Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 2 November 2009
TABLE of CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION: ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 5 CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS: ............................................................................................................................................... 5 STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS CUT & SEW KNITS: ............................................................................................................................. 5 STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES - CUT & SEW KNITS: ......................................................................................................... 6 Join Seams .............................................................................................................................................................................................. 6 Shoulder Seam ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 6 Armhole ................................................................................................................................................................................................... 6 Edge Seams: ........................................................................................................................................................................................... 6 EDGE FINISHES: ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 7 Binding Full Clean Finish ....................................................................................................................................................................... 7 Binding Half Clean Finish ...................................................................................................................................................................... 7 Elastic Encased in Trim ........................................................................................................................................................................... 7 Clean Finish Edge w/ Lining Full Double Bendback ............................................................................................................................ 7 Piped Edge Binding Facing Single Bendback .................................................................................................................................. 7 DARTS: ....................................................................................................................................................................................................... 8 NECK FINISHES: ......................................................................................................................................................................................... 9 Neck Finished w/ Binding ........................................................................................................................................................................ 9 Set-In Neck Trim Left Back Join Seam ................................................................................................................................................. 9 Set-In Neck Trim Center Back Join Seam ............................................................................................................................................. 9 Set-In Trim / Border with Facing ............................................................................................................................................................ 10 V Neck with Set-In Trim Mitered Center Front ............................................................................................................................... 10 V Neck with Set-In Trim Stitch-Tack at Center Front ...................................................................................................................... 10 Low V Neck Trim Overlapped at Center Front ................................................................................................................................ 11 High V Neck Trim Overlapped at Center Front ............................................................................................................................... 11 V Neck with Set-In Trim & Elasticized Center Front .......................................................................................................................... 11 Keyhole at CF w/ Drawstring through Casing Keyhole at CF w/ Binding Trim & Tie ...................................................................... 12 Lace Neck Trim Appliqud to Shell........................................................................................................................................................ 12 Notch Collar with Facing ....................................................................................................................................................................... 13 Notch Collar with Partial Placket & Facing ............................................................................................................................................. 13 COLLAR OPTIONS: .................................................................................................................................................................................. 14 2-Piece Collar ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 14 Shirt Collar w/ Full Stand ....................................................................................................................................................................... 14 Stand Collar ........................................................................................................................................................................................... 15 Collar w/ Banana Stand ......................................................................................................................................................................... 15 FRONT PLACKET CLOSURES: ................................................................................................................................................................. 16 Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 3 November 2009 KEYHOLE CLOSURES: ............................................................................................................................................................................. 18 Keyhole Lined to Edge Keyhole w/ Continuous Lapped Placket ........................................................................................................ 18 Keyhole Clean Finish w/ Facing ............................................................................................................................................................. 18 FACING OPTIONS: ................................................................................................................................................................................... 19 Attached Facings ................................................................................................................................................................................... 19 Bendback Facings ................................................................................................................................................................................. 20 Combination Facing Set-In Trim .................................................................................................................................................. 21 HEM FINISH OPTIONS: ............................................................................................................................................................................ 22 SLIT OPTIONS .......................................................................................................................................................................................... 23 Clean Finish at Seam; Blindstitched ...................................................................................................................................................... 23 Full Bendback w/Topstitch .................................................................................................................................................................... 23 Bendback & Topstitched ....................................................................................................................................................................... 23 Bendback Facing w/ Mitered Corner - Blindstitched ............................................................................................................................. 24 Bendback Facing w/ Mitered Corner - Topstitched ............................................................................................................................... 24 Attached Facing w/ Overedge Finish - Blindstitched ............................................................................................................................. 25 Attached Facing with Overedge Finish - Topstitched ............................................................................................................................ 25 WELT & BESOM POCKETS ...................................................................................................................................................................... 26 Angled Welt Pocket Horizontal Welt Pocket ............................................................................................................................... 26 Angled Besom Pocket Horizontal Besom Pocket ........................................................................................................................ 26 VERTICAL / ANGLED WELT OR BESOM POCKET: ................................................................................................................................. 27 WELT & BESOM POCKETS W/ FLAP:...................................................................................................................................................... 28 PATCH POCKETS: .................................................................................................................................................................................... 28 VERTICAL ONSEAM POCKET: ............................................................................................................................................................. 29 PLEATS: .................................................................................................................................................................................................... 30 Inverted Pleat ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 30 Box Pleat ............................................................................................................................................................................................... 30 Inverted Pleat / Box Pleat Tacked for Shipping: .................................................................................................................................... 30 Pintuck .................................................................................................................................................................................................. 30 Knife / Single Side Pleat ........................................................................................................................................................................ 30 TOPSTITCH OPTIONS - CUT & SEW KNITS: ............................................................................................................................................ 31 Single Chainstitch 2-Needle Bottom Coverstitch ............................................................................................................................... 31 Split Needle w/ 2-Needle Bottom Coverstitch ....................................................................................................................................... 31 Top & Bottom Coverstitch Options ....................................................................................................................................................... 31 DRAWSTRING CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS: ............................................................................................................................................ 32 ZIPPER CLOSURES CLOSED BOTTOM: ............................................................................................................................................... 34 FLY CLOSURES: ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 35 Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, with Waistband:............................................................................................................................ 35 Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, without Waistband ....................................................................................................................... 35 Fly Closure: 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension; Clean Finish at bottom...................................................................................................... 36 ZIPPER CLOSURES SEPARATING ZIPPER: ........................................................................................................................................... 37 Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 4 November 2009 ZIPPER TERMS: ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 38 ZIPPER WITH BINDING EDGE FINISH: .................................................................................................................................................... 39 Front Closure Button Setting: ................................................................................................................................................................ 39 CLOSURES: .............................................................................................................................................................................................. 40 Buttonholes: .......................................................................................................................................................................................... 40 Loop & Frog Closures ............................................................................................................................................................................ 41 Thread Eyelet ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 41 Hook & Loop Eye Setting inside top edge .................................................................................................................................... 42 Hook & Loop Eye Setting - inside/top of zipper ............................................................................................................................... 42 Hook & Bar; Hook & Loop Tape: ........................................................................................................................................................... 42 DECORATIVE EMBELLISHMENT SETTING ............................................................................................................................................. 43 BELT LOOPS: ........................................................................................................................................................................................... 44 SPECIAL CONSTRUCTIONS: .................................................................................................................................................................... 45 Adjustable Strap ................................................................................................................................................................................ 45 Strap Continuous from Armhole ............................................................................................................................................................ 45 Camisole / Strapless w/ Bra Shelf ......................................................................................................................................................... 46 DECORATIVE STITCHES: ......................................................................................................................................................................... 47 Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 5 November 2009 CUT & SEW KNITS INTRODUCTION: The Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Construction Guidelines represent the base standards for garment construction methods, terminology and components. These guidelines provide a common approach to achieve consistent construction and superlative quality for all Ann Taylor, Ann Taylor Loft and Ann Taylor Factory Stores apparel products. The guidelines are a resource to establish requirements for styling, garment construction and component parts.
NOTE: See Garment Specification Package for style specific construction and components.
CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS:
SHADES: All shades are to be individually labeled.
PLAIDS & STRIPES (Vertical and Horizontal): Plaid is to match around garment. Horizontal stripes are to match around garment (unless confirmed otherwise prior to Fit Approval. Confirmation must be documented in Spec Pkg.) Sleeve is to match front at pitch point. Top Collar Center Back to match body on vertical pattern. Front Pockets & Flaps to match vertical and horizontal pattern (unless otherwise specified in Spec Package). Left and right of garments are to have balanced placement. One-way fabrics are to be cut in same direction unless otherwise specified to be A/B marker. Style specific plaid & stripe placement requirements are to be reviewed and documented on Development Spec Package. NOTE: Placement is to be confirmed prior to fit approval and documented in Production Spec Package. Circular Knits: Position fabric crease lines on back body or back sleeve.
STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS CUT & SEW KNITS: Interfacing: Quality and weight must be compatible with fabric. Interfacings are to be tested for all fabrications to verify compatibility and performance. Stitches per Inch (SPI): Shell: 10-12 SPI Topstitching: 10-12 (unless special thread & SPI required per Spec Pkg.)
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 6 November 2009 STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES - CUT & SEW KNITS:
Join Seams Shoulder Seam A-10 4-Thread Overedge Stitch Under Side Stitch Top Side Press to One Side Edge Seam Seam Seam Details 3/16 seam allowance
4-Thread Overedge
Press toward back
See Spec pkg. for Panel seam requirement
K1-1 Shoulder Seam Stay Tape at Shoulder * Back Shoulder unless otherwise specified
Seam Details 3/16 to seam allowance
4-Thread Overedge
Press toward back
Armhole Edge Seams:
K1-2 Armhole Seam Allowance - Press to Sleeve Insideof Front Inside of Sleeve Shoulder Seam- PresstowardBack Insideof Back Press toward sleeveall around. SideSeam- PresstowardBack
Seam Details
3/16 seam allowance
4-Thread Overedge
Press toward sleeve unless noted in Spec Pkg.
See Spec pkg. for Panel seam requirement
Lockstitch Raw Edge A1-0a Lockstitch; Raw Edge - (press to one side) Lockstitch
Raw Edge Finished w/ Overedge Topside Underside ST-504 3-Thread Overedge Seam Details seam allowance Lockstitch Press toward back
Seams: Collar Edge Front Edge Cuff Edge Pocket Seams
Use to finish raw edge. Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 7 November 2009 EDGE FINISHES: Binding Full Clean Finish; set w/ Chainstitch Folded Edge A6-1 Full Clean Finish w/Edgestitch
Binding Half Clean Finish set w/ Coverstitch Raw Edge Folded Edge A6-2 Half Clean Finish w/Edgestitch
Elastic Encased in Trim set w/ Chainstitch or Coverstitch K1-8 Set-In Trim w/ Elastic Encased Elastic encased in Trim * See Spec Pkg for Trim Type.
Clean Finish Edge w/ Lining Full Double Bendback A9-1 Clean Finish Edge w/ Lining Outside of Garment Inside of Garment Backstitch Lining Edge finished with Lining A9-2 Full Double Bendback Edge Finish Outside of Garment Inside of Garment Double Bendback Piped Edge Binding Facing Single Bendback A9-3 Piped Edge w/ or w/o Filler Outside of Garment Inside of Garment Backstitch Edge finished w/ Facing OR Lining Piping w/ or w/o Filler Note: No Backstitch if edgeis Topstitched A9-4 Binding Facing Outside View Inside Finished View Set Binding w/ Topstitch A9-5 Single Bendback Edge Finish Outside of Garment Inside of Garment Single Bendback Overedge Finish
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 8 November 2009 DARTS:
A2-1b Blouse Waist Dart - Single Point (Front / Back) Press Dart toward Center Frt
A2-2b Dress / Blouse Waist Dart - Double Points (Front / Back) Press Dart toward Center Frt A2-0d Dart Seam w/ Chainstitch Double Point 1/2" Tail Chainstitch 1/2" Tail A2-1c Bodice Waist Dart - Single Point (Front / Back) Press Dart toward Center Frt
A2-3b Bodice Bust Dart - from Side / Panel seam Press Dart toward Hem
A2-3c Bodice Bust Dart - from Empire Seam Press Dart toward Center Frt
A2-4 French Dart Press Dart toward Hem
Back Tack 1/2" Tail A2-0a Dart Seam w/ Lockstitch Single Point *Follow Dart Guide on pattern
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 9 November 2009 NECK FINISHES:
Neck Finished w/ Binding K3-1a Neck Finished w/ Binding * Binding Set w/ Chainstitch * See Spec Pkg for "Binding Type" Back Neck * Closing Seam- Left Shoulder * Stitchtack seamallowance towardback K3-1b Neck Finished w/ Binding Outside of Garment Wearer's Left Front BindingSet w/ Chainstitch
Set-In Neck Trim Left Back Join Seam K3-2a Set-in Neck Trim w/ Left Back Join Seam * Topstitch w/ Chainstitch unless otherwisein Spec Pkg.
* TrimJoinseam 3/4" back from Wearer'sLeft Shoulder seam Back K3-2b Set-in Neck Trim w/ Left Back Join Seam Inside of Garment Seam: 4-Thread Overedge (Unless otherwise per Spec Pkg) K3-2c Set-in Neck Trim - Back Join Seam Detail Fold to one side Fold to side (opposite from other end) Raw Edge Raw Edge K3-2d Set-in Neck Trim - Back Join Seam Detail Imaginary Fold Line
Set-In Neck Trim Center Back Join Seam K3-3a Set-in Neck Trim w/ Center Back Join Seam * Topstitch w/ Chainstitch unless otherwisein Spec Pkg.
* TrimJ oinseam at Center Back Neck Back K3-3b Set-in Neck Trim w/ Center Back Join Seam
K3-3c Set-in Neck Trim - Center Back Join Seam Detail Seam: 4-Thread Overedge (Unless otherwise per Spec Pkg) Inside of Garment
Fold to oneside Fold to side (oppositefromother end) Raw Edge Raw Edge K3-3d Set-in Neck Trim - Center Back Join Seam Detail
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 10 November 2009 NECK FINISHES (continued):
Set-In Trim / Border with Facing Backstitch K3-4a Set-In Trim / Border w/ Facing Topstitch: Chainstitch (unlessotherwiseper SpecPkg) Insideof Garment Shoulder Seam Front Back Neck Edge K3-4b Set-In Trim / Border w/ Facing Seam: 4-ThreadOveredge (unlessotherwiseper Spec Pkg)
V Neck with Set-In Trim Mitered Center Front Outsideof Garment * MiteredSeamat Center Front "V" * Topstitch: Chainstitch (unlessotherwiseper Spec Pkg) K3-5a "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim - Mitered Center Front
K3-5b "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim - Mitered Center Front Topstitch: Chainstitch (Unless otherwise per Spec Pkg) Outside of Garment * Mitered Seam at Center Front "V" K3-5c "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim - Mitered Center Front Inside of Garment Seam: 4-Thread Overedge (Unless otherwise per Spec Pkg) * Mitered Seamat Center Front "V"
V Neck with Set-In Trim Stitch-Tack at Center Front Outsideof Garment * Stitch-tack at Center Front "V" * Topstitch: Chainstitch (unlessotherwiseper Spec Pkg) K3-6a "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim - Stitch-tack at Center Front
Outside of Garment K3-6b "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim - Stitch-tack at Center Front Topstitch: Chainstitch (Unless otherwise per Spec Pkg) * Stitch-tack at Center Front "V" Inside of Garment Seam: 4-Thread Overedge (Unless otherwise per Spec Pkg) K3-6c "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim - Stitch-tack at Center Front * Stitch-tack at Center Front "V"
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 11 November 2009 NECK FINISHES (continued):
Low V Neck Trim Overlapped at Center Front K3-7a Low V-Neck w/Trim - Overlapped at Center Front Outsideof Garment * Overlap at Center Front * Topstitch: Chainstitch (unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
* Overlap at Center Front * Topstitch: Chainstitch (unless otherwise per Spec Pkg) Outsideof Garment K3-7b Low V-Neck w/Trim - Overlapped at Center Front
K3-7c Low V-Neck w/Trim - Overlapped at Center Front Inside of Garment * Overlap at Center Front * Seam: 4-Thread Overedge (unless otherwiseper Spec Pkg)
High V Neck Trim Overlapped at Center Front Outsideof Garment * Overlap at Center Front * Topstitch: Chainstitch (unless otherwise per Spec Pkg) K3-7d High V-Neck w/ Trim - Overlapped at Center Front
Outside of Garment * Overlap at Center Front * Topstitch: Chainstitch (unless otherwise per Spec Pkg) K3-7e High V-Neck w/ Trim - Overlapped at Center Front
Inside of Garment * Overlap at Center Front * Seam: 4-Thread Overedge (unless otherwise per Spec Pkg) K3-7f High V-Neck w/ Trim - Overlapped at Center Front
V Neck with Set-In Trim & Elasticized Center Front Outsideof Garment * Stitch-tack at Center Front "V" * Topstitch: Chainstitch (unlessotherwiseper SpecPkg) K3-8a "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim - Elasticized Shirring at Center Front Elasticized Shirring
Topstitch: Chainstitch (Unlessotherwiseper Spec Pkg) * Stitch-tack at Center Front "V" Outsideof Garment K3-8b "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim - Elasticized Shirring at Center Front
Insideof Garment ElasticTape Note: DistributeShirringevenly * Stitch-tack at Center Front "V" Seam: 4-ThreadOveredge (Unlessotherwiseper SpecPkg) K3-8c "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim - Elasticized Shirring at Center Front
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 12 November 2009 NECK FINISHES (continued):
Keyhole at CF w/ Drawstring through Casing Keyhole at CF w/ Binding Trim & Tie K3-11 Keyhole at CF Neck w/ Drawstring through Casing 3-Thread Overedge Lockstitch to form Casing * Drawstring in Casing * See Spec Pkg for Drawstring quality
K3-12 Keyhole at CF Neck w/ Binding Self Fabric Binding w/ Edgestitch Tie continuous frombinding Binding Trim w/Edgestitch
Lace Neck Trim Appliqud to Shell K3-13a Lace Trim at Neck Lace Trim Edgestitch Outside View Stitch through along shell finished neck edge K3-13b Lace Trim at Neck Inside View Inside of Lace Trim Edgestitch along Lace Trim Edge Edgestitch Miter at Center Front Stitch through along shell neckline finished edge. Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 13 November 2009
Notch Collar with Facing Outside of Garment K3-9a Notch Collar with Facing Clean Finish at Back Neck * Backstitch if no Topstitching. See Spec Pkg. Facing w/ Overedge Finish K3-9b Notch Collar with Facing Inside of Garment * Facing shaped to Shoulder * Tack at Shoulder * Backstitch if no Topstitching. See Spec Pkg.
Notch Collar with Partial Placket & Facing K3-10a Notch Collar - Partial Placket * Backstitch if no Topstitching. See Spec Pkg. Outside of Garment Clean Finish at Back Neck Facing w/ Overedge Finish Inside of Garment * Backstitch if no Topstitching. See Spec Pkg. * Facing shaped to Shoulder * Tack at Shoulder K3-10b Notch Collar - Partial Placket
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 14 November 2009 COLLAR OPTIONS:
NOTE: Collar sketches are for construction only, not for Collar shape.
2-Piece Collar K3-14a 2-Piece Convertible Collar - No Topstitch Top Collar Under Collar Backstitch Under Collar Top Collar Topstitch (SeeSpec Pkg) * Seespec pkg for Topstitch Detail K3-14b 2-Piece Convertible Collar - with Topstitch
Shirt Collar w/ Full Stand Edgestitch @ Stand Seam DT2-2a Shirt Collar w/ Full Stand - No Topstitch Top Collar Clean Finish @ Neck Under Collar Backstitch * See spec pkg for Topstitch Detail Under Collar Top Collar Edgestitch @ Stand Seam DT2-2b Shirt Collar w/ Full Stand - Topstitched
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 15 November 2009 COLLAR OPTIONS (continued):
NOTE: Collar sketches are for construction only, not for Collar shape.
Stand Collar DT2-3a Stand Collar - No Topstitch Outside of Collar Inside of Collar Neck seam Neck seam Backstitch See Spec Pkg for Topstitch Detail Inside of Collar Neck seam Neck seam DT2-3b Stand Collar - Topstitched Outside of Collar
Collar w/ Banana Stand Back Stitch to 1" fromCollar Point Outside of Top Collar Outside of Under Collar DT2-5a Collar w/ Banana Stand - No Topstitch Open Press w/ Edgestitch Outside of Top Collar Outside of Under Collar DT2-5b Collar w/ Banana Stand - Topstitched * SeeSpec Pkg for Topstitch Detail Open Press w/ Edgestitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 16 November 2009 FRONT PLACKET CLOSURES:
InsideView Weaerer'sRight OutsideView Wearer'sLeft Interlining OutsideView Wearer'sRight Wearer'sRight Wearer'sLeft A8-1 Top Applied Placket Bottomof Placket A8-2a 1-Piece Attached Placket Outside View (sameconstructionfor Right & Left Front Edge) Inside View (sameconstructionfor Right & Left Front Edge) InsideView (sameconstruction for Right & Left Front Edge) OutsideView (sameconstruction for Right & Left Front Edge) A8-2b Attached Placket w/Shaped Front Facing *J oin Seam w/Crackstitch or Topstitch (seeSpec Pkg) *Backstitch (NOTE: No Backstitch if Placket Edgeis Topstitched) SeeSpec Pkg for Facing EdgeFinish
A8-3 Mock Placket Outside View Wearer's Right Inside View Wearer's Right Raw Edge Enclosed in Fold A8-4a 1-Piece Straight Partial Placket InsideView Wearer'sRight SeeSpec Pkgfor: * Placket Length * Button/Buttonholes * Bottomof Placket Detail OutsideView Wearer'sRight OutsideView Wearer'sLeft
InsideView (sameRight & Left) OutsideView (sameRight & Left) *J oin Seam w/Crackstitch or Topstitch (seeSpec Pkg) *Backstitch (Note: No Backstitch if Placket edge is Topstitched) A8-4b Partial Placket w/ Shaped Facing
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 17 November 2009 FRONT PLACKET CLOSURES (continued):
A8-8 Hidden Placket-Attached; set w/ Crackstitch Finished Outside View Wearer's Right Finished Wearer's Right Facing Facing Button Separator / Inner Tack Attached Placket Seam w/ Crackstitch Lining Inside View - Crackstitch *Note: Placket may be topstitched, see spec pkg. Outer Finished View Wearer's Right Facing Button Separator/ Inner Tack between Buttonholes Lining or Fabric layer Attach Inner Layers (see Spec Pkg): A) Attached Button Separator or B) Interior tack (Note: Machine or Hand Tacked) Interior Tack A8-8 Hidden Placket-Attached; Crackstitch Interior Construction (before Facing set to Front) Wearer's Right Front
A8-6 Hidden Placket w/ Facing; Topstitched Finished Wearer's Right Finished Wearer's Right Facing Facing Topstitch Button Separator Inner Tack Outer Finished View A8-10 Hidden Partial Placket OutsideView Wearer's Right InsideView Wearer's Right SeeSpec Pkg for Detail Raw Edge OutsideView Wearer's Left Continuous Fold
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 18 November 2009 KEYHOLE CLOSURES:
Keyhole Lined to Edge Keyhole w/ Continuous Lapped Placket DT6-a Key Hole Closure - Lined to Edge Backstitch Lined to Edge DT6-b Key Hole Closure Mitered Stitch-tack Continuous Lapped Placket *See Spec Pkg for Neck Closure Full Clean Finish Binding over raw edge Center Back Seam
Keyhole Clean Finish w/ Facing DT6-c Key Hole Closure - Clean Finish w/ Facing Backstitch Facing Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 19 November 2009 FACING OPTIONS:
Attached Facings OutsideView "Wearer's Right" Front Backstitch InsideView "Wearer's Right" Front Facing Facing Shaped to Shoulder K5-1a Attached Facing; Shaped Facing w/ Overedge Finish 3-Thread overedge finish OutsideView "Wearer's Right" Front Backstitch InsideView "Wearer's Right" Front Facing Facing Shaped to Shoulder K5-1b Attached Facing; Shaped Facing w/ Bendback Edge 3-Thread overedge finish Bendback w/ Edgestitch
Backstitch Facing Edge Straight to Neck K5-1c Attached Facing - Straight Facing w/ Overedge Finish 3-Thread Overedge Finish InsideView "Wearer's Right" Front Facing OutsideView "Wearer's Right" Front Backstitch Facing Edge Straight to Neck K5-1d Attached Facing - Straight Facing w/ Bendback Edge 3-Thread Overedge Finish InsideView "Wearer's Right" Front Facing OutsideView "Wearer's Right" Front Bendback w/ Edgestitch Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 20 November 2009 FACING OPTIONS (continued):
Bendback Facings OutsideView "Wearer's Right" Front InsideView "Wearer's Right" Front Facing Facing Shaped to Shoulder K5-3a Single Bendback - Shaped Facing w/ Overedge Finish 3-Thread Overedge Finish Bendback Edge OutsideView "Wearer's Right" Front InsideView "Wearer's Right" Front Facing Facing Shaped to Shoulder K5-3b Single Bendback - Shaped Facing w/ Bendback Finish 3-Thread Overedge Finish Bendback Edge Bendback w/ Edgestitch
Facing Edge Straight to Neck K5-3c Single Bendback - Straight Facing w/ Overedge Finish OutsideView "Wearer's Right" Front InsideView "Wearer's Right" Front Facing 3-Thread Overedge Finish Bendback Edge Facing Edge Straight to Neck K5-3d Single Bendback - Straight Facing w/ Bendback Finish OutsideView "Wearer's Right" Front InsideView "Wearer's Right" Front Facing 3-Thread Overedge Finish Bendback Edge Bendback w/ Edgestitch Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 21 November 2009 FACING OPTIONS (continued):
Combination Facing Set-In Trim K5-4 Combination/ Facing Inside of Front Facing Backstitch Lingerie Loop if Sleeveless - See Spec Pkg NOTE: w/ or w/o Sleeves; w/ or w/o Topstitch See Spec Pkg for Facing Edge Finish Backstitch for Sleeveless
Outside View K5-5 Set-In Trim Inside View Seam: 4-Thread Overedge stitch * See Spec Pkg for Topstitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 22 November 2009 HEM FINISH OPTIONS:
K4-1 Bendback w/1/8" 2-Needle Bottom Coverstitch Raw edge 1/16 - 1/8" beyond Coverstitch Outside of Garment Inside of Garment K4-2 Bendback w/ 1/4" 2-Needle Bottom Coverstitch Raw edge 1/16 - 1/8" beyond Coverstitch Inside of Garment Outside of Garment K4-3 Bendback w/Overedge; Topstitched Outside Garment Inside Garment Overedge Topstitch K4-4 Baby Roll w/ Edgestitch Outside Garment Inside Garment Baby Roll Edgestitched
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 23 November 2009 SLIT OPTIONS Clean Finish at Seam; Blindstitched A14-3a Slit-Clean Finish w/Single Bendback Hem & Blindstitched - No Tack Overedge S e a m Seam- Clean Finish Inside Garment Outside Garment Seam Blind Stitch Outside Garment A14-3b Slit-Clean Finish w/Single Bendback Hem & Blindstitched; Stitch-tack at Top of Slit Seam Overedge Seam- Clean Finish Blind Stitch S e a m Inside Garment Stitch-tack Stitch-tack Outside Garment A14-3c Slit-Clean Finish w/Single Bendback Hem & Blindstitched - Bartack at Top of Slit Seam Overedge Seam- Clean Finish Blind Stitch S e a m Inside Garment Bartack Bartack
Full Bendback w/Topstitch A14-4a Slit-Full Bendback Edge Finish w/ Topstitched - No Tack S e a m Top Stitch Full Bend Back S e a m *See spec pkg for HemStitch Inside Garment Outside Garment A14-4b Slit-Full Bendback Edge Finish w/ Topstitched; Stitch-tack at Top of Slit Top Stitch *See spec pkg for HemStitch Outside Garment S e a m S e a m Inside Garment Full Bend Back Stitch-tack Stitch-tack A14-4c Slit-Full Bendback Edge Finish w/ Topstitched - Bartack at Top of Slit Top Stitch *See spec pkg for HemStitch Outside Garment S e a m Inside Garment Full Bend Back Bartack Bartack Seam
Bendback & Topstitched A14-5a Slit - Topstitched - No Tack S e a m S e a m Top Stitch Overedge *See spec pkg for HemStitch Outside Garment Inside Garment
Outside Garment A14-5b Slit - Topstitched; Stitch-tack at Top of Slit Overedge Inside Garment *See spec pkg for HemStitch S e a m Top Stitch S e a m Stitch-tack Stitch-tack *See spec pkg for HemStitch Outside Garment A14-5c Slit - Topstitched - Bartack at Top of Slit Overedge S e a m Top Stitch Inside Garment S e a m Bartack Bartack
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 24 November 2009 SLIT OPTIONS (continued):
Bendback Facing w/ Mitered Corner - Blindstitched
A14-8a Slit-Bendback Facing w/ Mitered Corner; Blindstitched - No Tack S e a m Overedge Mitered Corner Inside Garment Outside Garment Blind Stitch
Mitered Corner Outside Garment A14-8b Slit-Bendback Facing w/ Mitered Corner; Blindstitched ; Stitch-tack at Top of Slit Overedge Blind Stitch S e a m Inside Garment Stitch-tack Stitch-tack
Mitered Corner Outside Garment A14-8c Slit-Bendback Facing w/ Mitered Corner; Blindstitched - Bartack at Top of Slit Overedge Blind Stitch S e a m Inside Garment Bartack Bartack
Bendback Facing w/ Mitered Corner - Topstitched
A14-9a Slit-Bendback Facing w/Mitered Corner; Topstitched - No Tack S e a m Overedge Top Stitch Mitered Corner Inside Garment Outside Garment Seam
Mitered Corner Top Stitch Overedge S e a m Outside Garment A14-9a Slit-Bendback Facing w/Mitered Corner; Topstitched - No Tack Inside Garment Seam Stitch-tack Stitch-tack
Mitered Corner Top Stitch Overedge S e a m Outside Garment A14-9c Slit-Bendback Facing w/Mitered Corner; Topstitched - Bartack at Top of Slit Inside Garment Seam Bartack Bartack
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 25 November 2009 SLIT OPTIONS (continued):
Attached Facing w/ Overedge Finish - Blindstitched A14-11a Slit-Attached Facing w/Overedge & Blindstitched - No Tack Inside Garment Outside Garment S e a m Seam Overedge Blind Stitch Backstitch Attached Facing Overedge Attached Facing Backstitch A14-11b Slit-Attached Facing w/Overedge & Blindstitched - Stitch-tack Outside Garment S e a m Blind Stitch Seam Inside Garment Stitch-tack Stitch-tack A14-11c Slit-Attached Facing w/Overedge & Blindstitched - Bartack at Top of Slit Overedge Attached Facing Backstitch Outside Garment S e a m Blind Stitch Seam Inside Garment Bartack Bartack
Attached Facing with Overedge Finish - Topstitched A14-14a Slit-Attached Facing w/ Overedge & Topstitched - No Tack S e a m Top Stitch Blind Stitch Attached Facing Outside Garment Inside Garment Seam Overedge Backstitch Overedge Attached Facing Backstitch A14-14b Slit-Attached Facing w/ Overedge & Topstitched; Stitch-tack at Top of Slit S e a m Outside Garment Inside Garment Blind Stitch Top Stitch Seam Stitch-tack Stitch-tack Stitch-tack Overedge Attached Facing Backstitch A14-14c Slit-Attached Facing w/ Overedge & Topstitched - Bartack at Top of Slit S e a m Outside Garment Inside Garment Blind Stitch Top Stitch Seam Bartack Bartack
Outside Garment A14-16 Slit - Clean Finish w/Single Bendback Hem Overedge S e a m Inside Garment Singlebendback * 4-Thread Overedge seamstitch * Closed seamto 1" above slit * Open press at top of Slit Clean Finish w/ seam * Singlebendback hem beforefinishing Slit A14-17 Slit w/ Single Bendback & Topstitch Outside Garment * 4-Thread Overedgeseamstitch * Closed seamto 1" aboveslit * Open press at top of Slit Overedge Inside Garment * SeeSpec Pkg for Topstitch details S e a m Topstitch Single bendback
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 26 November 2009 WELT & BESOM POCKETS
Angled Welt Pocket Horizontal Welt Pocket Outside of Garment Inside of Garment Basteclosed w/ 1/2" open at each end K6-1a Welt Pocket- Angled w/ Topstitch K6-1b Welt Pocket - Horizontal w/ Topstitch Outside of Garment Inside of Garment w/o Facing Basteclosed w/ 1/2" open at each end
Angled Besom Pocket Horizontal Besom Pocket Outside of Garment Basteclosed w/ 1/2" open at each end Inside of Garment w/o Facing K6-2a Besom Pocket - Angled w/ Topstitch Outside of Garment Inside of Garment w/o Facing Basteclosed w/ 1/2" open at each end K6-2bBesom Pocket - Horizontal w/ Topstitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 27 November 2009 VERTICAL / ANGLED WELT OR BESOM POCKET:
Attachto Frt Facing Frt Edgew/ LiningStrip Insideof Garment - Tack Option 1 StitchTack Closedw/ 1/2" Open at eachends J6-2 Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled F r o n t
E d g e StitchTack under Facing Insideof Garment - Tack Option 2 J6-2 Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled StitchTack Closedw/ 1/2" Open at eachends F r o n t
E d g e w/o Bartack J6-2a Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; No Topstitch; w/o Bartack Outside of Garment F r o n t
E d g e
J6-2a Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; No Topstitch, w/Bartack Outside of Garment w/ Bartack F r o n t
E d g e w/o Bartack Outsideof Garment J6-2b Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; w/ Topstitch; no Bartack F r o n t
E d g e J6-2b Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; w/ Topstitch & Bartack Outside of Garment w/ Bartack F r o n t
E d g e
Outside of Garment J6-4a Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; No Topstitch; w/o Bartack w/o Bartack F r o n t
E d g e
F r o n t
E d g e J6-4a Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; No Topstitch; w/Bartack Outside of Garment w/o Bartack Outside of Garment J6-4b Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; w/ Topstitch; no Bartack F r o n t
E d g e w/ Bartack F r o n t
E d g e J6-4b Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; w/ Topstitch & Bartack Outside of Garment
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 28 November 2009 WELT & BESOM POCKETS W/ FLAP:
Outsideof Garment FlapSet aboveWelt Edge K7-1a Angled Welt Pocket w/ Flap (Topstitch at outer edge) Raw Edge Enclosed Under Flap * SeeSpec Pkg for Topstitch Detail
FlapSet aboveWelt Edge K7-1b Horizontal Welt Pocket w/ Flap (Topstitch at outer edge) Outsideof Garment Under Flap Raw Edge Enclosed * SeeSpec Pkgfor Topstitch Detail K7-2a Angled Besom Pocket w/ Flap (Topstitch at outer edge) Under Flap Outsideof Garment Flap set into Welt seam * SeeSpec Pkg for Topstitch Detail Outsideof Garment K7-3b Horizontal Besom Pocket w/ Flap (Topstitch at outer edge) Flapset into Welt seam Under Flap * SeeSpec Pkgfor Topstitch Detail
PATCH POCKETS:
Single Bendback OveredgeFinish- * Seespec pkg Topstitch to set Pocket J6-7a Patch Pocket - Bendback Facing Topstitched Setting Bendback Facing * SeeSpec Pkg. for Facing Finish
* SeeSpec Pkg. for Facing Finish Topstitch to set Pocket J6-7b Patch Pocket - Attached Facing Topstitched Setting Single Bendback OveredgeFinish - * Seespec pkg * 1" Attached Facing * Backstitch or Topstitched. SeeSpec Pkg J7-4a Flap-Patch Pocket- Topstitch w/ Stitch-tack Raw Edge Enclosed Stitch Tack Under Flap: Bias Raw Edge Enclosed J7-4b Flap-Patch Pocket- Topstitch w/ Bartack Under Flap: Bias Bartack Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 29 November 2009 VERTICAL ONSEAM POCKET: J6-5a Vertical "Onseam" Pocket with Bendback / Extended Facing P o c k e t
o p e n i n g Outsideof Garment TopPocket Bag Opening Bendback (seeSpec Pkg for Facing width) Edgestitch Opening Top Pocket Bag w/ Bendback Facing Under Pocket Bag Under Pocket Bag w/ Extension Opening Attached Facing w/ Backstitch or Topstitch (seeSpec Pkg for Facing width) Opening Top Pocket Bag w/ Attached Facing Edgestitch TopPocket Bag J6-5b Vertical "Onseam" Pocket w/ Attached Facings Outsideof Garment P o c k e t
o p e n i n g Top Pocket Bag w/ Attached Facing J6-5c Vertical "Onseam" Pocket with No Facing; Attached Pocket Bag P o c k e t
o p e n i n g Outsideof Garment TopPocketBag Opening Attached Pocket Bag w/ Backstitch Opening Top Pocket Bag w/ Bendback Facing Under Pocket Bag Under Pocket Bag w/ Extension Attached Pocket Bag w/ Backstitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 30 November 2009 PLEATS: Inverted Pleat A3-1 Inverted Pleat Edgestitch to Control Pleat InsideView Outside View Box Pleat A3-2 Box Pleat Outside View Inverted Pleat / Box Pleat Tacked for Shipping: A3-5 Inverted Pleat "X" Tack for Shipping Pintuck A3-4 Pintuck Knife / Single Side Pleat A3-3 Knife Pleat / Single Side Pleat A3-3 Knife Pleat / Single Side Pleat
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 31 November 2009 TOPSTITCH OPTIONS - CUT & SEW KNITS:
Single Chainstitch 2-Needle Bottom Coverstitch Topside Underside ST-401 Single Needle Chainstitch Underside ST-406 2-Needle Bottom Coverstitch Topside *SeeSpec Pkg for NeedleSpacing
Split Needle w/ 2-Needle Bottom Coverstitch Underside of Stitch K1-3a Split Needle Topstitch w/ 2-Needle Bottom Coverstitch ; 1/4" Spacing Topside of Stitch Seamcentered between stitch lines
Top & Bottom Coverstitch Options ST-602 2-Needle Top & Bottom Coverstitch; 4-Thread Topside Underside
ST-605 3-Needle Top & Bottom Coverstitch; 5-Thread Underside Topside
ST-607 4-Needle Top & Bottom Coverstitch; 6 Thread Underside Topside Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 32 November 2009 DRAWSTRING CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS:
Top Hem Casing Options: K4-8a Drawstring at Waist Attached Casing - Narrow Drawstring (See Spec Pkg) Opening; Eyelet, Buttonhole, or Open at End *SeeSpec Pkg K4-8b Drawstring at Waist Attached Casing - Wide no casing stitch Drawstring (SeeSpec Pkg) Opening; Eyelet, Buttonhole, or Open at End *See Spec Pkg K4-8c Drawstring at Waist Attached Casing - Wide w/ Casing Stitch Drawstring (SeeSpec Pkg) Opening; Eyelet, Buttonhole, or Open at End *See Spec Pkg Casing Stitch
Attached Waist Casing Options: K4-9a Drawstring at Waist Attached Casing - Narrow Drawstring (See Spec Pkg) Opening; Eyelet or Buttonhole *See Spec Pkg * Seam: 4-Thread Overedge * Press seamallowance toward body * Topstitch (See Spec Pkg.) K4-9b Drawstring at Waist Drawstring (See Spec Pkg) Opening; Eyelet or Buttonhole *See Spec Pkg * Seam: 4-Thread Overedge * Press seamallowance toward Waistband * Topstitch (SeeSpec Pkg.) Wide Attached Casing w/o Waistband Casing stitch
K4-9c Drawstring at Waist Drawstring (See Spec Pkg) Opening; Eyelet or Buttonhole *See Spec Pkg Casing Stitch * Seam: 4-Thread Overedge * Press seamallowance toward Waistband * Topstitch (See Spec Pkg.) Wide Attached Casing - w/ Waistband casing stitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 33 November 2009 DRAWSTRING CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS (continued):
Waist Facing / Casing K4-9d Drawstring at Waist - Attached Facing w/Casing stitch Drawstring (See Spec Pkg) Opening; Eyelet or Buttonhole *See Spec Pkg * Casing Topstitch (See Spec Pkg) Outside View * Casing Topstitch (See Spec Pkg) Inside View Backstitch WAIST FACING Facing: 1-piece w/ seam at wearer's left side.
Waist Facing / Casing with Back Elastic
K4-9e Drawstring at Waist - Attached Facing w/Casing stitch and Back Tunneled Elastic Facing: 1-piecew/ seam at wearer's left side. FRONT Outside View * Casing Topstitch (SeeSpec Pkg) Opening; Eyelet or Buttonhole *SeeSpec Pkg Drawstring (SeeSpec Pkg) WAIST FACING * Casing Topstitch (SeeSpec Pkg) FRONT Inside View Backstitch Elastic tunneled in Back Facing / Casing * Casing Topstitch (SeeSpec Pkg) BACK Outside View * Casing Topstitch (See Spec Pkg) BACK Inside View Waist Facing: 1-piecew/ seamat wearer's left side. Backstitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 34 November 2009 ZIPPER CLOSURES CLOSED BOTTOM: *Waistband/ Waist Finish per SpecPkg A4-1a Lapped Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom
Invisible Zipper: Sealed at bottom Length: 1 1/2 longer than Opening Order to length do not cut to length. *Waistband/ Waist Finish per Spec Pkg A4-4a Invisible Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom
A4-b Invisible Zipper setting w/ Waistband Inside of Waistband * Clip seamallowance at 1" fromopening edge. * Open press Waistband seamallowance1". Press seamallowancetoward Waistband w/ Zipper to top edge
A4-4a Invisible Zipper - Open Seam Inner Construction; UNLINED Sealed End * Stitch Zipper Tape tail to one seamallowance *BIAS Skirts: Do not stitch Zipper Tail to seamallowance. Inside of Garment Zipper Tail 1 to 1 1/2" longer than Zipper Opening * Stitch Zipper Tape tail to oneseamallowance *BIAS Skirts: Do not stitch Zipper Tail to seamallowance. A4-4a Invisible Zipper - Closed Seam Inner Construction; UNLINED Sealed End * Safety Stitch seam from2 1/2" below Zipper Tail * Press to Back or Wearer's Left Back Open Press for Zipper Setting Lockstitch Zipper Tail 1" to 1 1/2" longer than Zipper Opening
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 35 November 2009 FLY CLOSURES:
Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, with Waistband:
NOTE: Sketch for Fly Construction only.
See Spec Package for: Inside Waist Finish Outside Closure
Zipper Placement: Top: maximum down from seam. Bottom: maximum up from Fly stitch.
F l y
S e a m Backstitch or Edgestitch (per Spec Pkg) 1 1/4" Insidetop edge: 1/8" below outsidetop edge B4-10a Shape Fly Extension w/ Waistband - 2 1/2" Imaginary Fly seamline 2 1/2" Insideof Garment Standard Measurements * ReinforceFly Opening w/ Stitch-tack or Bartack * Upper tack to bemaximum 1/8" aboveZipper Head (w/ zipper fully open) B4-1 Shaped Fly Extension w/Waistband; Lined & Unlined * NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closureper Spec Pkg Insideof Garment Raw edge Zipper Teeth set 3/8" fromFront Edge Edgestitch Outside of Garment Wearer's Left Clean Finish Backstitch or Edgestitch * SeeSpec Pkg
Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, without Waistband
NOTE: Sketch for Fly Construction only.
See Spec Package for: Inside Waist Finish Outside Closure
Zipper Placement: Top: maximum down from seam. Bottom: maximum up from Fly stitch.
Insidetop edge: B4-10b Shaped Fly Extension w/o Waistband Facing Insideof Garment Backstitch or Edgestitch * SeeSpec Pkg Wearer's Left 1 1/4" 2 1/2" F l y
S e a m Standard Measurments 1/8" below outsidetop edge Outsideof Garment Insideof Garment B4-2 Shaped Fly Extension w/Facing; Lined & Unlined * NOTE: Waist Facing Finish per Spec Pkg Clean Finish Edgestitch Zipper Teeth set 3/8" fromFront Edge Wearer's Left Backstitch or Edgestitch * SeeSpec Pkg * ReinforceFly Opening w/ Stitch-tack or Bartack * Upper tack to bemaximum 1/8" aboveZipper Head (w/ zipper fully open) ButtonholeType per Standard w/ Button Closure Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 36 November 2009 FLY CLOSURES (continued):
See Spec Package for: Finish at bottom of Fly Extension Inside Waist Finish Inside / Outside Waistband Extension Outside Closure
Zipper Placement: Top: maximum down from seam. Bottom: maximum up from Fly stitch.
1 1/2" Wide, Top to Bottom B4-11a Straight Fly Extension Width w/ Waist Band F l y
S e a m B4-5a 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish at bottom Inside Waistband Extension w/ Straight End * NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closureper Spec Pkg Outsideof Garment Insideof Garment Zipper Teethset 3/8" fromFront Edge Edgestitch CleanFinish Fold * ReinforceFly Opening w/Stitch-tack or Bartack * Upper tack to bemaximum 1/8" aboveZipper Head (w/ zipper fully open) 11/2" Inside Extension CleanFinish
B4-5b 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish bottom Inside Waistband Extension w/Pointed End * NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closureper Spec Pkg Zipper Teethset 3/8" fromFront Edge CleanFinish Edgestitch Fold Outsideof Garment Insideof Garment 1" Extension tocorner 3/4" Point * ReinforceFly Opening w/Stitch-tack or Bartack * Upper tack to bemaximum 1/8" aboveZipper Head (w/ zipper fully open) CleanFinish Outside of Garment Inside of Garment Fold * NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closureper spec pkg B4-5c 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish at bottom No Inside Extension * ReinforceFly Opening w/Stitch-tack or Bartack * Upper tack to bemaximum 1/8" aboveZipper Head (w/ zipper fully open) * SeeSpec Pkgfor WaistbandExtension (spec, straight vspointedend) CleanFinish Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 37 November 2009 ZIPPER CLOSURES SEPARATING ZIPPER:
A4-1b Lapped Zipper Setting - Open Bottom See Spec Pkg for Zipper Finish A4-2b Kissing Zipper Setting - Open Bottom See Spec Pkg for Zipper Finish A4-3b Exposed Zipper Setting - Open Bottom See Spec Pkg for Zipper Finish Open End A4-4b Invisible Zipper Setting - Open Bottom * See Spec Pkg for Front Facing
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 38 November 2009 ZIPPER TERMS:
(A) Closed end - Normal type (C) 2 Pulls - 2 Ended Closed (B) 2 - Ended Closed (D) 2 Pulls - 2 Open Ends (D) 1 Pull Open End Common Zipper Types (A) Closed end - Invisible type Sealed End Sealed at Top
TapeEnds Stringer Cord Bead BottomStop Slider Chain Pull Teeth Top Stops Retainer SeparablePin Retainer Pin Opened Tape Closed Basic Zipper Construction Terms
Tape Width Chain Width Length of Fastener Zipper Dimension Terms
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 39 November 2009 ZIPPER WITH BINDING EDGE FINISH:
A4-6a Binding Finish / Kissing Zipper Setting - * Zipper Inside Finish per Spec Pkg * Binding Edge Finish * Applied before Zipper set Closed Bottom * Bend back Binding at Top edge A4-6b Binding Finish / Kissing Zipper Setting - See Spec Pkg for Zipper Finish * Bend back Binding at Bottomedge * Hemfinish per Spec Pkg. * Binding EdgeFinish * Applied before Zipper set Open Bottom
BUTTON SETTING Logo buttons to be set in same direction. Buttons with self-shank do not require Thread Shank. Setting Placement: 2-Hole Button set with 2 holes aligned with Buttonhole. 4-Hole Button with parallel stitch, unless otherwise specified.
w/ Functional Buttonholes K1-9b Button Setting - "X" Stitch * "X" Stitch * Set Button w/ lockstitch machine Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Top Side Under side of Loop A10-8 Folder Button Loop
A10-9 Decorative / Frog Closure
Thread Eyelet A10-6 Thread Eyelet *Refer to spec package for placement
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 42 November 2009 Hook & eye types with inside top of zipper setting: A11-1a Hook & Loop Eye A11-1b Hook & Straight Eye A11-1c Hook & Loop
Hook & Loop Eye Setting inside top edge Hook & Thread Loop Setting inside top edge A11-1 Setting Hook Tack under base of Hook & Loop Eye A11-1 Setting Hook Tack under base of Hook & Thread Loop
Hook & Loop Eye Setting - inside/top of zipper Hook & Thread Loop Setting inside top of zipper A11-1a Setting Hook & Loop Eye Set Zipper w/Zipper Slideedge 1/4" down from finished top edge at Inside Top of Zipper A11-1c Setting Hook & Thread Loop Set Zipper w/Zipper Slide edge 1/4" down from finished top edge at Inside Top of Zipper
Hook & Bar; Hook & Loop Tape: A11-2a Hook & Bar a. Machine Set * Note: Reinforce w/ Self or Interlining
A11-2b Hook & Bar b. Hand Set
A11-3 Hook & Loop Tape Hook Tape Loop Tape Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 43 November 2009 DECORATIVE EMBELLISHMENT SETTING HANDTACKING
Step 1 To form initial knot the thread must passes through self fabric or yarn
Step 2 Circle the needle 2 times, then pull out the needle to form initial knot.
Step 3 Initial knot formed must be tied to the fabric or yarn Tail extending from knot must be trimmed to .
Step 4 Affix the embellishment to the body using same needle from initial knot on self fabric.
Step 5 Affix the embellishment by using 2 plies of thread with 2 passes through the fabric. Do not make the length of the passes more than long.
Step 6 After affixing the embellishment on the face side, pass the needle through to the inside for ending knot finishing in the same manner as step 1 and step 2. MACHINE TACKING 1. If factory has adjusted the normal buttonhole machine into 2 hole stitching for tacking purposes, only lockstitch buttonhole machine can be used for Ann Taylor product. 2. If factory uses single lockstitch machine for tacking purposes appropriate and sufficient back stitches must be applied to secure 3. Bar tacking machine application is limited to heavier fabric. Please advise when using this application to Technical Designer or QA for approval.
BEAD AND SEQUIN CONSTRUCTION HAND TACKING 1. Initial knot must be tied up to fabric or yarn in designated position following design layout 2. At least 2 plies of thread with 2 pass of needle must be passed through the fabric or yarn for each tack point. 3. Ending knot must be added to secure each tacked position. 4. Floating thread in between in between tacking cannot exceed on wrong side of the fabric. Floating thread longer than is not acceptable. 5. For beading spacing longer than or all over beading, beading should be tacked separately to secure beads. Initial Knot Self Fabric Initial Knot Rosette/embellishment Initial Knot Ending Knot Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 44 November 2009 BELT LOOPS: Press w/ Seamcentered A12-1a Tubular-Belt Loop
A12-1b Tubular-Belt Loop Seamat edge.
A12-3 Folder Finish-Belt Loop
Top side Under side A12-2 Coverstitched-Belt Loop
A12-4a Crochet Belt Loop/ Tear Drop (at seam) Seam
A12-4b Crochet Belt Loop / Tear Drop (at edge) A12-4c Crochet Belt Loop/ Tear Drop A12-4d Crochet Belt OpenLoop (set in Seam)
(4) Reverse Bendback (5) Outside Stitch-tack (3) Inside Stitch-tack (2) ReverseBendback (1) Stitch-tack A12-5 Clean Finish Top & Bottom Outside Stitch-tack @ Top (4) Reverse Bendback (5) Inside Stitch-tack (3) Inside Stitch-tack (2) ReverseBendback (1) Stitch-tack A12-6 Clean Finish Top & Bottom Inside Stitch-tack A12-7 Clean Finish @ Bottom; Single Bendback @ Top w/Bartack (4) Bartack (3) Single Bendback (2) ReverseBendback (1) Stitch-tack Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 45 November 2009 SPECIAL CONSTRUCTIONS:
Adjustable Strap Adjustable Strap Extension Attachment K1-4 Adjustable Strap 2" 1/2" Bar Adjuster O-Ring Cami - Back View K1-5 Adjustable Strap Extension Attachment Raw edges are concealed and not visible.
Strap Continuous from Armhole Hanger Loop Inside of Garment Armhole * Press seamallowance toward back * Stitch tack toward back at Armhole trim. * See Spec Pkg for Neckline Shape & Finish * Strap continuous fromArmhole K1-6 Strap Continuous from Armhole Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment (close-up view) K1-7 Hanger Loop at Side Seam SideSeam Press toward Back * Set Hanger Loop 1/2" down from Top Edge. * Stitch to seam allowance. Inside of Garment Hanger Loop: Total Length: 14" finished Width: 1/4" Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 46 November 2009 SPECIAL CONSTRUCTIONS (continued):
Camisole / Strapless w/ Bra Shelf Elastic Tape Lining Back Top Edge K1-5 Cami / Strapless w/ Inside Shelf Bra Front Top Edge Front Top Edge Lining Elastic Tape Backstitch Backstitch
Front Back Lining S i d e
S e a m Elastic K1-5a Knit Strapless w/ Inside Shelf Bra Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 47 November 2009 DECORATIVE STITCHES:
DST-1 Pearl Stitch Inside Garment Pearl Stitch Outside Garment *Overedge stitch w/ 18-26 Stitches per Inch, depending on finish needed. DST-2 Shell Stitch Outside Garment *Overedge stitch to formthread around edge in "Shell" shape. Shell Stitch Inside Garment * Overedge stitch formation at raw edge uniformly stretched to have wavy Lettuce leaf edge. * See spec pkg for stitch width & density. Outside Garment DST-3 Lettuce Edge Stitch Lettuce Edge Surging Stitch Inside Garment DST-4 Picot Stitch Outside Garment * Two thread multi-step Chainstitch formed just off edge. Picot Stitch DST-5 2-Needle Fagoting *Decorative Chainstitch between two finished edges. *See Spec Pkg for Picot Stitch Width. Two Needle Fagoting DTS-6 Pick Stitch *See Spc Pkg for Stitch Length and Spacing. * Stitch Length and Spacing may be even or uneven. Pick Stitch - Stitch through upper ply only.
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Cut & Sew Knits 48 November 2009 DECORATIVE STITCHES (cont.):
DST-7 Saddle Stitch * Stitch Length and Spacing are equal size. * See Spec Pkg for Stitch per Inch (SPI). Saddle Stitch - Stitch through all layers. * Overedge stitch. * See Spec Pkg for specific Stitches per Inch (SPI) and Stitch Width. Outside Garment DST-8 Blanket Stitch Blanket Stitch Inside Garment
Step 2 - Topside Step 2 - Underside Seamat top of tuck Double Needle w/ Narrow Zig-Zag at Underside * closes fold * creates tuck * See Spec Pkg for Tuck Height Seamat top of tuck Step 1- Topside Step 1 - Underside DTS-9 Air Tucking