FABRIC GEOMETRY

Configuration of fabric and orientation of yarns, so called fabric Geometry , play vital role
to simulate fabric behavior under shear defomarmation. However determination of fabric
geometry needs special equipment and the process is time consuming. The attempt of this
invistegation is to estibilish a model to simulate change in fabric geometry and yarn
deformation during shear deformation . Geometrical characteristics are the nature of the basic
reinforcing unit in the fabric (yarn) and the various geometries by which these yarns are
combined together in the fabric (weft insertion warp knitted, short weft warp knitted, and woven
fabrics). It was found that the geometry of a given fabric could enhance the bonding and enable
one to obtain strain hardening behavior from low modulus yarn fabrics. On the other hand,
variations of the geometry in a fabric could drastically reduce the efficiency, resulting in a
reduced strengthening effect of the yarns in the fabric relative to single yarns not in a fabric
form. The improved bonding in low modulus yarn was found to be mainly the result of the
special shape of the yarn induced by the fabric. Therefore, in cement composites, the fabrics
cannot be viewed simply as a means for holding together continuous yarns so that they can be
readily placed in the matrix

The objectives of fabric geometry :
1. Prediction of the maximum sett (density) of fabric and fabric dimensions;
2. Find out relationship between geometrical parameters (picks and ends);
3. Prediction of mechanical properties by combining fabric and yarn properties;
4. Understanding fabric performance (handle and surface effect).
Geometry Theories Approach
1. In conventional approaches, the general character of fabrics was idealized into simple
geometrical forms (circle, ellipse, rectangle)
2. They treated the micro-mechanics of fabrics on the basis of the unit-cell approach, ie fabrics are
considered as a repeating network of identical unit cells in the form of crimp weaves and
constant yarn cross-section in the woven structure.
3. By combining this kind of geometry with or without physical parameters (material),
mathematical deductions could be obtained.

Fabric Geometry Models :
By using circle, ellipse, rack-track approaches, four fabric geometrical models are formed
1. Pierce model
2. Modified model (ellipse)
3. Kemps race track model (rectangle & circle)
4. Hearles lenticular model

Mathematical Notation for each model





Pierces Model (Classical Model)
In this model, a two-dimensional unit cell of fabric was built by superimposing linear and circular
yarn segments to produce the desired shaped.
The yarns were assumed to be circular in cross-section and highly incompressible, but perfectly
flexible so that each set of yarns had a uniform curvature imposed by the circular cross-sectional
shape of interlacing yarns.
Geometrical parameters such as thread spacing (p), weave crimp, weave angle and fabric
thickness (h) can be found.


Pierces Model Results

Pick spacing (p1) and end spacing (p2), warp thickness (h1), weft thickness (h2) can be found from this
model
Pierces Model Limitations
This model is convenient for calculation and is valid for open structure (loose density)
However, the assumptions of circular cross-section, uniform structure along the longitudinal
direction, perfect flexibility and incompressibility are all unrealistic.
Pierces Elliptic Model
In more tightly woven fabrics, however, the inter-thread pressures setup during weaving cause
considerable thread flattening normal to the plane of cloth.
Pierce recongized this and proposed an elliptic section theory as shown in Fig 3.2
Because such model would be too complex and laborious in operation, he adopted an
approximate treatment, which involved merely replacing the circular thread diameter in his
circular-thread geometry with minor diameter as shown in Fig 3.2
This modified model is good for reasonable open fabric but cannot be applied for very closed
jammed fabric.


Kemp Model (Race-track section) :
To overcome the jammed structure, Kemp proposed a racetrack section to modified cross-
section shape.
The model consisted of a rectangle enclosed by two semi-circular ends and had the advantage
that it allowed the relatively simple relations of circular-thread geometry, already worked out by
Pierce, to be applied to a flatted threads.

Fig : A rectangle and semi-circular cross section of Kemp Model
Kemp Model Results :

Hearles Model
Using energy method for calculations in fabric mechanics, a lenticular geometry was proposed
by Hearle as shown in Fig 3.5

Fig : Energy approach for Hearles model
Hearles Model Results


Limitations Fabric Geometry Models
1. Firstly, fabrics are complicated materials that do not conform even approximately to any of the
ideal features suggested by these four fabric models.
2. Secondly, the measurement of geometrical parameters is not easy in practice.
3. Thirdly, the relationship between fabric mechanic (tensile, elongation, bending) to fabric
geometry is not fully explored.
References
Structure and mechanics of woven fabrics by Jinlan HU
Chapter 3 Structural properties of fabric pp61-89