Apparel Production BRFL

Apparel Internship Report
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National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai

Summer Internship Report
at
Bombay Rayon Fashions Limited,
Doddaballapur, Bengaluru
A summer Internship Report for Partial fulfillment of the
Requirement for the award of Degree in
Bachelor of Fashion Technology-Apparel Production
Submitted By-
Abhishek Gautam
Ashutosh Kumar
Ashutosh Vatsa
Rajeev Kumar
Stanley George
Department of Fashion Technology
Batch 2009-13
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ACKNOWLDGEMENT
We wish to express our gratitude to everybody who has assisted in learning process during
this internship. There are many to whom expression of gratitude is inevitable, but there are
some special people who has to be given prominence, without whom we would not have
reached the conclusion of this Internship so quickly and efficiently.
We wish to thank our Professor, Mr. S. P. Jomichan for providing this wonderful
opportunity, challenging and motivation. We are also thankful to our Course Coordinator
Mr. Ranjan Kumar Saha and to all the other faculties of Department of Fashion Technology
for their support and guidance.
No amount of Gratitude is adequate for Mr. Anjan Mohanthy, Vice-President, Bombay
Rayon Fashions Ltd., for his consent in allowing us to conduct our internship in their
venerated institution.
We express our deep indebtedness to Mr. Attaulla Khan, HR manager who guided and
supported us through every stage of our internship.
We also wish to thank a couple of senior managers as listed below for their technical
guidance and assistance during internship.
Mr. Nagesh, GM, Unit-7A
Mr. Bhaskar, GM, Unit-7B
Mr. Shekhar, GM, Unit-7C
Mr. Manju Nath, Production manager, Unit-7A
Mr. Jagdeesh, Production Manager, Unit-7B
Mr. Venkatesh, Production Manager, Unit-7C
Mr. Chinappa, IE Manager, Unit-7A
Mr. Vinod O J, IE Manager, Unit-7B
Mr. Anand Kumar, IE Manager, Unit-7C
We take this opportunity to express our affection towards our parents for their consistent
faith and support.

Abhishek Gautam
Ashutosh Kumar
Ashutosh Vatsa
Rajeev Kumar
Stanley George
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Company Profile

For over two decades, Bombay Rayon Fashions is considered as Indias most venerable
manufacturers and exporters of fashion fabrics. A rather humble beGInning has today
converged into a vertically integrated textile conglomerate, offering comprehensive
capabilities from yarn dyeing to finished garments. With rapid growth Bombay Rayon
Fashions celebrates its glory with bright shades of triumph. Bombay Rayon manufactures
one of the most versatile and technically advanced fabrics and apparels in India.
Presently, GI is the l ar ges t s hi r t manuf ac t ur er in India. The fabric manufacturing
facilities are 50 mi l l i on met r es per annum. Our garment manufacturing facilities are
35 mi l l i on pi eces per annum.
Milestones:
1986 Bombay Rayon Group was established by Mr. Janardhan Agarwal.

1990 First fabric manufacturing facility came into existence in Maharashtra.

1998 Bombay Rayon group commenced export of fabrics.
2001 Garment division was launched.
2005 Bombay Rayon Groups business was consolidated into GI.
The company made a successful IPO and is listed on all the stock exchanges in India.
GI also acquired DPJ Cl ot hi ng U. K. , supplying to high street retailers in U.K.
2005 GI set up 7 garment manufacturing facilities in Bangalore with 7000 machines.
2007 GI acquired Leel a Scot t i s h Lac e one of the largest garment manufacturing
units set up in India, making GI one of the largest apparel groups in India.
2007 GI also acquired LNJ Appar el a 1000 machine specialized bottoms plant.
2007 GI marked the commencement of the mega USD 250 million textile and garment
project under a special MOU signed with the government of Maharashtra.
2008 GI acquired the iconic brand Gur u.

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Products
Fabrics
Bombay Rayon reigns as a leading supplier of quality fabrics worldwide. Understanding the
needs of this exciting industry, Bombay Rayon product line blend class and style in an
extensive collection of mens, womens & childrens clothing. The popularity over the years
is attributed to value based pricing in 100% cotton, polyester, viscose and their blends and
specialty fibers like lycra, modal, tencel, lyocell and polynosic.
Every fabric in the Bombay Rayon collection must pass the ultimate comfort test. Thats why
it take the time and expense to ensure it stays so unbelievably soft and comfortable. The
commitment to genuine Bombay Rayon quality shows in the fabrics used. Along with the
incredible fabrics and size offerings, at Bombay Rayon there are colours too vibrant and
subdued, classic and contemporary.

Apparel
Comfortable, pure and simple - thats what the Apparel Collection from Bombay Rayon is all
about. Great clothes in easy, contemporary styles made from soft, durable fabrics that all
enjoy wearing to the office, on the road and over the weekendwhenever and wherever
your active life takes them.
The collections are made up of true wardrobe essentials for todays work environment.
Whether anyone need a uniform for the team, a GIft or program item, Bombay Rayons
apparel collection has just the right looks to fit both casual and more formal occasions.
The corporate casual collection reduces the time and effort spent in looking great with
natural coordinating combinations everyone loves for both work and leisure. In this
collection of Bombay Rayon apparel, the company is proud to offer apparels of the highest
quality, with construction details that are evident in every style. The styles have the look
and functionality of outdoor apparel, but are made in everyday friendly fabrics that easily
transition into the workplace.
And the best part is, they are priced right. Value is a large part of the equation that's kept
the Bombay Rayon Apparel Collection so popular over the years. One can afford the best!

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Design Studio
16 fabric designers for yarn dyed and dobbies and prints.
24 garments designers for Men, Women and Kids Wear.
Collections
The factories are well equipped to manufacture up- to-the minute apparel for Men,
Women, and Kids. All the garment production facilities adhere to social compliances
obligatory to international buyers.
Home Textiles
Having newly ventured into home textiles segment, Bombay Rayon has already bagged
niche buyers in the US. With quality material and meticulous craftsmanship, its focus is on
export of beddings in both the adult and infant category. And with considerable experience
in the garment industry, it aspires to excel in this undertaking too with flying colours.
The state-of-the-art sampling units boast of in-house diGItal printing, baby rotary printing,
flat screen printing, sampling warpers for yarn dyed fabric, cad/cam design maker, dyeing ,
washing and embroidery.

Weaving Technology
and
Infrastructure
There are 6 weaving units in and around Mumbai
produce 29 million meters of the world class fabrics
annually. Stringent quality control at every stage of
production, high tech warping, ultra modern projectile,
rapier and air jet looms define state-of-the art weaving.
Equipment and technology from Japan, Korea, Germany
and Italy manufacture all types of weaves Plain, Dobby,
Twill, Herring Bone, and Mechanical Seersucker ensuring
adherence to high quality of all times.
Integrated Textile Mill Doddaballapur, Bengaluru
The first of its kind in India, this high-tech mill and composite setup with a project cost of
USD $ 60 Million, boasts of yarn dyeing, weaving, fabric processing i.e. dyeing & printing,
rotary + diGItal printing and garmenting all under one roof. Already installed are 2000
Embroidery Machine
Printing Sampling Unit
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garment machine with capacity of 22000 units per 8 hour shift along with value-added
facilities like Embroidery, Over Printing and Garment Washing. And with a promise of Short
Lead time to the key customers, Bombay Rayon offer a 30-day garment delivery period with
quickest turnaround time.

Testing Laboratories

Auto Lab
from
James Heal.
Fully automatic shade matching machine from Technorama.
Spectrophoto Meter from DataColor.
An array of other fabric testing equipment to establish and conform to high quality norms
specified by the overseas customers.
Processing Facilities
All types of fabric finish
Chintz, Liza, Carbon Peaching,
Embossing, Crushing, Wrinkle
Free, Coolmax, PU coating &
Ombrey printing. Machines
like Stenter from Bruckner,
Stork Engraving Machine,
Rotary printing machine from
Pegasus (16 color),
Continuous Bleaching Range,
Cold Pad batch from Kusters.

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Other Facilities
There are other facilities like Embroidery, Laundry and DiGItal Printing.
Technology
Bombay Rayon Fashions Limited has partnered with Datatex and SAP to implement a
companywide Enterprise Resource Planning tool (ERP) to cover all textile and garmenting
processes under one roof.
Datatex specializes in the Textile and Garment industry. Today there are over 11500
workstations using datatex ERP in 38 countries in 14 different languages. Its customers
include some of the world's largest and most important textile manufacturers. Datatex
serves its international customers through its offices in Italy, Israel, the USA, Germany &
Switzerland.

The Financial expertise will come from SAP through their SAP FICO module. The ERP will sit
on state of the art IBM servers which will be housed in fully redundant in-house Data Center
in the Doddaballapur facility.

Overseas Subsidiaries
GI Europe
Located in Netherlands, the wholly-owned subsidiary of
Bombay Rayon offers the customers the advantage of
latest design trends in the European markets.
GI in the U.K.
Along with importing goods for the U. K. market, the
subsidiary, DPJ Clothing Ltd. supplies goods on LDP
(landed Duty Paid) basis to high street retailers in U.K. and offers the customers the
advantage of latest design trends globally.

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NEW TIE UPS :

1. Acquisition of Garment Business of Leela Scottish Lace (P) Ltd.

Highlights of Leela Lace Garment business

Established Garment Manufacturer and Exporter for over 30 years
Export of Garments to US Customers like Wal-Mart Store Inc., The
GAP, Banana Republic, Ann Taylor Abercombie and Fitch Trading Co
etc.
16 factories at different locations at Bangalore, Chennai,
Thiruvananthapuram, Kochi
Over 16,000 workers
Capacity of more than 50,000 pieces per day
Export of Rs. 380 crores for FY07 with EBIDTA of Rs. 40 crores

Total consideration of Rs. 155 crores for acquiring Garment Business funded through
Equity of Rs. 38.75 crores from GI & Term Loan of Rs. 116.25 crores from EXIM Bank
of India.

Opportunities for the Group to cater all segments of Garments with expanded
capacities and new facilities.

2. Acquired the garment manufacturing unit LNJ Apparel of RSWM Ltd

Acquired the garment manufacturing unit LNJ Apparel of RSWM Ltd, an LNJ
Bhilwara group company for Rs 255 million in October 2007.

The unit is located at Bangalore having capacity of 800 pieces of garments (casual
and formal trousers).

3. Acquired Garment Business of Maryan Apparels Private Limited

Acquired the garment unit of the Company for Rs. 147.40 million in March 2008.

The unit is located in Trivendram, having a manufacturing capacity of 5,000 pieces
per day.

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ADDITIONAL UNITS :

Setting up of the largest textile weaving, processing and garmenting facility under a
special MOU signed with the government of Maharashtra with an investment of USD
250 million.
The project entails:
million metres per day capacity textile mill to be operational by Oct. 2008
Setting up of garment manufacturing facility with a capacity of 50,000 pieces per day.
This mill will enable the group to achieve economies of scale which will compete with
the Chinese prices.
GIs capacity (Post expansion)
Fabric - 0.7million metres per day
Garments - 1,50,000 pieces per day

TAKING OVER OF BRAND GURU & RETAIL BUSINESS :

In April, 2008, the Company has taken over the Brand Guru
an d other retail business of Jam Session Holding S.r.l (Jam)
through GI Italia S.r.l. (GI Italia), a company promoted by GI
Europe B.V, a wholly owned subsidiary of Bombay Rayon
Retail Limited. The holding Company of these Companies is
Bombay Rayon Fashions Limited.
Guru has 15 retail stores/outlets and 9 franchises
spread all over Europe mainly in Spain, Italy,
Netherlands and in Dubai.
The trade Mark GURU is a reGIstered trade mark in Italy and other countries
including India.
GURU is an established up market Retail Brand with substantial goodwill.
The total consideration of the taking over of Business is 33 millions by
exercising the Call/Put option within 42 months & till then GI operates the
Business on Lease basis.

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Compliances
Social Compliance
Corporations do not create a team. Its a good team that creates a good corporation. At
Bombay Rayon fully realize this fact and provide the team with the best working and social
environment. From a creatively inclined office to an eco-sensitive manufacturing
infrastructure, Bombay Rayon adhere to the highest international standards by using eco-
friendly dyes and chemicals that ensure welfare of consumers and sanctity of the
environment.
Environmental Compliance
The Doddaballapur unit has a 100% zero discharge effluent treatment plant based on the
distillation principle, strictly within the most stringent pollution control norms specified by
the state and the central government. All the fabric dyeing, garment dyeing, washing and
chemical treatment facilities are OEKOTEX compliant making the unit a completely GREEN
PROJ ECT.
Quality Control
The stringent quality assurance measures taken by the company include thorough checking
of all raw material and other inputs right down to finished goods. Statistical methods
identify and analyze areas of improvement, experienced manpower ensures adherence to
the highest quality and creation of database provides for future reference and analysis.
Every division is well equipped with up-to-date quality checking and testing equipment,
reiterating the companys philosophy of providing quality products to the customers at all
times.
Life at GI
GI realize that only by employing the best people it can produce outstanding products of the
highest quality and provide first class service. It is not enough, however, to simply recruit
the best, GI recognize that it must provide a professional, ethical working environment that
GIves equal opportunity for all and facilitates continued training and personal development.
GI is committed to:
Assisting employees to develop their skills and knowledge.
Recognizing and rewarding performance.
Promoting equality of opportunity with absolute intolerance of discrimination,
victimization or harassment.
Providing a workplace that adheres to strict health and safety practices and
operating in an environmentally-responsible manner.
GI emphasize on conducting and maintaining relationships with their customers and
employees in an honest, open and trustworthy manner.

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Clients
L I Z C L AI R B OR NE US A
DK NY US A
E NY C E US A
K E L L WOOD US A
R OC AWE AR US A
V F C ORP OR AT I ON US A & E UR OP E
H & M S T ORE S E UROP E
C & A E UROP E
Z AR A E UROP E
C HAR L E S V OE GE L E E UROP E
GE OR GE UK
DE BE NHAMS UK
NE X T UK
B UR T ONS UK
T OP MAN UK
R E P L AY & S ONS I T AL Y
K I AB I S T OR E S F RANCE
T OM T AI L OR GE RMANY
C OL I N S J E ANS T UR K E Y
C AR R E F O UR F RANCE
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T E S CO UK
GAP I NC US A
GUR U I T AL Y
GAS I T AL Y
MARK & S P E NC E R UK
R E E B OK US A
J AC K & J ONE S E UROP E
ONL Y E UR OP E
OY S HO E UR OP E
S P R I NG F I E L D
P R OMOD
B I AGGI NNI
WAL MART
B HS
MUDO
C OL UMB I A
L E E C OOP E R
P ANT AL OONS

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Process flow of company

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MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

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At B.R.F.L, the merchandising can be divided in two parts:
Marketing Merchandising
Product Merchandising
MARKETING MERCHANDISING
Main functions of marketing merchandising are:
Product development
Costing
Getting Purchase Orders
It brings the order, develops the product, and does the costing. It has a direct access
to the Buyer.
PRODUCT MERCHANDISING
This is from sourcing to finishing that is from first sample onwards, the product
merchandising work starts and ends till the shipment.
For each style the related merchandiser maintains a package file.

WORKING PROCEDURE

1. Buyer contact B.R.F.L with style detail and price at which the garment is required.
2. CONSUMPTION:
The merchandiser takes the style to the master and in his consultation the
consumption of the fabric and trims is decided.
3. COSTING:
Merchandiser does the costing as follows:
Fabric cost: Fabric consumption x Fabric cost.
Trim cost: Trims item quantity x Trims cost.
Total material cost: Fabric cost + Trims cost.
Add 5% extra for finance and handling, add cut make pack charges.
Total FOB = Total material cost + 5 % for finance and handling + CMP charges.
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4. LEAD TIME:
Lead time of 90 days is taken from the order confirmation.
The fabrics are all imported and so 60 days to be in housed.
30 days for fabric manufacturing and 30 days for shipment of fabric.
The production time is also kept in mind and delivery date is fixed by the buyer.
5. ORDER CONFIRMATION:
The FOB is quoted to the buyer along with the delivery date and if it is convenient for
the buyer the order is confirmed.
The quantity to be made and the color required are decided upon.
6. BILL OF MATERIAL:
The merchandiser prepares the purchase requisition or BOM for the order and the
purchase department orders for the materials within 48 hours of receiving the BOM.
The material may be from two sources:
a. Nominated Suppliers.
b. Non Nominated Supplier.
If the material are purchased from non-nominated suppliers it is necessary to go
through procedure like sample making and approval from merchandiser, price
quoting for fabric, final price decision and color and quantity decision.
Test requirement for the fabric and trims required by the buyer are mostly verified
by the suppliers itself.
7. SAMPLING:
Parallel after order confirmation the merchandiser handover the sampling section
for making the proto sample with substitute fabric and trims.
After its approval the PP samples (pre production) is made with the exact trims and
fabric.
8. PRODUCTION DETAIL:
Once the production begins the merchandiser follows up the garment manufacture
and communicates any changes required by the buyer to the factory.
After production and shipment of the order the merchandiser must communicate
the details like time of departure of the ship, reaching time and custom clearance
document to the buyer.
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Records And Formats Maintained In The Merchandising
Department
S.No. FORMAT /DOCUMENT NAME PURPOSE OF USE
1 Sample Evaluation report This report is maintained for all the samples
evaluated and inspected by the merchandisers.
It has the records of all the comments and
changes suggested.
2 Internal Approval Swatch Card This is a general Swatch Card which is used to
attach the fabrics used for the styles and orders
after their approvals from the buyers. There are
three swath cards from the fabric are
maintained from three places in the fabric roll.
3 Sales Order Documentation The merchandisers maintain a record of all the
sales orders raised for the procurement of all
the materials for the order. One of the most
important job of the merchandiser is to follow
up the status of the materials which have been
ordered, to ensure the timely availability of the
materials to the production.
4 Consumption confirmation chart This chart is made by taking the consumption
details from the sampling department for all
the sizes in the style of the order. These
consumption details are obtained from the CAD
markers. The consumption is in terms of Kg. of
fabric required for all the fabric types in the
garment.
5 Material Requisition This format is filled up by the merchandiser and
sent to the fabric stores for requesting material
for sample development. If the material is not
available, the fabric sourcing team is informed
the quantity and quality required.
6 Sampling Job Order. This is a formal order raised to the Sampling
department instructing the quantity and types
of samples to be made for the styles. The
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tentative dates for sample preparation are also
mentioned and the reference numbers for al
the Technical Folders is mentioned.
7 Minutes of Order Clarity Meeting The Head Merchandiser conducts an Order
Clarity Meeting. Here all the details of the order
booked are provided to the Factory. The OCM
minutes are maintained by each merchandiser
for future reference in case of some
discrepancies arising in between the merchants
and the factory. ( i.e. Production related
departments)
8 Delivery Challan (D.C.) The merchandising delivers the samples made
to the buyers representatives. For the same
purpose, a DC is made in which is listed the
details of the order no., style no., no. of
garments and color. This is a formal procedure
for transferring goods from one place to
another.
9 Garment hangtags All the hangtags required in the garment are
maintained by the merchandiser as a separate
file. They are the ones which come in the
company for the sampling procedure and the
order is placed only after their approval.
10 Inter office Memo This is a common document used by every
department. In cases where some
communication needs to be made to other
departments, the sheets are manually written
and carried by the Office Assistant.
11 Sampling cost sheet The costs incurred while sampling is maintained
in this document.

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Formats And Materials Received By The Merchandising
Department

S.No FORMAT/MATERIAL PURPOSE OF USE
1 Size set and pilot run reports.

The size set and pilot run reports deal with all the
points worth listing for the garment. This includes
the measurement details for all the parameters as
well as the quality tests according to the buyers
requirements.
2 Tech Packs

The Tech packs are the guidelines provided by the
buyer for the garment construction and raw material
sourcing. As already stated in the details of the
Technical Folder, all the information can be obtained
from this. It is provided by the buyer to the
merchandiser.
3 Purchase orders

Purchase orders are a formal announcement of the
order booked by the merchandiser for the factory.
This has all the details of the order quantity,
shipment dates and destination. The style numbers,
item numbers and the Movex numbers are
mentioned by the company.
4 Buyer OriGInal Samples

The samples which are used as the reference for
constructing samples by the company are provided
by the buyer. The sourcing team also works out the
fabric details and the finish of the garment from the
samples.
5 Customer Complaint Details

The merchandiser maintains the complaint details
for every sample and every order dispatched coming
under his buyer.
6 Shipment details

The dates, mode of shipment, mode of payment,
Letter of Credit details and destination of shipment
are provided to the merchandiser by the Dispatch
department.
7 Sampling Development file

The sample department maintains this file and sends
the copies to the merchandiser concerned.
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PRODUCTION PLANNING AND
CONTROL

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Process Flow of Production Planning Department

PLANNING DEPARTMENT
PLANNING BOARD
ORDER STATUS
FILE RELEASE TO FACTORY
PRODUCTION
SHIPMENT
PAYMENT
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Introduction
Production planning and control department plans for a new style.
The plan for which the order goes to which factory is decided in the head office by
means of a master plan considering the following:
1. The production order.
2. Various styles and sizes.
3. The delivery date of the order.
4. The number of machine available for production.
5. Types of machine required.
6. Efficiency of the unit.
7. Storage capacity of the unit.
First the files prepared by merchants in the head office are sending to suitable
factory.
Planning department also checks if all the input such as fabric, sewing trims, and
packing trims are in place and send to factory.

WORKING PROCEDURE
Receive the production order from head office and check the delivery date.
Check the fabric and trims status (whether in-house or not).
Sample study and pattern check take print and embroidery approval if any and
ensure ready patterns are made.
Check for any abnormality of fabric and trims and list the precautions to be taken
while cutting and sewing.
Communicate the urgency of the order and the precautionary measures to all
concerned through the pre-production meeting.
Issues a weekly cut plan to the cutting department considering 75% of GSD target.
Ensure that the cutting is as per the plan and the embroidered and printed parts are
completed and arrive to the unit in time.
The loading plan is prepared for production which decides the batches in which style
is to be loaded.
Finally garments are packed according to the buyer needs and send for shipment.
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The plan for which the order goes to which factory is decided in the head office by
means of a master plan considering the following:
1. The production order.
2. Various styles and sizes.
3. The delivery date of the order.
4. The number of machine available for production.
5. Types of machine required.
6. Efficiency of the unit.
7. Storage capacity of the unit.
First the files prepared by merchants in the head office are sending to suitable
factory.
Planning department also checks if all the input such as fabric, sewing trims, and
packing trims are in place and send to factory.

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MAINTAINENCE DEPARTMENT

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INTRODUCTION
Maintenance department is responsible for maintaining all electrical and
mechanical system.
Maintenance department maintain all wires, motors, iron tables, fusing
machine, sewing machine, cutting machine, spot wash, snap fastness, air
compressor etc.
FUNCTION OF THE MAINTAINENCE DEPARTMENT
Regular scheduling.
Sewing of machine.
Checking of boiler for steam.
Electricity supply-starting the generator during power off.
Machine oil changes once every 3months.
Motor blowing and cleaning.
Replacement of the defective parts.
Suggesting new work aids and attachments.

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE IN SEWING MACHINE
ROUTINE:
General cleaning of machine.
Broken needle replacement.
Machine has to be properly covered.
MONTHLY:
Cleaning of machine.
Oil to be filtered and refilled and oil level to be checked.
Lubrication system checking.
Machine stand, bolts to be checked and tightened.
Belt tension to be checked and adjusted.
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QUARTERLY:
Thread stand/bobbin winder/belt guard to be checked.
Motor bearing to be lubricated.
Clutch liner to be checked.
Switch or starters to be checked.
Oil to be checked.

CUTTING MACHINE

ROUTINE:
Lubricating oil cup.
Cleaning the machine or knife.
FORTNIGHTLY:
Lubricating bearing.
Motor part inside cleaning.
Checking capacitor connection.

BAND KNIFE:

ROUTINE:
Lubrication of oil monthly.
Motor belt tension to be checked.
Motor cleaning and bearing lubrication.
Sharpened device to be checked.
Screw shaft greasing to be done.
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FUSING MACHINE

ROUTINE:
Convey belt-removing paste residue.
MONTHLY:
Tension spring to be checked.
Filter or regulator check water level.
Chain- checks lubrication.
Roller shaft bearing to be lubricated.
Air cylinder-valves to be lubricated.

FINISHING MACHINE

STEAM IRON BOX:
WEEKLY:
Check steam flow.
Check micro switch function.
Check steam hose connection.
Check thermostat function.
IRON TABLE:
MONTHLY:
Lubrication for motor bearing.
Check impeller tightness.
Check table foam or cloth etc.
HALF YEARLY:
Motor inside to be cleaned.
Table foam and cloth to be replaced.
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STAIN REMOVING MACHINE:
MONTHLY:
Spray gun to be checked.
Vacuum motor inserted to be checked with blower.
Compressor to be checked.
OPERATOR RESPONSIBILITIES (MORNING)
Clean the machine and table using waste fabric.
Check the needle is straight and the needle point is good.
Check the threading of machine and bobbin tension.
Sew on waste fabric and check for SPI and for proper stitch formation.
EVENING:
Clean the machine, feed dog, pressure foot, thread stand , bobbin case
holder, needle bar, pressure foot bar etc.
Check the oil reservoir for oil level and foreign material.
Place piece of fabric under pressure foot.
Cover the machine head.

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Unit -9

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Centralized ware house
g. Printing
1. sampling
2. canteen
Hrd
Gn off.

Canteen
Cruch

Hospital
Toilets

Boiler
room

Centralized cutting unit

Embroidery finishing washing

Parking

Garden

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SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

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Process Flow Chart of Sampling Department

Technical Team
Receive Tech pack and sample from the merchant
File and sample study in order to simplify the style, the same will be discussed
with the buyer technician.
After study the file will be issued to pattern department with shrinkage analysis.
Pattern cross check with file/sample than programmed BRFL went to cutting.
Online Audit
Before Wash Checking (visual/spec)
After wash checking visual /spec and wash standard BRFLven by concern
merchant.
After sample evaluation/ passed required will be send to merchant after
external audit.
Sample offer to external technician with pattern file/counter sample and internal audit
report, sample passed handover to merchant.
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Introduction
PURPOSE OF SAMPLING
Procurement of order.
Order confirmation.
Final look of the garment.
For knowing the critical areas.
For knowing the cost of production.
Operations required.
Machines required.
Work aids and attachment required.
No of workers required.
Accessories required.
Process Of Sampling Department
1. PROCESS OF RECEIVING INDENT:
On receipt of indent long on to sample status report with following information:
Buyer name,
Style number,
PO number,
Description,
Fabrication information,
Size required,
Quantity required,
Style type,
Committed date based on type of sample and wash,
Washing, EMB, print details,
Technical manager responsibility,
Actual sent date.
34 | P a g e

G.I counter sample together with relevant comments as well as set of fabric, trims
and approved wash standard must be submitted from marketing.
Trims will be cross check against buyers PDM, fabric will be measured for sufficiency
against number of pieces requested.
For all wash programs the shrinkage will be tested from Technical department
marked 50*50 cm on the fabric, based on the recipe/wash standard provided by the
merchant and the same shall be forwarded to pattern department.
Sample exit date will be advised based on standard lead-time including pattern
corrections.
5 working days for non-wash,
6 working days for non-wash EMB and screen-print,
7 working days for non-wash and wrinkle free process,
9 working days for over dye program.
Indent along with previous/pinned sample will be passed to pattern department for
correction after technical manager and I.E evaluation.
2. PRE-SAMPLE MAKING PROCESS AND ACTIVITIES:
Technical manager will in tract with patter department for correct comments
incorporating.
Technical manager will check patterns before cutting activities and any inaccuracies
will be confirmed with pattern department.
Super-imposed pattern will be crossed checked with GIven comments by the buyer.
Fabric handling and matching parameters will be confirmed from marketing to
technical manager.
Fusing test and shrinkage is conducted on each fabric so accurate tolerance can be
added to the patterns. Fusing test report and iron shrinkage test will be tested
within in-house machine facility and the end result will be incorporated on the net
pattern.
For all non-wash programs iron shrinkage is performed.
3. CUTTING:
Sample indent enclosed with size information, quantity and fabric color with face
side approval will be provided to refer in prior to cutting.
Pre sample meeting with technical manager will be done in presence of cutters and
cutting in-charge.
35 | P a g e

Pre-sample meeting format will be filled by the technical manager with the required
details for cutting on cut direction, matching parameters.
Cutting can only be done after technical manager will explain to cutting in charge
about the style.
Style required EMB and screen print must be cut and sent for EMB and screen print
unit.
Clear understanding of GIven information is confirmed in the indent file by cutting in
charge.

4. SAMPLE MAKING:
Pre sample meeting must be held from technical manager with sewing supervisor
before sewing activities can start.
Clear understanding of GIven information is confirmed in the indent file by sewing
supervisor.
Sample inline inspection will be audited by internal quality auditor on the semi
finished /assembled garment for construction/sewing quality in presence of sewing
supervisor.
5. INTERNAL QUALITY AUDIT PROCESS:
Internal quality auditors will join the pre sample meeting along with the technical
manager and sewing supervisor to ensure the points discussed are followed in the
line.
Inline inspection will be conducted to ensure the finished garments from the sewing
line are correct for construction and specified as per the pattern specification
provided.
Garments finished from sewing will be reviewed for initial sewing quality audit.
Before iron/pressing samples evaluation will be audited and recorded.
Finished garments will be passed on to finishing department for trimming extra
threads, removing the stains on the garments.
Garments will be passed to pressing section for ironing/pressing with instructions
from concerned technical manager.
For all wash programs before wash specification will be evaluated and sent for
pressing/ironing as per the required standard.
The pressed garments will be again evaluated against the buyer specifications.
36 | P a g e

Finally the finished garments will be packed and kept ready for buyer quality auditor
for review.
The finished sample shall be offered to buyer Q/A with the sample file, super
imposed patterns, garment review sheet along with the wash standard, recipe and
shrinkage information.
The reviewed sample will be packed enclosing the pinned sample/buyer sloper if
applicable, tracing, nested copy if required, sample evaluation chart and top review
sheet forwarded to concerned merchants.

6. FINISHING:
Finished garments will be taken for trimming extra threads and removing the stains
on the garments.
Pressing the garments will be done on the instruction provided by the technical
manager.
Kaja button, snaps, buttonhole etc will be processed on the garment by referring the
marks on the pattern for placement.
Buttoning, snaps will be as per the quality provided by the buyer technical pack
concerned the technical manager for quality and quantity requirements.
7. TECHNICAL MANAGERS ATTENDING PPM IN FACTORIES:
Technical manager will attend pre production meeting (PPM) in the factories
explaining the process involved while developing sample section.
Detailing about fabric nature and providing required information about the fabric,
advising the fabric lay procedure.
For all wash programs will explain the usage of shrinkage patterns based on the
shrinkage information available.
Discussing cutting parameters based on the buyer standard requirements and nature
of the fabric.
Advising interlining placement and fusing parameters required as per the standard
approved.
Trims usage on the garments will be advised for placement and usage after/before
wash.
37 | P a g e

Thread size/ticket information, needle size, SPI and placement will be explained
based on the buyers standard and nature of the fabric.
Explaining sewing seam allowance and discussing on special operation like feed off
arm, French seam and blind hem.
Explaining quality standards as per buyer standard.
Explaining about HOW TO MEASURE with the buyer manual available.
Explaining pressing/ironing standards based on buyer standards.
8. G.I SEWING TECH PACK PREPARATION:
Factory tech packs will be prepared with listing out the below mentioned activities
briefly.
Technical specification with the three dimension digitals of the sample will be
enclosed.
Cutting instruction with details of bundling information.
Quality audit diagram Giving details on checkpoint for quality audits.
Trims/accessory placement details.
Operation bulleting, listing out the various types of operation, thread quality, seam
allowance, SPI, needle size and comments to follow.
Parts and attachment specifications with the digital of machinery attachment listing
out the required operation for using this attachment.
9. G.I EMBROIDERY TECH PACK PREPARATION:
Technical specification for embroidery in detail with thread quality, color and
consumption will be enclosed.
Handling information will be provided.
Check list to confirm embroidery design.
Design drawing is enclosed.
Placement will be directly embossed on the patterns.

38 | P a g e

Types of Samples
1. PROTO SAMPLES:
Samples made with substitute fabric and trims.
2. FIT AND DEVELOPMENT SAMPLE:
Usually consist of certain change in the construction and design as per buyers needs.
3. PRE- PRODUCTION SAMPLE:
Three sample of a basic size are made with the exact fabric and trims.
4. SIZE SET SAMPLE:
Sample in various size required are made for approval in actual fabric and trims.
5. SALES MAN SAMPLE:
These samples are made with actual fabric and trims to judge the saleable value of
the order.
6. QUALITY REFERENCE:
Sample verified by the quality manager or a buyer QC to be used as a reference
during production.
Often the buyers ask for only proto samples approved and the pre- production
sample directly after which the bulk production begins.

Documents Maintained
Daily sampling program.
Pattern marker daily report.
Cutters report.
Individual tailor report.
Daily sampling status.
Weekly sampling status.
Daily pattern status.
Weekly pattern status.
39 | P a g e

Centralized ware house

All units of Bombay rayon fashion limited in Bangalore receives fabric and trims
from CWH.

Fabric ware house

Fabric store is controlled by the fabric manager who is responsible for all fabric in house by
time at the same width which merchandiser demands. There is one field supervisor who
looks after for all printing and dying operations. He is supposed to visit all suppliers for
timely and adequate delivery. The job responsibility of supervisor is to get target of checking
fabric achieved by checkers. Clerks are to keep all records regarding width, price, fabric in
house date, and demand note and day wise details of fabric.
Location system of storage is followed. Fabric packages are stored in two areas: (a)
Checked Fabric and (b) Unchecked Fabric.

Fabric ware house in unit -9 is a centralized ware house. All units of Bombay rayon fashion
limited getting fabric from CWH.
They have Hugh capacity for fabric storage, around 40 lakh meter fabric.
Their total Storage area=60,000 sq. feet. They have handling capacity of around 16 lakh
meter fabric per day.

40 | P a g e

Inspectionines-4 mac
Ins
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ma
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nes
toilet
Overlo
ck
machin
es
Inspection table
Shade
groupi
ng
Marki
ng for
shrink
age
Racks
for
reject
ed and
hold
fabric
office stairs
fabric Trims and fusing
41 | P a g e

PROCESS FLOW CHART

fail
pass
42 | P a g e

Functions of Fabric Store
The basic functions of the fabric store are:
Receive the fabric
Quality assessment
Issue fabric
Receive the fabric-
Fabric store get the p.o order information regarding to the incoming fabric from
merchandiser. During fabric reception they need following documents from supplier side-
1. supplier D.C - quantity
2. P.O copy-to verifies description. color
3. Transport copy
After verification regarding to quantity and description, these items are to be stored
separately in specified racks after entering these items in the Stage software and prepare
necessary Goods Receipt Note. Inform shortages / Excess quantity received to
Merchandiser Department concerned for necessary action. If the supply exceeds 105 % of
the order quantity, organize to return the excess quantity to the Supplier.
It is the responsibility of fabric stores in-charge to store the fabric safely & correctly.
The fabric stores in charge records every day fabric stock in Fabric Stock ReGIster.
After verification they inform quality team .so further process carried out by quality
department before permanent storage of fabric.
Senior manager responsibilities -
Maintain Storage and Segregation of Fabric for production.
Maintain Storage of dead stock.
Maintain basic stock.
Co-ordinate fabric flow between cutting, processing, and audit department.
Coordination between the Suppliers, Fabric processing, audit and cutting
Department.
Maintain account and documents in order to ensure regular flow of fabric and no
shortage.

43 | P a g e

Quality assessment-
After fabric reception, quality department start their work. First quality department
perform following tasks-
1. shrinkage report
2. Inspection
3. Shade group report

Shrinkage report-
The Fabric QA dept. supplies the fabric for shrinkage check. For shrinkage they goes
for 100% shrinkage checking. So, they send fabric bit from each roll. The fabric bit (1
bit) =60*60 cm. Then on that they mark 50*50 send it to washing dept. in washing
the real shrinkage measure. Shrinkage in charge prepares the report and submits to
QA manger. These reports goes to the sewing quality manger for shrinkage group
decision.
Sewing quality manager decides that which shrinkage roll comes in same shrinkage
group and each shrinkage group keep one pattern.
After receiving shrinkage group report they submit same report to paten master and
cutting department. Pattern master prepare the patterns according to these report
only .And issue to cutting department according to these report only.

1. Inspection-
The Fabric received are to be checked to find defects, shades and width variations
using 4 Point system by using the Fabric checking machine or Table. As far as
possible avoid use of Tables for checking. Display the various types of defects for
easy reference of the Checker. The acceptance criteria for various fabrics like Mill
made , Power Loom and Hand Loom vary and hence use the right criteria (
points ) as specified by Buyer / Fabric Department.
A minimum of 10 % of the Rolls (Random selection) are to be checked. If the defect
level exceeds the allowed limit, 100 % of the Rolls may be inspected after getting
approval from concerned. Display Fabric defect standards (clearly marked
Acceptable and Not Acceptable) and the criteria points per sq. yard / meters for
passing the rolls / bales as accepted or rejected.
In case, the Fabric rolls / bales gets rejected ( for reasons of defects, shade
variation, shrinkage variation more than allowed limits ) they hold the fabric until
they dont get approval from merchandiser .If merchandiser reject than they store
the fabric in the specified rack marked Rejected Items.
Follow the procedure, laid out for returning the rejected items to the Supplier. Raise
the Goods Inspection Note for the passed items as specified. Store the Fabric with
proper Identification Tag (containing details like P.O. No., date of receipt, Delivery
note no., quantity received, number of rolls / bales, Shade details , Type of Fabric,
Supplier details etc.).
44 | P a g e

Office records should record the Rack number, where the item is stored for easy
trace ability.Single item should be kept in single rack location and never mix up
fabrics of different O.C.s / P.O.s.
Prepare Report in specified format and send it to the concerned (like Fabric
Department, Marketing Department etc.). In case of deviation / short supply,
highlight it, to take necessary action.

Fault Size Point Assigned Sticker color
0 to 3 inches 1 Yellow
3 to 6 inches 2 Green
6 to 9 inches 3 Blue
9 & above 4 Red

Acceptance/rejection of fabric
Penalty points found per 100 meter Action
40 points in power loom fabric Accept the lot
30 points in mill-made and imported fabric Accept the lot
40 60 points in power-loom fabric Substandard lot
More than 30 points in mill-made & in imported fabric Rejection of lot
More than 60 points in power-loom fabric Rejection of lot
45 | P a g e

Common fabric defects:
Weaving defects
Missing picks
End out
Mixed filling
Mixed ends
Dropped pick
Slubs
Yarn distortion
Weft bar
Pattern fault
Dobby faults
Stop marks
Smash
Holes, etc.

Dyeing/printing/finishing defects
Bowing
Color Bleeding
Puckering
Stains
Skewed or biased
Selvedge variation
Scrimp etc.

Samples For Shade Band

Cut approximately 7 inches x 3 inches samples from each roll. Write the Roll no./
Bale no. in each sample along with O.C. No./ P.O. No., supplier, date of receipt ,
width etc. Mark grain direction.
Make shade band of the Rolls received and accepted. Similarly make 4 to 6 sets of
shade Bands for distribution as specified to Marketing and Factories.
Marketing department will take it up with the Fabric Manager / Buyers
Representative and provide the shade category (like shade A, shade B etc). Use Light
Box with specified Light for shade segregation.
If any center to selvedge shade variation problem occurs, such rolls are marked
separately and should be advised to the CAD and Cutting section for revised Pattern
Layout

46 | P a g e

2. Issue material to CCU or other units
After this the Fabric Cutting Chart is received from the Cutting section head. In this
chart the meters of fabric required by the cutting room is GIven.
After this the sub store in-charge receives the Fabric Width and Shade Report. Thus
according to the various shades, the fabrics are separated shade wise.
Then the merchandiser sends the Lab Test Report and Shrinkage Report. This
contains the results of the tests that are carried out in the unit lab.
Next the in-charge receives the Fabric Quality Inspection Summary. This contains the
inspection details of the fabric. This report also shows the status of the fabric.
The in-charge then receives the Mini Marker from the merchandiser. This is also
called the YY Sheet. This sheet contains the quantity of fabric required per garment
(yy = meters/garment).
Based on this the in-charge prepares a chart. This chart contains the fabric details
(Swatch, Color, Order Quantity and the quantity required). The in-charge calculates
the quantity of fabric required after adding the waste percentage.
2 % is added as a waste percentage for fabric. 3 % is added for the rejection of
garments. Hence, a total of 5 % of the order quantity is added. This is the total
quantity of the fabric required to be ordered from the main stores.
This chart is sent to the merchandiser and the required quantity of the fabric is
ordered.

Storing and Issue to Factories

Based on the above information from Lab and Marketing, it is preferable to
segregate the Rolls / Bales in various Shades and Group Shrinkage percentage wise
and store them in the specified Racks with proper Identification Tag.
This procedure is useful to avoid mix-up of various shades and shrinkage bands. The
stores register should contain all the relevant details along with the Rack no, (where
it is stored).
While issuing to Production, issue as per shade band and shrinkage segregation wise.
Issue the Shade band along with the materials to Factories.

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TRIMS AND ACCESSORIES STORE

48 | P a g e

PROCESS FLOW CHART OF TRIMS AND ACCESSORIES DEPARTMENy

office
Secu-
rity
toliet
dgmt
Recie
ving

Inspection
area

Inspection
area
storage racks,
buyer wise
Rcived goods
49 | P a g e

Process Flow Chart of Trims Store

TRIMS RECEIVED
PHYSICAL VERIFICATION OF
TRIMS
10% QUALITY AUDIT
100%INSPECTION IF AUDIT FAILS
STORAGE OF INCOMING GOODS
STORAGE OF TRIMS IN
APPROPRIATE RACKS

ISSUE TO BATCHES
50 | P a g e

Introduction
Function of the stores
Proper stocking of all the trims and accessories received and maintaining the inward
and outward register.
100% physical inspection.
Taking approval from the merchandiser of the trims received.
Follow up of the balance material required for particular style feature.
Dispatch the accessories required for production to the trims without delay.
Procedure:
All the Trims like, Zippers, Buttons, Snaps, various types of Labels, Threads, Tapes, Draw
cords, Elastics, D Rings are to be checked at the receiving point for Quantity & Quality.
This has to be done O.C. # / P.O. # wise and item wise.
o Allot area for Incoming Goods and mark on the Rack concerned. Incoming
goods to be stored here.
o Allot area for Inspected O.K. Goods and mark on the Rack concerned. All
inspected & accepted goods to be stored here.
o Allot area for Rejected goods (Inspection / Audit failed) to be stored here
and to be disposed off as per instructions.
o Allot area for Inspection and mark as Inspection Area. Provide Table with
White Laminate and light illumination of minimum 1200 lux.
o Allot area for Return to Supplier. In case of excess material receipt, the
excess material to be returned to supplier. Only 5 % excess material than
ordered should be accepted. The remaining to be returned to supplier. In
case, if excess material received free of cost, this should be accounted
separately as per instructions. )
o Display approved Trim Cards, AQL chart, Other Instructions etc in the Display
Board provided.
o All incoming Trims must be - 10 % (or AQL 2.5 or as specified) (Random
selection) - checked. If the items fail during Audit, 100 % of the items to be
audited. Results to be recorded in the concerned Formats and circulated to
the specified staff for necessary action.

51 | P a g e

Trims inspection:
1. Quantity check: Compare the Receipt quantity with the Order quantity and ensure
that is O.K. If there is any deviation, please take it up with the concerned for
necessary action.
2. Visual check: Check the items for shade, color, Type, Style, write up etc., as per
Specification sheet. If required, wash the appropriate Trims as per specification to
see that shade variation, bleeding do not take place. In case of deviation, take it up
with the concerned for necessary action.
3. Measurement check: Check the items for measurement to ensure they confirm to
specification.
4. After ensuring that everything is O.K., make the Trim Card in specified sets and get
it approved by concerned merchandising Staff and issue it to the concerned.
5. Issue the materials to the Factory concerned as per O.C. / P.O. copy and as specified
along with Trim Card.
Trims store in the factory:

Trims and Accessories Stores at Factories have to make the Quantity check for all the Items
they receive from the Main - Trims & Accessories Stores. Copies of the Test results are to be
received from the Main Stores along with the consignment for reference. In case, the Tests
are not conducted at the Mains stores, Factory should organize for all the necessary tests
and keep the records for reference.
First of all, the trims store in-charge receives the PO copy. This PO copy contains
various details such as the Sample Date, Prototype Sample, Order chart, RMR.
The trim store in-charge takes out only the Raw Material Status Report (RMR). This
report GIves the details as to the which trims are to be received, the consumption
per garment, the required qty, the qty ordered, the qty received and the balance left
to receive.
When the trims are received, the unit checks them and makes an Inward Challan. 3%
extra is always added as for wastage considerations.
The trims store head maintains a Daily Status Report of the trims that are issued
from the main store and the balance left yet to receive. This is maintained for the
internal reference of the trims store.
The inspection of the trims and accessories is done in the main unit itself. Hence,
when the trims are received, they are only stored and issued to the production at
the trims store.
However, for buttons counting is done. Inspection is done in case of Labels and
Shrinkage test for Elastic. Only 1 roll or 1 box in the whole quantity of the labels
received is inspected.
Out of the 1 roll or 1 box, 100 labels are inspected for defects or damages.
If 4 defects are found, it is accepted. If 5 or more defects are found, then
another 100 are checked.
In this 100 again if 4 defects are found, it is accepted. If 5 or more than 5
defects are found, then the entire lot is rejected.
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In case of 100 labels,
40 defective are acceptable.
50 are unacceptable.
And 40-50 are in the decision making process.
The rejected in then sent back to the main store. If the trims are accepted they are
then issued t the production line.

For Elastic, the shrinkage test is carried out by the trims store:
In this they measure 1m of the elastic and mark it.
This elastic is then dipped in water for 15-20 mins.
It is then dried naturally.
Then the elastic are measured again.
Then the shrinkage is calculated using the formula:
Shrinkage (%) = [After wash Before wash)/before wash] *100
The report is made and sent to the merchandiser.
The trim store maintains a trim chart. In this chart following details are present
Fabric swatch, matching thread for the fabric, fabric color, fabric code, Button,
Button matching thread
This chart goes to the merchandiser for the approval. The merchandiser signs the
chart and sends back. The shades of the buttons (if present) are then approved from
the buyer and signed.
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Cutting Department
(Centralized Cutting Department)-

Cutting department in unit -9 responsible to distribute cutting to all sewing units in
Bangalore CCU is spread over 9100 square meter area and having the capacity of around 1
lakh pieces cutting capacity.

Their cutting section having all the latest technology mentioned in given list.
They follows both methods automatic (checks) as well as manual(solid shade fabric and
lining fabric

Cad dpt office
Automatic spreading and cutting
m/c
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Manual spreading and cutting
Pin tables
Relaying tables
Manual
sprading and
cutting
Bundling abd
sorting
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54 | P a g e

Process Flow Chart of Cutting Department

MARKER PLANNING
MARKER CHECKING
FABRIC REQUISITION &
RECEIVAL
LAYING
MARKER MAKING
QUALITY AUDIT
LAY RELAXATION
MANUAL MARKING
NAMING OF PANELS
CUTTING

QUALITY AUDIT

SOBAR NUMBERING

55 | P a g e

Functions:
To make the cut order plan for all type of fabrics i.e. shell, lining, interlining
according to the PO
Getting the markers made from the CAD
Checking the patterns with the actual patterns
Draw manual markers
Getting the fabric issued from the stores according to the cut order plan
Laying the fabric
Meeting the requirement of the sewing department by providing them with the cut
panels on the right time
Ticketing and bundling of the cut panels
Returning the remnant roll to the stores
Maintaining the records
Checking the quality of the cut panels

The work for cutting department starts right from the point of order confirmation. The CAD
department prepares the marker length using the pattern and the sample prepared by the
Sampling Department. It also makes estimation for the consumption of the fabric for that
particular order. The results then communicated to merchandiser. Once the order gets
confirmed for bulk production then first they cut the garment component for the pilot run.
Once it is over then the Cutting, The IED, Sewing, and Planning Department sits together to
decide the no. of pieces to be cut and supplied in advance, in accordance with the
productivity derived for that style from the pilot run.
The cutting department, 1 or 2 days in advance from the cutting date procures the fabric
then the fabric issued to the spreader is properly laid according to the specified marker
length and width. The number of piles depends upon the type of Fabric, its thickness,
cutting method and the desired height of lay. The no. of plies also depends on type of fabric
and weight. After the fabric is laid QC checks the lay for the defects like Leaning, alignment,
Uneven Tension, Narrow goods, and other fabric defects. Then the marker is spread on the
top of the lay. Stickers including all the details as PO no, cut no, style no, part name, part
number and sizes is affixed on the top of the lay of all individual parts. Before cutting the
last inspection of lay has been done to check that the marker is coming well in the lays
width and length so it can properly cut. Cutting room is one of the core areas in any
garment organization. As a unit cutting room has a greater effect on excessive
manufacturing cost than any other department concerned with the actual production of
garments.
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Documents and Reports Maintained In The Cutting Section:

1. Cutting chart
2. Mini marker
3. Fabric requisition slip
4. Table plan
5. Misusing register
6. Lay slip
7. Lay order report
8. Spreading quality report
9. Cutting quality report
10. Hourly report of numbering
11. Hourly report of fusing
12. Re-cutting register
13. Hourly report of sorting and bundling
14. Cut parts issue register
15. Parts bank (cut panels)
16. Fabric completion report
SORTING AND BUNDLING:
The role of Sorting Department in the Factory is to coordinate and facilitate production in
the Sewing Department. After cutting sorting takes place where numbered stickers are put
on all parts of the garment according to the lays i.e. all cut parts from one Lay are GIven one
number. Sorting Department is labor intensive since the work involves selection and
bundling requires human discretion. The process is bundling where all cut parts are made in
to bundles. If Fusing is required in some parts (as collar, Neckband, placket, and cuff) it takes
place before bundling but after Sorting.
OPERATING PROCEDURES
RELAXATION OF STRETCH FABRIC
Unwind fabric from Roll and lay on Table / Flat area in concentric folds. . The Lay should not
touch any other item and nothing should be kept on the lay which may prevent normal
relaxation. The idea is to see that, stretch occurred during the time of converting into
Roll form, returns to its normal condition. Generally the Rolls are wound in tight condition
to save volume & space.
1. Attach the Relaxation History Tag to each and every roll that is relaxed indicating
the O.C. / P.O. #, Type of Fabric, Length & width of roll, Date & starting time of
relation, Date and ending time of relaxation etc.
2. After allowing for 24 hour relaxation, the roll is ready for Laying & Spreading. Enter
the Actual Date and ending time of relaxation in the Tag.
3. Lay and spread the Fabric as per Lay Slip and specification.
4. Allow a minimum of 3 to 6 hours in the Spread condition as Lay Relaxation before
any other operation takes place.
5. Check for spreading quality. Perform the subsequent operations like Mark / lay
C.A.D. Marker etc., as usual.
57 | P a g e

SIZE SORTING
The cut components are sorted according to the size example: all s size is kept
together and may be bundled with rags or else may be directly taken to numbering
and then bundling.
NUMBERING
Numbering of all the component parts of the size is done starting from number one.
There are specific codes for each size like
S M L XL
1 2 3 4
Using a numbering machine which prints stickers with the number that is manually
set and then sticks on the component.
It has to be manually worked.
CHECKING
After numbering all parts except for those parts that have fussing are taken to the
checking table for inspection.
Here pieces are checked for weaving defects, stains etc.
Those small parts that are having fussing are by passed this process because it is easy
and less time consuming to re-cut the defective pieces.
If the defects are beyond correction then they are sent for re-cutting.
BUNDLING
The number components are bundled and then put into poly bags according to the
P.O and stored.
Color bundle tickets are used for respective size.
Color codification stickers are used for shrinkage percentage group on bundle ticket.
58 | P a g e

FUSING SECTION
Cut Fabric Swatch with Square Template of size 12 inches x 12 inches.
1. Get the specified Interlining and cut it to size.
2. Fuse the Fabric and Interlining with specified Temperature, Pressure, and Time.
3. Allow for relation of the Fusing.
4. Measure the size and find out the Fusing Shrinkage and record it. Inform to
concerned people like Patter section for necessary action. Check for Shade variation
if any due to Fusing. If you observe any shade variation, take it up with the
concerned for necessary corrective action.
5. Wash the Swatch as per wash program standard or as specified.
6. Check the Fusing for fusing defects like Peel off, Bubbles etc. Inform the deviations
/ defects if any to the concerned for necessary corrective action.
7. Display the Swatch, Interning, and Fused swatch in the Board.
Note: All the reference cards should be displayed in the concerned Display Boards and Files
should be available in the concerned places.
MAINTENANCE OF MACHINES
All machines used in the Cutting section like, Spreading machine, Cutting machine, Band
Knife, Fusing machine etc should carry Maintenance card and Preventive Maintenance
card duly filled in.
General Points to be observed:
The following points to be taken care of in the Cutting section:-
Display SOPs in English and Local language.
Display approved Garment: In case of critical styles with specific line placements,
required layout of parts to be highlighted and displayed for easy reference and
access to all.
Fabric and Management Report: To be recorded & displayed against each O.C. /
P.O. (a) all Fabric status details style / color wise, (b) Shade swatches, color
standards duly approved , (c) Parts replacement % style wise.
Cutting CAD Marker: - All Markers to be generated by CAD. Authenticity of the same
is being confirmed by Cutting Room Auditor. Markers to be color coded in case of
Multiple Pattern usage (due to variation in shrinkage).
Bar Numbering: - All panels to be numbered using Bar Stickers. Color code So Baring
in case of multiple pattern usage.
Storage of Cut parts: - Use Flat racks for storing cut parts. Mobile cut parts storage
also to be use. Use polythene bags to prevent dust and stains.
Quality control: - Defined Quality control procedure in practice and record to be
available.
Notches on Patterns: - Process Audit to be done by Department Auditor.
Cut Panel Audit :- Cutting section QA to audit all cut parts, top, middle and bottom
with the oriGInal pattern and record findings and initiate corrective action as
required.
Cut Panel Inspection: - Cut panel inspection to be conducted in a separate area in
the department. The defect standards to be displayed at this area, style wise
59 | P a g e

acceptable, not acceptable clearly marked & displayed separately. Replacement of
defective parts to take place from the same rolls. Record of % replacement of parts
to be maintained with clear record for shade and shrinkage category.
Fabric Laying / Relaxation :- Relaxation / Lay start / Lay end / Cutting start time to
be record in case of stretch fabric
Fabric Laying / Spreading: - Fabric laying / spreading is to be audited and recorded.
Fusing setting requirement: - Fusible lining compatibility reports confirming the
Temperature / Pressure / Time to be displayed along with sample. Machine
Maintenance record to be displayed.
Fusing Records: - Temperature setting, bonding strength to be audited and recorded
4 times per day on fixed times. The first tests to start at the start of the fusing
followed at 2 Hours intervals. The days record to be available on display.
It is preferable to cover all the Fabric Swatches with transparent polyethylene sheet
to prevent dust etc.
All the Inspection and Checking area to be provide with a minimum of 1200 Lux light
level. Whenever the lighting level decreases, change the Tube light bulbs. The Table
tops to be of white laminated.

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UNIT 7

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Ground floor-finishing
1
st
floor-unit 7A (parts)
2
nd
floor-unit 7A -7 Eton assembly lines
3
rd
floor-unit 7D
4
th
floor-canteen
Unit -7cGround floor-finishing
1
st
floor ,2
nd
floor and 3
rd
floor- bundle
system
4
th
floor-canteen
Ground floor-
Training center
Office
1
st
floor-
Finishing dpt
garden
PARKING
WATER TANK AND
CHECK UP ROOM

M
A
I
N
R
O
A
D
Groung floor-finishing
1
st
floor-unit 7B (parts)
2
nd
floor-unit 7b Eton assembly lines
3
rd
floor-unit 7B parts and eton
4
th
floor-canteen
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Introduction
The final garment comes out of a sewing department because of a set of well-coordinated
steps in each of the batches. It is the most dynamic department of all. The layout, machines,
batch size, no. of Batches, method of operation, no. of workers on the floor etc can get
changed according to the new style, order quantity or production plan.
Once the Order gets confirmed for a particular style the planning department comes in to
action. It planned in well advance that which unit is going for Production as well as the
Quantity. It allocates the quantity & job order to different units based on their capacity.
Then the IED Department in collaboration with Factory Manager, decides the batch size,
number of Batches and daily target to be achieved by the each batch. Other details such as
no of stitches/inch at different areas, measurement for different sizes, placement of trims
etc are finalized and standardized at the sampling stage.
Function of sewing department:

The shift starts at 9:30 am in the morning. The inline quality controller checks the un-
finished pieces of the garment and check against the oriGInal sample garment.
The line supervisor check the hourly production of each part of the garment and also
check the daily production status which have details regarding line numbers, order
details, particular regarding man power and the machine available , lines expected
and actual target operation target , WIP and the operator daily operation output
The supervisor also ensures that necessary thread, label and tapes are available with
operator.
The target is hanged in each line for a particular style of a garment.
The pieces are inspected carefully and then feed into line.
They check the 1st ply, middle ply and last ply in a cut-piece bundle at the time of
feeding or when cut pieces arrives in sewing room.
The pieces are marked and notched by template for the particular operation at the
time of feeding or inline process.

When major problem arises in the line during production then quality people put the
check point over there for finding the reason for the problem and solving the
problem.

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PROCEDURE:
1. SEWING ANALYSIS AND LINE PLAN:
For each and every O.C/P.O, style analysis has to be made, stating the sequence of
operation, sewing machine to be used, folders, attachment of presser footer etc to
be used.
All critical operation to be marked.
Line plan shows the actual sequence of operation, number of stations for each
operation or combination of operation.
This will also show the marker position, iron table position, quality checking
positions.
2. PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLE:
Pre-production samples have to be made with material as specified in the O.C/P.O.
These samples have to be checked for measurement, visual defects, stitching
defects, shape etc.Samples are sent to the buyers representative for their
comments.
If the comments are major garment is re-stitched otherwise care is taken during
actual production.
If required patterns are modified to take care of measurement deviation and shape.
3. SIZE SET/PILOT RUN:
Pilot run/size set are conducted on actual sewing batches set for O.C/P.O. Pilot run
quantity should be of minimum of 25 garments.
During pilot all the sizes are covered. Garment is checked for measurement, visual
defects, material used, fusing defects, right type of folder/attachment/presser footer
usage etc.
Garment is checked for shrinkage, shade variation, bleeding properties, breakage of
stitches, damages to trims etc.
In case of any non-conformance it is concerned immediately to avoid confusion at
later stage.
4. PRE-PRODUCTION MEETING:
Pre-production meeting are conducted at the factory with members from buying
office, factory quality section, head office quality department, cutting section,
sewing section, finishing department along with plant manager and production
manager to discuss how to achieve better productivity and quality during bulk
production.
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5. JOB DESCRIPTION AND MODES:
Job description and modes are made for each and every operation, including the
marketing and inline ironing.
Modes are prepared by the actual operators and should be approved by supervisor,
mechanic and Q.A operators.
Job description should contain details like name of the operators, machine used,
needle used, color and type of threads used etc.
After all these procedure the cut pieces are sent for bulk sewing and finished
garment is the output.
After sewing and garment are sent to finishing section where final finishing and
packing of garment is done and it is then sent for shipment.
MAINTENANCE IN SEWING SECTION
Each machine has its maintenance card attached to it.
Maintenance card contain the name of machine, type of machine, make of machine,
details of maintenance done with date and time, details of preventive maintenance
done with date and time.
According to this card maintenance of machine is done at regular interval of time.

QUALITY CONTROL IN SEWING SECTION
All the inspection and checking area are provided with proper light and tables are
white laminated.
Quality control in sewing section is divided into three and they are:

1. IN-LINE PROCESS CONTROL:
Following of random sampling technique method of in-line checking of all the
operations are done and proper cares are taken for critical operations.
Using statistical process control tools Attribute control charts are made for visual
defects and Variable control
l charts for measurements. These charts are monitored at regular interval and
corrective actions are taken immediately.
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2. END-LINE INSPECTION:
All the garments are to be 100% checked at this point and necessary corrective
action are taken.
To enable proper checking approved garment with buyer comments are displayed.
Fabric defects standards (clearly marked acceptable and not acceptable) are also
displayed.
A follow up card is attached on each garment which contains the details like nature
of defects and remedial actions to be taken.
This will ensure that the garment has to been rectified and free from defects.
3. MEASUREMENT CONTROL:
Measurement chart/in process measurement chart(in case of wash
program),diagram showing the method of measurement ,multiple category
number, shrinkage range with color coding are displayed for operator working in
quality section.
At least 10% of the garment produced in a day is sent for measurement check.
Variable control chart are made and corrective actions are taken. Sewing supervisor,
production manager and Q.As regularly see the line and batch check sheets and
take necessary corrective action.

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Documentation Maintained:
1. Daily report consisting of:
Sewing production details.
Cutting details.
Checking and packing order.
Status of pending order.
Attendance report.
QC details.
2. Broken needle log book:
All broken needles are collect and logged an this file.
Its a compliance issue because there should be no metallic part in the garment
other than trims.
3. Inline checks report.
4. End line checks report.
5. Merchandise quality audit for stitched garment done by the QC.
6. Measurement checking sheet.
7. Bundle tracking record.
8. Hourly production report.
9. Output report to determine operator efficiency.
10. Work in pending report.

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FINISHING DEPARTMENT

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Process Flow Chart of Finishing Department

CARTON PACKING
POLY BAG CHECKING
TAGBRFLNG
MEASUREMENT CHECK
TRIMMING
BUTTON MARK AND SEW
KAJA AND BAR TACK
COUNTER CHECKING
BATCH RECEIVING
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Introduction
Finishing process is to check the garment for any defect and to make them appealing
through pressing. Garments are check according to quality system approved by a particular
buyer.AQL of 2.5 is followed for maximum buyers. Finishing is done to ensure that no
defected garments are packed.
PROCEDURE:
KAJA AND BUTTON SECTION
KAJA MARKING AND MAKING: This Section receives the sewn garments. Initially
templates and pins are used to mark the kaja position. Now kaja are made the
marked position by the specialised machine.
BUTTON MARKING AND ATTACHING: Similarly with the help of button attaching
machine buttons are attached at the marked positions.
BUTTON SHANK WRAPPING: Now the button shank is wrapped by the button shank
wrapping machine to provide strength and tight hold to the buttons on the fabric
surface.
BUTTON AND KAJA CHECKING: There is a separate inspection table for the kaja
section where proper button and kaja placement and alignment are checked. If any
discrepancies found they are again sent back for correction.
STICKER REMOVING: Now finally stickers are removed from the garments and they
are further sent to the washing or the finishing department.

THREAD CUTTING
Extra thread coming out of seam ends. Uncut threads affect the presentation of
finished and packed garments. Therefore, it is necessary to cut and trim the loose
and uncut threads as soon as possible.
As soon as button was attached the garments pieces were brought to five tables
meant for the purpose of thread cutting. There were around 12 operators doing
this job using the clippers. An hourly production record was maintained for the
thread cutting workers.
SPOTTING
Stains which are not removed from the garments after washing also are removed by
spotting in this process. As soon as the quality checkers comes across a defect, he
brings the defective piece to the operators meant for the purpose of trouble shooting i.e.
alteration and satin removal section. This section comprises of the following personnel
Alteration tailors (eight in no.) for the correction of stitching defects
Spot washing gun operators (eight in no.) for removal of various
type of stains.
An hourly and daily record of the number of pieces altered is maintained. This
helps in keeping a track on the quality of garments being sent to finishing by the
production floor. 20-30% is normally the alteration and stain removal rate.
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INITIAL PRESSING

Initial pressing is done to remove the creases and to make the garment visually alike
as per the required sample of the buyer.
The pieces were put into iron boxes after thread-cutting activity gets over. From
these boxes ironers who used to iron the seams only retrieved the pieces.
The ironing machines being used for this purpose were Steam Ironing Tables with
Vacuum Boards. These irons were of the make Ram sons Viet. There were two lines
of six irons each on both the floor. These ironers used to steam iron the following
seams:
o Sweep
o side seam
o sleeve hem
o or any other area they need to press for better checking
The whole idea of this seam ironing was to facilitate the quality checkers.
The ironing makes the seams visible. So, detection of any seam defects like broken
stitch, open seam, loose stitches etc became quite easy.
An hourly production record of seam ironers was maintained.
Various Purposes of Pressing:

To smooth away the unwanted creases and crush marks
To crease the garment wherever required like in collars before top stitch
To mould the garment to the contour of the body
To prepare the garments for further sewing (under pressing)
To refinish the fabric after the manufacturing of the garment

Not nearly as much attention has been paid to the technology of pressing as to the
technology of sewing and cutting. Some interesting points are: The percentage of total
manufacturing work content in pressing is around 50%.The possibility of automation has
been explored for some steam presses, but most pressing operation requires the continual
intervention of human hand.
71 | P a g e

VISUAL CHECKING
Checking of all the garment is done according to required AQL. Each quality checker is
provided with two baskets (one for pass pieces and the other for defective pieces), stickers
for marking defects, thread clippers etc. each checker is instructed to check the garments
thoroughly, mark the defects with arrow stickers and also to cut the uncut threads if
found. Every checker puts the pass piece in the plastic basket below the inspection table.
It is the responsibility of the quality checker to take the defective pieces for correction and
after correction put it in the pass pieces basket. The defects found at this stage could be
broadly of the following types
stitching defects
stains
weaving defects
button/buttonholing defects
Checker puts his allotted number on each of the garment piece passed by him. All
these checkers are GIven regular on-the-job training. Finishing in charge or supervisors
teach checkers the correct method of garment checking. There are two types of production
records that are maintained for these quality checkers. They are
a)hourly production record
b)daily production record
MEASUREMENTS CHECKING
After checking the garment visually, measurement of the garments is checked
according to the spec sheet with the acceptable tolerance.
FINAL PRESSING
Final pressing is done on the garment which has no defect. Based on the ironing
instructions, the supervisor GIves the instructions to the ironing operators about the
correct way of ironing the garments of a particular style.
It was very essential because a lot of times it is used to happen that the garments
were supposed to be packed with cuff turned but they were packed with flat cuffs.
The hanGIng trolleys from where the garments were retrieved for ironing and placed
after ironing were ergonomically designed, keeping in mind the ironing operators
movement.
An hourly production record of each ironer was maintained for the purpose of
keeping a track on the total production.
ATTACHING PRICE TAGS AND OTHER LABEL
The pass pieces are brought to the tagGIng section on the hanGIng wheeled
trolleys.
It was the responsibility of the packing supervisors to provide the tagGIng
operators with the appropriate price and brand ticket or tags.
72 | P a g e

The supervisor also instructs the tagGIng operator as to where and how the tag has
to be placed.
After passing through all the checking and pressing process price tag is attached to
the garment through tag gun.
The most important thing to be kept in mind while placing the tag was to match
the size mentioned on the main label and the size on tag or ticket.
73 | P a g e

PACKAGING OF THE GARMENT
After the attaching the price tag to the garment; garments are packed in the poly
bags or hanged in hanger as per the buyer requirements.
The packing instructions GIven by the buyers can be like type of polybag, any printing
on polybag required or not, garments to be hanger packed or not, method of folding
and packing the garments etc.
Packed garments are packed in the cartons as per the packaGIng plan. Each cartons
has specified number of garments and the quantity can neither be increased nor be
decreased after its planned.
It is very important to check the packed garments for presentation. Checkers check
the packed garments for the following things
Poly bag is as per specification
Tags and price ticket should must be visible as per specification
Packing is secured or not
Poly bags should not be soiled and torn
Hangers are there or not if specified
Garment has been folded as per specification etc.
Once, checking is done they send the garments for the carton packing. The following things
were kept in mind during carton packing
Number of garments to be packed in one carton
Ratio asked for example M:L:XL=1:2:2
Decide on the plies and dimensions(as specified by the buyer) of
the cardboard to be used
Get the cartons tested for bursting strength
Packing the garments in the cartons as per specified
Closing the cartons with cellophane tape
Sealing the cartons with plastic cord
Writing on carton information like store or buyer name, buyer's
Address, ratio, net weight or gross weight of the carton etc.
Details about the style no., PO number, size etc are mentioned above the carton box .Bar
code slip is also sticked on the cartons. Each carton has its own identification over the bar
code slip.
RATIO PACKING
Garments are packed size-ratio wise. In this kind of packing all the sizes are packed together
in a GIven ratio.
Example:
Size S M L XL
Ratio 10 20 20 10
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LOCATION PACKING
In this kind of packaGIng, shipment is packed in parts as per the buyers
requirement.
This is also commonly used as shipment has to be send to different location. So an
order quantity of 1, 00,000 pieces can be shipped as 20,000 to New York, 65,000 to
U.K. and 15,000 to U.S.A.
SOLID SIZE PACKAGING:
In this packaGIng type, each carton contains one size as per buyers requirement.
COLOR WISE PACKING
In this type of packing, different sizes of same color are packed together in the GIven
ratio.
Example: If 60 garments are to be packed in a carton:
Color Blue
Ratio S M L XL
10 20 20 10
OPERATING PROCEDURE
The following procedures are to be followed in the Finishing section. These are to be
displayed on a Display Board kept at the Finishing section.
GARMENT RECEIPT:
The garments received for Finishing has to be recorded in appropriate Ledger,
mentioning the O.C. / P.O. #, Color & Shade, Size, Washed or Unwashed etc.
Compare with O.C. / P.O. copy and verify the Quantity and the product mix. In case
of variation in quantity, size mix takes necessary action.
JOB DESCRIPTION & STANDARDS
Process Flow charts are displayed. Any special instructions required are to be
displayed.
The Display board should have approved, Garment, Trim Cards, Fold / Packing
method, Fabric defect standards, wash standards, shade band, Defect % as
observed in Finishing section. Ironing standards are available at the section.
Standard requirements explained to all Ironers, like method of Ironing, Temperature,
Steam usage, etc
QUALITY CHECKS ON GARMENTS
All the Inspection and Checking area to be provide with a minimum of 1200 Lux light level.
Whenever the lighting level decreases, change the Tube light bulbs. The Table Tops to be of
White Laminated.
75 | P a g e

VISUAL CHECK
All the Garments to be checked for the Visual Defects related to stitching, Fabric,
Trims etc. Garments which are rejected are to be rectified.
Attach a Follow up card, which details the nature of defect and the remedial action
taken.
This will ensure that the Garment has been rectified and free from defect. Record to
be maintained for the % of garments sent for Alternation / Rectification.
Similarly maintain separate record for the % of garments that underwent Spot
washing.
Garments after Ironing are to be checked for right type of Folding, Packing, attaching
right type of Tags, Presentation, etc. Master Cartons to be checked for the right
information as specified. Place Checkers/Inspectors identification mark in the
garment at specified place.

MEASUREMENT CHECK
All the garments to undergo measurement checks at critical points at separate are.
Daily a minimum of 32 pieces to 10 % of garments to be checked for all the
measurements as per Measurement chart GIven by the Buyer by roaming Q.A.
Necessary corrective action to be taken for the non-conformances. Garments sent
for alternation / rectifications are to be tracked by a Follow up card and record to
be maintained for the Alteration %. Diagram mentioning how to measure are
displayed in the Audit areas.

MINI- Q.A. CENTER
The Mini- Q.A. Center: The Min-Q.A. Center should be provide with a minimum of
1200 Lux lighting level. Display copy Shade band, Fabric defect standards ( clearly
marked Acceptable and Not Acceptable ).
Measurement chart, How to measure chart, Sewing defect standards for Puckering
etc.
GARMENT PACKING
Packing standards duly signed by the Merchandiser / Buyers representative to be
present in the area.
Presentation inspections to be conducted before the garments are put into poly
bags. Price Tags, Bar code tags, and other such tags to be stored in separate Pigeon
hole self / box with dividers to avoid mix-up.
Garments to be sorted size wise before the tags / Price tickets are fixed on to them.
The first garment packed to be approving by Factory Manger / Q.A.

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QUALITY AUDITS
INTERNAL FINISHED GOODS AUDIT: By Factory Auditor.
In small lots (say for example 200 garments) finished packed garments to be offered
for final audits with the size written as a packing slip.
Auditor must verify the size wise quantity and select at random samples for audit.
The Audit to be done for visual as well as for measurement.
The audit report is issued to the Factory management with comments and obtains
their signature.
In case of audit failure, this should be discussed with concerned for rectification and
for preventive measure.
The lot wise records of the entire audit done to be available for that particular O.C. /
P.O. with corrective actions taken if any.
FINAL AUDIT: By Corporate Q.A. Team.
Before the Lot is offered for Inspection by Buyers representative, the lot should be
offered for Audit to the Corporate Q.A. team and get approved.
They should check for size wise count accuracy, carton audit, visual checks of
garment & packing.
They should use slightly tighter sampling plan for audit. For example, if Buyer is
going to use AQL 4, the Corporate Audit team should use AQL 2.5 as their sampling
plan.
The Q.A should aware of the Buyers Tech.pak, Measurement charts, Packing
methods, comments on samples, PP comments, Internal audit reports, before start
their actual Audit.
In case, the lot gets rejected, Audit to be conducted after due re-screening /
rectification.
REVIEW REJECTIONS
Review of rejection to place with P.M./ F.M. / Q.A. for taking necessary corrective
action from time to time.
ORGANIZATION OF A Q.A. TEAM
The Q.A. Team has well trained Quality Auditors and Quality Assurance Manager.
The role and responsibility of each one is clearly defined.
They are empowered with GIving stop advice to the production department, in case,
the Q.A. team observe too many non-conformances occurring or repeatability is lost.
77 | P a g e

Production department then conducts a meeting along with Q.A. for necessary
corrective actions. Once the Q.A. is satisfied about the actions taken, regular
production commences.
All the Q.A.s are briefed with the Quality System in Fabric Warehouse, Cutting,
Sewing, Finishing, and Packing. Job rotation is followed for Q.As to ensure more
effectiveness.
QUALITY MANAGEMENT PROCEDURE
AQL INSPECTION
It is the responsibility of the Factory/ Site Manager to ensure that all stock being
dispatched from his/her site has been through a Pre-Shipment AQL Inspection
process.
A Pre-Shipment AQL Inspection can take place either , prior to the storage in the
factories finished goods warehouse or prior to shipment to the distribution
warehouses
.A Pre-Shipment AQL Inspection cannot take place unless the audit team are in the
possession of the following-An approved/ signed product quality standard which at
minimum must be Contract Seal. the relevant product specification.
The batch size for each audit is very much determined by the stage where pre-
shipment AQL Inspection takes place; however, every effort must be made to ensure
that the batch size is no less than 50 selling units.
The Sara Lee Courtaulds Pre-Shipment Sampling Plan will determine the sample size
for each batch. It is essential that the sample is randomly selected from the batch.
The visual inspection of the garment in the sample must be against the garment
specifications and the signed standard and faults found must be based on the
General Auditing Criteria.
All garments rejected must first be classified as either carrying a major or a minor
fault/s and then recorded on a fully completed Production Unit Daily Pre-Shipment
Audit Sheet. Major fault is a fault that would make the product either un-sellable or
the customer would return it if noticed. Minor fault is a fault that may make the
product either or the customer would be dissatisfied if noticed.
When an audit has completed the failure levels must be checked against the AQL for
that sampling plan to determine the status of the audit If the audit is accepted, the
passed garments in the sample must be returned to the remaining stock and the
stock can then be released either into the finished goods storage area or for
shipment. Any rejected garment must be clearly identified and quarantined ready for
repair or seconding.
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A REJECTED PRE-SHIPMENT AQL INSPECTION
If the audit is rejected, then the whole batch must be quarantined and 100%
inspected.
It is recommended that the pre-shipment audit team does not carry out 100%
inspection.
Following the 100% inspection all faults found must again be classified as either a
major or a minor and then recorded in the 100% audit section of the audit sheet.
When the above step has been completed, the rejected garments must be clearly
identified and quarantined ready for repair or seconding.
If the 100% inspection is not carried out by the pre-shipment audit team, then the
passed garments from 100% inspection must be verified by the same team and the
details of this re-audit must be recorded on the audit sheet as an additional audit.
THE PRODUCTION UNIT DAILY PRE-SHIPMENT AUDIT SHEET
At the introduction of the whole Pre-Shipment AQL inspection procedure each
individual factory or business must decide on its own series of fault codes.
The audit sheet allows for 25 different fault codes. These must be recorded on
master sheet and be used on all future audits.
The fault codes must be based on specific areas of manufacturing to identify trends
and areas of continuous improvement.
There must be one sheet per auditor per day regardless of how many different styles
a day and individual auditor audits and the audit date and the auditors name must
be completed on top of each sheet.
Data must be recorded in each individual column as follows:

JIT/Line No. The number of the team where the stock was produced.
Style This is the stroke number of the style audited. And must
include any relevant suffixes.
Color This is the color/colors of the garments included in the
audit. This is an optional column and does not have to be
used.
Batch Size The total number of individual selling units in the specific
audit.
Sample The total number of selling units inspected determined by
the sampling plan.
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SAMPLE AUDIT
Major Faults The number of garments, which have fault/faults,
categorized as major from the inspection criteria.
Minor Faults The number of garments, which have fault/faults,
categorized as minor from the inspection criteria.
A/R This is to indentify if the audit was accepted A or rejected
R.

100% AUDIT
Major Faults The total number of garments carrying major faults found
in both the audit and the 100% inspection of the remaining
stock.
Minor Faults The total number of garments carrying minor faults found
in both the audit and 100% inspection of the remaining
stock.
Fault Codes The total number of faults, by category found in both the
audit and 100% inspection.
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QUALITY DEPARTMENT

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PROCEDURE:
1. AQL INSPECTION:
It is the responsibility of the factory/site manager to ensure that all the stock for
dispatch from the site has been through a pre shipment AQL inspection process.
Apre-shipment AQL inspection can take place either, prior to the storage in the
factory finished goods warehouse or to shipment to the distribution warehouse.
Pre-shipment AQL inspection cannot take place unless the audit teams are in
possession of an approved/signed product quality standard which at minimum
must be the contract seal.
The batch size for each audit will be very much determine by the stage where the
pre-shipment AQL inspection take place, however every are made to ensure that
the batch size is no less than 50 selling units.
All the garments rejected must first be classified as major, minor faults and
then recorded on Production unit daily pre-shipment audit sheet.
MAJOR FAULTS:
All faults that would make the product either un-sellable or the customer would
return if noticed.
MINOR FAULTS:
All faults that may make the product either un-sellable or the customer would be
dissatisfied if noticed.
When an audit has been completed the failure levels must be checked against the
AQL for that sampling plan to determine the status of the audit.
If the audit is accepted the passed garments in the sample must be returned to the
remaining stock and the stock can then be released either into the finished goods
storage area or for shipment.
Any rejected garments must be clearly identified and repaired.
CRITICAL FAULTS:
Critical faults are those faults which makes product either un-sellable.
Some of the critical faults are hole, stain etc. which can removed either by recutting
the part of garment which has to fault or if the fault cannot be repaired it goes to
rejection area.
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2. A REJECTED PRE-SHIPMENT AQL INSPECTION:
If the audit is rejected then the whole batch must be quarantined and 100%
inspected.
It is recommended that the pre-shipment audit team does not carry out 100%
inspection.
Following the 100% inspection the entire fault found must be classified as either
major, minor and then recorded in the 100% audit selection sheet. After 100%
inspection the rejected garment are clearly identified and quarantined ready for
repair.
3. THE PRODUCTION UNIT DAILY PRE-SHIPMENT AUDIT SHEET:
At the introduction of the whole pre-shipment AQL inspection procedure each
individual factory decides its own series of fault codes.
The audit sheet allows for 25 different faults codes.
These must be recorded on master sheet and can be used for future audit.
The fault code must be based on specified areas of manufacturing to identify trends
and area of continuous improvement. Data are recorded in each column as follow:
JIT/LINE NUMBER: The number of the team where the stock was produced.
STYLE: This is the stroke number of the style audited and must include any relevant
suffixes.
COLOR: This is the color/colors of the garment included in the audit. This is an optional
column and does not have to be used.
BATCH SIZE:The total number of individual selling units in the specific audit.
SAMPLE: The total number of selling units inspected determined by the sampling plan.

SAMPLE AUDIT
MAJOR FAULTS: The number of garments, which have faults and are categorized as
major from the inspection criteria.
MINOR FAULTS: The number of garments, which have faults and are categorized as
minor from the inspection criteria.
A/R: This is to identify if the audit was acceptedAor rejected.

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100% AUDIT
MAJOR FAULTS: The total number of garment carrying major faults found in both the
audit and 100% inspection of the remaining stock.
MINOR FAULTS: The total number of garment carrying minor faults found in both
the audit and 100% inspection of the remaining stock.
FAULT CODE: The total number of faults by category found in both the audit and the
100% inspection.

PRE-SHIPMENT AQL SAMPLING PLAN

AT AQL 0.65 AT AQL 2.5

MAXIMUM
NUMBER MAJOR
DEFECTIVES

MAXIMUM
NUMBER MINOR
DEFECTIVES
BATCH SIZE SAMPLE SIZE ALLOWED SAMPLE SIZE ALLOWED
2-8 5 0 5 0
9-15 5 0 5 0
16-25 5 0 5 0
26-50 5 0 5 1
26-50 5 0 5 1
51-90 20 0 20 1
91-150 20 0 20 1
151-280 32 0 32 2
281-500 50 1 50 3
501-1200 80 1 80 5
1201-3200 125 2 125 7
3201-10000 200 3 200 10
10001-35000 315 5 315 14
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Documents Maintained:
Internal audit report.
Final audit report.
Internal and final audit defective % graph.
Final inspection detail.
Q.Cs performance record.
Defective % analysis.

35001-150000 500 7 500 21
150001-
500000
500 10 500 34
500001-AND
OVER
500 14 500 52
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INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING
DEPARTMENT

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Introduction
Garment manufacturing is a labor intensive industry. Research has shown that in any sewing
floor, only 20-30% of time is utilized by the machine and rest goes in manual handling. This
means in order to improve productivity faster machines will not bring significant difference,
but it is the method engineering which can bring significant benefit.
Functions of industrial engineering department:
To understand the production capacity of the factory, and to draw up plans for an
appropriate target output, suitable range of divided labor and optimum production.
To investigate the level of individual skills.
To determine the time value for each work component under the motion study. This
supports improvements and standardization.
For use as a yardstick in evaluation of the operation.
To draw up plans and make estimates for a change of product or for the construction
of new orders.
To obtain an evaluation standard for the order receiving, planning using the time
study as the basis of control.
To use the basic order for determining the unit cost manufacturing and the wage
rate.
For use as the basis for introducing a production control system.
Take note of time period required for executing the order.
To make the adequate machines available for making the style.
To study the time complexities in the garment
Depending on the above, decide the feasibility of the manufacture of the garment.
Coordinate with the production and merchandising departments.
To develop operation bulletin (OB) for every new style.
To develop the new style requirement (NSR) sheet for the style.
TIME STUDY
It is a work measurement technique for recording the times and rates of working for
the elements of a specified job carried out under specified conditions, and for
analyzing the data so as to obtain the time necessary for carrying out the job at a
defined level of performance.
After doing the time study, improvements are made on the basis of time values and
based on which gives targets to the workers.
This consists of
1. Breaking down of the work into minute work components.
2. Recording the time required to finish the work.
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RECORD KEEPING
Daily production report
Unit wise and style wise report.
Daily finishing report.
Weekly production report.
Production summary.
Operating production chart
Efficiency chart for analysis
Attendance chart
Target charts for styles
IE DEPARTMENT IN FACTORY
The IE department in the factory is assigned the following jobs-
Method Implementation in the batch.
To maintain the methods of the operation performed in the batch as implemented
by GSD.
Follow-up on low output operators. Finding out reason for low efficiency and solving
the problem to increase performance and productivity.
Off-standard & On-standard work details calculation
Maintaining Target stickers for each operation.
Issuing and maintaining gum sheets of each operator.
Finding out hourly production.
Size-wise loading and output calculation.
Generating Daily production report and style-wise efficiency report.
To conduct Time study of each operator at pre-fixed intervals.
Capacity report generation.
Create and update skill matrix of each operator & submit the same to personnel
department.
Assist in Factory planning.
OPERATOR PRODUCTION SHEET
Operator production sheets are maintained for each operator.
Each operator is given a gum sheet in which he/she can fill in the number of bundles
and pieces that he/she completed during that particular hour.
This helps in bundle tracking, WIP and efficiency estimation of the particular
operator.
Gum sheets are issued to the batch as soon as the batch is loaded and it has to be
signed by the Supervisor and AAMT after each hour.
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TARGET STICKER
Target sticker is prepared taking into consideration the SAM and the operation
concerned. It consists of target efficiency and target production that the operator
must achieve.
HOURLY PRODUCTION REPORT
Hourly production report is maintained by the IE department. Each operators
opening and closing WIP is maintained after each 2 hours.
Thus, production is constantly monitored for each 2 hours. WIP is also monitored
and thus operators lagging behind in certain operations and thus accumulating WIP
can be found out and preventive measures be taken.
DAILY PRODUCTION REPORT
The IE department is also supposed to maintain a daily production report for each
line. This report keeps track of pieces loaded, color and SAM, Production and total
SAM earned that day.
This is maintained everyday and thus gives a brief overview of how the factory
performed on any particular day.
STYLE WISE EFFICIENCY REPORT
Style wise production report is also maintained by the IE department. It keeps a track
of the number of pieces loaded, number of pieces produced, WIP, SAM earned, style
and factory efficiency.
This is reviewed by production manager who can thus get a crisp view of which line
is lagging in production and efficiency.
SKILL MATRIX
Give grades to operators according to their skill and performance.
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PROJECTS

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NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
Efficiency Improvement in a Garment
Manufacturing Unit
Implementing Theory of Constraints

Ashutosh Vatsa
8/21/2012

This Project was carried out at BOMBAY RAYON FASHIONS LIMITED, Doddaballapur Garment
manufacturing unit 7B between 21st May 2012 and 21st August 2012.
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The Theory of Constraints
The Theory of Constraints is a methodology for identifying the most important limiting
factor (i.e. constraint) that stands in the way of achieving a goal and then systematically
improving that constraint until it is no longer the limiting factor. In manufacturing, the
constraint is often referred to
as a bottleneck.
The Theory of Constraints takes
a scientific approach to
improvement. It hypothesizes
that every complex system,
including manufacturing
processes, consists of multiple linked activities, one of which acts as a constraint upon the
entire system (i.e. the constraint activity is the weakest link in the chain).
The ultimate goal of most manufacturing companies is to make a profit both in the short
term and in the long term. The Theory of Constraints provides a powerful set of tools for
helping to achieve that goal, including:
The Five Focusing Steps (a methodology for identifying and eliminating constraints)
The Thinking Processes (tools for analyzing and resolving problems)
Throughput Accounting (a method for measuring performance and guiding
management decisions)
Dr. Eliyahu Goldratt conceived the Theory of Constraints (TOC), and introduced it to a wide
audience through his bestselling 1984 novel, The Goal. Since then, TOC has continued to
evolve and develop, and today it is a significant factor within the world of management best
practices.
One of the appealing characteristics of the Theory of Constraints is that it inherently
prioritizes improvement activities. The top priority is always the current constraint. In
environments where there is an urgent need to improve, TOC offers a highly focused
methodology for creating rapid improvement.
A successful Theory of Constraints implementation will have the following benefits:
Increased profit (the primary goal of TOC for most companies)
Fast improvement (a result of focusing all attention on one critical area the system
constraint)
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Improved capacity (optimizing the constraint enables more product to be
manufactured)
Reduced lead times (optimizing the constraint results in smoother and faster product
flow)
Reduced inventory (eliminating bottlenecks means there will be less work-in-
process)
BASICS OF THE THEORY OF CONSTRAINTS
Core Concept
The core concept of the Theory of Constraints is that every process has a single constraint
and that total process throughput can only be improved when the constraint is improved. A
very important corollary to this is that spending time optimizing non-constraints will not
provide significant benefits; only improvements to the constraint will further the goal
(achieving more profit).
Thus, TOC seeks to provide precise and sustained focus on improving the current constraint
until it no longer limits throughput, at which point the focus moves to the next constraint.
The underlying power of TOC flows from its ability to generate a tremendously strong focus
towards a single goal (profit) and to removing the principal impediment (the constraint) to
achieving more of that goal. In fact, Goldratt considers focus to be the essence of TOC.
The Five Focusing Steps
The Theory of Constraints provides a specific methodology for identifying and eliminating
constraints, referred to as the Five Focusing Steps. As shown in the following diagram, it is a
cyclical process.

The Theory of Constraints uses a process known as the Five Focusing Steps
to identify and eliminate constraints (i.e. bottlenecks).
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The Five Focusing Steps are further described in the following table.
Step Objective
Identify Identify the current constraint (the single part of the process that limits the
rate at which the goal is achieved).
Exploit Make quick improvements to the throughput of the constraint using existing
resources (i.e. make the most of what you have).
Subordinate Review all other activities in the process to ensure that they are aligned with
and truly support the needs of the constraint.
Elevate If the constraint still exists (i.e. it has not moved), consider what further
actions can be taken to eliminate it from being the constraint. Normally,
actions are continued at this step until the constraint has been broken (until
it has moved somewhere else). In some cases, capital investment may be
required.
Repeat The Five Focusing Steps are a continuous improvement cycle. Therefore, once
a constraint is resolved the next constraint should immediately be addressed.
This step is a reminder to never become complacent aggressively improve
the current constraintand then immediately move on to the next constraint.

The Thinking Processes
The Theory of Constraints includes a sophisticated problem solving methodology called the
Thinking Processes. The Thinking Processes are optimized for complex systems with many
interdependencies (e.g. manufacturing lines). They are designed as scientific cause and
effect tools, which strive to first identify the root causes of undesirable effects (referred to
as UDEs), and then remove the UDEs without creating new ones.
The Thinking Processes are used to answer the following three questions, which are
essential to TOC:
What needs to be changed?
What should it be changed to?
What actions will cause the change?
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Examples of tools that have been formalized as part of the Thinking Processes include:
Tool Role Description
Current
Reality Tree
Documents the
current state.
Diagram that shows the current state, which is
unsatisfactory and needs improvement. When creating
the diagram, UDEs (symptoms of the problem) are
identified and traced back to their root cause (the
underlying problem).
Evaporating
Cloud Tree
Evaluates
potential
improvements.
Diagram that helps to identify specific changes (called
injections) that eliminate UDEs. It is particularly useful
for resolving conflicts between different approaches to
solving a problem. It is used as part of the process for
progressing from the Current Reality Tree to the Future
Reality Tree.
Future
Reality Tree
Documents the
future state.
Diagram that shows the future state, which reflects the
results of injecting changes into the system that are
designed to eliminate UDEs.
Strategy and
Tactics Tree
Provides an action
plan for
improvement.
Diagram that shows an implementation plan for
achieving the future state. Creates a logical structure
that organizes knowledge and derives tactics from
strategy. Note: this tool is intended to replace the
formerly used Prerequisite Tree in the Thinking
Processes.
Throughput Accounting
Throughput Accounting is an alternative accounting methodology that attempts to eliminate
harmful distortions introduced from traditional accounting practices distortions that
promote behaviors contrary to the goal of increasing profit in the long term.
In traditional accounting, inventory is an asset (in theory, it can be converted to cash by
selling it). This often drives undesirable behavior at companies manufacturing items that
are not truly needed. Accumulating inventory inflates assets and generates a paper profit
based on inventory that may or may not ever be sold (e.g. due to obsolescence) and that
incurs cost as it sits in storage. The Theory of Constraints, on the other hand, considers
inventory to be a liability inventory ties up cash that could be used more productively
elsewhere.
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In traditional accounting, there is also a very strong emphasis on cutting expenses. The
Theory of Constraints, on the other hand, considers cutting expenses to be of much less
importance than increasing throughput. Cutting expenses is limited by reaching zero
expenses, whereas increasing throughput has no such limitations.
These and other conflicts result in the Theory of Constraints emphasizing Throughput
Accounting, which uses as its core measures: Throughput, Investment, and Operating
Expense.
Core
Measures
Definition
Throughput The rate at which customer sales are generated less truly variable costs
(typically raw materials, sales commissions, and freight). Labor is not
considered a truly variable cost unless pay is 100% tied to pieces produced.
Investment Money that is tied up in physical things: product inventory, machinery and
equipment, real estate, etc. Formerly referred to in TOC as Inventory.
Operating
Expense
Money spent to create throughput, other than truly variable costs (e.g.
payroll, utilities, taxes, etc.). The cost of maintaining a given level of
capacity.

In addition, Throughput Accounting has four key derived measures: Net Profit, Return on
Investment, Productivity, and Investment Turns.
Derived Measures Definition
Net Profit Throughput - Operating Expenses
Return on Investment Net Profit / Investment
Productivity Throughput / Operating Expenses
Investment Turns Throughput / Investment

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In general, management decisions are guided by their effect on achieving the following
improvements (in order of priority):
Will Throughput be increased?
Will Investment be reduced?
Will Operating Expenses be reduced?
The strongest emphasis (by far) is on increasing Throughput. In essence, TOC is saying to
focus less on cutting expenses (Investment and Operating Expenses) and focus more on
building sales (Throughput).

Drum-Buffer-Rope
Drum-Buffer-Rope (DBR) is a method of synchronizing production to the constraint while
minimizing inventory and work-in-process.
The Drum is the constraint. The speed at which the constraint runs sets the beat for the
process and determines total throughput.
The Buffer is the level of inventory needed to maintain consistent production. It ensures
that brief interruptions and fluctuations in non-constraints do not affect the constraint.
Buffers represent time; the amount of time (usually measured in hours) that work-in-
process should arrive in advance of being used to ensure steady operation of the protected
resource. The more variation there is in the process the larger the buffers need to be. An
alternative to large buffer inventories is sprint capacity (intentional overcapacity) at non-
constraints. Typically, there are two buffers:
Constraint Buffer (immediately before the constraint; protects the constraint)
Customer Buffer (at the very end of the process; protects the shipping schedule)
The Rope is a signal generated by the constraint indicating that some amount of inventory
has been consumed. This in turn triggers an identically sized release of inventory into the
process. The role of the rope is to maintain throughput without creating an accumulation of
excess inventory.
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THE NATURE OF CONSTRAINTS
What are Constraints?
Constraints are anything that prevents the organization from making progress towards its
goal. In manufacturing processes, constraints are often referred to as bottlenecks.
Interestingly, constraints can take many forms other than equipment. There are differing
opinions on how to best categorize constraints; a common approach is shown in the
following table.
Constraint Description
Physical Typically equipment, but can also be other tangible items, such as material
shortages, lack of people, or lack of space.
Policy Required or recommended ways of working. May be informal (e.g. described to
new employees as how things are done here). Examples include company
procedures (e.g. how lot sizes are calculated, bonus plans, overtime policy),
union contracts (e.g. a contract that prohibits cross-training), or government
regulations (e.g. mandated breaks).
Paradigm Deeply engrained beliefs or habits. For example, the belief that we must always
keep our equipment running to lower the manufacturing cost per piece. A
close relative of the policy constraint.
Market Occurs when production capacity exceeds sales (the external marketplace is
constraining throughput). If there is an effective ongoing application of the
Theory of Constraints, eventually the constraint is likely to move to the
marketplace.
There are also differing opinions on whether a system can have more than one constraint.
The conventional wisdom is that most systems have one constraint, and occasionally a
system may have two or three constraints.
In manufacturing plants where a mix of products is produced, it is possible for each product
to take a unique manufacturing path and the constraint may move depending on the path
taken. This environment can be modeled as multiple systems one for each unique
manufacturing path.
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Policy Constraints
Policy constraints deserve special mention. It may come as a surprise that the most common
form of constraint (by far) is the policy constraint.
Since policy constraints often stem from long-established and widely accepted policies, they
can be particularly difficult to identify and even harder to overcome. It is typically much
easier for an external party to identify policy constraints, since an external party is less likely
to take existing policies for granted.
When a policy constraint is associated with a firmly entrenched paradigm (e.g. we must
always keep our equipment running to lower the manufacturing cost per piece), a
significant investment in training and coaching is likely to be required to change the
paradigm and eliminate the constraint.
Policy constraints are not addressed through application of the Five Focusing Steps. Instead,
the three questions discussed earlier in the Thinking Processes section are applied:
What needs to be changed?
What should it be changed to?
What actions will cause the change?
The Thinking Processes are designed to effectively work through these questions and
resolve conflicts that may arise from changing existing policies.
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IMPLEMENTING THEORY OF CONSTRAINTS A SIMPLIFIED ROADMAP
An excellent way to deepen your understanding of the Theory of Constraints is to walk
through a simple implementation example. In this example, the Five Focusing Steps are used
to identify and eliminate an equipment constraint (i.e. bottleneck) in the manufacturing
process.
Step One Identify the Constraint
In this step, the manufacturing process is reviewed to identify the constraint. A simple but
often effective technique is to literally walk through the manufacturing process looking for
indications of the constraint.
Look for large accumulations of work-in-process on the plant floor. Inventory often
accumulates immediately before the constraint.
Look for areas where process expeditors are frequently involved. Special attention
and handholding are often needed at the constraint to ensure that critical orders are
completed on time.
Review equipment performance data to determine which equipment has the longest
average cycle time. Adjust out time where the equipment is not operating due to
external factors, such as being starved by an upstream process or blocked by a
downstream process. Although such time affects throughput, the time loss is usually
not caused or controlled by the starved/blocked equipment.
Ask operators where they think equipment is not keeping up with demand. Pay close
attention to these areas, but also look for other supporting indicators.
The deliverable for this step is the identification of the single piece of equipment that is
constraining process throughput.

Sleeve Attach, Armhole Topstitch, Side seam close and Collar Finish are the process
constraint; they directly affect the output of the line. If even one of these operators is
sitting idle, it will reduce the final output that is directly proportional to the losses
incurred on that workstation. Concisely, we cant afford idle time on constraint buffers.
These Constraints were identified by large accumulation of WIP on these workstations,
supervisors were frequently involved on these workstations, and these processes had
the longest average cycle time and equipment was not keeping up with the production
rate of the line.
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Step Two Exploit the Constraint
In this step, the objective is to make the most of what you have maximize throughput of
the constraint using currently available resources. The line between exploiting the
constraint (this step) and elevating the constraint (the fourth step) is not always clear. This
step focuses on quick wins and rapid relief; leaving more complex and substantive changes
for later.
Create a suitably sized inventory buffer immediately in front of the constraint to
ensure that it can keep operating even if an upstream process stops.
Check quality immediately before the constraint so only known good parts are
processed by the constraint.
Ensure that the constraint is continuously scheduled for operation (e.g. operate the
constraint during breaks, approve overtime, schedule fewer changeovers, cross-train
employees to ensure there are always skilled employees available for operating the
constraint).
Move routine maintenance activities outside of constraint production time (e.g.
during changeovers).
Offload some constraint work to other machines. Even if they are less efficient, the
improved system throughput is likely to improve overall profitability.
Offload some work to other companies. This should be a last resort if other
techniques are not sufficient to relieve the constraint.
The deliverable for this step is improved utilization of the constraint, which in turn will result
in improved throughput for the process. If the actions taken in this step break the
constraint (i.e. the constraint moves) jump ahead to Step Five. Otherwise, continue to Step
Three.

To reduce the downtime on process constraint workstations, following steps were
taken:
A constraint buffer before these workstations was created so they dont suffer
from idle time because of non-availability of WIP.
Defining Responsibility of the workers sitting just before the process constraint
workstation to always maintain the constraint buffer.
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Preventive maintenance schedule for the process constraint was brought in order to
reduce the idle time as a minute lost on process constraint if a minute lost for the whole
system.
All the operators were equipped with proper accessories; some operators didnt have
thread trimmer and production suffered earlier.
Supervisors started using Skill matrix chart and WIP level graph in order to under and
exploit the system and manpower resources in a better way.
Line Balancing practices were brought in place, new control charts were drawn for the
lines, so as to check the operator utilisation.

Step Three Subordinate and Synchronize to the Constraint
In this step, the focus is on non-constraint equipment. The primary objective is to support
the needs of the constraint (i.e. subordinate to the constraint). Efficiency of non-constraint
equipment is a secondary concern as long as constraint operation is not adversely impacted.
By definition, all non-constraint equipment has some degree of excess capacity. This excess
capacity is a virtue, as it enables smoother operation of the constraint. The manufacturing
process is purposely unbalanced:
Upstream equipment has excess capacity that ensures that the constraint buffer is
continuously filled (but not overfilled) so that the constraint is never starved by the
upstream process.
Downstream equipment has excess capacity that ensures that material from the
constraint is continually processed so the constraint is never blocked by the
downstream process.
Some useful techniques for this step include:
Implement DBR (Drum-Buffer-Rope) on the constraint as a way of synchronizing the
manufacturing process to the needs of the constraint.
Subordinate maintenance to the constraint by ensuring that the constraint is always
the highest priority for maintenance calls.
Add sprint capacity to non-constraint equipment to ensure that interruptions to their
operation (e.g. breakdowns or material changes) can quickly be offset by faster
operation and additional output.
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Operate non-constraint equipment at a steady pace to minimize stops. Frequent
inertial changes (i.e. stops and speed changes) can increase wear and result in
breakdowns.
The deliverable for this step is fewer instances of constraint operation being stopped by
upstream or downstream equipment, which in turn results in improved throughput for the
process. If the actions taken in this step break the constraint (i.e. the constraint moves)
jump ahead to Step Five. Otherwise, continue to Step Four.

Setting target for individual operation is required to maintain a continuous and constant
production flow.
For example, In order to produce a 100 pieces every hour, you must at least feed
the assembly line 100 pieces every hour and at least 100 pieces should flow
through the system bottleneck every hour.
Loading Helper was instructed to load at least 800 pieces in a day and at a
constant pace of 100 pieces every hour, now the loading in the line was
aligned and subordinated with the process constraint activity and brought
stabilisation to the line.
The process constraints were supposed to produce 800 pieces every day at a
constant pace of 100 pieces every hour.
If the rework activities are brought down, it will automatically increase the production
(No strict actions were taken until rework activities turn out to be more than 50% of
workstations production).
A new rework target for the operators was set, (5-8% of the production) if
somebody exceeds the limit, scold them.
This Aligned well with the production activities, quality manager and
executives helped and ultimately this change brought down the rework and
turned out beneficial for them.
The variation was very high in the line on individual workstations initially, at times it
was 20 pieces, at other times it was 80 pieces. Such a high level of Statistical fluctuations
affected the output of the whole line by misbalancing it and as the operations were
dependent, so one operation affected the output of the whole line.
Reasons behind it were machine breakdown/fault, thread change interval,
operators intentionally working slowly and were tackled by Preventive
Maintenance and strict disciplinary actions.
If the fluctuations range were small, production would go high.
The fluctuations came to a lower spiky level than what used to be initially at the
start of the project.
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Step Four Elevate Performance of the Constraint
In this step, more substantive changes are implemented to break the constraint. These
changes may necessitate a significant investment of time and/or money (e.g. adding
equipment or hiring more staff). The key is to ensure that all such investments are evaluated
for effectiveness (preferably using Throughput Accounting metrics).
Use performance data (e.g. Overall Equipment Effectiveness metrics plus down time
analytics) to identify the largest sources of lost productive time at the constraint.
Target the largest sources of lost productive time, one-by-one, with cross-functional
teams.
Implement ongoing plant floor reviews within shifts (a technique called Short
Interval Control) to identify tactical actions that will improve constraint
performance.
Implement a setup reduction program to reduce the amount of productive time lost
to changeovers.
Evaluate the constraint for potential design updates and/or component upgrades.
Purchase additional equipment to supplement the constraint (a last resort).
The deliverable for this step is a significant enough performance improvement to break the
constraint (i.e. move the constraint elsewhere).

Sleeve Attach, Armhole Topstitch, Side seam close and Collar Finish were initially the
constraint and would jump from one to another, but after a time period, Armhole Top
Stitch was the main Bottleneck.
The capacity of the constraint was elevated by putting one more operator for the
operation and Constraint jumped from Armhole Top Stitch to Side Seam Close.
The average daily production of the line before elevating the constraint was 600 pieces
per day which got a bump to an average of 750 pieces per day.
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Step Five Repeat the Process
In this step, the objective is to ensure that the Five Focusing Steps are not implemented as a
one-off improvement project. Instead, they should be implemented as a continuous
improvement process.
If the constraint has been broken (the normal case), recognize that there is a new
constraint. Finding and eliminating the new constraint is the new priority (restart at
Step One).
If the constraint has not been broken, recognize that more work is required, and a
fresh look needs to be taken, including verifying that the constraint has been
correctly identified (restart at Step One).
This step also includes a cautionbeware of inertia. Remain vigilant and ensure that
improvement is ongoing and continuous.

The constraint jumped to Side seam close and was not broken until some sort of
absenteeism happened and no replacement was available for the day, but it was a rare
event and could be tackled by multi-skilling of operators.

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INTEGRATING THEORY OF CONSTRAINTS WITH LEAN
Contrasting Theory of Constraints and Lean Manufacturing
The Theory of Constraints and Lean Manufacturing are both systematic methods for
improving manufacturing effectiveness. However, they have very different approaches:
The Theory of Constraints focuses on identifying and removing constraints that limit
throughput. Therefore, successful application tends to increase manufacturing
capacity.
Lean Manufacturing focuses on eliminating waste from the manufacturing process.
Therefore, successful application tends to reduce manufacturing costs.
Both methodologies have a strong customer focus and are capable of transforming
companies to be faster, stronger, and more agile. Nonetheless, there are significant
differences, as highlighted in the following table.
What? Theory of Constraints Lean Manufacturing
Objective Increase throughput. Eliminate waste.
Focus Singular focus on the constraint (until
it is no longer the constraint).
Broad focus on the elimination of
waste from the manufacturing process.
Result Increased manufacturing capacity. Reduced manufacturing cost.
Inventory Maintain sufficient inventory to
maximize throughput at the
constraint.
Eliminate virtually all inventory.
Line
Balancing
Create imbalance to maximize
throughput at the constraint.
Create balance to eliminate waste
(excess capacity).
Pacing Constraint sets the pace (Drum-
Buffer-Rope).
Customer sets the pace (Takt Time).

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Some other Recommendations
Supervisors moving clamp at end line inspection table to display a bigger production
figure on display for the hour is a short term solution.
Garment Pieces must not be kept at Empty workstation.
Multi-skilling of worker in a factory where operator absenteeism is a big issue could
help.
You are not always more Intelligent than a Computer System. An Example:
If 2 operators are carrying out the same operation, many a times, the supervisor moves
clamps from a heavily loaded workstation to a less loaded workstation in order to maintain
a balance in the line, but it causes a counter effect, instead it misbalances the line more
than the original situation as it confuses the system about the number of clamps on a
workstation, this happens every day on a lot of workstations.
The final effect of the situation is that the workstation remains empty and the
system shows it to be full and doesnt allow the workstation before it to push clamps
to it.
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NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
Designing Preventive Maintenance Schedule for
Garment Manufacturing Unit.
Sewing Machine Maintenance Checklist

Ashutosh Kumar
8/21/2012

This Project was carried out at BOMBAY RAYON FASHIONS LIMITED, Doddaballapur Garment
manufacturing unit 7B between 21st May 2012 - 21st August 2012.
108 | P a g e

Sewing Machine Maintenance Check List
Preventive Maintenance - General Instructions.
Check to see if the machines are being kept clean
Machines should be blown off every day to remove lint and trash.
On lockstitch machines, the hook should be blown off regularly during the day to
prevent lint or dirt from building up in the oil ports in the race of the hook
Check to see that the machines are being lubricated regularly
Oil levels should be checked daily and additional oil added if necessary
A high quality white machine oil should be used that will not stain
Check availability of proper machine oil in the factory
Check to make sure the oil is not contaminated
Check to see that oil reservoir pump filters are cleaned regularly
If compressed air is used, make sure the air system is regulated properly and has
humidity dryers, filters and lubricator in the air lines.
Check for rusted areas due to excessive moisture in production area
Check Machines for wear on critical moving parts
Check for shake in needle bar due to worn needle bar bushings
Check for excessive movement in stitch forming devices, etc.
Check condition of critical screws
Check for missing screws
Check for defective screws that are difficult to tighten properly
Check condition of mechanics tools to see that they are being maintained properly.
* With buttonhole or other specialized equipment, cleaning of the machine should not be
done with compressed air but with a soft bristle brush.
Every sewing machine has three basic systems used to form and set the stitch. These three
systems include:
1. Stitch forming system;
2. Thread handling System; and
3. Feed System.

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Stitch Forming System
The sewing machine needle should be inspected regularly during the day and replaced if
there are signs of wear or damage
The correct type & size of needle should be used
Wovens - sharp pointed needles
o On light weight fabrics where structural jamming can cause seam puckering,
the finest needle size should be used with a long-point
Knits - ball pointed needles of the finest size should be used
The correct needle size - thread size relationship should be maintained
Lockstitch machines
o Check the hook for sharp surfaces and burrs on the hook point
o Check for other sharp surfaces on other thread contact surfaces
o Check for excessive wear in the raceway which will allow excessive
movement in the basket
Chain stitch & Overedge machines
o Check the looper points for sharp surfaces or burrs*
o Observe excessive wear of looper
o Check to make sure loopers are shaped properly according to original factory
condition
* Observe method of removal of entangled thread on loopers. Sharp objects that can nick or
burr the loopers should NOT be used.
Thread Handling System
Check to make sure thread is being stored properly
o Cones should be stored properly to insure that they are not contaminated
with dirt, excessive lint, etc.
o Check to make sure wind on part cones does not affect take-off the cone
Check to make sure the correct thread type and sizes are being used
o If thread vendor is specified, check order book and inventory to make sure
the proper thread is being used
o Thread stands are in proper condition and the top eyelets are oriented
properly
o Optimum distance between the top of cone & top eyelet (should be no more
than one cone higher than cone size being used)
o Thread stand eyelets are smooth and not grooved or damaged
o Cone is held in a vertical stationary position
Machine eyelets and guides are smooth and not grooved, rusted or damaged
110 | P a g e

Machine thread tensions are as light as possible but still give balanced stitches
o Observe how much of the tension post is exposed beyond the tension nut
Generally the more of the tension post that is visible, the more
tension that is being applied to the sewing thread
o Observe the condition of the tension discs, take-up spring, etc.
Check the bottom tension to make sure it is as loose as possible and still give a
balance stitch

Lockstitch machines
o Bobbin winder in good condition & making correct wind on bobbins
o Condition of bobbins & bobbin tension
Look for nicks on edge of bobbins indicating incorrect needle height
Look for damaged or bent bobbins
o Check bobbin tension (minimum tension recommended)
Bobbin tension of bobbin case
Bobbin tension with bobbin case laying on a flat surface
Bobbin tension after bobbin thread has been pulled up through the
hole in the needle plate
o Needle thread
Machines are properly threaded
Needle thread tension is as light as possible but still give a balanced
stitch
Take-up spring in proper positioned and working properly
o Proper thread size / needle size relationship is being maintained
o Proper needle thread size / bobbin thread size is being used
Feed System
Needle Plates are in good condition
o Make sure the needle hole size /needle size relationship is correct
Generally the needle hole size should be twice the diameter of the
needle being used
Check to make sure the needle hole in the needle plate is not
damaged
Look for needle damage and sharp edges
Check to see if the needle plate is flat and not bent down at the
needle hole
Chain stitch needle plates
o Observe to see that the length of the needle hole slot is greater than the
stitch length
111 | P a g e

o Observe to see that the underside of the needle hole is shaped correctly to
aid in forming a proper triangle
Feed Dogs are in good condition and correct for the application
o Check to make sure the feed are not broken or damaged
o Observe the teeth per inch on the feed dog
Generally the following should be found: light weight sewing - 20 - 24
teeth per inch; medium weight sewing - 14 - 18 tpi; heavy weight
sewing - 10 - 12 tpi
Overedge Needle Plates
o Check for needle damage or burrs on the needle hole and stitch tongue
o Make sure the trimming knives are adjusted to the width of the needle plate
stitch tongue
Presser Foot
o Correct foot is being used for the application
o Make sure the needle hole size/needle size relation is correct & the needle
has sufficient clearance
o Check to make sure the needle hole is not damaged
o Check for proper pressure both in front and in back of the needle
o With the foot flat on the needle plate, you should not be able to insert a thin
piece of paper between the foot and the needle plate from the front or back
side of the needle
o Check presser foot for excessive wear causing side-to-side play
The pressure on the Presser Foot should be as light as possible and give a uniform
stitch length
Check to make sure the correct stitch length is being used
Other Systems
Material Trimming Systems
o Check to see that the cutting knives are sharp and are trimming properly. This
can be checked by placing a single end of thread between the knives and
observing if the thread is cut by the knives
Thread Trimming System
o Check to see that the chain cutters are cutting the chain to the proper length
that minimizes trim & inspect
Folders & Guides
o Observe to see that the correct capacity folder is being used for the fabric
being sewn
Check for additional folds caused by excessive folder capacity
Check for excessive stretching of the fabric causing additional seam
puckering
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Stitch & Seam Quality
Lockstitch seams
o Check to see that the stitch looks the same on both the top and bottom of
the seam
o If back tacking is required, make sure the correct number of stitches are used
in the back tack
Make sure the proper SPI are being used
Make sure the correct seam allowance (margin) is being maintained

Chain stitch seams
o Make sure the stitch is balanced properly
o Check for excessive seam grinning
o Looper thread should roll over

Overedge seams
o On overedge seams, check for proper stitch balance
o Check for excessive seam grinning
o Check for proper seam extensibility or stitch elongation
o Check to make sure that the purl is on the edge of the seam
o Check to make sure the knives are trimming the fabric cleanly
o Check to make sure the correct seam allowance (margin) is being maintained
o Observe operator handling for excessive trim
o If latch-tacking, make sure the chain is sewn into the seam properly

Skipped Stitches
o Check areas where frequent skips have been observed
o Observe where one seam crosses another seam
o Check if skip occurs on thickness or after thickness

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