'Oi you...pig face! Wot you doin' wiv tha' fing?

'
snarled Thogg the Orc warrior.
'I's stickin' me tribal standard up top so tha'
we can all see it.' replied the aged Vandaal.
'Who sez we all want ta see it in da first place,
dung-feature?' Thogg grunted. Whilst still
continuing to erect the crimson tribal pennant,
the crusty old Orc replied, 'Da Clan Festerdoom
is da most Orcs 'ere.'
Tribal affinities often cut across regimental
allegiance and indeed, as Vandaal said, many
of the troops in the great army heading north,
were connected to the Clan Festerdoom.
'Oh, an' 'ave you been countin' then?'
'Well...' Like most goblinoids, Vandaal had
trouble counting up to any number which a part
of his anatomy could not represent. Thogg
continued; 'We Black Eyes outnumber you a
zillion to one. Our flag'll be da one ta go up.'
'Over my mangy corpse.'
'Dat's easily dun.'
'Aggggggggghhhh!'
Thogg wiped his jagged blade clean and began
to design a makeshift banner for the Orcs of the
Black Eye... over Vandaal's dead body. Within
seconds the word spread throughout that entire
section of the vast encamped army:
'Festerdooms is bein' insulted.'
'Vandaal's 'ad 'is bruggs cut off*.' 'It's a bloomin'
Black Eye invasion.'
'Dems Festerbreaths 'ave declared war.'
'ATTACK, ATTACK, ATTACK!'
Translator's note: Bruggs are a valued part
of Orcish anatomy
Soon, nearby Orcs of all regiments were
gathering to fight under one of the two tribal
banners, whether they were clan members or
not. To make matters worse, other troops formed
into groups of their own and began to attack
anybody else who came within an unreasonable
range. Shortly, chaos reigned.
It is the year 5513 (Dwarf Date) in the Old
World. A massive Dwarf army from Caraz-a-
Carak has destroyed dozens of Goblin bases in
a heroic raid on the Mad Dog Pass. In response
to this outrage, a massive Orc army has been
assembled and it is now journeying north,
towards the pass, from the southernmost parts
of the World's Edge Mountains. The plan is to
put the Dwarfs firmly back into their stunted
place!
However, approximately every 50 miles of
walking is punctuated by some part of the bored
army breaking into a fight. As this is an expected
manifestation of Orc psychology, the Chaos
leaders of the force allow these minor skirmishes
to go on, as long as they do not seriously affect
the strength of the army as a whole.
Chaos Marauders is a game for 2 to 4 players
with each player representing one of the sides
in the Orc Tribal dispute. The fighting is stopped
by the army's powerful commanders before it
gets too serious. This is when one of the tribal
groups is in battle formation (ie it has three
complete battle-lines).
The winner is the player whose battle-lines
contain the highest number of valuable items,
such as Orc Grog, treasure and the like. This tribe
is "da best" and it gets to fly its banner above
all the other tribal flags (a position of great
prestige)...at least until the next fight.
3.1 The main rules of play can be found on
a separate sheet but before you play, it
would be wise to read the complete
rulebook from start to finish. At first, it
may look as if there are a lot of confusing
rules but don't worry if you can't remember
all of them. As you play you will see that
many of them actually deal with minor
specific questions which may arise during
play, and are there to sort out any
problems... or arguments!
Just play the game and then read the rules
again to see if there's anywhere where you
may have gone wrong. After a few games
you will only need to refer to the summary
sheet, if anything at all.
3.2 To help you, the rules are arranged in
numbered sections. Each section deals with
a different element of play and is further
broken down into a series of numbered
points with each point being a different rule
for that section. So, for example, 3.2 refers
you to the second rule in section three
(which, as you can see, is this very rule).
The section number always comes before
the rule number.
If you look at the Cube of Devastation, you will
see that although it has six sides, it does not
A copy of the Chaos Marauders game should
contain the following:
4 playsheets for the players' cards,
showing the area where the crazed
skirmish takes place
112 colour cards, representing troops,
war machines, booty and the like
1 summary of play and background
booklet
* 1 Cube of Devastation (or a 'dice' for
wimps),
* 16 Sneaky Git Control Markers (4 sets
of 4 colours)
* 1 rulebook (what you're reading now)
If any of these items are missing or damaged,
please write to:
Chaos Marauders Components,
Games Workshop Ltd, Chewton Street,
Hill Top, Eastwood, Notts, NG16 3HY.
resemble any other dice which you will have
seen. It has no numbers on it, and you will see
that all the sides bear an identical symbol (a red
Orcish Eye) except for one. This side bears the
Mark of Chaos in black. When asked to roll the
Cube of Devastation, do so as normal but only
if the Cube lands with the Mark of Chaos
showing, will the roll mean anything. Don't
worry about this for now as the rules will tell
you when to roll the Cube, and what the possible
outcomes may be.
5.1 There are 112 colourful cards in Chaos
Marauders each one showing a tiny part
of the vast Orc army. You will see that as
well as having a picture, each card has
certain numbers and symbols. These
markings have an important bearing on
play and are explained later on.
5.2 It is these cards which are used to form
battle-lines, with the troops on them facing
towards the left side of the card. Place a
couple of the cards side by side and you
will see that they join to form a longer
picture. As your battle-lines grow during
play, you will get to see a whole horde of
Orcs and other foul creatures marching
from right to left across your playsheet.
5.3 The cards can be divided into five groups
according to the splash of colour shown
behind each card's title. These colour
groups tell you what kind of 'thing' the
card is (e.g. all cards with a Red splash
are parts of a war machine set). The
various groups and markings, are as
follows:
5.4 Blue - Booty.
These cards show the things which Orcs
value, and, if possessed, are a measure of
a tribe's status. Each card has no effect on
play as such but is worth Victory Points
at the end of the game (see 14.0).
5.5 Green - Special Cards.
These cards represent special items and
individuals which affect play in particularly
unusual ways (see 13.3). It should be noted
that only some of these special cards have
an Attack Rating or Victory Points. Others
have neither, being useful only through
their unusual effects. Once you play, or
discard a Green Card, your turn ends.
5.6 Grey - Goblin Units.
These cards depict the lesser goblinoid
units which are being dragged along with
the overall army. As a rule, Goblins are a
lot weaker than Orcs and so are no good
in this particular skirmish. They are not
worth any Victory Points either (would you
treasure a spotty little goblin?). However,
the Hobgoblin Standards and Musicians
can still be very useful to you (see 9.3).
5.7 Purple - Regular Troops.
These cards represent the Troops (largely
Orcs) which form the bulk of the massive
army. The card's title shows the name of
the regiment, religion, or clan which the
troops belongs to. These cards are 'only'
useful in combat and generally they take
up the most places in a battle-line.
5.8 Red - War Machines.
These cards come in special sets of three
(see 13.6) and represent the army's
'firepower'. The Attack Rating and Victory
Points can only be used if the whole set
has been collected and assembled correctly.
5.9 The Attack Rating (printed in red on the
card) shows a card's strength in battle and
can be anything from 1 to 10 (1 being the
weakest and 10 the toughest). Cards
without an attack rating are useless in
battle. The Attack Rating is only used when
the card is involved in an attack (see 11.3).
5.10 The Card Title simply states what the card
is supposed to be. Some cards have an
asterisk by their title which means that
there is something special about the way
in which that card may be played. The
relevant rules sections (see 13.0) should
always be consulted until you are totally
familiar with the use of all the cards. There
are no asterisks on the Green cards (see
13.3) as all of these are special.
5.11 The Symbol is used for finding which cards
are duplicates (see 10.2) - ie two cards with
matching symbols are duplicates. Cards
with matching Symbols also have identical
Card Titles, but the Symbols enable faster
recognition.
5.12 The Victory Points (printed in Purple) on
all the different cards are totalled at the end
of the game to find out who is the winner
(see section 14.2). Cards with no Victory
Points are worthless in this respect.
5.13 Rules and other important information on
all the cards can be found in Section 13.0.
6.1 Each player should take one of the four
playsheets and place it face up in front of
him. The playsheet has on it a grid of card
sized boxes into which the cards are placed
during play.
6.2 Each player should also take one of the
coloured sets of Sneaky Git control
markers. You only use these if you draw
a Sneaky Git card from the draw pile. All
this is explained in detail in 13.3vii.
6.3 Decide, it does not matter how, which
player will go first. Then, a different player
should thoroughly shuffle all the cards and
place them, face down, in a single pile
within reach of all the players. This is the
draw pile. After this is done (and it is
important that the cards are well shuffled),
you are ready to begin play.
7.1 When it is your turn (the first player as
decided in 6.3 has first turn), you take the
top card from the draw pile and place it
face up on your playsheet (8.0).
7.2 You then take the next card from the top
of the draw pile and place it on your sheet
in the same way, and so on until you pick
up a Turn Ending card (10.0). You may (or
may not) place the Turn Ending card on
your playsheet (depending upon the actual
card - see section 10.0). Either way, your
turn ends. Play of some special cards (13.3)
may also lead to the end of your turn.
7.3 You may voluntarily end your turn, if you
draw a card which you do not want to use
or place on your playsheet. In this case,
you merely discard it (see 7.6) and your
turn ends.
7.4 Play then passes to the player on your left
who proceeds in exactly the same manner
as outlined above.
7.5 Each player continues to place cards on
their playsheets in turn, with each turn
ending when a Turn Ending card (10.0)
is drawn (or when a card is drawn which
the player does not wish to use), and with
play passing clockwise.
7.6 When cards are discarded they should be
placed face up on a discards pile. Cards may
never be drawn from the discards but when
the draw pile is exhausted (ie all the cards
have been taken) the discards should be
thoroughly reshuffled and placed face
down to form a new draw pile.
7.7 All Green cards are ignored during the first
round of play. Should you draw one in your
first turn, discard it immediately (do not
follow the card's usual instructions) and
carry on drawing cards as normal.
8.1 Cards are placed into the boxes on the
playsheet with the aim of assembling three
complete battle-lines (9.0). Looking at the
playsheet, you can see that there are three
horizontal rows of sixteen boxes. One
battle-line is to be completed on each row.
You must not start to build two or more
battle-lines on the same row.
8.2 Cards may be placed anywhere on the
playsheet, in any of the boxes - either next
to each other or with free boxes left in
between (see 8.1, 9.0).
8.3 You may not reposition a card once it has
been placed onto the playsheet.
8.4 You draw and place cards in this way until
you draw a Turn Ending Card (10.0).
8.5 Some cards allow you to place cards on the
playsheets of the other players (for
example, 13.3iv and 13.3vii). You may
place such cards anywhere on that player's
sheet with two restrictions. First of all, you
may not place the card in any box at either
end of the playsheet (where only Standards
and Musicians may be placed - see 9.3),
and you must place the card within three
boxes of a card already on that player's
battle- line - ie there must be a maximum
of two empty boxes between the card you
are placing and one already on the same
line of the playsheet.
If you place a card on an empty line of the
playsheet, then you may place it in any
box except for those at the extreme ends
where only Standards and Musicians may
be placed (see 9.3).
9.1 Cards are placed on the playsheet with the
aim of assembling three complete battle-
lines. Battle-lines are assembled under the
following rules:
9.2 A battle-line may be of any length provided
that it is at least four cards long yet not
longer than sixteen cards (which, as you
can see, corresponds with the grid length
on the playsheet).
9.3 Each battle-line must begin with a Standard
and end with a Musician (ie the extreme
left hand card of the battle-line must be
a Standard card, and the extreme right a
Musician card - see 9.4). The flag leads
the way into battle, and the horns
and drums noisily bring up the rear. Cards
may not be placed to the left of a Standard
or to the right of a Musician.
Because of this rule, it is the case that
the boxes at the ends of the grids may only
ever have Standards or Musicians placed
in them. If anything else were placed in
them, then the line could not end in a
Standard or Musician as it is supposed to.
Also, a battle-line must have at least two
other cards in it as well as the Standard
and the Musician. So, each line must be
at least four cards long.
9.4 Standards and Musicians may be of any
type. That is to say, there may be an Orc
Regimental Standard at one end of the line
and a Hobgoblin Musician at the other. For
assembly purposes, it makes no difference
what race the Standard or Musician
belongs to. The difference is only important
should the battle-line be involved in an
attack as the Hobgoblins are weaker,
having no Attack Rating - see section 11.0.
9.5 You may only ever have one Standard and
one Musician, of any type, on a line of your
playsheet. If you draw a second, it must
either go onto a different line or be
discarded. For these purposes it does not
matter if the second card is a duplicate,
according to 10.2, or not.
For example, if you place an Orc
Regimental Standard in the extreme left
hand box of a line, you are committed
to building your battle-line up to that
card. If you later draw a Hobgoblin
Standard, even though it is not a
duplicate, you may not place it on the
same line, say, a bit closer to other cards
which are already on the playsheet (but
more towards its right end), enabling you
to complete the line more quickly.
9.6 Any one battle-line may not have two
duplicate cards, that is, two cards with the
same Symbol (see 10.2). When you draw
a duplicate card, it must be placed in a
battle-line other than the one which
already contains the matching card. And
as you may have only one duplicate per
line, it is the case that you may never have
more than three duplicates (one per line)
on your playsheet.
9.7 A battle-line is incomplete until it has a
Musician, a Standard and at least two other
cards in it with no spaces in between them.
When a line is finished it is called a
complete battle- line. A newly completed
battle-line may then attack an incomplete
enemy battle-line - see 11.0.
Of the examples below, only the top line
is a correctly completed battle-line. The
middle one has a space in it as well as an
illegal duplicate (the two Spoil Heaps and
not the two Blightskabb Plague Lords cards
which are legal - see 13.5i), making it
incomplete and illegal. The bottom line,
though it has a Musician, a Standard and
no spaces, is illegal as it is less than four
cards in length.
A = Orc Regimental Standard I = Spoil Heap
B = Chaos Marauders J = Crummy Snotling Slaves
C = Idol K = Blightskabb Plague Lords
D = Claws of Malal L = Spoil Heap
E = Grivziz Dirtballs M = Orc Regimental Musician
F = Hobgoblin Musician N = Hobgoblin Standard
G = Orc Regimental Standard O = Bozlum Pigsticker
H = Blightskabb Plague Lords P = Hobgoblin Musician
10.1 When you draw one of the following
cards, your turn ends and play passes
to the player on your left:
10.2 If you draw a duplicate card (ie one
bearing a symbol which is identical to
one displayed by a card already on your
playsheet), you may place the newly
drawn duplicate card on your playsheet
and immediately after doing so, your turn
ends (see 9.6).
If you draw a fourth duplicate, it is
discarded (7.6) and your turn ends. A
duplicate is also discarded if say, the only
battle-line on a playsheet without an
identical symbol in it, is a complete line,
with no room for the card (see 9.7).
Again, if this occurs, your turn ends.
Your turn does not end if the duplicate
drawn enables you to complete one of
your battle-lines in which case that
battle-line may make an attack (see
section 11.1). Only after the line has
made its attack (or not) does your turn
end.
All duplicates rules only apply to what
you currently have on your playsheet and
not to all the cards which you have had
at one time or another during the game.
For example, if you have three
duplicates on your playsheet, lose one
(for any reason, such as being beaten in
an attack), and then draw a fourth, you
may take the fourth because there are
only two duplicates currently on your
playsheet.
Any player found to have two or more
duplicates illegally in his battle-line must
discard both of them the instant this is
discovered!! This penalty should be
reserved for deliberate cheats and so
players should not be too hasty in
applying this penalty. If a player is
spotted actually putting a duplicate card
into a line, he should just be told that
his placing is illegal and should be
corrected.
10.3 If you have three Standards or three
Musicians and you draw a fourth, the
fourth is discarded and your turn ends.
Unlike rule 10.2 the fourth card need not
be a duplicate as such - see 9.5.
For example, you have three Hobgoblin
Standards and one Orc Regimental
Musician. You then draw an Orc
Regimental Standard which must be
discarded, for while it is not a duplicate
according to 10.2, you may only have
one Musician or Standard per battle-line
9.5.
And, just to clarify, if you only had one
Orc Regimental Standard on your
playsheet before drawing a second Orc
Regimental Standard, the latter does
qualify as a usual duplicate according to
10.2, and your turn ends.
10.4 Finally, after dealing with any of the
Green special cards (see 13.3) your turn
ends, irrespective of what happens as a
result of following the card's instructions.
10.5 If you draw a card which does not belong
to any of the cases above, yet one which
you do not want to use or put on your
playsheet, then you may discard it (see
7.6) and your turn ends.
11.1 Once a battle-line has just been
completed (see 9.7) by taking a card from
the draw pile (even if it is a card which
would normally end your turn - see
10.0), or by using a Venomous Creep
(13.3viii), it can attack any incomplete
battle-line (see rule 9.7) of any other
opponent provided that the Attack Value
of the attacking line is greater than the
Attack Value of the incomplete line - see
11.3. You may not attack complete lines.
11.2 A battle-line may only ever make one
attack and this must take place when the
line is first completed (as per 11.1
above). However, should a complete line,
for any reason, be made incomplete
(say, because of a Venomous Creep
13.3viii), and then it is completed a
second time, it may make another attack.
11.3 You find your Attack Value by totalling
all the Attack Ratings of the cards in your
attacking line, and your opponent finds
his by totalling all the Attack Ratings in
the line which you are going to attack.
You may add up the Attack Ratings of
all the other enemy battle-lines before
deciding whether or not to attack one.
11.4 If you complete a battle-line and do not
want to attack (or cannot because the
Attack Value of your newly completed
line is lower than those of all the other
players' incomplete battle- lines), then
the option to attack passes and you may
not attack with that line in a later turn
if you subsequently wish to do so. That
said, if you do not attack, your turn does
not end (see 11.7) and you may continue
drawing cards unless the card drawn
which completed your line was a
duplicate (see 10.2), in which case your
turn ends as usual.
11.5 If you decide to attack, you must roll the
Cube of Devastation to see if your battle-
line actually routs in panic instead of
carrying out the attack! If you roll the
Mark of Chaos, your attacking line routs
(see 12.0). If any Orcish Eye is rolled,
the attack is successful - see 11.6 below.
11.6 In the case of a successful attack you take
all the cards of the defeated incomplete
line from the loser's playsheet. Your
enemy's troops are killed; discard all the
Purple cards immediately (see 7.6 and
13.3v). All the loser's other cards are
taken and placed anywhere and in any
fashion (taking the rules from 8.0 and
9.0 into account), on your own playsheet
see 11.8. These are the spoils and
captives of tribal warfare. Odlugg
Spleenripper (13.3v) is never captured,
he is killed and discarded.
If you cannot, or do not want to place
all the captured cards on your playsheet,
the left over go onto the discard pile.
11.7 After a successful attack, your turn ends
and play passes to the player on your
left as usual.
11.8 If cards taken as a result of victory in
combat enable you to complete any other
battle-lines, your turn still ends and the
new lines never get to attack as per 11.7.
12.1 If, when you attack, you roll the Mark
of Chaos on the Cube of Devastation,
your battle-line, in typically Orcish
fashion, loses courage and routs in panic.
In such an event, you must immediately
discard all your Purple and Grey cards,
as your troops flee into the far distance
(see also 13.3vii). All the other cards
in your routed line are taken by the player
who you were going to attack before
routing. All the booty, war machines, and
even oddities like a confused Troll, get
left behind on the field of battle by your
panic-stricken troops, and are taken by the
enemy.
12.2 The captured cards are placed on the
attacked player' s playsheet in any
available spaces (taking 8.0 and 9.6 into
account). If he cannot or does not want
to place all the cards onto his playsheet,
any left overs go onto the discard pile.
12.3 After routing, the routed player's turn
ends and passes to the player on his left
as normal.
12.4 Should the attacked player use captured
items to complete any new battle-lines,
he may not then attack another player.
Indeed, his newly completed line never
gets to attack.
13.1 Many of the cards have special rules
which affect play in different ways. These
cards are discussed below in detail. The
Red card sets, in particular, will affect the
way in which players will place their
cards on the playsheet.
13.2 Blue Cards.
All these cards show items of value to
the Orcs. They do not affect play and are
merely placed in the line. At the end of
the game they are worth a fair number
of Victory Points - see 14.2.
13.3 Green Cards.
These cards are very special cards and
they affect play in different ways. Green
cards may not be played in the first round
of the game (see 7.7). Finally, once the
card's instructions have been followed,
your turn ends.
13.3i Bilge Guttrot
Taking a break from his usual rounds of
the army, this Orcish commander has
briefly joined your ranks and is using his
military expertise to "sort out" your
shabby battle-lines.
You may use Bilge to do one of two
things:
You may totally reorganize all of the
cards on your playsheet in absolutely any
way you want (though you must take
rules 8.0 and 9.0 into account). If you
complete any battle-lines through using
this card, you may not use them to attack
in this or any subsequent turn.
Or
you may use this battle-hardened Orc
to lead one of your incomplete battle-
lines into attack. If you choose this
option, you may still only attack an
incomplete enemy line with a lower
Attack Value (see note 11.1) - though you
may add two to your Attack Value for
having Guttrot on your side.
13.3ii Dagromm Flailbreath
This mighty Chaos leader sounds a call-
to-arms, ordering a re-deployment of
troops and equipment. There is a chance
that you could lose vital units from your
battle-lines, but you dare not disobey a
single command from this awesome
being.
To see if you do lose any cards, do the
following:
Roll the Cube of Devastation. If you roll
the Mark of Chaos, you lose every third
card from your battle-lines and stop
rolling. If you roll an Orcish Eye, you
don't lose any cards but you do have to
roll again.
If your second roll is the Mark of
Chaos, you lose every fourth card, but
if not, roll again.
If your third roll is the Mark of Chaos,
you lose every fifth card and so on.
You roll the Cube in this fashion until
you either have to lose cards, or until you
roll the Cube of Devastation four times
without rolling the Mark of Chaos once
ie after you have checked to see whether
or not you lose every sixth card.
If you make your four rolls without
losing any cards, your turn ends and this
card is discarded.
If you do lose cards, you start taking
them from the topmost left hand card of
your playsheet, counting along first the
top row, then the middle row and so on,
not counting the gaps between your
cards. You lose card from all lines, even
if they are complete. This done Dagromm
is discarded and your turn ends.
If you have less then three cards on
your playsheet when you draw this card,
then merely discard it. Your turn ends
without the loss of any cards.
13.3iii Horned Rat Standard
An incomplete line with this fear-
inspiring banner may never be attacked,
irrespective of any Attack Values etc.
If you complete a battle-line with this
card in it, then you may, of course, still
attack an enemy battle-line as usual.
Should your line rout, the Horned Rat
Standard will be captured by the enemy
as usual.
13.3iv Idol
When you draw this card you may either
place it in one of your battle-lines or in
a battle-line belonging to one of the other
players (see 8.5). At the end of the game,
there is a chance that the owner of the
Idol will have aroused the wrath of the
patron deity, Kygor Sydewynder.
The player holding the Idol should
make six rolls of the Cube of Devastation
when Victory Points are being awarded
14.2. If any of the rolls is the Mark of
Chaos, then the Idol is worth -90 (minus
90) Victory Points - which should be
subtracted from the player' s total,
possibly causing him to end the game
with a negative score!
If all six rolls come up with an Orcish
Eye, then the god is pleased and the idol
is worth 90 points, which are added to
the player's Victory Points total.
If, at the end of the game you have the
idol and a Shaman of Aaaaaaaag (the
latter can be anywhere on your
playsheet), then you do not have to make
a single roll. The idol, in this case is
automatically worth 90 points as the
Shaman, with his mystical training
knows how best to serve the god.
13.3v Odlugg Spleenripper
When this card is drawn, all players
should roll the Cube of Devastation. If
one of the players rolls the Mark of
Chaos, the stupid Troll joins his side.
That player takes the card and places it
on his playsheet as normal. The turn
ends for the player who actually drew
the card and passes to the player on his
left as normal.
If nobody, or more than one player rolls
the Mark of Chaos, the Troll gets con-
fused and walks off! Just discard it. The
turn ends for the player who drew the
card.
If you receive this card after rolling the
Mark of Chaos, you must immediately
make a Cube of Devastation roll for each
Blue card (booty) and each Sneaky Git
card on your playsheet. If you roll the
Mark of Chaos for any of them, the Troll
eats the card and the booty is
immediately discarded. Once all the cards
(if you have any booty) have been tested
in this way, play continues as normal.
That said, whenever you take a Blue card
from the draw pile, you must make a test
as outlined above. If you roll the Mark
of Chaos, the booty card is discarded,
but your turn continues. Also, if a player
wants to place a Sneaky Git (13.3vii) in
your ranks, you can again make a roll
to see if the Troll eats it. If he does, the
turn still ends for the player who tried
to give you the Sneaky Git.
Finally, the good thing about having
Odlugg in your battle line is that no other
line may attack it, under any conditions,
unless the attacking line contains at least
one of the following cards: Blightskabb
Plague Lords, Chaos Marauders, Claws
of Malal, Shaman of Aaaaaaaag, or a
complete War Machine. A line composed
solely of Orc fighters and Goblins will be
too scared to approach a line containing
such a menacing beast. Odlugg may be
destroyed by Skyrr's Blowback (13.3vi),
and is discarded should he be in a line
which is attacked and beaten (the only
Green card this happens to).
If you had cards on your playsheet, in the card in 4A, the topmost left hand
the boxes marked above (the numbers card): 7A, 5B, 9B and 6C.
and letters, which are not on the actual If you had to lose every fourth: 8A, 8B
playsheets, are shown here for and 6C.
convenience) and you had to lose every If every fifth card: 16A and 10B.
third card you would lose (starting from If every sixth card: 5B and 6C.
13.3vi Skyrr's Blowback
You may use this card once only to totally
obliterate any one enemy battle-line
(except one protected by the Horned Rat
Standard). Choose one battle-line,
complete or incomplete, on any enemy
playsheet and roll the Cube of
Devastation.
If an Orcish Eye is rolled, the
Firethrower does its job. The cards which
make up the target battle-line are all
destroyed. Remove all the cards from
your enemy's battle-line and discard
them along with this special card.
If you roll the Mark of Chaos, there
is a terrible (and typical) accident and
the weapon explodes, destroying
everything in close proximity to it. If it
does explode, take each and every card
off your playsheet and immediately
discard them!
13.3vii Sneaky Git
When you draw this card you can place
it in another player's battle-line (see 8.5)
where it stays (the other player, the
'victim', must accept it). After this, your
turn ends.
A player may have more than one
Sneaky Git in a battle-line. This is to say
that a player drawing one of these may
play it in another player's battle-line
where there is one already. This is an
exception to rule 9.6.
The Sneaky Git remains in the victim's
line until it is used. The game continues
as normal but when it is the victim's turn,
the player who played the card on him
(the 'owner') can force the victim to
discard absolutely any card which he has
just taken from the draw pile (but not one
already on the victim's playsheet). The
owner can force a discard after he has
seen what the victim intends to do with
a drawn card. The owner can force a
discard even if the drawn card were to
be placed on a battle-line other than the
one containing the Git card.
After a discard is forced, the Sneaky
Git is also removed from the victim's
playsheet and discarded (it can be used
once only), but the victim's turn ends.
If a player draws a Sneaky Git, he may
use it to assassinate one already in his
line. In this event both his and the other
player's Git cards are discarded together.
The player's turn then ends. Of course,
the player may choose not to assassinate,
and may decide to place his Git card in
another player's line as normal. A Git
may be used to force the victim to discard
his Git - which, in the end, works out
exactly the same as an assassination.
A Sneaky Git still counts towards
completion of a battle-line. Should,
somehow, the victim complete a line
containing the Git, he may still attack
with that line as normal. The owner may
still use the Git to force a discard in a later
turn, if he wishes, which will make the
line incomplete again (as the Git card is
discarded after use). If a Git is in a line
when the victim completes three battle-
lines, too late! The game still ends - see
14.1.
If a Sneaky Git is played on a player,
completing that player's battle-line, then
that line does not get to attack and never
will because it was not completed by that
player during his own turn. If a Sneaky
Git is played on a player, and in doing
so, it completes that player's third battle-
line, then the game immediately ends as
usual.
If a Sneaky Git is in an attacking line
which routs, the Git also routs and is
discarded - the only green card which
does so.
If a Git is in a battle-line which is
defeated in an attack, it must be taken
by the victor and placed on his own play-
sheet, if possible. Indeed, the Git must
be the first card to be placed. The original
owner of the Git is still the owner and
the winner of the attack is now the
victim, being subject to the threat of a
forced discard in place of the original
victim. If the owner of the Git happens
to be the winner of the attack, then the
Git is discarded.
To help you keep track of which player
owns which Sneaky Git card some
coloured control markers are included.
When a Sneaky Git is played, one of the
player's own markers should be placed
on top of it to serve as a reminder.
13.3viii Venomous Creep
You may use this card once only, before
discarding it. It enables you to take
absolutely any one card from another
player's playsheet, to place anywhere on
your own (taking 8.0 and 9.0 into
account). You may even steal the Horned
Rat Standard, or from a line protected
by it, and if you steal a Crew card, then
you are also entitled to any relevant
machine parts which players may have
(see 13.6v).
There is one exception to the freedom
of this card: you may not take a Purple
group card.
If nobody has any cards which you
want, or which you can take, then this
card is discarded (wasted). Whether you
use this card or not, your turn ends.
13.4 Grey Cards
These are lesser goblinoid units. They
are so puny as to have no Attack Rating,
and they are so useless that they are not
worth any Victory Points either. In fact,
there is nothing special at all about these
irritating, space consuming little morons
which is why they can be so much fun
... that is for the players watching their
enemy draw one from the deck.
In all fairness to the horrible runts,
though, the Hobgoblin Standards and
Musicians can be useful for completing
battle-lines - see 9.3.
13.5 Purple Cards
These cards are the regular troops which
form the bulk of your battle-lines.
Generally they are useful only in combat,
possessing only an Attack Rating. That
said, three of them are special:
13.5i Blightskabb Plague Lords
Alone, these cards are quite weak, but
together they are extremely powerful.
There are four of these cards in the pack
and, contrary to 9.6, you may have all
four on your playsheet. Indeed, you may
have more than one of them on the same
battle-line! When you draw a duplicate,
your turn still ends as normal (see 10.2),
but there are none of the usual rules
which restrict the actual placing of
duplicates. Rules on duplicate placing
aside, these Skaven are most useful in
battle.
If you have one of these on your sheet,
it has an Attack Rating of two; if you have
two of these, they both have an Attack
Rating of four; if you have three, they
all have a Rating of six; and if you have
all four, each one of them has an Attack
Rating of eight. To get the benefits of this
increase, you only need to have the cards
on your playsheet; they do not have to
be beside one another, or even on the
same battle-line. That said, if you ever
manage to get all four on the same line,
then, before you even start to look at the
Attack Ratings on any other cards in that
line, you know that the line already had
an Attack Value of thirty two!
13.5ii Bozlum Pigsticker.
As well as having an Attack Rating as
normal, this card also has another, more
useful application:
Immediately upon drawing the card
(unless for some reason, such as being
a fourth duplicate, it cannot be placed
on your playsheet), you can pick any
enemy Purple card and cause it to be
discarded (shot by archers). You may
even shoot a card in a line protected by
a Horned Rat Standard.
You may only use this special ability
once and, if there are no available targets
at the time of drawing this, it merely joins
your line and never gets to shoot. If you
draw a duplicate Pigsticker, you may use
it before your turn ends.
13.5iii Chaos Marauders
When you draw this card you simply
place it on your playsheet and carry on
taking cards as normal. If another player
spots it and calls aloud "Chaos
Marauders", then you must give the card
to that player. Your turn ends and after
the other player has placed the
Marauders card on his sheet as normal,
it is now his turn, irrespective of whose
turn it should be. Play then progresses
as normal but from the player who took
the Chaos Marauders card, and not from
the player who first drew it.
If more than one player calls out
"Chaos Marauders," then the card goes
to the player who called it first. If you
draw the card and finish your turn
without anybody else noticing that you
have it, then you may keep it. However,
a call may be made at any time until the
next player to go after you takes his first
card. Only when this happens should
you gleefully announce that you have the
Chaos Marauders card.
The benefits of having this card are
obvious. It has an astonishingly high
Attack Rating and is also worth Victory
Points at the game's end.
13.5iv Shaman of Aaaaaaaag
If you complete a line with a Shaman in
it, you may make two separate attacks,
with the same line, on enemy incomplete
lines. It does not matter which players
you attack. You may attack two different
lines belonging to the same player if you
wish, or one line from two different
players. Both attacks must be carried out
immediately, one after the other. If the
line routs whilst making its first attack,
it cannot then carry out its second.
You may not attack a line protected by
the Horned Rat Standard. Also, if you
have the Idol card elsewhere on your playsheet,
it is automatically worth 90 points (see 13.3iv).
13.6 Red Cards.
The Red cards come in five sets of three
and one set of two. When together the
sets form powerfully large engines of war
accompanied by the specialized crew
who know how to use and control them.
13.6i Each set is identified by its name. For
example, all three Bomber Set cards have
"Bomber" written on them.
13.6ii Each set is very valuable in two ways:
a complete set is worth Victory Points
and has an Attack Rating, but only if the
three cards are all together and in the
correct order. That is to say, that all three
cards must be put side by side so that
the picture is completed properly. Once
you lay out some of the machine cards
the correct way of arranging them will
become immediately obvious - the Crew
are always to the right of the two machine
halves.
13.6iii You may only use the Attack Rating of
the card, if you have a full and properly
assembled set. Just having the three
cards on different, separate parts of your
playsheet is not enough. A complete war-
machine has the Attack Rating printed
on each part of the machine and not the
sum of the Ratings shown on each card,
(eg the Smasher when complete, has an
Attack Rating of '10' and not ' 30' ). Also,
at the end of the game you score Victory
Points if you have the two machine parts
assembled in their proper order, and
more points still, if you have the Crew
as well. You score nothing for
mismatched or single cards.
13.6iv When drawing machine cards, then, you
should try to leave space on your
playsheet for the other cards of the same
set. This said, you do not have to collect
any set just because a part of it is on your
playsheet. Any card may be placed
beside a machine part, even if the
pictures are a blatant and odd looking
mismatch. The latter just means that you
do not receive the Attack Rating or any
Victory Points as per 13.6ii above.
13.6v Finally, war machines enjoy a special
privilege. Orcs can kill each other at any
old time of day but the menacing army
leaders will not tolerate either damaged
war machines or an injured Crew.
Although a war machine may be used
in the tribal punch-up, it may not itself
be attacked, though a line containing one
maybe attacked. If such aline is defeated
in combat, the machine is not destroyed,
it is captured by the enemy (see rule
11.6). Moreover, the Crew is fully in
charge of its machine and may take
possession of it at any time.
Therefore, if you draw a Crew card from
the deck, or receive a Crew card either
as a result of a successful attack (11.6),
enemy routed attack (rule 12.2) or play
of a Venomous Creep (see 13.3 viii), then
you may take machine cards of the same
set from the playsheets of any other
player/s if there are any to take and place
them on your own - even if for lack of
space, you cannot place the set together.
In fact, you may even discard cards
which you cannot place (though you
must place them if you can).
You may even take cards in this way
from a battle-line protected by a Horned
Rat Standard (see 13.3iii), or from a
complete battle-line.
If, however, you draw a Crew card and
find that you already have part of the
same set but in a position where the Crew
may not be placed beside it (because of,
say, other cards being in the way), you
may not move that machine card so that
it can be beside the Crew or any other
machine parts which you may have. This
would break rule 8.3.
Having a Crew does not entitle you to
take any other parts of the machine
which are taken by players from the Draw
Pile (or each other) later in the game. You
may only take any cards, the moment
you receive the Crew card.
13.6vi Boneshaker.
All the rules stated above apply equally
to the Boneshaker set, only this set is
different in that it is only a two card set
and so only the two halves need to be
assembled before you receive its Attack
Rating and Victory Points. As half of the
set is a Crew, then all the normal Crew
rules apply, see 13.6v.
14.1 The game ends immediately upon a
player completing his third battle-line.
As soon as the final card is placed the
game is over and the newly completed
line does not get to attack as is usual
according to 11.1. If, somehow, all the
cards are used up without either player
assembling his three lines, then the game
ends anyway. In either event, Victory
Points are then calculated for each player
to determine the winner.
14.2 Many of the cards are worth Victory
Points and these points are indicated on
the cards themselves. However, you also
score Victory Points for other reasons
such as assembling long battle-lines. All
these things, card scores included, can
be found on the table below. At the end
of the game, use this chart to find each
player's Victory Points total. The player
with the highest number is the winner.
POINTS CHART
First player to complete three lines. . . . .150
Each line completed with 5-7 Cards. . . . . . 50
Each line completed with 8-10 Cards. . . .100
Each line completed with 11-13 Cards. . .150
Each line completed with 14-16 Cards. .200
Each card on the playing sheet 10
Each red set of three * 70
Each red set of two ** 60
Chaos Marauders 10
Garok Varokroksenrok 100
Idol 90
Monggo's Meat Grinders 80
Shotti 110
Spittledung XXXXX 50
Spoil Heap 40
* Points are awarded if the three card set is
assembled properly, with the two machine halves
and the crew all together. For the Boneshaker
set, you only need to have the two machine
halves put together before you can score a full
70 points.
** Points are awarded if you have the two
machine halves put together but without the
crew.
14.3 An Example of Scoring.
If you ended the game with the layout
below (use the key to see which letters
are supposed to be which card. In fact,
it would be a good idea if you set up this
example on a playsheet so that you can
have a better view of how it all works),
you would be awarded the following:
For the top line you would score 200
for completing a 15 card line; 40 for the
Spoil Heap; 50 for the Spittledung
XXXXX; and 70 for the complete
Smasher set, making a total of 360
points for the top line.
The middle line is worth only 110 for
the Shotti and the bottom line is worth
only 50 for being a complete line of five
cards in length.
Finally, as each card is worth 10 points
just for being on the playsheet, you
would receive another 240 points,
making a grand total of 760 for the entire
sheet.
YOU'VE READ THE RULES NOW, SO
ATTACK, ATTACK, ATTACK! THE HONOUR
OF YOUR 'ORRIBLE, MOULDY TRIBE IS AT
STAKE! Not to mention the barrels of Orc
swig, piles of loot, and a new bunch of torture
victims...
A = Orc Regimental Standard M = Crummy Snotling Slaves
B = Hak Veinthrob's Volunteers N = Grivziz Dirtballs
C = Spattznatt's Suicide Squad O = Hobgoblin Musician
D = Shaman of Aaaaaaaag P = Hobgoblin Standard
E = Bozlum Pigsticker Q = Bomber Crew
F = Spoil Heap R = Crummy Snotling Slaves
G = Spittledung XXXXX S = Shotti
H = Smasher (left half) T = Orc Regimental Standard
I = Smasher (right half) U = Crummy Snotling Slave
J = Smasher Crew V = Bomber (left half)
K = Bomber (right half) W = Odlugg Spleenripper
L = Claws of Malal X = Regimental Orc Musician