CUTTING LINE SIZE WAIST HIPS

XS (size 4) 26" (68 cm) 36" (91.5 cm)

S (sizes 68) 9" (74.3 cm) 38" (96.5 cm)
M (sizes 1012) 31" (80.5 cm) 40" (103 cm)
L (sizes 1416) 34" (88.3 cm) 43" (110.5 cm)
XL (sizes 1820) 38" (98.5 cm) 47" (120.5 cm)
Assembling Full-size
PAttern Printout
1
To ensure that the
pattern has printed
at the correct scale,
check the size of the
TEST SQUARE. The
Test Square should be
2" 2" (5 cm 5 cm).
2
To begin assem
bling the pattern, cut
off or fold the dotted
margin around each
page.
3
The pages are
numbered in rows, so the frst row of pages is numbered 1a, 1b,
1c, etc. Line up the rows and match the dotted lines together so
they overlap. Tape the pages together. Use the illustrated guide to
match each piece. Once complete, fnd your size, pin your pattern
to the fabric and follow the coordinating line to cut out or trace
the pattern.
GettinG Started
Basic techniques & terms
youll need to know for the
pattern you have downloaded.
Test Square
2 2" [5 5 cm]
Layout, MarkinG & CuttinG GuideLineS
1
Find the lines that correspond to your size and trace the
pattern pieces, either on tissue paper or directly onto the fabric,
using tracing paper and a tracing wheel.
2
If you are cutting pattern pieces on the fold or cutting two
of the same pattern piece, fold the fabric in half, selvedge to
selvedge, with right sides facing.
3
Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric as close together as pos
sible. Double check that all pattern pieces cut on the fold are
placed on the fold.
4
Make sure all pattern pieces are placed on the fabric with the
grain line running parallel to the lengthwise grain.
5
Copy all pattern markings onto the wrong side of the fabric.
6
Read through all cutting instructions listed in the project
instructions for directions on how many pattern pieces to cut out
of your fabric and interfacing.
7
Use weights to hold the pattern pieces down and use pins to
secure the corners as needed.
8
Cut the pieces slowly and carefully.
CuttinG LineS Multisize patterns
have different cutting lines for each size.
PLaCe on foLd braCket This is
a grain line marking with arrows pointing
to the edge of the pattern. Place on the fold
of the fabric so that your fnished piece
will be twice the size of the pattern piece,
without adding a seam.
Grain Line The double ended arrow
should be parallel to the lengthwise grain
or fold.
notCheS Notches are triangle shaped
symbols used for accurately matching
seams. Pieces to be joined will have cor
responding notches.
dartS Dashed lines and dots mark darts.
The dashed lines show where the stitching
will be, and the dot shows you the position
of the dart point (signaling the point, near
the end of the dart, where your stitching
should taper down to the end).
driLL hoLeS Circles with crossed
lines inside. These indicate an area where
a mark needs to be made, often indicat
ing dart points, but otherwise explained in
the pattern instructions.
SLaSh MarkS Long lines indicating an
area to make a slash. Further instructions
for making the slash will be included in the
pattern instructions.
PAttern symbols & mArkings
Here is a quick reference guide to the symbols and mark
ings on the patterns.
pattern
size
chArt
Samples shown in
size Small.
place
interweavestitch.com
*
seams and hem down at, toward the wrong
side. Now, starting at the waist, fold " (1.3 cm)
of the hem and side seams under so that the
mitered corner now ows evenly into them and
pin. Topstitch from the waist down to the miter
seam, about
3
8" (1 cm) from the outside edge.
Here, stop in the seam, and with your needle
still down, turn and continue to topstitch along
the hem. Repeat when you reach the other
mitered corner, and stitch up the other side.
Press at.
PUT IT ALL TOGETHER
8
With both pieces right side out, match the
side seam of the skirt body to the center notch
on the apron at the waist. Match the nished
edges (sides) of the apron to the middle notches
on the skirt body and baste the two pieces to-
gether at the waist. Run another basting stitch
1" (2.5 cm) from the waist edge; this will help
when pressing down the waist casing (youll
see).
9
On the right side of the apron at the nished
edge, measure down from the top edge 1"
(3.2 cm) and over about " (1.3 cm). From this
point mark a " (1.3 cm) long horizontal line for
a buttonhole. Stitch the buttonhole through both
layers. Be sure to clip it open!
0
Press both layers down 1" (2.5 cm) toward
the wrong side, all around the waist of the skirt,
to form a casing. If you have not already nished
the edges, turn the raw edge of the casing un-
der " (6 mm) and press. Topstitch the casing
about
5
8" (1.5 cm) from the top edge (if the raw
edges were not turned under, you can topstitch
about
7
8" [22.2 cm] from the top edge). You
are almost done!
-
Fold one drawstring piece in half, length-
wise, with right sides together. Sew the seam
along the long side using a " (1.3 cm) seam
allowance. Leave the top and bottom open. Re-
peat the entire step with the other drawstring
piece. Now trim the seam allowances on both
pieces to " (6 mm). Using a point turner, turn
both pieces right side out, then tuck in the raw
edges at one end of each piece about " (6 mm)
and backstitch them together, end to end. You
now have a very long drawstring that measures
about 63 (64, 65, 67, 69)" (160 [162.5, 166.5,
170.5, 175.5] cm).
=
Attach a safety pin to one end of the
drawstring. Insert the safety pin through the
buttonhole and work the safety pin along the
casing until it comes all the way around, back
to the buttonhole. Pull it back out through the
buttonhole and pull until the two sides of the
drawstring are even. Trim, if necessary, to the
length you want. Tie a knot at each end. Now tie
a nice bow and voil, you are done.
JiL CaPPuCCio has been a designer, seam
stress, and shopkeeper for well over a decade.
She creates her one of a kind clothing from found
fabrics at her studio/shop in Denver, Colorado.
Visit her online at jilcappuccio.com
by JiL CaPPuCio
FABRIC
1 (1, 1
1
8, 1
1
8, 1
1
8) yd (91.5 cm [91.5 cm, 1, 1, 1
m]) Tencel (at least 45" [114.5 cm] wide for XS,
S, and M; at least 52" [132 cm] wide for L and
XL) for skirt body

1
3 yd (27.5 cm) each of Tencel (at least 45"
[114.5 cm] wide) in 3 colors for apron
OTHER SUPPLIES:
Matching sewing thread for skirt body
Matching sewing thread for darkest color of
apron fabric
Pinking shears or serger (optional)
Point turner for mitered corners
Large safety pin
LAY OUT PATTERN AND CUT OUT FABRIC
1
Cut out, notch, and mark all pieces from the
fabric using the provided pattern and cut each
of the contrast pieces from a different color.
Transfer all markings to your fabric:
Skirt Body: cut 1 on fold, notch at
center waist (on fold)
Contrast 1: cut 1 on fold
Contrast 2: cut 1 on fold
Contrast 3: cut 1 on fold
Mark and cut 2 rectangles out of the skirt-body
fabric, each measuring " (2 cm) wide x 31
(32, 33, 33, 34)" (80.5 [82, 84, 85.5, 88.5] cm)
long for the drawstring.
Finish the side seams of all pieces and the top
and bottom edges of the contrast 1 and skirt-
body pieces (waist and hem edges) by pinking
or serging the edges or use the zigzag stitch
on your sewing machine (alternatively, for the
waist and hem edges, you can leave them raw
and nish them by turning under the edges;
instructions for this option are included). Do not
nish the other edges yet.
MAKE SKIRT BODY
2
Take the skirt-body piece and fold it in half
lengthwise, with right sides together, match-
ing the notches and marks at the side seam.
Starting at the top of the skirt, sew the side
seam, using a " (1.3 cm) seam allowance, to
the mark for the side slit. Be sure to backstitch
at the mark to reinforce the top of the side slit.
Press the 1" (2.5 cm) aps (below the side slit
mark) and the side seams open.
3
Flip the skirt right side out. For the mitered
corner, fold up the bottom notch (at the bottom
corner) to meet the notch above it, with right
sides together, making sure the raw edges
match up. Sew a seam along the raw edges of
this corner, using a " (6 mm) seam allow-
ance. Repeat for the other mitered corner. Turn
the nished corners toward the wrong side of
the skirt and use a point turner to turn out the
points nicely.
4
Press the 1" (2.5 cm) aps and hem (created
when the mitered corners were turned toward
the wrong side) at. If you have not already
nished the edges, turn the raw edges under "
(6 mm) and press. Topstitch the aps and hem
about
5
8" (1.5 cm) from the outer edge (if the raw
edges were not turned under, you can topstitch
about
7
8" [22.2 cm] from the outer edge).
MAKE APRON
5
Place the contrast 1 piece right sides to-
gether with the contrast 2 piece, matching the
bottom notch of the contrast 1 piece to the top
notch of the contrast 2 piece and matching the
side notches. Stitch together this seam using a
" (1.3 cm) seam allowance. Press this seam
up toward the waist of the apron (the top of the
contrast 1 piece). Finish the seam allowances
with pinking shears, or serge or zigzag them
together.
6
Take that nished piece and match the bot-
tom notches of the contrast 2 piece to the top
notches of the contrast 3 piece and match the
side notches, with right sides together. Stitch
together this seam using a " (1.3 cm) seam
allowance. Press the seam up toward the waist
of the apron and nish the seam allowances as
in step 5. Turn the apron right side out. For the
mitered corner at the bottom of the apron (on
the contrast 3 piece), fold at the corner, as in
step 3, with right sides together (make sure that
the middle notches also match up). Sew a seam
along the raw edges of this corner, using a "
(6 mm) seam allowance, from the bottom cor-
ner to the rst notch (the middle notches that
were matched up). Repeat for the other mitered
corner. Turn the nished corners toward the
wrong side of the apron and use a point turner
to turn out the points nicely.
7
To nish the apron edge cleanly, use the
notch at the top of the apron (the top of the
contrast 1 piece) and the point of your nished
corner as a guide to press the 1" (2.5 cm) side
1
a
1
b
1
c
1
d
1
e
1
f
1
g
1
h
1
i
2
a
2
b
2
c
2
d
2
e
2
f
2
g
2
h
2
i
3
a
3
b
3
c
3
d
3
e
3
f
3
g
3
h
3
i

a
p
r
o
n

s
k
i
r
t
s
k
i
r
t

b
o
d
y
a
p
r
o
n

s
k
i
r
t
c
o
n
t
r
a
s
t

2
a
p
r
o
n

m
i
d
d
l
e

1
a
p
r
o
n

s
k
i
r
t
c
o
n
t
r
a
s
t

3
a
p
r
o
n

b
o
t
t
o
m
a
p
r
o
n

s
k
i
r
t
c
o
n
t
r
a
s
t

1
a
p
r
o
n

t
o
p
p
l
a
c
e
p
l
a
c
e
p
l
a
c
e
p
l
a
c
e
1a
2












1b
2b












1c
2












1d
2d












1e
2












1f
2f












1g
2












1h
2h












1i
2i












2a












2b












2c

apron skirt
skirt body









2d












2e












2f









apron skirt
contrast 1
apron top
2g



apron skirt
contrast 2
apron middle 1






2h












2i






apron skirt
contrast 3
apron bottom



3a












3b












3c












place
3d












3e












3f












place
3g












place
3h












1a 1b 1c 1d 1e 1f 1g 1h 1i
2a 2b 2c 2d 2e 2f 2g 2h 2i
3a 3b 3c 3d 3e 3f 3g 3h 3i

apron skirt
skirt body
apron skirt
contrast 2
apron middle 1
apron skirt
contrast 3
apron bottom
apron skirt
contrast 1
apron top
place