Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Sweater Knits 4 November 2009 SWEATER KNITS INTRODUCTION:
The Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Construction Guidelines represent the base standards for garment construction methods, terminology and components. These guidelines provide a common approach to achieve consistent construction and superlative quality for all AnnTaylor , Loft and Ann Taylor Factory Stores apparel products. The guidelines are a resource to establish requirements for styling, garment construction and component parts.
NOTE: See Garment Specification Package for style specific construction and components.
CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS:
SHADES: All shades are to be individually labeled.
PLAIDS & STRIPES (Vertical and Horizontal): Plaid is to match around garment. Horizontal stripes are to match around garment. Pockets & Flaps to match vertical and horizontal pattern (unless otherwise specified in Spec Package). Left and right of garments are to have balanced placement. Style specific plaid & stripe placement requirements are to be reviewed and documented on Development Spec Package. NOTE: Placement is to be confirmed prior to fit approval and documented in Production Spec Package. All knitting width limitations are to be advised and confirmed prior to Fit Approval.
STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS FOR SWEATERS: Linking Yarn: Self yarn or dyed-to-match yarn. Fashioned Seams (unless otherwise indicated): Armhole Side Seams Sleeve Cap Underarm Cardigan Front Edge Shoulder Neckline to be clean finished (Full-fashioned or linked trim). Knit Trims: Made of self yarn unless otherwise specified in Spec Pkg. Linked to body unless otherwise specified. Floats: Floats are to be knitted in a vertical position to avoid possible pulling or breaking, when feasible.
STITCH TENSION & HANDFEEL: Count Stitches per Inch. Stitch Tension approved per Spec Pkg. Handfeel approved per Spec Pkg. Handfeel must be consistent within a specific color range. Handfeel may differ from light to dark.
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Sweater Knits 5 November 2009 SEAMING FOR SWEATERS:
LINKED SEAMS:
Stitches per Inch (SPI) base on yarn type, stitch type and tension. Fashioned seams are to be linked unless otherwise indicated. Shoulder Side Seam Under arm Armhole Neckline Seam / Trim Setting Front & Sleeve Hem Edge Trim (style specific)
Stitches per Inch (SPI) base on yarn type, stitch type and tension.
Shoulder Seam: Set Stay Tape to Front Shoulder w/ Chainstitch. Quality as per Spec Pkg. Length of Stay Tape must accommodate Shoulder Width spec. Shoulder seams must not draw in or dimple. Clean finish raw edge w/ 3-Thread Overedge. Link seam w/ Chainstitch (see above sketch). Topside Underside ST-504 3-Thread Overedge
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Sweater Knits 6 November 2009 SIDE SEAM OPTIONS: NOTE: Seam can be with or without visible Fashion marks. See Spec Pkg.
Shaped Chest to Sweep Shaped Chest to Waist, Straight from Waist) S i d e
s e a m Front A r m h o l e BottomOpening Front View Knit Straight Knit Straight BottomOpening S i d e
s e a m A r m h o l e Back View Back SeeSpec Pkg S1-a Side Shaped from Chest to Sweep SeeSpec Pkg
Side seam Front Back Sideseam A r m h o l e Top SideView aboveWaist Knit Straight SeeSpec Pkg Knit Straight (SeeSpec Pkg) S i d e
s e a m Front A r m h o l e BottomOpening Front View Knit Straight Knit Straight S i d e
s e a m A r m h o l e Back View Back SeeSpec Pkg Waist S1-b Side Shaped from Chest to Waist; Straight to Sweep BottomOpening A r m h o l e Knit Straight Knit Straight Sideseam SeeSpecPkg Waist S1-b Side Shape; Straight from Waist Knit Straight (SeeSpecPkg)
Side Shaped at Ribs set away from Side Seam A r m h o l e S i d e s e a m Back BottomOpening BottomOpening A r m h o l e Front S i d e s e a m S1-c Side Shaped at Ribs (away from Side Seam) *SeeSpec Pkgfor #of Ribsfrom Seamto Fashioning Stitches Front A r m h o l e A r m h o l e Back Top Side View above Waist Sideseam Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Sweater Knits 7 November 2009 FASHIONED ARMHOLE / SLEEVE CAP & RAGLAN SLEEVE:
NOTE: Seam can be with or without visible Fashion marks. See Spec Pkg. * Shaped Armhole * Full Fashioned * See Spec Pkg for "Fashion Mark" spacing from seam Knit Straight for 1/2" (Unless specified otherwise in See Spec Pkg. S2-1c Fully Fashioned Armhole at base of Curve
Knit Straight 1/2" (Unless specified otherwise in Spec Pkg) S2-1f Fully Fashioned Sleeve at base of Armhole Curve - * Full Fashioned * See Spec Pkg for "Fashion Mark" spacing from seam
Knit Straight 3" at Top of Cap S2-1g Fully Fashioned Sleeve at Top of Cap * Shape Cap * Full Fashioned * See Spec Pkg for "Fashion Mark" spacing from seam (unless specified otherwise in Spec Pkg)
S2-1h Fully Fashioned Raglan Sleeve * Full Fashioned * See Spec Pkg for "Fashion Mark" spacing fromseam Front Back Neck Natural Shoulder Knit Straight for 1/2" (Unless specified otherwise in SeeSpec Pkg.)
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Sweater Knits 8 November 2009 CAMISOLE
Full Needle Armhole Trim / Strap: * See Spec Pkg for #of Ribs from seamto Fashioning stitches S2-2 Camisole Fully Fashioned Armhole w/ Full Needle Rib Strap Full Needle Rib Strap Sideseam Inside of Garment Armhole / Side Seam Pt. Full Needle Rib Armhole / Strap S2-2 Camisole Fully Fashioned Armhole w/ Full Needle Rib Strap
Tubular Armhole Trim / Strap: S2-3 Camisole Tubular Armhole / Strap Tubular Armhole/Strap Tubular Finish Linking Stitch Sideseam Inside of Garment Tubular Armhole/Strap Knit Straight (See Spec Pkg) Linking Stitch S2-3 Camisole Tubular Armhole / Strap Side View Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Sweater Knits 9 November 2009 BOTTOM & SLEEVE OPENING FINISHES:
S3-5a "Faux" Envelope Shoulder/ Neck Trimlinked to Body along Front & Back Neckline Linked along Front Shoulder Front Back S3-5b "Overlap" Envelope Shoulder/ Neck Trimlinked to Body along Front & Back Neckline * Back Overlaps Front. * SeeSpec Pkg for Overlap requirement. Front Back
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Sweater Knits 11 November 2009 NECKLINE OPTIONS (continued): All Collars to be set with Tubular Jersey unless otherwise indicated. Minimum Neck Circumference 24" / 25" unless otherwise indicated in Spec Pkg.
Turtleneck w/ 1 seam @ Back Neck Seam at Wearer's Left Back Shoulder S4-1 Turtle Neck w/ 1 Seam at Back Neck Reverse seam 2" above Neck Seam Collar Unrolled
Back Seam S4-1 Turtle Neck w/ 1 Seam at Back Neck
Turtleneck w/ 2 Seams @ Back Neck Back S4-2a Turtle Neck w/ 2 Seams at Back Neck Seams Reverse Seam 2" above Neck Seam Unrolled
S4-2a Turtle Neck w/ 2 Seams at Back Neck Back Seams
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Sweater Knits 12 November 2009 NECKLINE OPTIONS (continued):
Shaped Turtleneck w/ 2 seams @ Back Neck Back S4-2b Shaped Turtle Neck w/ 2 Seams at Back Neck Seams Reverse Seam 2" above Neck Seam Unrolled
Back Seams S4-2b Shaped Turtle Neck w/ 2 Seams at Back Neck
Cowl Turtleneck w/ 2 Seams @ Back Neck Back S4-2c Cowl Turtle Neck w/ 2 Seams at Back Neck Seams Reversed Seam Unrolled
Back Seams S4-2c Cowl Turtle Neck w/ 2 Seams at Back Neck
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Sweater Knits 13 November 2009 NECKLINE OPTIONS (continued):
Funnel Neck (Collar Fashioned Continuous from Body)
S4-3 Funnel Neck Front Front Collar knit continuous from Body Full Fashioning & Linked at seam S4-3 Funnel Neck Full Fashioning & Linked at seam Back Collar knit continuous from Body Back Collar Seam continuous from Shoulder Seam
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Sweater Knits 14 November 2009 WRAP FRONTS:
Wrap Attached at Side Seam Overlap Partial Wrap Top Layer: *Full Fashioned finished edge *Linked at wearer's left sideseam *Full Fashioned finished edge *Linked at wearer's right sideseam Under Layer: S8-5 Wrap attached at side seam Overlap *See Spec Pkg S8-6 V-Overlap; Partial Wrap Bodice set Tubular linked seam
Faux Wrap *Wearer's Left edge Full Fashioned fnish *Tubular overlaps left Front edge S8-7 Faux Wrap *J oin Right & Left at Tubular linking seam
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Sweater Knits 15 November 2009 FRONT CLOSURES:
Plackets: Tubular Full Needle Strapping Full Needle Continuous Frt Edge Hidden Placket
S5-1a Tubular Front Edge Finish Linked to Body Tubular w/ Knitted in Folding Row (Same Top & Under Plkt) NOTE: See Spec Pkg for Neckline & BottomOpening Finish
Self Start Tighter Tension BottomOpening LinkedtoBody FNR Strapping LinkedontoBody (SameTop & Under Plkt) S5-2a Full Needle Rib Strapping Front Edge Finish NOTE: SeeSpec Pkgfor Neck Finish
Self Start Tighter Tension BottomOpening FNR Continuous Placket Self Knit in (SameTop & Under Plkt) S5-3 Full Needle Rib Continuous to Front Edge NOTE: SeeSpec Pkg for NecklineFinish
Self Start Tighter Tension BottomOpening FNR Concealed Placket Self Knit in FNR Linked onto Body Tacked FNR Linked onto Body S5-4a Full Needle Rib Hidden Placket NOTE: See Spec Pkg for Neckline Finish
Kissing Front Edge w/ Tubular Finish S5-5a Kissing Front; Tubular Finish NOTE: See Spec Pkg for BottomFinish Tubular Trim Linked to Body BottomOpening Kissing Front Tubular w/ Folding Row Kissing Front Tubular w/ Folding Row Tubular Trim Linked to Body S5-5b Kissing Front; Tubular Finish w/ Crew Neck NOTE: See Spec Pkg for Closure
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Sweater Knits 16 November 2009 FRONT CLOSURES (continued):
Kissing Front Edge w/ Tubular Finish & Zipper Closure Kissing Front Tubular w/ Folding Row Tubular Trim Linked to Body S5-5c Kissing Front; Tubular Finish w/ Collar & Zipper S5-5d Kissing Front; Tubular Finish Zipper Setting Tubular Linked to Body Folding Row at Edge CF w/ Zipper Closure
FULL NEEDLE RIB FACING FINISH & JERSEY ROLL EDGE FINISH:
Full Needle Rib Strapping / Facing FNR Strapping / Facing w/ Zipper Jersey Roll Edge Finish Full Needle Rib Strapping S5-6a Full Needle Rib Strapping / Facing
Inside of Garment CF * Link to body at bottomfinish * See Spec Pkg for BottomHt Full NeedleRib Strapping S5-6b Full Needle Rib Strapping / Facing w/ Zipper Inside of Garment CF * Link to body at bottomfinish * SeeSpec Pkg for BottomHt S5-7 Jersey Roll Edge Finish J ersey Roll Roll up Full Needle Full Needle J ersey Roll Roll under
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Sweater Knits 17 November 2009 POCKET OPTIONS:
Link all pockets: Use self yarn unless specified otherwise. Pocket Bag Terms: Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag. Pocket Bag for heavy gauge knits: Use Jersey stitch to reduce bulk, unless specified otherwise.
Welt Pockets: S6-1a Welt - Full Needle Rib [FNR] (set Paralled to Welt seam) S6-1b Welt - Rib (right angle to Welt seam) See Spec Pkg for Rib Type (1 x 1, 2 x 2) Patch Pockets: S6-2a Patch Pocket Pocket Opening Finish See Spec Pkg Linked to Body
S6-2b Patch Pocket Linked to Body Linked to Body Pocket OpeningFinish SeeSpec Pkg S6-2c Full Fashioned Patch Pocket Full Fashioned *See Spec Pkg for "Fashion Mark" Spacing fromseam Linked to Body Linked to Body Pocket Opening
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Sweater Knits 18 November 2009 LOOP CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS:
Crochet Belt Loops Hanger Loops A12-4c Crochet Belt Loop/ Tear Drop
A12-4d Crochet Belt OpenLoop (set in Seam) S8-4 Hanger Loop at Side Seam Linked Side Seam Inside of Garment *See Spec Pkg for Placement S8-4 Hanger Loop at Side Seam SideSeam Stitch Tack *SeeSpec Pkg for Placement STANDARD BUTTON SETTING: Thread Shank w/ Wrap S8-3a Button Setting - Parallel Stitch * Parallel Stitch * Set Button w/ lockstitch machine w/ Functional Buttonholes w/ Functional Buttonholes S8-3b Button Setting - "X" Stitch * "X" Stitch * Set Button w/ lockstitch machine Thread Shank w/ Wrap Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Sweater Knits 19 November 2009 OTHER CLOSURES: Loop & Frog Closures A10-6a Crochet Button Loop - Kissing Setting
A10-6b Crochet Button Loop - Open Setting
A10-7a Button Loop - Kissing Setting
A10-7b Button Loop - Open Setting
A10-7c Button Loop - Closed Setting
Top Side Under side of Loop A10-8 Folder Button Loop
A10-9 Decorative / Frog Closure
Hook & Eye Closures A11-1a Hook & Loop Eye
A11-1b Hook & Straight Eye A11-1c Hook & Loop
Hook & Loop Eye Setting Hook & Thread Loop Setting A11-1 Setting Hook Tack under base of Hook & Loop Eye A11-1 Setting Hook Tack under base of Hook & Thread Loop Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Sweater Knits 20 November 2009 DECORATIVE EMBELLISHMENT SETTING
HANDTACKING
Step 1 To form initial knot the thread must passes through self fabric or yarn
Step 2 Circle the needle 2 times, then pull out the needle to form initial knot.
Step 3 Initial knot formed must be tied to the fabric or yarn Tail extending from knot must be trimmed to .
Step 4 Affix the embellishment to the body using same needle from initial knot on self fabric.
Step 5 Affix the embellishment by using 2 plies of thread with 2 passes through the fabric. Do not make the length of the passes more than long.
Step 6 After affixing the embellishment on the face side, pass the needle through to the inside for ending knot finishing in the same manner as step 1 and step 2. MACHINE TACKING 1. If factory has adjusted the normal buttonhole machine into 2 hole stitching for tacking purposes, only lockstitch buttonhole machine can be used for Ann Taylor product. 2. If factory uses single lockstitch machine for tacking purposes appropriate and sufficient back stitches must be applied to secure 3. Bar tacking machine application is limited to heavier fabric. Please advise when using this application to Technical Designer or QA for approval.
BEAD AND SEQUIN CONSTRUCTION HAND TACKING 1. Initial knot must be tied up to fabric or yarn in designated position following design layout 2. At least 2 plies of thread with 2 pass of needle must be passed through the fabric or yarn for each tack point. 3. Ending knot must be added to secure each tacked position. 4. Floating thread in between in between tacking cannot exceed on wrong side of the fabric. Floating thread longer than is not acceptable. 5. For beading spacing longer than or all over beading, beading should be tacked separately to secure beads. Initial Knot Self Fabric Initial Knot Rosette/embellishment Initial Knot Ending Knot Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Sweater Knits 21 November 2009 ZIPPER SETTING: NOTE: See Specification package for Right for Left Zipper Pull. Zipper illustrations are generic. (A) Closed end - Normal type (C) 2 Pulls - 2 Ended Closed (B) 2 - Ended Closed (D) 2 Pulls - 2 Open Ends (D) 1 Pull Open End Common Zipper Types (A) Closed end - Invisible type Sealed End Sealed at Top
Tape Width Chain Width Length of Fastener Zipper Dimension Terms
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Sweater Knits 22 November 2009 STANDARD LINING REQUIREMENTS: Pattern Requirements Lining pattern pieces each 1/8 larger than shell.
Lining Attachment to Shell:
Front Lining Back Lining Inside Garment 1/2" Curtain Pleat Close Lining at wearer's Left Sleeve S5-8a Lining Finishing w/ 1-Piece Sleeve Hand Baste Hem Hand Baste Hem Hand Baste Hem Hand Baste Lining to Shell along Neckline and Front Edge
Pleat opening 1 1/2" down from Neck seam Taper pleat to 0" at waist Knife Pleat 3/4" deep Press to wearer's right Seam CB Seam S5-8b Lining CB Seam Pleat - No Back Neck Facing CB Seam
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Sweater Knits 23 November 2009 SWEATER TERMS:
Floats: A portion of warp or filling yarn that extends (floats) over one or more adjacent end(s) to form knitted design.
Gauge: The distance between knitting needles related to the number of wales per inch on a knitted fabric.
Interlock stitch: A fabric where the long & short needles are directly aligned one behind the other, thus forming a pattern where the face & back of fabric are almost identical. Fabric will have a slight 1x1 rib appearance.
Jacquard: A versatile knitting mechanism that allows intricate pattern works to be achieved by using a series of punched cards fed into the machine. Each of these cards is punched in a manner to achieve a portion of the total patterns design. The face and back of the fabric will appear different depending on the pattern selected.
Jersey stitch: A circular knit or flat knit fabric made with a plain stitch which knitting loops intermesh in only one direction. As a result the appearance of the face of the fabric is different than the back.
Rib: A double knit fabric where the vertical rows of stitches intermesh alternately on the face and back of the fabric. Odd vertical rows on one side of the fabric intermesh with the even rows on the other side of fabric.
Tension: A term used to determine the density of a stitch. Or how compact the rows of knitting are in a garment either relaxed or stretched to maximum width. To verify knitting tension, please refer to minimum construction section of this manual.
Theory of Silk Weaving
A Treatise on the Construction and Application of Weaves, and the Decomposition and Calculation of Broad and Narrow, Plain, Novelty and Jacquard Silk Fabrics