s|asher dyeing "8LAM WAkING" method |s used. BEAM WARPING BALL WARPING
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1. ROPE DYEING Believed to be the best possible indigo dyeing method for yarn, the threads of denim yarn are initially twisted into a rope, and then undergo a repetitive sequence of dipping and oxidization. The more frequent the dipping and oxidizing, the stronger the indigo shade. 1 rope = 350-460 ends Process Flowchart-
1) Ball Warping- the process of winding warp in rope form onto balls. Balls are cross wound packages and warp is form of rope.
Technical Details as per the company- - 5 Machines in total for the process - 1 operator is required per machine - Machine setup time/creel changing time is 20 min - Stop Motion / Defect sensor - 444 ends per creel - 320 meLes/mln creel's rpm - 4 hour cycle time Ball Warping Rope Dyeing Re-Beaming Sizing Warp Dyeing | Rope Dyeing TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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2) Rope Dyeing- the process of dyeing the yarn in rope form. Morrison Rope dyeing range is installed at Arvind, Naroda.
Machine passage- 800 meters; 5 rolls are used per chamber run. Machine Units for the process- i) Pre Wetting Zone Temp- 70+/- 30 C / 83C for ulphur 8oLLomq. Pressure PSI- 70 Dancer Weights- 3 ii) Pre Washing Zone Tank 2 is cold wash after sulphur bottoming I done to prevent color slippage and then tank 3 and 4 hot wash. iii) Dyeing Zone Ph range- 12.45, Redox potential -820mv to -860mv Sq. Pressure- 85 +/- 3 PSI Dancer Weight- 6 *For indigo dyeing dip time: air time is 1:6 iv) Wash Zone Temp- 50+/- 3 C Sq. Pressure PSI- 90 Dancer Weights- 6 Ash flow- 100+/-5 v) Hot Wash Zone Temp- 85C Ph range- 12.60 12.85 Redox- -810 to -660 Sq- 75 PSI Dancer Weight- 6 Drying Cans 48 cylinders in total 5 bar pressure Coiling Units Litter waste and final collected separately TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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*Shade Checking System- Spectrophotometer is also present in the machine In this method a warp beams first converts into rope beamers and then transfer to the Rope Dyeing machine for the further process. Rope-dye ranges enable to produce pure indigo, sulfur bottom, sulfur top, and colored denim yarn. The yarn goes through scour/sulfur dye, wash boxes, indigo dye vats, over a skying device (to allow oxidation to occur), through additional wash boxes, over drying cans and then is coiled into tubs which are transferred to the Re- Beaming process. The speed range of this machine is 0 to 30m/min with the production capacity of 2 sets in same time. Production per day is 36000x2=72000m; at the speed of 25m/min Count range in rope dyeing is (16s to 6/s) OE and Slub both.
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3) Re-Beaming - Re-opening the rope and winding it on beams so that they can be sized on next step. Technical Details as per the company- - 13 Machines in total for the process - 1 operator is required per machine - Machine setup time is 25 min - 441 combs per machine - 96000 meter/ day/ machine
4) Sizing To cover the yarn with size material in order to prevent breakage during the weaving process due to the tension it undergoes. Technical Details as per the company- - 3 Machines in total for the process, for regular sizing and third for experiments and tests. - 2 creels set at a time lodged in the machine, one spare and one running - 1 operator per machine & 2 assistant operator per machine required
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Process- - Each sheet separated by the guide roll (10 sheets, 10 guide roller) - Passes through the size box/Sow box at a temp of 90C and any of the 4 recepies mentioned as per the requirement 64 reed, 43" waLer, 600gm n powder/blnder, 100kkg wlLh sLarch Anilose E starch, mutton tallow 4 kg 800gm NSC, 64+60 stretch reed ( everything else same) 1500g binder, 68+72 reed ( everything else same) 125 DN size, no binder, 48 water- 4 Count: Special Slot - Drying slot- approx. 125C temp and 4 cylinders - Accumulator- 2 accumulator beams with 120 m capacity each
Type of Bath for BOX MIX Dark INDIGO Conductivity at the start 50 o 60 ms TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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2. SLASHER DYEING In continuous slasher / sheet dyeing and sizing machine, direct warping beams are used, instead of ball warping logs in case of Indigo rope dyeing system. At the back end of the slasher / sheet dyeing range, the direct warping beams are creeled. The yarns sheet from each beam is pulled over and combined with the yarns from the other beams so that multiple sheets of yarns can be made. In sheet dyeing range, the total No of required ends for a weavers beam are dyed, dried, sized and dried simultaneously. This continuous slasher dyeing range eliminates a few intermediate processes of the rope dyeing, such as re-beaming, sizing. Process Flowchart-
Machine Units for the process- i) Pre Wetting Zone (Dyeing tank) Temp- 70+/- 30 C / 83C for ulphur 8oLLom Nip Pressure- 50 +/- KN Dancer Pressure- 2.5 kg/cm 3
ii) Dyeing Nip pressure= 55+/-3 Temp= room temp Dyeing capacity= 10,000 l /6 tanks iii) Washing 1500 l iv) Drying 8 cylinders 6 bar pressure in total v) Sizing 2 squeezing rolls and 2 immersion rolls of 15m depth vi) Drying Cans 12 cylinders in total 5 bar pressure vii) Accumulator 220m capacity viii) Compensator and leasing Winding tension 3000/ KN
WEAVING is interlacement of the warp (length-wise indigo or sulphur dyed yarn) and the filling (grey yarn cross wise yarn) producing denim in a variety of weights and styles.
Input Warp Beam and Weft yarn Output Woven Denim Fabric No. of Operators 6 Operators ( 1op/9mc) No. of Machines 54 Machine make Tsudakoma Model ZAX 9100 Production 95000m/day Max. Fabric Width 71.3"
Full Weaver's Beam Tension Roll Drop Pins Heald Wires Reed Upper Press Roll Friction Roll Lower Press Roll Bottom Guide Roll Batching guide Roll Batching Roll Cloth Roll Weaving | Introduction TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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AUTHENTIC DENIM A heavy weight fabric Made of cotton yarn with no yarn characteristics 3/1 right hand twill 100% natural indigo dyed Weft and warp count 7 & 6 respectively with 36 picks per inch
TYPES OF YARNS USED Warp: Organic, Conventional Weft- Open end, Ring spun, Slub, Lycra, Polyester, Poly lycra
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Finishing and Processing Arvind Mill, Naroda boasts of 2 integrated finishing ranges and 2 other finishing departments. In integrated denim finishing range, the singeing and shrinking is carried out in a single range. This reduces the process time, material handling, cost of production and labour cost. Finishing of grey denim fabric normally carried out after weaving. It takes an important role infabric properties, appearance, softness and residual fabric shrinkage.
The department churns out 300000 meters of finished denim cloth a day. The main purposes of applying various finishes may be summarised as under. 1. HIGH SALES APPEAL: To impart properties of attractive appearance, supple handle, softness and good drape. 2. HIGH WEAR QUALITY: This refers to adequate tensile and abrasion strengths, dimensional stability, crease recovery and freedom from pilling. 3. BODY PROTECTION AND COMFORT: This relates to proper heat insulation, moisture absorption and air permeability. 4. SPECIAL EFFECTS: These include water-repellency, reduced flammability, mildew and moth-proofing, anti-static behaviour and soil release property. Finishing & Processing | Introduction TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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1) Wet Finishing Department
Process Flow Chart:
I. Singeing Unit
Singeing Unit Mercerizing Unit Stentering Unit Wet Finishing Unit Craddle Unit Inlet J Unit Brushing Unit Singeing Unit Nip Unit Outlet J Unit Batching & Plaiting Unit Finishing & Processing | Wet Finishing TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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Unit Specification- Capacity: 40-50 m/min Production: 41000-45000 m/ day 15000-17000 m/shift CNG Gas Burner 90 Flame Interaction 3 operator per machine II. Mercerizing Unit
Inlet J Unit Brushing Unit Caustic Impregnatorr Stablizer Unit Washing Unit Acid Unit Drying Zone Outlet J Unit TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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III. Stentering Unit
Inlet J Unit Brushing Unit Chemical Padder Foam Coating Unit Cliping Unit Chamber CNG Fire Blower Heat Setting Coling Drum Outlet J Unit Batching Unit TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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Wet Finishing Unit
Inlet J Unit Brushing Unit Chemical Padding Nip Width Adjusting line Skew line Mahalo Unit Dry Stack Section 1 & 2 Rubber Unit Palmer Unit Outlet J Unit Batching Unit TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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DID is a critical unit for the innovation and creativity that Arvind mills projects. The department has been constituted in such a manner that it has 2 parts- The Design Team The Technical Team
Design Team: The design team has a constant responsibility of re-innovating denims. It consists of fashion consultants from Europe and other countries along with the textile experts and textile designers. The team works together to create a completely different denim design. Though it seems like innovation in design in denims has limited scope, this group of professionals use their creativity and constant thinking skills to come up with unprecedented designs. They follow trends, customer feedback and various trends in the various parts of the world, research it and come up with innovative ideas. These new designs are featured in fashion shows across the globe, for top fashion experts to see and review, and hence maintain the exclusiveness of denim produced by Arvind Mills. Top designers like Calvin Klien, Chanel etc. and brands like Zara, Abercrombie and Fitch, Mango, Gap and many others, select these designs and order them to be produced in mass. The designs can be created by changing one of the following characteristics of the fabric: Denim Incubation Department | Design Team TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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Weave of the fabric: o (denim is usually 3 x 1 twill)- variations are made in twill weave or by changing the nature of the weave all together. Like 2X1 or other variations
1he dy|ng procedures output: o (usually done with indigo and sulphur dyes) the dying can give colour effects to the fabric. Different compositions of dyes are used and innovations and creativity in the use of colors, produces more number of designs. Sometimes the weft and the warp are of different dyes, creating an iridescent effect. Though traditionally blue or black, many other colours of denims are created
Fiber Used: o Authentic denim uses cotton fiber, but for design variations cotton blends are used. Light weight yarns like polyester are used to manufacture denim used in garments like jeggings and lighter weight denim requirements. Most popular addition to denim fabric is Lycra for streatchability as that is a prominent feature of jeans. Most recent type of denim added to the denim family of Arvind is Lxce| den|m(wor|ds softest denim)*.
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Finishes Applied: o Fabrics can be re-innovated in terms of the type of finish applied, Now-a-days, there are a variety of finishes that can be applied to any fabric and same goes for denim. Usually mercerization is a process not done for denims, as it does not require very soft and smooth fibers, but inclusion of finished like mercerization or resin finish, can completely change the look and feel of the fabric. Other aesthetic finishes, like partial napping or emerization, anti-crease finish, permanent creases by resin finish can be given. *1he fabrlc, 'Lxcel uenlms', would be manufacLured ln Arvlnd Croup's producLlon facility in Ahmedabad, which has a capacity of 120 million metres of fabric per annum. While Birla Cellulose would be involved in the R&D to create the fibre made of super refined wood pulp, Arvind would be manufacturing the fabric and selling them both in the domestic and international markets.
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The following are a few lines of denim that have been developed and new products are added to it every day:
Kato (Japanese denim line): o Kato brings in the authentic attributes of denim in collections, fabrics mostly made on the shuttle loom and with selvedge. ADL (Arvind Denim Lab): o The ADL line is specifically for the US brands. The s/s 2014 collection has special attractions in the form of colour denims, indigos with colour fills andsummer lights in excel along with the authentic core line Euroline (European denim line): o The Euroline is specifically for the brand needs inEurope. The s/s 2014 collection has an introduction of shades like pink, sky blue but in a grading of color. Metro (Indian denim line): o 1he meLro llne ls deslgned by Arvlnd's ln-house design team specifically for Indian brands. The collection has the flavor of a true Indian denim. We have also recently launched a collection in Excel called Excel Denim in collaboration with Birla Cellulose. It will be the world's sofLesL denlm.
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Arvlnd's ueslgn deparLmenL ls always hlgh on new developmenLs ln Lhe denlm world and always has number of projects under the innovation pipeline which are yet to be tested and finalized for the season breaks accordingly. Few of those projects are-
SPIES o Ecru fabric with only warp dyed yarns which are chemically treated during spinning. NEO o Richer. Deeper denim shade for wash explorations. KHADI o Premium line of denim. Hand spun, hand woven. Fantastic look, drape, fall. On the principle of sustainability. JACQUARD o Various shades of denims and fabric types brought in together for one fabric and different look. RING
LINEN o 100% linen in 3x1 weave for better sheen, drape etc. Again a premium line
Denim Incubation Department -- Innovation Pipeline Denims TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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The technical team of the development and new technology team aims at developing the fabric as per customer requirements. They have technicians and fabric experts who constantly work together and collaborate with each of the processing units to get the desired output of the fabric. Then, they calculate/concur and document the exact procedures and processes to be followed to create the fabric exactly matching customer requirements. Once the processes have been determined by the DNTG department, they are delegated to the individual units for mass production. The DID DEPARTMENT at Arvind mills has a database of more than 8000 fabrics, that have been created for all kinds of uses. The designs range from all kinds of usage of yarn, to differentiation based on any of the factors mentioned above. Customers and designers may choose out of this data base to order in bulk, The data then goes to PPC department, that is production Planning and Control and the mass production of fabrics start. Collection development is done at least one year in advance and presented on a road show/ramp show for the buyers to see and order. These shows contain 30-35 pieces each o the type of fabric characteristic being showcased.
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There are basically two ways this whole process works: Collection Development Customer Development Technical department takes care of the re production and du-pro problems of the ongoing batches also. Consistency/Reproducibility Feed/Stock Machines Used Process Followed All of the above mentioned factors are taken care by the DID right from the beginning of the collection development till the marketing stage. TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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DID Innovation and Process Upgradation Approval/Confirmmation from the CEO Testing of Physical Properties Washing Spinning (Yran slub characteristics etc) Dye Stuf (dye style, shade etc) Weaving (Constrction and Selevedge) Finishing (Process and Sequence, OD, printing/coating) Inspection QA for Testing- Sampling Comercialisation of the fabric chart prepared Cost Upgradation- Final Costing Marketting Customer Development Collection Development TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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Arvind is committed at providing the best quality of fabric to the consumers for over 80 years now. The quality control is an integrated process that starts when the customer gives the order, and the DNTG develops the samples accordingly, it is checked for quality assurance measures and compliances with customer needs. At later stages the fabric is inspected and testing of parameters of fabric is done. Essentially there are 2 major parts of quality assurance:
QUALITY ASSURANCE AND STANDARDISATION Inspection department uses 13 Kitamura Machine to find such defects in fabrics. The inspection frame is aligned at an angle between 45 and 60 degrees. Speed of fabric on inspection m/c : 25m/min Light : 100 Lux Inclination : 57 0
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Arvind follows 100 percent inspection procedures. The acceptance level of the fabric depends on the customer preferences. There are two inspectors to keep continuous watch on fabric for finding the defects. The 4-point grading system indicates that as per customer requirement defects are allowable upto their levels. We have observed that in VF brand the 4- point allowable are only 4 that is total 16 defects per 135-meter roll. 4-point grading system is used for inspection of fabrics and this includes: Size of defect Penalty Points 3" or less 1 Point 3.1" Lo 6 "
2 Points
6.1" Lo 9"
3 Points More Lhan 9"
4 Points Holes or Openings(Largest Dimension)
1" or less
2 Points More Lhan 1"
4 Points
No penalty points are recorded for minor defects.
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Major Defects are classified as follows:- Major woven fabric defects such as slubs, holes, missing yarn, conspicuous yarn variation, end out, soiled yarn, and wrong yarn. Major knitted fabric defects are mixed yarn, yarn variation, runner, needle line, barre, slub,hole, press off. Major dyeing or printing defects are print out, dye spots, machine stop, color smear or shading.
Fabric containing more than 40 points per 100 square yards is considered as SECONDS . At the beginning of the month the inspection department gets the production plan for the entire month and they plan their procedures accordingly. The finishing department gives the material transfer note to the inspection department where the material is checked for the following defects:
Spinning related Defects: Warp Slub Weft Slub Thick end Coarse/fine weft Weft bar
Weaving preparatory related defects Knot Slack end Ball formation Size patches
Weaving related defects Starting mark Tight end Weft float Knot Moir Repaired warp Double end
Bowing and Skewing
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Check for skewed, bowed and biased fabric. For this purpose check the bowing and s skewing at every 10 meters. The bowing and skewing are calculated as follows: Bow: A bow is an uneven deviation of a weft from a line drawn perpendicular to the selvedge of the fabric. A bow may have different forms:
If the average Bowing or Skewing for a roll is more than 2-3%, reject the roll.
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Physical Testing: The samples are tested for/by: Yarn evenness: USTER TESTER 5 Statex CSP(cascade strength tester) system: Yarn count and strength Single yarn tester Instron 4465: Tensile Test for fabric Elemendorf Tearing Strength: Tearing strength check by application of 9000g force Chatillon Stiffness Tester Resistance to bending Paramount humidity checker For humidity control Stretch/elongation test Weight of 1.35 kg applied on a designated swatch sample for half an hour Dimensional Stability and skew movement test Shrinkage test Measure shrinkage after washing thrice + conditioning Ozone test chamber by USA inc. Snarl indicator Twist tester Statex (14.4 tpi) TESTING TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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Chemical testing Tests requested by preferred customers: LEVIs Test method Ph ISO-3071 Crocking AATCC-8 SPOT TEST SI 1005 Water Repellency ISO 105-E01 Acid ISO 105-E02 Alkali ISO 105-E04
POLO method Ph ISO-3071 Crocking ISO 105*12 WATER repellency ISO 105-E01 Acid ISO 105-E02 Alkali ISO 105-E04 Washing C06-AIM SPOT TEST SI 1005 TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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Chemical Tests Conducted in the lab: o Raw Material checking like dyeing/finishing auxhillaries Basic chemical. Percentage of purity of Hydros, Caustic acid, peroxides etc Purity performance of dyes like indigo, vat sulphur Auhilaries like wetting agents, sizing, finishing etc o Stock Weight of indigo (gpl) Brandsbender moisture tester (105 degree c. for 4 hrs) o Weighing balance Mettler Toledo o Crockmeter AATCC o Formldehyde content in dye/stock bath o Thermo orion pH meter o Launder-O-meter o ATLAS crockmeter o Genesys 10 spectrophotometer o Muffle furnace o Cintex incubator o EEC beaker dyeing machine o USA ozone test chamber o Flamability tester
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Shade testing: The software used for shade testing is EASY MATCH. HunterLab's EasyMatch QC software gives unprecedented flexibility to process, display, analyze and report color measurement results. Color measurement and analysis software reports absolute and color difference data in all widely used color scales, for various lighting and observing conditions. Pass/Fail functions provide fast go/no-go decisions. Data can be reported numerically in tabular or spreadsheet form. Data can also be graphically displayed as color difference plots, trend plots and spectral curves. All results can be viewed, stored, printed or imported into your database programs. The software uses a spectrophotometer to record observations, and plots deviations from avg and perfect sample for each roll. It also provides pass and fail options for rolls that deviate too much from normal value making it very easy for the operator to assure quality and minimize shade variation. It also helps in shade wise differentiation and categorization of rolls. So that the consumer may be able to easily distinguish between lots of various shades
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* The final step is now to OK the batch/lot for shipping and send to the packaging dept so as to put on the required details and ship the consignment. The details that need to be present on the packaging are: Shipment no. Date Sort no F.M.C Code no Meters Flags/points Opt no.
PACKAGING AND SHIPPING
Rolls of approximately 135m each is sealed by polythene. Spec. of polythene cover: Plastic bags of 23 micron used
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ISO 9001:2000 by BVQI (India) Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai-India, for Manufacture and Supply of Denim Fabrics.
The ISO 9000 family of standards is related to quality management systems and designed to help organizations ensure that they meet the needs of customers and other stakeholders [1] while meeting statutory and regulatory requirements related to the product.
The ISO 9001:2000 version sought to make a radical change in thinking by actually placing the concept of process management front and center ("Process management" was the monitoring and optimisation of a company's tasks and activities, instead of just inspection of the final product).
IS0 14000: Provides environment management standards to help organisations minimize their negative impact on the environment Environment Management System (EMS) mandatory Certification carried out by third party Focuses on process as in case of ISO 9000
ACCREDITATIONS TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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Oeko-Tex Standard 100 by Shirley Technologies Ltd., UK, for Black and Indigo dyed denim fabrics, black / indigo printed denim fabric including stretch denims. The Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is a globally uniform testing and certification system for textile raw materials, intermediate and end products at all stages of production. The tests for harmful substances comprise substances which are prohibited or regulated by law, chemicals which are known to be harmful to health, and parameters which are included as a precautionary measure to safeguard health.
"ka| Internat|ona| tandards for usta|nab|e 1ext||e roduct|on" by Control Union Certifications, The Netherlands, for Processing of organic cotton.
"G|oba| Crgan|c 1ext||e tandards", Control Union Certifications, The Netherlands, for Processing of fibres from certified organic agriculture.
Lev|s strauss Laboratory Certification by Levi Strauss & Co., Test Methods and conditions set forth, Denim Laboratory, The Arvind Mills Ltd.
ISO-17025 NABL National Accreditation Board for Laboratories, Delhi, India, for Chemical & Mechanical disciplines of testing.
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Premier Accreditation Scheme by Marks & Spencer, Test Methods and conditions set forth, Laboratory, Shirting Division Business, The Arvind Mills Ltd.
Llz Clalborne lnL'l LLd., 1esLlng audlL performance, LaboraLory, hlrLlng Business Division, The Arvind Mills Ltd.
Labs are certified by DUPONT (LYCRA). .
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Project Title o Arvlnd's lnvolvemenL ln 8eLLer CoLLon lnlLlaLlves
Objective o Introduction to BCI o Arvlnd's lmplemenLaLlon of 8Cl norms o Quality Analysis of BCI-Bunny Brahma & Bunny Brahma Cotton
Project Report | Brief TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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Methodology o Secondary research Understanding of BCI and its Norms. o Primary Research Data Collection Quality Analysis of BCI bunny Brahma Cotton Quality Analysis of Bunny Brahma Cotton o Analysis of the differences between BCI-Bunny Brahma & Bunny Brahma Cotton o Conclusion
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INTRODUCTION
The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) is primarily focusing on the following : To demonstrate the inherent benefits of BC production, particularly the financial profitability for farmers. To reduce the impact of water and pesticide use on human and environmental health. To improve soil health and biodiversity. To promote Decent Work for farming communities and cotton farm workers. To facilitate global knowledge exchange on more sustainable cotton production. To increase the traceability along the cotton supply chain.
KEY FEATURES Producers need to meet the Minimum Production Criteria which are the initial core requirements, to receive a license to produce BC. Minimum Production Criteria (MPC) are the starting point in a cycle of continuous improvement required by BCI. Once MPC are met, producers have to address Progress Requirements. BCI aims to transform cotton production worldwide by developing BC as a sustainable mainstream commodity. There is not BC label on final products. A major partner speeding up the production of BC is the BC Fast Track Program. Leading BCI brands as well as a number of public sector funders contribute to the BC Fast Track program, which channels funds directly to farmer training and improvement programs, all designed around the BC standard. This allows BCI and its partners to reach more regions, train more farmers and produce more cotton. BCI membership focuses on enabling positive change in the field, supporting supply creation, building public support and demonstrating market place demand for BC as a mainstream commodity.
FACTS & FIGURES 490,000 Mettlc 1oos of Better Cotton was produced on 435,000 hectares by 90,000 farmers in 2011-12. 8cl membets tepteseots ovet 5X of tbe wotlJs total consumption. 246 membets by tbe end of 2012. TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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The Better Cotton System The Production Principles and Criteria cannot operate in isolation, and form part of the BC System. This BC System is made up of the following inter-dependent components, each as important as the other in making the system effectively deliver its objectives: Production Principles and Criteria to provide a global definition of BC Farmer Support to promote enabling mechanisms at a local and global level, working with experienced implementing partners, and stimulating public-private partnership funds to implement these mechanisms Farm Assessment to encourage farmers to continuously improve, through measuring results and seasonal learning cycles Supply Chain connecting supply with demand through an identifiable bale of 100% BC lint Monitoring, Evaluation and Learning mechanisms to measure progress and change and to ensure the BC System has the intended impacts on its direct beneficiaries Tools, guidelines and learning forums to facilitate the exchange of best practices and knowledge to encourage the scaling up of collective action
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PRODUCTION PRINCIPLES BC is produced by farmers who minimize the harmful impact of crop protection practices BC is produced by farmers who use water efficiently and care for the availability of water BC is produced by farmers who care for the health of the soil BC is produced by farmers who conserve natural habitats BC is produced by farmers who care for and preserve the quality of the fiber BC is produced by farmers who promote decent work CRITERIA FOR ASSESSMENT Pass and fail: Producer need to respect Better Cotton Minimum Production Criteria in order to get a license to produce BC. The BC system aims at continuous improvement. It is not organized as a simple pass or fail system but goes beyond by integrating elements of capacity building, data management, and progress.
What happens if non-conformity is found? At least 80% of the farmers in Learning Group must comply with all relevant BC criteria in order for the group to get a license to produce BC. Where a systematic breach of a Minimum Production Criteria is observed, the whole Producer Unit may be disqualified. TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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Does the initiative offer incentives for continuous improvement? After meeting the Minimum Production Criteria, BC farmers have to meet 'rogress equlremenLs'. These progress requirements are presented in the Landards Map daLabase as 'Medlum-Lerm requlremenLs'.
AUDIT INFORMATION 1st, 2nd, 3rd party certification: The BC assurance system is a combination of self-assessment, second party credibility checks and third party verification. Frequency of audits: Yearly Validity of audit certificate: One year.
PRODUCTS TRACEABLITY ALONG THE SUPPLY CHAIN One of the key elements of the supply chain for BC is the creation of 100% BC bales, meaning that BC is segregated from farm to gin. Chain of Custody standard BCI will create a 100% BC bale, and connect the supply of BC to demand, putting in place a supply chain system that facilitates the procurement of BC. USE OF LOGO ON THE FINAL PRODUCT? No
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SUPPORT To help farmers adopt practices consistent with the BCI Production Principles, BCI coordinates a program of farmer support activities delivered through experienced Implementing Partners. Farmers support covers knowledge sharing and skills development and effective producer organization For Implementing Partners, three of the BC System components focus on support. BCI provides a Step by Step Guide to Implementation for both smallholders and large farms and annual workshops that help companies understand and implement the BCI program. Applications for financial grants can be submitted twice a year through an online form. The funding contribution matches up to a maximum of 50% of the total project cost. Members receive supply chain support from dedicated supply chain coordinators, as well as Secretariat and Council support through Caucus calls, BCI hosted events and webinars. COSTS Membership fee: The membership fee is based on member category, size and either annual lint cotton consumption, annual turnover/income, or whether the organization is based in an OECD Country or a non-OECD country. Certification costs: Third party verification costs are born by large farms or by BCI in the case of smallholders. TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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THE BCI STANDARD SYSTEM IS APPLICABLE TO PRODUCERS IN THE FOLLOWING COUNTRIES AND REGIONS: ASIA China, India, Pakistan, Tajikistan AFRICA Benin, Burkina Faso, Cameroon, Mali, Senegal, Togo SOUTH AMERICA Brazil
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Areas Covered by BCI standard system: Immediate Requirement: 1he 8Cl Mlnlmum roducLlon CrlLerla" form Lhe lnlLlal core requlremenLs for farmers Lo grow 8eLLer CoLLon". These criteria are presented in the Landards Map daLabase as lmmedlaLe requlremenLs".
Medium-term requirement: 1he 8Cl rogress equlremenLs" form an addlLlonal seL of requlremenLs LhaL farmers, afLer meeLlng Lhe Mlnlmum roducLlon CrlLerla" must complete with a minimum number of additional benchmarks within the following 3 growing seasons, while of course maintaining compliance to the Mlnlmum roducLlon CrlLerla". 1hese progress requlremenLs are presenLed ln Lhe Landards Map daLabase as Medlum-term requlremenLs". TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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OVERVIEW OF REQUIREMENTS:
EXPLANATION: Critical: 1he 8Cl 'Mlnlmum roducLlon CrlLerla' form Lhe lnlLlal core requlremenLs for farmers Lo grow '8eLLer CoLLon'. 1hese crlLerla are presenLed ln Lhe Landards Map daLabase as 'crlLlcal requlremenLs'.
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Medium term: After meeting the Minimum Production Criteria, Better Cotton farmers have Lo meeL 'rogress equlremenLs'. 1hese progress requlremenLs are presenLed ln Lhe Landards Map daLabase as 'Medlum-Lerm requlremenLs'.
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As the leader of Indian textile industry, Arvind has taken it upon itself to develop models that make production of its most valued and most extensively used raw material more sustainable. Which is why, Arvind Agribusiness has initiated contract farming projects in Akola district of Maharashtra State & Nizar Taluka in Tapi district of Gujarat State.
Aims of the Initiative
Improve the farmer's productivity and income Develop environmentally sustainable business models Enhance the region's biodiversity Promote decent work ethics Develop a lasting social infrastructure & support system
BCI at Arvind Limited | Introduction TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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Details of Project Akola (Maharashtra) Nizar (Gujarat) Total Project Since 2010 2011 No. of Villages 131 58 189 Total area covered (Ha) 15,000 10,400 25,400 No. of farmers benef|tted 3,000 2,600 5,600 No. of farm family members benefitted 15,000 13,000 28,000 Employment generated (Farm workers) 45,000 40,000 85,000 Capacity (Bales of 165kgs) 35,000 40,000 75,000 Cotton Type Bunny/Brahma Sankar-6(SUP)
BCI at Arvind Limited | Farm Projects TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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From the farm to the fashion industry, Arvind's approach to contract farming is extensive and thorough. Arvind plays a key role in every single process involved in this initiative. Infrastructure and capacity building: This includes research, collaborations with national & international organizations, research institutions, etc. strong HR policies, capacity building for extension activities. Building the right team: A team of 105 field experts including agronomists, soil scientists, pest and disease specialist and MSW (for carrying out decent work activities) are put in place. Training: Highly qualified agronomists train and educate farmers about crop, nutrient, pest and disease management, decent work ethics (no child labor, discrimination, gender issues, etc.) and business models to improve productivity. Guidance material on better management practices based on Better Cotton Production criteria is developed. Technology and skill development: Participatory Technology Development in collaboration with project farmers helps in finding location-specific solutions. Monitoring: Regular farm visits are made. Detailed farm records, soil tests, and constant monitoring ensure a healthy crop. Validation work on better management practices is carried out. Elimination: Middle men are eliminated. Farmers are also introduced to dependable farm input suppliers. Assured buy back: Arvind buys the crop at market prices and guarantees Minimum Support Price. A 'Farm Gate' payment policy ensures that payments are made within seven working days.
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Managing the supply chain: Arvind Agribusiness maintains a fully tracebale supply-chain and an extensive management information system. It is involved in establishing an effective producer organization, the segregation of better cotton, chain of custody procedures and engagement with ginners and other organizations.
BCI at Arvind Limited | Benefits
A HOLISTIC APPROACH TO CONTRACT FARMING WHERE THE ECONOMIC, SOCIAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL BENEFITS NOT ONLY CO-EXIST BUT ALSO AUGMENT EACH OTHER.
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Economic benefits
Reduced cost of production: The cost of production is reduced through the collective purchase of farm inputs and better, economical deals from suppliers. Better profitability: The need for middle men has been eliminated as Arvind ensures that the produce is bought at the farmer's door step. Better access to affordable finance: Dependence on local moneylenders has also been reduced as farmers are encouraged to deal with reliable financial institutions. Better nutrient, pest and disease management: Better management practices ensure reduced use of inputs (like synthetic pesticides & fertilizers ), untimely reducing the risk taken in synthetic pesticides handling and application. Knowledge sharing and skill development: Farmers receive practical knowledge on production principles that can decrease the cost of production and increase profitability. Quality of fibre: From soil preparation to harvesting and segregating better quality cotton at the farm gate, our agronomist are involved in every process to ensure better quality cotton.
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Environmental benefits
Water efficiency: The learning forums provide know how on using water efficiently through micro irrigation.
Soil health: Reduced use of pesticides, micro irrigation and regular soil tests ensure better soil health.
Habitat conservation: The initiative helps to conserve their natural habitat by minimizing the harmful effects of crop protection by reducing use of pesticides.
Social benefits
Decent work ethics: The initiative gives men, women and backward classes equal employment and income opportunities (equal and approved wages).
Abolishing social evils: Social and cultural programmes are regularly organized in order to create awareness about child labour and gender discrimination. Presently, both the projects put together employs 85000 farm workers both men and women.
Building a healthy community: Internationally recognized health and safety standards are followed. The initiative also works towards building a strong social structure based on mutual cooperation and understanding. TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
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Quality Parameters Akola (Maharashtra) Nizar (Gujarat) Length (Staple in mm) 29.0 + 29.0 + Strength (Grams per tex) 29.0 + 29.0 + Micronaire 3.5 - 4.3 3.7 - 4.4 Grade Strict Middling Strict Middling UBI Codes Upon Lifting Upon Lifting Advantage Arvind 5% HVI Results 5% HVI Results BCI at Arvind Limited | Quality Assessment TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
As the leader of Indian textile industry, Arvind has taken it upon itself to develop models that make production of its most valued and most extensively used raw material i.e. Cotton more sustainable.
Application of BCI Norms by Arvind has not only uplifted the lifestyle of the workers under the BCI project but has also enhanced the overall quality level of Cotton yarns since its quality is based on the uniformity level of Cotton fibers.
The BCI Cotton has a much lower Coefficient of Variance despite being manufactured in different areas than the normally procured cotton from the same areas.
The uniformity index of BCI-BB is 88.8 as compared to the uniformity index of BB i.e. 81.6 which is significantly lower than the BCI-Cotton and affects its quality greatly.
BCI at Arvind Limited | Conclusion TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT