Barbacoa Simplified

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By: Charlie Baggs and Josh Gordon
P osted on: 12/09/2008
Barbacoa is often misunderstood in the United States, and is often much different here than in Mexico. And, even in Mexico,
barbacoa can vary depending on the region.
Traditionally, barbacoawhich translates as barbecuerefers to meat that is wrapped in maguey or banana leaves, then
smoked and steamed over a pot of water at the base of a coal-lined pit. The meat is typically not marinated and often only
seasoned with salt. The pot of water may contain beans and vegetables to create a soup to serve with the barbacoa. The
pit is then covered, and thebarbacoa is left to cook for several hoursoften up to 12.
In northern Mexico, beef cheeksor an entire cow head (barbacoa de
cabeza)form the basis of barbacoa, while in central Mexico the barbacoa
would most likely be lamb or goat. In the Yucatn region youll find pit-
style pork called cochinita pibil.
The meats are typically served with tortillas, cilantro, lime, chopped and
rinsed onion, and salsa. The salsas can vary just as much as the meats,
but are typically green and tomatillo-based or red and tomato-based.
In the United States, barbacoa almost always refers to beef and is served
shredded. However, since digging a 6-ft. pit is often not practical (or in
accordance with health codes), beef for barbacoa is typically braised.
Braising replicates the moist-heat cooking method, but doesnt deliver the
true smoky flavor of Mexican barbacoa. Therefore, to boost the smokiness of the gold-standard recipe, we added some
chipotle and ancho chiles, which together contribute an earthy, smoky flavor to the barbacoa.
In going from the gold-standard recipe to a cook-in-bag manufacturing process, we added smoke flavor to impart the
characteristic note of authentic barbacoa without the need for additional equipment. Hickory, applewood and mesquite
smoke flavors work well, either alone or in a combination. The earthy note from ancho chiles also helps recreate flavors
that would come from the traditional pit-cooking method. Other caramelized flavors, such as onions, garlic and peppers,
can create a bolder savory building block to increase the overall flavor and complexity. Additionally, the cook-in-bag
technique provides a similar environment to the wrapped and steamed meats of traditional barbacoa. Phosphates can be
added to the formulas marinade to help the meat better retain the marinade, but doing so can create a hammy texture
that may be undesirable. In the rub, xanthan gum helps build viscosity in the sauce that develops in the bag as the
barbacoa cooks.
Recipe:
Ingredients
One lamb shoulder (8 to 12 lbs.), trimmed
cup kosher salt
10 garlic cloves, rough chopped
2 medium white onions, rough chopped
cup apple cider vinegar
4 ancho chiles, soaked in hot water to soften
2 chipotle chiles, ground
1 tablespoon toasted cumin seeds, ground
Procedure: Sprinkle salt over lamb shoulder and rub the salt into the meat. Sear all sides of meat in roasting pan. Place
garlic cloves into a food processor and pulse until minced. Add onion and cider vinegar and pure until smooth. Add ancho,
chipotle and toasted cumin and pure until incorporated. Rub the pure over the meat thoroughly. With lamb shoulder in
roasting pan, add water until it reaches about a third or halfway up the side of the meat. Braise the lamb shoulder at
250F for 4 hours or until fork tender. Remove lamb from roasting pan and cover with foil or plastic wrap; let stand for 20
minutes. Meanwhile, ladle fat from surface of the cooking liquid and discard. Then strain the cooking liquid into a saucepot.
Reduce cooking liquid to desired taste and viscosity (approximately 10 minutes). Cut the lamb meat into large (1-in.)
pieces and shred. Add just enough of the reduced cooking liquid back to the shredded meat to moisten. Serve with warm
corn and/or flour tortillas, queso fresco, salsa rojo and salsa verde, and a mixture of chopped and rinsed onion, cilantro,
and lime juice. Yields approximately 24 servings of 4 to 6 oz. each.
Formula:
Marinade
Dry Rub
Procedure: Inject lamb shoulder with marinade at 15% by weight, then vacuum tumble to incorporate the marinade
Ingredients % by Weight
Boneless lamb shoulder, trimmed, cut into pieces of 3 to 4 lbs. each 100.00
Total: 100.00
Ingredients % by Weight
Water 95.00
Salt 5.00
Total: 100.00
Ingredients % by Weight
Ancho powder 30.00
Garlic powder 20.00
Onion powder 20.00
Cumin, ground 20.00
Sugar, granulated 5.00
Xanthan gum 2.50
Apple cider vinegar 2.00
Smoke flavor, liquid 0.50
Total: 100.00
Procedure: Inject lamb shoulder with marinade at 15% by weight, then vacuum tumble to incorporate the marinade
evenly throughout meat (70% vacuum for approximately 45 minutes). Add the dry rub mixture to tumbler for
approximately 5 minutes to evenly coat all meat. Seal 34 lb. pieces of lamb shoulder individually in combination boil, bake
and microwave bags for slow cooking process in smokehouse. Place in 185F smokehouse oven with damper closed to
retain high humidity until the internal temperature is 180F. Lower oven temperature to 180F with high humidity to keep
the bag from drying out for approximately 5 to 6 hours and the internal temperature ranges from 175 to 185F. Start the
shower in smokehouse to initiate the cool-down process for 10 to 15 minutes. Chill the product to meet USDA
requirements in the appropriate chiller for refrigerated storage and distribution. End user: Retherm product via boil-in-bag
method, in simmering water for about 10 minutes, to an internal temperature of 160F. Serve shredded lamb with warm
corn and/or flour tortillas, queso fresco, salsa rojo and salsa verde, and a mixture of chopped and rinsed onion, cilantro and
lime juice.